Other tutorials create a dovetail shape on the face side of the mortise, then “fan” the tenon out with the wedges. Is that overkill? It certainly makes it easier to do it the way you have it in the video.
I'm curious as to why you didn't taper the mortise. I've always seen this kind of joint done that way. Obviously it didn't matter for your final result. Is it because of the wood you used? Something like the taper isn't necessary if you're going to use hardwood and/or glue the joint? Basically what I'm seeing in the joint the way you did it was the only "gap" to fill with the wedges was the one you created by cutting the saw kerfs in the tenon itself. To me it didn't seem as mechanically strong as when there is a taper in the mortise itself.
I was wondering the same thing Frank. Also when cutting the wedge kerfs in the tenon, he didn't stop drill the ends. I guess you can get away with it some times.I'm never that lucky.
This might be crazy but why not do your layout from a center line for this & the screw location? Measure down from the top edge of the chop on center & go.
I'd think it's to get equal pressure on the sides of the mortise and to reduce chances of a break in the wood from the flexing pressure, also if you did it in the middle it may not flex far enough or if it was off centre it may only make one side push out causing a slipping motion if pressure is put on the side without the "wing" so to speak, if you cacan visualise it you would end up with something that looks like a one sided dovetail, one Side would be wedged in place and the other prone to slipping and possibly making the entire joint fall out or break part way out. I hope that helps.
I have seen pictures of two wedges positioned across the width of the tenon, one at each end. Is it possible to place wedges on each side of the length of the tenon?
Four years late but I was wondering the same thing earlier today. The important factor is the grain direction of the mortise piece: the wedges should be at right angles to it. If they are parallel to the grain, there would be a risk of splitting
Watched the whole Moravian Workbench series at the Video.PopularWoodworking site. Plan to build this myself. How I wish I could get me some lovely Southern Yellow Pine up here in Canada. Love your style, your woodworking technique is inspiring, and makes me want to build stuff and build my hand tool skills.
Once again here is another video calling it a Wedged Mortise and Tenon but in actuality, it is just a mortise and tenon with a decorative-looking wedge in the tenon. a True Wedged Mortise is tapered from the back to the face of the finished workpiece the width of the wedge to be used. This is a True Wedge mortise Not the one in this video, here you have just made a mortise and tenon joint with fake wedges. There is a difference.
This is a great video of this technique. Thanks Joshua
You're most welcome!
Thanks for posting this!! Very clear and concise. Great tip about sharpening the wedges with a chisel -- much easier than with a band saw!
You're most welcome! But bandsaws are quicker if you've got multiple wedges to make. See my latest video for that exact topic.
very good attention to detail; many thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Always exceptional even after 5 years
You are very talented. Nice job. Douglas
Nicely done thanks for the demo
that was superb, great tips
Great craftsmanship and quality video.
+ronin4711 Thanks man!
Very interesting tips, thanks so much for your knowledge Will.
+Humus Workshop You're welcome!
Great information. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the demo !
Very good! Thank you.
Pretty great!
This is better if you picture roy underhill just off camera playing that flute 5:20
😆
Other tutorials create a dovetail shape on the face side of the mortise, then “fan” the tenon out with the wedges. Is that overkill? It certainly makes it easier to do it the way you have it in the video.
Do I need to use hardwood for my wedges?
Love the lovely guitar playing :-) Thanks
Was that you playing?
Bosse Grytbakk Nope, it was my friend Jonathan Lubeck. It's an old Civil War song.
Ok. .....a very nice melody for sure :-)
I'm curious as to why you didn't taper the mortise. I've always seen this kind of joint done that way. Obviously it didn't matter for your final result. Is it because of the wood you used? Something like the taper isn't necessary if you're going to use hardwood and/or glue the joint? Basically what I'm seeing in the joint the way you did it was the only "gap" to fill with the wedges was the one you created by cutting the saw kerfs in the tenon itself. To me it didn't seem as mechanically strong as when there is a taper in the mortise itself.
I was wondering the same thing Frank. Also when cutting the wedge kerfs in the tenon, he didn't stop drill the ends. I guess you can get away with it some times.I'm never that lucky.
This might be crazy but why not do your layout from a center line for this & the screw location? Measure down from the top edge of the chop on center & go.
i believe you have two different ups.
Ive heard about a "CHOP", but haven't a clue what it means.
When doing a wedged mortise and tenon - why are there two wedges and not just one? Is there a structural advantage to using two?
I'd think it's to get equal pressure on the sides of the mortise and to reduce chances of a break in the wood from the flexing pressure, also if you did it in the middle it may not flex far enough or if it was off centre it may only make one side push out causing a slipping motion if pressure is put on the side without the "wing" so to speak, if you cacan visualise it you would end up with something that looks like a one sided dovetail, one Side would be wedged in place and the other prone to slipping and possibly making the entire joint fall out or break part way out.
I hope that helps.
Thank you for the response Daniel Starbuck. That makes a lot of sense.
no problem, im happy to help buddy.
no problem, im happy to help buddy.
no problem, im happy to help buddy.
Damn, I want that leg vise.
You should totally make one Stuart! The DVD shows the whole process.
I have seen pictures of two wedges positioned across the width of the tenon, one at each end. Is it possible to place wedges on each side of the length of the tenon?
Four years late but I was wondering the same thing earlier today. The important factor is the grain direction of the mortise piece: the wedges should be at right angles to it. If they are parallel to the grain, there would be a risk of splitting
Are we in Arkansas, or Tenn? Maybe Texas? Thanks for posting.
This video was filmed in North Carolina, but our school is in Virginia. You're welcome!
Watched the whole Moravian Workbench series at the Video.PopularWoodworking site. Plan to build this myself. How I wish I could get me some lovely Southern Yellow Pine up here in Canada. Love your style, your woodworking technique is inspiring, and makes me want to build stuff and build my hand tool skills.
+Warp I'm glad you enjoyed it! Have you gotten involved on my hand tool woodworking forum? I'm sure you'd love it.
+Wood and Shop No I hadn't but I'll check it out tonight. woodandshop.com/forum/
What kind of accent is that? good work, thanks!
What's the music at 5:30?
Great video, what's the name of the music starting at 5:26?
+anzov1n It's called "Fig for a Kiss" played by Jonathan and Peter Lubeck.
Once again here is another video calling it a Wedged Mortise and Tenon but in actuality, it is just a mortise and tenon with a decorative-looking wedge in the tenon. a True Wedged Mortise is tapered from the back to the face of the finished workpiece the width of the wedge to be used. This is a True Wedge mortise Not the one in this video, here you have just made a mortise and tenon joint with fake wedges. There is a difference.
what a haircut
Both side now marked top, LOL.
Good tips with soft wood. Now do it with Oak.
First
try using metric it is more persise.