i did this same thing on my hi matic e based on this video worked great. its a little different looking where the lower tab is soldiered to the wire but basically the same thing. thanks for having this out.
FYI - there's no reason to remove the grip. Pop the top off and thread the new wire from the top down and you can do it with half the work shown here and no exterior damage.
If you solder to the wire loom, the camera will drain its batteries when it is not in use. The place to solder the new wire to is hard to get to - it's the ground contact for the battery test switch, and it lives under the yellow wire contact for the same switch, down below the rangefinder. Another black wire also attaches here. The switch contact may have corroded. Solder the replacement wire to the other black wire.
I just redid it the way I found it, I did learn however that the lens must be covered or as you said the battery will drain fast. I read somewhere that using the lens cap was the "off switch". I killed 2 or 3 batteries before i learned this. If I have the opportunity to do another I will try your method.
@@ebenostby I haven't quite understood where I should solder to avoid the battery drain, does using a lens cap fix this anyway? I already wasted 4 batteries because I thought I did a poor job soldering so that info would help me a lot!
@@alessandrv The battery test switch is that button on the back. Inside the camera, that button operates a contact that connects two sets of wires. One of those sets of wires is yellow, and the other set of wires is black. The yellow set obscures your view of the black set. You want to solder your new wire to the remaining black wire. (If you solder to the wire loom as described in this video, the camera's measuring circuit is always "on" and so the camera is using at least a little battery all the time.)
@@ebenostby so you suggest to solder it to the old cable laying around from where it corroded, so on the bottom of the camera, or to remove all the viewfinder and try to solder it where the black wire starts? Sorry didnt quite understand what you mean
I don’t suppose you’d be able to tell me where you soldered the wire on to? I think it’s somewhere near the shutter button. The entire wire came off on mine and I can’t see where it was connected.
Glad I could help, I rewatched this video and realized I never finished it. Anyway, at 3:53 the pencil tip is pointing to the common ground, you may need a loupe and very good light to see it clearly. Several wires come together and (as i remember) are soldered to a tab that connects to the frame of the camera. Using a loupe you may be able to find the nub of the old wire. Its pretty tight in there but very doable. Good luck
@@tobroken1965 Again as state above thank you for this video, very helpful and informative. Just picking up on your last reply, if the black wire (i thought it was at first a -ve wire, but it seems to be more like a ground wire) is just soldered to a tab located on the camera's frame, shouldn't it be possible to relocated that ground spot to a more accessible area on the camera's frame?
As far as I can tell, it shouldnt make any difference. I replaced the wire as it was just because thats how it was, also its pretty tight in there and it was the easy fit for me with my skill set, you may be able to devise a more direct plan. @@shirwa1997
I have a hi matic G and I am trying to revive the light meter due to corrosion. I was wondering if you knew what size diode was in line on the red wiring to the light meter. I know this is a different model but hoping it has some I’d the same inside components
I know this video is several years old now - but i followed this guide and tried to fix my hi-matic F - but now the battery drains 24/7 unless i take it out! Any idea what is causing that?
It's been a while but I had one that did the same thing. If I am thinking of the right camera, this is the one that needs the lens cover on when not in use. It took me two or three batteries to figure that out. There is no on/off switch so the meter is working all of the time.
Because you soldered to the common ground the meter never turns off. Theres a better spot to solder to deeper in the camera that prevent this, but it’s a far more involved repair. Did the lens cap solve your issue?
@@macauleyroman2311 It didn't, though I've come a long way in my journey of repair and think I'd do a better job now. Any idea where the spot is to do the repair properly? I'd like to get it written down somewhere.
What time kind/gauge of replacement wires should I use for the black wire that has corroded off? Sure enough, I opened the bottom and it was disconnected and corroded completely away.
I dont know what gauge wire I used for the replacement but it was slightly thicker that the original, there is no benefit to thinker wire and may make replacement harder. I would pick the closest to the original you can find, perhaps in another junk camera or even a small radio or similar electronic device. Mono filament wire is fine, the voltage is so low almost any fine wire will do as long as the jacket on the wire is in good condition.
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Thank you so much for posting this! You were super thorough and it helped a lot- much appreciated!
Your welcome, glad it helped.
i did this same thing on my hi matic e based on this video worked great. its a little different looking where the lower tab is soldiered to the wire but basically the same thing. thanks for having this out.
Glad i could help, good luck!
Wonderful! This is my first successful electronic repair in a camera. Thank you!
You're welcome, glad this video helped.
FYI - there's no reason to remove the grip. Pop the top off and thread the new wire from the top down and you can do it with half the work shown here and no exterior damage.
If you solder to the wire loom, the camera will drain its batteries when it is not in use. The place to solder the new wire to is hard to get to - it's the ground contact for the battery test switch, and it lives under the yellow wire contact for the same switch, down below the rangefinder. Another black wire also attaches here. The switch contact may have corroded. Solder the replacement wire to the other black wire.
I just redid it the way I found it, I did learn however that the lens must be covered or as you said the battery will drain fast. I read somewhere that using the lens cap was the "off switch". I killed 2 or 3 batteries before i learned this. If I have the opportunity to do another I will try your method.
@@tobroken1965 Great to know!
@@ebenostby I haven't quite understood where I should solder to avoid the battery drain, does using a lens cap fix this anyway? I already wasted 4 batteries because I thought I did a poor job soldering so that info would help me a lot!
@@alessandrv The battery test switch is that button on the back. Inside the camera, that button operates a contact that connects two sets of wires. One of those sets of wires is yellow, and the other set of wires is black. The yellow set obscures your view of the black set. You want to solder your new wire to the remaining black wire. (If you solder to the wire loom as described in this video, the camera's measuring circuit is always "on" and so the camera is using at least a little battery all the time.)
@@ebenostby so you suggest to solder it to the old cable laying around from where it corroded, so on the bottom of the camera, or to remove all the viewfinder and try to solder it where the black wire starts? Sorry didnt quite understand what you mean
Thanks man. Really helped me to replace the exact same wire which had corroded off.
I don’t suppose you’d be able to tell me where you soldered the wire on to? I think it’s somewhere near the shutter button. The entire wire came off on mine and I can’t see where it was connected.
Glad I could help, I rewatched this video and realized I never finished it. Anyway, at 3:53 the pencil tip is pointing to the common ground, you may need a loupe and very good light to see it clearly. Several wires come together and (as i remember) are soldered to a tab that connects to the frame of the camera. Using a loupe you may be able to find the nub of the old wire. Its pretty tight in there but very doable. Good luck
@@tobroken1965 Again as state above thank you for this video, very helpful and informative. Just picking up on your last reply, if the black wire (i thought it was at first a -ve wire, but it seems to be more like a ground wire) is just soldered to a tab located on the camera's frame, shouldn't it be possible to relocated that ground spot to a more accessible area on the camera's frame?
As far as I can tell, it shouldnt make any difference. I replaced the wire as it was just because thats how it was, also its pretty tight in there and it was the easy fit for me with my skill set, you may be able to devise a more direct plan. @@shirwa1997
@@tobroken1965 Cheers, much appreciated...I'll give it a go and see where I get.
thank u so much. It was a great help!
You save my camera. Thank you!!
Glad I could help, if you have any observations or helpful tips, please post them.
I have a hi matic G and I am trying to revive the light meter due to corrosion. I was wondering if you knew what size diode was in line on the red wiring to the light meter. I know this is a different model but hoping it has some I’d the same inside components
I dont have any idea, that is all a mystery to me. I suggest old camera forums, Minolta specific if there are any.
I know this video is several years old now - but i followed this guide and tried to fix my hi-matic F - but now the battery drains 24/7 unless i take it out! Any idea what is causing that?
It's been a while but I had one that did the same thing. If I am thinking of the right camera, this is the one that needs the lens cover on when not in use. It took me two or three batteries to figure that out. There is no on/off switch so the meter is working all of the time.
Because you soldered to the common ground the meter never turns off. Theres a better spot to solder to deeper in the camera that prevent this, but it’s a far more involved repair. Did the lens cap solve your issue?
@@macauleyroman2311 It didn't, though I've come a long way in my journey of repair and think I'd do a better job now.
Any idea where the spot is to do the repair properly? I'd like to get it written down somewhere.
thank you so much
What time kind/gauge of replacement wires should I use for the black wire that has corroded off? Sure enough, I opened the bottom and it was disconnected and corroded completely away.
I dont know what gauge wire I used for the replacement but it was slightly thicker that the original, there is no benefit to thinker wire and may make replacement harder. I would pick the closest to the original you can find, perhaps in another junk camera or even a small radio or similar electronic device. Mono filament wire is fine, the voltage is so low almost any fine wire will do as long as the jacket on the wire is in good condition.
It's not a video, just some poor quality pictures with captions!