I have been thinking of doing a rough pre-carving of the thread before putting it into the thread box. Not going quite as far as Wood by wrigth and carving the thread to final dimensions but getting rid of some of the waste with easier to sharpen tools. Also, nice to see that the Scandinavian woodworkers on YT watches eachothers content.
Hello Petter, i've been thinking about same or similar ideas with the 'pre-cutting' but skipped it because of this: it would be difficult to catch the right place to start the dowel with the dye. hope these words are understandable. Do you have an idea in mind how to solve it?
@@littleforest My thought has been to use a blade sticking into a hole with the same diameter as the dowel and at the same angle the finished threads would be, basically what you did in your video on making the initial tap. Then I would chop into that cut a little bit from both sides with a chisel and possibly go as close to the full depth I could manage at the start end of the thread.
Oh oui, c'est vrais. J'imagine un camera tout en bois pour faire le filme. Peut être en bois de noiyé, comme les vieux appareils foto des temps passés. Fabriqué qq par d'autre que en Chine peut être... Un vraiment bel appareil. Merci pour cette inspiration.
Wow I have watched since forever when you started with some spring plate steel and paper drawings to make the initial pitch cutting dowel. Now you have this refined screw box and a matching tap setup. Very well done.
A joy to watch your videos. Your workshop makes a great backdrop in the videos as well. Always inspiring and I admire your imagination to keep coming up with great ideas. Well done. One Handed Maker - Australia
Great results! Are there any plans for the bench and for the thread cutter introduced at 3:25? Also, what is the wood species that produces the best results for you?
No, there are no plans for these projects - i prefer to work free and follow the flow. I really like birch wood - it is easy to work, beautiful and long resting. That is waht has been used here for wooden threads in workbenches in the older days.
If no birch is available for you, i may add something: beside the wood to be hard, it is important that it is most possible uniform -> closed pores and possibly less intensive year-rings: Beach and Maple for example would be perfect but for example no Oak or Ash.
So, have you jettisoned the earlier dowel makers in favor of this plane method? At 3:20 it is clear the two screws differ. Which profile is the result of the adapted method? Did this adapted method require a new tap and a different profile on the cutter since the pitch has been reduced to 17mm?
Hello :-) -> Yes -> The one with the lower pitch -> I made al new. The cutter could maybe have been reused but i made one of better steel. Hope i could help you.
Yes, it is bit more simple, one blade only (plus pre-cutter). This setting feats well to the new design of the screw. I made may trials to get the best possible tool, but did not film the process (to not burst the time input ;-). But basically it is not much different than my first die.
I turn small pill boxes on my wood lathes. Watching you cut the threads on the shaft, I was saying to myself, he is taking way too big of a bite. I take maybe 4 or 5 passes to get my 16tpi threads cut.
Hello Robohippy :-) On a lathe it might be a good idea - but with my tools it would mean, that i need a own tool with own thread for each pass. 4-5 passes for 16tpi would be maybe 20 passes for my big screws - 20 tools - hmm, i like my one tool solution ;-)
Hmm, I would worry about lots of tear out. One wool with adjustable depth of cut should work. Not all woods are suitable for thread chasing. Boxwood is ideal, but finding any quantity would be difficult, and expensive. First wood that comes to mind for this type of threading is sugar/hard maple. Is that what you are using?
@robohippy Yes, you are right, tear out is the challenge in screw making. Your point is regularly mentioned in the comments. Till now there has not been any working idea, adjustable depth does not work, or at least, i would not know how. If you watch my other movies about screw making, specially 'making the screwbox, you'll see, that i have tried to make at least two passes. And you'll also understand what difficulties a 'more than one pass' tool brings with it. So, it is not impossible..
I forgot, for the wood (read the text under my videos, everything is mentioned there :) I imagine Boxwood or hard maple would do the thing. But he tools should be made of similar wood or harder/stronger. I used local wood from my own forests. Birch has been the best outcome. There is a piece of maple waiting in the storage to be tried - a rare wood here, which rarely grows bigger than a bush. To my experience, there is no need to choose harder woods than birch for example. I have investigated many old workbenches before making my own. Here, they all have a birch screw. Some of them have been in heavy use and the screw looked very thin, with lot of missing pieces and lot's of air in between screw and bolt. But, they do the job - they fix strongly. It's amazing, a metal screw looking like this would not work well, but with wood it goes. If you come to a working idea about several passes with selfmade hand tools - i would be very interested!
I don't usually read the "more" parts, unless I am looking for a manufacturer. I do know of some who make threads by using a router, which is stationary, and the spindle blank is on a screw thread feed thing so that as you crank it along, it matches the threads you want. It is not hand tools, but I can see using that as an option. Birch, to me, is a wood that is not too hard or too soft, and generally fairly easy to work. I do like how you soak it in oil first before cutting the threads.
would you sell the screw boxes? i would love to make one. but i know i am not technically minded enough to make my own. i suspect there are many others who are in the same boat as me.
Hello Daniel! I have been thinking of it, but till now, it did not came into reality. And right now, i just bought a new (am very old) place to live which needs some hands on before the next winter - i will be quite busy this summer. But in principal, if there is time, yes, i could imagine! Maybe i could find time next winter, but would not like to promise it until am am sure. Just to think about it: To make the screwbox is quite a big job and it would turn out quite expensive. So, if you just need it to make one, two screws, i think it makes more sence to bye the ready screws. You can still find some following the link in the video description. So far, a best springtime to you :-)
Hello Victor, Yes, they definitively help! I guess, there is no better or worth but, like so often, there are pros and cons: As more liquid, as faster it penetrates the wood but it takes longer to harden. I have tried many oils (mostly linseed oils; raw, boiled and stand but also tung and parafin). There are real differences not only between the kind of oil, but also between the same kind from different brands. Also the wood species makes a difference. So just linseed oil should work, but if you want to go deeeper into it, than some experiments will help..
@@littleforest Thanks for the answer! I thought now that maybe even hot water would help. I'll try with linseed oil. Maybe it's good to use the same one that will be applied as a finish.
Yes, i thought so too. I made different new tools, the one shown has one blade only, plus pre-cutter. I've been just curious to try different ideas out. It works well like this, one blade seems to be enough. Maybe also because of developed soaking, less deep cut, lower pitch (the blade comes closer to 90° to the grain. Maybe some other causes i did not figure out yet.
Absolutely beautiful! These are honestly the best crafted wooden screws I have seen! Did you follow plans or do some reading in order to make them, or was it just trial and error? If it was using plans would you be willing to share where you got them? Thanks!
Hello :-) Lot of research has been made before - it took me one whole winter to figure out how to do it; and winters are quite long up here. No, i did not find ready plans for it, but have put all the information plus some own inventions together. Did you watch my other videos about screw-making?
@@littleforest Thanks for responding! Wow that sounds like some dedication. I did watch your other videos (which were beautifully made) and thought they were a wee bit light on written detail for someone trying to recreate what you did. I think someone needs to write the definitive "History and Construction of Wooden Screws" book ;)
Oh yes, good idea! I would have been happy to read it before starting. Anyways, i hope, you are getting closer to your own screws. Enjoy the way there and than the goal ;-)
Wooden screws have been in use of humanity for centuries, before iron ones overtook the stage. Maybe there are bit less strong then iron ones, yes. But if used carefully they do well and can be repaired easily. Mine are in use now since about two years and the work perfectly.
Wow thanks absolutely amazing. I appreciate your videos.!!! I wanted to buy the set from dieter Schmidt but it's 1500 euros 😮 I'll try to make my own. Thank you for sharing. I subscribed 😁 have you tried with oak?
Oh, thanx! Oak might not be a good wood for this. It should be a dence one with closed pores, like maple, beech, birch... Good luck with your screw :-)
Great update. I am really itching to try it and replace a battered wood screw in my used bench. Is there any table of woods that are suitable or unsiutable? I was thinking of using a very hard wood like Hornbeam *Carpinus betulus* but not sure if its a good idea or not. Keep up the good work, love your videos.
If i would have white Beach (Carpinus betula) with the right dimensions available here i would use it. As a rule of thumb: hardwoods with close pores are suitable. Take into account, that hard wood goes heavy onto the tools. They should be of harder material than the thread. But this might not be a problem if you want to just make one screw for your workbench. Good luck with it :-)
Here you find of my SCREWS ON SALE:
www.etsy.com/de/shop/LittleForestSuomi?ref=seller-platform-mcnav
Super crisp threads! The pre-cutter seems like a great addition. Neat trick for checking roundness of handplaned dowels too. Thank you!
I have been thinking of doing a rough pre-carving of the thread before putting it into the thread box. Not going quite as far as Wood by wrigth and carving the thread to final dimensions but getting rid of some of the waste with easier to sharpen tools. Also, nice to see that the Scandinavian woodworkers on YT watches eachothers content.
Hello Petter, i've been thinking about same or similar ideas with the 'pre-cutting' but skipped it because of this: it would be difficult to catch the right place to start the dowel with the dye. hope these words are understandable. Do you have an idea in mind how to solve it?
@@littleforest My thought has been to use a blade sticking into a hole with the same diameter as the dowel and at the same angle the finished threads would be, basically what you did in your video on making the initial tap. Then I would chop into that cut a little bit from both sides with a chisel and possibly go as close to the full depth I could manage at the start end of the thread.
Gratulation zu diesem Filmchen - eine gelungene Dokumentation und schön anzuschauern . . .
C'est beau. Beautiful. La technique n'aurait jamais dû aller plus loin.
Oh oui, c'est vrais. J'imagine un camera tout en bois pour faire le filme. Peut être en bois de noiyé, comme les vieux appareils foto des temps passés. Fabriqué qq par d'autre que en Chine peut être... Un vraiment bel appareil.
Merci pour cette inspiration.
Wow I have watched since forever when you started with some spring plate steel and paper drawings to make the initial pitch cutting dowel. Now you have this refined screw box and a matching tap setup. Very well done.
Beautifully done! Greetings from a German wood turner. "Drechsler Norbert Pauli"
My dear friend, you are a time millionarie. I appreciate your work and that you showed us this.
Amazing video, you are master of your craft friend 👍
A joy to watch your videos.
Your workshop makes a great backdrop in the videos as well.
Always inspiring and I admire your imagination to keep coming up with great ideas.
Well done.
One Handed Maker - Australia
Oh, thanx!
Great results!
Are there any plans for the bench and for the thread cutter introduced at 3:25?
Also, what is the wood species that produces the best results for you?
No, there are no plans for these projects - i prefer to work free and follow the flow.
I really like birch wood - it is easy to work, beautiful and long resting. That is waht has been used here for wooden threads in workbenches in the older days.
If no birch is available for you, i may add something: beside the wood to be hard, it is important that it is most possible uniform -> closed pores and possibly less intensive year-rings:
Beach and Maple for example would be perfect but for example no Oak or Ash.
Beautifully cut threads!
Amazing and hypnotic, very beautiful
Beautiful work there!
nice work! I am trying to hand carve a pair of big screws right now. working well so far on the first one.
Super cool
Superb screwology
So, have you jettisoned the earlier dowel makers in favor of this plane method?
At 3:20 it is clear the two screws differ. Which profile is the result of the adapted method?
Did this adapted method require a new tap and a different profile on the cutter since the pitch has been reduced to 17mm?
Hello :-)
-> Yes
-> The one with the lower pitch
-> I made al new. The cutter could maybe have been reused but i made one of better steel.
Hope i could help you.
👌
An absolute treat to watch, incredible craftsmanship, thank you very much for sharing🙌🤘🙌
Great video! Would you be willing to provide a drawing to build your screw box and tap? Thank you!
To be honest, i did not make many drawings myself. The only ones i made are shown in my videos - so, take a close look :-)
Hi, looks like a newer simpler die. Do you have a video about making it?
Yes, it is bit more simple, one blade only (plus pre-cutter). This setting feats well to the new design of the screw.
I made may trials to get the best possible tool, but did not film the process (to not burst the time input ;-). But basically it is not much different than my first die.
I turn small pill boxes on my wood lathes. Watching you cut the threads on the shaft, I was saying to myself, he is taking way too big of a bite. I take maybe 4 or 5 passes to get my 16tpi threads cut.
Hello Robohippy :-)
On a lathe it might be a good idea - but with my tools it would mean, that i need a own tool with own thread for each pass. 4-5 passes for 16tpi would be maybe 20 passes for my big screws - 20 tools - hmm, i like my one tool solution ;-)
Hmm, I would worry about lots of tear out. One wool with adjustable depth of cut should work. Not all woods are suitable for thread chasing. Boxwood is ideal, but finding any quantity would be difficult, and expensive. First wood that comes to mind for this type of threading is sugar/hard maple. Is that what you are using?
@robohippy Yes, you are right, tear out is the challenge in screw making.
Your point is regularly mentioned in the comments. Till now there has not been any working idea, adjustable depth does not work, or at least, i would not know how.
If you watch my other movies about screw making, specially 'making the screwbox, you'll see, that i have tried to make at least two passes. And you'll also understand what difficulties a 'more than one pass' tool brings with it.
So, it is not impossible..
I forgot, for the wood (read the text under my videos, everything is mentioned there :)
I imagine Boxwood or hard maple would do the thing. But he tools should be made of similar wood or harder/stronger.
I used local wood from my own forests. Birch has been the best outcome. There is a piece of maple waiting in the storage to be tried - a rare wood here, which rarely grows bigger than a bush.
To my experience, there is no need to choose harder woods than birch for example.
I have investigated many old workbenches before making my own. Here, they all have a birch screw. Some of them have been in heavy use and the screw looked very thin, with lot of missing pieces and lot's of air in between screw and bolt. But, they do the job - they fix strongly. It's amazing, a metal screw looking like this would not work well, but with wood it goes.
If you come to a working idea about several passes with selfmade hand tools - i would be very interested!
I don't usually read the "more" parts, unless I am looking for a manufacturer. I do know of some who make threads by using a router, which is stationary, and the spindle blank is on a screw thread feed thing so that as you crank it along, it matches the threads you want. It is not hand tools, but I can see using that as an option. Birch, to me, is a wood that is not too hard or too soft, and generally fairly easy to work. I do like how you soak it in oil first before cutting the threads.
Achei o máximo teu trabalho. Parabéns.
Это самый лучший способ ютубе !!
00:00 intro
02:45 Experiments
03:47 The Screw
05:54 the bolt
07:13 pull back plate
oh, thanx - good idea! Your chapters have been added to the video :-)
would you sell the screw boxes? i would love to make one. but i know i am not technically minded enough to make my own. i suspect there are many others who are in the same boat as me.
Hello Daniel!
I have been thinking of it, but till now, it did not came into reality. And right now, i just bought a new (am very old) place to live which needs some hands on before the next winter - i will be quite busy this summer. But in principal, if there is time, yes, i could imagine! Maybe i could find time next winter, but would not like to promise it until am am sure.
Just to think about it: To make the screwbox is quite a big job and it would turn out quite expensive. So, if you just need it to make one, two screws, i think it makes more sence to bye the ready screws.
You can still find some following the link in the video description.
So far, a best springtime to you :-)
you put cilinder wood inside diferent oils, this make wood less hard?
Great job and beautiful videos! Did you come to any conclusions about the oils? They help? One more than the other?
Hello Victor,
Yes, they definitively help! I guess, there is no better or worth but, like so often, there are pros and cons: As more liquid, as faster it penetrates the wood but it takes longer to harden. I have tried many oils (mostly linseed oils; raw, boiled and stand but also tung and parafin). There are real differences not only between the kind of oil, but also between the same kind from different brands. Also the wood species makes a difference. So just linseed oil should work, but if you want to go deeeper into it, than some experiments will help..
@@littleforest Thanks for the answer! I thought now that maybe even hot water would help. I'll try with linseed oil. Maybe it's good to use the same one that will be applied as a finish.
hello, have you any sources how to make a kuksakorrectly and how to treat it?
I like this tiny little wooden plane you are using to bring the square wood to round. Did you make it yourself?
It was once a gift from my dad, just for decoration. I added a chisel-blade inside, and it is now a good helper of beauty and practical value :-)
looks better with this pitch on the screw. Do you have two knives on the die?
Yes, i thought so too.
I made different new tools, the one shown has one blade only, plus pre-cutter. I've been just curious to try different ideas out.
It works well like this, one blade seems to be enough. Maybe also because of developed soaking, less deep cut, lower pitch (the blade comes closer to 90° to the grain. Maybe some other causes i did not figure out yet.
Great !
Absolutely beautiful! These are honestly the best crafted wooden screws I have seen! Did you follow plans or do some reading in order to make them, or was it just trial and error? If it was using plans would you be willing to share where you got them? Thanks!
Hello :-)
Lot of research has been made before - it took me one whole winter to figure out how to do it; and winters are quite long up here. No, i did not find ready plans for it, but have put all the information plus some own inventions together.
Did you watch my other videos about screw-making?
@@littleforest Thanks for responding! Wow that sounds like some dedication. I did watch your other videos (which were beautifully made) and thought they were a wee bit light on written detail for someone trying to recreate what you did. I think someone needs to write the definitive "History and Construction of Wooden Screws" book ;)
Oh yes, good idea! I would have been happy to read it before starting.
Anyways, i hope, you are getting closer to your own screws. Enjoy the way there and than the goal ;-)
How well can these fasten? Wood has very low tensile strength.
Wooden screws have been in use of humanity for centuries, before iron ones overtook the stage. Maybe there are bit less strong then iron ones, yes. But if used carefully they do well and can be repaired easily. Mine are in use now since about two years and the work perfectly.
Awesome
Wow thanks absolutely amazing. I appreciate your videos.!!! I wanted to buy the set from dieter Schmidt but it's 1500 euros 😮 I'll try to make my own. Thank you for sharing. I subscribed 😁 have you tried with oak?
Oh, thanx! Oak might not be a good wood for this. It should be a dence one with closed pores, like maple, beech, birch... Good luck with your screw :-)
Nice shop
hey do you own
convex spoke shavers???
just asking
No, i do not have one (yet).
Have a nice sunday!
@@littleforest for not having the right tools And having to think out-of-the-box I give you an A+ nice job nice tutorial thank you
How can I get the devices to make my own screws?
I do not sell the tools. But if it helps, you find a link in the text, where i sell some of my screws. Or then, you can always build your own tools!
Wicked clean! ^^
You actually made an improved screwbox!?
Looks like you added a cutter for cleaner teeth surfaces, does it help with tareout as well?
Good morning!
A clear yes for both questions. Specially for the second one.
👍👍👍👍
Great update! I am looking to make my own wooden screw and was wondering what wood species you used to make the screw? Thanks!
I used birch but made also good experience with Hackberry and Mountain Ash.
Good luck for your own screws!
Hienoa työtä! Oletko Suomesta? 👍🏻🎅🏻🇫🇮
Joo olen. Terveisin Karjalasta!
Great update. I am really itching to try it and replace a battered wood screw in my used bench.
Is there any table of woods that are suitable or unsiutable? I was thinking of using a very hard wood like Hornbeam *Carpinus betulus* but not sure if its a good idea or not.
Keep up the good work, love your videos.
If i would have white Beach (Carpinus betula) with the right dimensions available here i would use it. As a rule of thumb: hardwoods with close pores are suitable.
Take into account, that hard wood goes heavy onto the tools. They should be of harder material than the thread. But this might not be a problem if you want to just make one screw for your workbench. Good luck with it :-)
@@littleforest Thank you. Will try it out and let you know once im done.
Спасибо! Всё просто и понятно.
you should make a pedal lathe, faster and more accurate than hand planer
no lathe no problem 💀
💯💯💯💯💯💯👍🤝
Cutting the thread in 2 or 3 passes may elimat the tear out, I guess.
Good idea, but if you watch close you will check, that it can't work. How will the tool be guided?
Have a nice day :-)
Можно в самом зубе выпилить канавку. Внешняя сторона резца удержит шаг резьбы!
Could have explained more
if interested, check out my other videos, you'll find very detailed ones about screw making - this was just an update
Bruh