Thank you! I just completed this job. Did everything you showed. It was so easy because of your amazing video. I am very grateful to you. Multiple shops I called couldn’t do the repair because they couldn’t get the OEM part. The one shop that could quoted me $900! I spent $50 total.
My Husband did just that, but he used a pair of jewelry snips plyers he got them from Walmart he cut the plastic clamps like butter then crush the hoses with vise-grips them removed the plastic he got a brass " T " size 3/4 by 3/4 by 3/4 and metal clamps from Home Depot He didn`t trust Plastic tubbing . thank you for posting this video
Thanks for this vid! Saved me a TON of money and frustration! O'Reilly by me did not have it in stock but was able to find it at Auto Zone. Auto Zone Part # H-343 $4.99 (3/4" sized ends) The correct hose clamps to fit over the 1" OD hose were $2.99 for a two pack (needed two) With tax, out the door cost was $11.82 *Tip - While I did start out using the Dremel to cut through the bands to remove the plastic hose clamp assembly, I found it much easier to use cutting pliers to snip the plastic where my Dremel tool had started the job.
Shark Bite tee from Lowe’s replaces this perfect. It’s labeled 1” but is undersized. Part number 818303. Brass fitting under seven bucks. The dorman help tee from the auto store fit very loosely into the hoses.
Saw the plastic tee at the auto parts places and several said the had to repair a year later. Just replace with a barbed end 3/4" brass tee from Lowes or hardware store and your fix is forever. Yes you will lose some coolant from the overhead heater core, so have some standing by to replace to full and enjoy your cheap repair with a brass tee and three stainless steel hose clamps.
Thanks for the video. I have the same truck and the same issue. I actually bought the same tee piece from Lowe's in brass. So I won't have the same issues down the road with it breaking down.
Perfect, I need to also do this. But I'm afraid it may be more as all coil over plugs are mildly flooded all the way to the last rear plug..no misfires at all though
Did the same. Turned the hoses down while crushing the plastic so the broken pieces don't get into the coolant system. Used a 1inch brass t fitting from Lowes. 2013 Ford Expedition Limited 5.4
Your welcome. There are about 2 other ones kinda like it, but I really like the dremmel tool, makes the plastic joint cutting so much easier. Plus, did not damage the hose. Just gives you options . . .
Hi, the video has 6 yrs. , any follow-up update on this repair ?? , do you know if it lasted ?? or was there any trouble with this part because of Temperature or pressure ?? Please let us know. I just did it on my 2008 Ford Expedition Tee with 100 Kmiles, I would like to know if I can be relax or I would have to keep a very close eye on it, your reply will be greatly appreciated by everyone. Thanks !!
Great question! So, I will tell you my situation and why I made this repair. #1: my hoses were still great. No cracks on the connection ends, no swollen spots on the hoses. #2: the only failure was the plastic, which gets brittle over time in this application, and that was my reason for this video. So, in my situation, I worried no more. If you go buy the new hose set from a part store, non-oem, you will see the same rubber hoses and ‘’metal” connectors for the ‘y’ and ‘T’ parts, which is what I replaced it with. If your hoses are good, you should be fine. I have these same cooling hoses on other navigators with 210k+ miles and no issue. You asked about this navigator, well, it ran around town for two years, daily driven by my teenager, no issue with this repair. These are tough SUV’s. I currently own 3, I worry about my next repair, which is a sunroof, not the engine. 😂. Just to say, my three navigators, all have over 200k miles, not thought about this again. Hope this helps.
I have the exact same problem with my 2007 exorer, but my engine overheated. It restarts, but doesn't hold a start and only keep with my foot on the gas or it dies. Sounds like a spark plug is clogged. Could this be the best accusation?
This is a good question. Overheating an engine can be a mixed bag of post event troubleshooting. In the 2008 Navigator, when the engine started running ‘hot’, immediately the computer shut off the A/C compressor. It gave us time to get off the road and trouble shoot to find this ‘leak’. Considering your Explorer, if you can get it run, that is a good sign, not holding idle without gas, could be an ignition coil or two failed. Can you borrow a tool to read any ‘codes’ from the OBDII port? That would be super helpful in this case. It might tell us if you have a cylinder misfire (spark plug or coil), or if we have another issue. Depending on how hot it got and how long it ran, you may have to look at a ‘head gasket’ that may have failed, which heads can warp pretty easy on an overheat. We can chat more on that later. Thank you for posting! Hope this points you in the right direction . . .
@@2horseman Thanks. Sounds like I'm on the correct path. Sounds like a spark plug issue alright. I'm aiming to replace them all. There are no codes showing on the instrument cluster. I think she has a good sign of recovering. I do know thay the coolant heater hose has a crack and is a known common issue. Navigators and Explorer share the same parts and have the same common issues.
No. When disconnecting the hose, you may have some coolant spill out. But remember, mine was leaking, my coolant level was low already, and this hose is above the engine block, so most of your coolant will gravity drain back down to lower levels in your engine. Great point to ask, and be sure to top off engine coolant once you fix the leak. / thanks for the comment
Just replaced the hose assembly with a “Dorman OE Solutions” hose set which cost $85. Came with all metal clamps and tees with new quick connect clips and fittings. Only trouble I had was the removing the connection at the heater core, that one was hard to get at!
NOT accurate information in this video !! 😠, Mine is an Expedition EL 2008 5.4 L, the T of 3/4" × 3way is not correct, the end of the hoses is stretched (cause of the original Tee) so you would need a Tee labeled as 1 inch on the 3 ends, the 3/4 one goes in too loose and it will leak most surely very quickly. Going to Lowes to get a bronze one Pex of 1", if I can't find one like it in Auto Parts, which today there were none, so I am guessing will have to go with a Pex/Lowes one as other two videos and hope will work. You can not cut those ends because then your hoses will be short and the one going to the firewall has a restrictor inside so the space is extremely limited. Tips: if you don't want to drain coolant, not need to, but, -make sure car is cool overnight better, -don't open the reservoir it will cause coolant to flow from the thermostat one and you will have coolant all over the place, - when you are dissambling the Tee, make sure to put good amount of towel underneath to pickup coolant and drain some on a little bowl., for the rest of the info here is good, make sure when you crush the end of the hoses to point downward and make sure you take out all that plastic crap, yes it is a piece of crap, use the pliers better faster & easier, using a dremel is risky you can cut something else. Will comment later if I accomplish the mission.
Appreciate the effort given to your reply. If what we do helps someone make a more informed decision, then we all win. While not all experiences are identical, at least we are supporting the community of owners. Thank you for the post.
This is only a temp fix. It will fail at some point for sure. Buy the replacement hoses please, quick connects are a pain but be creative and remove them. Don't leave your wife stranded. Good quality video though.
So instead of a under $10 fix that may or may not last a while I'm to buy the garbage that failed me in the first place? You must have stock in ford.😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you! I just completed this job. Did everything you showed. It was so easy because of your amazing video. I am very grateful to you. Multiple shops I called couldn’t do the repair because they couldn’t get the OEM part. The one shop that could quoted me $900! I spent $50 total.
My Husband did just that, but he used a pair of jewelry snips plyers he got them from Walmart he cut the plastic clamps like butter then crush the hoses with vise-grips them removed the plastic he got a brass " T " size 3/4 by 3/4 by 3/4 and metal clamps from Home Depot He didn`t trust Plastic tubbing . thank you for posting this video
Thanks for this vid! Saved me a TON of money and frustration!
O'Reilly by me did not have it in stock but was able to find it at Auto Zone.
Auto Zone Part # H-343 $4.99 (3/4" sized ends)
The correct hose clamps to fit over the 1" OD hose were $2.99 for a two pack (needed two)
With tax, out the door cost was $11.82
*Tip - While I did start out using the Dremel to cut through the bands to remove the plastic hose clamp assembly, I found it much easier to use cutting pliers to snip the plastic where my Dremel tool had started the job.
Shark Bite tee from Lowe’s replaces this perfect. It’s labeled 1” but is undersized. Part number 818303. Brass fitting under seven bucks. The dorman help tee from the auto store fit very loosely into the hoses.
Used this product today it worked perfect and looks a lot better than plastic. The 1" was perfect fit and #10 air plane clamps to secure the hoses.
Saw the plastic tee at the auto parts places and several said the had to repair a year later. Just replace with a barbed end 3/4" brass tee from Lowes or hardware store and your fix is forever. Yes you will lose some coolant from the overhead heater core, so have some standing by to replace to full and enjoy your cheap repair with a brass tee and three stainless steel hose clamps.
Nothing affects it by having a brass Tee?
You can replace that T with a brass pex T and be done with it for good.
Thanks for the video. I have the same truck and the same issue. I actually bought the same tee piece from Lowe's in brass. So I won't have the same issues down the road with it breaking down.
you just saved me a few hundred dollars! this was super easy and I had it done in about 20 minutes and it only cost me $11 in Canada!
THANKS YOUR VIDEO WAS GREAT AND SAVED ME A GOOD AMOUNT OF MONEY.
Perfect, I need to also do this. But I'm afraid it may be more as all coil over plugs are mildly flooded all the way to the last rear plug..no misfires at all though
I used channel lock pliers to crush them plastic flanges. Took just seconds to remove.
Did the same. Turned the hoses down while crushing the plastic so the broken pieces don't get into the coolant system. Used a 1inch brass t fitting from Lowes. 2013 Ford Expedition Limited 5.4
Thank u for making this video
Your welcome. There are about 2 other ones kinda like it, but I really like the dremmel tool, makes the plastic joint cutting so much easier. Plus, did not damage the hose. Just gives you options . . .
Just did this fix on my 2006 jeep commander but I used brass tees. It should out last the truck.lol
Hi, the video has 6 yrs. , any follow-up update on this repair ?? , do you know if it lasted ?? or was there any trouble with this part because of Temperature or pressure ?? Please let us know. I just did it on my 2008 Ford Expedition Tee with 100 Kmiles, I would like to know if I can be relax or I would have to keep a very close eye on it, your reply will be greatly appreciated by everyone. Thanks !!
Great question! So, I will tell you my situation and why I made this repair. #1: my hoses were still great. No cracks on the connection ends, no swollen spots on the hoses. #2: the only failure was the plastic, which gets brittle over time in this application, and that was my reason for this video. So, in my situation, I worried no more. If you go buy the new hose set from a part store, non-oem, you will see the same rubber hoses and ‘’metal” connectors for the ‘y’ and ‘T’ parts, which is what I replaced it with. If your hoses are good, you should be fine. I have these same cooling hoses on other navigators with 210k+ miles and no issue. You asked about this navigator, well, it ran around town for two years, daily driven by my teenager, no issue with this repair. These are tough SUV’s. I currently own 3, I worry about my next repair, which is a sunroof, not the engine. 😂. Just to say, my three navigators, all have over 200k miles, not thought about this again. Hope this helps.
After making the tee repair how do you get the coolant from around the spark plug sockets
Shop vac
I used wire cutters, easier
you can also just replace clamps with metal ones ,and if Tee is cracked then cont. to replace it
Do you know where is the ECT located?
I have the exact same problem with my 2007 exorer, but my engine overheated. It restarts, but doesn't hold a start and only keep with my foot on the gas or it dies. Sounds like a spark plug is clogged. Could this be the best accusation?
This is a good question. Overheating an engine can be a mixed bag of post event troubleshooting. In the 2008 Navigator, when the engine started running ‘hot’, immediately the computer shut off the A/C compressor. It gave us time to get off the road and trouble shoot to find this ‘leak’. Considering your Explorer, if you can get it run, that is a good sign, not holding idle without gas, could be an ignition coil or two failed. Can you borrow a tool to read any ‘codes’ from the OBDII port? That would be super helpful in this case. It might tell us if you have a cylinder misfire (spark plug or coil), or if we have another issue. Depending on how hot it got and how long it ran, you may have to look at a ‘head gasket’ that may have failed, which heads can warp pretty easy on an overheat. We can chat more on that later. Thank you for posting! Hope this points you in the right direction . . .
@@2horseman Thanks. Sounds like I'm on the correct path. Sounds like a spark plug issue alright. I'm aiming to replace them all. There are no codes showing on the instrument cluster. I think she has a good sign of recovering. I do know thay the coolant heater hose has a crack and is a known common issue. Navigators and Explorer share the same parts and have the same common issues.
My expedidition does the same thing 2010
Did you remove coolant before the fix?
No. When disconnecting the hose, you may have some coolant spill out. But remember, mine was leaking, my coolant level was low already, and this hose is above the engine block, so most of your coolant will gravity drain back down to lower levels in your engine. Great point to ask, and be sure to top off engine coolant once you fix the leak. / thanks for the comment
If your hose is 3/4" that'll be the "Dorman 47118" Call 1st as I went to five stores before finding the T-connector.
4 Ford Motor Co. investors dislike this video. They'd like their dealers to sell you a $100 "replacement" hose instead!
Sometimes it is just nice to get the Navigator back on the road without breaking the bank! Thanks for the comment!
Just replaced the hose assembly with a “Dorman OE Solutions” hose set which cost $85. Came with all metal clamps and tees with new quick connect clips and fittings. Only trouble I had was the removing the connection at the heater core, that one was hard to get at!
you could have save a lot twisting trying to get that hose off if slid something down beside it and the fitting and sprayed W-D 40 down it
What is the part number for the tee or is it 3/4 and 1 inch?
Chris Summers
The part is a 3/4" tee.
Ok thx because O'Reilly has 3/4 tee which means 2 sides are 3/4 and other side is 1 inch or 5/8
If I was you I wouldn’t use that particular t hose because it melts after about 6 to 8 months of use, trust me I know .. brass is the way to go
NOT accurate information in this video !! 😠,
Mine is an Expedition EL 2008 5.4 L,
the T of 3/4" × 3way is not correct, the end of the hoses is stretched (cause of the original Tee) so you would need a Tee labeled as 1 inch on the 3 ends, the 3/4 one goes in too loose and it will leak most surely very quickly. Going to Lowes to get a bronze one Pex of 1", if I can't find one like it in Auto Parts, which today there were none, so I am guessing will have to go with a Pex/Lowes one as other two videos and hope will work. You can not cut those ends because then your hoses will be short and the one going to the firewall has a restrictor inside so the space is extremely limited. Tips: if you don't want to drain coolant, not need to, but, -make sure car is cool overnight better, -don't open the reservoir it will cause coolant to flow from the thermostat one and you will have coolant all over the place, - when you are dissambling the Tee, make sure to put good amount of towel underneath to pickup coolant and drain some on a little bowl., for the rest of the info here is good, make sure when you crush the end of the hoses to point downward and make sure you take out all that plastic crap, yes it is a piece of crap, use the pliers better faster & easier, using a dremel is risky you can cut something else.
Will comment later if I accomplish the mission.
Appreciate the effort given to your reply. If what we do helps someone make a more informed decision, then we all win. While not all experiences are identical, at least we are supporting the community of owners. Thank you for the post.
Couldn’t you have just installed the hose clamps on the existing tee for the same results?
no, the clamps weren't leaking, the plastic rotted
This is only a temp fix. It will fail at some point for sure. Buy the replacement hoses please, quick connects are a pain but be creative and remove them. Don't leave your wife stranded. Good quality video though.
What are you saying will fail? Why would the whole replacement hose be any different?
So instead of a under $10 fix that may or may not last a while I'm to buy the garbage that failed me in the first place? You must have stock in ford.😂😂😂😂😂😂