I've been doing a ton of research on Famicoms myself lately and will be looking to pick one up for myself to have a play around. I might know my way around Commodore 64s and NES, but Famicom is still exotic to me! Great work as always Gadget!
Great vid, having recently fixed up 6 of these myself from some ebay finds I was particularly interested in your video. Looking forward to seeing the others restored. BTW use punch on level 1 boss instead of kick ;-)
No SRAM problems for starters, I got lucky there, I had 6 that were already AV modded, but had various issues ranging from noisy player 2 controllers, crusty power jacks, blown pico fuses on later models, faulty on/off switches, and one that had been in a right scrape where the base had a hole in it from an impact that also cracked the back motherboard, I jumpered that motherboard back together carefully and patched up the hole - I was super happy when it turned on. If you go to my twitter the journey starts here on 25/11/16 Cheers Dean twitter.com/lesoleil70/status/802193197241954304
Another fine repair. You probably already know this but I just want to let you know that some EPROM programmer can test RAM chips; my Needhams EMP-20 EPROM programmer can test all sorts of RAM. Even the cheapo TL866CS I own can test certain RAM. It's one of them functions that gets overlooked or isn't well known with EPROM programmer. I.E. being able to test RAM. I know you have a couple or more EPROM programmers, check their manuals or look in the software options maybe one of them can test RAM's, my Needhams EMP-20 EPROM programmer has helped me find dodgy RAM in the past and has saved me a lot of time, just being able to pop a suspected dodgy RAM in its ZIF socket and run a test on it is a god send.
Hey Chris. I recently got a Famicom and AV modded it fine, but there was a buzzing seemingly coming from the microphone on controller 2. So I opened it up, cleaned the contacts, then it buzzed more. So I tried reflowing the wires inside. Then both controllers stopped working haha, so I figured it was the TC40H368P, U7/U8. I tried switching them round, just out of curiosity, but there was just a grey screen, so I put them back to normal. Still a grey screen, noooooooo. I see you say SRAM or CPU for grey screen, what do you think are the chances I've damaged one or both of those? I've left it turned on for a little while and the CPU is hot enough that it hurts when I touch it for more than a second. So I'm guessing CPU. Just wondering what you'd think. Cheers for the free consultation if you reply 😄
For SRAM, its a case of searching for the part number (or equivalents) on eBay, AliExpress or Google (to find small companies). The only other source is faulty Famicoms from eBay.
Great video! In regards to the replacement button membranes search eBay for the white colored membranes. They work just as good as the original membranes and seem to last for a good while. I have two controllers with them installed now for about two years and they've been fine.
Yeah - I covered replacement silicones in the previous few videos (The one where I restored the first famicom I picked up, and the vid covering PC Engine silicons). With those after market silicones you do have to add some padding on top of the d-pad though in order to get diagonals working properly. Did you find that with the ones you used? If not, please post a link to where to buy the ones you used!
GadgetUK164 with these pads I just installed them and never had an issue with the buttons or D-Pad working any different from the original pads. The buttons feel will be stiff at first, but once they break in you'll be fine.
Not yet - but that is a good idea, if I can work out the best way to do that... Perhaps Dremel? I am not 100% sure its electrolyte, I am just going off a research paper I read last year, but I cannot find the damn thing now. Clearly something going on though as the rest of that board is like new, and the corrosion is just on the tops of the pins, and clearly spread inwards in the underside rather than all around the pads etc. So it is very mysterious.
something i would try with the S-RAM is replacing the broken internal cap with an external one. maybe even cut the chip open if the internal one is shorted.
I don't think they have a single interal cap - my undertstanding is there's electrolyte used somewhere in there but in the storage trench - ie. not a capacitor.
I was dubious about the concept of an IC leaking when you mentioned it in a previous video, but it does certainly look like something is going on here. Maybe the SRAM has overheated and something has melted and leaked. I've not heard of these having some form of additional internal capacitance, but that might explain it? I'll keep a look out in future with 2114's and 2115's.
I read a research paper on how SRAM works and in that paper it mentioned 'electrolyte in the storage trench' when describing how they work. I do think this is the case, it's too much of a co-incidence, I've seen it a few times on other 2114 and 2115 chips - not just on that C64 and this Famicom. But - I don't think all SRAMs work exactly the same way and it might only relate to the 2114 and 2115 as I've never seen any other SRAM fail this way.
Maybe there is something else going on - perhaps some other type of chemical reaction or something. I cannot for the life of me find the article I was reading last year. It was a document talking about failure types in older SRAM chips and it did clearly talk about liquid electrolyte in the storage trench. Maybe some reaction to some coating or something, perhaps on the package or the pins. Maybe even flux? I did wonder about temperature and humidity and perhaps it was just normal corrosion, perhaps moisture is attracted to the package body under certain circumstances (ie. temperature changes perhaps). But then again that would be odd, and I would expect corrosion to be slightly wider spread on the board.
You do get similar things happening when the board has got wet or been washed and water is trapped under the ICs, but that would affect all the chips on the board?
I just ordered my famicom a week ago and the SRAM I believe died, the console was getting unusually hot the last time I played it so I stopped but when I turned it on today it was just dead and idk how to get an SRAM replacement
Look at the part number of the SRAM - then search for equivalents for that part number. There will be a few different 6264 (thin type DIL/DIP) ICs that work there.
Where are you buying the s-ram from ? I think the upper left ram is dodgy in my famicom but don’t want to spend crazy money importing chips if it’s not going to cure the problem.
eBay or AliExpress. You might need to search for a list of equivalent ICs for that type of SRAM. There are loads of manufacturers of the same IC with differing part numbers.
Also, I've experienced the exact same wierdness with corrosion on old SRAM chips in vintage computers/consolres. I also see lots of Texas Instrument logic and others from the 80s with leads that tarnish and turn crusty black, but for the most part those seem to still operate just fine. Always wondered what it was that causes some of these chips to seemingly corrode from the inside out, as you would imagine they should be effectively permanently sealed in their epoxy packages.
Are you sure? I've ruled out any electrolyte - apparently a storage trench with electrolyte is only used on DRAM, not SRAM - and someone below said its Ion transfer between plastic and metal pin? It seems there's two theories now lol. Very interesting though!
At any rate, its still an interesting mystery, as I've experienced the same weird failures myself. Also, the silver plating on TI logic certainly makes sense however. Wondered why they chose to use precious silver plating (that would obv. tarnish), if indeed that is what it is? I recall seeing fancy mil-spec 54LS ceramic logic with gold plated pins before so it wouldn't be out of the question I suppose...
Thanks, I use a Samsung R10 - Was £250 new, but they are pretty cheap now! Does 1080p 60ps. www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-R10-Full-Flash-Camcorder/dp/B0023W6QFQ
Great little console, where are you sourcing your gear ? Also with Japanese consoles are there any particular consoles to look for that need different power ( step down converter) i don't want to buy something and kill it strait away. Love the videos as always thumbs up !
There are tonnes of Famicoms on eBay! I never buy them with PSU - they just need 9v DC (make sure you get the polarity correct), so just get a 9v DC 1 or 1.5 amp PSU cheap, then put a 5.5 x 2.1mm jack on it, or swap the socket for a 5.5 x 2.5 and use a 5.5 x 2.5 jack on the PSU too. If you want to use any Japanese PSUs, then you need a step down transformer.
Very interesting to watch; I definitely learn things from your channel. Thanks for doing all these! I'm not good at fixing hardware, but maybe one day! I just tested my turbografx-16 w/CD attachment and I'm not getting any power. Frustrating! Your skills give me hope lol. :)
Check the fuse in the turbografx - I am guessing there's one in there, like there is in the PC Engine? Also check the PSU with using a multimeter, you should get somewhere between 9v DC and 13v DC approximately.
I recently bought it, everything is working well but the screen is black and white; no sound also .. I tried to change the cable sites but no effect , need your help please
No colour is probably due to it being an NTSC system and your TV perhaps supports PAL? The sound I am not sure about, but it could also be related to your TV not liking the NTSC signal and the audio sub carrier.
That's also interesting - you mentioning "Ion transfer between plastic and metal pin" - I must read up on that, it does sound like that is the most likely explanation! Thanks, you seem very knowledgeable! =D
5 лет назад+2
Hi! I have a problem with my famicom. I was trying to do the AV mod and everything go well...But (I dont know how to say this) there was only the "bass" harmonie, the high was gone. excuse my bad english :( Thanks! :D
Assuming you have a Famicom (not a clone) - it sounds like the 500 in 1 cartridge has a fault... You could try cleaning the cartridge gold contacts with a cotton bud and some IPA.
If you really wanted to play with FDS, there is also the option of using the "FDSStick", which is a inexpensive tiny USB emulator that plugs into the RAM adapter in place of the disk drive. You could eliminate the drive altogether if you wanted, downside being you would then have a laptop/PC tethered to your FC. Like Gadget though, I already play FDS off the Everdrive so its never been a high priority for me.
Hi. Does my Famicom power/AC adapter need rewinding or does it need it's capacitor replaced? The adapter is 10v DC but the power/AC adapter is only outputting less than 1v. The specifications are: DC 10v 850mA AC 100v 50/60Hz 18Va Is it the capacitor? The capacitor spec is 16v 2200 microFarads. Thank you in advance. God bless, Psalm 11:7
Hi. The power adapter seems working, there was a break in the wire (near the barrel jack). I just bend that area and taped it. The output DC is now reading 14v There is no power I think still in the Famicom. I checked the Famicom's fuse, it's good (the multitester beeps). What could be a culprit or whats the next component to check? Thank you. God bless, Proverbs 31
@@SevenDeMagnus The switch and the 7805 regulator are next to check! I seem to have lost where your last message was - regards a T8AH250V fuse. You cannot replace that with the 5A one you were looking at. It needs to be T (timed) 250V 8A as far as I can see. I am guessing something like this:- www.amazon.co.uk/Witonics-T8AH250V-T8H250V-Cartridge-8A/dp/B008R8PZIO Assuming the old fuse is 20mm.
I know this is an old video. But have you ever come across a famicom that will only load the game up. If you power it on then put the game and have to hit the reset button. It if I put the game in and power it on it will not work. But if I put my everdrive in. It’ll work with out having it powered on first. Thank you.
i have one gold leopard king famicom, the keyboard, sound image works fine but it doesn't detect the commands, what could it be? can you help me? thanks
Some while ago I bought one of those desoldering stations from China, they are not super cheap, but those were the best 100 Euros I did spend on equipment, with that thing desoldering old chips is fun. BTW: It took me a few years to figure out that some of those tiny screwdrivers have a hole where you can put another screwdriver through, works better than using pliers. ;-)
Yes, you can use another screwdriver as a lever too - I always forget that lol. In fact, my screwdriver set came with a dedicated lever, I just forget to use it all the time lol. I've got a proper desoldering station but tbh for small chips its far easier to just use a desolder pump.
I got one of these cheap desolder pumps on ebay for no reason other to satisfy my curiosity of how crap it was gonna be... tinyurl.com/220vDesolder-pump Colour me surprised, if you like the plunger type desolder pump like you have these things work great. I'm unsure how long for but I've been using it a while (changed the plug obviously) and left it on all day by accident once and it sill works. Edit, forgot to mention, great vid. Thanks.
I purchased modern 9v DC 1.5 amp PSUs for both my Famicom and PC Engines. Most of those modern PSUs from eBay (china) use switching regulators etc and are very cold and efficient. On both of these PSUs I swapped out the connector for the one used by the respective systems, and made sure polarity was correct in each case.
Yep - thanks, done that many times in previous videos! One problem with doing that on the Famicom is the areas covered by stickers end up still yellow afterwards. The only way to properly retrobrite one of these is to remove the stickers and then re-apply them afterwards, and most of the time they are damaged when removing them.
you can get replacement famicom decals here, i have brought them in the past, they are very good quality. although i think they are out of stock at the moment.
I have a desoldering station, I just chose not to use it! It takes around 30 seconds just using a desolder pump, whereras it will take me 2 mins to get the desoldering station out and then 3 or 4 mins to get to temperature, and they I have to clean it later etc.
With a little creativity and the right tools, you can get quite efficient with a pump. I'm right-handed, so I place a short trash bin on the left of the project and soldering iron holder on the right. I press the butt of my Soldapult against my collar bone which ejects the waste into the bin. As long as I'm not de-soldering points that carry constant power, I can be as efficient as someone with a fancy electric de-soldering tool. It's good enough that I've fought off the temptation to drop >$100 in something I really don't need to use that frequently.
to each their own, personally when i'm doing pcb's and have to de- solder 50+ points on a board and have multiple to do the quality and consistency of a proper de-solder pump beats a manual pump hands down.
That's what I thought, but I have read a research paper talking about failure types in older SRAM, and that paper clearly indicated that some older SRAM had electrolyte in something called the 'storage trench'. There was nothing on top of the chips, nor around the chips, and no where else on the board. I've seen this exact same thing 3 or 4 times - always in 2114 or 2115 SRAM - nowhere else on the board and never any signs of anything having leaked inside.
SRAM isn't supposed to have a "storage trench". Trench capacitor is a kind of vertical capacitor that is formed at the transistor gate in DRAM and EPROM, and actually is responsible for data retention, and it kind of makes sense that they'd try to stabilize and enhance the properties of this capacitor by introducing an electrolytic material into it... but it would be nanoscopic quantities that could never outright leak, and it would be very very far from the legs, especially far outer ones at the end of enclosure. Besides, that's DRAM, SRAM is really just supposed to be a transistor arrangement. I'm thinking, there have simply never been many SRAM manufacturers, only a handful, and if one of them made a mishap in leg metal composition or enclosure plastic composition, and didn't notice it for a a few years because it takes decades for the problem to manifest, a lot of devices would be affected. Perhaps it's just a plastic additive leaching out and being corrosive. Also, could be that these SRAM chips, which were already severely outdated by the 80ies, were simply a lot older than consoles, old stock, and could come with a bit of invisible corrosion of the shelf?
Thanks for the info! We have afew theories on here so far - someone has suggested its an ionising effect between silver coating and the plastic package? But it's good that a few people have clarified that a storage trench seems to only relate to DRAM, and as you say - the quantity seems so low that it couldn't be the problem anyway. It's all part of the learning process.
can you really just take the cpu and ppu from these and put them in a nes!? if you then disabled the lockout chip would it play games in american/Japanese speeds?
Yes, the Famicom uses a 7805 voltage regulator internally, so it can accept 14v DC. Often these manufacturers label a PSU up as 9v or 10v but it's not uncommon to see them outputting 12v, 13v or 14v DC. The same is true of the Sega Megadrive power supplies. Ideally 9v PSU is better as it will result in less heat internal to the Famicom.
It's worth watching the other Famicom repair videos I did there. It could be that there's a bad solder point on the DC jack socket, it could be that the crystal is dead, or it could be a faulty PPU, CPU or RAM. You could measure voltage coming out of the 7805 regulator between ground (middle pin) and the 5v pin (right hand pin as the part number faces you).
Would this work: Can Famicom transistor/voltage regulator (is a regulator a transistor too?) HA 17805 be replaced withI with a AN7805 (the one I bought, the only one available)? I think HA means Hitachi. Is the 1 before the 7 important? Or these are just the same 7805? By the way, off topic (about a power supply for another gadget). Also, the original ceramic fuse had a label of T8AH250V will the one I bought work (it's the only 250v fuse available)? : 5A BS1362 6X30 Thanks
Part 3 - ruclips.net/video/rbkJbb2YVNw/видео.html
Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/IGE3IDyjEEY/видео.html
Great vid man. You make removing chips look sooooooo easy haha, especially the grounded pins. I do love seeing you resurrect these old machines.
Thanks mate =D It's just a matter of practice is all!
that flicking the pins technique at 12:40 is SUCH a great tip!
Thanks! =D
I always learn a lot watching your videos. Almost makes me think I can fix some of the broken consoles I have sitting in my attic. Almost. ;)
Haha, thanks =D You should have a go - but practice soldering and desoldering on some junk PC board or something first ;)
Sadly, some of those consoles are broken because they were my early soldering jobs. :(
If you don't make mistakes, you don't learn! =D
I've been doing a ton of research on Famicoms myself lately and will be looking to pick one up for myself to have a play around. I might know my way around Commodore 64s and NES, but Famicom is still exotic to me! Great work as always Gadget!
Thanks! The Famicom / NES are lovely systems - so very simple but great games etc.
Great vid, having recently fixed up 6 of these myself from some ebay finds I was particularly interested in your video.
Looking forward to seeing the others restored. BTW use punch on level 1 boss instead of kick ;-)
What problems did you come across with the 6 you looked at? And thanks for the 'boss tip' =D
No SRAM problems for starters, I got lucky there, I had 6 that were already AV modded, but had various issues ranging from noisy player 2 controllers, crusty power jacks, blown pico fuses on later models, faulty on/off switches, and one that had been in a right scrape where the base had a hole in it from an impact that also cracked the back motherboard, I jumpered that motherboard back together carefully and patched up the hole - I was super happy when it turned on.
If you go to my twitter the journey starts here on 25/11/16 Cheers Dean twitter.com/lesoleil70/status/802193197241954304
Thanks for sharing that =D
Another fine repair. You probably already know this but I just want to let you know that some EPROM programmer can test RAM chips; my Needhams EMP-20 EPROM programmer can test all sorts of RAM. Even the cheapo TL866CS I own can test certain RAM.
It's one of them functions that gets overlooked or isn't well known with EPROM programmer. I.E. being able to test RAM.
I know you have a couple or more EPROM programmers, check their manuals or look in the software options maybe one of them can test RAM's, my Needhams EMP-20 EPROM programmer has helped me find dodgy RAM in the past and has saved me a lot of time, just being able to pop a suspected dodgy RAM in its ZIF socket and run a test on it is a god send.
Thanks! I've got 4 different programmers but none will test 2115's =\. It's annoying because it's dead easy for them to add support but they didn't =\
Having said that... Just checked again and they do support 6116, which I think is pin compatible with the 2115.
Great repairs as always :)
What is the plastic cleaner you use? Looks like it does a great job!
Meguiars PlastX!
Hey Chris. I recently got a Famicom and AV modded it fine, but there was a buzzing seemingly coming from the microphone on controller 2. So I opened it up, cleaned the contacts, then it buzzed more. So I tried reflowing the wires inside. Then both controllers stopped working haha, so I figured it was the TC40H368P, U7/U8. I tried switching them round, just out of curiosity, but there was just a grey screen, so I put them back to normal. Still a grey screen, noooooooo. I see you say SRAM or CPU for grey screen, what do you think are the chances I've damaged one or both of those? I've left it turned on for a little while and the CPU is hot enough that it hurts when I touch it for more than a second. So I'm guessing CPU. Just wondering what you'd think. Cheers for the free consultation if you reply 😄
hey USA fan here. i love your vids! by any chance can you post a link on where you by your famicom chips?
For SRAM, its a case of searching for the part number (or equivalents) on eBay, AliExpress or Google (to find small companies). The only other source is faulty Famicoms from eBay.
Great video! In regards to the replacement button membranes search eBay for the white colored membranes. They work just as good as the original membranes and seem to last for a good while. I have two controllers with them installed now for about two years and they've been fine.
Yeah - I covered replacement silicones in the previous few videos (The one where I restored the first famicom I picked up, and the vid covering PC Engine silicons). With those after market silicones you do have to add some padding on top of the d-pad though in order to get diagonals working properly. Did you find that with the ones you used? If not, please post a link to where to buy the ones you used!
GadgetUK164 m.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-10-Nintendo-NES-Controller-Repair-Kit-Replacement-Conductive-Pads-/171548326537?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2526meid%253Df18182a2d5a647c0874a1e2565e0fda7%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D6%2526rkt%253D16%2526mehot%253Dpp%2526sd%253D171789989265&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460
GadgetUK164 with these pads I just installed them and never had an issue with the buttons or D-Pad working any different from the original pads. The buttons feel will be stiff at first, but once they break in you'll be fine.
Great vid! The SRAM containing electrolyte was interesting. Have you cut one of the old ones open?
Not yet - but that is a good idea, if I can work out the best way to do that... Perhaps Dremel? I am not 100% sure its electrolyte, I am just going off a research paper I read last year, but I cannot find the damn thing now. Clearly something going on though as the rest of that board is like new, and the corrosion is just on the tops of the pins, and clearly spread inwards in the underside rather than all around the pads etc. So it is very mysterious.
Yeah that's very odd. Yep a Dremel would be able to grind off the entire top layer to expose the inside.
something i would try with the S-RAM is replacing the broken internal cap with an external one. maybe even cut the chip open if the internal one is shorted.
I don't think they have a single interal cap - my undertstanding is there's electrolyte used somewhere in there but in the storage trench - ie. not a capacitor.
I was dubious about the concept of an IC leaking when you mentioned it in a previous video, but it does certainly look like something is going on here. Maybe the SRAM has overheated and something has melted and leaked. I've not heard of these having some form of additional internal capacitance, but that might explain it? I'll keep a look out in future with 2114's and 2115's.
I read a research paper on how SRAM works and in that paper it mentioned 'electrolyte in the storage trench' when describing how they work. I do think this is the case, it's too much of a co-incidence, I've seen it a few times on other 2114 and 2115 chips - not just on that C64 and this Famicom. But - I don't think all SRAMs work exactly the same way and it might only relate to the 2114 and 2115 as I've never seen any other SRAM fail this way.
Maybe there is something else going on - perhaps some other type of chemical reaction or something. I cannot for the life of me find the article I was reading last year. It was a document talking about failure types in older SRAM chips and it did clearly talk about liquid electrolyte in the storage trench. Maybe some reaction to some coating or something, perhaps on the package or the pins. Maybe even flux? I did wonder about temperature and humidity and perhaps it was just normal corrosion, perhaps moisture is attracted to the package body under certain circumstances (ie. temperature changes perhaps). But then again that would be odd, and I would expect corrosion to be slightly wider spread on the board.
You do get similar things happening when the board has got wet or been washed and water is trapped under the ICs, but that would affect all the chips on the board?
I just ordered my famicom a week ago and the SRAM I believe died, the console was getting unusually hot the last time I played it so I stopped but when I turned it on today it was just dead and idk how to get an SRAM replacement
Look at the part number of the SRAM - then search for equivalents for that part number. There will be a few different 6264 (thin type DIL/DIP) ICs that work there.
Where are you buying the s-ram from ? I think the upper left ram is dodgy in my famicom but don’t want to spend crazy money importing chips if it’s not going to cure the problem.
eBay or AliExpress. You might need to search for a list of equivalent ICs for that type of SRAM. There are loads of manufacturers of the same IC with differing part numbers.
Also, I've experienced the exact same wierdness with corrosion on old SRAM chips in vintage computers/consolres. I also see lots of Texas Instrument logic and others from the 80s with leads that tarnish and turn crusty black, but for the most part those seem to still operate just fine. Always wondered what it was that causes some of these chips to seemingly corrode from the inside out, as you would imagine they should be effectively permanently sealed in their epoxy packages.
If its not something leaking from inside, I wonder if its related to some chemical on the pins or package body? It's a bit strange.
its silver plate thats tarnished on those old ti logic chips
Are you sure? I've ruled out any electrolyte - apparently a storage trench with electrolyte is only used on DRAM, not SRAM - and someone below said its Ion transfer between plastic and metal pin? It seems there's two theories now lol. Very interesting though!
At any rate, its still an interesting mystery, as I've experienced the same weird failures myself. Also, the silver plating on TI logic certainly makes sense however. Wondered why they chose to use precious silver plating (that would obv. tarnish), if indeed that is what it is? I recall seeing fancy mil-spec 54LS ceramic logic with gold plated pins before so it wouldn't be out of the question I suppose...
what camera are you using mate? i'm looking at buying something new and your quality was pretty good
Thanks, I use a Samsung R10 - Was £250 new, but they are pretty cheap now! Does 1080p 60ps. www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-R10-Full-Flash-Camcorder/dp/B0023W6QFQ
Great little console, where are you sourcing your gear ? Also with Japanese consoles are there any particular consoles to look for that need different power ( step down converter) i don't want to buy something and kill it strait away. Love the videos as always thumbs up !
There are tonnes of Famicoms on eBay! I never buy them with PSU - they just need 9v DC (make sure you get the polarity correct), so just get a 9v DC 1 or 1.5 amp PSU cheap, then put a 5.5 x 2.1mm jack on it, or swap the socket for a 5.5 x 2.5 and use a 5.5 x 2.5 jack on the PSU too. If you want to use any Japanese PSUs, then you need a step down transformer.
Very interesting to watch; I definitely learn things from your channel. Thanks for doing all these! I'm not good at fixing hardware, but maybe one day! I just tested my turbografx-16 w/CD attachment and I'm not getting any power. Frustrating! Your skills give me hope lol. :)
Check the fuse in the turbografx - I am guessing there's one in there, like there is in the PC Engine? Also check the PSU with using a multimeter, you should get somewhere between 9v DC and 13v DC approximately.
And thanks for the nice feedback btw =D
Hmm. Thanks for the advice; I'll have to give that a shot. I was wondering if there is a fuse. And you're welcome, keep up the great work!
I recently bought it, everything is working well but the screen is black and white; no sound also .. I tried to change the cable sites but no effect , need your help please
No colour is probably due to it being an NTSC system and your TV perhaps supports PAL? The sound I am not sure about, but it could also be related to your TV not liking the NTSC signal and the audio sub carrier.
No storage trench is used in dram, the parts are passivated the issue is ion transfer between the plastic and the metal pin
OK - I stand corrected then! I swear the document I read related to SRAM =/
That's also interesting - you mentioning "Ion transfer between plastic and metal pin" - I must read up on that, it does sound like that is the most likely explanation! Thanks, you seem very knowledgeable! =D
Hi! I have a problem with my famicom. I was trying to do the AV mod and everything go well...But (I dont know how to say this) there was only the "bass" harmonie, the high was gone.
excuse my bad english :( Thanks! :D
Where are you taking the sound connection from?
what brand of plastic cleaner do you use, i like the results :)
Mcguiars PlastX, and Simonez Back to Black.
Quick question, can I use an Sram from a North American front loader nes on a Japanese famicom?
If its the "thin" type of DIP package, yes!
Why is my console broken it works when i plug in yhe 132 games in1 but not just normally with the 500 games how can i fix this
Assuming you have a Famicom (not a clone) - it sounds like the 500 in 1 cartridge has a fault... You could try cleaning the cartridge gold contacts with a cotton bud and some IPA.
So you can't but new, or new old stock of those s-ram chips?
Yes, you can buy a number of replacement chips - but its new old stock! I've got 6 chips on order at the moment!
It's also possible to adapt other SRAM to do the same job - I will talk about that in a later video.
Ah, ok.
Yes that would be interesting.
You should look into getting the Famicom Disk System, There not that expensive and usually only need a new drive belt.
I might get one at some point, although I probably wouldn't use it as I can play all the FDS games via the Everdrive - with expansion audio too!
GadgetUK164 Hi mate r u on facebook need to ask you a question about my megadrive joypad please
Hi, no - I don't do Facebook! Easiest to just post here!
If you really wanted to play with FDS, there is also the option of using the "FDSStick", which is a inexpensive tiny USB emulator that plugs into the RAM adapter in place of the disk drive. You could eliminate the drive altogether if you wanted, downside being you would then have a laptop/PC tethered to your FC. Like Gadget though, I already play FDS off the Everdrive so its never been a high priority for me.
Yes but you cant beat original hardware.
Inserting a disk and then hearing the motor and gears spinning :) Or maybe thats just me......
Hi. Does my Famicom power/AC adapter need rewinding or does it need it's capacitor replaced? The adapter is 10v DC but the power/AC adapter is only outputting less than 1v.
The specifications are:
DC 10v 850mA
AC 100v 50/60Hz 18Va
Is it the capacitor? The capacitor spec is 16v 2200 microFarads.
Thank you in advance.
God bless, Psalm 11:7
I would personally just guy a new PSU. The chances are it could need recapping, but they tend to be sealed units.
Hi. The power adapter seems working, there was a break in the wire (near the barrel jack). I just bend that area and taped it. The output DC is now reading 14v
There is no power I think still in the Famicom. I checked the Famicom's fuse, it's good (the multitester beeps). What could be a culprit or whats the next component to check? Thank you.
God bless, Proverbs 31
@@SevenDeMagnus The switch and the 7805 regulator are next to check! I seem to have lost where your last message was - regards a T8AH250V fuse. You cannot replace that with the 5A one you were looking at. It needs to be T (timed) 250V 8A as far as I can see. I am guessing something like this:- www.amazon.co.uk/Witonics-T8AH250V-T8H250V-Cartridge-8A/dp/B008R8PZIO Assuming the old fuse is 20mm.
I know this is an old video. But have you ever come across a famicom that will only load the game up. If you power it on then put the game and have to hit the reset button. It if I put the game in and power it on it will not work. But if I put my everdrive in. It’ll work with out having it powered on first. Thank you.
That's pretty strange - makes me wonder if the reset circuit is working properly?!?
@@GadgetUK164 thank you. It tuned out to be the reset capacitor. Thinking it was the 4.7uf. After that it worked great
i have one gold leopard king famicom, the keyboard, sound image works fine but it doesn't detect the commands, what could it be? can you help me? thanks
Some while ago I bought one of those desoldering stations from China, they are not super cheap, but those were the best 100 Euros I did spend on equipment, with that thing desoldering old chips is fun.
BTW: It took me a few years to figure out that some of those tiny screwdrivers have a hole where you can put another screwdriver through, works better than using pliers. ;-)
Yes, you can use another screwdriver as a lever too - I always forget that lol. In fact, my screwdriver set came with a dedicated lever, I just forget to use it all the time lol. I've got a proper desoldering station but tbh for small chips its far easier to just use a desolder pump.
I got one of these cheap desolder pumps on ebay for no reason other to satisfy my curiosity of how crap it was gonna be... tinyurl.com/220vDesolder-pump
Colour me surprised, if you like the plunger type desolder pump like you have these things work great. I'm unsure how long for but I've been using it a while (changed the plug obviously) and left it on all day by accident once and it sill works.
Edit, forgot to mention, great vid. Thanks.
What PSU are you using to power them ?
I purchased modern 9v DC 1.5 amp PSUs for both my Famicom and PC Engines. Most of those modern PSUs from eBay (china) use switching regulators etc and are very cold and efficient. On both of these PSUs I swapped out the connector for the one used by the respective systems, and made sure polarity was correct in each case.
Thanks, I picked up "junk" Famicom and need a PSU so I can start testing it
metroid ds music?
Which music? Do you mean the intro music? That's "No Second Prize".
Put yellowed parts into a zip lock bag with creme developer with hydrogen peroxide.Coat parts liberally.Leave in sun for a day.Looks like new.
Yep - thanks, done that many times in previous videos! One problem with doing that on the Famicom is the areas covered by stickers end up still yellow afterwards. The only way to properly retrobrite one of these is to remove the stickers and then re-apply them afterwards, and most of the time they are damaged when removing them.
you can get replacement famicom decals here, i have brought them in the past, they are very good quality. although i think they are out of stock at the moment.
GadgetUK164 better have them slightly yellow under the decals than yellowed everywhere :)
With the amount of de-soldering you do, i would recommend you get a proper de-soldering station best money i've ever spent.
I have a desoldering station, I just chose not to use it! It takes around 30 seconds just using a desolder pump, whereras it will take me 2 mins to get the desoldering station out and then 3 or 4 mins to get to temperature, and they I have to clean it later etc.
With a little creativity and the right tools, you can get quite efficient with a pump. I'm right-handed, so I place a short trash bin on the left of the project and soldering iron holder on the right. I press the butt of my Soldapult against my collar bone which ejects the waste into the bin. As long as I'm not de-soldering points that carry constant power, I can be as efficient as someone with a fancy electric de-soldering tool. It's good enough that I've fought off the temptation to drop >$100 in something I really don't need to use that frequently.
to each their own, personally when i'm doing pcb's and have to de- solder 50+ points on a board and have multiple to do the quality and consistency of a proper de-solder pump beats a manual pump hands down.
Absolutely, I don't think anyone is arguing with you about big jobs. We're talking about simple patchwork here.
Non there is not electrolyte in sram only transistor so someone dropped somethings acid in the device
That's what I thought, but I have read a research paper talking about failure types in older SRAM, and that paper clearly indicated that some older SRAM had electrolyte in something called the 'storage trench'. There was nothing on top of the chips, nor around the chips, and no where else on the board. I've seen this exact same thing 3 or 4 times - always in 2114 or 2115 SRAM - nowhere else on the board and never any signs of anything having leaked inside.
SRAM isn't supposed to have a "storage trench". Trench capacitor is a kind of vertical capacitor that is formed at the transistor gate in DRAM and EPROM, and actually is responsible for data retention, and it kind of makes sense that they'd try to stabilize and enhance the properties of this capacitor by introducing an electrolytic material into it... but it would be nanoscopic quantities that could never outright leak, and it would be very very far from the legs, especially far outer ones at the end of enclosure. Besides, that's DRAM, SRAM is really just supposed to be a transistor arrangement.
I'm thinking, there have simply never been many SRAM manufacturers, only a handful, and if one of them made a mishap in leg metal composition or enclosure plastic composition, and didn't notice it for a a few years because it takes decades for the problem to manifest, a lot of devices would be affected. Perhaps it's just a plastic additive leaching out and being corrosive. Also, could be that these SRAM chips, which were already severely outdated by the 80ies, were simply a lot older than consoles, old stock, and could come with a bit of invisible corrosion of the shelf?
Thanks for the info! We have afew theories on here so far - someone has suggested its an ionising effect between silver coating and the plastic package? But it's good that a few people have clarified that a storage trench seems to only relate to DRAM, and as you say - the quantity seems so low that it couldn't be the problem anyway. It's all part of the learning process.
can you really just take the cpu and ppu from these and put them in a nes!? if you then disabled the lockout chip would it play games in american/Japanese speeds?
Yes, pretty sure pinouts are the same - it's just they run at a different speed internally. The crystal also needs swapping at the same time.
Definite future project! Thanks
Hi. My Famicom is outputting 14vdc. Is this normal? It's a 100v power supply (japan).
Thank you. God bless, Proverbs 31
Yes, the Famicom uses a 7805 voltage regulator internally, so it can accept 14v DC. Often these manufacturers label a PSU up as 9v or 10v but it's not uncommon to see them outputting 12v, 13v or 14v DC. The same is true of the Sega Megadrive power supplies. Ideally 9v PSU is better as it will result in less heat internal to the Famicom.
I see. Thanks. What's the next step & component to measure to repair this Famicom? Nothing appears on the tv.
It's worth watching the other Famicom repair videos I did there. It could be that there's a bad solder point on the DC jack socket, it could be that the crystal is dead, or it could be a faulty PPU, CPU or RAM. You could measure voltage coming out of the 7805 regulator between ground (middle pin) and the 5v pin (right hand pin as the part number faces you).
Would this work: Can Famicom transistor/voltage regulator (is a regulator a transistor too?) HA 17805 be replaced withI with a AN7805 (the one I bought, the only one available)? I think HA means Hitachi.
Is the 1 before the 7 important? Or these are just the same 7805?
By the way, off topic (about a power supply for another gadget).
Also, the original ceramic fuse had a label of T8AH250V will the one I bought work (it's the only 250v fuse available)? :
5A
BS1362
6X30
Thanks
Yes, that should work. With these I will typically replace with a 7805CV (rated 1.5 amps vs 1 amp).
Save yourself the money for the fascia's. I got myself some brushed effect Gold vinyl wrap for a custom NES pad I just made...imgur.com/a/eOC4p
New subscriber here.
Ahaha, I con't hia de oudio. British maan...