Works just like one, so if you have problems just think of what is wrong in a 4L60 and that is what is not working in this unit. Like no 2nd and 4th, it's the band. No reverse, 2nd and 4th, it's the shell.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yep, good point. Keep up the good work. I'm not a proffessional but a very experienced "amateur". Like to learn the different boxes.
2003 INFINITY QX4 4X4 start car it will moved but after a min when the trans fluid warms it will no longer move in any gear. What could this be ? Worn pump ? Funny thing is when i turn the car off for 30 seconds or so it can move again in any gear, then will not longer move after 1 min or so. Every time. BTW great video a real master at work.
Thanks. Filter is more than likely clogged. Usually, the torque converter is coming apart, clogging it up. But it can be anything else coming apart also, doing the same thing.
thanks for the video very helpful,i have a 1998 nissan frontier pickup truck,some time when i put it in drive the truck don't move but it move in 1 and 2 ,what cause that.
please help! Is it possible to have a leak get worse after a fluid and filter change? I'm helping my elderly neighbor with his frontier. Fluid smelled burnt, so he wanted new fluid and filter. I found shavings on the magnet and sludge, as well as brown fluid, I get it all put back together, started it up, and it had a leak from the top of the transmission where it connects to the bellhousing. It already had a small drip before I got to it. It's also been very neglected before he got it. Is it possible I dislodged some gunk that was keeping it a small drip?
hi good day i have a terrano 1998 automatic was drive good then its not sellecting any forward gear only reverse what can be causing this please need some help thanks
Goodnight sir. I have a 2000 frontier 2.4. The reverse works only when the engine is warm about 5 minutes. Im guessing the seals are bad. Can u give and idea ? Thanks very much.
Rebuilding one of these and the planet carrier has roll pins in it to prevent the pins from coming out. They're also all very slightly loose in the holes so the planets have a tiny amount of wiggle caused by the shaft moving slightly in the carrier hole. There is also up and down play but the planets seem to be riding perfectly on their pins. OK to reuse, or should I get a new one?
If the shims are missing replace it. If they are there and the pins don't wobble to bad you can place the planet in the ring gear. Put the sun gear in the planet. This will line the pinions up. You can then weld the pins in place.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Any experience with the transtar planets? One of the roll pins was actually broken so that pin (and therefore planet gear) had more play than the others. Not too expensive to replace for peace of mind.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ordered Transtar planet assembly. While I got you here, these grooves under the (worn) reverse drum bushing mean I need a new reverse drum correct...? I can feel them with my fingernail. i.imgur.com/iXoCoGN.jpg Really appreciate the advice, not sure if this would result in issues after replacing the bushing or is just normal wear...
Yes it needs to be replaced. Look close at the stator rings where that rides. Sometimes you can fix the ring lands with a file, usually the stator will need to replaced also. For hard parts like that I would deal with either Slauson's or Bishop's. Links are in the later videos.
I have a 98 frontier. All gears work including 4th under 40 mph. Anything more and it jumps back into 3rd. It also shifts back into 4th if you let off the throttle. There is no slipping. In your opinion does that sound like the end plugs, thanks in advance.
Maybe. Sounds more like a TPS problem or maybe a dropping resistor. Are the all the shifts on time or late? Any codes? Even if the light is off it does not mean there are no codes.
@CurmudgeonTransmission Only codes are for o2 and evap purge solenoid. 1-2 shift seems to be real early and quick if that makes sense. 2-3 is good as is 3-4 when it does it. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
Strange as it may sound I would fix those 2 codes first. I have seen O2 codes give problems, not just on Nissan's. Nissan also ties in the TPS with the purge and MAP sensors also. So start there.
Just a conclusion on what happened to me and hopefully, it will help someone else. I ordered a shift kit from transgo, which included a lockup control valve end plug. In the directions, it tells you that if broke it can cause no 4th gear. Now keep in mind this is the RL not the RE, they have different valve bodies. Anyhow, I replaced the end plug and now I have 4th gear and it goes through all gears great. The shift kit I bought was $60 online. Hopefully this helps someone.
I am rebuilding one of these from a 2004 Nissan Xterra that had no reverse, i bought a new reverse drum, new pump, and new torque converter and a new complete rebuild kit with new steels and clutches all seals ect from Transpac , the accumulator seals the kit came with were D rings and the kit came with O rings too well if i put the D rings on those plastic acumulators will not go back in amd if i use the o rings the accumulators seem tight. i got a few duplicate parts in this kit or parts for another version of this transmission, mabey they are supposed to be this way?
I have a 2001 Frontier, and the trans just started some weird stuff. My son has been driving it, started not gong into reverse, he added fluid, then it started stalling instantly when put in gear, checked fluid, was over filled, removed to proper level. Next day, same issue no reverse and he drove it 30 miles. I went to look at it and it has very loud grinding noises in all gears and has no movement in any gear, just grinding noises get louder. I can not roll the truck backwards, only forwards. Do you feel this can be rebuilt or possibly damaged beyond rebuilding? Thanks for the awesome channel.
Thanks for watching. You never know until you get in there. Sounds like the planetary gears have come apart. Should be rebuildable but like I said, won't know until you get it apart.
So I got a 2 wheel drive 02 model an a 4x4 . Mine has a input speed sensor for the shaft . The 2 does not. Will it shift right if I don't have that sensor?
No. The computer will put it in failsafe mode. You can use all the parts from the other unit though, in the case that has the sensor. You will need the pump, input shaft and wiring harness from the original unit though.
There are several converters for both. There will be a letter stamp on the face of the converter, needs to be the same. Different stall speeds for different engines. Mixing them up will give you codes as well as driveability issues.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission my issue is I don’t have the original TCC. It’s a RL from a 2004. I’ve narrowed down to why my rebuilt trans is having issues. It has the wrong TCC 🤦🏽♂️
Transtar # is DA31, Precision of New Hampton 6756. There should be a stamp of 49, A, A49, A52, A53 or A59 on it. This unit I believe is on the flywheel side. With the converter sitting on its face, with the hub pointed up, the last set of dimples should be leaning slightly left.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for the reply. This would be before a rebuild. I'm diagnosing a flare from 2-3 and a 1.5 second delay after selecting drive. So far 4th gear is solid.
Probably just time for a rebuild. The rubber seals get hard on these after a while causing delays and shifting issues. The clutches, especially the forwards and reverse start flaking off. What year and how many miles?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission That makes sense. It is a 2000 infiniti Q45 with 134k miles. Do you recommend a shift kit in addition? I was successful with the RE4FO2A rebuild on my 89 maxima. Your videos really helped.
Glad they helped. Sorry took so long to get back to you. Been a rough few days. You have the JR403E in that. It looks identical but the parts are all physically larger. I don't put valve body kits in those or the RE4R01A. They work fine the way they are, at least for me. Leave the valve body gaskets off unless it is a bonded plate.
Hello sir I'm glad I found your channel. My wife's 2004 Nissan Xterra with the RE4R01A automatic transmission makes a light grinding noise right before it shifts to a higher gear after warm up. At 60,000 miles I dropped the pan and changed filter and added same amount of fluid I removed. At 100,000 miles I just did a drain and fill . Then at 120,000 I did another drain and fill because the car had been sitting for a year waiting on me to finish rebuilding the engine . Now the engine runs like new except for this transmission issue. Could it be the torque converter. I did forget to grease the area where the torque converter meets the crankshaft. Or could it me the Valvoline maxlife I've been using since the 60,000 mile fluid change. Should I use a friction modifier or go back with OEM Nissan matic d fluid. Any tips would be appreciated.
Noises are hard to diagnose even when you are there to hear them. Did the noise start after you started changing fluid? Is it just the one shift? This unit is not as particular about what fluid you use. My personal one I used Dex III for the first 150,000. Now the shop uses a full synthetic and that is what I have been using in it and am at 240,000 now. It does not get driven as much any more but it has been one of the best vehicles I have owned. Wouldn't have one of the new ones though.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for replying. It makes the clicking sound right before going into the next gear. I had.a hard time getting the engine to line up when installing. Could I have damaged the inside of the converter if it was jammed in by force when I finally got the engine to mate up?
Usually if the torque converter is not lined up correctly you break the pump gear. I would look at maybe the shield between the engine and the transmission. Without being able to hear it it will be very hard to say. Since it is right before a shift maybe it has to do with RPM and not the shift itself. Is it every shift? Have you tried revving the engine sitting still?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes noise is before every shift but not when its below operating temperature. No clicking sound when revving during park or neutral. I'm going to remove the dust shield your speaking about temporarily because the silicone caulking from the factory dried up and I didn't reapply. So maybe thats the rattle sound right before the shifts. If I did damage the pump is it replaceable and a straight up install since its right in front of transmission?
I don't think you damaged the pump but yes it is a pretty easy swap. Stand it up on it's tail to help keep from unloading the drums. I would be looking at the shield or the bendix in the starter.
Dunno if anyone else can relate but when you’re troubleshooting a gearbox these videos are gold.
Thanks
The interior stackup almost makes me think the 4L60 design engineer went to work for Jatco and tooks his notes with him.
Works just like one, so if you have problems just think of what is wrong in a 4L60 and that is what is not working in this unit. Like no 2nd and 4th, it's the band. No reverse, 2nd and 4th, it's the shell.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yep, good point. Keep up the good work. I'm not a proffessional but a very experienced "amateur". Like to learn the different boxes.
2003 INFINITY QX4 4X4 start car it will moved but after a min when the trans fluid warms it will no longer move in any gear. What could this be ? Worn pump ? Funny thing is when i turn the car off for 30 seconds or so it can move again in any gear, then will not longer move after 1 min or so. Every time. BTW great video a real master at work.
Thanks. Filter is more than likely clogged. Usually, the torque converter is coming apart, clogging it up. But it can be anything else coming apart also, doing the same thing.
thanks for the video very helpful,i have a 1998 nissan frontier pickup truck,some time when i put it in drive the truck don't move but it move in 1 and 2 ,what cause that.
Sounds like a sprag going bad.
please help!
Is it possible to have a leak get worse after a fluid and filter change? I'm helping my elderly neighbor with his frontier. Fluid smelled burnt, so he wanted new fluid and filter. I found shavings on the magnet and sludge, as well as brown fluid, I get it all put back together, started it up, and it had a leak from the top of the transmission where it connects to the bellhousing. It already had a small drip before I got to it. It's also been very neglected before he got it. Is it possible I dislodged some gunk that was keeping it a small drip?
Yes it is possible to create problems or make them worse when changing the fluid under those conditions.
@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you. I believe I just overfilled it and it came out of the overflow. Fluid level is staying consistent otherwise
hi good day i have a terrano 1998 automatic was drive good then its not sellecting any forward gear only reverse what can be causing this please need some help thanks
Time for a rebuild. Minimum sounds like a bad sprag and/or forward clutches.
Hello sir, would you need to remove the valve body to replace the output shaft?
No you do not.
Goodnight sir. I have a 2000 frontier 2.4. The reverse works only when the engine is warm about 5 minutes. Im guessing the seals are bad. Can u give and idea ? Thanks very much.
You are probably right. Time for a rebuild.
Thank you
Rebuilding one of these and the planet carrier has roll pins in it to prevent the pins from coming out. They're also all very slightly loose in the holes so the planets have a tiny amount of wiggle caused by the shaft moving slightly in the carrier hole. There is also up and down play but the planets seem to be riding perfectly on their pins. OK to reuse, or should I get a new one?
If the shims are missing replace it. If they are there and the pins don't wobble to bad you can place the planet in the ring gear. Put the sun gear in the planet. This will line the pinions up. You can then weld the pins in place.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Any experience with the transtar planets? One of the roll pins was actually broken so that pin (and therefore planet gear) had more play than the others. Not too expensive to replace for peace of mind.
I prefer to deal with Transtar for parts. WIT is second.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ordered Transtar planet assembly. While I got you here, these grooves under the (worn) reverse drum bushing mean I need a new reverse drum correct...? I can feel them with my fingernail. i.imgur.com/iXoCoGN.jpg Really appreciate the advice, not sure if this would result in issues after replacing the bushing or is just normal wear...
Yes it needs to be replaced. Look close at the stator rings where that rides. Sometimes you can fix the ring lands with a file, usually the stator will need to replaced also. For hard parts like that I would deal with either Slauson's or Bishop's. Links are in the later videos.
I have a 98 frontier. All gears work including 4th under 40 mph. Anything more and it jumps back into 3rd. It also shifts back into 4th if you let off the throttle. There is no slipping. In your opinion does that sound like the end plugs, thanks in advance.
Maybe. Sounds more like a TPS problem or maybe a dropping resistor. Are the all the shifts on time or late? Any codes? Even if the light is off it does not mean there are no codes.
@CurmudgeonTransmission Only codes are for o2 and evap purge solenoid. 1-2 shift seems to be real early and quick if that makes sense. 2-3 is good as is 3-4 when it does it. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
Strange as it may sound I would fix those 2 codes first. I have seen O2 codes give problems, not just on Nissan's. Nissan also ties in the TPS with the purge and MAP sensors also. So start there.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Will look further into them codes. Thanks again.
Just a conclusion on what happened to me and hopefully, it will help someone else. I ordered a shift kit from transgo, which included a lockup control valve end plug. In the directions, it tells you that if broke it can cause no 4th gear. Now keep in mind this is the RL not the RE, they have different valve bodies. Anyhow, I replaced the end plug and now I have 4th gear and it goes through all gears great. The shift kit I bought was $60 online. Hopefully this helps someone.
I am rebuilding one of these from a 2004 Nissan Xterra that had no reverse, i bought a new reverse drum, new pump, and new torque converter and a new complete rebuild kit with new steels and clutches all seals ect from Transpac , the accumulator seals the kit came with were D rings and the kit came with O rings too well if i put the D rings on those plastic acumulators will not go back in amd if i use the o rings the accumulators seem tight. i got a few duplicate parts in this kit or parts for another version of this transmission, mabey they are supposed to be this way?
Never seen the accumulators take D-rings, always take O-rings. They will be pretty tight. As long as you can push them in by hand should be ok.
I have a 2001 Frontier, and the trans just started some weird stuff. My son has been driving it, started not gong into reverse, he added fluid, then it started stalling instantly when put in gear, checked fluid, was over filled, removed to proper level. Next day, same issue no reverse and he drove it 30 miles. I went to look at it and it has very loud grinding noises in all gears and has no movement in any gear, just grinding noises get louder. I can not roll the truck backwards, only forwards. Do you feel this can be rebuilt or possibly damaged beyond rebuilding? Thanks for the awesome channel.
Thanks for watching. You never know until you get in there. Sounds like the planetary gears have come apart. Should be rebuildable but like I said, won't know until you get it apart.
Can u swap the shaft out of a 2 wheel drive an make it 4 wheel? Is the vb set up to shift the same?
Yes. Everything is the same. Just swap shaft and tail housing.
So I got a 2 wheel drive 02 model an a 4x4 . Mine has a input speed sensor for the shaft . The 2 does not. Will it shift right if I don't have that sensor?
No. The computer will put it in failsafe mode. You can use all the parts from the other unit though, in the case that has the sensor. You will need the pump, input shaft and wiring harness from the original unit though.
Is there a difference with the RL4R01A and RE4r01a torque converters?
There are several converters for both. There will be a letter stamp on the face of the converter, needs to be the same. Different stall speeds for different engines. Mixing them up will give you codes as well as driveability issues.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission my issue is I don’t have the original TCC. It’s a RL from a 2004. I’ve narrowed down to why my rebuilt trans is having issues. It has the wrong TCC 🤦🏽♂️
Give me all the particulars, year, make, model, engine size. I will see what I can find out.
2004 Nissan Frontier XE 2.4L automatic RWD with a RL trans
Transtar # is DA31, Precision of New Hampton 6756. There should be a stamp of 49, A, A49, A52, A53 or A59 on it. This unit I believe is on the flywheel side. With the converter sitting on its face, with the hub pointed up, the last set of dimples should be leaning slightly left.
Do yall sell rebuilt transmissions? 2000 Nissan frontier 4cyl auto?
No we do not.
Tom how are you sir? Would the valve end plug issue cause the slow 2-3 engagement and late drive engagement? Thanks. Mike.
If you are talking about the 2 that I say can crack, they cause a no 4th or a slip in 4th. Is this before or after a rebuild?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for the reply. This would be before a rebuild. I'm diagnosing a flare from 2-3 and a 1.5 second delay after selecting drive. So far 4th gear is solid.
Probably just time for a rebuild. The rubber seals get hard on these after a while causing delays and shifting issues. The clutches, especially the forwards and reverse start flaking off. What year and how many miles?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission That makes sense. It is a 2000 infiniti Q45 with 134k miles. Do you recommend a shift kit in addition? I was successful with the RE4FO2A rebuild on my 89 maxima. Your videos really helped.
Glad they helped. Sorry took so long to get back to you. Been a rough few days. You have the JR403E in that. It looks identical but the parts are all physically larger. I don't put valve body kits in those or the RE4R01A. They work fine the way they are, at least for me. Leave the valve body gaskets off unless it is a bonded plate.
Hello sir I'm glad I found your channel. My wife's 2004 Nissan Xterra with the RE4R01A automatic transmission makes a light grinding noise right before it shifts to a higher gear after warm up. At 60,000 miles I dropped the pan and changed filter and added same amount of fluid I removed. At 100,000 miles I just did a drain and fill . Then at 120,000 I did another drain and fill because the car had been sitting for a year waiting on me to finish rebuilding the engine . Now the engine runs like new except for this transmission issue. Could it be the torque converter. I did forget to grease the area where the torque converter meets the crankshaft. Or could it me the Valvoline maxlife I've been using since the 60,000 mile fluid change. Should I use a friction modifier or go back with OEM Nissan matic d fluid. Any tips would be appreciated.
Noises are hard to diagnose even when you are there to hear them. Did the noise start after you started changing fluid? Is it just the one shift? This unit is not as particular about what fluid you use. My personal one I used Dex III for the first 150,000. Now the shop uses a full synthetic and that is what I have been using in it and am at 240,000 now. It does not get driven as much any more but it has been one of the best vehicles I have owned. Wouldn't have one of the new ones though.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for replying. It makes the clicking sound right before going into the next gear. I had.a hard time getting the engine to line up when installing. Could I have damaged the inside of the converter if it was jammed in by force when I finally got the engine to mate up?
Usually if the torque converter is not lined up correctly you break the pump gear. I would look at maybe the shield between the engine and the transmission. Without being able to hear it it will be very hard to say. Since it is right before a shift maybe it has to do with RPM and not the shift itself. Is it every shift? Have you tried revving the engine sitting still?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes noise is before every shift but not when its below operating temperature. No clicking sound when revving during park or neutral. I'm going to remove the dust shield your speaking about temporarily because the silicone caulking from the factory dried up and I didn't reapply. So maybe thats the rattle sound right before the shifts. If I did damage the pump is it replaceable and a straight up install since its right in front of transmission?
I don't think you damaged the pump but yes it is a pretty easy swap. Stand it up on it's tail to help keep from unloading the drums. I would be looking at the shield or the bendix in the starter.
Awesome video.! At least I tear down the tranny and found the damage inside it.. I can get the parts or get a good one.. Thanks Much.! jv
Thanks for watching.