Lincoln Navigator EGR Valve Replacement & Upper Intake Removal 2003
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- Опубликовано: 19 дек 2014
- This is a short video showing the EGR valve removal and replacement on my 2003 Lincoln Navigator. To remove the EGR valve, it required the removal of the upper air intake. This job took about 4 hours to complete, which could be less depending on your situation. I have about 220k miles on the Navigator and this job was quoted at $750 for the dealership to complete. I purchased the EGR valve for about $75 dollars. The rest was my time. Hope this video helps you plan work on your Navigator. Comment if you have questions. Thank you!
this video was so perfect ! I mean why doesn't everyone make videos like this fast video say the key things that need to be replaced and quick to the next step with just enough explanation. Thank you
I agree, none of the intermission narrative that some like to add since they are on camera. Straight to the point. Helped alot. thanks
Would of been helpful to show how you removed the rear bolts on the intake manifold
Nathan Clevenger I agree. That would be great, however, I will do my best to walk you through it. I used my socket set with three different length extensions and a swivel socket. In my experience, the bolts are easiest to break loose when the engine has sat overnight and is cold. The intake has a gasket that is reusable, so once you loosen all the bolts, remove the intake carefully, in a straight vertical pull, to avoid any twisting which can damage the gasket. My experience in removing the bolts also was best if I could keep the shortest ratchet extension possible and keep the applied force directly above the bolt. Good luck, thank you for posting a comment.
Or at least how many bolts am I looking for. Thanks a lot. Instead or que back 10sec 30 times to try and count in the 4 seconds of video focused on your hand with the exposed intake in the background.
This is much more difficult than shown. I dont even want to begin.😀
@@darieninvegas It's very difficult to get the back for bolts My hands are big I might even have to lift the body of few inches off the frame in order to get back then put it back together taking them out was almost impossible there's no way in hell I can get them back in without doing that
Great video. I learned a lot..
i see you replace your air idle control vale aslo , i replaced that and my throttle positioning sensor the other day and it still likes to shimmy when its idleing , seeing your video makes me wonder if this should be my next job... along with the fuel filter... thanks
This is helpful, thanks! My Navigator runs fine, but if I have an EGR problem I will know you to fix it. I recommend that anyone who owns a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury and has a android phone should get a cheap bluetooth connector for the OBD connector and download Forscan lite from the playstore. Super helpful, reverse engineered diagnostic program based on Ford dealership scan tools. You can graph EGR duty cycles and voltage, for example (as well as MAF, TP, IACV and many others).
If the EGR is at 100% at idle, proof the EGR is stuck open. Say it reads normal? Then look at the MAF and ECT. If the coolant trmperature reads -40 degrees, you know it is bad.
You can pull codes that are there but don't trigger a MIL. Wife's Windstar was stalling at stop signs and in the middle of turns. No trouble light. I pulled code and found "MAF intermittent fault." Graphed the MAF voltage and it was spiking all over the place. Replaced MAF with one from junkyard. Problem solved! Program was the best five bucks I have spent for my car repair needs.
Yes. I followed the same thought process as you. Started with my IAC valve, then my throttle body position sensor, then I replaced my Mass Air Flow meter (thinking the computer was getting bad data from the MAF), then my Cam Shaft Position Sensor, and Crank Shaft Position Sensor. I also bought a new EGR solenoid vacuum thinking that was a problem. All of the above were simple 1/2 hour or less jobs, but rendered no result until I tacked the EGR valve. It sounded like a new engine at idle once the EGR was changed out. Makes sense though, all that exhaust gas dumping deposits on the EGR reduces it stroke and eventually fails to seal off at idle, slowly over time.
Steven Ford awesome, because im getting real fed up with this engine, it even like to stall out on me sometimes just from coming to a stop because somewhere , air is being asphyxiated from the engine. i might just replace all the parts you did too as preventative maintenance . OH also, is it safe to just spray carb and choke cleaner down those holes? is that the way you should go about that, just wondering because i know mine are going to look just like that. Like wont all that gunk just fall down in there and build up somewhere else after doing that? thank you for your time!
Hey so I finally am tackling the egr valve ... It was such a hassle to get the intake manifold off but I finally got it off and now ....... I can't fit any fucking wrench back there to un mate the valve from the line ..... the manifold is so close to it I can't even rotate it... Please please pleas tell me what tool you used to do so... Or maybe I should try from the left side of the car but that looks damn near impossible
@@Vince3117 did you find out what tool he used to remove the EGR valve. very hard to get it out
What size wrench did you use to remove the EGR valve Steven
hi there ....can you tell me about the torque when install the intake Manifold or some other care.
If change plugs run it get it hot first makes a world of difference
Thank you
Did you do this before or after you did the new plugs and coils? - just wondering which one fixed your problem?
Do you know what the proper name for the transition flanges mine broke
What happen when there ticking noise on the engine?? I have the same car but ticking noise out of the engine
It is hard to loosen the hold down nut for the EGR valve. All the exhaust gas has more than likely corroded the threads. I sprayed it with WD-40 and let it soak for about an hour before I tried the nut. Be sure to unbolt it from the manifold first, then you can unbolt the EGR from the exhaust tube. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions. Trust me, your efforts are worth the performance improvement and cost savings.
Anyone know the actual part name for the "transition piece" I need one..
@@axtaxt2964 are you referring to the air intake / plenum? Going up to the intake?
@@2horseman yeah the piece between the intake and the egr valve. It's looks basically like and over engineered way to 45 up into the back of the intake.
@@axtaxt2964 take a look at this web site. Put in your VIN and search for parts around the intake manifold. They may not sell the part, but you can find a part number and then look it up on a secondary part web site. Hope this helps.
parts.nplincoln.com/a/Lincoln__Navigator/54165797__6490171/ENGINE-PARTS/MU03235.html
so this helped your rough idle issue then?
Any tips for doing the spark plugs on the passenger side? 1999 Navigator
bigggmustang73 I would take my time, remove as much cooling and air intake hoses as you can to give you good working access. Sometimes, you actually will save time overall by removing more interference parts for better working access to the plugs. Don't take a shortcut on the job and you will be happier overall.
Grasias amigo. Hoy la linpio gradias
De Nada Amigo. Encantado de ayudar.
What size is the big nut on the pipe?
Awesome! What did you use to pinpoint that your EGR valve failed? Does the computer throw and store a code?
It was strictly engine performance. I did not get a code. However, I could see it possibly giving you a code, since exhaust gas has lower O2, and by design mixing less fresh air and more exhaust gas on idle, may make your O2 sensors drop and get low on the range. Just a theory. However, my main key was the “struggle” of the engine on idle. When the EGR is stuck open, and air flow is overall lower on idle, now you have less oxygen getting into your engine, causing the rough idle. My engine felt like it was on the point to stalling, just never did. Also, you may see the idle air control valve start pulsing, causing the engine to “hunt” for an RPM range between 550 and 700. Just trying to breath. Honestly, you will never see this issue on lower mileage engines, it is only the ones beyond 150k miles that this slowly creeps in. Your big V8 should idle like a sweet machine, and this valve stay closed. Hope this helps.
1998 navigator runs fine . But get a P0401 code. But car runs fine. What could it be?
Well, the p0401 code is EGR related. It is going to deal with some level of feedback coming from the EGR to the Power Control Module, which will throw the code. My guess you are in the early stages of a failing EGR valve. Because the EGR is handling smut exhaust gas all the time, you will see a slow fade in response until one day either idle or acceleration is struggling, because the valve is hung open or closed. In my opinion, drive it until you see a performance fade. My was on idle, because it was getting exhaust gas when it needed fresh O2. That is usually where it starts showing issues on idle. You may get lucky, and get another 5-10k miles before it gets noticeable. If so, great. How many miles do you have on the car now?
do u know how to get the valve cover off to replace the gasket I'm having problems
Mike Pierce
Yes. I just used a standard socket set with an extension to reach down to the top of the bolts. Make sure you have a cold engine. I suggest sitting overnight. Make sure the socket is snug over the top of the bolt, any slack will result in round off the nut by slipping off. Consider a metric set (mm) and adjust till the socket is tight. Then, normal force will break it loose. A cold engine is key also. Hope this helps.
Hey Steven what size wrench did you use on the egr mounting nut?
It was either an 8mm or 10mm wrench. Make sure you have a good snug fit on the top of the nut with your wrench. The nuts were froze, somewhat, so you may want to soak them in penetrating oil first.
how u know that need to replace EGR valve? what codes did u get by OBD? My Navigator has 105k miles, Should I replace it with the new one? and what symptoms u have with the old EGR valve?
Looking 4 that answer my self ?
Any opinion on a 98 navigator, same engine as yours. -- Radiator hose is getting rock hard with extreme pressure on a cold start up and check engine light started flashing. -- I have a misfire on cylinder 5 (305 code). - I’m thinking a blown head gasket causing the extreme pressure in the radiator hose and also would be the cause of the 305 misfire. -- I removed the pressure spring from radiator cap to relieve the pressure. -- Any opinions on the cause of the extreme pressure in the radiator hoses Along with the cylinder 5 misfire with the flashing check engine.
Well. I think there are a few items I would look at. 1) is your coolant pump functioning properly? 2) is there some art of blockage in the flow that would cause the coolant to ‘move slower’ and pick up more heat and creat more pressure. I would look at the lower radiator hose, I have seen these get hot and collapse, restricting suction to the pump. I have seen some of the older models have a coil inserted in the lower hose to prevent it from collapsing when it got hot. Replacing the hose with a newer, thicker walled hose, would be an improvement.
The misfire on one cylinder is probably a bad plug or coil over plug. It can be as simple as swapping that to restore it. Also, I have seen oil leak up the plug to the coil and short out the spark path. Look for oil. Probably based on the age engine age, you may have some leakage around the valve cover gaskets, that may allow oil to get into the spark plugs on the top side, and create a miss fire. (Just some thoughts).
Steven I also have a 2003 navigator...exhaust fumes are leaking thru the air vents could this be the cause or could it be a bad catalytic converter??
It would depend. If you are smelling exhaust, are you at idle (such as stopped in traffic) or does it also occur while driving. I would think you would notice engine performance issues with an EGR leak, and could have a slight smell outside the vehicle when it was running and parked. There are two joints before the EGR that could be loose allowing for an exhaust leak. The cats leaking is less likely, in my opinion. I would look at an exhaust coupling joint or even a rusted out spot in the exhaust piping allowing gas to escape before the tail pipe. A new cat can run you $800-$1100 to buy and install, I would be sure before I dove off into that. It would be worth a $75 service check at Ford. If they find the real problem, you could take it home and do the work yourself. Hope that helps.
Yes the smell occurs the moment you turn on the vehicle and also while your driving. As far as performance it hasn't stalled or pulled back when I accelerate. It does drive pretty smooth, minus the smell. Thanks for replying.
Hello where can I find the traditional piece..2004 mine is stripped cause air leaks etc.
I am thinking calling some salvage lots. Ford might still sell it, but you could try and see. I like car parts web sites to find cars that match my year make and model, then just call and ask what parts they have left.
Would help if you put rags in the intake holes
You bring up a good point, wanted to follow it for a minute. Dropping objects or trash in the intake can create immediate, significant damage. Covering the holes and taking the extra step to prevent “foreign objects”. Great comment. Thanks
Can you not get to it by removing only the rear intake? I'm going to try that 1st. yeah it's gonna be tight but will save a shitload of work
I would be interested in how that works for you. I needed some access for my tools, along with my hands, but I am sure there are several approaches that can work. Keep in mind, due to the fact the main job of this valve is to handle “waste gas” (exhaust), my experience is they are froze, almost rotten into place, and aggravating to break free. Use some penetrant oil, to give you a head start and I hope it works for you. Just don’t stress it too hard if you don’t get the fitting to break loose. If you damage the line, you can create an exhaust gas leak point, that can ruin a day. Good luck! Let me know if it works.
Hello 👋🏼 I'm looking for that transitional piece egr
Well, it could be hard to find, and you might call around to some salvage lots that have your year model and ask. I have found them to be very helpful if they have the car match on their lot.
Do you know what the name of the part that has three hoses and connects to the intake manifold? It has two coolant hoses and one vacuum hose that leads to the pcv valve, to attaches to the right side of the intake manifold ( your left side, if you're facing the engine)
Well, mine broke as I was removing the coolant lines.
Que motor es
Whats the torque specs
I have this code and is shaking pretty bad this could ge the problem
Grasias loboy acanbiar grasias
Would a faulty EGR valve cause engine hesitation or shutter when idle and poor gas mileage.
A faulty EGR can cause engine hesitation & poor idle. Reasoning, your engine at higher RPM’s is getting a better mixture of exhaust gas (with little oxygen for combustion) and fresh air (with good oxygen for combustion. However, when you idle, the ERG should close off only allow a little fresh air into the engine. If it stays open or partly open, then you are pulling exhaust back into the engine, which has no oxygen, and you are stalling the engine out.
Also, depending on what year your car is, you may have a faulty coil over plug assembly. Those can cause hesitation under acceleration if they don’t fire correctly. Those are an easy change and should be done about every 100,000 miles or so. Much beyond that, you are on borrowed time before they start to go out. (Just an idea to consider)
@@2horseman I replace the IAC idling better but if I disconnect the intake air breather it won't stay running if I don't press the gas installing at normal idle
Where are the bolts in the back located please help 🙏
So far in the back you could barely see them
How much is this job if you take to a mechanic?
It would be a guess for me, since I am not a mechanic. However, I would think it could be done in about 2-hours (for an experienced person), price of the part. Say about $250 total? I think you can take it to a local dealership, for $75 they will confirm the problem and quote you a price. That is the best way to get an accurate $ for the job.
You should start the motor first so we can hear what kind of noise was doin before switch the the EGR valve
Antonio Elias Good point. That would be helpful. The rough idle sounded like it was on the 'edge' of stalling out, with engine RPM's around 450. It was getting the recirculating exhaust gas (inert gas) that is oxygen deficient, causing low idle. After driving it for over 180k, I knew it sounded wrong, and the engine 'felt' like it was not getting air. So, these parts are not going to last forever and I hoped to pass along some helpful troubleshooting if you have similar mileage and idle issues like this car did. Trust me, idle was like a new engine once I changed this $75 part. I was amazed. If you don't have the higher mileage like this one, it may not be your EGR valve. Thanks for posting.
hey, Why do you Chance it?
Mostly due to rough idle. When that valve gets ‘exhaust recirculated’ gunk in it, the valve will tend to stick and not open/close fully (or at all). I found that after about 150,000 miles, you might start seeing this issue, very likely at 200,000 miles. However, it is costly for the dealer to replace the part ($750). So, most people want a solution that saves money.
Would be nice to see the problem happen before you fix it so other people can compare it to your problem both visually and audibly.....FYI
You bring up a great point & thank you for sharing. This was one of my earlier videos. The more I have done over time, I try to photo the ‘issue’ real time before I start the repair. It does help to match up the ‘sound’ or ‘failure’ to what you are experiencing on your car. Thanks for posting feedback.
Awesome.....I try to be constructive when I find a video I see an issue with if for no other reason than the idea that someone may make another video with the same issue just because noone pointed it out to them. Perspective helps when provided properly. Even though I am a complete asshole in real life and was cursing you like an idiot when I was watching the video.....I was frustrated because I had been searching for 30 mins and every video I watched had the same probpem....LMAO.....I was stuck between cursing mad and laughing my ass off.....so I figured I would point it out for your viewers sakes in the possible future videos....LOL...But in all honesty thanks for taking the time to at least try so others could benefit !
this video isn't really helpful. I know what screws amd thjngs I have to remove because I'm seeing them with my own eyes. but you skip ahead the actual removal of the components WHICH IS THE MAIN REASON FOR THIS VIDEO!
you focus too much on looking professional. if I was a professional mechanic I wouldn't be watching this.
I disagree. If you need more than what he has provided, you probably shouldn't be doing this level of repair. He points out what to do and where the bolt locations are. He isn't here to spoonfeed the mechanic newbies. The old schoolers like myself just need the process flow. I'm changing my valve cover gaskets and have to remove the exhaust blow by pipe. He's shown me where it connects, and the parts to remove in order to get to it.
And P.S. They are called bolts, not screws.
@@papafrank7094 such a hater
@@isaacd5845 Hater? Not in the least.
Please...This vid would have been MUCH more helpful had you VIDEO'D as the mechanic was DOING this job. Why could you not have just made video of thee whole process (as others do). I'm an ASE cert. Master Tech & i can tell you almost ANYBODY can, in 4 min. point & "tell" me how to do it.