Hold on... The type of original controller in the Z1 is that : "CR M1000SP SP" ???? If so, then I've got the same controller in the EU version, which means throttle is possible !? No ?
is there a new link for the battery? I can't find the one in the video using the link in the description, also can a 36volt motor/hub handle the 48-volt battery?
Found it, or at least 1 very similar: HALLOMOTOR 35A 36V 48V 1000W 1200W Brushless Ebike Controller DC Sine Wave Silver 35A Regenerative Reverse Function + KT LCD8H Color Matrix Display Meter Control Panel www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5R261X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_fGy7FbQ0AGFSQ
I bought Z1 with upgrade to my son, but looks like controller died few days later. Is there any substitutes in Amazon or eBay I can quickly purchase? It will be super helpful
I think this might be the same one - make sure it's 13s4p though www.ebay.com/itm/48V-20AH-Li-ion-Battery-Volt-Rechargeable-Bicycle-1000W-E-Bike-Electric-Li-ion/392959329066
@@enjoyus100 looks like it's not available on ebay anymore. I would hit up this company based in Chicago and ask them for a custom Z1 battery, they are legit chibatterysystems.com/
I just wanted to drop a thanks, I finally did this mod after my Super73 battery took a crap ( confirmed that it had dead cells). When I contacted Super73 they wanted to charge me $600!!! After just staring at my bike for a couple of months of just staring at my useless bike I bite the bullet and started this upgrade. I had a few hiccups but It's now running awesome!!
I need your help to finish my install. Nowhere in the video does it show how to connect the display to the controller. No plugs match to what is left available. I’m all Ready to go so PLEASE reach out. 🙏🏻👊🏻
This is super helpful!!! Very detailed and at the right pace. Very easy as long as you have some basic electrical skill. Thanks for taking the effort to making such a high quality video.
RunPlayBack damn. I just spent more money to buy the battery and controller! I don’t need/want more speed, but the range would be awesome. Can’t wait to start the project when the parts come in.
I want to tx the utuber. make more likes and subscribe to his channel. He's super 73 bike thing is legit. I bought all the stuff and the 43 teeth sprocket I'm going 30 miles per hour flat surface and down hill 36. I used waze GPS and it's accurate. Thank again I am ecstatic
Which I would have looked at this before cutting my Z1 up and going for it lmao!! Great video!!! My mod keeps shutting down it cuts off and my motor is like struggling to keep the throttle going
@@RunPlayBack not sure yet, it was acting up when I'd switch the mode to 4-5 on the LCD monitor. (I didn't get the color screen) it would work sometimes 1-3.. going to look into that more. Hoping it's not the controller, but you could be right.
I tried the speed hack by cutting the white wire like some youtube video suggested and it fried my controller. Use my multimeter to check the controller and found out by cutting the white cable, five mosfets inside the controller are blown. So I decided to fix the bike myself and tried this upgrade shown by Rick. It took a couple of weeks to get all the parts in while my Z1 sit in the living room sadly, staring at me. When all the parts finally arrived, I went to work and lo and behold, the Z1 is repaired with new LED monitor, new throttle that's very responsive, and new controller. The one thing I did not do is swap the battery because the battery I purchased from China is too long to fit inside the seat. Now my bike runs normal again. I achieved 20 mph with the stock battery. I am going to add a second battery, the one that did not fit, into a new housing and use power switcher to switch one battery to another. That way, I have two batteries on my Z1 when I need to take an extended trip. This new controller is able to automatically detect the Volt on the battery and adjust itself. Thanks Rick for sharing this very valuable video with the community. I replayed this video probably 10 times while going step by step process of fixing my Z1.
@@mr.crispy8932 Did you fried the controller? if you did, you need to either replace the controller or overhaul the set up but keep the original battery like I did.
I tried looking for info on the motor but couldn't find any. I based my P settings roughly on a Bafang 500w hub and settings from other users with the same setup.
Just add a hinge at the back. You can get a hinge at your local hardware store. You can see it more clearly at 25:53 marker if you change the playback speed to 0.5
Hello. just a question, this is not a problem if your battery is 1000 watts, when your controller handle less like 500 watts ? Not dangerous ? Can I use a 350w battery on a controller for 1000w for example ? And same about amper ? The battery delivery 20Ah, when controller rated current is 12Ah.
From what I understand the controller can handle less watts but not more than what it's rated for. For example, I wouldn't try a 52v battery on a controller that's rated to handle a 36/48v. The motor has a little more flexibility. For example the Z1 motor is rated 500watts nominal and 1000watts peak which is why this 48v conversion doesn't blow it. I don't think the controller has the same kind of leeway.
Ok RIC. I finally got my z1 with a dual voltage (36v & 48v) controller and a second 48 volt battery on the frame. I have pedal assist..l.c.d everything. Thank you for your help, but now I have a new problem. I bought a second massive controler...savaton universal voltage..can go 36 to 72 volt batteries..but, there is only 5 hall sensor wires instead to 6. .blue/ green/ black/ yellow/ red. How do I match these 5 to the motors 6 wires... Any clue bro?
@@RunPlayBack you by chance wouldn’t know who still stocks the 6 pin black option would you?fyi thanks for your content without it we would struggle lol!
*Dude?! wish I wasn’t 6’3* because I’m way to big for SUPER73’s bike frame’s 😔 but this was complicated but you must be an engineer by trade because that was awesome! I could use a little off-road setup like this to take to my secret 🤫 fishing honey hole’s. I wonder if they sell a fishing rod holder for this Lol 😝 Honestly, everything seems really custom and DIY so with a bit of creativity I bet I could rig something up. *I love the look of the Super73-RX frame with the dual shock’s... it’s probably my favorite frame even to this day* Wish frame wasn’t so low to the ground because at 6’3 199/lbs… I don’t see me being able to pedal this without looking like the Jolly Green Giant who keep’s kneeing himself in the face while trying to pedal on this sweet a$$ frame piece🤣. Seriously tho, I really think the Super73-RX frame’s are still the sexiest looking setup’s. I would love to hook up dual 1000w-motors with like dual 60V-20ah batteries, the open frame space would probably accommodate it somehow and with a boss-a$$ controller I’d be so smooth,pedal free and riding dead sexy!!! Awe man the possibilities with this frame!!!! I hope the *new Super73 CX-1 brings the frame up for taller rider’s?!*
You can tap into the battery harness wires for the most accurate voltage reading or can also tap into the cable feeding into the display. First, you'll need to open the cable and find the positive battery/power wire and the ground/return wire. Second, is cut the positive/battery wire. Third, IIRC, the keyed voltage switch has 3 wires, #1 is the black wire -- which you'll need to tap into to the cable's ground/return wire (you can use a wire tap), #2 is the red wire -- which you'll connect to the cut positive/battery wire going towards the display (if you chose the display cable) or the controller (if you chose the battery harness), #3 is the green wire -- which you'll connect to the positive/battery wire going towards the controller (if you chose the display cable) or towards the battery (if you chose the battery harness). This is all obviously at your own risk, GL :)
RIC...on the controller I installed, the wires are the same as your tutorial. The install went great,.. but now. I bought a bigger one ( sine savaton 1000 to 2000 watt 45 amp- universal voltage. 36 volt to 72 volt). It's missing the white wire on it's hall sensor grouping. Someone on Facebook told me that missing white wire isn't needed because it's for temperature semsing.
First off, thanks for the video and instructions. Good stuff. Second, I can also confirm that Brick Lithium is gone. I ordered a battery back in March from Brick back when they were still responding. I eventually did get a battery, but not one that would fit the Z1, they sent a mountable ebike battery in a big plastic enclosure meant for external mounting. I asked what we could do about the mixup because they had initially confirmed that this was a custom battery to fit under the Z1 seat. Never got a response. Of course, I could possibly disassemble the battery they sent and work to make it fit but that wasn't the point. Brick never responded. Now I'm also on the hunt for a good battery replacement as well. I'll post if I find one.
Rick another question, does the original 36v controler have a pedal assist connection, or a LCD connection? I want to put pedal assist on my z1 when it arrives in October....thx bro.
Hey Dino! The original 36v stock controller does not have a pedal assist or LCD connection as far as I know. You're best bet would be to upgrade the controller like the one I link in the video. You could also just replace the controller and not the battery to keep things simple.
This is great content and I'm trying to upgrade my son's Z1 with the controler you recommended. It seems like I will also need to replace the throttle and the brakes since Super73 has a different wiring schema than the controller. Is that correct or have you figured out a way to make the stock parts work?
Man, one year later you’ve posted this video i just got my Z1 and one of my first impressions is that the battery should be bigger. Did you choose the 48V for a specific video? How big is that in relation to the stock one? I really have zero understanding of batteries.
I chose 48v because it would fit inside of the stock seat and I wanted a little more torque with the aftermarket controller. The easiest way to upgrade to a bigger battery and simply get more range is to get the ChiBatterySystems battery for the Z1.
Hello, I am curious. How much did this mod cost? I have a broken charging port that short circuited and super73 wants $600 for an entire seat. I wonder if just upgrading the battery would be cheaper+ better in the end.
Price is variable but around the time I did this I spent maybe $230 but I had a lot of extra parts that I already owned from previous builds so it was a bit cheaper for me. If you are handy and don't mind some DIY work you'll get more performance and definitely more knowledge on how the bike works so you can diagnose and fix issues easily.
So how is the bike 4 months after the install? Does the battery still hold charge? Does it still have the same torque? Would I need a cooling fan for the my bike as it gets around 35°c over the summer?
Hey Dean! Its great I have no complaints. The battery still holds a charge and has the same amount of torque. I take really good care of it and keep the battery indoors so no issues. I thought of a cooling fan but never really needed it. Some people install their controllers on the outside of the enclosure to keep it cool.
Awesome video and thank you. Do you have to swap out the stock thumb throttle for the one you have linked? Also since the link expired. What other 48v battery will work. I’m Trying to purchase the whole set at once to get mine rolln ASAP. Mahalo 🤙🏽
Yes it's recommended to swap out the stock throttle because it may not be able to handle 48 volts. Here's the best option for a high quality 48v battery - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/
Hi man was wondering if you could provide a diagram of what goes where? As in which wire you used for the throttle. Plugged mine up and the LCD is good to go but it's not getting throttle. Thanks a lot for your help!
Make sure the 3 wires on the throttle wires are matching the 3 wires on the throttle input of the stock controller. Should be black/black / red/red and then whatever 3rd color to 3rd color.
Hello. Nice Video. Just a question, I have made same stuff like you with another controller but not working ... I wanted to know if you need to connect too the brakes in order to works or or not ?
Yup! I don't know exactly how the RX is wired but once you remove the controller, you can pretty much wire it up the same way depending on what aftermarket controller you go with. I would reach out to www.e-streetbikes.store/ as they have more info on the latest kits for the RX.
I prefer the Z1 because of the community and how much you can mod it. The Juiced Scrambler is a fun bike, I've rode it before - but it's more of ready to run kind of bike. The Z1 is like the bike for people who love to customize their stuff or upgrade and make it more powerful.
Hey brother! Yup I remember! I pretty much left the ESK8 scene after that whole Carvon fiasco and got more into ebikes. I really haven't done a DIY project like this since those days so it was fun to break out the soldering kit again. Hope you are well!
You can check with local ebike or electric scooter (PEV) shops. Otherwise, you can check with FB groups in your area for PEVs, should be able to find someone that can point you in the right direction.
Can this mod work for newer model since when I tried to speed hack it literally stopped worked and I cut the correct one and it won’t even start but the motor spins a bit and they actually replace it fully and I bought this bike December 22, 2022.
That's a great point and I definitely thought about that a lot. But what really made me choose the Z1 was the frame. I'm a short dude (5'5") and there really hasn't been a bike frame that I ever really loved until I tried the Z1. The stock parts are really fine for my needs but what made this particularly project interesting for me was that there was a large community of Z1 modders that I could share this build with. It's really in my DNA to mod and customize things that I own and so even if I chose an S2 or a Zugo I'd be modding the hell out of that and someone would ask, "why didn't you just buy an Onyx or a Suron?". So that's a really long answer but essentially I knew I would be dumping some cash into modding so I figured the cheapest Super73 model would be a good starting point.
Without changing the controller on my RX I just wanna change the battery to 52V 18AH. Problem is the Brick Lithium battery I got has 2 Anderson plugs, but looks like it goes into the controller via HiGo L615AG P connector. This connector has 2 large pins and then 4 other pins. What's the easiest solution to change the battery out? All the HI guys say to check out your RUclips channel. I havcent seen anyone do this yet in detail. I did spend hours on the interwebs yesterday schooling myself on all the endless kinds of connectors though. Could use some guidance. Mahalo Much!
Oh wow I'm not really sure how those would connect. Have you hit up Frank at Brick Lithium, I think he'd probably be the best to ask regarding the connections to the RX as he's definitely built batteries for it.
@@RunPlayBack yea stopped by his place yesterday and he hooked me up with the connectors / splitter / wires I needed to get my battery working. Sooo helpful! Only thing is I'll have to operate it as just a dual battery until I get the controller changed out. I kinda wanted to avoid the dual battery thing for multiple reasons. Maybe I'll try that battery blender from SParks and see if I get extra torque at least when the stock is cutout from the motor on start (59V from 52V battery vs the 48V stock). The wire from the stock battery to stock controller has extra 4 pins that likely monitor the battery sensors. Since I have the stock 48V & now a 52V I gotta drain the 59V battery down to the 54 or so for the stock in order to run it safely. 1 project at a time : ) thanks for the quick reply brotha.
This was a while back, I used a generic cheap battery. You can source these generic batteries pretty much anywhere, eBay, Amz, AliExpress, etc. However, if you want a high quality custom battery, check out powerfullithium.com
I'm pretty sure you can't. I don't remember any port for a display. The only display for the stock controller was connected to the throttle. It's worth getting the new controller along with the LCD display. If your just looking for a speedometer just mount a phone on the handlebars.
Seems like the owner got deployed, not sure what happened to their FB page though, sorry. Try hitting them up on Instagram -- instagram.com/bricklithium/
Solid Tutorial bro! I don't have a super73 I do have a Hurley Mini Swell that comes stock with a 48v battery and 500watt hub that goes a max speed of 20mph. My question is if I was to remove my stock control panel and add this LCD Screen to my bike would I be able to go past the 20mph?
Thanks! So I'm not 100% sure that would work as the stock controller might have it limited to 20mph through the hardware. I think your best bet is to replace both the controller and LED display and figure out a way to rig the controller to the bike and your stock 48v battery to the new controller.
Any thoughts on leaving the 36v volt battery as a back-up and installing a frame mount 48v battery? The controller auto detects what volt the system is running. My plan is running a 48v 18mah on the frame and leaving the 36v as a back-up on long trips. This way all I have to do is switch the plugs (I plan to re-wire outside the seat) when I want to switch over to the 36v. Any thoughts?
Yeah would definitely work. If you are okay with having a bit of a heavier bike for the added range why not? Are you usually doing long trips on this bike?
@@RunPlayBack Im a road cyclist doing 30 to 50 miles on a ride and I need the long-range so my wife can follow me. My Juice Scrambler with the 19ah battery will do it but the wife has a hard time reaching the ground since she's a little short. This will also be able to keep up with the Scrambler on the 30 to 50-mile rides.
haven't even got my bike yet and I want to do this upgrade. I'm about 210 lbs. Do you think I should get a higher voltage battery, and if so, will the controller you have work with it. Thank you!
As long as it's a 36v battery with more amp hours it won't blow the stock controller. More than 36v it'll probably blow the controller. The stock motor is fine at 48v.
You’re awesome man! Thank you for this vid! One question- For the programming, how did you get the numbers for that? What would I have to enter for the C sections for pedal assist?
So I'm not 100% sure what the pedal assist settings are since I didn't install it but this video is the best explanation / walk through for that controller/display: ruclips.net/video/B0F6x8V0NZQ/видео.html
awesome vid Rik! Lot of work to do this. Can’t wait to see the performance video, this would be a great project for my Z, thanks for the indepth step by step video
Thanks bro! Yup lots of work but easy enough to knock out in a weekend with the right tools. Hit me up if you decide to do it, I think you'd love it to be honest. It's like a totally different feeling now.
Yup but not sure its worth it. It already has a 48v battery. And you would lose app functionality. I think I would wait until Super73 unlocks the higher torque/speed modes via the app. Doing something like this on a cheap bike like the Z1 makes a little more sense from a cost/effort standpoint.
Hey, I just got a used z1 and the battery after full charge only last an hour at most. Trying to change the battery so I can actually use the thing. I was thinking of getting the same battery but now I want to upgrade it entirely if I’m gonna spend the money. Found a 48v-12ah battery that’s 9.84 in long, 3.4in wide and 2.75inch tall. Will this fit into the seat? Also, do I need to change the controller to change the battery?
RunPlayBack oh no. Your doing great job. I follow you on Super73 also as Jr Par. And enjoy how your family is involved. I’m getting my other half involved too. So. May give her the Z1 and I get the S2. But after you did this awesome mod. Maybe I get another Z1. Again keep up the good work. Be safe. Give this man two thumbs up and more.
You may have to solder the wires together. Colors are sometimes different but essentially there's only 3 wires to connect - red-positive, black-negative, other color-signal.
But connect them to what part of the controller? I am stuck with wiring the lcd screen to the controller. It doesn’t show how to in your video. Pls help 😂🙏🏻
Got it all put together, seems like the controller isn’t outputting to the motor. When I press throttle the wheel makes a faint twitch like it’s about to start but then power dies off. On the screen it shows wattage go up a little then drop back down to 0. There’s 5V at the throttle, but right now pedal assist, walk mode and throttle don’t work. Any thoughts? I have removed connector on throttle and soldered together
Hmm ok try two things. Make sure the you have the power above 0. If there's still an issue check your throttle wires and be sure they match. Some throttle wires don't match the controller (red with red / black with black / third color with third color.) Pedal assist and walk mode will not work unless you have a pedal assist sensor installed.
So in your measurements of the original battery you only measured the length and the height What’s the width? Or am I missing something? And also what exact connectors should the battery come with. It’s harder now because brick lithium has halted its production And I don’t wanna pay light speed bikes almost $700 for a battery that fits in the seat.
Hi, wanted to know if I upgrade the stock controller with display to the 48v can I use my stock battery or do I also have to upgrade the battery? Only asking because the battery is not available anymore. Thx and nice video
@@jonathanhang9482 yup check out Lite Speed Bikes - a little more expensive but they are super reputable and custom made in the US - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/
Yo boss that T-plug to xt60 , the battery end is male and the xt60 from the controller is a male? Just for clarification. I need female adaptor from end to end to connect the two? Confusing enough lol? Thanks bro mabuhay from S.cali
This really depends on what you want to achieve, but to answer your question simply, you need all the parts mentioned, but you can source them from anywhere.
Finally we have some custom Z1 content, mainly your DIY’s. Much needed in this community. Thanks for doing this!
Thanks brother! I'm always happy to help! We're building up a massive Z1 community right now!
Couldn’t agree more. Thanks for doing this. Do you have a video for the seat upgrade?
Trevor Orr yup I'm working on that now!
I have a z1 i have hardly touched since 2022 and want to know if this upgrade is still the best option in 2024
Hey ,love the video did everything and my screen is saying motor position fault please help! @runplayback
This has got to be the absolute best z1 out there!
Thank you!
Super73 should take notes and make this Z2 version. Thx for posting.
I agree!
Great mod, It's been working great for over a year no issues. Motor seems to handle it well. Yours is much cleaner!!! Great video
Very cool! Same controller? Have you noticed any overheating issues?
@@RunPlayBack it’s overheating? Which lcd did u choose lcd 8?
@@noobygrinchz yeah LCD 8 color version
@@RunPlayBack can you use the stock thumb throttle with this set up? Having some trouble adapting to this controller.
@@brandonfithian719 did you figure it out ?
Hold on... The type of original controller in the Z1 is that : "CR M1000SP SP" ???? If so, then I've got the same controller in the EU version, which means throttle is possible !? No ?
This won’t burn or melt the 500 watt motor ?
Nope it won't.
The brick lithium site is offline. Is there another option you are using for the battery replacement?
Hi can you put a fresh link to a newer battery option? That eBay link is dead
Try LiteSpeedBikes: litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/48v21ah-super-73-in-seat-battery/
Thanks!
is there a new link for the battery? I can't find the one in the video using the link in the description, also can a 36volt motor/hub handle the 48-volt battery?
Is there a different thumb throttle people are using? the one on here is out of stock/unavailable :(
Awesome videos!
The link for speed controller/lcd is no longer available. Do you have another? I’d rather purchase the right gear the first time 😜
Found it, or at least 1 very similar:
HALLOMOTOR 35A 36V 48V 1000W 1200W Brushless Ebike Controller DC Sine Wave Silver 35A Regenerative Reverse Function + KT LCD8H Color Matrix Display Meter Control Panel www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5R261X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_fGy7FbQ0AGFSQ
What amp hours is your battery
I think it was about 13ah.
I bought Z1 with upgrade to my son, but looks like controller died few days later. Is there any substitutes in Amazon or eBay I can quickly purchase? It will be super helpful
Big ups to karacold!!!!
Battery link is dead. New link?
Battery link is not working, any chance you could share the name or another link?
I think this might be the same one - make sure it's 13s4p though www.ebay.com/itm/48V-20AH-Li-ion-Battery-Volt-Rechargeable-Bicycle-1000W-E-Bike-Electric-Li-ion/392959329066
@@RunPlayBack how do you know it's a 13s4p? There is nothing in the Ebay item description? Is this the right battery?
This seems to be bigger in dimensions than the battery you bought! Can you provide a link with the correct battery?
@@enjoyus100 looks like it's not available on ebay anymore. I would hit up this company based in Chicago and ask them for a custom Z1 battery, they are legit chibatterysystems.com/
Is anyone’s bike turning off 5 minutes after a ride with a full battery ?
I just wanted to drop a thanks, I finally did this mod after my Super73 battery took a crap ( confirmed that it had dead cells). When I contacted Super73 they wanted to charge me $600!!! After just staring at my bike for a couple of months of just staring at my useless bike I bite the bullet and started this upgrade. I had a few hiccups but It's now running awesome!!
Glad to hear! Enjoy the ride! 👍
I need your help to finish my install. Nowhere in the video does it show how to connect the display to the controller. No plugs match to what is left available. I’m all
Ready to go so PLEASE reach out. 🙏🏻👊🏻
This is super helpful!!! Very detailed and at the right pace. Very easy as long as you have some basic electrical skill. Thanks for taking the effort to making such a high quality video.
No problem, I'm happy to help! Yup it is a pretty straightforward project with some basic DIY skills. Like a good weekend project :)
RunPlayBack damn. I just spent more money to buy the battery and controller! I don’t need/want more speed, but the range would be awesome. Can’t wait to start the project when the parts come in.
@@steveflannery1270 Nice! Definitely feels like a whole new bike. Let me know if you have any questions when you start your build. I'm happy to help!
Is it necessary to upgrade the stock motor on the bike or is it fine with the new battery?
It's fine for 48v and 52v but top speed will cap out around 33-35mph.
My screen won't turn on and I followed everything on the video. Can someone help me please
You figure this out?
Same boat
Does it work if I just get the controller not the battery
I want to tx the utuber. make more likes and subscribe to his channel. He's super 73 bike thing is legit. I bought all the stuff and the 43 teeth sprocket I'm going 30 miles per hour flat surface and down hill 36. I used waze GPS and it's accurate. Thank again I am ecstatic
Thanks, glad we were able to help with your mod!
Which I would have looked at this before cutting my Z1 up and going for it lmao!! Great video!!! My mod keeps shutting down it cuts off and my motor is like struggling to keep the throttle going
Hey Pablo! Oh no, that doesn't sound good. Sounds like a controller issue? Might have to be replaced.
@@RunPlayBack not sure yet, it was acting up when I'd switch the mode to 4-5 on the LCD monitor. (I didn't get the color screen) it would work sometimes 1-3.. going to look into that more. Hoping it's not the controller, but you could be right.
What’s the battery? And where can I find it?
I tried the speed hack by cutting the white wire like some youtube video suggested and it fried my controller. Use my multimeter to check the controller and found out by cutting the white cable, five mosfets inside the controller are blown. So I decided to fix the bike myself and tried this upgrade shown by Rick. It took a couple of weeks to get all the parts in while my Z1 sit in the living room sadly, staring at me. When all the parts finally arrived, I went to work and lo and behold, the Z1 is repaired with new LED monitor, new throttle that's very responsive, and new controller. The one thing I did not do is swap the battery because the battery I purchased from China is too long to fit inside the seat. Now my bike runs normal again. I achieved 20 mph with the stock battery. I am going to add a second battery, the one that did not fit, into a new housing and use power switcher to switch one battery to another. That way, I have two batteries on my Z1 when I need to take an extended trip. This new controller is able to automatically detect the Volt on the battery and adjust itself. Thanks Rick for sharing this very valuable video with the community. I replayed this video probably 10 times while going step by step process of fixing my Z1.
That's awesome..glad this video is still helpful! The Z1 is a classic that has the best variety of mods out there! Enjoy your ride!
Dude I did the same thing and idk what to do. Is there any easier ways to do it and just keep the same power? Like maybe a plug and play
@@mr.crispy8932 Did you fried the controller? if you did, you need to either replace the controller or overhaul the set up but keep the original battery like I did.
@@ALBGR8Hey I bought a new controller for the bike and we soldered the wires to the new controller and the connectors and it won’t turn on
@@ALBGR8the last two wires are different colors from the original so it’s confusing
How did you figure out the motor p settings? Did you figure out the gear reduction and magnet count?
I tried looking for info on the motor but couldn't find any. I based my P settings roughly on a Bafang 500w hub and settings from other users with the same setup.
@RunplayBack What city are you in bro because I would like for you to upgrade my Juiced Bikes City Scrambler for me.
I'm in Michigan
Wat would I need to hinge me seat up like yours I'm just not ready for upholstery I'm more wondering how the hinge attached to the battery box
Just add a hinge at the back. You can get a hinge at your local hardware store. You can see it more clearly at 25:53 marker if you change the playback speed to 0.5
Hello. just a question, this is not a problem if your battery is 1000 watts, when your controller handle less like 500 watts ? Not dangerous ? Can I use a 350w battery on a controller for 1000w for example ?
And same about amper ? The battery delivery 20Ah, when controller rated current is 12Ah.
From what I understand the controller can handle less watts but not more than what it's rated for. For example, I wouldn't try a 52v battery on a controller that's rated to handle a 36/48v. The motor has a little more flexibility. For example the Z1 motor is rated 500watts nominal and 1000watts peak which is why this 48v conversion doesn't blow it. I don't think the controller has the same kind of leeway.
Just did the his 48v upgrade and my z1 is scary fast and torque great
Nice! Enjoy the ride!!
Which throttle did you end up using? The linked one in the description is unavailable on amazon now.
@@michaelarcangel5862 This seems to be the same one: amzn.to/3lO0ARA
@@RunPlayBack Quick reply! Thanks, just need to find the battery.
@@michaelarcangel5862 hit up Brick Lithium on Facebook or Instagram
Ok RIC. I finally got my z1 with a dual voltage (36v & 48v) controller and a second 48 volt battery on the frame. I have pedal assist..l.c.d everything. Thank you for your help, but now I have a new problem. I bought a second massive controler...savaton universal voltage..can go 36 to 72 volt batteries..but, there is only 5 hall sensor wires instead to 6. .blue/ green/ black/ yellow/ red. How do I match these 5 to the motors 6 wires... Any clue bro?
Hey Dino! The wire colors should match up and whatever isn't being used don't worry about them. Do most of the colors match up?
Is the throttle necessary, or can I just use stock...because I can’t find one with black option, thanks! The link has no more
I would get a new throttle - it's been reported that the stock Z1 throttle might not be able to handle 48 volts.
@@RunPlayBack you by chance wouldn’t know who still stocks the 6 pin black option would you?fyi thanks for your content without it we would struggle lol!
@@RunPlayBack I found them on alli express I appreciate all the info and actually responding much respect aloha
Hello what is the with of the battery
BROOO ARE YOU IN LA?! I am trying to find someone to upgrade my RX!!!
Nah I'm in the Midwest
*Dude?! wish I wasn’t 6’3* because I’m way to big for SUPER73’s bike frame’s 😔 but this was complicated but you must be an engineer by trade because that was awesome! I could use a little off-road setup like this to take to my secret 🤫 fishing honey hole’s. I wonder if they sell a fishing rod holder for this Lol 😝 Honestly, everything seems really custom and DIY so with a bit of creativity I bet I could rig something up. *I love the look of the Super73-RX frame with the dual shock’s... it’s probably my favorite frame even to this day* Wish frame wasn’t so low to the ground because at 6’3 199/lbs… I don’t see me being able to pedal this without looking like the Jolly Green Giant who keep’s kneeing himself in the face while trying to pedal on this sweet a$$ frame piece🤣. Seriously tho, I really think the Super73-RX frame’s are still the sexiest looking setup’s. I would love to hook up dual 1000w-motors with like dual 60V-20ah batteries, the open frame space would probably accommodate it somehow and with a boss-a$$ controller I’d be so smooth,pedal free and riding dead sexy!!! Awe man the possibilities with this frame!!!! I hope the *new Super73 CX-1 brings the frame up for taller rider’s?!*
I hear ya! Yeah the Z1 is probably too small. An RX is definitely more suitable for taller riders. 👍👍
How to get hidden settings
Can you help me out I’m trying to wire a key voltage switch on my rx can you tell me how to wire it up
You can tap into the battery harness wires for the most accurate voltage reading or can also tap into the cable feeding into the display. First, you'll need to open the cable and find the positive battery/power wire and the ground/return wire. Second, is cut the positive/battery wire. Third, IIRC, the keyed voltage switch has 3 wires, #1 is the black wire -- which you'll need to tap into to the cable's ground/return wire (you can use a wire tap), #2 is the red wire -- which you'll connect to the cut positive/battery wire going towards the display (if you chose the display cable) or the controller (if you chose the battery harness), #3 is the green wire -- which you'll connect to the positive/battery wire going towards the controller (if you chose the display cable) or towards the battery (if you chose the battery harness). This is all obviously at your own risk, GL :)
RIC...on the controller I installed, the wires are the same as your tutorial. The install went great,.. but now. I bought a bigger one ( sine savaton 1000 to 2000 watt 45 amp- universal voltage. 36 volt to 72 volt). It's missing the white wire on it's hall sensor grouping. Someone on Facebook told me that missing white wire isn't needed because it's for temperature semsing.
yeah that should be fine then, you can leave the white wire alone
Nice vid pare! Ayo i want to upgrade my z1 with a 36v battery that fits in the seat. Any suggestions that fit? Thanks mane
Thanks! I think only custom battery builders offer that now. Try Brick Lithium on Facebook.
hey, all the battery links are dead! looking for a 48v that will fit in the seat, anybody able to recommend ?
Did you reach out to Brick Lithium? They do custom packs for the Z1. Link in description.
@@RunPlayBack yeah i did last week but didn't hear back
So apparently Brick Lithium is essentially closed as of April 28 according to his FB page, mentions starting up again in 2024.
First off, thanks for the video and instructions. Good stuff.
Second, I can also confirm that Brick Lithium is gone. I ordered a battery back in March from Brick back when they were still responding. I eventually did get a battery, but not one that would fit the Z1, they sent a mountable ebike battery in a big plastic enclosure meant for external mounting. I asked what we could do about the mixup because they had initially confirmed that this was a custom battery to fit under the Z1 seat. Never got a response. Of course, I could possibly disassemble the battery they sent and work to make it fit but that wasn't the point. Brick never responded.
Now I'm also on the hunt for a good battery replacement as well. I'll post if I find one.
Is the motor extension cord a 9pin? My z1 caught on fire and im doing a rebuild...the hubmotor cord is short
I believe it's 11 pin but I don't know the exact specs of the connector. You could also just forego the connectors and splice the wires directly.
Rick another question, does the original 36v controler have a pedal assist connection, or a LCD connection? I want to put pedal assist on my z1 when it arrives in October....thx bro.
Hey Dino! The original 36v stock controller does not have a pedal assist or LCD connection as far as I know. You're best bet would be to upgrade the controller like the one I link in the video. You could also just replace the controller and not the battery to keep things simple.
This is great content and I'm trying to upgrade my son's Z1 with the controler you recommended. It seems like I will also need to replace the throttle and the brakes since Super73 has a different wiring schema than the controller. Is that correct or have you figured out a way to make the stock parts work?
That's correct, you'll need to replace the throttle. The brakes are fine, you just have to disconnect the sensors.
Man, one year later you’ve posted this video i just got my Z1 and one of my first impressions is that the battery should be bigger. Did you choose the 48V for a specific video? How big is that in relation to the stock one? I really have zero understanding of batteries.
I chose 48v because it would fit inside of the stock seat and I wanted a little more torque with the aftermarket controller. The easiest way to upgrade to a bigger battery and simply get more range is to get the ChiBatterySystems battery for the Z1.
"That' coming right up!" ;D
Hello, I am curious. How much did this mod cost? I have a broken charging port that short circuited and super73 wants $600 for an entire seat. I wonder if just upgrading the battery would be cheaper+ better in the end.
Price is variable but around the time I did this I spent maybe $230 but I had a lot of extra parts that I already owned from previous builds so it was a bit cheaper for me. If you are handy and don't mind some DIY work you'll get more performance and definitely more knowledge on how the bike works so you can diagnose and fix issues easily.
So how is the bike 4 months after the install? Does the battery still hold charge? Does it still have the same torque? Would I need a cooling fan for the my bike as it gets around 35°c over the summer?
Hey Dean! Its great I have no complaints. The battery still holds a charge and has the same amount of torque. I take really good care of it and keep the battery indoors so no issues. I thought of a cooling fan but never really needed it. Some people install their controllers on the outside of the enclosure to keep it cool.
Awesome video and thank you. Do you have to swap out the stock thumb throttle for the one you have linked? Also since the link expired. What other 48v battery will work. I’m Trying to purchase the whole set at once to get mine rolln ASAP. Mahalo 🤙🏽
Yes it's recommended to swap out the stock throttle because it may not be able to handle 48 volts. Here's the best option for a high quality 48v battery - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/
Awesome video the community is forever in debt to you! 🤙🏼
Thanks, I'm always happy to help and share especially when it comes to DIY!
Hi man was wondering if you could provide a diagram of what goes where? As in which wire you used for the throttle. Plugged mine up and the LCD is good to go but it's not getting throttle. Thanks a lot for your help!
Make sure the 3 wires on the throttle wires are matching the 3 wires on the throttle input of the stock controller. Should be black/black / red/red and then whatever 3rd color to 3rd color.
Hello. Nice Video. Just a question, I have made same stuff like you with another controller but not working ... I wanted to know if you need to connect too the brakes in order to works or or not ?
No I didn't connect the controller to the brakes. It doesn't really require a brake/motor cutoff.
Hi there great video, would all these components work on the ZG by any chance?
Yes it would!
Is this process the same with the rx because I want to upgrade the controller on it
Yup! I don't know exactly how the RX is wired but once you remove the controller, you can pretty much wire it up the same way depending on what aftermarket controller you go with. I would reach out to www.e-streetbikes.store/ as they have more info on the latest kits for the RX.
where did you get the battery
I’ve done this 48v upgrade mod on my Z1 but it shows error code “Motor Position Sensor Fault” I need some help. Any input would be great.
Sounds like a hall sensor issue, double check all your connections to the motor
What about going to a 52w battery? Would I need a new controller too? Di you think that would be a good upgrade or am I just going too far?
A few have done it, definitely possible. It's also more expensive than this upgrade. Only you can decide what's right for you.
You could just solder the motor phase wires instead of using the bullet connectors right?
Yup you can!
Awesome vid. Would love to see the pedal assist install.
Yeah definitely I can do that, it's a pretty simple installation.
Do you have a controller for a z1
Would you rather buy a 73 Z1 and do this or buy a juiced City scrambler?
I prefer the Z1 because of the community and how much you can mod it. The Juiced Scrambler is a fun bike, I've rode it before - but it's more of ready to run kind of bike. The Z1 is like the bike for people who love to customize their stuff or upgrade and make it more powerful.
Where do I get the battery
Awesome to see some DIY content! I subbed to you in your esk8 days. Love the look and feel of the channel!
Hey brother! Yup I remember! I pretty much left the ESK8 scene after that whole Carvon fiasco and got more into ebikes. I really haven't done a DIY project like this since those days so it was fun to break out the soldering kit again. Hope you are well!
Are there ppl or places that can do these upgrades/mods? For us that aren’t so mechanically/electrically inclined???
You can check with local ebike or electric scooter (PEV) shops. Otherwise, you can check with FB groups in your area for PEVs, should be able to find someone that can point you in the right direction.
Can this mod work for newer model since when I tried to speed hack it literally stopped worked and I cut the correct one and it won’t even start but the motor spins a bit and they actually replace it fully and I bought this bike December 22, 2022.
If you're referring to the ZX model, it comes with a 48v system. If you want to mod to 52v, 60v, or 72v, the same base concepts apply.
With all the stuff that you bought, wouldnt it just be better off buying a S2 or zugo bike?
That's a great point and I definitely thought about that a lot. But what really made me choose the Z1 was the frame. I'm a short dude (5'5") and there really hasn't been a bike frame that I ever really loved until I tried the Z1. The stock parts are really fine for my needs but what made this particularly project interesting for me was that there was a large community of Z1 modders that I could share this build with. It's really in my DNA to mod and customize things that I own and so even if I chose an S2 or a Zugo I'd be modding the hell out of that and someone would ask, "why didn't you just buy an Onyx or a Suron?". So that's a really long answer but essentially I knew I would be dumping some cash into modding so I figured the cheapest Super73 model would be a good starting point.
I wonder if this mod would work on my Ariel X-Class? Its currently pushing top at 28mph. It has a rear hub bafang 750w.
Yeah it probably could...I'm not sure where the controller lives in the X-Class but if you can find it and it's easy enough to replace..why not?
Without changing the controller on my RX I just wanna change the battery to 52V 18AH. Problem is the Brick Lithium battery I got has 2 Anderson plugs, but looks like it goes into the controller via HiGo L615AG P connector. This connector has 2 large pins and then 4 other pins. What's the easiest solution to change the battery out? All the HI guys say to check out your RUclips channel. I havcent seen anyone do this yet in detail. I did spend hours on the interwebs yesterday schooling myself on all the endless kinds of connectors though. Could use some guidance. Mahalo Much!
Oh wow I'm not really sure how those would connect. Have you hit up Frank at Brick Lithium, I think he'd probably be the best to ask regarding the connections to the RX as he's definitely built batteries for it.
@@RunPlayBack yea stopped by his place yesterday and he hooked me up with the connectors / splitter / wires I needed to get my battery working. Sooo helpful! Only thing is I'll have to operate it as just a dual battery until I get the controller changed out. I kinda wanted to avoid the dual battery thing for multiple reasons. Maybe I'll try that battery blender from SParks and see if I get extra torque at least when the stock is cutout from the motor on start (59V from 52V battery vs the 48V stock). The wire from the stock battery to stock controller has extra 4 pins that likely monitor the battery sensors. Since I have the stock 48V & now a 52V I gotta drain the 59V battery down to the 54 or so for the stock in order to run it safely. 1 project at a time : ) thanks for the quick reply brotha.
So do I use a Anderson to xt60 to use the controller and my stock battery?
Yup
I went to your link for the 48v battery and it doesn’t look like they have this battery on there website. What would you recommend I do?
This was a while back, I used a generic cheap battery. You can source these generic batteries pretty much anywhere, eBay, Amz, AliExpress, etc. However, if you want a high quality custom battery, check out powerfullithium.com
Are we able to hook a up the same LCD speedometer up to the stock controller on the z1
I'm pretty sure you can't. I don't remember any port for a display. The only display for the stock controller was connected to the throttle. It's worth getting the new controller along with the LCD display. If your just looking for a speedometer just mount a phone on the handlebars.
hello, but the battery upgrade in the desc in the video is not working anymore?
Seems like the owner got deployed, not sure what happened to their FB page though, sorry. Try hitting them up on Instagram -- instagram.com/bricklithium/
Solid Tutorial bro! I don't have a super73 I do have a Hurley Mini Swell that comes stock with a 48v battery and 500watt hub that goes a max speed of 20mph. My question is if I was to remove my stock control panel and add this LCD Screen to my bike would I be able to go past the 20mph?
Thanks! So I'm not 100% sure that would work as the stock controller might have it limited to 20mph through the hardware. I think your best bet is to replace both the controller and LED display and figure out a way to rig the controller to the bike and your stock 48v battery to the new controller.
@@RunPlayBack thanks bro. I’ll probably check it out one day
can you only put in the controller or will that not work
You can but it would be somewhat pointless. The battery and controller as a pair increase the performance.
is that mod possible in ZG European motor?
Yup!
Can i keep the stock battery and upgrade the controller?
Yes
Any thoughts on leaving the 36v volt battery as a back-up and installing a frame mount 48v battery?
The controller auto detects what volt the system is running. My plan is running a 48v 18mah on the frame and leaving the 36v as a back-up on long trips. This way all I have to do is switch the plugs (I plan to re-wire outside the seat) when I want to switch over to the 36v. Any thoughts?
Yeah would definitely work. If you are okay with having a bit of a heavier bike for the added range why not? Are you usually doing long trips on this bike?
@@RunPlayBack Im a road cyclist doing 30 to 50 miles on a ride and I need the long-range so my wife can follow me. My Juice Scrambler with the 19ah battery will do it but the wife has a hard time reaching the ground since she's a little short. This will also be able to keep up with the Scrambler on the 30 to 50-mile rides.
What kind of throttle the link isn’t working is it 3 or 2 wires thumb throttle?
Did you find out any details. I am stuck on this step also
haven't even got my bike yet and I want to do this upgrade. I'm about 210 lbs. Do you think I should get a higher voltage battery, and if so, will the controller you have work with it. Thank you!
The controller is only rated for 48v so anything more would probably cause a short. But you might be surprised, 48v has some solid torque.
@@RunPlayBack Thanks man. Do you have another link for the battery you used? Or something similar. The current link isnt working.
just did my swap on the zg (EU version) and it works perfect tutorial helped very much
Awesome, always happy to help!
Could u use the bigger battery on the stock internals?
As long as it's a 36v battery with more amp hours it won't blow the stock controller. More than 36v it'll probably blow the controller. The stock motor is fine at 48v.
What kind of wire stripper is that? I need one
amzn.to/3rtRwEd
You’re awesome man! Thank you for this vid! One question- For the programming, how did you get the numbers for that? What would I have to enter for the C sections for pedal assist?
So I'm not 100% sure what the pedal assist settings are since I didn't install it but this video is the best explanation / walk through for that controller/display: ruclips.net/video/B0F6x8V0NZQ/видео.html
Hi Will this controller work on my zx motor?
Yes it should be fine.
If you upgrade to the 48V battery do you have to upgrade the controller or can you leave the original? I’m just looking to get more range.
You'll need to upgrade the controller as well. The stock only can only handle 36v.
Thanks. Thank you for your multiple replies on all the videos I commented 👍🏻
Hey I just ordered the kit does it come with the throttle ? I have the European zg and it’s pedal assist only.
Nope you need to purchase a throttle separately. I think I linked one in the description.
@@RunPlayBack oh yeah right. Thanks.
awesome vid Rik! Lot of work to do this. Can’t wait to see the performance video, this would be a great project for my Z, thanks for the indepth step by step video
Thanks bro! Yup lots of work but easy enough to knock out in a weekend with the right tools. Hit me up if you decide to do it, I think you'd love it to be honest. It's like a totally different feeling now.
@@RunPlayBack For sure! thanks, I'm already looking at your parts list haha. I know I want to do this, just need your videos for inspiration
Can I do the same on my Super73 RX?
Yup but not sure its worth it. It already has a 48v battery. And you would lose app functionality. I think I would wait until Super73 unlocks the higher torque/speed modes via the app. Doing something like this on a cheap bike like the Z1 makes a little more sense from a cost/effort standpoint.
Hey!
Awesome video!
13s3p or 13s4p for battery? what is the difference?
13s3p is 39 cells while 13s4p is 52 cells. More cells means more range.
@@RunPlayBack thank you
Hey, I just got a used z1 and the battery after full charge only last an hour at most. Trying to change the battery so I can actually use the thing. I was thinking of getting the same battery but now I want to upgrade it entirely if I’m gonna spend the money. Found a 48v-12ah battery that’s 9.84 in long, 3.4in wide and 2.75inch tall. Will this fit into the seat? Also, do I need to change the controller to change the battery?
Rik. Awesome job. Thank you. Keep up the good work. And say mahalo to your other helper. Awesome bro
Will do! Thank you brother 🙌
RunPlayBack oh no. Your doing great job. I follow you on Super73 also as Jr Par. And enjoy how your family is involved. I’m getting my other half involved too. So. May give her the Z1 and I get the S2. But after you did this awesome mod. Maybe I get another Z1. Again keep up the good work. Be safe. Give this man two thumbs up and more.
Does it work for super 73 ZX
I'm not sure, I've never opened up a ZX.
How do you wire the throttle? My cord seems short. And the connectors don’t match.
You may have to solder the wires together. Colors are sometimes different but essentially there's only 3 wires to connect - red-positive, black-negative, other color-signal.
But connect them to what part of the controller? I am stuck with wiring the lcd screen to the controller. It doesn’t show how to in your video. Pls help 😂🙏🏻
Got it all put together, seems like the controller isn’t outputting to the motor. When I press throttle the wheel makes a faint twitch like it’s about to start but then power dies off. On the screen it shows wattage go up a little then drop back down to 0. There’s 5V at the throttle, but right now pedal assist, walk mode and throttle don’t work. Any thoughts? I have removed connector on throttle and soldered together
Hmm ok try two things. Make sure the you have the power above 0. If there's still an issue check your throttle wires and be sure they match. Some throttle wires don't match the controller (red with red / black with black / third color with third color.) Pedal assist and walk mode will not work unless you have a pedal assist sensor installed.
Hey did you ever figure it out? I'm having the same issue
Once I put the power above 0 it worked fine. I also went ahead and added the pedal assist sensor.
So in your measurements of the original battery you only measured the length and the height What’s the width? Or am I missing something? And also what exact connectors should the battery come with. It’s harder now because brick lithium has halted its production And I don’t wanna pay light speed bikes almost $700 for a battery that fits in the seat.
Hi, wanted to know if I upgrade the stock controller with display to the 48v can I use my stock battery or do I also have to upgrade the battery? Only asking because the battery is not available anymore. Thx and nice video
Yes you can upgrade to the controller and display with the stock battery. You'll just need Deens plugs instead of XT3's.
Do u know another source for the 48v battery I can buy? The link u put is no longer available. Thx for your response
@@jonathanhang9482 yup check out Lite Speed Bikes - a little more expensive but they are super reputable and custom made in the US - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/
Yo boss that T-plug to xt60 , the battery end is male and the xt60 from the controller is a male? Just for clarification. I need female adaptor from end to end to connect the two? Confusing enough lol? Thanks bro mabuhay from S.cali
What are all the items that we have to have and don’t have to have
This really depends on what you want to achieve, but to answer your question simply, you need all the parts mentioned, but you can source them from anywhere.