I have often wondered if a mag drill could be made to power a line bore set up and now I know. However, my old Powerbor PB32 is a bit tired for such a task. Top stuff young man. I presume you watch Cutting Edge Engineering (Australia), I C Weld and On Fire Welding? If not, then I can recommend them because they are top channels for repairs, line boring and welding.
I do watch them. Them guys are the reason I started making videos myself. Learnt a lot from watching them, hopefully I might be able to share some useful information too.
I was thinking there's got to be a better way. My mind was wondering towards another clamp with a 1mm pitch screw to push the cutter forward, but your idea much simpler and better.
@@snowballengineering I can’t remember they’re specific name but McMaster car sells threaded square hole inserts for boring bars. Keith Fenner/turnwright machine has part numbers even in one of his videos about boring bars. I think it’s titled “my go to bar”. He’s got some good content he used to do machining in a shipyard.
@@markrainford1219 I use a similar system for my barrel rifling cutter adjustments, the larger calibers I use a pusher screw below the cutter but the smaller calibers are too small for this to work so for them a built a clamp that clamps on the cutter head and has a dial indicator on the cutter side and a super fine thread pusher screw on the other to push the cutter out I can accurately move the cutter .0003 the most I ever move it out is .0005 any more than that and it plugs my chip box in the cutter head. my line bore I am thinking of doing a similar design but for now I'm just moving it by hand, it's a pain but it works.
I like your line borer necessity is the mother of invention cool idea with your grips good way to set the cutter gets the job done you have thought about it fair play to you good job.
I'm happy to have found your channel you have basically answered all my questions and concerns about using a mag drill for line boring. I need to get my pivot on my tractor repaired has about 3/4 inch of slop in the pivot so it's good to see a mag drill working to drive the line boring bar mine is at least variable speed just have to turn the end and cut the flats for the Weldon coupler. Im just not sure if I should weld up the bearing holes then line bore them or line bore first to make the holes round and over sized and make insert sleeves to fit oem bearings at least this way the next time I have to do this all I need to do is knock out the sleeve and turn another and press it back in not sure what is better i do know that trying to turn welded material can be a problem. Thanks for your videos on this subject.🤔🤔👍👍👍👍🍻
A while ago I watched Keith Fenner do some line boring on his lathe. He had some adjustable tool holders in his bar. If you can get hold (or make ) some they would make your life easier when it comes to adjusting the length of the lathe tool. I think they sell them at MSC (USA) but if I can find out the name I'll let you know. He does mention them in one of his vids but I can't locate it. I can probably draw what I mean quicker than I can explain them. Good vid.
I don't know if there is a fixed relationship between the holes you bored and the other pair of holes, but if you had longer plates you could lock into those holes and rest assured you were the correct distance away and only needed to adjust "vertically." You would also be parallel to their centerline if that matters. But good stuff, i enjoyed both videos.
that's what i love about machining your imagination is your limitation and a machine set up is safe or it unsafe your going to see it and do it one way i most likely will do it another but in the end was it safe and was it a good job and sir you are a dam good boiler plate machinist
G’day don’t know if your mag drill has the room but on mine I have a designated plate for the mag drill with a bolt on the side screwed into the magnet of the drill so you can turn the magnet off and it won’t fall. Looks like it worked well though your dial clamp is a nifty idea. I use a digital dial indicator when setting the tool only because it is easier to zero
The inserts are definitely taking a hammering from the heat-affected zone especially as the rpms on the drill are so high... but its working, a bit more refining and you'll have a great system for small money, congrats !! 😎👍☘️🍺
I was quite surprised how much the tiny inserts could take. With the new line boring machine I’ve made thankfully they don’t take as much of a hammering.
I agree I've seen this Kid do some amazing things he doesn't pull punches when doing repairs either he makes it to LAST and that is the sign of a PRO.... from one so young you gott'a love it.... when the word gets out he will be hiring extra hands just to keep up ! his skills will definitely make him rich ! but that takes time!
Love the home made line boring kit. You made a quality job of that repair. Just wondering why you don’t bore the holes closer to finished size and just take the last couple of mm out with the line borer? That headstock share had some abuse
Hi. This is a great video and great bit of work. I have been thinking of building the same setup for a while. I bought a bigger drill with slower speed settings. I have yet to get a bar setup. I was thinking 50mm bar but your size would probably be better to start with. What thpe of bar is yours? I would be concerned about welding when the magdrill is connected to the setup as i think it could damage the magdrill. Did you machine the end of the bar yourself to fit the magdrill?
Hello. Thanks! It’s a great cheap and effective way of getting the job done. I made the bar myself and yes, i machined the end to fit the same as a standard mag drill cutter. It’s difficult to get the plate the drill sticks to in the right place without having the drill already stuck to it.
I know what your saying about the plate but you culd fry the circuit in the drill i think. Is it just chrome bar for a hudraulic bar? That what i was thinking of buying and maybe trying to drill the holes with the magdrill myself as i dont have any engineering machinery like milling machine or lathe etc. What would be the maximum size bore you could safely cut with that size bar you are using?
As long as the welders ground clamp is close to the weld area it isn't a problem. It's when your ground clamp is attached to the work piece at the other end of the shop is when your liable to fry electronics
Can you do a video explaining how you had the bar ? I have a mag drill and thinking of doing the same!. I would assume you did it on a milling machine?
I turned the end down in the lathe to match the size of a normal cutter and used a milling machine to mill the flats. Also drilled the holes in the milling machine.
Lower rpm?? Especially the first cut to save you insert. Plus when adjusting the height of the cutter: make it so that when slightly tighting the grub screw that the insert is just a bit low and than tap it to the desired height. Nice job for a custom diy set up
Unfortunately my mag drill only has one speed. My next set up I’m going to use an eibenstock motor with 2 gears and variable speed. I’ll do that next time, thanks for the advice.
@@snowballengineering do you understand what i meant by tapping the cutter to desired height while it is semi slightly locked? Yes a lower gear would be nice but the cutter is doing a pretty good job cutting all that rough plasma junk.
At 1:31 add an adjusting screw to the bottom of you contraption that measures the insert height. That screw pushes up or keeps the insert at a certain height
@@snowballengineering you should be able to use an external speed controller, you'll lose a bit of torque but I doubt it will be significant although you mentioned upgrading it so maybe a three phase motor and inverter drive is the way to go.
Hello, great video, can you tell me what steel the boring bar is made of, I will try to make such a tool myself, because I can't afford to spend about 20k on a new line boring machine Thank you and best regards
Perhaps you could have some kind of thumb screw on your tool calibration clamp so that you could set it against your tool before you loosen it then you could tighten it to adjust your tool. This would at least give you a positive stop point to hold the tool against while tightening you grub screw. If that makes sense. I could draw it and maybe make it clearer.
Авто/Мото
That shop made line borer is genius!
I absolutely love it ! perfect fit ! and the way you did it is priceless ! Well Done ! that is what I call "using your Brain !"
I have often wondered if a mag drill could be made to power a line bore set up and now I know. However, my old Powerbor PB32 is a bit tired for such a task. Top stuff young man. I presume you watch Cutting Edge Engineering (Australia), I C Weld and On Fire Welding? If not, then I can recommend them because they are top channels for repairs, line boring and welding.
I do watch them. Them guys are the reason I started making videos myself. Learnt a lot from watching them, hopefully I might be able to share some useful information too.
A suggestion ..
Shorten your cutting tool and put a grub screw in the back of the tool hole to push the cutter for fine adjustment.
Good suggestion, thanks
I was thinking there's got to be a better way. My mind was wondering towards another clamp with a 1mm pitch screw to push the cutter forward, but your idea much simpler and better.
@@snowballengineering I can’t remember they’re specific name but McMaster car sells threaded square hole inserts for boring bars. Keith Fenner/turnwright machine has part numbers even in one of his videos about boring bars. I think it’s titled “my go to bar”. He’s got some good content he used to do machining in a shipyard.
I'd be concerned about the tool not being held rigidly enough even expensive commercial line borers do it this way so there's probably a good reason.
@@markrainford1219 I use a similar system for my barrel rifling cutter adjustments, the larger calibers I use a pusher screw below the cutter but the smaller calibers are too small for this to work so for them a built a clamp that clamps on the cutter head and has a dial indicator on the cutter side and a super fine thread pusher screw on the other to push the cutter out I can accurately move the cutter .0003 the most I ever move it out is .0005 any more than that and it plugs my chip box in the cutter head. my line bore I am thinking of doing a similar design but for now I'm just moving it by hand, it's a pain but it works.
Good one . I used to use an old Bux mag drill , it had a low speed gearbox & auto feed to drive a boring bar . 👍
That would of been better. I just used the mag drill we already had.
I like your line borer necessity is the mother of invention cool idea with your grips good way to set the cutter gets the job done you have thought about it fair play to you good job.
I can’t take credit for it, I copied it off someone else’s Id seen. There’s a whole community of us with self made line boring machines.
I'm happy to have found your channel you have basically answered all my questions and concerns about using a mag drill for line boring. I need to get my pivot on my tractor repaired has about 3/4 inch of slop in the pivot so it's good to see a mag drill working to drive the line boring bar mine is at least variable speed just have to turn the end and cut the flats for the Weldon coupler. Im just not sure if I should weld up the bearing holes then line bore them or line bore first to make the holes round and over sized and make insert sleeves to fit oem bearings at least this way the next time I have to do this all I need to do is knock out the sleeve and turn another and press it back in not sure what is better i do know that trying to turn welded material can be a problem. Thanks for your videos on this subject.🤔🤔👍👍👍👍🍻
Mag drill speed looks fast for the cutting but hey you made it work . Well done 👍
I have done my share of line boring with b&d,York, climax & several homemade rigs but buddy that’s a nice cut with a mag drill. Looks good .great job
Thanks, for the few jobs a year I use it, it works great. If I was to do any more I’d look at getting a proper set up.
Very well done! Thanks for the video
good stuff man ! glad i found you.
This is so entertaining - and educational!!! Thanks!
A while ago I watched Keith Fenner do some line boring on his lathe. He had some adjustable tool holders in his bar. If you can get hold (or make ) some they would make your life easier when it comes to adjusting the length of the lathe tool. I think they sell them at MSC (USA) but if I can find out the name I'll let you know. He does mention them in one of his vids but I can't locate it.
I can probably draw what I mean quicker than I can explain them.
Good vid.
I don't know if there is a fixed relationship between the holes you bored and the other pair of holes, but if you had longer plates you could lock into those holes and rest assured you were the correct distance away and only needed to adjust "vertically." You would also be parallel to their centerline if that matters. But good stuff, i enjoyed both videos.
That’s a good idea. Would save some time setting up.
Thanks for watching!
that's what i love about machining your imagination is your limitation and a machine set up is safe or it unsafe your going to see it and do it one way i most likely will do it another but in the end was it safe and was it a good job and sir you are a dam good boiler plate machinist
Is always nice when things go as planned 👌 👍
G’day don’t know if your mag drill has the room but on mine I have a designated plate for the mag drill with a bolt on the side screwed into the magnet of the drill so you can turn the magnet off and it won’t fall. Looks like it worked well though your dial clamp is a nifty idea. I use a digital dial indicator when setting the tool only because it is easier to zero
That’s a good idea, I’ll have to see if I can do similar. Digital dial indicator would be a lot easier than mine.
Nice job !!
I'm definitely guna try and do this well done for this amazing idea
The inserts are definitely taking a hammering from the heat-affected zone especially as the rpms on the drill are so high... but its working, a bit more refining and you'll have a great system for small money, congrats !!
😎👍☘️🍺
I was quite surprised how much the tiny inserts could take. With the new line boring machine I’ve made thankfully they don’t take as much of a hammering.
@@snowballengineering I'll be checking it out presently... as a new Subber, I'm slowly working through your archives... 🤗
😎👍☘🍺
Love the ingenuity of the line biting set up, but the mag drill seems to be running much too fast
It is a bit fast but it only has one speed.
Great channel. It's like a northern British Cutting edge engineering
Thanks!
Your line borer is impressive and very cheap to make, I almost want to make one to try as I already have a mag drill.
What I want to know is why this lad's only got 93 subscribers...
He's got 94 now
☹🇬🇧
Only started making RUclips videos just before Christmas but I’ll get there slowly 😃
Thanks for the support!
3 months later and he has 8k... he's getting there, Glen !! 🤗
😎👍☘️🍺
@@peterfitzpatrick7032
He's a good lad doing stuff right...
☹🇬🇧
I agree I've seen this Kid do some amazing things he doesn't pull punches when doing repairs either he makes it to LAST and that is the sign of a PRO.... from one so young you gott'a love it.... when the word gets out he will be hiring extra hands just to keep up ! his skills will definitely make him rich ! but that takes time!
Gday, new sub here, Max Grant from Swan Valley Machine Shop recommended your channel and glad he did, looking forward to watching more videos, cheers
Awesome, thank you!
One smart guy
Could use this for setting bearings in pipes or plates
Love the home made line boring kit. You made a quality job of that repair. Just wondering why you don’t bore the holes closer to finished size and just take the last couple of mm out with the line borer? That headstock share had some abuse
I like to have plenty of tolerance so there’s no chance of running out of material when boring.
hey nice set up! are the cast bearing blocks accurate enough?
I haven’t had any issue with them yet. Although the bolt holes aren’t accurate enough to take one off and put back on without having to reline again.
Serviço top, você e o Kurtis Do canal Australiano CEE, são os melhores.
Hi. This is a great video and great bit of work. I have been thinking of building the same setup for a while. I bought a bigger drill with slower speed settings. I have yet to get a bar setup. I was thinking 50mm bar but your size would probably be better to start with. What thpe of bar is yours? I would be concerned about welding when the magdrill is connected to the setup as i think it could damage the magdrill. Did you machine the end of the bar yourself to fit the magdrill?
Hello. Thanks! It’s a great cheap and effective way of getting the job done. I made the bar myself and yes, i machined the end to fit the same as a standard mag drill cutter. It’s difficult to get the plate the drill sticks to in the right place without having the drill already stuck to it.
I know what your saying about the plate but you culd fry the circuit in the drill i think. Is it just chrome bar for a hudraulic bar? That what i was thinking of buying and maybe trying to drill the holes with the magdrill myself as i dont have any engineering machinery like milling machine or lathe etc. What would be the maximum size bore you could safely cut with that size bar you are using?
As long as the welders ground clamp is close to the weld area it isn't a problem. It's when your ground clamp is attached to the work piece at the other end of the shop is when your liable to fry electronics
Can you do a video explaining how you had the bar ? I have a mag drill and thinking of doing the same!. I would assume you did it on a milling machine?
I turned the end down in the lathe to match the size of a normal cutter and used a milling machine to mill the flats. Also drilled the holes in the milling machine.
Great job and idea
Very nice fit, excellent job..
Lower rpm?? Especially the first cut to save you insert. Plus when adjusting the height of the cutter: make it so that when slightly tighting the grub screw that the insert is just a bit low and than tap it to the desired height. Nice job for a custom diy set up
Unfortunately my mag drill only has one speed. My next set up I’m going to use an eibenstock motor with 2 gears and variable speed. I’ll do that next time, thanks for the advice.
@@snowballengineering do you understand what i meant by tapping the cutter to desired height while it is semi slightly locked?
Yes a lower gear would be nice but the cutter is doing a pretty good job cutting all that rough plasma junk.
Yes, I understand what you mean, I’ll be doing that next time. Great advice!
At 1:31 add an adjusting screw to the bottom of you contraption that measures the insert height. That screw pushes up or keeps the insert at a certain height
u get the job done thats all that matters
If the ears where slightly bent outward as you said, how does this affect the line bore?
It doesn’t affect it.
Nice set up.👍
Simple but effective
Genius....
That's quite a high speed to run those tools at.
Yes, too fast, but my mag drill only has one speed
@@snowballengineering you should be able to use an external speed controller, you'll lose a bit of torque but I doubt it will be significant although you mentioned upgrading it so maybe a three phase motor and inverter drive is the way to go.
Hello, great video, can you tell me what steel the boring bar is made of, I will try to make such a tool myself, because I can't afford to spend about 20k on a new line boring machine
Thank you and best regards
I just used en8 chrome bar. Nothing fancy. Probably better grades to use but that’s just what I had available.
been thinking of line boring this way for a bit. was going to use 20mm bar for 25mm pins u at durham ? fun got the same magdrill. lol
It works well. I’m at bit lower than Durham, I’m at York.
Perhaps you could have some kind of thumb screw on your tool calibration clamp so that you could set it against your tool before you loosen it then you could tighten it to adjust your tool. This would at least give you a positive stop point to hold the tool against while tightening you grub screw. If that makes sense. I could draw it and maybe make it clearer.
I made mine too...What is your plan to make bores parallel?
Lots of measuring to set reference points
Awesome 😊
How do you center the bar
👍
You can use frequency converter to control the speed, chinese ones from eBay are super cheap.😉
Excellent control of your process. I always wondered after repairing a part if I had reached far enough with the welds.
Почему большие обороты?
What kind of info can you share on your setup?
What info would you like?
Well I'm thinking about getting into line boring and welding. I have a mag drill already. What kind of boring bar and cutter do you have?
@@ernielouallen3093 I made the bar, it’s a bit of 40mm chrome bar. I’m using 8 and 10mm lathe tools for cutters.
Do you think that a bar of Coldplay rolled Steel would do🤔🤔
bagaimana cara pemesanannya alat ini..?🙏
Nice line bor. What did you you use to make the bar??
Form 20:22-21:32 it sounds like a Ford.
Price
Надо выставлять параллельно другим пальцам. Зачем ты выставляешься по ковшу он может быть кривым ?
🔥🦾
Were you talking to yourself or did you intend for others to hear what you had to say?
You need to talk louder and more clearly