I wouldn't have half the understanding of working on BMWs if it wasn't for your channel thank you for not only providing maintenance guides but also detailed performance explanations
@@zaarkeru3391 It only has a screen that wouldn't catch small metal particles. Only chunks of gasket, large flakes, debris, etc.. You should have the pump cleaned or replaced in an ideal scenario.
I learned from my grandpa 30 years back that ring gaps must be 120 degrees between each other, so basically gaps of all 3 rings will form a n imaginary triangle when you look from the top of the piston.
Why though? Wouldn't putting the gaps 180 degrees away from each other ensure that they are as far away from each other as possible, so that each successive gap is as far away from the previous ring's blow-by as possible.
I think an unmentioned goal of ring gap staggering is for cylinder wear purposes. If you do 180, 180, 180, you'll have two rings with end gaps riding on the same area of the cylinder wall.. If you do 120,120,120 you ensure each gap is as far as possible from any other.
Skipped over line honing when installing main studs, was curious on a take on that. I'm just going to assume the crank was balanced as an assembly with the rods and pistons?
I'll never forget back when I was working at Toyota there was a Rav4 that came in as a PDI and was misfiring in only 1 cylinder. Ended up being the piston rings were lined up🤦♂️ always wondered who dropped the ball at the factory
Did you have to replace the liners? I thought the new gen motors used that arkwire cylinder plating which doesn’t use a cross hatch. I see there is now a cross hatch in the cylinders.
Hello, I want to change my camshaft but I don't know where to get the tool to block the vanos! I see tools for other bmw engines like n55 but I don't know if they will be compatible whit the b58 vanos !!
So what are those bearings coated with PTFE? PEEK? and what thickness of oil film do they assume / type of oil? [we saw the plastigauge, but what's nominal?] TIA
Why not use the plastie gauge on the rod bearings? With all the aftermarket parts seems as if the most worrisome clearances for oil flow would be there and mains.. just curious, I am not a professional.
You are correct, good tuning and proper fueling. We had some fuel issues on this car that resulted in fuel in the oil washing down the bearing surfaces and causing the damage due to lack of proper lubrication
Could have halved the distance the crank traveled at tdc and split the distance for true tdc. Would have been a good tool for measuring chain wear in the future.
I'm aiming at making around 750whp reliably with a Gen1 B58. I'm about to pull the trigger on CP Carrillo pistons plus new bearings. Would it be wise to change the bore (82mm) and compression ratio (11:1)?
I personally don’t trust plastigauge that much because of my anxiety of “is this really in spec or not” and not seeing a solid number. my practically scared self orders dial bore gauges and micrometers. And go by inner diameter of the main crank bore on the engine and the inner diameter of the big end of the connecting with bearing installed on both MINUS the circumference crank main and rod journals after torquing everything to full torque That’ll give me a solid number that I can confidently write down and track just in case I have to go back to it. But I do use plastigauge to double check if my numbers are even in the ball park of what I want or within the Specs I need
Why wouldn't you be able to resurface the rod journals and adjust the rod bearing size? Is it because to much material would need to be removed from the crankshaft?
There are no "undersized" rod bearings available for the B58 crankshaft. Because of this, It is not possible to repair the crank by grinding alone. Theoretically. the crank journal can be welded first and then ground back to factory spec.. However, that is a very specialized process you will not find on short notice. That process generally costs more than just buying an entirely new and flawless crank from BMW. There are some "oversized" rod bearings available. Meaning, it IS possible to repair a damaged connecting rod by boring the big end, and using said "oversized" bearing. It is important to understand the difference on bearing dimensions, there is a lot of misunderstanding of sizing terminology. As applied to connecting rod bearings: Undersized, meaning the inner diameter of bearing shells is tighter to compensate for ground off crank material, outer diameter of bearing shells remain the same. Oversized, meaning the outer diameter of bearing shells is larger to compensate for a larger connecting rod bore, inner diameter of bearing shells remains the same.
fueling, uprate the suspension, stiffen the body, uprate the brakes, wider tires, staggered, downforce needed, reliability, it's not just building an engie, but then...... you knew that right
Yeah I didn’t see any cleaning of bearings, weighing the rotating assembly, any clearance measurements, etc. Hopefully all measurements and cleaning was done off camera. If not i don’t see it lasting long lol
yes you did build the engine but you share things that are standard, there is nothing special, you just let us know that that you know how to build an engine
Dawg... PlastiGauge, no micrometers, no weighing of the reciprocating components, no crank endplay measurement, no cleaning of the bearings, just trusting everything out of the box. Is this a junkyard LS build?
See that's the bs part, 4k worth of bottom engine parts, it's a 6 cylinder...that's just insane and stupid. Awesome video but the cost of parts for the bmw engines are out of control
@Zaarker U if you look up bmw parts ALL are crazy expensive, not just "race" engines. Really any decent forged rod/piston combo(even cheap ones) on a 6 cylinder can handle 800hp, that's 133hp per cylinder. You'll easily spend almost or over 3k just for regular upgraded parts not including a crank, that's insane even if BMW is on the badge that's what I'm saying
@@mythos000000025 First off, it is torque and cylinder pressure that kill rods, cranks, and pistons. HP per liter means almost nothing with regards to the rotating assembly. any rotating assembly can theoretically make any amount of HP per liter so long as the torque is limited. Just apply extra RPM... That's all HP is. (e.g. Honda S2000. the only reason it competes with a LaFerrari for HP per liter, is because it revs to the moon, but makes no torque.). More importantly is Brake Mean Effective Pressure. Of which, FCPs B58 is likely well over 400PSI. For reference, the BMEP of a McLaren 765LT is only about 360PSI. That stock engine was dealing with pressure levels you don't see until you are looking at a Koengisegg, and it was ripping around a track at full tilt for hours and hours. Hope this gets across what I am saying. Anyway, the B58 crank is forged steel from the factory. Nothing to upgrade, nobody has reached the limit. The stock B58 rotating assembly can handle wild power levels for a regular street build, so long as there are no lubrication issues and torque is managed. The failure is an error on FCPs end. There are VERY few engines that can compete in stock form at the present day. To build ANY engine that reliably makes that 100% output at full boost and full engine RPM for a prolonged period, like a race car, drift car, marine engine, or aircraft engine, this $3K cost for aftermarket parts is pretty average. For a 6 cylinder, you say this is insane and stupid... Go ask the guys who build Nissan RBs, 2JZs, Barras, Porche flat-6s, ford ECO boosts, etc.. The words "any decent forged rod/piston combo" do not go together with the word "cheap". CP Carillo makes these same parts for just about any performance engine. They will never be cheap, that has nothing to do with BMW. The other guy above me is right. The BMW engine was basically a "race engine" stock. Only needed 3K of upgrades to survive like that, where another engine would need an entirely new block, reinforcement, better cooling, better oiling, etc.. I agree many BMW parts are overpriced. So are any parts you buy direct from the manufacturer or dealer. But, you can buy all of the stock engine parts directly from the suppliers and they become the same as anyone else for what they are.
@@chrispetty5058 there’s a lifetime but if prices inflate and you wanna claim the warranty, you will pay the difference if the price increased. So if you get a item that was 100 this month and in a year the part fails, you need to warranty it out. Say the price went up 25 bucks and is 125 when the part fails. You have to pay 125, the extra 25 for new item then they’ll send replacement. Everything will stay the same for items purchased before Nov 2022 I believe. Anything after that is subject to the price difference do to inflation. I’ve bought everything for my car from them, and they’re one of the reasons I got my car 2-1/2 years ago due to the lifetime warranty of practically everything they sell. The reason they did this, because people were changing parts before their useful life. Such as changing plugs and coils out every oil change, it was hurting their profit margins I’m sure. One bad eggs spoils the bunch I guess.
Well maybe this might help put it to perspective. So when it comes to oem parts ,dealers have to pay the manufacture “cost”. They have no control of this price only the mark up. I have seen where a manufacture on Friday had a high pressure pump cost $450 then on Monday it at cost the $1500. This is before the dealer can price it to make a profit. This also is on a part has zero changes/improvements made to it. Now if you as a customer purchased that pump for the suggested price at say $600 previously and now the price is $1750 that sucks for sure. . There clearly is difference the dealer/business cannot afford to eat the $1000 difference. But from what I’ve seen it’s mostly out of there control. I have also seen an engine that cost $3500 on Friday go to $5600 on Monday. What sucks is I f it was not build to a ticket/PO/RO on Friday, the dealer price on Monday would be $5600 before any mark up and the estimate will need to change. Hope this helps.
Been contemplating big turbo. Having these videos sealed the deal!
I wouldn't have half the understanding of working on BMWs if it wasn't for your channel thank you for not only providing maintenance guides but also detailed performance explanations
Tyler in the house ! Way to go, your a natural at this type of instruction.
I am surprised you guys used the old oil pump, especially knowing it ingested debris.
Doesn't the B58 have a pre-filter in the pump inlet?
Just clean it thoroughly
@@zaarkeru3391 It only has a screen that wouldn't catch small metal particles. Only chunks of gasket, large flakes, debris, etc.. You should have the pump cleaned or replaced in an ideal scenario.
Great quality videos, the most informative on RUclips 100%.
Appreciate that!
What a hell of a video guys, super informative and concise. Thank hanks a ton!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ooh...
That B58 engine assembly video looks so awesome! Also, the process is very detailed and interesting to watch.^^
Great insight and lovely to see a hydraulic steering pump mated up to the block.
Much appreciated video guys.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I really love the FCP euro Channel and their very excellent how to videos!
Thank you for checking our work out, Greg!
I learned from my grandpa 30 years back that ring gaps must be 120 degrees between each other, so basically gaps of all 3 rings will form a n imaginary triangle when you look from the top of the piston.
Why though? Wouldn't putting the gaps 180 degrees away from each other ensure that they are as far away from each other as possible, so that each successive gap is as far away from the previous ring's blow-by as possible.
@@sepg5084 how do you put 3 gaps 180° apart from one another?
I think an unmentioned goal of ring gap staggering is for cylinder wear purposes. If you do 180, 180, 180, you'll have two rings with end gaps riding on the same area of the cylinder wall.. If you do 120,120,120 you ensure each gap is as far as possible from any other.
I learned from Steve Morris that it doesn't really matter as the piston rings rotate.
@@DriftNickIt's true that they rotate, but if you start with them apart, it's not likely that they will all rotate into a line.
Skipped over line honing when installing main studs, was curious on a take on that. I'm just going to assume the crank was balanced as an assembly with the rods and pistons?
I'll never forget back when I was working at Toyota there was a Rav4 that came in as a PDI and was misfiring in only 1 cylinder. Ended up being the piston rings were lined up🤦♂️ always wondered who dropped the ball at the factory
Loved this video series
These videos are great, thank you!
Just want to give the heads up that the description says JE Pistons and Connecting rods, Which indeed these are CP. Solid video though.
Did you have to replace the liners? I thought the new gen motors used that arkwire cylinder plating which doesn’t use a cross hatch. I see there is now a cross hatch in the cylinders.
Even with Plasma Transfer Wire Arc, or other spray plating - they still employ a cross hatch.
I’m curious as well since the welded material “liner” is very durable but also very thin and honing will also thin it out.
The block in this video is sleeved. The factory LDS sprayed liners cannot be re-honed.
Hello, I want to change my camshaft but I don't know where to get the tool to block the vanos! I see tools for other bmw engines like n55 but I don't know if they will be compatible whit the b58 vanos !!
What did yall used to seal the oil pan? In the process of doing a motor swap with a 340 but got a motor from a 5 series and have to switch oil pan.
So what are those bearings coated with PTFE? PEEK? and what thickness of oil film do they assume / type of oil? [we saw the plastigauge, but what's nominal?] TIA
CP pistons in my EVO and can't fault them. Didn't use the rods as it's a long rod 2 Ltr.
Why not use the plastie gauge on the rod bearings? With all the aftermarket parts seems as if the most worrisome clearances for oil flow would be there and mains.. just curious, I am not a professional.
How come you didn’t show the timing chains install?
what would you do if the plastigauge shows that the fitment is incorrect? do you need different bearings?
yes you get thicker or slimmrt bearings
Can you get a drop in piston rod set? Or do you have to get the crank balanced?
What about the crankshaft idler? why did you use aftermarket instead of stock in this application ?
There's a select few people hitting 700bhp+ on stock internals.. Crazy to believe although I think that magic comes from the tuner.
Good number of cars in germany running 800+ reliably on stock internals for a while
You are correct, good tuning and proper fueling. We had some fuel issues on this car that resulted in fuel in the oil washing down the bearing surfaces and causing the damage due to lack of proper lubrication
@@fcpeuro I was wondering why the new crank, seemed overkill.
Wasnt F30 running EPS already?
What’s the spec value for these aftermarket rods vs the OEM forged rods ?
Tensile & yield strength e.g.
can u plsa do one for the audi 3.0t b9
Could have halved the distance the crank traveled at tdc and split the distance for true tdc. Would have been a good tool for measuring chain wear in the future.
I dont understand. Can u explain me a let of more. I want to learn about this.
I'm aiming at making around 750whp reliably with a Gen1 B58. I'm about to pull the trigger on CP Carrillo pistons plus new bearings. Would it be wise to change the bore (82mm) and compression ratio (11:1)?
What did you end up getting
Be me assembling a Chrysler 200 engine that had a blown head gasket, using JB weld to fill in part of the head that had a crack: 😎
Did you lower the compression ratio from factory for that turbo setup?
I personally don’t trust plastigauge that much because of my anxiety of “is this really in spec or not” and not seeing a solid number. my practically scared self orders dial bore gauges and micrometers. And go by inner diameter of the main crank bore on the engine and the inner diameter of the big end of the connecting with bearing installed on both MINUS the circumference crank main and rod journals after torquing everything to full torque That’ll give me a solid number that I can confidently write down and track just in case I have to go back to it. But I do use plastigauge to double check if my numbers are even in the ball park of what I want or within the Specs I need
Do you guys sale the pistons and connecting rods for the b58?
Would of been a better video if you guys mentioned the torque specs but pretty informative
Oil pump pulley is left hand thread......so your actually making it tighter
Why wouldn't you be able to resurface the rod journals and adjust the rod bearing size? Is it because to much material would need to be removed from the crankshaft?
There are no "undersized" rod bearings available for the B58 crankshaft. Because of this, It is not possible to repair the crank by grinding alone. Theoretically. the crank journal can be welded first and then ground back to factory spec.. However, that is a very specialized process you will not find on short notice. That process generally costs more than just buying an entirely new and flawless crank from BMW.
There are some "oversized" rod bearings available. Meaning, it IS possible to repair a damaged connecting rod by boring the big end, and using said "oversized" bearing.
It is important to understand the difference on bearing dimensions, there is a lot of misunderstanding of sizing terminology.
As applied to connecting rod bearings:
Undersized, meaning the inner diameter of bearing shells is tighter to compensate for ground off crank material, outer diameter of bearing shells remain the same.
Oversized, meaning the outer diameter of bearing shells is larger to compensate for a larger connecting rod bore, inner diameter of bearing shells remains the same.
Hey,
Can someone come in clutch and tell me the OAL of the studs for this engine?
Thanks!
fueling, uprate the suspension, stiffen the body, uprate the brakes, wider tires, staggered, downforce needed, reliability, it's not just building an engie, but then...... you knew that right
How long do these built motors last in terms of mileage?
Is that a virgin block? What happened to the old one?
how much does this job cost ? If you guys did it
Killer teachings
Will it blow up again?
Napier ring that's that T-pain ring that Nappy boy ring
this video is sponsored by liqui moly :D
Why aren't you wearing work gloves?, won't oils from hands possibly contaminate parts?.
Bro tf?
Lol no
High HP engine build with all new parts and not a micrometer in sight… Yikes! 😬
Yeah I didn’t see any cleaning of bearings, weighing the rotating assembly, any clearance measurements, etc. Hopefully all measurements and cleaning was done off camera. If not i don’t see it lasting long lol
Stock gen 2 holding 1000whp stock long block.. soo
yes you did build the engine but you share things that are standard, there is nothing special, you just let us know that that you know how to build an engine
800hp bro the 2jz does 800hp standard internals
Dawg... PlastiGauge, no micrometers, no weighing of the reciprocating components, no crank endplay measurement, no cleaning of the bearings, just trusting everything out of the box. Is this a junkyard LS build?
I'm surprised this is the only comment I found about weighing the components.
it's such an easy step to do for some extra peace of mind
Get a RUclips Channel already! Post some content, even if it just talking cars!
He said at some point of the video that they've already done some things, like ring gap, cleanig and the measurement.
Bro that killed my motivation of even starting to watch
Ummm! My X5 with 800hp+????!!!!!!
See that's the bs part, 4k worth of bottom engine parts, it's a 6 cylinder...that's just insane and stupid. Awesome video but the cost of parts for the bmw engines are out of control
I mean, its a race engine...
Everything racing spec is crazy expensive.
@Zaarker U if you look up bmw parts ALL are crazy expensive, not just "race" engines. Really any decent forged rod/piston combo(even cheap ones) on a 6 cylinder can handle 800hp, that's 133hp per cylinder. You'll easily spend almost or over 3k just for regular upgraded parts not including a crank, that's insane even if BMW is on the badge that's what I'm saying
@@mythos000000025 First off, it is torque and cylinder pressure that kill rods, cranks, and pistons. HP per liter means almost nothing with regards to the rotating assembly. any rotating assembly can theoretically make any amount of HP per liter so long as the torque is limited. Just apply extra RPM... That's all HP is. (e.g. Honda S2000. the only reason it competes with a LaFerrari for HP per liter, is because it revs to the moon, but makes no torque.). More importantly is Brake Mean Effective Pressure. Of which, FCPs B58 is likely well over 400PSI. For reference, the BMEP of a McLaren 765LT is only about 360PSI. That stock engine was dealing with pressure levels you don't see until you are looking at a Koengisegg, and it was ripping around a track at full tilt for hours and hours. Hope this gets across what I am saying.
Anyway, the B58 crank is forged steel from the factory. Nothing to upgrade, nobody has reached the limit. The stock B58 rotating assembly can handle wild power levels for a regular street build, so long as there are no lubrication issues and torque is managed. The failure is an error on FCPs end. There are VERY few engines that can compete in stock form at the present day. To build ANY engine that reliably makes that 100% output at full boost and full engine RPM for a prolonged period, like a race car, drift car, marine engine, or aircraft engine, this $3K cost for aftermarket parts is pretty average. For a 6 cylinder, you say this is insane and stupid... Go ask the guys who build Nissan RBs, 2JZs, Barras, Porche flat-6s, ford ECO boosts, etc..
The words "any decent forged rod/piston combo" do not go together with the word "cheap". CP Carillo makes these same parts for just about any performance engine. They will never be cheap, that has nothing to do with BMW. The other guy above me is right. The BMW engine was basically a "race engine" stock. Only needed 3K of upgrades to survive like that, where another engine would need an entirely new block, reinforcement, better cooling, better oiling, etc..
I agree many BMW parts are overpriced. So are any parts you buy direct from the manufacturer or dealer. But, you can buy all of the stock engine parts directly from the suppliers and they become the same as anyone else for what they are.
I’m not happy with you FCP... you changed you lifetime guarantee which is ridiculous. 🥺😖😡
Also where’s the builds for engines on other platforms?
What did they change? I went and checked and nothing stood out.
@@chrispetty5058 there’s a lifetime but if prices inflate and you wanna claim the warranty, you will pay the difference if the price increased. So if you get a item that was 100 this month and in a year the part fails, you need to warranty it out. Say the price went up 25 bucks and is 125 when the part fails. You have to pay 125, the extra 25 for new item then they’ll send replacement. Everything will stay the same for items purchased before Nov 2022 I believe. Anything after that is subject to the price difference do to inflation. I’ve bought everything for my car from them, and they’re one of the reasons I got my car 2-1/2 years ago due to the lifetime warranty of practically everything they sell. The reason they did this, because people were changing parts before their useful life. Such as changing plugs and coils out every oil change, it was hurting their profit margins I’m sure. One bad eggs spoils the bunch I guess.
Well maybe this might help put it to perspective. So when it comes to oem parts ,dealers have to pay the manufacture “cost”. They have no control of this price only the mark up.
I have seen where a manufacture on Friday had a high pressure pump cost $450 then on Monday it at cost the $1500. This is before the dealer can price it to make a profit. This also is on a part has zero changes/improvements made to it. Now if you as a customer purchased that pump for the suggested price at say $600 previously and now the price is $1750 that sucks for sure. . There clearly is difference the dealer/business cannot afford to eat the $1000 difference. But from what I’ve seen it’s mostly out of there control.
I have also seen an engine that cost $3500 on Friday go to $5600 on Monday. What sucks is I f it was not build to a ticket/PO/RO on Friday, the dealer price on Monday would be $5600 before any mark up and the estimate will need to change. Hope this helps.