So the replacement driver side headlamp C light is going out again and I will have to reach out to Spyder to see what can be done. I am not sure but maybe having one power supply to both lights is causing the issue but I can't confirm the issue yet.
So I disassembled the lights and found that the C lights are only wired in with some diodes inline no relay or modules. I suspect the way they wired these can't handle the load as there were some hot spots burning into the wire near the diode. I've switched to the Spec D lights you can find on ebay and Amazon for about the same price and wired them back up. So far about 2 months with no issues.
Thank you very much for this video, it was the most helpful instructions ever. Had my son-in-law do this morning on my 2010 GMC. The instructions from Spyder were incomplete for hooking the C-tube lights to work. Your video was 100% excellent, now all works !!!
2007 Chevy Silverado (new model) with DT Moto Optic LED projector headlights. I received terrible Customer service from the seller as to wiring these lights. The headlights had direct connect plugs but there was poor information on connecting the LED light bars. Your video showed me how to wire up. My fuses were one number off from yours 31-32, 33-34, 43-44 but in the same locations in the panel. Also I had no idea how to install a fusible link so had to RUclips that as well. I don't know much about wiring but was able to figure it out with your helpful video. Thank you!!!
One of the DT Moto headlights was not working so I returned them and bought CG - Black LED DRL Bar Projector Headlights instead. They are working great.
I just installed these exact headlights on my 07 Sierra today following exactly what you said to do with the wiring. They turned out perfect. Got the same results. Top notch thank you so much for the vid and instruction.
Great video buddy. I've been looking at these lights for the past year (300 dollars)and now I'll know all I need to know. My 2012 Sierra SLT will look great with them, as does yours.
THANKS FOR THIS!! haha, I just installed these yesterday with the full intention of not having to use my freakin low beams for DRLs- tired of changing low beam bulbs every year. I'm all for figuring out stuff on my own but I'm absolutely doing this today!
Update 12/4/18: So I have had these for just about a year and they had been working great. At the beginning of November the driver side "C" shaped light stopped working. It would either not turn on at all or just have the bottom 3" or so try to light up. I troubleshot the problem and checked fuses and even hooked the "C" light up to direct power to eliminate a bad ground or a short somewhere. The problem has persisted and it appears as though the lights inside the "C" are the problem. In order to fix this you would have to open the housing and then go through and diagnose the problem. THIS IS NOT WORTH IT TO ME. For the time being I have disconnected the wires and capped them to disable the "C" lights. I contacted Spyder directly who stated they only supply a one year warranty but stated they may be able to exchange the driver headlight for me once they have one in stock. Which they did not have for some odd reason for a major corporation. We shall see if they hold up their end of the bargain when I call back in a few weeks. For now I would NOT recommend anyone buys these headlights if you want this feature. Not only have I had this issue but I know of three other people who have had the same issue conveniently right after the one year warranty mark.
I know this is an old video but I'm wondering if your ebrake is on while your demonstrating how your DRLs are not on with the fuses pulled? I pulled the DRL fuses on my 2012 Sierra and they still come on when I put it in gear. I don't like the DRLs and the bad thing about my truck is that I don't have any information on the gauges that tell me that they are on or off. Thanks for the ignition source to tap into, I needed that and found it with your video.
So after pulling the DRL fuse the low beams will no longer function as a DRL. The way I then wire the "C" light is to act now as the DRL. So if you pulled the fuse and wired it like I did then the low beam will only function at night and the "C" light will function as your new DRL.
With this wiring setup, will the lights turn on automatically at dusk or do you need to manually switch them on? Will pulling the DRL fuses throw any messages up on the instrument panel? Thanks for the video, its very helpful. Cheers
TheWaded the lights are always on if the truck is on so day or night. No error codes by removing the fuses. I've had my fuses removed for about 5 years with no issues.
Hey, Scott. What size fuses are in your fuse tap? I have an extra fuse tap laying around with a 2 amp fuse in it, would that work when I add the original 10 amp to it? Thanks
Hey I am thinking of getting the Sam exact headlights. My question is, will I have to make any side purchases and do I have to wire the same way? Please help!!
Christian Rodriguez you don't have to do anything other than plug and play. It's very simple out of box. You will have to align them after install. These are things that I have done to get it to operate the way I want. The changes I made was using the C as a daytime running light and replacing the white side marker light with an orange one. Those are just preferencs though.
Hey Scott. Have u had any issues with moisture as lots of the reviews talk about adding a silicon bead around the casing. Also can I as led bulbs instead of the regular halogens that come with this package. Great job by the way.
No issues with mostiture as of yet and I didn't put any extra silicone in. LED bulbs can be added but getting them to fit is the tricky part. I found it easier to just get a halogen with a blue hue to it. Like the Phillips Ultra Vision or Sylvania ones. You also need to replace the boot on the back side with an aftermarket one to ensure a weather tight seal if you go with LED or HID.
Hey Scott, good info on stand alone wiring of the “c” lights... I just bought a set of these for my 2010 gmc... think you could make a quick rundown video of wiring up the ballast,relays, and associated wiring for the installation of these? I spread out the wiring in my floor, and it doesn’t make a lot of sense... thanx in advance
Other than the C lights which I have detailed on how to wire everything else is pretty much plug and play. No relays or ballast or anything like that. If you start with just hooking up the stuff you know you'll start to figure it out by process of elimination. Hope this helps.
At the fuse panel could you have used the existing daytime running lights fuse slots or wiring that you removed using them to run the C light instead tying into another ignition on slot? Also how’s the reliability at this point. Thx
Yes you could but the C light would then shut off when the headlights are on during nighttime. Also the DRL fuse runs at a lower power so you may see issues with the C light functioning properly. Reliability is great to this point aside from the one headlight issue which Spyder warrantied.
Logan Miller no not with these ones. My stock taillight on the passenger side did have some condensation issues. I was told by GMC that the stock taillight having condensation is not necessarily a defect. I think what they said was if it stayed throughout the day or turned into water the seal was broken. But with these Spyder headlights and taillights I have had no issues at all.
Fes Mansfield I solder the wires together I wanted a more permanent connection. But the butt connectors that have the shrink tubing integrated into them they are pretty good nowadays. Definitely would save some time.
Scott Roberts. Dude thanks again, I just finished doing my lights, per your instructions on the video everything came up perfect. I need your help though. I need your expertise on aligning the lights. Any tips ??? Perhaps you should do a video on that. Thanks again brother !!!
Just did this installation yesterday and for some reason my daytime running lights won’t turn off when I turn off my truck. They just stay on so I’ve had to just unplug the battery for the mean time any thoughts on what I might have wired wrong?
i did this a few weeks ago and after about a week one of the c's blew out, is there too much power running to the lights when they are hooked up this way? have you had any trouble?
young savage I've not had any issues since install. Did you put the add a fuse in? And were you sure to use a lower amp fuse for the power supply to the C?
young savage the stock engine one your tapping into is a 10 amp so long as you use a lower amp one for the lights you'll be good. That's the only thing I can think of that would cause an issue or maybe a bad ground? Any other issues with the lights?
Scott Roberts ok gotcha, an no. they were working perfectly until it shorted out on me one day. I'm gonna take my time and make sure everything is perfect next time. I'll be sure to use a 7.5 fuse also
When you switch the auto lights off they will be off regardless of whether the fuses are in or not. Just like when auto lights are on the low beams will be on regardless of the fuses
Mario Gonzalez light output is good. Better than stock for sure. Close to as good as HIDs but not quite. I tried HID but couldn't find any that fit like OEM so I got some Phillips Crystalvision.
Yeah they are great. I think they are just bright enough that they work well as daytime running lights and are not overpowering during night driving with the regular headlights on.
I tried to install the same lights and followed every step you did except the wiring the black wire to your braking lights. I turned on my truck and all the lights turned not just the "C" do you know what could be causing this?
LEWY Gaming not sure I wouldn't think that would affect the other lights. Are the high beams on as well? Did you unplug the day time running light fuses?
Scott Roberts the high beams are not on and I did take out the fuses that you said. I can turn off the rest of the lights manually but when I turn on the truck, the low beams and parking lights
LEWY it sounds like your lights are on because it's dark. The parking lights should only come on if it is dark out and the light sensor kicks on. Are you parked in the shade or is the light sensor on the dash covered?
So the replacement driver side headlamp C light is going out again and I will have to reach out to Spyder to see what can be done. I am not sure but maybe having one power supply to both lights is causing the issue but I can't confirm the issue yet.
I have these same headlights, pretty sure wired them same way and my passenger one quit today but about 3 inches on the lower C works.
@@hikuntrylml5999 yep that's the problem I kept having.
So I disassembled the lights and found that the C lights are only wired in with some diodes inline no relay or modules. I suspect the way they wired these can't handle the load as there were some hot spots burning into the wire near the diode. I've switched to the Spec D lights you can find on ebay and Amazon for about the same price and wired them back up. So far about 2 months with no issues.
@@Scott-BattleBorn did you just get new ones? Or did you figure out how to fix them?
Thank you very much for this video, it was the most helpful instructions ever. Had my son-in-law do this morning on my 2010 GMC. The instructions from Spyder were incomplete for hooking the C-tube lights to work. Your video was 100% excellent, now all works !!!
Finally, my question on how to make them work with DRL's is answered. Thanks! Good job!
Shit looked for 3 days straight on how to do this. 🤣
Glad it helped. 🤘
For real.
You are the reason why my halos are finally working. Thank you!!
2007 Chevy Silverado (new model) with DT Moto Optic LED projector headlights. I received terrible Customer service from the seller as to wiring these lights. The headlights had direct connect plugs but there was poor information on connecting the LED light bars. Your video showed me how to wire up. My fuses were one number off from yours 31-32, 33-34, 43-44 but in the same locations in the panel. Also I had no idea how to install a fusible link so had to RUclips that as well. I don't know much about wiring but was able to figure it out with your helpful video. Thank you!!!
One of the DT Moto headlights was not working so I returned them and bought CG - Black LED DRL Bar Projector Headlights instead. They are working great.
I just installed these exact headlights on my 07 Sierra today following exactly what you said to do with the wiring. They turned out perfect. Got the same results. Top notch thank you so much for the vid and instruction.
MrNasty021 awesome glad it worked out for ya. Have you got any questions on what year your truck is? I've got people thinking it's a 14 body style.
Great video buddy. I've been looking at these lights for the past year (300 dollars)and now I'll know all I need to know. My 2012 Sierra SLT will look great with them, as does yours.
THANKS FOR THIS!! haha, I just installed these yesterday with the full intention of not having to use my freakin low beams for DRLs- tired of changing low beam bulbs every year. I'm all for figuring out stuff on my own but I'm absolutely doing this today!
Thanks for the info on wiring and longterm review on the lights
I just installed these on my 2011 Sierra and the look freakin awesome. Thanks for the video on how to wire in dtrl
Great video !!!👌 just installed them on my 2010 Sierra .
thank you for this video followed to a tee and lights work perfectly. saved me lots of time and headache 👍👍
Benny Liske good to know glad it worked out for you.
Update 12/4/18: So I have had these for just about a year and they had been working great. At the beginning of November the driver side "C" shaped light stopped working. It would either not turn on at all or just have the bottom 3" or so try to light up. I troubleshot the problem and checked fuses and even hooked the "C" light up to direct power to eliminate a bad ground or a short somewhere. The problem has persisted and it appears as though the lights inside the "C" are the problem. In order to fix this you would have to open the housing and then go through and diagnose the problem. THIS IS NOT WORTH IT TO ME. For the time being I have disconnected the wires and capped them to disable the "C" lights.
I contacted Spyder directly who stated they only supply a one year warranty but stated they may be able to exchange the driver headlight for me once they have one in stock. Which they did not have for some odd reason for a major corporation. We shall see if they hold up their end of the bargain when I call back in a few weeks.
For now I would NOT recommend anyone buys these headlights if you want this feature. Not only have I had this issue but I know of three other people who have had the same issue conveniently right after the one year warranty mark.
Do you need to do the ground wire, or can you jus do the power wire?
Great video
Yes you need to ground the wire or tap into a negative wire.
Thanks worked great for me
Thank you! I think I'm just going to use t-taps to connect the wires though.
We’re did u buy the wire harness at my didn’t come with it ??)
I know this is an old video but I'm wondering if your ebrake is on while your demonstrating how your DRLs are not on with the fuses pulled? I pulled the DRL fuses on my 2012 Sierra and they still come on when I put it in gear. I don't like the DRLs and the bad thing about my truck is that I don't have any information on the gauges that tell me that they are on or off. Thanks for the ignition source to tap into, I needed that and found it with your video.
So after pulling the DRL fuse the low beams will no longer function as a DRL. The way I then wire the "C" light is to act now as the DRL. So if you pulled the fuse and wired it like I did then the low beam will only function at night and the "C" light will function as your new DRL.
@@Scott-BattleBorn I got to thinking that maybe it was just dark enough for my automatic lights to come on and I thought it was my DRLs. Thanks again
With this wiring setup, will the lights turn on automatically at dusk or do you need to manually switch them on? Will pulling the DRL fuses throw any messages up on the instrument panel? Thanks for the video, its very helpful. Cheers
TheWaded the lights are always on if the truck is on so day or night. No error codes by removing the fuses. I've had my fuses removed for about 5 years with no issues.
Thanks for the quick reply, I mean the low beams, will the low beams automatically come on at dusk without the DRL fuses installed?
TheWaded yes low beams automatically come on at dusk.
Perfect, Thanks a Ton buddy!
Hey, Scott. What size fuses are in your fuse tap? I have an extra fuse tap laying around with a 2 amp fuse in it, would that work when I add the original 10 amp to it? Thanks
Great work looks nice
Hey I am thinking of getting the Sam exact headlights. My question is, will I have to make any side purchases and do I have to wire the same way? Please help!!
Christian Rodriguez you don't have to do anything other than plug and play. It's very simple out of box. You will have to align them after install. These are things that I have done to get it to operate the way I want. The changes I made was using the C as a daytime running light and replacing the white side marker light with an orange one. Those are just preferencs though.
Hey Scott. Have u had any issues with moisture as lots of the reviews talk about adding a silicon bead around the casing. Also can I as led bulbs instead of the regular halogens that come with this package. Great job by the way.
No issues with mostiture as of yet and I didn't put any extra silicone in. LED bulbs can be added but getting them to fit is the tricky part. I found it easier to just get a halogen with a blue hue to it. Like the Phillips Ultra Vision or Sylvania ones. You also need to replace the boot on the back side with an aftermarket one to ensure a weather tight seal if you go with LED or HID.
Really helped a lot
Hey Scott, good info on stand alone wiring of the “c” lights... I just bought a set of these for my 2010 gmc... think you could make a quick rundown video of wiring up the ballast,relays, and associated wiring for the installation of these? I spread out the wiring in my floor, and it doesn’t make a lot of sense... thanx in advance
Other than the C lights which I have detailed on how to wire everything else is pretty much plug and play. No relays or ballast or anything like that. If you start with just hooking up the stuff you know you'll start to figure it out by process of elimination. Hope this helps.
At the fuse panel could you have used the existing daytime running lights fuse slots or wiring that you removed using them to run the C light instead tying into another ignition on slot? Also how’s the reliability at this point. Thx
Yes you could but the C light would then shut off when the headlights are on during nighttime. Also the DRL fuse runs at a lower power so you may see issues with the C light functioning properly. Reliability is great to this point aside from the one headlight issue which Spyder warrantied.
@@Scott-BattleBorn Thanks Scott, J
What gauge wire did you use for power?
I tried to match the gauge it came with I think it was 18 or 16 gauge
Do the DRLs dim out at night with headlights on?
They do not full bright all the time. From what I remember it is this way even if you plug and play it from factory.
@@Scott-BattleBorn got ya. So the DRL goes into night mode? Dimmer setting?
have you had any problems with moisture in the headlights, after driving in the rain with your headlights on, or any other condictions
Logan Miller no not with these ones. My stock taillight on the passenger side did have some condensation issues. I was told by GMC that the stock taillight having condensation is not necessarily a defect. I think what they said was if it stayed throughout the day or turned into water the seal was broken. But with these Spyder headlights and taillights I have had no issues at all.
Badass video and thank you for the info !!
Did you use butt connectors or did you solder the wires ?
Fes Mansfield I solder the wires together I wanted a more permanent connection. But the butt connectors that have the shrink tubing integrated into them they are pretty good nowadays. Definitely would save some time.
Scott Roberts. Dude thanks again, I just finished doing my lights, per your instructions on the video everything came up perfect.
I need your help though. I need your expertise on aligning the lights. Any tips ???
Perhaps you should do a video on that.
Thanks again brother !!!
Well, I got the alignment done, wish I could send you a couple of pictures, they look badass !!!
Fes Mansfield yeah I'm happy with them got the tail lights to match. They are nice and work well but not sure I absolutely love the tail lights.
Just did this installation yesterday and for some reason my daytime running lights won’t turn off when I turn off my truck. They just stay on so I’ve had to just unplug the battery for the mean time any thoughts on what I might have wired wrong?
Without seeing what you used as your power lead it's hard to know. But it sounds like you may have tapped into a constant power.
very good video. Did you use any of the old light bulbs with the new headlight?
imApproval no I had HID in the stock housing. The new headlights come with bulbs and I just switched out the low beams for some Phillps Ultravision.
Scott Roberts thanks. The spyder headlights I purchased from amazon only comes with 2 light bulbs. On each headlight.
imApproval mine have a high beam a low beam and the fluorescent C.
Scott Roberts mines also came like that but I noticed that theres 2 holes for light bulbs.
Excellent men tanks
Where did you purchase these? And can you send the link
Hey can you send me the link too?
They’re on amazon
can you shut the C light off manually with the switch with the truck running?
gmfan72 I'm sure you could add one in line but I don't have any interest in that.
i did this a few weeks ago and after about a week one of the c's blew out, is there too much power running to the lights when they are hooked up this way? have you had any trouble?
young savage I've not had any issues since install. Did you put the add a fuse in? And were you sure to use a lower amp fuse for the power supply to the C?
I used a 10 and a 20 fuse because that's all I had at the time, that may have been the problem. I'm gonna use a 5 when I get my new lights in.
young savage the stock engine one your tapping into is a 10 amp so long as you use a lower amp one for the lights you'll be good. That's the only thing I can think of that would cause an issue or maybe a bad ground? Any other issues with the lights?
Scott Roberts ok gotcha, an no. they were working perfectly until it shorted out on me one day. I'm gonna take my time and make sure everything is perfect next time. I'll be sure to use a 7.5 fuse also
Do you have to connect the red and black wire so the light would work
Cris Anzaldua yes.
So what's the connection thats right next to it
Where did you get the fusible link from?
they are available at any parts store but for a few dollars more you can get a complete set on Amazon and have extras left over
@@Scott-BattleBorn I just found them on Amazon and ordered a few sets. Thank you
so the low beams are factory running lights with these? along with the C?
also the fuses you used in the link are a 10 and 7.5?
The way they are set up from the factory is that the low beams are DRL and the C turn on at night only.
The stock one is 10 amp and the one power supply to the lights is 7.5
I just did this to my truck today. When you switch the auto lights off just the C will be on whether the DRL fuses are in or not
Also when auto lights are off just the C is on even when it's dark
This is true it is running off of the ignition power source so they will be on as long as the engine is on.
So what's the reason for pulling the fuses?
sandkicker619 it makes it so that the low beam headlights are off during the day.
When you switch the auto lights off they will be off regardless of whether the fuses are in or not. Just like when auto lights are on the low beams will be on regardless of the fuses
What kind of bulb did you use for the high beam?
Mario Gonzalez I believe they come with H1 bulbs in both high and low beams.
Scott Roberts how is the light output? Would you recommend HID conversion for the low beam? TIA
Mario Gonzalez light output is good. Better than stock for sure. Close to as good as HIDs but not quite. I tried HID but couldn't find any that fit like OEM so I got some Phillips Crystalvision.
When you turn your turn signals on do they hyperblink?
Scott Naylor no they don't sorry just saw this comment. They use the same stock turn bulbs.
Very good video those c light is it bright enough ?
Yeah they are great. I think they are just bright enough that they work well as daytime running lights and are not overpowering during night driving with the regular headlights on.
I tried to install the same lights and followed every step you did except the wiring the black wire to your braking lights. I turned on my truck and all the lights turned not just the "C" do you know what could be causing this?
LEWY Gaming which black wire are you refrencing?
Scott Roberts that one you talked about in minute 1:19
LEWY Gaming not sure I wouldn't think that would affect the other lights. Are the high beams on as well? Did you unplug the day time running light fuses?
Scott Roberts the high beams are not on and I did take out the fuses that you said. I can turn off the rest of the lights manually but when I turn on the truck, the low beams and parking lights
LEWY it sounds like your lights are on because it's dark. The parking lights should only come on if it is dark out and the light sensor kicks on. Are you parked in the shade or is the light sensor on the dash covered?