Very well done! I am a licensed Auto Mechanic and a former instructor at a local Trade College and your description/demonstration is right on! Could be used as a trade school training video.
I could not agree more. Have similar background, but nowadays work as an automotive journalist for a car mag writing technical articles (along with other stuff) for a living. I do what you do, but with cars and in text, and I live in Sweden. I would be very proud if that description of a cambelt change was my own work. I am looking into buying my first boat, and have spent the last week watching your channel. You are very good at what you do, to put it mildly. Keep up the good work! Cheers from Sweden!
You have to be the best marine tech instructors on youtube. It's perfect timing for me, I'm retired from one career and decided to get into marine maintenance as a second career. I did it when I was young but, left it to pursue a different career. Going back to the basics is an excellent refresher course for me.
Thanks for the great videos. I used to pay for services on boats and 4x4's etc. My service bills for multiple work utes, vans, cars and boats were getting out of control. I found your video on installing a hydrive hydraulic steering system, which was great. Better than the manufactures manual. This week I got a load of water in my fuel, after 150 km round trip off Fraser Island the warning alarm stated sounding. No more than twenty meters from the ramp. Lucky... I started a complete service and using the service manual worked through everything, checked your vid on valve clearance adjustments and timing belts. I'm back on the water for the cost of service parts and a little bit of time. As a tradie I know there are jobs that are for the qualified mechanic, but completing basic maintenance myself is very rewarding and gives me something to do when the weather is crap. I have started involving my three boys, although young will have a reasonable understanding of the combustion engine when a little older. Keep up these brilliant videos. Tim
I am so thankful for your video's. I recently bought a Honda bf50 for my Wooldridge Alaskan and have learned and applied so much from you. I finally made my maiden voyage Sunday. Only to find out I have a spun prop thanks to your video on this, I was able to figure this out as well! Thanks for what you do!!
Split the timing belt in half horizontally, then cut the top half in two,take off the top half of the belt, slide on the new belt, cut the other half off and push the belt all the way down, and all the timings are correct
Nice job Stu. Never had an outboard with a timing belt, but I’m all set for the future now if I ever do! I’ve changed many on cars. Haven’t done one yet on an outboard.
Hi Stu and chooks, when I did my trade certificate the teacher explained the piston, valve workings was Suck, Sqeeze, Bang, Blow. Worked for me!!! Great vlog mate. 🇦🇺🌈🍺🐓😁
Hi Stu, I want to thank you for your video, it has helped me a lot in replacing the timing belt of the Honda BF 30D. It did take some sweat and tears. But the engine runs perfectly again. Thanks!
Another great video Stu, Just waiting for the winter to end here on the northeast coast of the USA and I should be back on the water in 2 months. Enjoy!
April 15 thru October 15 is our season here in New Jersey, USA. I wait until May when it gets into the 70 deg. F range. Not a fan of cold weather boating. But when the Stripers run in a few weeks, I'll trailer the 14' Aluminum for a 1-2 days fishing with the Boys.
Excellent Stu thanks! You've taken any potential stress and mystery put of the job for me when it comes to doing my Yamaha belt. Very imaginative crank turning tool too.
Great explanation, thanks Stu for these videos. I have learned so much by watching. I don’t even currently own a boat, but these are just great. I am shopping for a used boat just to try out some of these great lessons. Thanks, Tj
@@DangarMarine Just finished the job on my Yamaha F150 and man was it a bear! Had to use heat, hammering, impact on puller to pull that flywheel. Looks like some rust was the culprit but man that was tough. I dont know if you know but yamaha has a hydraulic tensioner that takes some patience and reading to untension the belt. At least my model has timing marks for each of the cams and drive shaft. Thanks for the vid again!
well done, I have 2003 Johnson four stroke. 115 if look @ the engine its a Suzuki, been store for 7 years. finger cross when the come to go in the shop, Toronto Ontario Canada, once again thanks. Chris.
Another great video. Mine Yamaha F115 seems much more easier than Honda outboard. I also swap the belt at it's 1200 hours about half of year ago, even I didn't see any damage to the original belt, very good shape, but I still swap it. I am a newbie for outboard, work out with a mechanic to loosing flywheel and mark every thing up and taking photos with original position, than swap the belt. But something I miss at the moment as I tight the belt up I didn't recognize the direction for the flywheel, so i didn't made it tight, and run it about another 1-2 hours and found the fuel meter at idle raise up much more than before. Lucky I found there some strange noise with it and no harm to my motor at the moment. I know I should be something loosen. I made mistake with the belt not tight enough, even more, the flywheel main nut was a little bit loosen too. I didn't add the threadlocking adhesive at the moment because I forgot to but it. Just using some steam tape and lock it up, so it fail of course. Then I re-do everything, tight up the things. I worked for it about 2 times to tighten up the belt, and I notice when you point the dual cam gear and the flywheel at the right timing but tight the belt up, will easily to move the cam gear and the wheel, normally dual cam at the right timing but the wheel will -10 TDC. So for me, take it easy with turn the wheel back of a little bit to 10 TDC, tight up the belt from the cam and the pulley, and the wheel at TDC and dual cam also at the right angle. I also add the loctite for threadlocking the flywheel main nut. My fuel meter gauge show the good result for me, from 1.8-2L per hour usage back to normal 1.2-1.3L per hour. Runs about 10 hours now, smooth and quiet motor now.
Gday mate another great video i wish my nissan pathfinder belt was as easy to change ,i enjoy your videos very well presented and very informative for blokes like me who love doing stuff ourselves my theory is if your out at sea and something goes wrong and you dont know your motor how can you attempt to fix it and get home .
Thankfully with a bit of removal you can get at the timing belt from the front last time the belt tensioner spring had dislocated so it was lucky that it was due for replacement being my first time i took it real slow
I sometimes just put my thumb over the plug hole on #1 and turn the crank. When the pressure blows air past your thumb that's Tdc or close. Next check the crank timing mark.
What if my timing belt is too loose? I just inspected it and found your excellent work and video! 2002 BF40 original belt and I see no cracks in it. Thanks
Great demo for timing belt replacement - thanks. I have a Suzuki DF9.9 of 2008 manual start - any particular advice to replace its timing belt, I never did this job before!
WOW ! I have never seen a 4 stroke OHC motor show static correct timing marks and be off after rotating the engine (𝑢𝑛𝑙𝑒𝑠𝑠 𝑜𝑓 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠𝑒 𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑑𝑖𝑑 𝑡ℎ𝑎𝑡 𝑡𝑜 𝑝𝑟𝑜𝑣𝑒 𝑎 𝑝𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡) ! It 𝗜𝗦 "best practice" to rotate the engine by hand 4 turns and verify that the marks still line up !!
I have done a few car timing belts, and I have seen that '1 tooth out' on all but one time. Give me an outboard to do a timing belt any day, east west engines in cars are always a PITA. Actual belt change (usually with a water pump as well these days) is about an hour, getting access so you can change the belt- about 6 hrs! Then you have tp get it back together again.
There is a half truth to your guess about proving a point. ;) I was editing up hours of footage from various times to make this video and thought that was worth including.
Awesome video! Very detailed. Last year I hit a rock and damaged the bottom end. I replaced the bottom end and prop. The engine runs well at full rpm’s when not under load. When it’s under load it maxes out between 3000 and 3500 rpm’s. It will not get up and plane. Is it possible that the timing has moved? This is a 2002 Honda 50HP. Thank you.
Thank you for your help with the timing belt I did not realise the the timing pulley is not self adjustable and I checked my belt and wow it was loose so I have retention it but can please help I have a metallic rattle at 4500 to 5000 revs with no load I've gone over it with my ear attached to a hose to hear any nocking or metallic sounds bottom is good smooth running top sounds a little metallic around the timing belt area iam thinking of replacing the pulley but I don't think that the sound Ian hearing at high revs any thoughts what may cause metallic sounds at high revs
As usual, excellent video! Got a question for you; just wondering if you could share the pro's and con's of belts vs. chains? I'm looking into the different models preparing for a purchase and see a suzuki selling point of having chains. Just wondering if that is a significant "advantage" in the grand scheme of things! You know, the meaning of life etc. .. thanks again!!
Chain Vs belt? Chain every time in a car or 4WD. In an outboard, it wouldn't worry me and probably wouldn't be a major decision point if it is a simple job as Stu demonstrated. Just with belts you change them at the intervals as per the manufacturers suggest, or if their condition gets to a stage as Stu noted. You don't wait for them to break- car, boat,4WD doesn't matter - they are cheap relative to an engine rebuild..
Chains, as well as lasting longer are more complicated as they need to be oiled so they are contained more internally in the engine and therefore harder to change. They are often advertised as lasting the life of the engine but we have had two broken timing chains come into the shop in the last few years.
I used to be one eyed, "chains are better than a rubber band" until recently when I've heard of quite a few engines having timing chain problems..... ahem, Commodore alloytec, as well as hearing that the old hiluxes used to need their oil changed every 5000km to look after the timing chain. (heard that from a diesel mechanic I used to work with) Belts might require more frequent maintenance, but if a timing chain has problems it's a whole lot bigger fix. However, when it comes to outboards; as long as direct injected 2-strokes are available, that's what I'll be running. No belts or chains required ;)
My TLDI has a belt- for the air compressor. If you want an old style carb 2 stroke you had better rush, only 14 months before they are banned from being sold ( new ones that is) . But expect carb two strokes to start being banned from lakes and 'sensitive areas' in a few years time.
But then again, my D40 Navara has a well known design fault with the timing chain. And yes, it has broken and been fixed, but with 300K kms, it would be strange beast to not be breaking something
Great explanation. I read somewhere that turning an outboard backwards can damage the water pump impeller. Has your experience been that it's not really important?
Jim H. It's the same with the whole engine. The oil pump spinning backwards=no oil moving about. It's fine to spin it backwards a little bit but I would not spin it heaps
It really depends how old the impeller is. If it is old you can bend an impeller blade backwards and it can break. If it is new it is most likely to be okay, but I have seen impellers where a blade has bend backwards and never flipped back to the correct orientation so it's worth being careful.
Thanks Greg, yep, poking something down the spark plug hole can give you a good visual clue, but it works better on motors were the spark plugs point down at the piston rather than coming in from the side like this motor.
How did it end up missing the crank timing mark? It seemed like you swapped directly. Did you rotate the crank without us seeing it? I suppose the resistance is so high that it won't rotate from small bumps...
sometimes when you remove the belt the cam will rotate slightly due to the valvespring pressures on the other cylinders. because the cam pulley is larger than the crank pulley it doesn't have to turn much to throw the crank pulley off 1 tooth. that's why it's always important to verify timing after changing the belt.
@@marzsit9833so if you make a mark on one tooth on both pulley and then a mark on the corresponding groves on the belt, you can transfer the marks to the new belt and then align the marks of the new belt with the marks on the teeth on the pulleys, everything should be correct…?
When should you ever buy an interference engine? Car or boat. How do you know which it is when buying or fixing it? Love these tech videos with lots of tips. Thanks Stu.
Interference engines exist because of these better performance, but I agree it doesn't seem worth it really. I think doing some research is the only way to know why type of engine any given one is, it isn't something you can easily tell from the outside.
Actually, almost all modern engines in cars are interference engines. At least on the European and Asian market. With the modern emission standards you really need the extra performance to pass the tests. Knowing if your engine is an interference engine or not isn't that easy, you need to do a fair bit of research and even then it's not guaranteed that you find this kind of info. This is generally not the kind of information a manufacturer will supply. When buying: don't worry about it. For fixing: treat every engine like an interference engine, make it standard practice to never spin the cranck- or camshaft without the belt on. Personally, I've not yet come across a non-interference engine. To my knowledge it's quite rare to find that in a car. I don't know about outboards...
All diesels are, due to the high compression. Most modern petrol engines are as well these days, unlike the 1970’s, when most were not. Sadly, that’s the price you pay for better performance.
Hi mate! Do YOU know if 89RU19 belt (BLUE PRINT, Gates, etc) for suzuki samurai 1.3 (instead of 89RU18 Honda OEM) belt is usable for Honda? It's only 1mm wider and priced worldwide around 15€ instead of the Honda OEM 100€. The structure of the belt and teething matches with honda's belt and quite sure it can fit to the crankshaft end? Plz give thumbs up to see if I can save Honda owner's some money, I really feel Honda is ripping us of with their prizes for Gates manufactured belts.
I just make 2 dots on cam teeth and belt, 1 dot on crank teeth and belt, transfer dots from old to new belt, and install (if its ok from the beginning)
+dangermarine you should do a video of a fibreglass transom replacement just bought a boat but has transom rot and needs replacing want to do it my self but dont know how
The most important reason for not rotating the motor in reverse is that the water pump impellor may get damaged if forced to flip over and turn in reverse
I have a 2001 75 HP Honda, if i am changing the Camshaft, do I have to take off the Crankshaft Pulley in order to remove the timing belt from the Camshaft Pulley?
If you don't have a service manual or online information how can you tell which direction the engine normally rotates? Is that the arrow mark on the flywheel?
It is normally marked on the flywheel, but a brief attempt to start it will tell you straight away. Also, if it isn't starting and isn't pull start, the flywheel will sometimes have those teardrop hooks for an emergency starter rope. The orientation of those will tell you which way it turns too.
Thanks mate. I made that video private as I always get comments about having used a rusty old brake pad to put the seal in. Here is the direct link if you want to watch it studio.youtube.com/#/video/osXS7XmhpWE/edit
Great video as usual... Got 2 questions: I have a 1997 honda bf8am. is it a interference engine ? and I will change the camshaft, so I need to know if the procedue is the same. Cheers!
I have a Parsun 15 HP 4 stroke engine, I changed the cylinder head gasket but by accident and forgetfulness I did not sign on the steering wheel with the engine block and I do not know how to put it to find its ignition point, gear toothed from the axle with cams I aligned it as the book says but the rest do not succeed, thank you
I need to replace the upper crankshaft oil seal on my Honda bf50, I have flywheel off, and finding a bit of trouble getting that big nut off, and once it is off and the pulley comes off is it a simple....pull the old one and install the new seal...any advice?
Hi Stu, long time watcher first time commenter. Thanks so much for all your videos they've helped me an untold amount! I have a BF45, just wondering, is it common practice to replace the tensioner pulley with the belt, or can you just replace the belt? Also do you need to check the belt after its been run for a while as I read they can stretch and need retensioning? thanks a million keep up the awesome videos
Hi Andy, good to hear from you. You don't absolutely need to change the tensioner but it is never easier while the belt is off so that is generally why people do it. I definitely think it is worth checking the belt tension after your first run and then at every service after that.
i have this exact engine and few days ago quit working, i have check all the electrical for connectivity issues, everything looks "good" it has a very weak spark on all 3 cylinders(already try new plugs but no luck)...any ideas on what can i check next, pulser coil reads fine 350 ohms, exciter coil reads 175 ohms (good), i have try a different CDI but nothing change, i'm now thinking about the coils; when i check the primary side resistance it give me continuity (biiiiipppp) but no ohms reading, spects shows 0.19-0.23 ohms, secondary resistance check with in tolerance 2.8 - 3.4 kilohms ...please help me!!!
for the sake of only doing this job on occasion, wouldnt be ok to just install 2 of those 14 mm bolts and use a screw driver to rotate the crank? most people dont have the resources to make that spinning tool
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Very well done! I am a licensed Auto Mechanic and a former instructor at a local Trade College and your description/demonstration is right on! Could be used as a trade school training video.
Thanks mate, that means a lot to me to hear that. :)
I could not agree more. Have similar background, but nowadays work as an automotive journalist for a car mag writing technical articles (along with other stuff) for a living. I do what you do, but with cars and in text, and I live in Sweden. I would be very proud if that description of a cambelt change was my own work. I am looking into buying my first boat, and have spent the last week watching your channel. You are very good at what you do, to put it mildly. Keep up the good work! Cheers from Sweden!
Mate, you have the best videos on youtube! You are basically the only mechanic uploading videos on youtube for DIY that is very precise!
Wow, thanks!
Mejor si fuera en español jjjjj yo ni puta idea de yanki
You have to be the best marine tech instructors on youtube. It's perfect timing for me, I'm retired from one career and decided to get into marine maintenance as a second career. I did it when I was young but, left it to pursue a different career. Going back to the basics is an excellent refresher course for me.
Thanks mate. Good luck with the new career!
I am a retired mechanic, and that was a better explanation of timing than I received when I went to factory classesGreat video
Thanks Dorf, glad you liked it. :)
Great video Stu while i worked on cars and cycles the last 45yrs and now retired your helping me take it to the next level Boats. Thanks
Your car experience will definitely serve you well working on boats.
Been in this business nearly all my life - and never seen a better explanation. Well done
Thank you Adrian. :)
Timing marks on an 8 horse Merc 4-stroke
Splendid explanation of replacement of that particular motor timing belt. Stu; you always have a career as an Educator. Thanks Mate !!.
You're welcome Angelo. :)
Thanks for the great videos. I used to pay for services on boats and 4x4's etc. My service bills for multiple work utes, vans, cars and boats were getting out of control.
I found your video on installing a hydrive hydraulic steering system, which was great. Better than the manufactures manual.
This week I got a load of water in my fuel, after 150 km round trip off Fraser Island the warning alarm stated sounding. No more than twenty meters from the ramp. Lucky...
I started a complete service and using the service manual worked through everything, checked your vid on valve clearance adjustments and timing belts.
I'm back on the water for the cost of service parts and a little bit of time.
As a tradie I know there are jobs that are for the qualified mechanic, but completing basic maintenance myself is very rewarding and gives me something to do when the weather is crap. I have started involving my three boys, although young will have a reasonable understanding of the combustion engine when a little older.
Keep up these brilliant videos.
Tim
I am so thankful for your video's. I recently bought a Honda bf50 for my Wooldridge Alaskan and have learned and applied so much from you. I finally made my maiden voyage Sunday. Only to find out I have a spun prop thanks to your video on this, I was able to figure this out as well! Thanks for what you do!!
Split the timing belt in half horizontally, then cut the top half in two,take off the top half of the belt, slide on the new belt, cut the other half off and push the belt all the way down, and all the timings are correct
Nice job Stu. Never had an outboard with a timing belt, but I’m all set for the future now if I ever do! I’ve changed many on cars. Haven’t done one yet on an outboard.
Thanks Jack, you never know what the future holds!
Man you are the king, thank you from the bottom of my heart
Superb - now I know what to look for on a BF50. Thank you.
Great video Stu. One of your best to date!!
Thanks Jim, glad you think so! :)
Great video as always!
You're so pedagogic and calm, really great! Good job!
Thanks Daniel!
Hi Stu and chooks, when I did my trade certificate the teacher explained the piston, valve workings was Suck, Sqeeze, Bang, Blow. Worked for me!!! Great vlog mate. 🇦🇺🌈🍺🐓😁
Hi Stu,
I want to thank you for your video, it has helped me a lot in replacing the timing belt of the Honda BF 30D.
It did take some sweat and tears.
But the engine runs perfectly again.
Thanks!
excellent,it's a job I have to do on my bf40 efi. so now I can see how easy this is without any special tools.cheers.
Thanks Alan, good luck!
Thanks Stu, another excellent video.
Thanks Bob!
That was good explaining the overlap on a certain camshaft position.Thanks.
Thanks mate, glad you liked it. :)
Thanks for this I got a BF45 and I'm going to do a belt this year. I also finally bit the bullet and bought the Honda service manual
It's always great to have the service manual for any motor you are working one. Good luck with the belt change.
This tools from honda shows that for putting on the fly wheel. Could it be used for baring over the engine as well? 07lpb zv30100
she'll be running in top shape, well done
Thanks mate. :)
Another great video Stu, Just waiting for the winter to end here on the northeast coast of the USA and I should be back on the water in 2 months. Enjoy!
Thanks John. So May is the start of your boating season generally?
April 15 thru October 15 is our season here in New Jersey, USA. I wait until May when it gets into the 70 deg. F range. Not a fan of cold weather boating. But when the Stripers run in a few weeks, I'll trailer the 14' Aluminum for a 1-2 days fishing with the Boys.
Excellent Stu thanks! You've taken any potential stress and mystery put of the job for me when it comes to doing my Yamaha belt. Very imaginative crank turning tool too.
You're welcome, good luck with the job. :)
Awesome explanation Sir, great detail !............even a person who does not know what an engine is could EASILY do this job...thankyou
Great vid, Stu. Very informative.
Thanks mate!
Good video Stu. Well explained. Cheers
Thank Neil!
Love your videos, please keep them coming!
Very informative. This guy rocks...
Tko zna, nabode iz prve! Great video! Thx
😂 provokator
Great explanation, thanks Stu for these videos. I have learned so much by watching. I don’t even currently own a boat, but these are just great. I am shopping for a used boat just to try out some of these great lessons. Thanks, Tj
Excellent presentation 😎👍👍
Thanks stu! Gonna try this on my yamaha f150 soon
You're welcome Ramon, good luck with the job.
@@DangarMarine Just finished the job on my Yamaha F150 and man was it a bear! Had to use heat, hammering, impact on puller to pull that flywheel. Looks like some rust was the culprit but man that was tough. I dont know if you know but yamaha has a hydraulic tensioner that takes some patience and reading to untension the belt. At least my model has timing marks for each of the cams and drive shaft. Thanks for the vid again!
well done, I have 2003 Johnson four stroke. 115 if look @ the engine its a Suzuki, been store for 7 years. finger cross when the come to go in the shop, Toronto Ontario Canada, once again thanks. Chris.
Thanks! This was very useful!!
Welcome. :)
Well done! Good info even if your not going to attempt it, but need to understand terminology and process.
Thanks Leon!
Just some FYI, here in the U.S. , the national auto parts chain stores have free tool rental programs for pullers,compression testers etc.
That's cool, certainly a great way to go if you don't need them often.
Another great video. Mine Yamaha F115 seems much more easier than Honda outboard. I also swap the belt at it's 1200 hours about half of year ago, even I didn't see any damage to the original belt, very good shape, but I still swap it.
I am a newbie for outboard, work out with a mechanic to loosing flywheel and mark every thing up and taking photos with original position, than swap the belt.
But something I miss at the moment as I tight the belt up I didn't recognize the direction for the flywheel, so i didn't made it tight, and run it about another 1-2 hours and found the fuel meter at idle raise up much more than before. Lucky I found there some strange noise with it and no harm to my motor at the moment. I know I should be something loosen.
I made mistake with the belt not tight enough, even more, the flywheel main nut was a little bit loosen too. I didn't add the threadlocking adhesive at the moment because I forgot to but it. Just using some steam tape and lock it up, so it fail of course.
Then I re-do everything, tight up the things. I worked for it about 2 times to tighten up the belt, and I notice when you point the dual cam gear and the flywheel at the right timing but tight the belt up, will easily to move the cam gear and the wheel, normally dual cam at the right timing but the wheel will -10 TDC.
So for me, take it easy with turn the wheel back of a little bit to 10 TDC, tight up the belt from the cam and the pulley, and the wheel at TDC and dual cam also at the right angle.
I also add the loctite for threadlocking the flywheel main nut.
My fuel meter gauge show the good result for me, from 1.8-2L per hour usage back to normal 1.2-1.3L per hour. Runs about 10 hours now, smooth and quiet motor now.
Thank you, waited for this One! 👍
You're welcome Michael.
Gday mate another great video i wish my nissan pathfinder belt was as easy to change ,i enjoy your videos very well presented and very informative for blokes like me who love doing stuff ourselves my theory is if your out at sea and something goes wrong and you dont know your motor how can you attempt to fix it and get home .
Thanks mate. For sure, plenty of the car belts we change are a nightmare. Half the time you need to even support the engine and take mounts out...
Thankfully with a bit of removal you can get at the timing belt from the front last time the belt tensioner spring had dislocated so it was lucky that it was due for replacement being my first time i took it real slow
Brilliant work 🤗
Thanks ✌️
I sometimes just put my thumb over the plug hole on #1 and turn the crank. When the pressure blows air past your thumb that's Tdc or close. Next check the crank timing mark.
Feeling pressure coming out the spark plug hole certainly tells you if you are on the compression stroke rather than the exhaust stroke.
very good job!
Great vid as Usual
Glad you liked it. :)
What if my timing belt is too loose? I just inspected it and found your excellent work and video! 2002 BF40 original belt and I see no cracks in it. Thanks
Great demo for timing belt replacement - thanks. I have a Suzuki DF9.9 of 2008 manual start - any particular advice to replace its timing belt, I never did this job before!
Sweet thank you 🙏
Marvelous video
WOW ! I have never seen a 4 stroke OHC motor show static correct timing marks and be off after rotating the engine (𝑢𝑛𝑙𝑒𝑠𝑠 𝑜𝑓 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠𝑒 𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑑𝑖𝑑 𝑡ℎ𝑎𝑡 𝑡𝑜 𝑝𝑟𝑜𝑣𝑒 𝑎 𝑝𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡) ! It 𝗜𝗦 "best practice" to rotate the engine by hand 4 turns and verify that the marks still line up !!
I have done a few car timing belts, and I have seen that '1 tooth out' on all but one time. Give me an outboard to do a timing belt any day, east west engines in cars are always a PITA. Actual belt change (usually with a water pump as well these days) is about an hour, getting access so you can change the belt- about 6 hrs! Then you have tp get it back together again.
There is a half truth to your guess about proving a point. ;) I was editing up hours of footage from various times to make this video and thought that was worth including.
Good job!
Very very helpful thank you !
You're welcome!
Oh crap. I wish I saw your video 2 months ago. I had to do my engine's new timing belt by trial and error. Took 2 weeks to get it purring just right.
I have not seen a Honda timing belt go bad ever
Awesome video! Very detailed. Last year I hit a rock and damaged the bottom end. I replaced the bottom end and prop. The engine runs well at full rpm’s when not under load. When it’s under load it maxes out between 3000 and 3500 rpm’s. It will not get up and plane. Is it possible that the timing has moved? This is a 2002 Honda 50HP. Thank you.
It is possible that the belt skipped, yes.
only thing you may have missed- some belts have an arrow for the direction of travel and can be incorrectly installed. cheers
Indeed, some belt are designed to turn in one direction only so worth checking before putting it on.
Great video again. Quick question my bf15 honda is 10 year old I use 4 week a year when do I need to change the belt
Nice one,thanks.
Thank you for your help with the timing belt I did not realise the the timing pulley is not self adjustable and I checked my belt and wow it was loose so I have retention it but can please help I have a metallic rattle at 4500 to 5000 revs with no load I've gone over it with my ear attached to a hose to hear any nocking or metallic sounds bottom is good smooth running top sounds a little metallic around the timing belt area iam thinking of replacing the pulley but I don't think that the sound Ian hearing at high revs any thoughts what may cause metallic sounds at high revs
As usual, excellent video! Got a question for you; just wondering if you could share the pro's and con's of belts vs. chains? I'm looking into the different models preparing for a purchase and see a suzuki selling point of having chains. Just wondering if that is a significant "advantage" in the grand scheme of things! You know, the meaning of life etc. ..
thanks again!!
Chain Vs belt? Chain every time in a car or 4WD. In an outboard, it wouldn't worry me and probably wouldn't be a major decision point if it is a simple job as Stu demonstrated. Just with belts you change them at the intervals as per the manufacturers suggest, or if their condition gets to a stage as Stu noted. You don't wait for them to break- car, boat,4WD doesn't matter - they are cheap relative to an engine rebuild..
Chains, as well as lasting longer are more complicated as they need to be oiled so they are contained more internally in the engine and therefore harder to change. They are often advertised as lasting the life of the engine but we have had two broken timing chains come into the shop in the last few years.
I used to be one eyed, "chains are better than a rubber band" until recently when I've heard of quite a few engines having timing chain problems..... ahem, Commodore alloytec, as well as hearing that the old hiluxes used to need their oil changed every 5000km to look after the timing chain. (heard that from a diesel mechanic I used to work with) Belts might require more frequent maintenance, but if a timing chain has problems it's a whole lot bigger fix.
However, when it comes to outboards; as long as direct injected 2-strokes are available, that's what I'll be running. No belts or chains required ;)
My TLDI has a belt- for the air compressor. If you want an old style carb 2 stroke you had better rush, only 14 months before they are banned from being sold ( new ones that is) . But expect carb two strokes to start being banned from lakes and 'sensitive areas' in a few years time.
But then again, my D40 Navara has a well known design fault with the timing chain. And yes, it has broken and been fixed, but with 300K kms, it would be strange beast to not be breaking something
Nice work
Makes me happy that I own a two stroke. Replacing the belt is a 2 minute job.
Great explanation. I read somewhere that turning an outboard backwards can damage the water pump impeller. Has your experience been that it's not really important?
Jim H. It's the same with the whole engine. The oil pump spinning backwards=no oil moving about. It's fine to spin it backwards a little bit but I would not spin it heaps
It really depends how old the impeller is. If it is old you can bend an impeller blade backwards and it can break. If it is new it is most likely to be okay, but I have seen impellers where a blade has bend backwards and never flipped back to the correct orientation so it's worth being careful.
did you wind it clock wise, as you said in previous video anti clockwise.
Hondas are anticlockwise. Most other outboards are clockwise.
Greetings Stuart,
Great Video As Always. An Easy Way To Remember The Order Of A Four Stroke Is:
Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow.
Cheers Michael.
Thanks Michael!
Great video. Dad would use a new unsharpened pencil in the cylinder to see when TDC occurred.
Thanks Greg, yep, poking something down the spark plug hole can give you a good visual clue, but it works better on motors were the spark plugs point down at the piston rather than coming in from the side like this motor.
You said manual says to turn back wards a bit before tightening the tensioner.
You moved it in the normal direction in video.
Ok.
How did it end up missing the crank timing mark? It seemed like you swapped directly. Did you rotate the crank without us seeing it? I suppose the resistance is so high that it won't rotate from small bumps...
sometimes when you remove the belt the cam will rotate slightly due to the valvespring pressures on the other cylinders. because the cam pulley is larger than the crank pulley it doesn't have to turn much to throw the crank pulley off 1 tooth. that's why it's always important to verify timing after changing the belt.
@@marzsit9833so if you make a mark on one tooth on both pulley and then a mark on the corresponding groves on the belt, you can transfer the marks to the new belt and then align the marks of the new belt with the marks on the teeth on the pulleys, everything should be correct…?
When should you ever buy an interference engine? Car or boat. How do you know which it is when buying or fixing it? Love these tech videos with lots of tips. Thanks Stu.
Interference engines exist because of these better performance, but I agree it doesn't seem worth it really. I think doing some research is the only way to know why type of engine any given one is, it isn't something you can easily tell from the outside.
Actually, almost all modern engines in cars are interference engines. At least on the European and Asian market. With the modern emission standards you really need the extra performance to pass the tests. Knowing if your engine is an interference engine or not isn't that easy, you need to do a fair bit of research and even then it's not guaranteed that you find this kind of info. This is generally not the kind of information a manufacturer will supply.
When buying: don't worry about it. For fixing: treat every engine like an interference engine, make it standard practice to never spin the cranck- or camshaft without the belt on.
Personally, I've not yet come across a non-interference engine. To my knowledge it's quite rare to find that in a car. I don't know about outboards...
All diesels are, due to the high compression.
Most modern petrol engines are as well these days, unlike the 1970’s, when most were not.
Sadly, that’s the price you pay for better performance.
Hi mate! Do YOU know if 89RU19 belt (BLUE PRINT, Gates, etc) for suzuki samurai 1.3 (instead of 89RU18 Honda OEM) belt is usable for Honda?
It's only 1mm wider and priced worldwide around 15€ instead of the Honda OEM 100€.
The structure of the belt and teething matches with honda's belt and quite sure it can fit to the crankshaft end?
Plz give thumbs up to see if I can save Honda owner's some money, I really feel Honda is ripping us of with their prizes for Gates manufactured belts.
Don't know, sorry.
@@DangarMarine Thanks for answering!
Going to buy one for experimenting. Great instructions in this video as always!
Cheers from Finland!
I just make 2 dots on cam teeth and belt, 1 dot on crank teeth and belt, transfer dots from old to new belt, and install (if its ok from the beginning)
Well done many thanks...
Well done thanks for that!
So, if i 've to replace the belt and the motor works nice, i don't need to use the ref. Right? Just replacing It in the same position right?
+dangermarine you should do a video of a fibreglass transom replacement just bought a boat but has transom rot and needs replacing want to do it my self but dont know how
Yes, I would like to do that one day. Just need to find a fibreglass hull with a rotten transom!
Is this motor interference or non?
Hi.. How to adjust the timing of the Honda Bf8A.. Thank you very much
Great video but you never told us what kind of motor that was in regards to timing valves
As in interference or non-interference? I'm not actually sure with this motor so I just treat them all as interference to be on the safe side.
The most important reason for not rotating the motor in reverse is that the water pump impellor may get damaged if forced to flip over and turn in reverse
Would you recommend oem parts for those engines?Thanks
Yes, I always just order them from a Honda dealer down the road.
New subscriber. Have you done a video on carburetor adjustment on a 2001 Honda 15hp 4 stroke?
Wasn't the video I expected but good as always. Interesting the timing mark was off and the belt needed to be re-adjusted? Why did the crank move?
Thanks Tim. Sometimes the crank can move, sometimes the belt can pop off to a different tooth before you get the tension on properly.
I have a 2001 75 HP Honda, if i am changing the Camshaft, do I have to take off the Crankshaft Pulley in order to remove the timing belt from the Camshaft Pulley?
Hi David my motor is a bf 50a any thoughts on metallic sounds at high revs not under load cheers Rick
Which 25 or 30 HP 4 stroke engines valves won't hit if belt breaks ?
Did you turn that crank clockwise? 😅 loving your videos stu.
If you don't have a service manual or online information how can you tell which direction the engine normally rotates? Is that the arrow mark on the flywheel?
It is normally marked on the flywheel, but a brief attempt to start it will tell you straight away. Also, if it isn't starting and isn't pull start, the flywheel will sometimes have those teardrop hooks for an emergency starter rope. The orientation of those will tell you which way it turns too.
Great! Video!
18:50 which is the slifting torque? Sorry for my english....
Hey Dangarstu, awesome vid mate! Did you used have a vid on replacing trailer bearings? Cant seem to find it???
Thanks mate. I made that video private as I always get comments about having used a rusty old brake pad to put the seal in. Here is the direct link if you want to watch it studio.youtube.com/#/video/osXS7XmhpWE/edit
We have two outboard 30 hp Honda & yammah 4 stroke
Great video as usual... Got 2 questions: I have a 1997 honda bf8am. is it a interference engine ? and I will change the camshaft, so I need to know if the procedue is the same. Cheers!
I have a Parsun 15 HP 4 stroke engine, I changed the cylinder head gasket but by accident and forgetfulness I did not sign on the steering wheel with the engine block and I do not know how to put it to find its ignition point, gear toothed from the axle with cams I aligned it as the book says but the rest do not succeed, thank you
On the f40 tlrb does not have an idler pulley, how loose can the belt be, mine is 2-3 cm loose when pushing in with finger
I need to replace the upper crankshaft oil seal on my Honda bf50, I have flywheel off, and finding a bit of trouble getting that big nut off, and once it is off and the pulley comes off is it a simple....pull the old one and install the new seal...any advice?
Do you know how to decipher the timing marks on the cam sprocket for a 2010 f25 yamaha? Struggling to figure it out
Hi Stu, long time watcher first time commenter. Thanks so much for all your videos they've helped me an untold amount! I have a BF45, just wondering, is it common practice to replace the tensioner pulley with the belt, or can you just replace the belt? Also do you need to check the belt after its been run for a while as I read they can stretch and need retensioning? thanks a million keep up the awesome videos
Hi Andy, good to hear from you. You don't absolutely need to change the tensioner but it is never easier while the belt is off so that is generally why people do it. I definitely think it is worth checking the belt tension after your first run and then at every service after that.
Are you able to set ignition timing on this outboard??
I have a Yamaha f50 2004 it needs a new timing belt any idea what the part number is there are several that come up
i have this exact engine and few days ago quit working, i have check all the electrical for connectivity issues, everything looks "good" it has a very weak spark on all 3 cylinders(already try new plugs but no luck)...any ideas on what can i check next, pulser coil reads fine 350 ohms, exciter coil reads 175 ohms (good), i have try a different CDI but nothing change, i'm now thinking about the coils; when i check the primary side resistance it give me continuity (biiiiipppp) but no ohms reading, spects shows 0.19-0.23 ohms, secondary resistance check with in tolerance 2.8 - 3.4 kilohms ...please help me!!!
for the sake of only doing this job on occasion, wouldnt be ok to just install 2 of those 14 mm bolts and use a screw driver to rotate the crank? most people dont have the resources to make that spinning tool