As a Commercial Fisherman, I have to be a Jack of all Trades, but you have truly helped me rebuild my Mom's House after Hurricane Helene. Such great detail information, thank you very much for your work... 🆘
So thankful to have found your channel before tackling some home improvement projects. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you getting right to the point with clear instructions, as well as explaining potential problems and how to avoid them. Definitely subscribing.
@ Even when a good video is not about something you are going to buy or obtain - whether a BBQ grill, an automotive device, a firearm upgrade, even something like a pressure washer - you learn something IF the content creator is clear and concise and entertaining!
To get an accurate length for the top piece, I put the end of the tape measure inside the vertical jamb, then measure to the mark on the opposite jamb and add the reveal.
Personally I prefer a depth jig to a pencil line when setting reveals. Super easy to hold the trim and the jig in one hand and nail it with the other. But you got a great method and your work looks impeccable. Merry Christmas bud. Appreciate ya
I used to always just cut and nail my sides on followed by just wood glue and put my top in place after for a long time. I tried the ca glue method the other day and it worked great I timed the two as well and the ca glue was a couple minutes faster and better results. The only thing I do different is cut my one piece of trim in half then bring it over to the door I have a spacer on the bottom for floor thickness and set it on there then scribe a mark on it using my gauge at the top so I have it marked perfectly. Then I add 3/8” to the top measurement between jambs to get my top measurement. Then follow your glue up procedure.
I've had great results with high temp hot glue. It has a little bit of flex that the joint doesn't break when moving it around to install. On really important joints hot melt PUR is even stronger.
Maybe use shorter nails going into the inner portion of door jam where you're not going through the thicker part of the door frame and drywall? Sometimes the longer nail will deflect. And a new subscriber.
Do you have a video on old work trim? My house has amazing solid oak trim from the late 80s. The upper floors have been painted! Some some of your tips for the painted trim does apply. I wonder if I could CA glue the pieces together before I put them back up. I bet I could, but I couldn’t reuse the original nail holes. Any advice on brands or types of nail gum nails? The ones I have are pretty brittle. I bet it’ll be a nightmare to try to repair, remove, or reset trim that has them. The trim Im working with use these amazing thick finish nails that I can reuse and REMOVE without them breaking.
I really wanted to try this method when doing my casings, but I had issues. I didn't have a big and flat enough area to lay out a whole door set, the trim was not flat or straight, and Home Depot didn't have anything I could identify as activator. I know this product exists as I do miniature gaming, but couldn't find it at the box store. Anyway, I found assembling legs first on the wall to be fairly easy as long as you've marked your reveal, and if you're putting up white that is to be painted, caulk and wood filler go a LONG way. I still used wood glue on the miters to stop from gaping in the future. My point, is that for any DIYers that are holding back because they can't get the tools to do this method, check out the other vids where he shows you how to assemble on the wall. It's just as easy. Only tool that isn't optional is a 18 gauge brad nailer. I love that tool.
Hi, i have door frames which are pretty old and would benefit from a fresh coat of paint. The current layer seems a bit "rubbery/plastiky". Is it OK to use a chemical to strip off the paint from the door frame? Would you know what sort of paint to use please? Thank you
cut and install the sides for every door , then measure long to long which is a way easier 'way' to make an accurate cut , if you get a dimension off you ruined 3 pieces by the time you pull them apart.. fill nail holes and miters with sheet rock mud , it dries quick , sands easily, recoated if need be and wiped off with a damp rag if wanted
Can anyone provide guidance on how to nail the trims if I don’t have a finishing nail gun… just a hammer and nail? Use clamps to hold the trim in place while I use the hammer and nails?
Try PUR (polyurethane reactive) glue. No VOCs, fast assembly like CA glue, but flexible, not brittle. Does take a special $120 heat glue gun. Insider carpentry has some good vids on it.
I'll install the header trim first, then I'll cut the 2 jamb trims with a 45° cut. Turn the trim upside down, mark the bottom of the trim at the top, cut it straight, and install
Please steal my better way and that is to use a tape measure with millimeters. None of this “+” 3/16 fractions mumbo jumbo. Love for your next video to be on that next door and show everyone how much more accurate you can be by not using imperial units 😂. 😉 😜
CA glue is best for MDF doesn't work as well on real wood. So since I use real wood for the vast majority of my trim I use white glue and CA glue. CA is the clamp and the white glue is the long term solution
Good set of techniques that will work for clamshell type casing. For 3/4” or thicker and 3-1/2”-5-1/2” casing, CA glue alone is questionable. I would add some more robust techniques for thicker and wider casings. . I measure in millimeters, more accurate and less prone to mistakes. Cut biscuits using a biscuit joiner from the rear flat surface. The Lamello biscuit joiner can’t be beat. Biscuits create the strongest and great aligned joints. CA glued joints will break if you have to flex the joint too much. Use Titebond Quick & Thick trim glue on the biscuit and the mating surfaces as it allows some adjustment to get perfect alignment, is thick so it doesn’t run as easy and sets in 15 minutes. Apply Chestnut Tool Clam Clamps to squeeze the miters perfectly tight. Allow to set for 15 minutes then nail in place with the clamps in place. Remove the clamps after nailing. Use a Fastcap $10 million stick for holding the pieces while cutting the miters on the saw. Your hands are too close to the blade. Add a blade light to the Dewalt miter saw to get your cuts perfect every time. CA is a fine alternative if you don’t have the clamps or a biscuit joiner. Starbond Medium Flexible is the best. And use heavy duty polypropylene gloves or your fingers will stick together.
I always nail a brad on each side at the miter but since you're using cheap MDF I guess that wouldn't be a good idea. Also you didn't specify how the "pros" do it so don't really know what you're comparing your method to. also Kreg sells a little jig just for the door jam spacing.
If you want accurate lengths of trim use math and not try to measure to pencil lines or lining up the inside mitre to a flat spot etc, too much room for inaccuracy. Measure to the LONG edge - not the short. For example; The trim is 2 1/2 wide and you want a 1/4" reveal. The inside measurement of the frame upright is 80" and inside width 30". Start but cutting the 45 degree first... much easier to hook a tape measure on ;-) The uprights will be 80" + 1/4" reveal + 2 1/2" (the width of the trim - single 45 deg cut) = 82 3/4" to the LONG. For the header, inside measurement is 30" + 1/2" (1/4" reveal on both sides) + 5" (double width of the 2 1/2" trim, 2 x 45 deg cuts) It's a way more accurate! P.S. Love the channel, your one of my favourites, keep up the great posts!
CA or Cyanoacrylate Glue is just the technical name for "Super Glue". Activator can also be called accelerator. You can find a spray can of it at Lowes/Home Depot or maybe even Walmart or Hobby Lobby.
I've hung hundreds of doors, and while your work looks great I can't justify all that for paint and filler grade finish work. I eyeball the reveal and nail the top first using a carpenters pencil as a gauge block if something looks off. I skip the fuss unless I'm skipping the paint, which makes for a nerve wracking job anyway.
18g is too small. That door will move and then not shut properly since those nails are too thin. You may not know this but proper nailing is to use 16g 1-1/2" through casing to jamb, then 16g 2" through casing to stud
I happen to be a professional trim carpenter with 37 years experience and counting sir. Your methods here are absolutely comical. You wouldn't last 10 minutes on a real jobsite, perhaps less than that. Better than the pros? You are nothing short of an overconfident idiot here. You are truly a funny handyman at best. You are not in any definition a carpenter at all. Merry Christmas to you though. Love your videos.
30ish years on real job sites would suggest otherwise, but hey to each his own. I’ve taught a few friends this method and seen great results….so thanks for watching.
It's why I wear gloves. I basically use my gloves as tissue paper. You really don't want to take your hands off the joint while you are holding it in place, and by the time the joint is solid, the glue is going to be dry. Also, super glue was originally designed FOR use on the body: it was a surgical tool for closing wounds.
This method only works if the jambs are level and plumb and at right angles plus straight. In the real world you often have to cut your mitres at something other than 45. If a do it yourselfer followed this would lead to frustration and a poor fitting set of casings.
Often the jambs are not straight and the reveal with your method will be all over the place. I use some scrap lengths to see if a 45 cut works, if it doesn't I cut at a slightly greater or lesser angle till the reveals follow the jamb uniformly
Please pay attention to 3:22 in this video!!! That is extremely dangerous to your health! It is called crossing your arms on a miter saw. You should NOT use a miter saw this way! (Use your right hand for the saw trigger PLEASE!) You can severely injure self when you cut your right hand or arm doing that!!! The poster of this video needs to serve his subscribers better than this!
You yanks do everything way over the top! If you have the right thickness door jamb and your jamb is in wind with the wall you can mark your quirk measure and fit! Let’s not over complicate a simple process
As a Commercial Fisherman, I have to be a Jack of all Trades, but you have truly helped me rebuild my Mom's House after Hurricane Helene. Such great detail information, thank you very much for your work... 🆘
Thanks for watching and glad the videos are helping you out🍻
So thankful to have found your channel before tackling some home improvement projects. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you getting right to the point with clear instructions, as well as explaining potential problems and how to avoid them. Definitely subscribing.
Yup…assembly before install! CA glue and possibly a pin nail. Nice vid.
I am not even a DIYer, but I subscribe to his channel cause he is such a good “explainer”.
Thank you, that’s very kind of you to say
@ Even when a good video is not about something you are going to buy or obtain - whether a BBQ grill, an automotive device, a firearm upgrade, even something like a pressure washer - you learn something IF the content creator is clear and concise and entertaining!
As a certified amateur that strives for pro level results....your videos give me a glimmer of hope at attaining good finishes 😁
Thanks for watching, best wishes on your future projects!
Sometime I even go around with that jig as I’m fitting the trim just to get the reveal just perfect.
Great video
You are the best on RUclips ! Saves hundreds if not thousands thanks to your videos !
Very kind of you to say- thank you🍻
Congrats. I’m a DIYer. Great videos. I love your methods and techniques almost as much as I love your humor. Keep up the awesome work.
Cheers George, thanks for watching🍻
Great video. I use this exact method for window trims, and I always get compliments on how good my miters look.
🍻beauty
To get an accurate length for the top piece, I put the end of the tape measure inside the vertical jamb, then measure to the mark on the opposite jamb and add the reveal.
Personally I prefer a depth jig to a pencil line when setting reveals. Super easy to hold the trim and the jig in one hand and nail it with the other. But you got a great method and your work looks impeccable.
Merry Christmas bud. Appreciate ya
I used to always just cut and nail my sides on followed by just wood glue and put my top in place after for a long time. I tried the ca glue method the other day and it worked great I timed the two as well and the ca glue was a couple minutes faster and better results. The only thing I do different is cut my one piece of trim in half then bring it over to the door I have a spacer on the bottom for floor thickness and set it on there then scribe a mark on it using my gauge at the top so I have it marked perfectly. Then I add 3/8” to the top measurement between jambs to get my top measurement. Then follow your glue up procedure.
That’s awesome- I showed this method to my buddy a while back and he used it with great success.
solid tips, clear explanation of how and why, and from BC. Fantastic.
i literally just installed a trim using your old videos from 2 years ago. . I come to the computer and there is this now...
How did it go?
Love the 1 1/4 jambs 👌
I've had great results with high temp hot glue. It has a little bit of flex that the joint doesn't break when moving it around to install. On really important joints hot melt PUR is even stronger.
A masterclass on how to explain a project with nothing left out in the shortest amount of time.
Maybe use shorter nails going into the inner portion of door jam where you're not going through the thicker part of the door frame and drywall? Sometimes the longer nail will deflect. And a new subscriber.
Works great when the doors are installed properly and isn’t 1” proud of the drywall lol.
I just measure the inside of the door jamb and add 2x(my reveal). Not sure if that's much quicker or more accurate, but feels like it would be.
I think it is more accurate. Also, TFC's method would get very difficult with wide openings (eg double doors).
Thank you so much & Happy Holidays to you and your family!🎄
Thank you for watching! Enjoy the holidays🍻
What trim was used? Love that profile.
Do you have a video on old work trim? My house has amazing solid oak trim from the late 80s. The upper floors have been painted! Some some of your tips for the painted trim does apply. I wonder if I could CA glue the pieces together before I put them back up. I bet I could, but I couldn’t reuse the original nail holes.
Any advice on brands or types of nail gum nails? The ones I have are pretty brittle. I bet it’ll be a nightmare to try to repair, remove, or reset trim that has them. The trim Im working with use these amazing thick finish nails that I can reuse and REMOVE without them breaking.
🇦🇺 Looking forward to seeing more of your work in 2025. Always interesting - I learn heaps. All the best. 🎉
Thanks Maria:) have a great holidays and see you in 2025🍻🇨🇦
👍👍👍 Another great instructional video. May this Christmas bring peace and happiness to yourself and your family 🎄⛄. Thank you
Thanks Pete, happiest of Holidays 🍻
Great tips and resource videos. What is the name of the profile for the trim in this video?
I really wanted to try this method when doing my casings, but I had issues. I didn't have a big and flat enough area to lay out a whole door set, the trim was not flat or straight, and Home Depot didn't have anything I could identify as activator. I know this product exists as I do miniature gaming, but couldn't find it at the box store. Anyway, I found assembling legs first on the wall to be fairly easy as long as you've marked your reveal, and if you're putting up white that is to be painted, caulk and wood filler go a LONG way. I still used wood glue on the miters to stop from gaping in the future. My point, is that for any DIYers that are holding back because they can't get the tools to do this method, check out the other vids where he shows you how to assemble on the wall. It's just as easy. Only tool that isn't optional is a 18 gauge brad nailer. I love that tool.
Hi, i have door frames which are pretty old and would benefit from a fresh coat of paint. The current layer seems a bit "rubbery/plastiky". Is it OK to use a chemical to strip off the paint from the door frame? Would you know what sort of paint to use please? Thank you
How about exterior & interior door threshold? Please help with the installation!
I wish I had your videos 26 years ago when I re-did our house!! lol
👏🏻👍🏻 love your videos and explanations. That's exactly how I do them , and also have been using the collins clamps 👍🏻
Good idea gluing before install but what about uneven walls? Don't you ever have to shim? Thanks man
Always best to have a a flat edge and check .. if it is off..then rolling the miter is a skill to learn..this doesn't work with all casings.
We call it the goalpost method 😂 great videos keep it up
cut and install the sides for every door , then measure long to long which is a way easier 'way' to make an accurate cut , if you get a dimension off you ruined 3 pieces by the time you pull them apart.. fill nail holes and miters with sheet rock mud , it dries quick , sands easily, recoated if need be and wiped off with a damp rag if wanted
Can anyone provide guidance on how to nail the trims if I don’t have a finishing nail gun… just a hammer and nail? Use clamps to hold the trim in place while I use the hammer and nails?
All well and good if your door frames are square
Try PUR (polyurethane reactive) glue. No VOCs, fast assembly like CA glue, but flexible, not brittle. Does take a special $120 heat glue gun. Insider carpentry has some good vids on it.
I'll install the header trim first, then I'll cut the 2 jamb trims with a 45° cut. Turn the trim upside down, mark the bottom of the trim at the top, cut it straight, and install
How about Craig jig all corners
Beauty. Nicely done. Merry Christmas 🎄 I bet Elon smacks himself in the head in the morning too 🤣
Please steal my better way and that is to use a tape measure with millimeters. None of this “+” 3/16 fractions mumbo jumbo. Love for your next video to be on that next door and show everyone how much more accurate you can be by not using imperial units 😂. 😉 😜
CA glue is best for MDF doesn't work as well on real wood. So since I use real wood for the vast majority of my trim I use white glue and CA glue. CA is the clamp and the white glue is the long term solution
Excellent!
Cheers buddy, hope the holidays treat you well🍻
I’m hoping too! Merry Christmas!🍻
Wow, wish I'd see this video 6 weeks ago...LOL
😂
😂
Next time!
As a non American can you do metric too
No, no, that can't be right. It looks too easy and too perfect. 😅
Happy Holidays Pete🍻
Good set of techniques that will work for clamshell type casing. For 3/4” or thicker and 3-1/2”-5-1/2” casing, CA glue alone is questionable. I would add some more robust techniques for thicker and wider casings. . I measure in millimeters, more accurate and less prone to mistakes. Cut biscuits using a biscuit joiner from the rear flat surface. The Lamello biscuit joiner can’t be beat. Biscuits create the strongest and great aligned joints. CA glued joints will break if you have to flex the joint too much. Use Titebond Quick & Thick trim glue on the biscuit and the mating surfaces as it allows some adjustment to get perfect alignment, is thick so it doesn’t run as easy and sets in 15 minutes. Apply Chestnut Tool Clam Clamps to squeeze the miters perfectly tight. Allow to set for 15 minutes then nail in place with the clamps in place. Remove the clamps after nailing. Use a Fastcap $10 million stick for holding the pieces while cutting the miters on the saw. Your hands are too close to the blade. Add a blade light to the Dewalt miter saw to get your cuts perfect every time. CA is a fine alternative if you don’t have the clamps or a biscuit joiner. Starbond Medium Flexible is the best. And use heavy duty polypropylene gloves or your fingers will stick together.
Some good tips thanks for sharing🍻
Alright know it all haha! You have sponsorship deals or something 😂
I do not agree on the 1/4" measure, because I see all the time, where the latch of the door, hits the trim. Go 3/8"
I always nail a brad on each side at the miter but since you're using cheap MDF I guess that wouldn't be a good idea. Also you didn't specify how the "pros" do it so don't really know what you're comparing your method to. also Kreg sells a little jig just for the door jam spacing.
If you want accurate lengths of trim use math and not try to measure to pencil lines or lining up the inside mitre to a flat spot etc, too much room for inaccuracy. Measure to the LONG edge - not the short. For example; The trim is 2 1/2 wide and you want a 1/4" reveal. The inside measurement of the frame upright is 80" and inside width 30". Start but cutting the 45 degree first... much easier to hook a tape measure on ;-) The uprights will be 80" + 1/4" reveal + 2 1/2" (the width of the trim - single 45 deg cut) = 82 3/4" to the LONG. For the header, inside measurement is 30" + 1/2" (1/4" reveal on both sides) + 5" (double width of the 2 1/2" trim, 2 x 45 deg cuts) It's a way more accurate! P.S. Love the channel, your one of my favourites, keep up the great posts!
I swear "CA glue and activator" doesn't exist outside of RUclips. Not a single hardware store salesperson has ever heard of them when I've asked.
CA or Cyanoacrylate Glue is just the technical name for "Super Glue". Activator can also be called accelerator. You can find a spray can of it at Lowes/Home Depot or maybe even Walmart or Hobby Lobby.
First of all, make sure you have perfect 45 degrees on your saw.
I've hung hundreds of doors, and while your work looks great I can't justify all that for paint and filler grade finish work. I eyeball the reveal and nail the top first using a carpenters pencil as a gauge block if something looks off. I skip the fuss unless I'm skipping the paint, which makes for a nerve wracking job anyway.
18g is too small. That door will move and then not shut properly since those nails are too thin.
You may not know this but proper nailing is to use 16g 1-1/2" through casing to jamb, then 16g 2" through casing to stud
I happen to be a professional trim carpenter with 37 years experience and counting sir. Your methods here are absolutely comical. You wouldn't last 10 minutes on a real jobsite, perhaps less than that. Better than the pros? You are nothing short of an overconfident idiot here. You are truly a funny handyman at best. You are not in any definition a carpenter at all. Merry Christmas to you though. Love your videos.
30ish years on real job sites would suggest otherwise, but hey to each his own. I’ve taught a few friends this method and seen great results….so thanks for watching.
Remove superglue squeeze-out with your finger? Really?
It's why I wear gloves. I basically use my gloves as tissue paper. You really don't want to take your hands off the joint while you are holding it in place, and by the time the joint is solid, the glue is going to be dry. Also, super glue was originally designed FOR use on the body: it was a surgical tool for closing wounds.
That way you can use your finger to hammer in nails later on…😂
There is such a thing as CA glue solvent.
This method only works if the jambs are level and plumb and at right angles plus straight. In the real world you often have to cut your mitres at something other than 45. If a do it yourselfer followed this would lead to frustration and a poor fitting set of casings.
If your square door shuts in the jamb, this will work perfectly. If the door doesn’t shut properly you should adjust it before you install the casing.
Often the jambs are not straight and the reveal with your method will be all over the place. I use some scrap lengths to see if a 45 cut works, if it doesn't I cut at a slightly greater or lesser angle till the reveals follow the jamb uniformly
Please pay attention to 3:22 in this video!!! That is extremely dangerous to your health! It is called crossing your arms on a miter saw. You should NOT use a miter saw this way! (Use your right hand for the saw trigger PLEASE!) You can severely injure self when you cut your right hand or arm doing that!!!
The poster of this video needs to serve his subscribers better than this!
Huh? That’s a left handed cut.
Doesn't take int consideration the walls not being perfect 😮
"door trims" previously known as casing
I don’t like CA glue, it’ll crack it won’t last.
You yanks do everything way over the top! If you have the right thickness door jamb and your jamb is in wind with the wall you can mark your quirk measure and fit! Let’s not over complicate a simple process