Big Maxx Furnace: How I Heated My Pole Garage and Saved $

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  • Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
  • This install video is for entertainment purposes only. Please hire a licensed professional if your unsure of how to install any component.
    Big Maxx Furnace is now installed! I saved money by installing myself and hopefully provide a few tips if your thinking about taking on this project yourself. Can't wait to have some heat this winter and work on finishing up wall insulation. Please leave your questions and comments below.
    Flashers #3 Silicone Grey High Temp Flexible Roof Jack Pipe Boot - a.co/d/2Y2q6M0
    Quick-Sling Furnace mount - a.co/d/0WYHNaL
    Big Maxx Furnace - www.menards.co...
    Honeywell T5 Thermostat - a.co/d/bBoxyKl

Комментарии • 44

  • @markbarnes9409
    @markbarnes9409 10 месяцев назад +3

    Joe,
    My sincere appreciation for your efforts to put together this video. I have been plowing through numerous DIY videos as I produce plans to install a 50,000 BTU Big Maxx unit in my 1,200 Sq. Ft. insulated pole barn. Yours is by far one of the best and most complete of the many I have suffered through. I wish the search would have listed yours much earlier. Two thumbs up to you. Thanks much.

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +1

      I appreciate all the kind words. Glad I could help with ideas for your install. Since making this video I made some minor updates to the gas line fittings right beside the furnace. If you look at the community posts on my channel you’ll see my update.

    • @davidh.8513
      @davidh.8513 9 месяцев назад

      I`m not so sure that a 50,000 BTU will be big enough.

  • @s.a.stewart2743
    @s.a.stewart2743 10 месяцев назад +9

    Retired plumber here, Up by the garage heater you have the union and the shut off valve in the wrong locations. You want to be able to shut the gas off to the unit so you can undo the union right there. Also the dirt leg should be on a drop, not just pointing down on a tee. Easy fix, shut off the gas at the house coming to the pole barn. Remove everything from the union to the flexie. Starting by the 1x1/2 90 reinstall the valve, nipple, union, nipple, 45, nipple, 90 pointing down, nipple, tee with flexie hooking up on the side of it, and the dirt leg on the downside.

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +1

      Really appreciate your expertise. I’ll switch this around when I install the inside wall steel since I need to take it apart then. Thanks for the comment!

    • @mikeward2890
      @mikeward2890 10 месяцев назад +1

      Uncaught by the untrained eye. Thanks for the tip!

  • @ThomasZuhlke-z1d
    @ThomasZuhlke-z1d 8 месяцев назад +1

    Again, nice job, you do good work, it's always a great feeling when you finish. If I had natural gas where I am I would have done the same thing. Instead I went with two 36,000 BTU Mitsubishi mini-splits. A little pricey but very happy with how they perform, heat and AC.

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  8 месяцев назад

      Thanks for the compliment! I’m curious this season with the added wall insulation if that will keep some heat away. A mini split would be nice and I’m sure they are well worth the cost not to mention AC would be amazing in the summer to have!

  • @michaelhouy1382
    @michaelhouy1382 9 месяцев назад +1

    That was certainly alot of work and it turned out very nice. Im working on mine now. Using a Modine 60000btu..and yes..more expensive than the Mr. Heater. I'm not hanging it from the ceiling. I've fabricated a support assembly for underneath the unit with unistrut. With substantial bracing, it will be very strong. Im also mounting my black pipe on the
    finished interior surface..as we'll as my elctrical in conduit. It just makes accessibility that much better for me. Again...very nice, clean install.

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  9 месяцев назад

      A lot of work indeed. Modine makes a good heater and was my 2nd choice. Sounds like you’ll be warm in no time once you get yours finished. Thanks for checking out the video!

  • @FRANKLIN-nu6wo
    @FRANKLIN-nu6wo Месяц назад +2

    Good job in your overview of instillation of your furnace - thank you!
    👍

  • @markpugh5357
    @markpugh5357 10 месяцев назад +3

    Nice installation! Just finished my 32'X30' post frame building and I'm planning on putting a very similar heating unit in. Can you tell me what size vent pipe and thimble you used? and did you run the double wall pipe for the whole length of the vent run?

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +2

      It’s actually 4” CAT III venting single wall. For horizontal runs it’s required since it’s full stainless. With the thimble installed and also keeping in mind a few inches of air gap around it I have no worries with it getting too hot going through the wall. You’ll love having heat in the building!

  • @ifreerideus
    @ifreerideus 6 месяцев назад +2

    How many square feet you heating? And what state do you live in? And what's the cost to heat it in the winter?
    Great video!!
    Thanks

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  6 месяцев назад +2

      Garage is 34x50 with 14’ ceilings which you have to account for when heating. This past winter I was working in it a lot finishing the interior out and in the worst month in Ohio it may have added $20 to my bill. I kept it around 56-58 when out working in it and around 45 at night. Thanks for checking out the video!

  • @austinw638
    @austinw638 4 месяца назад +1

    Excellent install! I'm getting ready to install the same heater. Is there a requirement for the horizontal vent pipe to be a certain amount of feet below the eaves on the outside? I have the same eaves/building as you. No windows or openings nearby. Thanks!

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  4 месяца назад

      Thanks appreciate the comment. The directions say vent termination must be 4’ below or 4’ horizontal from any soffit vent. Mine is a little over 3’ which is as far as I could get away. I think the main point is to keep the flue gasses from being drawn into the soffit vent. I put a CO2 detector in the attic for a little while and never had any problems.

    • @austinw638
      @austinw638 4 месяца назад +1

      @@journeys-with-joe that’s what I was thinking too. I’m the same in that I can’t quite get 4 feet from it. My eaves/soffits do not vent inside the building so I assumed there’s no issue. My plumber wants everything inspected after they do the gas line so I’d hate for the inspector to get picky about this when I’ve already cut a hole in the wall for thimble/vent 😂. I’m thinking of just having the plumber run the gas line and cap it, then I’ll install the heater afterward

  • @Overpar73
    @Overpar73 10 месяцев назад +3

    Very nice install bud! I'm currently working on my building, 60x120x18, we just got the steel installed on the roof last week. I'm going to be installing in floor heat and that system is going to cost me my leg, arm and first born!!

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад

      Wow that’s big building for sure your working on. The in floor heating will definitely be worthwhile in the long run too! Thanks for checking out the video!

  • @kevincarnes7598
    @kevincarnes7598 11 месяцев назад +1

    Nice job!! It’s really coming together!!

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  11 месяцев назад +1

      Thanks for watching. Yes some days I feel I’m not making much progress but this was a good addition to allow me to work a little more comfortably through the winter.

  • @fredkaminski3668
    @fredkaminski3668 10 месяцев назад +2

    Nice install, but could have you run the underground gas line closer to the furnace to cut down on the black pipe or move the furnace?

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад

      Thought about both but didn’t want the furnace on that side in case I put a lean-to later the exhaust vent would be a problem. Should have planned better and ran the poly pipe and riser around the building from the beginning. To excavate and move it now was more expensive and a lot more work since my landscaping is all complete around it now. Thanks for checking out the video!

  • @JosephNyitrai
    @JosephNyitrai 23 дня назад +1

    Do you have place or part# for the boot? Thanks Joe

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  23 дня назад

      Thanks for checking out the video! The Amazon link for the boot is in the video description. I checked and still available.

  • @jasonhill2180
    @jasonhill2180 10 месяцев назад +1

    Very nice! I'm debating on a unit heater like yours vs a typical upflow furnace for my shop. Hope it works well for you.

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +1

      My only complaint so far is lack of fan circulation. Wish there was some sorta of squirrel cage blower to put more warm air further out. I’ve since installed a ceiling fan which really helps though.

  • @dfnc03
    @dfnc03 10 месяцев назад +2

    Did you ever mention why you had to run so much pipe inside the garage and didnt just mount it above where the line came in?

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +1

      Planning for the future is the biggest issue when building. Once I started using the garage I realized I may want to add a lean-to or just park a larger camper on the side where the gas line comes in. The furnace exhaust on that side would not work then. If I did it again I definitely would have had the line run around the back when it was excavated. Was cheaper and quicker by far to run the pipe inside then tear all my landscaping up again though. Appreciate the great question!

  • @allmountain5334
    @allmountain5334 10 месяцев назад +1

    it looks like it is sloped into the unit, isn't it supposed to be 1/4 inch per foot downhill from the unit like a drain?

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +2

      Yeah you would think but the instructions for this furnace specifically state 1/4” per ft upward slope. I assume since it’s not high efficiency they are more concerned with the flue gases rising than the condensation not evaporating when the unit runs.

    • @allmountain5334
      @allmountain5334 10 месяцев назад +1

      I saw the same when I just looked at my Mr. Heater manual! You are correct!! Weird! I thin your analysis is correct about the gas

  • @markpugh5357
    @markpugh5357 10 месяцев назад

    So you used a 5" diameter thimble?
    Thanks for replying back. Good info!

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад

      They actually call it a 4” thimble but it’s designed for the 4” CAT III pipe so inner diameter is more like 5” at least for an air gap. If you stick with all 4” pipe and fittings you’ll be good as long as 4” is what your heater calls for.

  • @cackerson10
    @cackerson10 10 месяцев назад +1

    Great looking installation, just curious the dimensions your heating with this? L x W x H

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +1

      Garage is 34x50x14. The high ceilings do make it challenging to get the heat to the floor. I’ve since installed a ceiling fan which really helps.

  • @vanbrown4022
    @vanbrown4022 10 месяцев назад +1

    There should be a shut off going to the house also after the meter

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +1

      Maybe but must not be required in my area since that part was installed when they built the house. Thanks for checking out the video!

  • @johndillinger7600
    @johndillinger7600 10 месяцев назад +3

    That drip leg is wrong

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  10 месяцев назад +1

      Yes I need to change it around. I’ll be doing the inside wall soon and will take it back apart at that time and switch it so the leg is on a vertical downstream run instead of horizontal. Appreciate you checking out the video!

  • @larrylingen8423
    @larrylingen8423 9 месяцев назад

    pipe splices are not allowed inside a wall !!!

    • @journeys-with-joe
      @journeys-with-joe  9 месяцев назад +1

      My plumber that gave an estimate would have installed the same way. Actually talked to him after and no issues. I do know you can’t have unions behind walls but pipe, elbows, T’s, couplers based on the code in my area are fine. I can also easily access later from the outside since all exterior metal is just installed with screws.