Draining the SWAMP... (RARE Abandoned Audi Turbo - Part 9)
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- I was dreading doing this DIRTY procedure from Day 1, but there's no way around it...
The inside of the FUEL TANK on this 1991 Audi Turbo Wagon is a GIANT RUSTY MESS!
The fuel pump pickup screen gets clogged solid within 10 miles of driving...
SHOP VAC and garden hose to the rescue!
After draining the swampy gas tank, we can actually take the Audi for a REAL TEST DRIVE!
As expected, MORE BUGS crop up in the long "domino of reanimation":
-THERMOSTAT is flaky, and COOLANT system is also very dirty.
-CHECK ENGINE LIGHT comes ON under boost.
-BRAKES are SEIZING UP when hot?
Shop-Vac 5 Gallon 4.5 Peak HP Wet/Dry Vacuum:
www.amazon.com...
S.U.R. & R. FPT22 Deluxe Fuel Injection Pressure Tester:
www.amazon.com...
S.U.R. & R. FPT290 Deluxe Fuel Pressure Tester Adapter Kit:L
www.amazon.com...
AWESOME TEST LIGHT:
www.amazon.com...
2-CHANNEL Pocket Oscilloscope 120Mhz:
www.amazon.com...
Enjoy!
Ivan
I would never question your knowledge and skill but this was nuts. The tank has to go.
That's exactly what I said. You can't fix a rusty tank. Time to head to Wilbert's. Lolol
Please anyone watching this video. Never ever use a shopvac to pick up anything like gasoline. This video should be edited to cut that vacuum out. Those vacuums use what is called a Bypass vacuum pump, the air from the canister passes over the motor, and the arcing brushes. The explosive gas fumes separate from the water. This is one very lucky RUclipsr.
You must be a lawyer too 🤔😅
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics No just a fire fighter and mechanic.
@@thepubliceye would have made for a more exciting video though! 😉
OMG, Ivan! When you talked about vacuum and cleaning the gas tank I had visions of what happened to me when I vacuumed a little puddle of gas on the garage floor...many, many years ago when I was just getting started on cars....and young and dumb. So what happened...are you with me? The proper air fuel mixture entered the vacuum and was expelled out the back as a FLAMING ERUPTION! Holy crap! Fortunately nothing near the exiting flame thrower and the ignition point was just at the exit point so no explosion. GEEZ! That was exciting. (Never did that one again, and think of the fear I felt when I thought this might happen to you. But no worries--you're young but not dumb. Water saved the day.) Best wishes for continued success from sunny Florida.
I was cringing the entire time until he pulled out the water hose. I know Ivan is a bright fella, so I should have given him more credit, but for a brief moment I thought this project was going to meet an ugly end.
Fill the tank with water and a very concentrated dose of CLR or Crystal Drano. And let it sit overnight and it will dissolve the rust. Just make sure to fush the tank multiple times. Works on radiators as well. I get a bunch of old tractors and cars that parts are not available for and i try to save money and keep it a live as well.
Afterwards, you can passivate / phosphate the tank with something like POR-15 metal prep. Dupont used to make this stuff called 5718s, but you can't find it anymore.
I have derusted a lot of parts with Oxalic Acid (wood bleach) and water. Never on the scale of a gas tank, though.
My guess is that timing belt is dry rotted and ready to break.That would be my priority asap.
Thats exactly what I was thinking.
He said he checked it in an earlier series and it looked fine, customer said to hold off
Customer might bring it back next year for a timing belt job :)
....oh, it WILL be back... Like a Super Ball....
Radiator too
However much the owner of this Audi is paying you for these repairs Ivan, it's not nearly enough IMO. Your patience and skills are exceptional. Nice one matey...carry on !
Hello Ivan,
NICE work on the vacuum system you used to clean the fuel tank.
You pulled so much gunk/rust, and also answered a Q I could not remember. Steel tank, not plastic. Fuel tank with this much mass loss needs to be replaced. No option.
TOP NOTCH video!
As a learning tech I really appreciate and have enjoyed this series.
It take so much to get a vehicle running proper again.
Ivan I have really enjoyed this marathon of videos! When completed will you be able to tell us the total hours you spent on the project? You’re one of my favorite channels to watch…always waiting for the next one. Thank you! David
Ditto!
Sometimes "the light at the end of the tunnel" is actually a train coming😅
I would replace the fuel tank at any cost, it is crumbling. It's the kind of car that will always have something to fix, the problems will never end.
The mark of German engineering
I agree that it needs a tank.. But at what cost?
It's not really worth it for how often this will get driven.
Yes needs new tank and another 100 repairs,
I agree
Rust flakes are usually magnetic. I would use a Magnetron circular donut magnet, from a failed microwave magnetron. Each microwave usually has 2 donut shaped magnets. They are very powerfull. I would even consider after all cleaned out, to leave those magnets in the tank within reach so they can be cleaned at a later time.
Wheel bearings are easy, just one little catch: from factory, the CV splines are glued (Loctite #SpecialStuff) to the hubs. They can be REALLY stuck when the Gastarbeiter responsible for mounting it double-squeezed the bottle or some mechanic used permanent Loctite when remounting...
FWIW we did these in situ, VAG had a tool kit basically like the screw-type extractors popular today.
It is not just the gastarbeiter , germans (west germans) did a really shitty job as well . I saw it happening .
@@attilakohbor3360 yeah, I visited Ingolstadt for training two or three times and got the tour everytime. Not impressed with what I saw.
Hey Ivan I would have highly recommend to the customer he should replace that fuel tank it is way too far gone he is going to have nothing but problems in the long run.
I think the combination of more pending corrosion everywhere, more tank rust, combined with insanely over complicated engineering, minimal oem part availability predicts the future of this car.
I disagree, Keeping the Audi going in the long will be far easier than keeping almost any modern car going once they get old.
Meh, he clearly has a way of finding parts. It was one of 150 imported with the 3B 20v engine. Rare
sell it fast..
Perhaps adding a magnet to leave in the tank may capture some of the particles when the tank is in operation... Also, a light misting of diesel fuel will prevent flash rusting until you're ready to fill the tank with gasoline.
I have watched this series from the start and will to the finish. I am not a fan of Eurotrash. I guess some people have a soft spot in their heart for some cars for their reasons...but this owner seems to have a soft spot in his head too. This car is a never ending money pit that will never be reliable no matter how much work is performed. I make these comments not from my emotions, but from my 50 years of hands on auto business experience. Ivan deserves his own television show for his videos!
That Audi 200 was junk when it was brand new now the car is 30+ years old 100% money pit and it will never be reliable
I too spent fifty years in this business and I can still say “I never met an Audi I liked to work on”. My opinion has not changed after watching this series ‼️
Haha, 50 yrs? So you are old and unable to work on anything at this point? What do you like GM products? 😂 This car is 1of 150 imported. I doubt the owner will be daily driving it. Why can’t you just let people be happy?
Yes Dusty. And I worked on my share of Ford Pintos as well. We need to see if Ivan can get one to idle smooth 😂
No one is telling someone not to be happy. If you want to drink sour milk go ahead and do so if it makes you happy. As for being old, have respect for your elders. Just because you started when cars had points doesn't mean that you haven't learned and kept up with technology. Ivan has skills that most mechanics envy. He does work for other shops. That is how this business has evolved.@@dustyrhodes2717
I'd consider putting some larger zinc pieces into the tank to prevent further rust. You can get them for marine applications, many salt water boats uses them. They often have iron parts that have to be removed, and then they can be loose in the tank and prevent further rust.
You can get sacrificial anodes pretty cheap at Lowe’s or Home Depot over in the water heater section. They have the cut to fit versions along with the flexible ones that look like linked sausage.
Wow! Your bill to the owner of this car after your done far exceeds the value of the car with all the work that has been done and what yet needs to be done! Great work and great videos on the car Ivan!
I’d gladly pay $20,000.00 for it and dance to the bank. But, I’m one of those weird people who love station wagons. This one, Volvo X Countries, Pinto wagons, Volares, Nomads,etc……
@@shanepowers7566
I love wagons too, I'd pay good money for a mint RWD 7 or 9 series Volvo turbo wagon.
Hahaha, I said that back on episode one.
Thats a 5 Cylinder Turbo Quattro wagon. Definetly worth saving. There are two on the German craigslist (Ebay Kleinanzeigen) for 10-20k€ depending on mileage and condition.
I wonder if the owner was trying to subsidize a Christmas Special. And who wouldn't like to see all the repair drama of his own car on video?
Great job Ivan. Wonderful persistence as usual. Most people anymore would not even know how to fix this without a computer!
This is a case of mind over matter, the matter being rusty and sluggish. I don't know how you still have the strength to proceed - every step creates a new step. Great effort, Ivan!
I am really enjoying watching this series. I still wonder why Audi had to make things so complicated, but that is all of the German manufacturers. I'm especially happy to see this is a wagon because I love wagons, particularly imported ones.
Can't believe the customer is risking the timing belt after all your work.
This is a lovely car
A lovely car?????? It's a P.O.German Sheit.
lol Ivan I sprayed water in my gas tank when I replaced the fuel pump and evaporator system on my Yukon. Dropped the tank though. Figured I might as well clean it well. The whole evaporation system was clogged with charcoal pellets.
Reminds me of my tanker days! Old time ships with uncoated tanks were a mess. Think of a bunch of people in the tank with brooms and shovels and loud blowers.
i think all the viewers would be interested in knowing how much diag cost was involved in a job like this.
Gasoline vapors, even diluted with water, being suck out with a universal motor with sparking brushes in the motor, is dancing with the devil Ivan.
That pump never did sound 'happy'. Great call on the o2. What's nice about OBD1 is its simplicity, meaning you get real faults in real time with all monitored sensors. So a light on, then off tells you that there is an intermittent performance problem, light on constant is an open or short right now. Obd 1 stores codes in MOST cases, but clears 1 trip faults, if you want to call it that, every KOEO, UNLESS there is an open or short. ( sensor out of range) So, no constantly clearing codes and retesting or re-running a drive cycle like OBD 2. Good idea on the tank flush for now. I did much the same thing on a JD tractor whose tank was full of .. earwigs..yeah the insect! Pulling that tank involved dismantling of 75% of the tractor. Nope! I thought about adding cleaning chemicals BUT IMO when a tank is that rusty, you're asking for pin hole leaks. So eventually we all know it's gonna need a tank, but doing so on 1s back on jackstands?! Not for me! Not on this car! Let's see what happens with the brakes. Hopefully a valve in the ABS isn't sticking. I'd got after the master 1st as well.
I have a 1988 2.1i VW caravelle that I need to get back on the road - it has been dry stored for 10 years so I am a bit concerned about the process. Your videos have helped me see how you have approached the process of restoring an older VW! Thanks and Merry Christmas - hope you have some downtime next week!
Not so much for cleaning the tank, but afterwards. I flush gas tanks liberally with alcohol, then air dry. It gets the last bit of moisture out.
Thank You for the videos! I always learn some new trick or process. Have a great Holiday!
When servicing a cooling system on an older vehicle I do these steps
Drain old coolant
Fill with plain water. Drive until vehicles reaches operating temp. Drain
Fill with plain water and cooling system "flush". Repeat drive and drain.
Fill with plain water. Repeat drive and drain.
Fill with 100% coolant. Drive. Let cool and check strength.
Ivan has the best automotive diagnostic channels on RUclips. Not just entertainment very educational….
Regular household vinegar will eat all that rust. It will take a few days but it will make it look brand new.
You're right Rusteration job ! I've watched a lot of the ( Will it Run ) videos on fairly older vehicles , some from the 30's and 40's. They don't have anything on this Audi Christmas video series. I hope this guy is paying you well Ivan- this is restoration work !
The Audi color should be yellow….lemon color. 😀 I suggest Ivan locate a comfortable mattress for the rear of the Audi as you will be need to repair this lemon often. Best to be ready to repair it when the car goes for a run. (Not a reflection of your work Ivan, just so many other things that are likely to go Kaput)
I have heard of people using CRC evapo-rust, or Rust-Oleum rust desolver to clean the tank.
There is a product called glyptal that we use on hydraulic tanks to seal the inside of the tanks. Maybe you can hand coat the inside of the Audi tank. In a hydraulic system any very tiny particles will destroy a pump.
They make gas tank liner compound for gas tanks. Probably a lot cheaper. I have aviation fuel tank sealant, and it's probably more like your glyptal. Two-part compound, impervious to just about anything, and makes a good adhesive.
i really enjoy your channel have followed for a long time watching the problems you fix on these vehicles makes me love my 1994 ram 2500 and my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee more and more . thanks for all the trouble you go to sharing these fixes with us.
Very satisfying to see and older car rescued.
Nice job 👍
A good pressure washer hot water works great. I have done quite a few tanks like that. Only thing different. I just used the vacuum as usual.
Great diag, looking forward to the next part!
Rust never sleeps !
Especially the rust in New York City. The city that never sleeps.
I see the plan: fill tank, drive to empty, pull out fuel pump, clean screen, reinstall fuel pump, repeat (20 x).
Ivan. Put a fuel filter on the return line because it dumps into the tank pickup. That should slow the pickup of rust. Greetings from Tbilisi...
How would putting a filter on the return line help if the fuel is already filtered in the return line? I will actually do a small modification in the final part of the series to address this issue :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics it was filtered before but then you had to clean the screen because what was sent back. Just an extra layer of filtering.
There is your better way to clean the tank. Consider getting a sewer jetting hose for your pressure washer and using it to clean the impossible areas of tanks in the future. A full rotating head is best because it spins the pressure point. That tank is so bad that cleaning it may create a leak but what can you do. The sewer jetter is also great for clearing clogged septic lines and underground gutter water drain lines. They cost around $100. Thank you for the excellent video content.
Put some magnets in the tank??
"Light at the end of the tunnel"----I don't think so. The oxidation on all of the components will cause many future problems. With how much time and money the customer has spent and will spend on this car, I can guarantee that at the very least the fuel screen line will clog again. Taking out the gas tank (or replacing it) would be the only way to insure this problem(por15,. kbs, mastercoat, etc) I have done quite a few, so maybe advise the owner that this should be done or he will likely be stranded somewhere.
Won't get stranded since pump clogs very gradually and gives plenty of warning by humming 😉
It'll be interesting to see what you find with the master cylinder. I had one of these cars some years ago and it had the same issue with the brakes sticking sometimes. Mine had so many electrical gremlins. No lie, if you wanted dash illumination when you turned the headlights on, you had to open the glovebox first so the glovebox light would come on, then you could close the glovebox. If you just turned the lights on without the glovebox open, dash would have no illumination. It was a fun car to drive though.
Hello Ivan: Regarding the tank issues. A reasonably cheap method to clean the tank. Get enough muriatic acid to make a 35% concentration mix. Fill tank with water leaving appropriate volume for the acid. Add acid slowly and mix well. Always add the acid to water go from high concentration to low. Wear all appropriate PPE. GLOVES FACEMASK EYE PROTECTION Clothing etc. Let mixture work for 24 hrs. Drain into suitable plastic container (do not use Galvanized containers), on your 2nd rinse fill, put a reasonable magnet in the tank. Keep it suspended. Let magnet work several hours with occasional mild adgitation of tank fluid. Remove magnet, if heavily coated with particles repeat until practically no particles appear on magnet.
One final rinse with a spray of methanol or methyl hydrate to remove any sesidual moisture and tank should be decontaminated. If you use this method I think you will be very surprised at how clean the tank will be once completed. Good luck have a great Christmas. Looking forward to your 2024 videos.
Realy enjoying this run of clips on the Audi.
An Audi with the light at the end of the tunnel? That's unheard of 😂
That's just ridiculous the tank is beyond saving it needs replaced rust will continue to break loose an clog filter get thru and destroy the fuel pump and clog injectors
Couldn't agree more, there's so much rust still in the tank and it's only going to get worse over time. Eventually the owner will have to deal with the blocked screen again or worse have the tank dump its contents when it completely rusts through.
I agree, but maybe it can be hard to find a new tank for an Audi wagon now
Only time will tell 😄
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsivan what about aftermarket maybe a bolt in fuel tank relocate it?
They do make a fuel tank sealer. Get out what you can and then let the tank air dry. Apply the sealer and basically cover the rust. I'm sure there's also an inhibitor to stop the rusting process
One unusual, but very good method for removing rust is to get feed grade molasses + water 9:1 and leave it soak for a long time, it can take a month. It's not like using acid where it will rust instantly again. Search for it on youtube.
One body shop dunked an entire 1950's pick up cab in it...comes out nice!
But---I think using flame on that tank (1st fill with gas) would be 'better.'
One of my cars once did similar with the brakes, just on one journey, it appeared to be a blocked air vent on the brake master cylinder, I unscrewed it about a quarter of a turn to get home and then poked the vent out. Problem never returned. I used to keep the engine bay stupidly clean in that car, that's probably how it happened.... displaced dirt. Well done with this car, though I think you should fit that spring clip on that rear brake pad and give that fuel tank another clean. These cars were a bundle of fun back in the day.
Put an extra hole in your bucket lid to prevent it from collapsing. I'd also be concerned about gas fumes exploding from sparks in the vacuums motor.
Hi Yvan, great job, vinegar in tank , one day later everything neutralisés, rince with water, a friend rinced Audi 100 tank with water and airdried, he was lucky to lower tank more easily i guess, runs fine!
I'd be getting a pressure washer on the inside of the tank with one of the rotating nozzles for cleaning concrete etc. and after draining that follow up with evaporust.
Leave the last clean with evaporust for a few hours. Then drain..
Yo Ivan, there is a bulb or two out on the right hand side of the tacho. The instrument back lighting should be uniform. Left side of tacho has good backlighting, right side is dim.
Changing antifreeze regularly (about 60,000 miles) prevents water pump failure, radiator plugging up, and head gasket leaks!
Ivan
If you can get oxalic acid, let that work in the gas tank for about an hour, then flush it with baking soda solution and water. That gets rid of rust really quick.
I had a 2000 Mercury Sable with the Vulcan V6 in it and the entire cooling system was loaded with rust. No matter what I did before using the acid, it kept clogging everything. I took out the thermostat temporarily and used the acid solution one time and it came out in small chunks of debris. I ended up doing it a week later for a second treatment. That cleaned it out really good and the temperature was maybe 30 degrees cooler when it was running. It also was able to heat up quicker too since the cooling system was cleaner.
I remember GM used a similar cleaning solution because the GM dexcool often clogs up the cooling system if it isn't maintained right.
When the guy went to Sears and bought a shop vac to drain the fuel from his boat because the fuel fill hose failed, the fumes got to the motor and set the vac on fire then the flames went down the hose and set the entire boat ablaze, which set both boats beside his ablaze. be careful with a shop vac and gasoline.
Great job Ivan , I cleaned boat tanks a few times. You can not take them out a lot of times. You put a handfull of bolts and nuts inside. Move e'm around somehow. This will loossen the dirt. Your vacuum set up an a strong magnet takes the nuts and bolts out again. O ... if you miss one it might make a nice annoying rattle. Greetz John.
Many years ago I did much the same thing to a 1986 VW Golf gas tank. Filled it with water and flushed many times. It was a plastic tank though so no rust, just LOTS of sand and other mystery crud. It got clean eventually. Fun for you! Ugh...
I had a 77 Monte Carlo that had a similar fuel tank issue, clogged filter. Filters were cheap enough to keep spares onboard and replace in a parking lot if needed. After months of replacing religiously, the clogging was infrequent.
Definitely getting there, wherever there might be. Amazing progress Ivan!
Hi Ivan, what I've used in the past is the big flat. Magnets out of the transmission pans, throw in 3 or 4 of them. They'll pick up the rust
I did a similar job on a gas tank. After I emptied the tank. I put some dawn dishwashing and added hot water. I kept emptying and refilling. Since it was a small tank. I used a air grinder with a small disk to get the bigger rust out. Came out good. Like yours...bit of rusted stuff.
Next time try naval jelly. It is time-consuming but the naval jelly will remove as much rust as possible.
Replace sensor - no motor engine light accaptable.
Replace timing belt, spanner and so on.
Replace water-pump.
De-rust the tank completely.
Replace brake-master-cyylinder.
Otherwise the customer will have fun only for short time.
40 years ago those audis been in my family - i took care of them until 2000.
Evapo-rust Thermocure. It is intended for flushing the cooling system but one container mixes with 3 gallons of water. Cheaper than regular Evapo-rust this way.
I am not even near the end of this marathon... Don't have time this days.
This Audi reminds me of my Clio mk2 turbo I do now. There also been someone.. everywhere, a butcher.
Btw I don't know you know "I do cars" 😅
You and him my best channels of all times..
You cannot imagine how much you teach me lol.
Anyway Merry Christmas and Happy New year Ivan.
I kept thinking of ways to clean that fuel tank by turning it into a electrolysis tank by making the tank the anode and inserting a cathode to draw the rust out. Another fun video...
Evaporust baby! Maybe a little pricey but worth it.
Ivan, sometimes the light at the end of the tunnel is an oncoming train 🚆 so be very careful 😉 Hopefully in this case it’s not.
After a trip in elevation I had the brakes lock up. After complete disassembly of the master cylinder and cleaning. The fix was new fluid and a new cap that was leaking air into the system contaminating the fluid with water. Fixed! It took 2 weeks for this to appear after we were back at sea level. Crazy.
What a complicated car !!! Monumental series..🏆
The nightmare before Christmas:D
I would question the owner's sanity.
Your about 80% there. ..your awesome. Can't wait until the next one...
the adaption you made for thr the shop vac I have 2 of them one is dfor water / clearing a drain a plastic affair the other chamber is steel for clearing a wood burner if its still warm
The crud you took out of the Audi gas tank looked like disintegrating tank material. Is a junkyard tank unobtainium?
I'm thinking this "Christmas repair" was Christmas for Ivan! So many DIFFERENT elements
I think Ivan nailed it with "Full Restoration". That car will NEVER be reliable at all unless every inch of it is gone through. But man, that Audi was really something when it rolled off the factory floor. Is it even worthy of restoration? Maybe, it's quite a unique car.
I'd have wanted one just because it has a manual! 👍
Years ago I had a old British motorcycle with a rusty gas tank (inside). I did a flush and coated the inside with gas tank sealer. It worked well and I never had and contamination problems afterwards.
Be careful sucking the gas out with a vacuum. If the brushes spark you could have a incident. We were told in A&P class of a person working on the filler on a plane wing with a battery drill. The vapor ignited and the mechanic was blown through the roof of the hanger.
Put a magnet down in the tank to remove the rust particles.
Ivan, that tank is surely a hand full of rust! I would have put some super strong magnets in there to attract the small particles of rust floating around to keep them away from the pickup screen.
I love the sound of the engine. Sounds like a V10.
Diluted muriatic acid to clean out a rusty and gelled up gas tank works extremely well.
Really...amazing.
It would probably just eat through the tank.. It really just needs a new tank. but I think it will be fine; the guy likely won't run it as a daily driver anyway.
@@calholli It’s not a strong enough acid to eat through the tank. I’ve used it many times before, and it works very well. Naturally, you can’t leave it in there forever because it will eventually eat some of the metal!
Too strong. We don’t need to put a hole in the tank.
@@Michael-yi4mc😂
For that fuel tank, I would have scrubbed the inside with a metal brush to knock the loose chunkies off. If there was a way to get the tank out, maybe media blast the inside. Thoroughly rinse. Then passivate the tank. The stuff I use is POR-15 metal prep. It's phosphoric acid based, and it will do a conversion coat on a.k.a. passivate the steel with zinc phosphate. At that point, you could use tank liner compound to make it bullet proof. However, once the tank is passivated, the most important thing is to keep the tank relatively full, which will minimize moisture in the tank.
I would agree with that process👍
Those coolant hoses 😬
10 out of 10 for perseverance Ivan. I saw a video once where they used molasses to clean a petrol tank out and it shone inside. I was thinking why does this man want this car repaired on a shoestring although he is supplying all the parts you request. I find out after research that this car is possibly worth $100,0000 so really do think it should have money invested in it in the right places i.e. new fuel tank. I do commend the repair work you do. I have to do to the same to keep my vehicles on the rod.
The best solution is tank replacement. My last attempt would be to run an Acid Cleaner inside such as CLR ,Evapo Rust or diluted muriatic acid. Let it dissolve as much rust as possible. Rinse again with your water vac method.
Slowly but surely it's coming together.
Your doing great Ivan!
What is it with people not spelling the word * you're, correctly?
Ivan, I haven’t gotten to the end yet but I will, so if you figured this out by the end I apologize. Placing your vacuum bucket inside another bucket will prevent it from collapsing. I can’t claim credit for this idea, I learned it on RUclips. I’ve stopped working on cars but I still enjoy watching your troubleshooting skills. Thanks.
this when a mighty vac comes in handy , I use mine all the time for sucking up oil & gas and also for filling Oil & gas , its so handy for draining rads from the top or transmissions through the dip stick before pulling the pan off ,no soaked clothes buddy.
So much skill and perseverance on this channel 🙂
3:48 Maaaaan! This only new one gas tank or full filled with water, some detergent and crashed abrasive stones then tumbler to spin and take out all rust.
4:33 made one little hole on that basket.
Have a look at the transfer port on the brake master cylinder. Had that problem years ago with a clutch MC. Others had replaced the clutch (at significant expense) and it came to me because after a while it was still starting to slip (owner was in our area with a church camp). Blew out the transfer port by removing the MC outlet, blowing some air in and voila, a bit of crud blew out of the transfer port. Reassembly and bleed and clutch MC and the clutch as a whole worked perfectly after that. No parts required repair - like you like. PS. Put some rag on top of the MC. Brake fluid spirting out doesn't do the paint any good - nor your eye balls.
I do a lot of motorcycle restoration on the side, I've use vinegar with good results but man , that's a lot of vinegar to fill a tank !
I was doing a little googling, and the motorcycle guys seem fond of using tank liner after a thorough cleaning and passivation.
I also used vinegar a few years ago to clean the tank of my Honda CBR929 which sat for 17 years in storage. After the vinegar I flushed it out with distilled water and baking soda. Then came the fun part, put some small shop lite chains in it and shook like hell... rinse with water and repeat until I saw no more rust coming out of the tank. After I removed the moisture in the tank I sprayed some misting oil in the tank to stop flash rusting. I never coated the tank only use non ethanol fuel and to this day it is still rust free 😁
@@major__kong I've used a few different liners and they all work equally well