Thanks for showing us Eric, on how to do solar installation properly. 😁 Plus your extra time in documenting all the costs associated with such a project. 👍
Good info. I used to work security at a lumber yard before I worked construction. A lot of times during the summer, I'd keep seeing some of the same people in nice vehicles, picking up random stuff week after week. After a month or 3, they'd tell me that I was never going to see them again. They decided to do some remodeling themselves, and when they were finished, realized they would have been better off hiring a professional. I'm guessing that if they spent the same amount of time working at their job so that they could pay a professional instead of DIYing it themselves, that they would have been better off financially, and definitely better off mentally.
Good information brother .. The best thing to do is always shop around for deals.. Right now is the wrong time to buy everything is twice the price. Batteries and wires are the most expensive thing. Good information keep it up brother..
Eric this is a much needed video for those starting in solar. My guess was $2000.00, I was close lol. Thanks for sharing this for all to learn from. I was there last weekend went to Signature Solar for some advice on a new system. They are awesome people. I so want to move back to East Texas. I really miss my home. Central Texas on Lake Whitney is nice, however, the beauty of East Texas is awesome.
having finished a couple of smaller projects i can appreciate how the cost of completing all the details adds up. My dad told me many years ago the devil is in the details, might be this is what he was thinking about. I am glad you actually mentioned a dollar amount, too often u tubers neglect this important bit of information
This was good. Every project I have started this year has come with so many of these little add ons. As I jump from one thing to another, friends and family try to make me their maintenance man. I take the time to run through these things as well. People are blown away at the money spent on add ons.
I know you have an entire play list for your solar setup but I think you should put a solar 101 course together. I think it would do really well and would generate a good forum for thoughts and ideas. Always love and am thankful for your solar content. Take care Kate
Good job, nice breakdown of those little costs we often dont consider that add up, every job is different & so can incur many extra expenses. Not sure if u mentioned heat shrink & heat gun or lighter. I do like the clean & professional look of ferrules, but if ur using Victron gear I believe they recommend you dont use ferrules, as their connectors are designed to make maximum contact with the conductor without using a ferrule. TFS. Cheers
Fantastic breakdown of what is actually involved to build your own. As we are building our system the knowledge and time to make everything right has a great value to it as well. Absolutely worth the build but it does take some dedication.
I'm also in Texas and went with an installer since my eye's glaze over at about the third thing you have to do extra for DIY solar. However, one thing about installers is that they want to install what I call 'stick it to the man' systems where the object is to over produce power during the day and put it on the grid, then use it at night and have a super low bill to get return on investment. I'm not on a homestead but I live close rural so I have aerobic septic (uses a pump to 'stir') and a well. My goal is to be able to run my well and septic indefinitely if the grid is down for some reason. Question, could you stay in your house without water or toilets for a week? Two weeks? If the Texas grid had hard crashed 2 years ago during the cold snap, they are saying it would have been down a month, minimum. Just wanted to provide this perspective. If you get solar, have a goal; bill reduction only, run critical loads (a small subset of your main circuits) if the grid goes down and only when sunny, run critical loads anytime when the grid is down (adjust production (panels) and storage (batteries) to fit your needs), go off grid.
@@CountryLivingExperience We will drive up to Signature Solar next month for more panels. We need more batteries but we are gonna expand our solar first.
It's a little project specific but electrical is never cheap. I don't know why you needed that huge conduit from your main panel when you only had 4 x 4 gauge wires and I'm not sure why you didn't run a couple of network cables at the same time (more cost 😂). I'm still not sure why you bought the additional bus bars. Maybe you're planning future expansion? BTW - you can still leave your Victron system grid connected but avoid ever sending power back to the grid. There's a setting where you can tell it to power loads from the grid side, use the grid to charge your batt's if solar is bad etc. I can't remember what it is but you set a negative differential to the grid side. You need to set it up as an ESS system.
Lots of good info here -- thanks. I noticed you have a bit of DIN rail stuff. When I priced a few items with the DIN rail feature long ago, they were substantially more expensive than alternatives, so I became "allergic" to them. They do offer flexibility, especially for applications with needing reconfiguration, such as industrial settings. But for permanent settings like home construction, the flexibility goes to waste. There is the "Cool Factor", but I don't pay for that.
You're welcome. I didn't think of any "cool" factor. I thought of easy of construction and modification factors. The combiner box I built was far cheaper than buying a premade off-brand one or something like that Midnite Solar box.
I think the ac stuff is dirt cheap because everything is manufactured at large quantities. And ac ocpd is also cheaper. The dc ocpd is always much larger and expensive. Two t class fuses cost more than all the ac accessories you mentioned. Minus the transfer switch. If you get the commerical grade pv conductors (extra thick insulation), direct burial is not an issue at all. Would save you a ton of money. Idk, I think its pretty cheap compared to utility connection and endless electrical payments 😂 even one month of electricity bills can pay for the tools. all of the tools can be used for future projects or repairs.
True, you can amortize the cost of the tools over time for use on other projects but that was a small percentage of the extras total. The AC stuff is cheaper comparative to the DC side. It is the sheer amount of small items that add up. It is cheap compared to utility connection. That is why I am a solar proponent like you.
Not too much of a shock to me. Many Trades in our area are now adding a "Parts" list with their estimates. These lists can be in the 10's of thousands of dollars...
So glad they are adding in the parts list instead of just marking up the big items to cover the small items or adding it to the labor charge. I think it is more honest.
Great video. People don't realize the nickel-and-diming affect. I will save a ton of money on Amazon on a DC breaker or MC4 cable, a box, or whatever, but man, I will drop $100 at the hardware store just on a bag of various hardware just to complete the project. However, when I do this, I have fasteners or little conduit pieces, brackets, or extra whatever for the next job.
While PVC cement (glue for the conduit) does cure when exposed to air, if you store the unused glue in the can with the lid on tight and UPSIDEDOWN, you will find it takes much longer for it to cure in the can.
So many costs that have been slowing down my DIY install. I'm still half assing it but hopefully I'll be done properly this time next year. That gray conduit is so pricy. I am considering using white PVC. I know its not code but from what I can tell there are only two differences. White PVC might not be as solid, and isn't UV protected. So I am thinking of burying white PVC and then using gray PVC above ground. I know it's not what you are supposed to do but I can't find a reason for gray PVC other than it being the rules. I also got lucky on my 4ga wiring as I was able to find someone on facebook who had the length i needed leftover which saved me a bit.
Just happens I had an investment pay off and have a good sized budget. All those final bits and pieces are going to use all of it up but some of that is nice toys. I needed a three point post hole digger for my tractor (another toy) to dig the holes for my ground mount posts, no way I am digging 24 four ft deep holes by hand. I had a good clamp meter but not a DC current meter. Looking at about $20,000 all in for 11,000 watt system with 2 6,500 watt inverters and four 5.12 kWh batteries (doing all the work myself). Not all will be eligible for the tax rebate but most will.
Hello. These are a totally different system for my barn and well which are on a separate transformer. I do have an EG4 system in the house now which gives me more power than the Growatts did.
Okay. Gotcha, I was wondering if you had any problems with you Growatt’s. I have three ES5000’s. Pounding third base towards final install. 42 panels ~ 16k, with 10 eg4 48v. Chopping at the bit. Thanks
@@secondadventmessengerminis3594 I did have an issue with one of the Growatts not "waking up" when the sun hit the panels in the morning. It was replaced quickly by Sig Solar.
Really good one - it does cost significant $ but I'm with you that it's worth it to do it right. I'm on year 6 of solar operations and it took a while for me to understand WHY all these things are needed. For example, my system was trouble free until year 4 when a but-joint (installed by the original electrician) on 4awg wire between the charge controller and the battery bus arced and burnt thru. Per code, the DC wiring was in conduit running to the joint in a metal junction box tucked under the floor of the house up in the insulation where it was but-jointed to the next segment of wire. I happen to have a temp monitor in the box and it recorded over 200F during the burn-thru over a couple of days (up and down) so potentially, the metal box contained an arc/burn that might have sparked a fire! Unexpected things can happen, even after a couple of years of no problems. You may not have a but-joint but every system has wiring screwed into a terminal at a breaker or charge controller or bolted to a battery buss etc - and there is always potential for heat at these connections.
Thank you. So glad that it was in conduit and that you didn't have a fire! Crazy that he butt spliced them and did not calculate the wire properly in the first place. I had some guy arguing with me about conduit yesterday and calling me names because I said it was not a good idea to not use conduit. Crazy.
Tell my wife! 😂. Ok I should have said it was more! 😊 But it’s better to have than not! FYI I’m seeing companies in the US manufacturing Solar Panels. And it’s looking like we are seeing way better prices. This is a very good and interesting review of little things. Thumbs up 👍.
Help me stay up, please? You have the Victron, do you still have the EG4? I guessed you’d be $2000, so the $1900+ was a good guess! I didn’t cheat, just did the quick guess after you said the total would include the $700 wire. I’ve made no more progress but plan to get a manual transfer switch this month. Side question: your intro shows a mound of what appears to be the same red expansive clay we have in central OK. Do you and do you have issues with the foundation of the house?
Gotta watch all the vids to stay up to date. EG4 are in the house. Victron is for the barn, shop, and well. East Texas has hard red clay with sand on top. House moves all the time.
@@CountryLivingExperience yeah, I also work for a living and have 10 acres, also that red clay. Our foundation has taken a real beating. So I do have some catching up. This video was very timely. Been adding up those costs myself. But although I expected the additional, the “what” is very useful for planning. Thanks very much!
$1949. Thats Cheap for all that... Many Solar Panels, Rack. Inverter. wires, boxes, bit n pieces. Since you did'nt mention Storage Batteries I guess they are not included in the $1949.
No Larry, this is only for the small parts and pieces like wire,etc. what I listed in the video. This does not include the inverters, panels, batteries, mppt, or comma equipment.
@@CountryLivingExperience Oh. Thank you. Here in California we pay 46 cents to 83 cents per KWh. Time of day usage varies. I was wondering on a Summer Sunny Day near noon... How much KWh are your solar panels producing? How many watts is your Inverter. That info would really give me a real world understanding of a DIY. So I can plan accordingly. Appears you have one rack with 8x440w solar panels. And one rack with 2 solar panels.
Yes doing it exactly by code that would be the cost But you could of done it cheaper and there wouldn't be any problems! I guess you have money to spend! Most people don't!
I am trying to help so that people can anticipate what it will cost, hopefully budget accordingly, and save up. Everyone can take their own risk when building their systems to do it by code or not.
ALL OF OUR SOLAR EQUIPMENT: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=countrylivingexperience
Thanks for showing us Eric, on how to do solar installation properly. 😁 Plus your extra time in documenting all the costs associated with such a project. 👍
You're welcome.
Good info. I used to work security at a lumber yard before I worked construction. A lot of times during the summer, I'd keep seeing some of the same people in nice vehicles, picking up random stuff week after week. After a month or 3, they'd tell me that I was never going to see them again. They decided to do some remodeling themselves, and when they were finished, realized they would have been better off hiring a professional. I'm guessing that if they spent the same amount of time working at their job so that they could pay a professional instead of DIYing it themselves, that they would have been better off financially, and definitely better off mentally.
I’ve been slowing getting everything i need for a solar system on my RUclips studio/shop. Hopefully one day i will be able to get up up and running.
Hope you can get it done soon.
The little stuff adds up quick for sure .
Good information brother .. The best thing to do is always shop around for deals.. Right now is the wrong time to buy everything is twice the price. Batteries and wires are the most expensive thing. Good information keep it up brother..
Thank you
Eric this is a much needed video for those starting in solar. My guess was $2000.00, I was close lol. Thanks for sharing this for all to learn from. I was there last weekend went to Signature Solar for some advice on a new system. They are awesome people. I so want to move back to East Texas. I really miss my home. Central Texas on Lake Whitney is nice, however, the beauty of East Texas is awesome.
Very cool. Hope this vid helped y’all out.
having finished a couple of smaller projects i can appreciate how the cost of completing all the details adds up. My dad told me many years ago the devil is in the details, might be this is what he was thinking about. I am glad you actually mentioned a dollar amount, too often u tubers neglect this important bit of information
Absolutely! The devil is always in the details.
This was good. Every project I have started this year has come with so many of these little add ons.
As I jump from one thing to another, friends and family try to make me their maintenance man. I take the time to run through these things as well. People are blown away at the money spent on add ons.
Cool. Glad it was helpful.
Amazing video! So many little things that really add up fast.
Thank you. There sure is.
I really appreciate the detail. It had to be a pain to be put together. Thanks so much. Happy Labor Day to you and your family!
Thank you. It was not hard. I am doing more vids on the Victron system showing how easy it is. Have a great weekend.
I know you have an entire play list for your solar setup but I think you should put a solar 101 course together. I think it would do really well and would generate a good forum for thoughts and ideas. Always love and am thankful for your solar content.
Take care
Kate
I appreciate the kind words Kate! Thank you. I have thought about it but have not had the time to move forward with it.
Very helpful to bring this up and to give a cost breakdown.
Good job, nice breakdown of those little costs we often dont consider that add up, every job is different & so can incur many extra expenses. Not sure if u mentioned heat shrink & heat gun or lighter.
I do like the clean & professional look of ferrules, but if ur using Victron gear I believe they recommend you dont use ferrules, as their connectors are designed to make maximum contact with the conductor without using a ferrule. TFS. Cheers
Thanks.
I am sure I left out a few other things like the heat shrink.
Fantastic breakdown of what is actually involved to build your own. As we are building our system the knowledge and time to make everything right has a great value to it as well. Absolutely worth the build but it does take some dedication.
Thank you. Hopefully this helps people understand the diy side.
I'm also in Texas and went with an installer since my eye's glaze over at about the third thing you have to do extra for DIY solar. However, one thing about installers is that they want to install what I call 'stick it to the man' systems where the object is to over produce power during the day and put it on the grid, then use it at night and have a super low bill to get return on investment. I'm not on a homestead but I live close rural so I have aerobic septic (uses a pump to 'stir') and a well. My goal is to be able to run my well and septic indefinitely if the grid is down for some reason. Question, could you stay in your house without water or toilets for a week? Two weeks? If the Texas grid had hard crashed 2 years ago during the cold snap, they are saying it would have been down a month, minimum. Just wanted to provide this perspective. If you get solar, have a goal; bill reduction only, run critical loads (a small subset of your main circuits) if the grid goes down and only when sunny, run critical loads anytime when the grid is down (adjust production (panels) and storage (batteries) to fit your needs), go off grid.
It was all of the little things that really added up quickly for us and we have a tiny system.
Hopefully you have a few extras that you can use for expanding your system in the future.
@@CountryLivingExperience We will drive up to Signature Solar next month for more panels. We need more batteries but we are gonna expand our solar first.
It's a little project specific but electrical is never cheap. I don't know why you needed that huge conduit from your main panel when you only had 4 x 4 gauge wires and I'm not sure why you didn't run a couple of network cables at the same time (more cost 😂). I'm still not sure why you bought the additional bus bars. Maybe you're planning future expansion? BTW - you can still leave your Victron system grid connected but avoid ever sending power back to the grid. There's a setting where you can tell it to power loads from the grid side, use the grid to charge your batt's if solar is bad etc. I can't remember what it is but you set a negative differential to the grid side. You need to set it up as an ESS system.
Detailed and full of information thanks a lot
You’re welcome
This is some really good stuff to know! Thank you for taking the time to break it all down for us. 👍 🤠
You’re welcome. Glad to help
Excellent, excellent vid! Saving this to my solar playlist
Awesome, thank you!
Lots of good info here -- thanks.
I noticed you have a bit of DIN rail stuff. When I priced a few items with the DIN rail feature long ago, they were substantially more expensive than alternatives, so I became "allergic" to them. They do offer flexibility, especially for applications with needing reconfiguration, such as industrial settings. But for permanent settings like home construction, the flexibility goes to waste.
There is the "Cool Factor", but I don't pay for that.
You're welcome.
I didn't think of any "cool" factor. I thought of easy of construction and modification factors. The combiner box I built was far cheaper than buying a premade off-brand one or something like that Midnite Solar box.
I think the ac stuff is dirt cheap because everything is manufactured at large quantities. And ac ocpd is also cheaper. The dc ocpd is always much larger and expensive. Two t class fuses cost more than all the ac accessories you mentioned. Minus the transfer switch.
If you get the commerical grade pv conductors (extra thick insulation), direct burial is not an issue at all. Would save you a ton of money.
Idk, I think its pretty cheap compared to utility connection and endless electrical payments 😂 even one month of electricity bills can pay for the tools. all of the tools can be used for future projects or repairs.
True, you can amortize the cost of the tools over time for use on other projects but that was a small percentage of the extras total.
The AC stuff is cheaper comparative to the DC side. It is the sheer amount of small items that add up.
It is cheap compared to utility connection. That is why I am a solar proponent like you.
Not too much of a shock to me.
Many Trades in our area are now adding a "Parts" list with their estimates. These lists can be in the 10's of thousands of dollars...
So glad they are adding in the parts list instead of just marking up the big items to cover the small items or adding it to the labor charge. I think it is more honest.
I wish I could hire you to do.mine!!!
Thanks, I appreciate that. You can do it!
Great info!! Thanks so much.
Blessings ❤
You're welcome. Hope it helps you in your solar project.
Great video. People don't realize the nickel-and-diming affect. I will save a ton of money on Amazon on a DC breaker or MC4 cable, a box, or whatever, but man, I will drop $100 at the hardware store just on a bag of various hardware just to complete the project. However, when I do this, I have fasteners or little conduit pieces, brackets, or extra whatever for the next job.
Thanks.
Yes, there are always leftovers for other jobs which is nice.
While PVC cement (glue for the conduit) does cure when exposed to air, if you store the unused glue in the can with the lid on tight and UPSIDEDOWN, you will find it takes much longer for it to cure in the can.
Cool. I’ll try that trick
I guess the Eg4 6500 vs Victron is a no brainer….I should have gone Victron too 😢.. Glad you made the leap 😊
I have the EG4 in the house still. It is working perfectly now. This setup is for the barn, stable, well, and rain tanks.
So many costs that have been slowing down my DIY install. I'm still half assing it but hopefully I'll be done properly this time next year. That gray conduit is so pricy. I am considering using white PVC. I know its not code but from what I can tell there are only two differences. White PVC might not be as solid, and isn't UV protected. So I am thinking of burying white PVC and then using gray PVC above ground. I know it's not what you are supposed to do but I can't find a reason for gray PVC other than it being the rules.
I also got lucky on my 4ga wiring as I was able to find someone on facebook who had the length i needed leftover which saved me a bit.
Those little costs will sneak up on you. The white pvc is half the price of the grey conduit.
it sounds like a lot but when you think about trading getting a PC for full Solar then getting the PC later sounds pretty dang worth it hehe
Just happens I had an investment pay off and have a good sized budget. All those final bits and pieces are going to use all of it up but some of that is nice toys. I needed a three point post hole digger for my tractor (another toy) to dig the holes for my ground mount posts, no way I am digging 24 four ft deep holes by hand. I had a good clamp meter but not a DC current meter. Looking at about $20,000 all in for 11,000 watt system with 2 6,500 watt inverters and four 5.12 kWh batteries (doing all the work myself). Not all will be eligible for the tax rebate but most will.
That is awesome in every way. Congrats.
I did not see a link for your multi meter. Also, your link to the Ferrule Crimping Tool with Ferrules and Ferrules links take you to an RJ45 tool.
I will recheck them. Sometimes Amazon changes them if the original seller runs out of inventory.
Here is a link for a good ferrule kit.....amzn.to/3sCgh5p. This is one for the clamp meter.......amzn.to/3sBK7Hc
Hi Eric, thanks for their. I haven’t been on your channel for a while. Noticed you switched from the Growatt inverters. Any reason. Thanks
Hello. These are a totally different system for my barn and well which are on a separate transformer. I do have an EG4 system in the house now which gives me more power than the Growatts did.
Okay. Gotcha, I was wondering if you had any problems with you Growatt’s. I have three ES5000’s. Pounding third base towards final install. 42 panels ~ 16k, with 10 eg4 48v. Chopping at the bit.
Thanks
@@secondadventmessengerminis3594 I did have an issue with one of the Growatts not "waking up" when the sun hit the panels in the morning. It was replaced quickly by Sig Solar.
Thanks
Really good one - it does cost significant $ but I'm with you that it's worth it to do it right. I'm on year 6 of solar operations and it took a while for me to understand WHY all these things are needed. For example, my system was trouble free until year 4 when a but-joint (installed by the original electrician) on 4awg wire between the charge controller and the battery bus arced and burnt thru. Per code, the DC wiring was in conduit running to the joint in a metal junction box tucked under the floor of the house up in the insulation where it was but-jointed to the next segment of wire. I happen to have a temp monitor in the box and it recorded over 200F during the burn-thru over a couple of days (up and down) so potentially, the metal box contained an arc/burn that might have sparked a fire! Unexpected things can happen, even after a couple of years of no problems. You may not have a but-joint but every system has wiring screwed into a terminal at a breaker or charge controller or bolted to a battery buss etc - and there is always potential for heat at these connections.
Thank you.
So glad that it was in conduit and that you didn't have a fire! Crazy that he butt spliced them and did not calculate the wire properly in the first place.
I had some guy arguing with me about conduit yesterday and calling me names because I said it was not a good idea to not use conduit. Crazy.
Tell my wife! 😂. Ok I should have said it was more! 😊 But it’s better to have than not! FYI I’m seeing companies in the US manufacturing Solar Panels. And it’s looking like we are seeing way better prices. This is a very good and interesting review of little things. Thumbs up 👍.
Thanks Clarence. Glad you have found some US panels. I think I saw Engineer775 highlight them on his channel.
@@CountryLivingExperience yep I did see that!
Help me stay up, please? You have the Victron, do you still have the EG4? I guessed you’d be $2000, so the $1900+ was a good guess! I didn’t cheat, just did the quick guess after you said the total would include the $700 wire. I’ve made no more progress but plan to get a manual transfer switch this month.
Side question: your intro shows a mound of what appears to be the same red expansive clay we have in central OK. Do you and do you have issues with the foundation of the house?
Gotta watch all the vids to stay up to date. EG4 are in the house. Victron is for the barn, shop, and well.
East Texas has hard red clay with sand on top. House moves all the time.
@@CountryLivingExperience yeah, I also work for a living and have 10 acres, also that red clay. Our foundation has taken a real beating. So I do have some catching up. This video was very timely. Been adding up those costs myself. But although I expected the additional, the “what” is very useful for planning. Thanks very much!
good resource...thanks
You're welcome
Forgot the fire rated material to mount the equipment on. Remember to alway over estimate cost by 10% to give yourself a buffer.
True. Add $30
Great knowledge!
thx
You’re welcome
$1949. Thats Cheap for all that... Many Solar Panels, Rack. Inverter. wires, boxes, bit n pieces. Since you did'nt mention Storage Batteries I guess they are not included in the $1949.
No Larry, this is only for the small parts and pieces like wire,etc. what I listed in the video. This does not include the inverters, panels, batteries, mppt, or comma equipment.
@@CountryLivingExperience Oh. Thank you. Here in California we pay 46 cents to 83 cents per KWh. Time of day usage varies.
I was wondering on a Summer Sunny Day near noon... How much KWh are your solar panels producing? How many watts is your Inverter. That info would really give me a real world understanding of a DIY. So I can plan accordingly.
Appears you have one rack with 8x440w solar panels. And one rack with 2 solar panels.
In the US, a Rapid Shutdown system is required for rooftop systems. Yup, more cost...
Yep
Not LB box. They are just called LB's.
Great video, the devil is in the details. Also, If you buy a clamp meter make sure it measure DC as well as AC (many only measure AC)🤥
Absolutely!
Not shocking
Firstish
Yes doing it exactly by code that would be the cost
But you could of done it cheaper and there wouldn't be any problems!
I guess you have money to spend!
Most people don't!
Haha true
I am trying to help so that people can anticipate what it will cost, hopefully budget accordingly, and save up. Everyone can take their own risk when building their systems to do it by code or not.
forgot the solid copper ground wire to panels etc.