Thanks for checking out the video! Sorry about the fast talking, I guess I was just excited! More traditional art, as well as 3D printing and modeling coming soon!
If you haven't tried the Hatchbox filament, you might want to. I like the Makerbot filament the best lately, myself, but the Hatchbox comes in at around 23 bucks from amazon. Quality is really good for the price and I've tried almost all of their colors. Thank you for this video, I'm building one of these now with a student of mine that I'll be sharing this with tomorrow.
I've used Hatchbox on my other printer a bit, and it definitely good. I've actually had very few bad experiences with filaments these days. They all seem to at least have a minimum standard of quality that's decent.
Is it possible to make a videos about getting the settings as good as yours. I have been working on my Kossel delta mini for a while and your prints look so mutch better
Thanks for the video. I have been looking at 3D printers in the last few days and ran across this one and it seems like a good buy for the price vs size of print area. I'd be interested to see more details of the cross bracing you did to minimize the twisting action of the uprights.
Can you please make the video about how you enclosed this printer and the fan ducts I got a mini kossel for Christmas and I was thinking about doing similar upgrades
I'm thinking about buying one of these for $80 from a local seller. It's got an E3D V6 hotend and heated bed. This would also be my first 3d printer. Thoughts?
I agree! The E3D V6 is close to $80 alone. That being said, the mini Kossel does take some effort to get setup and printing well, but one it's tuned up, it creates very nice prints. Ideally if they've been using it, the hard work has been done for you. If you are looking to spend some time learning the ins and outs of 3D printing, and don't mind troubleshooting some, then it's a great printer. If you just want to focus on printing objects, you might be better off with something else. At that price though, it would be hard to pass up! Good luck!
The e3d v6 "all metal" hotend actually has a teflon tube going down into the top of the heatbreak (for 1.75mm). It is all metal because the part that gets hot has no plastic in it.
I've had great success with esun pla pro( ~$22 on amazon) on my rostock max v3. Also petg can be printed without a heated bed, masking tape or printer paper stuck down with spray adhesive works great for bed adhesion.
I've switched it to a "flying extruder" on this printer, and it's worked out great. The extruder is suspended between the three rails so each stepper is only holding 1/3rd of the weight of the extruder motor, and above the hot end, so it does not effect the hot end weight. Worth checking out if you use this type of printer!
Hi, Great video i found it very helpful. I also have a mini kossel, but its running on 1 fan, so which pins or ports did you connected your fans to on the mks mini board? Thanks:)
This was a really great video! I do have a few issues and I'm in need of help! I am still trying to learn how to download the firmware and software to my Mac. I've already built the machine but I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to software and firmware.
Thank you for share it!!! great video. What type of nozzle do you use .35mm, 0.4mm.? What nozzle will be a good choice for good quality print and velocity? Also, which material give better printer quality, ABS or PLA? Thank you, really appreciate.
Finally have it printing now. Not getting amazing quality, especially compared to what youre doing. What settings are you using. I'll try some of the upgrades you have done to see if i can improve quality.. I now have an UP Mini 2 so I have a great quality printer to compare the kossel to. Still i'm impressed with what I'm managing now, and if I can get close to your quality then it will be great for large volume prints. Thanks for the informative vid!
I received my Kossel a few days ago, built it, and after a few tries I was able to get great results! Still learning, but for the first day I am very happy! Mine came with an active cooling fan already though. It is quite noisy but I'll try to oil the carbon-fiber stick's ends tomorrow, that should make it a lot quieter
I received my Kossel a few days ago, built it, and after a few tries I was able to get great results! Still learning, but for the first day I am very happy! Mine came with an active cooling fan already though. It is quite noisy but I'll try to oil the carbon-fiber stick's ends tomorrow, that should give me better results.
I received my Kossel a few days ago, built it, and after a few tries I was able to get great results! Still learning, but for the first day I am very happy! Mine came with an active cooling fan already though. It is quite noisy but I'll try to oil the carbon-fiber stick's ends tomorrow, that should give me better results
Hey, Thanks for the video, great idea with the rod tensioners, I'm going to do that now. Do you know if your part cooling fan will work for the original chinese hotend or just the E3D lite that you have? Also, is the model available for download?
+robormerod I think the fan will work on the original one. I'm working on a video of the fan upgrade, and I'll post the files when I get that all done. Thanks for checking it out!
You mentioned here, and in your blog post that you got the isolation mounts to minimize noise and vibration. Can you provide a link to where you got those?
Hi, I put the same as your metal cables on both sides, but when my printer returns to "Home", effector clings to them. How did you get rid of this? Thank you.
Dude, that is awesome! I know very little about 3d printing, so I am lost when you talk about Slicer and Raspberry Pi, controlling the printer, but dang it looks awesome. Is the PVA strong enough to make a intaglio plate? And does the printer have the sort of resolution (granularity) to make it worthwhile?
+Ed Tillman hey Ed, I'm using PLA plastic on this machine, which is strong, but I don't know that it's strong enough for a good intaglio plate. I'm going to be trying it out for sure. Resolution wise, it's very precise, so that should not be an issue. I'm going to try out collagraph plate first and see how it goes!
Wouldn't the vibration dampers on your stepper motors make prints less accurate? I would think with the extra movement from the motors would translate through the berks belts and ultimately through your print. But I'm going to try it!
Thanks for the video! I also use Fusion 360, mostly for machined parts. Why are you not using the Fusion slicer? Have you tried it? I intend to, but haven't yet. I just built a similar printer, but with linear slides. Turns out it is from Micromaker. I bought it on Aliexpress. I am still tweaking it.
+Ronald Thompson I'm not aware of a slicer built into Fusion, the CAM portion is just for reductive processes as far as I've seen, but maybe I've missed it? I've played around with exporting out to Meshmixer for cleanup and played around with the support features. I've also been messing with Autodesk Print Studio, which looks like it might be promising. I've liked Simplify 3D so far, but I was getting good prints using Slic3r and Cura as well, they all seem decent. Thanks for checking out the video!
+Diode Press I was referring to Print Studio. Isn't that a slicer? Maybe I should have explored it before talking about it. I just saw it a few days ago, and I was at work, so no play time. I printed a 20MM calibration cube and the quality is phenomenal! I just need to tweak the dimensions slightly. I'm using Marlin/Slic3r/Pronterface. I have yet to try Cura.
+Ronald Thompson awesome! oh yes, Print studio is a slicer. I thought maybe there was a built in function in F360 I missed. Slic3r works well also. I have some more upgrades that I've made since this video, so I'll have to get them posted also!
Any chance you could post some HD photos of your prints? And how much did you pay for this kit? Is it similar to the $210 kits from Aliexpress? It looks similar
+DrMrSuperAwesomeGuy I don't have any HD photos right now, but I'll try to include some in future videos showing the prints from this machine. It is similar to that kit, but like I mentioned, I did make a lot of upgrades to get the quality up.
Thank you for the video, it's amazing! About the E3D Lite6, did you order the 12 or 24V and what is the difference between those two? Thank you very much for your answer
I purchased the 12v, since that's what my printer runs on. Depending on the version of Kossel, some now come with the E3D already. I purchased a really cheap kit, so I had to do my own upgrades.
im looking into start learning and then do my own projects. your experience is great. and greater with this machine. really appreciate. i will be asking you some help for advices. im located in colombia south america. here not many 3d printer. but this one looks like affordable and reliable printer. thank you for your video sharing. regards
I also got this printer and i am also having problem with the software can you post the CONFIGURATION.h file somewhere or if you can the entire marlin folder, your help will be very appreciated thanks
hello man .. I like how your prints came out... I just bought one at the beginning it was OK ..but now it prints offset all the time ..do you have any suggestions how to solve this ...thanks
Sorry, it's hard to know what the problem could be without some more detail. There are many forums online that you can probably find some help on. Good luck!
I didn't get mine from there, but that's great if that one comes with it! There are a ton of these kits from different sellers with different options, some high quality, some not so much from what I can tell. Mine had a very generic hot end that was not so great.
Good CHEAP pla brand: Hatchbox. I've been using their pla for almost 1.5 years and have been very pleased with the dimensional accuracy. I was disappointed with their hips plastic, but haven't done much with that anyway.
Hello, I have the same printer, but i can 't calibrate well. Do you know about "autocalibration"? You help me with some tips ? Sorry for my english, I'm from Argentina . Thanks !!!
How did you fit and setup the 'X' tension cables? Are they just attached to the frame using M3's? I need to do this to mine but before I make it I cant think of how to tighten it. No point doing it if there is going to be slack in the cable, kinda defeats the 'tension' part of it hehe
A hobby site might have some tiny turnbuckles, but I just found a "body only" turnbuckle at Lowes for $7 each. It has a turnbuckle body & two long rods for use as a truss rod on a screen door. I think it's 42 inches long, but could be shortened. It would eliminate the need/cost for/of wires and wire eye clamps, just cut to length & make a hole or hook on the ends of the rods. I have an Flsun kit still in the box & I think I'll try four, two on each of the back sides, like DP did above with cables if I think it needs them. That might be more than cables, but it could be easier & should work well. Of course there is ALWAYS THE OPTION, maybe even the imperative, to design & 3D print turnbuckles... :o) I just might try that myself. A low stretch fishing line might be an option as well, there are some high tech ones.
Great Video I have the same printer but lost my firmware. Could I get a copy of your firmware?? It would really help me, I have been pulling out my hair trying to get it to work again
Thanks! You should be able to get it from the wiki: reprap.org/wiki/Kossel down under links I believe there is a link to the marlin firmware on github. Good luck!
Hello, initially I tell my English language is very bad !. I hope you know understand. My question is : what type of filament advised me to use ?, which manufactures wine is excellent but not that brand is . Now buy verbatim but is brittle and not adhere sections , in addition to deform the base even use hot bed. You have any brand or manufacturer to recommend! ? . Greetings from Argentina! Gonzalo!
I do a little bit. There is a spur gear add-in under the add-ins button, but I've had mixed results. What I typically do though is use an online gear generator to do your design, and then export out an SVG. Then in Fusion you can bring that in, extrude it up, add hubs, etc. Hope that helps!
did you have nay problems with the fan not working? I thought it was the fan at first so I bought a noctua model and plugged it up and still no power. any thoughts?
+Steven Wysner I kept the stock fan and created a shroud for part cooling, then connected the E3D fan to 12v on the board (I soldered on next to power plug) since the E3D needs that fan on all the time to work properly. The stock fan Connection is variable through the software, so you'd need to make sure it's turned on if your going to use it for the E3D. Good luck!
I built a kossel awhile ago and I've been having problems getting it to stop stringing and when I started really getting into tweaking things the printer would hang and I would have to cancel the print. At first I was thinking this was the fault of the control board, but I checked out your blog and noticed that you replaced your power supply, mine is 6amps and I'm thinking I should replace it like you did. can you recommend one?
+kinsaikun Unfortunately I can't recommend one. I first got a 12v 10amp one off of Amazon, but it died after a few weeks. I tried another one and it's been working ok. From the reviews I've seen on there, its hit or miss as far as quality, so I can't give you a solid one to try! Perhaps one with a good return policy...
I don't think think 16amp would be overkill if you had one, but I don't know that it would ever get close to needing that much. I believe the xbox psu might need modifications/soldering to get it to work if I recall. I know LulzBot sells a 12v 16amp psu online, I would bet it's probably a decent one (but needs an adapter for the plug). Good luck!
Thanks for the video, very informative. I'll be buying my first printer soon and I'm thinking about getting this one. It's kind of cheap right now: $400 w free shipping, and I was kind of expecting to have to pay more. I'm wondering if I can get this with a better hot end and/or something that can print at 50um layer heights. Anyone know of a printer like that?
When I first got this printer it did not make the highest quality prints, but after a lot of calibration, and tweaking it does a good job. The upgraded fan shroud, extruder, etc. all helped a lot. So maybe not the best if you just want a click and print, but if you have the interest in tinkering and learning, it's a fun project. 50um is going to be long printing times! check out Thomas Sanladerer's channel, he has some great reviews and might be able to steer you in a good direction.
Nice Video i also have a China 3D Printer and i'm very happy with that printer. One very good mode is a Filament Filter. But i also had some issues with my Printer but now it works fine . The only issue i'm didn't get rid of is that my Hotend Leaks and some times it drops on the Printer. Do u have that issues with the better Hotend ? And how much does that Hotend coasts ?
Leo, what temperature are you printing with PLA? It can drip if the hot end gets too hot. Try using the repeteir software to control the printer. It can graph the temperature and by doing this you might be able to see if the hot end is overshooting your target temperature.
I just ordered the E3d V6 form the web site and the mount for the side fan for about $40 usd. I didn't need the ceramic heater, thermometer or fan so it was a bit cheaper.
Never ever use them anti vibration mounts. They allow the stepper motors to twist slightly meaning that they cannot produce the fine quality as the power is no longer there
You're overpaying significantly if you use makerbot filament. If you live near a micro center or are willing to order a couple kilos, they sell PLA for $14.99 a kilo. Awesome stuff. Been through 50 or so rolls and am very happy with it.
I actually like the Makerbot filament, it works great, I agree it's expensive though. I'm always up for trying different brands, so I'll check it out! I've been using a lot of Matterhackers PLA, they often have good clearance deals.
+Steven Machado They're often on aliexpress and Ebay for ~$225 or so, but then I added a lot of upgrades after I got it. These cheap kits are really hit or miss, I've had good luck, but a lot of reviews on those sites show that other people have had really bad luck, so I can't really recommend it unless you're up for the tinkering and upgrades.
The cooling fan is controlled by the board, for variable speed. The fan for the hot-end is at 100% all the time (per E3D instructions) so I soldered it directly to the 12v feeds on the board. So it runs whenever the board is powered. Proceed at your own risk, but it worked for me. Good luck!
Hi, i have one of this, im really starting with 3d printing, and im gatting kind of frustrated. the print results are HORRIBLE the same patron as your first hand, but MUCH MUCH worst. i dont know if it is the temperature or some config file. can u give me a hand?
+Martin Gutierrez Yea I can try! Send me a message through RUclips or shoot me an email at diodepress (at) gmail.com and I can see if I can help! Let me know what your settings are/material.
I recently built a kossel myself and I've been thinking about setting it up with simplify3d, are there any god resources for setting up a kossel mini with simplify3d? I haven't found too much that covers it specifically
+Chad Stevenson I don't recall finding a guide for S3D for the Kossel. You can choose a delta style machine, and fill in the bed volume information in the G-code tab. I believe the X & Y origin offset is just half build volume. Under the scripts I just have it set for G28 in the starting script, but you could add the auto level and all that stuff, and then a few more in the ending scripts to turn off extruder, home, disable motors. I did a lot of trial and error, and kept my hand ready to unplug it if things went wrong! S3D is very responsive to email, so it might be worth a shot!
+Diode Press thanks for the reply that basically covered what i needed to know. but I cant seem to figure out what the build volume is supposed to be, is it supposed to be the radius of the print bed or the diameter? also have you gotten the auto level to work in simplify 3d?
I remember running into something odd with the bed size also. I had this in my bookmarks, I think it explained it: forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1807 Regarding auto level, I don't mess with it anymore. I actually made my hot end mount rigid, and am not using the switch. I found the flex and play in the joint showed up in my printing. I just make sure it's very level and try not to mess it up. I think you should be able to add the Gcode command to the pre print scripts though.
thanks for the reply! that link did explain it and was super helpful. also your advice about calibrating is totally solid, there's no substitute for a good calibration. I was able to mess with some of the gcode in the pre print scripts but i haven't tested a g29 with simplify3d yet. can I ask, what temperature are you printing at? I'm getting spaces in my prints at 190deg. I'd love to ask for a copy of your S3D settings but unless they can be exported and uploaded to google drive or dropbox that would be a little exhaustive and time consuming... ^^ thanks for the info so far, its been very helpful :)
You can definitely print some materials without a heated bed. PLA works very well without it. Other materials such as ABS are very hard to print without warping if a heated bed is not used.
+Kay Jansen I don't yet. I am working on a video on the design, and I'll export a .stl and link to it then. If I get it done sooner, I'll reply to this w/ the link. Thanks!
hello, i'm not able to configure in Klipper, could you help me i have a ramps 1.4 and the mini-kossel but when i follow other tuto on youtube it work. But not the Axis its like decals the Z is more down and the nozzle go outside the print zone
The fan shroud? I designed it in Fusion 360 and printed it out. I'm working on a new design, and I'll make a video/post the files when I do. This white one works good, but it sticks out and limits the printable area a little bit.
Diode Press ok sweet. it's not a genuine e3dv6 is it? it looks like a clone. about to buy one but checking first as I'll upgrade the hit end straight away
+ike zara I looked up a lot of guides on this printer, and found that this one www.robertshady.com/content/beginners-guide-rostock-max-3d-printer-seemecnccom helped a lot. You need to get the three towers calibrated and get it dead level, and also make sure that it's calibrated for concave/convex. That link has a section on it also. The Reprap wiki is also really good. Good luck!
+wayne nothe absolutely, that's the idea of the RepRap project, which this type of printer is part of. Unfortunately it's all the non-3D printed parts that drive up the cost! For now It's just self improving rather than self replicating :)
Thanks for checking out the video! Sorry about the fast talking, I guess I was just excited!
More traditional art, as well as 3D printing and modeling coming soon!
Just ordered this printer- looking forward to more of these videos- Thanks for your hard work!
I purchased this same model and I'm very interested in the torus cooler, hope to see your next video with the design.
If you haven't tried the Hatchbox filament, you might want to. I like the Makerbot filament the best lately, myself, but the Hatchbox comes in at around 23 bucks from amazon. Quality is really good for the price and I've tried almost all of their colors. Thank you for this video, I'm building one of these now with a student of mine that I'll be sharing this with tomorrow.
I've used Hatchbox on my other printer a bit, and it definitely good. I've actually had very few bad experiences with filaments these days. They all seem to at least have a minimum standard of quality that's decent.
Is it possible to make a videos about getting the settings as good as yours. I have been working on my Kossel delta mini for a while and your prints look so mutch better
Thanks for the video. I have been looking at 3D printers in the last few days and ran across this one and it seems like a good buy for the price vs size of print area. I'd be interested to see more details of the cross bracing you did to minimize the twisting action of the uprights.
Can you please make the video about how you enclosed this printer and the fan ducts I got a mini kossel for Christmas and I was thinking about doing similar upgrades
I'm thinking about buying one of these for $80 from a local seller. It's got an E3D V6 hotend and heated bed. This would also be my first 3d printer. Thoughts?
$80 is amazing even if you use it as a doorstop.
I agree! The E3D V6 is close to $80 alone. That being said, the mini Kossel does take some effort to get setup and printing well, but one it's tuned up, it creates very nice prints.
Ideally if they've been using it, the hard work has been done for you. If you are looking to spend some time learning the ins and outs of 3D printing, and don't mind troubleshooting some, then it's a great printer. If you just want to focus on printing objects, you might be better off with something else. At that price though, it would be hard to pass up! Good luck!
The e3d v6 "all metal" hotend actually has a teflon tube going down into the top of the heatbreak (for 1.75mm). It is all metal because the part that gets hot has no plastic in it.
I've had great success with esun pla pro( ~$22 on amazon) on my rostock max v3. Also petg can be printed without a heated bed, masking tape or printer paper stuck down with spray adhesive works great for bed adhesion.
I've been printing with the pla pro this weekend, it really does work great!
I was looking at a kit for a model just like this for my first printer, would you suggest it? Did yours require any soldering? Very helpful!
The point of having the bowden style is to keep the weight down on the hot end so you can do faster prints. That's the benefit of the deltas.
I've switched it to a "flying extruder" on this printer, and it's worked out great. The extruder is suspended between the three rails so each stepper is only holding 1/3rd of the weight of the extruder motor, and above the hot end, so it does not effect the hot end weight. Worth checking out if you use this type of printer!
Hi, Great video i found it very helpful. I also have a mini kossel, but its running on 1 fan, so which pins or ports did you connected your fans to on the mks mini board? Thanks:)
This was a really great video! I do have a few issues and I'm in need of help! I am still trying to learn how to download the firmware and software to my Mac. I've already built the machine but I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to software and firmware.
Thank you for share it!!! great video. What type of nozzle do you use .35mm, 0.4mm.? What nozzle will be a good choice for good quality print and velocity? Also, which material give better printer quality, ABS or PLA? Thank you, really appreciate.
Mine arrived today keen to check it out.
Good luck with it, I love mine!
Finally have it printing now. Not getting amazing quality, especially compared to what youre doing. What settings are you using. I'll try some of the upgrades you have done to see if i can improve quality.. I now have an UP Mini 2 so I have a great quality printer to compare the kossel to. Still i'm impressed with what I'm managing now, and if I can get close to your quality then it will be great for large volume prints. Thanks for the informative vid!
I received my Kossel a few days ago, built it, and after a few tries I was able to get great results! Still learning, but for the first day I am very happy! Mine came with an active cooling fan already though. It is quite noisy but I'll try to oil the carbon-fiber stick's ends tomorrow, that should make it a lot quieter
I received my Kossel a few days ago, built it, and after a few tries I was able to get great results! Still learning, but for the first day I am very happy! Mine came with an active cooling fan already though. It is quite noisy but I'll try to oil the carbon-fiber stick's ends tomorrow, that should give me better results.
I received my Kossel a few days ago, built it, and after a few tries I was able to get great results! Still learning, but for the first day I am very happy! Mine came with an active cooling fan already though. It is quite noisy but I'll try to oil the carbon-fiber stick's ends tomorrow, that should give me better results
Hey, Thanks for the video, great idea with the rod tensioners, I'm going to do that now. Do you know if your part cooling fan will work for the original chinese hotend or just the E3D lite that you have? Also, is the model available for download?
+robormerod I think the fan will work on the original one. I'm working on a video of the fan upgrade, and I'll post the files when I get that all done. Thanks for checking it out!
Hey I'm thinking about buying this 3D printer, kinda random question, does it come with the tools to assemble it, or do I need to order some of those
hi! good review.
can you make a tutorial changing the extruder?
Are the model(s) you used to make the airflow nozzels for this available to the public? I am interested in printing them ^_^*
take a look: www.grabcad.com/library/3d-delta-printer-upgrades-1
so the cooling was one of the main problems for the prints?
Great work, you can also try prusa printer kit as well..
Yea, I'd love to give one of them a go at some point!
You mentioned here, and in your blog post that you got the isolation mounts to minimize noise and vibration. Can you provide a link to where you got those?
I got the Astrosyn dampers from Ultibots, but Matterhackers and a lot of other places online sell them. Good luck!
Hi,
I put the same as your metal cables on both sides, but when my printer returns to "Home",
effector clings to them. How did you get rid of this?
Thank you.
Dude, that is awesome! I know very little about 3d printing, so I am lost when you talk about Slicer and Raspberry Pi, controlling the printer, but dang it looks awesome.
Is the PVA strong enough to make a intaglio plate? And does the printer have the sort of resolution (granularity) to make it worthwhile?
+Ed Tillman hey Ed, I'm using PLA plastic on this machine, which is strong, but I don't know that it's strong enough for a good intaglio plate. I'm going to be trying it out for sure. Resolution wise, it's very precise, so that should not be an issue. I'm going to try out collagraph plate first and see how it goes!
Hope you will make a video of the experiment. Cannot wait to see what becomes of it.
Wouldn't the vibration dampers on your stepper motors make prints less accurate? I would think with the extra movement from the motors would translate through the berks belts and ultimately through your print. But I'm going to try it!
The dampers are very stiff, and allow for very little flex, so I've noticed no loss of accuracy. Good luck!
Thanks for the video! I also use Fusion 360, mostly for machined parts. Why are you not using the Fusion slicer? Have you tried it? I intend to, but haven't yet. I just built a similar printer, but with linear slides. Turns out it is from Micromaker. I bought it on Aliexpress. I am still tweaking it.
+Ronald Thompson I'm not aware of a slicer built into Fusion, the CAM portion is just for reductive processes as far as I've seen, but maybe I've missed it? I've played around with exporting out to Meshmixer for cleanup and played around with the support features. I've also been messing with Autodesk Print Studio, which looks like it might be promising. I've liked Simplify 3D so far, but I was getting good prints using Slic3r and Cura as well, they all seem decent. Thanks for checking out the video!
+Diode Press I was referring to Print Studio. Isn't that a slicer? Maybe I should have explored it before talking about it. I just saw it a few days ago, and I was at work, so no play time. I printed a 20MM calibration cube and the quality is phenomenal! I just need to tweak the dimensions slightly. I'm using Marlin/Slic3r/Pronterface. I have yet to try Cura.
+Ronald Thompson awesome! oh yes, Print studio is a slicer. I thought maybe there was a built in function in F360 I missed. Slic3r works well also. I have some more upgrades that I've made since this video, so I'll have to get them posted also!
Any chance you could post some HD photos of your prints? And how much did you pay for this kit? Is it similar to the $210 kits from Aliexpress? It looks similar
+DrMrSuperAwesomeGuy I don't have any HD photos right now, but I'll try to include some in future videos showing the prints from this machine. It is similar to that kit, but like I mentioned, I did make a lot of upgrades to get the quality up.
would the fail printable 3d hand you can probably make it look like a Halloween decoration ?
Thank you for the video, it's amazing! About the E3D Lite6, did you order the 12 or 24V and what is the difference between those two? Thank you very much for your answer
I purchased the 12v, since that's what my printer runs on. Depending on the version of Kossel, some now come with the E3D already. I purchased a really cheap kit, so I had to do my own upgrades.
I just bought the same printer (it seems: FLSUN 3d ) that why i was very interested in. Thank you very much for your fast and nice answer!
im looking into start learning and then do my own projects. your experience is great. and greater with this machine. really appreciate. i will be asking you some help for advices. im located in colombia south america. here not many 3d printer. but this one looks like affordable and reliable printer. thank you for your video sharing. regards
Thanks for watching! I'm hoping to do some more 3D printing videos soon!
I also got this printer and i am also having problem with the software can you post the CONFIGURATION.h file somewhere or if you can the entire marlin folder, your help will be very appreciated thanks
Can you tell me wich printer should i get anet a8 or delta kossel
hello man .. I like how your prints came out... I just bought one at the beginning it was OK ..but now it prints offset all the time ..do you have any suggestions how to solve this ...thanks
Sorry, it's hard to know what the problem could be without some more detail. There are many forums online that you can probably find some help on. Good luck!
wasnt the hot end an E3D v5 that came with it? that is what the spec say on 3dprinteronlinestore.
I didn't get mine from there, but that's great if that one comes with it! There are a ton of these kits from different sellers with different options, some high quality, some not so much from what I can tell. Mine had a very generic hot end that was not so great.
you rocks man
Good CHEAP pla brand: Hatchbox. I've been using their pla for almost 1.5 years and have been very pleased with the dimensional accuracy. I was disappointed with their hips plastic, but haven't done much with that anyway.
Hello, I have the same printer, but i can 't calibrate well. Do you know about "autocalibration"? You help me with some tips ? Sorry for my english, I'm from Argentina .
Thanks !!!
How did you fit and setup the 'X' tension cables?
Are they just attached to the frame using M3's? I need to do this to mine but before I make it I cant think of how to tighten it. No point doing it if there is going to be slack in the cable, kinda defeats the 'tension' part of it hehe
A hobby site might have some tiny turnbuckles, but I just found a "body only" turnbuckle at Lowes for $7 each.
It has a turnbuckle body & two long rods for use as a truss rod on a screen door. I think it's 42 inches long, but could be shortened. It would eliminate the need/cost for/of wires and wire eye clamps, just cut to length & make a hole or hook on the ends of the rods. I have an Flsun kit still in the box & I think I'll try four, two on each of the back sides, like DP did above with cables if I think it needs them. That might be more than cables, but it could be easier & should work well.
Of course there is ALWAYS THE OPTION, maybe even the imperative, to design & 3D print turnbuckles... :o)
I just might try that myself. A low stretch fishing line might be an option as well, there are some high tech ones.
Great Video I have the same printer but lost my firmware. Could I get a copy of your firmware?? It would really help me, I have been pulling out my hair trying to get it to work again
Thanks! You should be able to get it from the wiki: reprap.org/wiki/Kossel down under links I believe there is a link to the marlin firmware on github. Good luck!
Hello, initially I tell my English language is very bad !. I hope you know understand.
My question is : what type of filament advised me to use ?, which manufactures wine is excellent but not that brand is . Now buy verbatim but is brittle and not adhere sections , in addition to deform the base even use hot bed. You have any brand or manufacturer to recommend! ? .
Greetings from Argentina!
Gonzalo!
I've been using Matterhacker Pro PLA a lot, and I've had nothing but good luck with it.
Hi, do you design your gears also in fusion 360? and do you have any tips about gear design?
thnx in advance
I do a little bit. There is a spur gear add-in under the add-ins button, but I've had mixed results. What I typically do though is use an online gear generator to do your design, and then export out an SVG. Then in Fusion you can bring that in, extrude it up, add hubs, etc. Hope that helps!
Nice video, good presentation A+
+Wayne Nero thanks!
did you have nay problems with the fan not working? I thought it was the fan at first so I bought a noctua model and plugged it up and still no power. any thoughts?
+Steven Wysner I kept the stock fan and created a shroud for part cooling, then connected the E3D fan to 12v on the board (I soldered on next to power plug) since the E3D needs that fan on all the time to work properly. The stock fan Connection is variable through the software, so you'd need to make sure it's turned on if your going to use it for the E3D. Good luck!
I built a kossel awhile ago and I've been having problems getting it to stop stringing and when I started really getting into tweaking things the printer would hang and I would have to cancel the print.
At first I was thinking this was the fault of the control board, but I checked out your blog and noticed that you replaced your power supply, mine is 6amps and I'm thinking I should replace it like you did.
can you recommend one?
+kinsaikun Unfortunately I can't recommend one. I first got a 12v 10amp one off of Amazon, but it died after a few weeks. I tried another one and it's been working ok. From the reviews I've seen on there, its hit or miss as far as quality, so I can't give you a solid one to try! Perhaps one with a good return policy...
+Diode Press
10amps is a good place to start, would a 16amp xbox psu be overkill? thanks for the reply :)
I don't think think 16amp would be overkill if you had one, but I don't know that it would ever get close to needing that much. I believe the xbox psu might need modifications/soldering to get it to work if I recall. I know LulzBot sells a 12v 16amp psu online, I would bet it's probably a decent one (but needs an adapter for the plug). Good luck!
Thanks for the video, very informative. I'll be buying my first printer soon and I'm thinking about getting this one. It's kind of cheap right now: $400 w free shipping, and I was kind of expecting to have to pay more. I'm wondering if I can get this with a better hot end and/or something that can print at 50um layer heights. Anyone know of a printer like that?
When I first got this printer it did not make the highest quality prints, but after a lot of calibration, and tweaking it does a good job. The upgraded fan shroud, extruder, etc. all helped a lot. So maybe not the best if you just want a click and print, but if you have the interest in tinkering and learning, it's a fun project. 50um is going to be long printing times! check out Thomas Sanladerer's channel, he has some great reviews and might be able to steer you in a good direction.
Nice Video i also have a China 3D Printer and i'm very happy with that printer. One very good mode is a Filament Filter. But i also had some issues with my Printer but now it works fine . The only issue i'm didn't get rid of is that my Hotend Leaks and some times it drops on the Printer. Do u have that issues with the better Hotend ? And how much does that Hotend coasts ?
cost *
Leo, what temperature are you printing with PLA? It can drip if the hot end gets too hot. Try using the repeteir software to control the printer. It can graph the temperature and by doing this you might be able to see if the hot end is overshooting your target temperature.
U Can 3D Print I bought a all Metall hotend now it workls fine
Good to hear!
I just ordered the E3d V6 form the web site and the mount for the side fan for about $40 usd. I didn't need the ceramic heater, thermometer or fan so it was a bit cheaper.
THANK'S FOR TALK FAST, IT ISN'T BORED
wild thanks 4 the heads up
Never ever use them anti vibration mounts. They allow the stepper motors to twist slightly meaning that they cannot produce the fine quality as the power is no longer there
You're overpaying significantly if you use makerbot filament. If you live near a micro center or are willing to order a couple kilos, they sell PLA for $14.99 a kilo. Awesome stuff. Been through 50 or so rolls and am very happy with it.
I actually like the Makerbot filament, it works great, I agree it's expensive though. I'm always up for trying different brands, so I'll check it out! I've been using a lot of Matterhackers PLA, they often have good clearance deals.
Diode Press i have been using makergeeks filament, if you dont care about color it can be quite inexpensive
So where did you find this for "A couple hundred"?
+Steven Machado They're often on aliexpress and Ebay for ~$225 or so, but then I added a lot of upgrades after I got it. These cheap kits are really hit or miss, I've had good luck, but a lot of reviews on those sites show that other people have had really bad luck, so I can't really recommend it unless you're up for the tinkering and upgrades.
How do you install two fans? my board only has 1 output for fan. My mini kossel kit is the same as you
The cooling fan is controlled by the board, for variable speed. The fan for the hot-end is at 100% all the time (per E3D instructions) so I soldered it directly to the 12v feeds on the board. So it runs whenever the board is powered. Proceed at your own risk, but it worked for me. Good luck!
May i suggest you the BQ filament: www.bq.com; I try some different types, and i stuck with BQ. They are also economical.
Hey what kind of desk mat/pad is that and where did you get it?
It's a Creative Mark brand mat. I got it at jerry's artarama, they have a ton of difference sized. It's held up really well so far.
thanks !
Can U please give the 3D printer parta STL file link?
Hi, i have one of this, im really starting with 3d printing, and im gatting kind of frustrated. the print results are HORRIBLE the same patron as your first hand, but MUCH MUCH worst. i dont know if it is the temperature or some config file. can u give me a hand?
+Martin Gutierrez Yea I can try! Send me a message through RUclips or shoot me an email at diodepress (at) gmail.com and I can see if I can help! Let me know what your settings are/material.
Inland filament is only 14.99 and its quality is not too shabby personally i use it but robo 3ds filament is amazing
Awesome! I've been using a lot of eSun filament recently, since it's available on Amazon. I'll have to give Inland a try!
I recently built a kossel myself and I've been thinking about setting it up with simplify3d, are there any god resources for setting up a kossel mini with simplify3d? I haven't found too much that covers it specifically
+Chad Stevenson I don't recall finding a guide for S3D for the Kossel. You can choose a delta style machine, and fill in the bed volume information in the G-code tab. I believe the X & Y origin offset is just half build volume. Under the scripts I just have it set for G28 in the starting script, but you could add the auto level and all that stuff, and then a few more in the ending scripts to turn off extruder, home, disable motors. I did a lot of trial and error, and kept my hand ready to unplug it if things went wrong! S3D is very responsive to email, so it might be worth a shot!
+Diode Press
thanks for the reply that basically covered what i needed to know. but I cant seem to figure out what the build volume is supposed to be, is it supposed to be the radius of the print bed or the diameter?
also have you gotten the auto level to work in simplify 3d?
I remember running into something odd with the bed size also. I had this in my bookmarks, I think it explained it: forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1807 Regarding auto level, I don't mess with it anymore. I actually made my hot end mount rigid, and am not using the switch. I found the flex and play in the joint showed up in my printing. I just make sure it's very level and try not to mess it up. I think you should be able to add the Gcode command to the pre print scripts though.
thanks for the reply! that link did explain it and was super helpful. also your advice about calibrating is totally solid, there's no substitute for a good calibration. I was able to mess with some of the gcode in the pre print scripts but i haven't tested a g29 with simplify3d yet.
can I ask, what temperature are you printing at? I'm getting spaces in my prints at 190deg. I'd love to ask for a copy of your S3D settings but unless they can be exported and uploaded to google drive or dropbox that would be a little exhaustive and time consuming... ^^
thanks for the info so far, its been very helpful :)
is a heat bed really required to make everything without it we can build every thing ..??
You can definitely print some materials without a heated bed. PLA works very well without it. Other materials such as ABS are very hard to print without warping if a heated bed is not used.
Hi, do you have the fan duct .stl file somewhere for download. Gratz :)
+Kay Jansen I don't yet. I am working on a video on the design, and I'll export a .stl and link to it then. If I get it done sooner, I'll reply to this w/ the link. Thanks!
What is the filament diameter?
hello, i'm not able to configure in Klipper, could you help me i have a ramps 1.4 and the mini-kossel but when i follow other tuto on youtube it work. But not the Axis its like decals the Z is more down and the nozzle go outside the print zone
Sorry, I no longer have this machine available to troubleshoot. Good luck
@@DiodePress no it's ok i just change the microstep and it work
where did u buy the printer?
I got it as a kit from AliExpress. Lots of different sellers with different versions of the kit. I've heard good and bad outcomes, so buyer beware!
where do you get the white fans?
The fan shroud? I designed it in Fusion 360 and printed it out. I'm working on a new design, and I'll make a video/post the files when I do. This white one works good, but it sticks out and limits the printable area a little bit.
OHHHH!!!! You are God!!!!!!! Thanks for the recomendations!
Is this the FLSUN kit?
It is, although an older kit. It looks like the recent versions have some upgrades from the kit I have.
Diode Press ok sweet. it's not a genuine e3dv6 is it? it looks like a clone. about to buy one but checking first as I'll upgrade the hit end straight away
what voltage is the light version you used?
My printer is 12 volt.
Thank You.
Please can you upload the your firmware? I wrognand i delete this! please and thank you
HOW calibrate bedhot?
I bought one of these but I can't get the print to be flat
+ike zara I looked up a lot of guides on this printer, and found that this one www.robertshady.com/content/beginners-guide-rostock-max-3d-printer-seemecnccom helped a lot. You need to get the three towers calibrated and get it dead level, and also make sure that it's calibrated for concave/convex. That link has a section on it also. The Reprap wiki is also really good. Good luck!
+Diode Press cool thank you for the reply.
hobbyking colido pla is nice because it print nice and its cheap
theoretically, couldn't you just print out all the components that make up this 3-D PRINTER and have yourself another 3-D printer ? lol
+wayne nothe absolutely, that's the idea of the RepRap project, which this type of printer is part of. Unfortunately it's all the non-3D printed parts that drive up the cost! For now It's just self improving rather than self replicating :)
It's existed since 2006
Wth!
Can U please give the 3D printer parta STL file link?