Excellent video I purchased a 1980’s dirt bike and figured for the price I could sell it for parts or restore pending vin number decoding. Last person who owned the bike removed powder coating with a little aggressive sanding wheel which makes a few numbers difficult to read. Very close to legible but difficult. I can stare for several seconds and just can’t make out a few numbers. Is it easy to find Frys and Nitric reagent in small amounts intentionally to be used once or twice and where can I get it? Awesome video!
I had a lot of oxidation after these coats. I think it'd be alright if you oiled it pretty well afterwards. I just got it online together as a kit and delivered to my door.
My grandfather lived alone and i think he wanted a pistal for protection he had alot of cop freinds and they gave him a drop gun with a sratched off numbers and my aunt found it when they were cleanig out the house so im the only one that she noes that plays with guns so sheasked me if i wanted it but the numbers arescratched of i cant cary it i love to its a colt 380 1870to1903 semmie it shoot great nice little pocket gun but i got to get the numbers back on
OK, I see why now, in practice, if you do several applications you get a layer of copper from the fry's reagent building up on the surface. This would limit your fresh solution making the low points deeper I'd imagine. Fry's alone brought back 90% of my numbers, but 2 that were attacked deeper with the angle grinder are still a little shallow to 100% make out. I believe a swab of nitric acid Inbetween applications would help get these back in less time
Yes. Do not do this method on a firearm that you intend on keeping. This oxidizes the metal very quickly and will ruin any finish that is on it. You may want to look into ultrasonic cavitation or electro etching.
Hi, does this process work on any metal? And does it always work? There is no coming back from grinding out the numbers. Thats what I'm afraid off. Basically I'm trying to retrieve the faded Hull or HIN # of my 1978 fiberglass montgomery 10. The hull number is engraved in a small metal plate on the inside of the boat but the type of metal the plate is made of I don't know. Great Great video. Thank you for sharing.
You do realize in order for a firearm to be legally classified as a firearm, it must be functional or in a state in which in can be made functional, right? Better study up on your laws there judge.
Any weapon (including a starter gun) which will or is designed to or may readily be converted to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive; the frame or receiver of any such weapon; any firearm muffler or firearm silencer; or any destructive device. Such term does not include an antique firearm." This definition includes both handguns and long guns, as well as other devices that are designed to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive, such as shotguns, rifles, and machine guns. The definition also includes the frames or receivers of these weapons, which are considered the basic building blocks of a firearm. Additionally, the definition includes silencers and destructive devices, which are subject to their own regulations under federal law.@@MooseKnuckleMike
Excellent video I purchased a 1980’s dirt bike and figured for the price I could sell it for parts or restore pending vin number decoding. Last person who owned the bike removed powder coating with a little aggressive sanding wheel which makes a few numbers difficult to read. Very close to legible but difficult. I can stare for several seconds and just can’t make out a few numbers. Is it easy to find Frys and Nitric reagent in small amounts intentionally to be used once or twice and where can I get it? Awesome video!
I had a lot of oxidation after these coats. I think it'd be alright if you oiled it pretty well afterwards. I just got it online together as a kit and delivered to my door.
My grandfather lived alone and i think he wanted a pistal for protection he had alot of cop freinds and they gave him a drop gun with a sratched off numbers and my aunt found it when they were cleanig out the house so im the only one that she noes that plays with guns so sheasked me if i wanted it but the numbers arescratched of i cant cary it i love to its a colt 380 1870to1903 semmie it shoot great nice little pocket gun but i got to get the numbers back on
Very interesting I'd love more content!
thank you, I'll try it. mike
20th subscriber remember me when you're up!
This was very informative. Thank you for posting. Do you do any other type of Forensic type videos?
I have some coming up! what would you like to see?
Can this be done on a vertical aluminum as in an engine block?
You can speedup the process with a 12 v battery
Why the switching between fry's and nitric acid? I have seen it done with just fry's.
OK, I see why now, in practice, if you do several applications you get a layer of copper from the fry's reagent building up on the surface. This would limit your fresh solution making the low points deeper I'd imagine. Fry's alone brought back 90% of my numbers, but 2 that were attacked deeper with the angle grinder are still a little shallow to 100% make out. I believe a swab of nitric acid Inbetween applications would help get these back in less time
have old shotgun. hard to read make and model number,, any advise.?
Yes. Do not do this method on a firearm that you intend on keeping. This oxidizes the metal very quickly and will ruin any finish that is on it. You may want to look into ultrasonic cavitation or electro etching.
Good video! I need a way to see the engravings on a Civil War Sword without hurting the metal. Would this work or does it damage the metal?
I would not do this on something valuable of yours. Shortly after this video the metal oxidized very quickly and more than just superficial rust.
@@jeffarnold1376 Did you rinse the reagent off of the metal and oil it?
Hi, does this process work on any metal? And does it always work? There is no coming back from grinding out the numbers. Thats what I'm afraid off. Basically I'm trying to retrieve the faded Hull or HIN # of my 1978 fiberglass montgomery 10. The hull number is engraved in a small metal plate on the inside of the boat but the type of metal the plate is made of I don't know. Great Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Damnit! I didn't study for the fingerprint exam 😰 can i do something for extra credit?😊
Its pronounced Re-gent
Never heard it pronounced like that in any lab I have been in, what region are you?
It's not. It's pronounced re-agent.
That is a crime, no matter what your intent.
Ok dad 😂
You do realize in order for a firearm to be legally classified as a firearm, it must be functional or in a state in which in can be made functional, right? Better study up on your laws there judge.
@@MooseKnuckleMikeHave your mommy change your pull-ups, Sparky.
@@Forensource Stay in school kiddo, you’re not fooling anyone here.
Any weapon (including a starter gun) which will or is designed to or may readily be converted to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive; the frame or receiver of any such weapon; any firearm muffler or firearm silencer; or any destructive device. Such term does not include an antique firearm."
This definition includes both handguns and long guns, as well as other devices that are designed to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive, such as shotguns, rifles, and machine guns. The definition also includes the frames or receivers of these weapons, which are considered the basic building blocks of a firearm. Additionally, the definition includes silencers and destructive devices, which are subject to their own regulations under federal law.@@MooseKnuckleMike