Should you turn green (wet) wood on your lathe?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 янв 2019
- Learn more about my woodturning book: www.rexkrueger.com/book
More details in the FREE tip sheet: www.rexkrueger.com/articles/2...
Get more video and exclusive content: / rexkrueger
Ever wonder why some turners work with green wood? Wonder why anyone would bother with drying an re-turning a bowl when they can just turn a piece a dry wood and be finished? In this video, I explain all of the advantages and disadvantages to green turning and I do a whole bowl from a green log, start to finish. 
Хобби
Green wood is fun to work with. I try to get free wood and it’s usually green. Dry wood can be plain. I will some times take green wood to its final shape and let form to what to what ever shape it will be. You can end up with a bowl that has some interesting shapes and features. Great advice. I have been turning 3 years and used to avoid green wood. No any more.
That church music just made my day. I now have a little coffee in my lungs, and I might have given my dogs PTSD from all the laughing, coughing & spitting that woke them up. But it was totally worth it.
Glad I could help!
I LOVE THE AMERICAN FLAG ON THE WALL !!!
@@RexKrueger yes that classical music / revelation-style was really funny. greetings from Spain/Holland
I have been turning for about eight years, and just as you described, I fought with dry wood, damaged and broke roughing gouges and basically jarred myself to the point of the craft not being enjoyable. When I experimented with green wood, it seemed to open up an entire new enjoyment of the craft as well as creative designs, just as you mentioned. I now find my most enjoyment and success by roughing the bowl out to 10% wall thickness according to the diameter of the bowl. Then I coat the outside of the bowl with a product that is partially liquid wax and other components to force the drying to happen through the inside of the bowl. I place the bowl in a paper bag from the store with some shavings, then just stack them high in my garage where it is warmer. In about six months, it is warped but not cracked and ready to finish to the final thickness, which will level the warped area and round off the bowl. I do not mind the six month wait because there are frequent enough sever storms around Houston that I can get permission to clear any sized Oak or Pecan tree I am looking for. The difficulty I find is to try keeping the sections of wood from drying too fast and checking severely at each end. So, I coat each end with the wax product while the log is waiting it's turn to be roughed out. Anyhow, this video was a great illustration of that amazing moment when every woodturner finds the joy of turning green wood.
Glad you liked it!
you can also use a simple digital scale to measure the mass of your bowl between microwave runs. When the mass stops changing, you are done drying
Oh yes!.... simple elegant.
Hit tare and it'll give you the difference next go round.
Ahh yes, until you put it in literally any air in the world that contains moisture and it'll crack and deform again
@@Simon-oy7kf Then all the bowls I and hundreds or thousands of other turners who have done this on must exist in a parallel universe where they don't touch any air in the world, since they have no cracks. It's not my idea, it is commonly done. If you microwave a bowl for short bursts with hours of rest time, it is not going to take it to "zero" moisture. The bowl will approach the relative moisture content that is necessary based on the temp and relative humidity of your location to be stable. When you are close, the mass won't change much from one iteration to the next. That being said, I now use a much easier method which is simply leaving it in a sealed bag with orange desiccant beads for 24 hours.
I realised that you have a plaster on your head 5 minutes into the video... it blend in so well.
Drying worked green wood (or just drying wood in general) is a field where the discussions seem to never end.
What I usually do with my bowls is that I take the shavings from the turning and spread them thin so that they dry fast. Put them in a container such as a basket, and when the bowl's done on the lathe, shove it in the shavings and let it sit there for a bunch of days.
What happens is that the shavings draw moisture out of the wood, but limiting the wood's exposure to the even dryer air, so it dries slow, which is one of several ways to prevent the wood from cracking.
Another is to slap some wood glue on the end grain and let that set before drying.
Wow, how long do you leave it for?
@@HarmonicGrunt Depends on the type of wood of course, but a day or two in some cases, a week for some. Just take it out and feel if it's mostly dried, then you probably can dry the rest by having it standing on a bench/desk or similar.
Ok Thanks Man, that helps a lot. Have a Great Weekend My Friend. X
This is how to do a proper video. Straight to the point. Thank you Rex!!
I do try to get right into it. Took me a while to figure that out.
I am not surprised that green wood would turn easier. My great grandfather and grandfather owned a saw mill, the parts were used to build a mill three times during my time. I ran a nice portable diesel powered band-saw mill for a bit. We all know that it cuts harder and wears the blades more when dry ;-) Band saw and chain saw mills run a drip of water on the blade while cutting. The difference in the amount of water needed, for wet or dry wood is obvious. You can practically use no added water dripping with some green wet logs.
Problem of course is everything shrinking and twisting after milling green wood.
Oh, it also is noticeable using a chain saw and a wood splitter. Some wood splitting is easier with dry wood; especially getting large chunks onto the splitter lol
I have heard of using a microwave for drying wood but you are the first one to get specific about how to do it. Ty and keep up the great videos
Got the book. I’m a little over halfway. Definitely worth the purchase. Great insight into green woodturning. I’m going to need to give it a go.
I'm delighted that you like it! I worked very hard on it. Thanks for the compliment!
Since I live in the woods and we burn wood, I have always turned dry wood. (I've only been turning about a year) But a recent storm blew down some big limbs out of a walnut tree so I tried turning some of it. Pretty dramatic difference! Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍
Turn in greenwood that video help me out quite a bit. Where I live I get my hands on quite a bit of greenwood.
Great suggestions. I just cut some oak and elm logs and put them in the garage. Was trying to decide what to do next to season. Sounds like I should start the turnings. This wood was cut in November, 3 months ago.
Great video. Once again explaining things that I've been kinda wondering about. Very awesome teacher.
Thanks! I myself was quite curious about green wood until I just tried it. It's not hard and totally worth it.
Got & read the book last week - Fantastic! I've tried a spindle from a green branch. Definitely going have to try a bowl from a green log. Thanks for the inspiration, Rex!
My pleasure. Also, if you can give the book a quick review on Amazon, that's HUGE for me. Really boosts sales.
@@RexKrueger Already done! There's so much great material in the book, I had to give it a great review!
Rex. Great channel. It's very helpful.
For more than 20 yrs now, I have been immersing green timber blanks in water for approx 3 months prior to re-sawing for whatever project I have going. This seems to leach all the tannins and most of the sap out of the timber and I have very little cracking through the heart even on quite thin rounds of timber. I am located in SE Queensland, Australia and have access to some very hard woods that are not considered commercial due to their tendencies to split. This of course does nothing to stop a piece from twisting or cupping.
Keep your water filled drum well away from the house as it will start to stink after the first couple of days.
I’m relatively new to turning and bowls are a lot of fun, and as mentioned in this video has basically all been done with lumber yard stock. I’m anxious to give wet wood a try.
Im new to turning! Found your video really inspiring! Your presentation style is 1st class. Many thanks
The Cherry bowl is Amazing rex! Thanks for the video . I am new to wood Turning.
Some of my favorite pieces, I’ve completely turned green and then let nature determine the final shape. Especially turning across the pith...makes some interesting warpage. With this, the thinner you make it, the less it cracks. Just make sure you dry it in damp shavings so it dries slowly.
Green turning is really interesting, years ago I saw a video or TV show, I don't know who it was, but they were talking about Green turning decorative goblets. They were super thin, so as they dried they warped beautifully. It was really interesting to see.
I should try that!
When you said "it's 154..." I thought the next word was going to be "dollars", and my brain also managed to think "shit, that's an expensive book!". All this happened in the few milliseconds before you said "pages".
I honestly didn't think my brain worked that fast.
That cherry bowl look so delicate! So cool.
I've never turned wood, but as teenager I hung withsome who own a lath. The thing about turning wood is that you can use wood that's not even good for burning. Dead elms are everywhere. Often by the time it's dead, fungus has wormed it's way around. Turn a chunk Elm, and the fungus adds character to Elm. Black Locust is beautiful, but rarely gets large enough for lumber, but perfect for turning. Junk wood is amazing turned. Apple, prickle ash. As a teenager while riding with my parents, I would see trees cut up, and left to rot on the side of the road. At night, we would ride out on our bikes, and sort of borrow some wood. She would rough it out with an axe, and bam, a bowl. Thing is, no matter how much I helped her, or hinted I wanted one, she never gave a bowl. Once I was eating at her house, and she left the room. Her mother said, "Just take some. She never miss'em." Her whole house was filled with bowls.
100% correct. I've turned some UGLY wood.
Great idea on the microwave. I will have to try that, thanks.
It's not hard. Trust me!
Also fun to put it on one of those kitchen scales. One bowl went from 750g to 270 g in a week. I nuked it like every few days and then turned it again.
@@1antti hey, at what level did you microwave bowl, medium, low, high?
@@josipaugustinovic5114 medium settings 👍
Awesome tips Rex an thanks for the knowledge Sir
My pleasure!
Great info and that bowl turned out great to.
Thanks, bro!
I didnt know ya did much turning rex. This a great video like always.
Great videos. Thanks for posting. I will try some of your techniques.
Not to be different, but I usually turn wet wood. And I finish the piece 100% in one day. Except for Elm. I mean wet too. Leaves on the tree to finished bowl, one day. Water hitting the face shield. It is not difficult.
I just turn to the final thickness then sand the inside at a good speed. The coarse grits, 120 and 180 tend to load up with sawdust and water to form a paste on the sandpaper. Good. Just blast it off with the air compressor and re do that same piece of sandpaper until it stops loading up. Continue through the grits. Remember I said the INSIDE only. The centrifugal force is throwing water out. I often use the compressor to push the water out if the wood is open grained like oak. Spin it up at a high speed for a minute. That often helps. In short order the interior is finish sanded. Now the exterior is ready for the same progression, but it will go even faster. If the wood is too damp to apply finish you can let it dry for a day then touch up by hand with 600 grit or oooo steel wool then apply your finish.
The bowl will warp to an oval shape, but rarely cracks. Depending on the grain orientation the bottom may need to be flattened out at a later date, but that is so easy. I use 4 jaw chucks for everything. With the tenon on the base, rather than a mortise, I end up with a slightly concave bottom when completed. Very easy to re flatten if needed.
there one thing i like particulary in your vidéo, it's clear like mineral water !!! even for a french guy like me. very intersting method to get out moisture with de microwave. thanks a lot.
My pleasure! Glad you found it so clear!
OK, forget 'lol' as a mere expression. I literally laughed out loud at the angelic choir singing in rapturous praise of turning green wood. Too funny! Your videos really are the best, bro!
I appreciate that. I'm trying to up my game on production. Glad it worked!
The BEST youtuber ever!!!
You're very kind!
Hell yeah I agree.
Very good and informative video. I rarely turn dry wood, the only problem is when it dries it always distorts some more than others so I have to leave it thick enough to return it to the lathe and turn it round. I have never used a microwave to dry wood, does the wood distort as much as letting it dry naturally. Thanks for sharing I'm sure a lot of new woodturners will be helped by this video.
Great video. I've been turning for about 20 years now and my son has my old Delta lathe. I currently use a Laguna Revo24 for large projects and smaller Rikon for pens, smaller bowls, Christmas ornaments, finials and, most recently, a new mallet head for chisels turned from a wet hickory log a friend traded me for some stuff I had. Lots of projects planned for the 45' of wood there. I usually turn bowls to about 80% thickness, 24 hours in denatured alcohol, put a date on the bottom amd toss in a box full of shavings or wrap in newspring and put on a shelf for awhile. May need to try the microwave method - should fit on the shelf with the toaster oven I use for curing stabilized turning blanks.
I was wonder what to do. I have a fresh cut, very wet poplar branch. I'm anxious to make something but like you said, everything I've ever done was always dried.
another helpfull video!! Thanks
Succinct, to the point and on point.
Hey Rex, harbor freight has moisture meters for less than $20 iirc.
Also, another method that I've used when microwaving wood is to get a cheap digital scale (mine was like $10 on Amazon), weigh the rough turned wood just before microwaving (this will be a baseline) and then continue weighing it after each session in the microwave. I usually set the scale to grams so that it's easier to calculate the % of weight loss from the baseline. Eventually the weight loss will slow/and stop.
I also set my microwave to half power and did 2 minute sessions which seems to work well, just make sure you always watch it. The first time I tried the microwave, I think I put it in for 3 minutes on high. In the kitchen microwave. The inside of the wood actually started smoldering. My wife wasn't too please with me that night. Luckily I didn't damage the microwave or burn down the house.
You are lucky and I'll be sure to try some of those techniques out!
The thing that works for me is I will completely finish a green bowl and use Minnwax Polyurethane clear coat for a finish and I rarely ever get a crack. I suppose the polyurethane seals the green wood enough for it to dry slowly. It will warp some but it makes a beautiful piece of art. I never turn dry wood.
Badgers around High Wycombe in the early 20th century turned Windsor chair parts in the woods on pole lathes. Mostly Elm and Ash.
Polyethylene Glycol used to be recommended for preventing splits. I’ve never tried it.
Never heard of it before now. Fascinating!
Bodgers...
Steve SteveS badgers were much more interesting...
good idea .. you can also bury them in sawdust for several months to a year depending on the thickness of the wood
Cool video brother
Cuts allot better I hear. It's one of the reasons your SPF dimensional lumber isn't fully dried nails don't go in it when it's too dry.
At the start the audio was a bit off and I was about to leave because I just hate that but Im SO glad I stayed till the end
Glad you were able to be pleased, Nancy.
You can also weigh it with a cheap digital balance. When it stops losing mass, it’s dry.
Missed ya, great video,
Missed me? I've been dropping videos every week (except over Christmas). But thanks for watching!
LOL my squirrel brain forgot about the sword video.....I knew I remember the band-aid from somewhere. Just got your book - flipped through it quickly - looks like a good read. I'll let ya know what I think and keep up the good work. Squirrrrrrel….
I turn my green bowls down to under 3/8ths and let them warp, I like the irregular shapes they end up with.
That's a good idea. I need to experiment with more irregular shapes.
So you get them down to 3/8ths, let them air dry and no extra cutting right?
I live in Australia I just got to lathe woodgreen would be good for toning, and how would you seal it? So it wouldn't crack or bend after you finish turning
One comment on using faceplates. To use a faceplate properly the wood surface needs to be as flat as possible because the screws don't really turn the blank it's the pressure they put over the contact between the wood and the faceplate that is why larger faceplates hold better than smaller ones do with the same amount of screws there are more square inches of surface area.
From one bald guy to another, I almost didn't notice.
lul
Anyone tried using a large dehydrator (for making jerky) to speed up the drying process? I know mine works good for drying out plaster molds.
I'm about where your at in my woodworking, just behind you in turning a couple months. Having a problem with my green bowls cracking.
Well, give the microwave a shot!
Dry to fast.
Drying Greenwood object, wrap in newspaper and put in a plastic bag, change paper every three days. It take some time wil not crack but nicely deform.
My only question is where would you find wood like this? Probably just in the woods sure, that's a no durr. But is there also a store online where I can buy wood like this?
Do you sell a physical copy of your book about woodturnig or is only available as a download?
If you don't have can old microwave can you set it by a fire with a fan blowing the heat over to it? How long would that take? I could dry a few pieces at the same time
3:50. I do not have a chuck. Could you explain the glue method a little bit? I'm just starting off
I just started a month ago, all I have turned is logs out of my firewood shed. I would love to have a bowl blank some day.
There are lots of videos on RUclips on how to turn a log into a bowl blank. Give it a look and see what you find.
Having trouble turning a hard wood like dry oak usually indicates that the turning tools are not properly sharpened or you're using the wrong tools. A high-speed-steel bowl gouge when sharpened correctly should cut dry oak easily. The carbide tools marketed for novice turners will not take an edge like high speed steel and therefore perform poorly.
Try a vacuum chamber out of the nuker...have a dry turning in as little as one day.
My phone sent me to a sight but it said the url wasn’t there when I wanted to buy your turning book… just so you know-Jeff
I should probably try the microwave thing some day. I generally leave larger, natural pieces of wood in the garage for at least 6 months before doing anything with them but that still leaves them fairly moist (it's not insulated or heated or anything). Allowing them to slowly get rid of that initial moisture does make them a bit harder to turn, but anything that might become a piece-breaking crack should have appeared by that time & can then be worked around.
Seems like a reasonable approach!
@@RexKrueger The only thing is the time & space needed. I've set aside some for 2 small (8 inch) tree trunks though, & that doesn't seem too unreasonable in a shared house.
Night Cat worked around, or transferred to the firewood pile...
Hey Rex, I've been inspired by you to get out of my comfort zone and finally get into woodturning. I have been creating wands (HP style) with just a belt sander so far, but want the ability to work faster and more symmetrically. I just got a Harbor Freight Lathe, but the faceplate is too large for most of the projects I've been wanting to do. Do you have any recommendations on a decent quality chuck that won't break the bank?
Chucks are expensive. Period. But they're not necessary for most work. If your faceplate is too big, get a little one. They're cheap.
Do you have any pictures
I'm not a wood turner. But I thought that they dry the wood because otherwise it dries and warps after you are done, and can even crack or warp heavily 2-3 years after.
So you make the bowl, it looks great right away, but in a few years it's not round anymore and has a crack.
Am I wrong?
You could add a cheap moisture meter for import tools madness, i bought a $20 one and tested against a high end one of a friend, and surprise surprise! They read the same, also we just need one that is basically binary: wet and dry, that should be enough and it can be trusted upon a cheap meter
Good idea! Now, to find a rich friend with a fancy one I can test against.
Hi,
an old kitchen-scales does the job as well. At the point when the bowl looses no weight any more, all the moisture is gone.
cheers
@@christiann.4120 That sounds like a great idea!
My go-to meter is literally a "garden variety"... from one of the sales over in gardening tools... to test the moisture content in dirt.
I found it at the flea market for about $2 (US)... AND it functions about the same old way, runs on a 9V box battery (so cheap/easy), and the scale reaches all the way down to 0% (sand)... ;o)
how in the oven at 200 degrees for a bit??? would that work?
5:34 What causes large splits like this on green wood or log?
Is your book available only in Kindle format? Np paperback?
Hi Rex, quick question.... I recently cut a slice from a eucalyptus tree/branch, about 250mm diameter ans about 25mm thick. I planed it down and sanded it just to see how it looks. What would be the best way to dry this slice to preserve it without cracking to pieces....? Thank you
Is it a round slice with across the branch? That would look like a bullseye. Or is it with the grain, long-wise? If it's a round slice, it will almost certainly crack. Wood just does that. You might be able to stabilize it with a product called Cactus Juice. Or, just see what it does. If it doesn't crack badly, you can just fill the cracks. Good luck!
I haven't had much luck with green wood
haha 'angels singing'
I always turn greenwood :)
not to bug you- but I'm trying to turn green wood as well, I was wondering how you keep it from cracking. I'm trying to turn a 12 inch diamter, by 24 inch - kind of a drum shape. Is there a way to do that without cracking it?
D Wolfe just be prepared for disappointment. I grab anything I can for blanks, both bowl and spindle, and if something cracks badly, well it was good practice.
I am not a beginner but wonder about the extra dirt on the bark of various greenwood e.g. fungus or algae, what can this cause for health, lung, complaints.
Wear a half mask
The microwave will get rid of any bugs, worms or eggs in the green wood. Friend gave me an oak limb from his yard from which I was going to make a mallet. Full of worms.
That's a good point! Cook 'em!
Better not tell the significant other!
@@MikePeaceWoodturning I have a microwave just for my bowls. Saves me a lot of hassle!
I don't have a kindle, can I get the book some other way??
You can read kindle books on any phone or tablet. I'm working on the paperback, but Amazon is really jerking me around.
Depending on the oak species...extremely water permeable...like a straw. The stuff at lowes is no good. Boat makers nightmare.
You could easily make a dryer rack with using a space heater and a box fan. Maybe try beeswax and oil paste so the wood dries slowly to prevent cracking.
i dont have a chuck @ 3:47, i do have a faceplate but i dont get whats a glue block?
A glue block is a block of scrap wood that is glued to the bottom of a piece. You can then mount it on the lathe by screwing the faceplate into the glue block. When you are done turning, just part the glue block off. It is most often used to preserve the full length of wood being without having to sacrifice a couple inches to the screws from the faceplate. BTW, you can turn bowls and hollow forms just fine using a faceplate. You just have to have enough wood to sacrifice the bottom couple inches, or take the time to put a glue block on it.
Why do you put painters tape on the live center?
It helps my sphere-turning cups to fit.
Maybe microwave it less. It will dry naturally (uncooked) if the moisture is less than the inside
I'm cutting wet red oak now - it's hard on the lathe and it grabs my tools
Great job ! My pistachio tree just fell . I cut it up wanting to save it for later when I get a little more experience. I cant rough turn it all and have a 12 in .crotch I want to save. NO clear answers on youttube can you tell me what to do with all this beautiful wood in a timely manner ? {going to crack} ANYONE ?
You'll need to seal the ends. Look for a product called "armor-seal". With the ends sealed, it won't crack.
It is probably too late to help you with this answer, but hopefully, we can save someone else's treasured piece.
Most splits begin at the pith and radiate outward. This is due to the large difference in density of wood at the pith, and drying occurring much quicker, there. When water leaves, it must be replaced with air. If at ALL possible, mill the pith out right away. Chainsaw, bandsaw, handsaw, or gnaw it out with your teeth. Get that pith out.
Secondly, is the old handful-of-straws analogy for wood grain. There are two types of water inside of wood: free water and locked water. The free water is outside of and around the wood cells and moves freely through the tree. This would be between the straws in your hand. This is the first water that will be lost, once we have cross-cut across the fibers, as it has no barriers. In fact, you could stand the log up on end and see over a matter of days a puddle of the free water below.
It takes much longer for the rest of the locked water, which is the water inside the cells, to escape. This would be the water inside the straws in the analogy. The general rule of thumb is 1 year of drying per 1 inch of thickness. Whether or not the pith is able to removed, now, he is right about sealing the ends. They should be sealed from the first hour the tree was felled, if at all possible. But, it's ok if it has to wait. You will just need to trim those ends further and further, the longer you wait, as your splits will go deeper and deeper. Any split that starts will continue. So, trim those off ASAP.
Armor seal is expensive. Scrap latex paint can do the trick, if you reapply it a few times near the beginning, as it gets stretched into cracking with the wood. Wood glue is cheap and works VERY well. I have had years of great success with it. You can also just take some plastic wrap and wrap the entire thing well. I have had great success with this on blanks. The idea is to slow the water loss from the ends of those cut straws so that more water can get sucked from the middle, as it slowly leaves via capillary suction. This will help everything to "move" evenly, so that less cracking will occur.
BUT, he is wrong about things not cracking just by sealing the ends. Even if you were to do all of this, including immediately removing the pith and even an inch further, and sealing the ends immediately... wood will move. It is difficult to predict the stresses the wood was under during growth, but as the water leaves, those stresses will release. This is why we do not like to turn branch wood. Notice in all branches how the pith is closer to the top of the limb. There is always more wood along the bottom. This is the tree's "muscle", meant to overcome the massive weight the limb will have. But, even in the straightest growing, densest wood from just the prime bottom section of any tree... totally unpredictable.
All of this advice only raises your odds for success. Nature will determine the outcome, in the end. Even doing everything right, I still lose about 1 of every 10 bowl blanks to cracking.
So, understanding all of this, maybe some will also understand why there is a large section of turners who do not believe in microwaving. Microwaving the wood makes the trapped water burst the wood cells, which weakens the wood. The item will not last to become an heirloom piece, this way. Wood will always move with humidity changes., no matter how "sealed" you think you get it... dead wood "breathes". If you have broken the structure of the wood at the cellular level, it's likely not going to end pretty. But, we are talking about decades, here, so... beginners will not know of nor care much about this. Kiln drying is the only safe and controllable way to quickly dry wood.
You seem to be using the terms wet and green interchangeably, they're not the same thing and I'm not sure which you mean.
brocktechnology well, 8000 people have watched this video and you're the first one to be confused. I think I'm gonna not lose any sleep over that.
Rex Krueger technically "gonna not lose' is a split infinitive. Are you gonna lose any sleep over your grammar? 🤣
Hey all, if you're interested in green woodwork check out the /r/greenwoodworking subreddit.
Why You not use Your self made lathe for woodturning?
Still working out some design bugs. Fear not, the Real Lathe will return!
@@RexKrueger good luck with fixing those bugs, waiting to see how it's going to look and work when be ready ,all best mate
Post the timestamp of when you figured out Rex had a band-aid on. 1:33
I knew it at 0:00.
Speculating that Rex tried to sneak some new turning gouges into the shop (see previous video) and his wife caught him and clocked him with a frying pan...
@@jlmmorris6714 Right before I shot this video, I had another piece come off the lathe. Clocked me right in the noggin. Face shield purchased!
3:24 when I saw this comment. Cant unsee
@@RexKrueger sounds about right...I bought my face shield about one day after getting punched in the cheek by a roughly 6" dia 7" long piece of hornbeam... fortunately no real damage except to my pride.
My advice, let the wood rest so the water can be evaporated from the log. I can't tell you how many young bloods come in the game and think they know how to turn a log. I been round for a while and nothin beats the fresh log being turned after a hard day on the field. And maybe a bud light from my chevy
You keep your beer in your truck? Huh. Here I was using a refrigerator like an idiot.
Todd Fox you need the Chevy has a cooler in the bed
Noticed the bandaid on ya head... hope you're ok.
Lost a bowl off the lathe...now, I own a face shield.
I think he had a skew mishap.
Did the bowl get finished?... that'd be a story piece on the bar or desk!
Turning the hard as iron wood benefits from having a machine lathe. Just pretend you're turning iron... I have a friend who always turns wood on his machine lathe.
Good point!
Did you hit your head
I think you have some dirt on your head.