Dennis is our past president (Mid South Woodturners Group) and a good friend. He is very well known for his acorn boxes with threaded lids. He's also known for turning really large bowls and art pieces. His jig is one of the easiest to make and use. You did a great job with your's.
Awesome, I was speaking to someone this week who said he was cutting threads in wood with a Jig, I was astounded it was possible (I don't have a lathe (yet)) he tried to explain it but I I couldn't get my head around his explanation, seeing your video cleared everything up for me :-)
Ah! You get the gold star for this one!!! Well done! Very well done. I was hoping to find "this" so I'd not have to spend all that $3-$400 in England!! So, you did your good-est deed for the year. You are indeed a good scout! Thank you. (Steven...M is my wife...)
Great demonstration! Didn't see reference to provide a stop for the depth the threads extend into the box or lid. Necessary to stop cutting at the same place with each pass. I use a one piece 3/4-16 threaded shaft locking collar available from McMaster-Carr to limit the all threads travel into the nut trapped in the vice. Two lock nuts could also be used jammed together as a stop. DLC
Very cool process. Coincidentally I picked up an x-Y vise at a yard sale for a song. At the time I bought it I didn't have a use in mind but it was such a good deal I bought it anyway. And now your video...
As Many of your viewers say, thread chasing is a bit of a dream and to me a dark art, commercial thread machines are expensive as you point out. Your contraption is great and I have started the process of building one, my only set back is trying to source the cutter here in Australia. Love your innovations keep them coming. Kind Regards Steve
MSCDirect will not likely ship outside the US. This supplier has the cutters for less than MSCDirect and states they ship worldwide. May be cheaper to find a Chinese source. www.maritool.com/Cutting-Tools-Keyseat-/-Milling-Cutters-Chamfer-Milling-Cutters-Double-Angle-HSS-Chamfer-Mills/c78_231_237_239_277/index.html Dave.
Enjoyed your video and picked up a few pointers, just made my first threaded box today on a set up i made. My idea was to use the metal lathe as it has gearing to cut any thread. Basically the wood was held in the chuck, and a dremel type unit mounted on the carriage, cutter runs at high speed. I ended up turning the chuck by hand as the lowest speed was to fast. I put the male thread on the lid. After that I was thinking of a way to just use the wood lathe, My idea was the same as yours, interesting, I was thinking mine would be the only one of that kind.
I'd like to make a suggestion to you, about a couple of hacks to your threading setup. First off, this is really cool and very ingenious and I am going to make one in a similar manner. What I am doing is to install a medium strength, compression spring, about 4" long, over the threaded rod - between the 2 nuts that hold it in the vise. The pressure exerted by the spring will force the 2 nuts apart, as you are clamping them in the vise. This will then eliminate any backlash on the threaded rod, allowing you to cut more accurate threads. Don't use a really strong spring as that will make it more difficult to turn the rod. I am also using a piece of 7/8-14 threaded rod instead of 3/4-16. I think that 16 tpi is a bit too fine for some wood thread applications, so 14 tpi is a bit better pitch I think. 8 TPI and 10TPI are both a bit too coarse for wood working unless you had a very large and heavy duty project. Even better would be 12TPI but no one makes an adapter from 1"-8 to 1"-12. I found an adapter from 1"-8 to 7/8-14 on Amazon, it was just delivered today as a matter of fact. It will work good. I have another ordered for 1"-8 to 3/4"-10 but I doubt I'll use it very much. I will also install a metal hand wheel (4" diameter) on the threaded rod to make it easier to turn. It will give me smoother and more consistent rotation. I'll attach it with a key on the rod so I can remove it and move it over to the other rod if need be.
Hi Alan That looks a lot better than hand threading must see if I can get the wife to put it on my Xmas list. Great video as all ways. take care. Y.N.W.A. Paul
Hmm, a good 'cheap' version. I learned on the Klein jig. I make the recess on my lids at 3/8 inch deep, and the tenon is 1/4 inch deep, which, in theory, leaves plenty of room to adjust the shoulder on the base enough to get the threads to line up. Bulls Eye spray lacquer works great on the insides. Smell is gone in a minute or three. Never use a solvent based finish as the smell will never go away.... One would think that the cutter will cut the threads dead parallel. They do that some times, and some times not. I use a six inch long steel rule against both tenon and recess and then eyeball to see if it lines up with the lathe bed, then cut. I use digital calipers to measure the offset needed. I cut lid/recess first, then tenon. Tenon is 0.06 bigger.
Alan ... Thanks for the video and parts list. I do some hand-chasing (Sam Angelo got me hooked), but I do most of my work in domestic hardwoods that don't take hand-chased threads very well. This approach looks like an ideal solution to the problem!
In the UK GWR Fasteners can supply the threaded rod and five nuts for about £20. Got mine and now for the brst part, building it. Thanks for the ideas. By the way, my small Axminster lathe came complete with the 3/4 to 1" adapter so they may sell it.
Great video never thought of using X Y vice for thread chasing only for turning small metal components on my wood lathe. Another project for me to do one day.
Used Minwax wood restorer/hardner on apple with the Sorby kit. Got pretty good threads with my limited talent but the cure time odor should occur out of doors. After it cures no odor...
Good morning, nice jig. Could you tell me the name of the cutter used in the router and which website to find it on? Thank you for sharing your knowledge..👍🏾👍🏾
Nice one Alan. That looked a good thread for a long one. Probably half that will suffice when you make your boxes. That was one of the changes I made as my first boxes took for ever to open. :-) I had 7 threads. Good unit though and good fun. Thanks.
My metal monkey friends say that 1 and a half threads should be sufficient. But what do they know about wood? I'm planning on 3 to allow for adjustments until I have more practice. Alan
Aye, one and a half threads would be a bit lean for wood. Three threads, I now find ideal myself. I have passed the link to your video on to a few friends interested on threading. Thanks again.
Alan, I was able to put your jig together and just finished my first successful threading. Thanks for the info. One or two small tips: I found that the allthread has a lot of slop, to fix this I wrapped the threads with 2-3 layers of pipe thread tape, no slop now. Instead of mag-locks I just side up the tail stock and lock it in place. I also bought some fittings for a 3/4-10 allthread and will try that for a coarser thread on larger boxes and urns.
Just an after thought you can take some of the play out of the chuck thread .buy putting a spring between the chuck adaptor and thread nut. it will take some of the backlash out.
Don't know if it would solve problems with the Harbor Freight vise, but this guy sells a 'Correction Bracket Kit' that might be worth a look: ruclips.net/video/e1TYMpf_FPg/видео.html
I suppose this works best if the center height of the all thread is the same as the lathe. But I'm also thinking that it does not need to be spot on. Am I correct in that assumption ? I have a jet 18/40 and I see no reason why this would not work if the vice has a thicker platform.
Most important is that it advances parallel to the lathe axis. Since you are cutting a round object without calculating exactly where things are, you will not notice the difference except on a very small diameter(that you are unlikely to cut). It would limit the diameter you can deal with. Alan
Hey, I liked your demonstration a lot. I was thinking of making something similar. Did you want such a fine thread on your piece. I was thinking of just using a 1X8tpi threaded rod which is a rougher thread than the 16 you're using and since my chuck is 1x8tpi I wouldn't need an adapter. Just curious why you didn't go with a rougher threaded screw.
I wasn't watching whole video so I don't know if you addressed this, but you can avoid backlash of the nuts holding the lathe chuck, by just gently hitting one of the nuts with a hammer while they are not fully tightened.
My understanding is that any machine has backlash or else parts would not move and that it can only be minimized. But, thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for how it can be implemented. Alan
Question for you Alan. How do you align the center line of your threaded rod with the cutter? Do the center lines have to match or can the rod be higher/lower than the cutter?
Ideally, the center would exactly match the spindle axis. However, as long as the axis of the chuck on the rod is parallel with the spindle axis, you're okay. The only minus is that the minimum diameter that you can thread is larger. Notice that I said the chuck axis instead the rod axis. As long as they are parallel is does not matter if left, right, up, or down. same impact. The larger issue is if the axes are skew, meaning they are at an angle to each other. Then threads are cut deeper on one side than the other.
I will take some pictures of my efforts to date. I did post a box on FB. I used a collet to hold a straight cutter router bit in the lathe, I mounted an indexer on a cross slide, the indexer holds a collect that holds my carving head spindle which matches my lathe chuck threads. the process is similar to threading except I remove portions of the threads on each part. I'm still learning but it is important to have the mating parts threaded and aligned BEFORE marking and removing threads. I made a ships wheel clamp to fit my chuck so I can control the rotation. I now use it for threading too, I had the chuck unthread from the threading jig once when I didn't have it tight enough. .
Excellent video, Alan. A wonderful 'everyman' project. I did not see the magnets (?) you used to hold the jig down on the lathe bed in the parts list. Did I miss something?
No you did not miss something - I did. I used MagJig 60 from Mag Tools. I would recommend Mag Jig 95 for a better hold. I've upgraded the description to include this. Alan
Incredible!! I have wanted to venture into this arena but haven't done so yet. You have given me the perfect setup and info that I need. Can't wait to get it all set up. Were they some sort of magnet that you put in place to hold the device that holds the chuck and the all thread? Thanks so much.
The design of this jig is brilliantly simple. I was wondering how you would control the spacing, but the all thread takes care of all that for you. I might have to get the parts and give this a try.
I wonder if you could hold the thread cutter in a standard collet chuck. It would probably limit the depth of inside threads, but how much depth do you really need? This is a really neat project, but now I have to buy a new insert for my Nova chuck to convert it from 1 1/4"x8 to 1"x8, bummers.
Yes, if fact the 2nd demo I mentioned had his cutter held in a collet. If I had one already, I'd be good with it. Otherwise, a MT2 collet with drawbar is much less expensive. 1 1/4 vs 1 - Yeh I have the same problem. But there are adapters and inserts. Alan
Very interesting jig Alan. I was going to ask what sort of shank this cutter has, but I think I understand from the description that it is a 3/8" Diam. straight shank, correct? One more question, what RPM is recommended for the cutter?
I'm running it as fast as the lathe will go. The cutter also works in routers and other tools that run much faster. and it is only 3/4 diameter. A machinist could perhaps advise otherwise. Alan
Alan, thanks for the awesome video. I'm trying to design a custom pen with a screw cap. to reduce the thread size to the diameters I need, would it be as simple as swapping out the allthread with the size one needs? or does the cutter need to change as well?
you are correct on pitch. Swapping the allthread is the easy part. However, supporting the wood and chuck from the smaller allthread will be the first challenge. For something the size of a pen, you would need a cutter smaller than the diameter you are cutting for the female threads. That will be your second challenge. Alan
LOL - 'Sloppy Fit Hardware Store'... =) I may have spent a few dollars there in the past... ;-) I was going to say that you should put a runner on the bottom of that vice mounting plate so that it rides on the ways of your lathe and would always be parallel with the bed to make things easier for the future, but saw that there's already on there. Why were you concerned about it being off? Hope you plan on turning that test blank into a box - doesn't look like it'd be too difficult to complete. =)
More money there than you'd like to admit? :) If not in alignment, then the threads would be skew to the box axis, leading to a bad joint between top and bottom. As is, it is not perfect but works fine. When I finish it, it won't take long at all. Alan
Is there a reason you want 16 threads per inch? This seems awfully fine for wood threads. Why not just use 1" x 8 tpi threded rod and nuts? I use 60 degree angle end mills in my metal shop and find them much less expensive on eBay. Excellent idea and video as always. Keep 'em coming.
TPI probably falls into the personal choice category. The second demo used 10 tpi. Comparing the threads, I prefer 16. Your results may vary. I'd love a full range but that is not practical for a non-machinist. Thank you Alan
Amazing tool Alan. I will eventually make one. And, you may have missed Gerald Jensen's reply to your's, replying to john b. It's for a modification to the XY Vise that looks like a "must have" to get rid of the vise problems. There's also a review of the vise at ruclips.net/video/YfzApO4R1bM/видео.html with some tuning tips that may help.
In the video, he said he replaced all the hardware. From appearance and cost, I doubt that he replaced the lead screws. So far, I have replaced the side crank with the largest wood wheel I could fit. I've also wrapped teflon tape on the lead screw - it seems to have removed a lot of slop. May have to replace teflon periodically but it is cheap and easy.
Alan, thank you so much for sharing this tutorial. I have been wanting to try my hand at threading on my lathe for sooo long. Glen in Lufkin Texas.
Dennis is our past president (Mid South Woodturners Group) and a good friend. He is very well known for his acorn boxes with threaded lids. He's also known for turning really large bowls and art pieces. His jig is one of the easiest to make and use. You did a great job with your's.
Please give Dennis my thanks again. It was a break thru.
Alan
Awesome, I was speaking to someone this week who said he was cutting threads in wood with a Jig, I was astounded it was possible (I don't have a lathe (yet)) he tried to explain it but I I couldn't get my head around his explanation, seeing your video cleared everything up for me :-)
Glad to help.
Alan
Thank you very much for sharing. I nearly lost hope, to find an affordable method!
You're welcome!
Ah! You get the gold star for this one!!! Well done! Very well done. I was hoping to find "this" so I'd not have to spend all that $3-$400 in England!! So, you did your good-est deed for the year. You are indeed a good scout! Thank you. (Steven...M is my wife...)
Now you know the specs you should be able to source what you need.
Alan
This one was especially fascinating to watch alan. Looks like a lot of work but another way to do thread chasing that I’ve never seen.
Then you did not attend Dennis' demo at the symposium.
He filled in the blanks for me.
Alan
Great demonstration! Didn't see reference to provide a stop for the depth the threads extend into the box or lid. Necessary to stop cutting at the same place with each pass. I use a one piece 3/4-16 threaded shaft locking collar available from McMaster-Carr to limit the all threads travel into the nut trapped in the vice. Two lock nuts could also be used jammed together as a stop. DLC
Great tip!
Alan
I thoroughly enjoyed and learned about threading. I looked for the tool list but didn't see. I would like to try it myself.
Time to watch the video again. Parts list is in the description.
Alan
Very cool process. Coincidentally I picked up an x-Y vise at a yard sale for a song. At the time I bought it I didn't have a use in mind but it was such a good deal I bought it anyway. And now your video...
Perfect = like it was meant to be. :)
Alan
As Many of your viewers say, thread chasing is a bit of a dream and to me a dark art, commercial thread machines are expensive as you point out. Your contraption is great and I have started the process of building one, my only set back is trying to source the cutter here in Australia. Love your innovations keep them coming.
Kind Regards
Steve
I would think a 60 degree HSS cutter should be standard across continents. But yes, a local vendor would save a lot on shipping.
Alan
Thanks Alan could you suggest a US supplier that ships internationally
Please check with the suppliers that I identified. Don't know their policies.
Alan
MSCDirect will not likely ship outside the US. This supplier has the cutters for less than MSCDirect and states they ship worldwide. May be cheaper to find a Chinese source.
www.maritool.com/Cutting-Tools-Keyseat-/-Milling-Cutters-Chamfer-Milling-Cutters-Double-Angle-HSS-Chamfer-Mills/c78_231_237_239_277/index.html
Dave.
Thanks Heaps will give them a go
This is an excellent video. You explained every step clearly and answered any questions I can think of. Thanks for the great job!
Glad it was helpful!
Alan
Way to go Alan! I’m still trying to get the hang of the thread chasers. One day I’ll get it! Thanks for sharing.
Whichever works is great.
I'll like being able to thread common wood.
Alan
Enjoyed your video and picked up a few pointers, just made my first threaded box today on a set up i made. My idea was to use the metal lathe as it has gearing to cut any thread. Basically the wood was held in the chuck, and a dremel type unit mounted on the carriage, cutter runs at high speed. I ended up turning the chuck by hand as the lowest speed was to fast. I put the male thread on the lid. After that I was thinking of a way to just use the wood lathe, My idea was the same as yours, interesting, I was thinking mine would be the only one
of that kind.
Machining items from wood or metal have been around for Many, Many years.
Rarely is there anything truly new. mainly used in new contexts.
Alan
The missing link is solved. Great job!
Best regards, Richard
You are welcome
I'd like to make a suggestion to you, about a couple of hacks to your threading setup. First off, this is really cool and very ingenious and I am going to make one in a similar manner. What I am doing is to install a medium strength, compression spring, about 4" long, over the threaded rod - between the 2 nuts that hold it in the vise. The pressure exerted by the spring will force the 2 nuts apart, as you are clamping them in the vise. This will then eliminate any backlash on the threaded rod, allowing you to cut more accurate threads. Don't use a really strong spring as that will make it more difficult to turn the rod.
I am also using a piece of 7/8-14 threaded rod instead of 3/4-16. I think that 16 tpi is a bit too fine for some wood thread applications, so 14 tpi is a bit better pitch I think. 8 TPI and 10TPI are both a bit too coarse for wood working unless you had a very large and heavy duty project. Even better would be 12TPI but no one makes an adapter from 1"-8 to 1"-12. I found an adapter from 1"-8 to 7/8-14 on Amazon, it was just delivered today as a matter of fact. It will work good. I have another ordered for 1"-8 to 3/4"-10 but I doubt I'll use it very much.
I will also install a metal hand wheel (4" diameter) on the threaded rod to make it easier to turn. It will give me smoother and more consistent rotation. I'll attach it with a key on the rod so I can remove it and move it over to the other rod if need be.
Sounds like a great solution to backlash.
You nailed the issue with TPI. Glad you found the appropriate adapters.
Alan
Explained very well. The set up is just Fantastic.
Thank for sharing
It works.
Happy New Year
Alan
Hi Alan That looks a lot better than hand threading must see if I can get the wife to put it on
my Xmas list. Great video as all ways. take care. Y.N.W.A. Paul
Don't rule out hand chasing but this will get you over the hurdle.
Alan
Hmm, a good 'cheap' version. I learned on the Klein jig. I make the recess on my lids at 3/8 inch deep, and the tenon is 1/4 inch deep, which, in theory, leaves plenty of room to adjust the shoulder on the base enough to get the threads to line up. Bulls Eye spray lacquer works great on the insides. Smell is gone in a minute or three. Never use a solvent based finish as the smell will never go away.... One would think that the cutter will cut the threads dead parallel. They do that some times, and some times not. I use a six inch long steel rule against both tenon and recess and then eyeball to see if it lines up with the lathe bed, then cut. I use digital calipers to measure the offset needed. I cut lid/recess first, then tenon. Tenon is 0.06 bigger.
Good Points.
Alan
Thats such a lovely simple straight forward idea, love it!
Thank you Philipp
Merry Christmas
Alan
Cool setup! I want to try this one! Thread chasing is a dream situation for me! Thanks for sharing this one!
A dream within reach now. It took me years.
Alan
Alan ... Thanks for the video and parts list. I do some hand-chasing (Sam Angelo got me hooked), but I do most of my work in domestic hardwoods that don't take hand-chased threads very well. This approach looks like an ideal solution to the problem!
You are welcome. Sounds like your plan going forward is similar to mine.
Alan
In the UK GWR Fasteners can supply the threaded rod and five nuts for about £20. Got mine and now for the brst part, building it. Thanks for the ideas. By the way, my small Axminster lathe came complete with the 3/4 to 1" adapter so they may sell it.
Thanks for your research.
Alan
Great video never thought of using X Y vice for thread chasing only for turning small metal components on my wood lathe. Another project for me to do one day.
Sooner than Later?
Alan
Beautiful job Alan! Понравился способ нанесения резьбы, возьму на заметку !
Thank you Val
Alan
Used Minwax wood restorer/hardner on apple with the Sorby kit. Got pretty good threads with my limited talent but the cure time odor should occur out of doors. After it cures no odor...
Good morning, nice jig. Could you tell me the name of the cutter used in the router and which website to find it on? Thank you for sharing your knowledge..👍🏾👍🏾
It is the 6th item in the parts list in the description.
Alan
Nice one Alan. That looked a good thread for a long one. Probably half that will suffice when you make your boxes. That was one of the changes I made as my first boxes took for ever to open. :-)
I had 7 threads. Good unit though and good fun. Thanks.
My metal monkey friends say that 1 and a half threads should be sufficient. But what do they know about wood? I'm planning on 3 to allow for adjustments until I have more practice.
Alan
Aye, one and a half threads would be a bit lean for wood. Three threads, I now find ideal myself. I have passed the link to your video on to a few friends interested on threading. Thanks again.
Alan, I was able to put your jig together and just finished my first successful threading. Thanks for the info. One or two small tips: I found that the allthread has a lot of slop, to fix this I wrapped the threads with 2-3 layers of pipe thread tape, no slop now. Instead of mag-locks I just side up the tail stock and lock it in place. I also bought some fittings for a 3/4-10 allthread and will try that for a coarser thread on larger boxes and urns.
Sounds like you caught the bug. Great
Alan
Just an after thought you can take some of the play out of the chuck thread .buy putting a spring between the chuck adaptor and thread nut. it will take some of the backlash out.
The backlash that I'm worried about is in the XY Vise. I'll look to see if I can get a spring in there.
Thanks.
Alan
Don't know if it would solve problems with the Harbor Freight vise, but this guy sells a 'Correction Bracket Kit' that might be worth a look: ruclips.net/video/e1TYMpf_FPg/видео.html
Thanks Gerald, That seems like a great modification.
Fascinating idea and execution. Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome
Alan
Pretty slick, Alan!
It works for me. :)
Alan
absolutely outstanding! Thank you. Ordering parts tomorrow..........
That's about what I did. :)
Alan
I suppose this works best if the center height of the all thread is the same as the lathe. But I'm also thinking that it does not need to be spot on. Am I correct in that assumption ? I have a jet 18/40 and I see no reason why this would not work if the vice has a thicker platform.
Most important is that it advances parallel to the lathe axis.
Since you are cutting a round object without calculating exactly where things are, you will not notice the difference except on a very small diameter(that you are unlikely to cut). It would limit the diameter you can deal with.
Alan
Hey, I liked your demonstration a lot. I was thinking of making something similar. Did you want such a fine thread on your piece. I was thinking of just using a 1X8tpi threaded rod which is a rougher thread than the 16 you're using and since my chuck is 1x8tpi I wouldn't need an adapter. Just curious why you didn't go with a rougher threaded screw.
Since I'm 1.25x8tpi, this was the first setup that I could manage, I've subsequently adapted to a 1x8 that you suggest.
Go fer it.
Alan
Thank you!
You forgot the part about adding thin CA after you cut the threads and then screw it together. Nice video!
LOL
Alan
Great video, Alan! Thanks for the parts list.
Not a problem.
Enjoy
Alan
I wasn't watching whole video so I don't know if you addressed this, but you can avoid backlash of the nuts holding the lathe chuck, by just gently hitting one of the nuts with a hammer while they are not fully tightened.
My understanding is that any machine has backlash or else parts would not move and that it can only be minimized.
But, thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for how it can be implemented.
Alan
There a lot of wobble in the all thread and nuts. Any ideas on how to tighten the tolerances? Thread tape?
Teflon tape and longer nuts both help. Use connectors if possible.
Alan
This type of jig could be used without a lathe.
A drill, clamped in place, and your vice jig would work... interesting. Thanks for posting.
that would be true. :)
Alan
What mini lathe are you using in this setup? I have a Jet JWL-1014, and there's not enough room under the vise for a mounting board.
Rikon 70-050VS, a 12 x 16 lathe. it has an extra 1 of radius than yours
Alan
nice, i saw this process called thread milling on a vertical mill. this reminds me a lot of it. i was baffled when i saw the process
This would be a "horizontal" mill. not that much different.
Alan
Question for you Alan. How do you align the center line of your threaded rod with the cutter? Do the center lines have to match or can the rod be higher/lower than the cutter?
Ideally, the center would exactly match the spindle axis. However, as long as the axis of the chuck on the rod is parallel with the spindle axis, you're okay. The only minus is that the minimum diameter that you can thread is larger. Notice that I said the chuck axis instead the rod axis. As long as they are parallel is does not matter if left, right, up, or down. same impact.
The larger issue is if the axes are skew, meaning they are at an angle to each other. Then threads are cut deeper on one side than the other.
Well done Alan. Now that you have threads the next challenge is to rig the jig to make it "bayonet" style for quarter turn closure.
Well Bert. You're just going to have to show me how!
Alan
I will take some pictures of my efforts to date. I did post a box on FB.
I used a collet to hold a straight cutter router bit in the lathe, I mounted an indexer on a cross slide, the indexer holds a collect that holds my carving head spindle which matches my lathe chuck threads. the process is similar to threading except I remove portions of the threads on each part. I'm still learning but it is important to have the mating parts threaded and aligned BEFORE marking and removing threads. I made a ships wheel clamp to fit my chuck so I can control the rotation. I now use it for threading too, I had the chuck unthread from the threading jig once when I didn't have it tight enough. .
Excellent idea thanks for posting this!
You're welcome. I try to pass on great ideas as I come upon them.
Alan
Thank you
You are welcome Andrew
Alan
GOOD INFORMATION, PRESENTED WELL. THANKS FOR SHARING.
You are welcome Gene
Alan
Excellent video, Alan. A wonderful 'everyman' project. I did not see the magnets (?) you used to hold the jig down on the lathe bed in the parts list. Did I miss something?
No you did not miss something - I did. I used MagJig 60 from Mag Tools. I would recommend Mag Jig 95 for a better hold. I've upgraded the description to include this.
Alan
Excellent video. Can I ask what type of cutter it is that you are using?
May I refer you to the description that accompanies the video. I try to put that information there.
Alan
Very clever, nice threads.
Thank you Tony.
Alan
Excellent tool, master.
Gracias Osvaldo
Alan
Incredible!! I have wanted to venture into this arena but haven't done so yet. You have given me the perfect setup and info that I need. Can't wait to get it all set up. Were they some sort of magnet that you put in place to hold the device that holds the chuck and the all thread? Thanks so much.
Yes, I used MagJig 60 from Mag Tools. I would recommend Mag Jig 95 for a better hold. I've upgraded the description to include this.
Alan
The design of this jig is brilliantly simple. I was wondering how you would control the spacing, but the all thread takes care of all that for you. I might have to get the parts and give this a try.
You are correct. They key component is the all thread followed by how to mount a chuck to the all thread.
Worth doing.
Alan
I wonder if you could hold the thread cutter in a standard collet chuck. It would probably limit the depth of inside threads, but how much depth do you really need? This is a really neat project, but now I have to buy a new insert for my Nova chuck to convert it from 1 1/4"x8 to 1"x8, bummers.
Yes, if fact the 2nd demo I mentioned had his cutter held in a collet. If I had one already, I'd be good with it. Otherwise, a MT2 collet with drawbar is much less expensive.
1 1/4 vs 1 - Yeh I have the same problem. But there are adapters and inserts.
Alan
Very interesting jig Alan. I was going to ask what sort of shank this cutter has, but I think I understand from the description that it is a 3/8" Diam. straight shank, correct?
One more question, what RPM is recommended for the cutter?
I'm running it as fast as the lathe will go. The cutter also works in routers and other tools that run much faster. and it is only 3/4 diameter.
A machinist could perhaps advise otherwise.
Alan
Thanks for a great how to video. I will be trying that out soon. Did I miss where you got the magnetic fasteners used to hold jig in place?
I used MagJig 60 from Mag Tools. I would recommend Mag Jig 95 for a better hold. I've upgraded the description to include this.
Alan
Alan, thanks for the awesome video. I'm trying to design a custom pen with a screw cap. to reduce the thread size to the diameters I need, would it be as simple as swapping out the allthread with the size one needs? or does the cutter need to change as well?
you are correct on pitch. Swapping the allthread is the easy part. However, supporting the wood and chuck from the smaller allthread will be the first challenge.
For something the size of a pen, you would need a cutter smaller than the diameter you are cutting for the female threads. That will be your second challenge.
Alan
@@AsWoodTurns thanks for the reply. something I'm still thinking about...
I made the jig and it worked well just sitting on a board. Would you share the dimensions of the base you used?
About 1.5" wider than the vise and about 4" longer to accommodate the magnetic clamps.
Alan
LOL - 'Sloppy Fit Hardware Store'... =) I may have spent a few dollars there in the past... ;-)
I was going to say that you should put a runner on the bottom of that vice mounting plate so that it rides on the ways of your lathe and would always be parallel with the bed to make things easier for the future, but saw that there's already on there. Why were you concerned about it being off?
Hope you plan on turning that test blank into a box - doesn't look like it'd be too difficult to complete. =)
More money there than you'd like to admit? :)
If not in alignment, then the threads would be skew to the box axis, leading to a bad joint between top and bottom. As is, it is not perfect but works fine.
When I finish it, it won't take long at all.
Alan
I may have missed this, but you mentioned bit is 3/8" diameter, but what is the angle of the bit. thanks
Most threads use a 60 degree angel
Alan
Awesome! Thank you
It works.
Alan
Excellent gotta build one.
Not difficult. Go for it.
Alan
Subscribed. Loved it, going to HF for parts soon lol
:) Sorry your comment came during a RUclips changeover and I did not see it promptly.
@@AsWoodTurns haha, you have made up for it 100x over. In 10 months I have been entertained time after time, and you never disappoint!
Is there a reason you want 16 threads per inch? This seems awfully fine for wood threads. Why not just use 1" x 8 tpi threded rod and nuts? I use 60 degree angle end mills in my metal shop and find them much less expensive on eBay. Excellent idea and video as always. Keep 'em coming.
TPI probably falls into the personal choice category. The second demo used 10 tpi. Comparing the threads, I prefer 16.
Your results may vary. I'd love a full range but that is not practical for a non-machinist.
Thank you
Alan
I forgot to ask, what RPM is the cutter turning at?
As fast as my mini lathe goes. probably around 2,000 rpm.
Alan
This is really good. Thanks
You are welcome
Alan
what about stabilize the wood first I use a lot of walnut ???
Stabilizing is a definite option to be explored.
Alan
hi where did the cutter come from?
aussiman77181 MSC Direct.com
I second Derek's response.
Alan
È veramente interessante adesso che ti ho rubato il segreto anch'io ho modo di eseguire tutto questo ti saluto e buona giornata
Si, you can
Alan
this is called thread milling, a similar process is used to make odd screw forms on a metal lathe
Thanks for adding that bit.
Alan
Amazing man.
Glad you think so!
THANKS .
You are welcome.
Alan
Enjoyed!!!!
Great - Do you want to try?
Alan
Excellent
Thank you
Alan
Thank you for sharing great tips 👍🏼
You are welcome Tomas
Alan
I found it with a simple click.
Excellent
Alan
Amazing tool Alan. I will eventually make one. And, you may have missed Gerald Jensen's reply to your's, replying to john b. It's for a modification to the XY Vise that looks like a "must have" to get rid of the vise problems. There's also a review of the vise at ruclips.net/video/YfzApO4R1bM/видео.html with some tuning tips that may help.
In the video, he said he replaced all the hardware. From appearance and cost, I doubt that he replaced the lead screws.
So far, I have replaced the side crank with the largest wood wheel I could fit. I've also wrapped teflon tape on the lead screw - it seems to have removed a lot of slop. May have to replace teflon periodically but it is cheap and easy.