Also yeah slower videos are fine, your audience is mini builders after all, we enjoy slower detailed content. And if people think it's too slow then they can just watch at 1.25 or 1.5 speed.
Lovely little build and great to have an insight on how you go about the basics. I would love a slower build video, it’s fascinating watch you models come together.
I'd enjoy a detailed step-by-step set of videos as I couldn't quite grasp some of the decisions made when sizing the pieces. Thanks for this as I did learn a few things anyways. I love your attention to detail!
Simple? Maybe for you Michael but for us older folk with shaky hands, not so much lol. However, joking apart, it amazes me how you always manage to get so much character into everything. What a superb addition to Chandwell. Any videos explaining methods and techniques are always welcome. Cheers, Bob.
I always learn something new when watching your videos Michael, and this one was no exception! Using small clamps to keep building sides aligned within a jig hadn't occurred to me yet was such a simple idea - so thanks for that! And yes, I'd love to see more detailed longer builds! There are so few people showing this type of build video for N gaugers and techniques that work for our larger scale modellers don't always work well for us! All the best, Ian.
Amazing attention to detail as always, and every single video gives me a new technique or tool to try out (crochet hooks this time). I particularly love how you went to the trouble of giving the side and back walls full texture and treatment, even though they'll probably never be seen - no compromises in Chandwell. Bravo 👍 I'll add my voice to those who'd enjoy and appreciate step-by-step tutorials - cheers PS I think the cloudy, milky windows actually look great, like there was once that old-school whitewash applied sometime in the past, which has since all but washed away, or just old glass that hasn't been cleaned for years
Thank you - good advice re the windows. And yeah, maybe I overdid the side textures in this case. I didn't fully appreciate how snug a fit it would be under the arch!
Micheal, It is always a good thing for we veterans of the craft to restart our tutorial styling for those newbies just entering the craft. It's a starting point for our next generation. One thought. You had printed out two signs for the building. Instead of having to select one or the other why not add to the far front corner of the structure a door. Then you could attach the Scott sign to the front right corner with an arrow indicating the youngster's entrance is around the corner. Jim in N.Y.
Fantastic! I love how you show us your planning and thought process. I would never have thought to take the other sections thickness and paint into account.
Excellent first effort as a tutorial. Definitely has potential as a side-series. The scoring on the roof at first look, looked more like individual slices glued on, so well done there. Thanks for another great video.
Michael Really like seeing you applying the same treatment to the smaller humble buildings, as the grander ones. Also how you take one of your own photo and turn it into a texture, for you’re buildings. For a model, could this be applied to other textures like a cobble roadway that was different to the other textures found online. Think the wood turner is a good call as without windows, a hut would not have been a very good for Scouts, unless it was the store for camping equipment for the Scouts & Guides which belonging to the Methodist Church before they moved out and Revs moved in. The darker blue patch on the front wall suggests a earlier sign rather like a ghost sign. Also like seeing the basic ground work and bridge in front of the viaduct & under the arches as a taste for things to come, simple but effective. Ian
Thank you So very Much for this basic introduction to how you use Inkscape and Gimp and other programs (all free) to build you magnificent (and not so magnificent) buildings. I am ever impressed with your results and YES, I would LOVE to see a detailed how to on ANYTHING that you do as every video is instructional, inspirational, exciting, entertaining and always interesting. Here in Australia the videos arrive Saturday Mornings and I always look forward to them. I must admit, I have copied some of your techniques and even some of your videos to rewatch them on a regular basis as they are going to be my guides for paper construction of my layout if and when I ever get free of the many contracts I need to fulfill at the moment. I had hoped to start the layout at Easter this year but the work has grown to force my hand throughout the Winter Possibly start around October I hope... Maybe I should retire...Hmmm like that would ever happen Still - once abain THANK YOU for this excellent video and what a great looking wood turners shed!
Brilliant as usual Michael. I am always keen to get more detail, and especially how you use GIMP. You breeze through your videos as though what you do is so easy, and we all know that what you do is far from easy. Whatever you have time to prepare. Its your call Michael. Thanks.
I’ve just been admiring your modelling in the recent British Railway Modelling. What an excellent model that really captures the atmosphere of the time and location. It must bring you a lot of satisfaction. Enjoy completing the rest of the layout. Regards. Patrick
Great to see, how much attention and work you even pay to such a small(ish) project - even if the finished building has to park in the arch of the bridge. Btw: classy cap, you wear on your strolls Michael. I have a small collection of similar caps, which I do wear all through the year (some kind of a signiture piece of mine). All the best Valentin
Nice one Michael. I do something similar but instead of Inkscape I use a Silhouette Portrait cutter. Having designed a building I allow the cutter to do all the work. Keep up the good work because there is so much information that can be utilised in your videos.
Nice touches using the actual building it's based on and the texture on the roof. I have some printed roof materials I've been shying away from using, but now you've given me some ideas. Cheers
A very nice addition to Chandwell's buildings. I'm still unsure if I have the skills to attempt a building but this would be a perfect practice piece. I'm going through the Inkscape videos at the moment and trying to get my swede around that part, I'm building up a collection of cardboard and clear plastic and hopefully will get round to sorting my printer out finally. I still have no layout or plans to have one, so where I'll put anything I build remains a bit of a mystery 😂😂
Excellent little project. As others have commented a more detailed lesson in using inkscape and gimp would be useful. I've never used such trickery but having the ability would be a great addition to the arsenal when building models.
Michael, as always, I am impressed with the incredible results you get from very simple - and inexpensive! - materials. I especially liked the way you embossed ribs onto the roofing - it's little details like this that make your work stand out. In this case, however, I think you would have been better served by taking a few liberties with the dimensions of the hut. By placing the hut under the arch, the size of the hut is magnified. As you pointed out, it doesn't even look as though there was room for the builders to apply the exterior siding along the sides of the hut. If you had reduced the width of the hut by four feet, and decreased the peak height proportionately, the hut would have fit into the arch more reasonably. Normally, you prepare building mockups, and perhaps you did so this time as well; in which case I would assume you made a conscious choice in favor of the very tight fit under the arch. But thinking as an engineer, if I were tasked with building this hut under the arch, I would've either extended the walls all the way to the stone arch, and braced the framing tight up against the stone, or allowed space for the construction crew to work along the sides. Anyway, that's just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions...
Thank you for your considered advice. Much of what you have said has passed my thoughts at some point... My thinking originated with a picture of the old viaduct in Ilkley which had at least one hut under it which looked like it filled the space almost completely. It may have been the angle of the photo, but I was inspired to really "squeeze in" a hut. I supposed at the time that it was prefabricated and then slotted into place in the arch. But yes, this one does fill the space. There's another example in Farsley, but that is brick-built and does, like you say, join onto either side of the arch. Since the clad wooden sides in my case cannot be seen, we can always imagine that the sides have been built of breezeblock or something and not question too much how the thing was built in the first place. Your points are all very valid, but I think for now, I will leave it as-is unless it starts to irk me! :)
@@Chandwell I hope my nitpicky comments don't obscure what I have said many times: you always manage to achieve stunning results from very modest materials. Your modeling approach reminds me of the efforts of model railroaders back in the 1930s and 1940s, when there was no such thing as laser-cut kits, and no ready supply of commercial detail parts.
Not at all - honestly. These kinds of constructive comments really help. Sometimes I’ve already considered it but sometimes not. If you didn’t offer the comments, there would never be that “ah of course!” Moment that happens sometimes. I really appreciate it!
I think these videos on the more basic buildings are great, really gives a decent illustration of the principles which I need a reminder/kick with every now and again! With this and the other small building video I can see you’ve got away from wrap round corners with textures - I had got this into my head as a must learning with ScaleScenes but you’ve shown it’s not needed at all and the edges are much better. I’m glad you’ve shown the textures going on with PVA as again, using the kits, I’d got it into my head to use Pritt Stick. This looks much more user friendly. I do have an Inkscape question, I find the export to PDF makes huge file sizes! My home printer isn’t very good and I’ve emailed things to a better printer, but the sizes are massive. I’ve had a toy with the settings and looked online but can’t seem to fix it. Thought I’d ask if you knew of a workaround! Cheers Michael and wishing the best for now, take care : )
Yes, I have started using straight edges rather than wrapped ones, although both techniques come in handy. I think this non-wrapped approach gives a crisper line but it is completely non-forgiving with any amount of mis-measurement. I use PVA for almost everything. I find it so easy to use. Yes, export to PDF makes HUGE files as the full-sized textures in each element needs to be included in the file, once per use. So even if you just have a few tiny patches of wall, but each one has the full texture clipped to it, the texture gets included in the PDF once per element. A tip is to arrange them all for printing, then put a big white rectangle behind the whole lot. Then export the rectangle as an 800dpi PNG file. Import the PNG file and then export THAT as the PDF. The file will be much smaller.
@@Chandwell Thanks so much Michael, I really appreciate the reply and the help with the PDF export. I had a very quick look at this before going out to work earlier and will be having another play about with this when I get a chance. Can’t wait to get on Inkscape again to look at this - the biggest PDF I’ve managed to make was 32MB which I was quite stunned by - and there wasn’t that much texture on it. You’ve explained why this happened very well which I’m really grateful for. Agree with PVA - my little layout is practically built on the stuff! It’s so affordable, easy to buy and so useful. I like seeing it used so much in the videos, proves how good a glue it is. I agree with you on UHU being the devils glue - though it sticks quickly, and sticks well - the stringiness of it really lets things down. I try to avoid it where possible. You should have a PVA factory in Chandwell! Such a notable employer that some residents say the town was built on it : ) Thanks again Michael and I really appreciate the replies, top man : )
@@Chandwell Thanks for all the replies Michael, Chandwell proving to be the ‘go-to’ place for scratchbuilding. I’ve been back a few times over the last couple of days to look for tips to get around some issues in the new build design. There’s a high chance of the use of electrical tape and lots of layers being factored in 👍🏼
Superb video. With a simple building like this it gives budding builders a possibility of achieving a finished product from which to expand their skills. I love watching your more complicated structures take shape, but a few simpler exercises showcasing a particular technique would be a good filler.
It looks a lot thicker on the video than it is in reality. Measuring it with my callipers, it's 0.22mm in place on the front of the shed, so that's a scale 32.5mm. On the real shed, the sign seems to be on two layers of 9mm ply, which would make it 18mm, so yes, I guess I should have used one sheet of paper rather than two! :) But seriously, in place, from a normal viewing angle, it's not a big deal, and if it's read as an extractor fan or similar, then that's fine too. But it's worth remembering for future how thick a piece of paper really is! :)
@@Chandwell True enough! And there's such variation in paper thickness too, of course. I was always a 4mm modeller, but I must say that I'm feeling inspired by your work to do in 2mm an industrial building that I've always wanted to do but have always been unfeasibly large to model in 4mm, an Oxfordshire cloth mill.
Detailed enough in my opinion. Only the gimp hint didn't trigger any clues. I still wonder how the matt varnish does't affect the print colour. I had to redo my concrete yard as it turned to orange.
Hello Michael I have used the jigs from Scale Model Scenery if it helps I tend to use the waxed packaging from cereal between the jig and items as long as you have a very good fold then the item can be left and does not stick to either.
Brilliant stuff. These videos would work really well every now and again as tutorials - another string to your channel's bow. It's also really reassuring to see you making mistakes and fixing them.
Hi Michael how do you use Gimp to align a building I'm rather new to this as I have never used it before. do you have a video on this or can point me to a tutorial. Love what you have done to this a tutorial would be most interesting.
Wow! Thank you ever so much - that is incredibly kind of you! This was a very generous gift and worth several times a membership. Thank you. It means a lot to know I've helped and inspired you through my videos.
The back story behind the shed. Brian "Digger" Purvis having made his fortune prospecting for gold in Australia has returned to his home town of Chandwell with his pockets jingling and jumped in front of the 4th Chandwell Scouts and beaten them to "The Hut" to create his strange wood turnings. At least, that's his story, but there's one young reporter who smells a bit of a rat and does a bit of digging. Will Britney Scoggins uncover the mysterious sailings on the River Chander late at night and just exactly what is being turned in "The Hut"?
Hello Michael. Great channel and you’ve been inspiring in my model buildings for my railway. I have a question on the varnish step. I’ve not had any success with brush applying varnish as it makes the ink run on my prints. I’m using an HP Inkjet printer with HP cartridges on standard paper but whenever I apply varnish (thankfully to test pieces) is simply bleeds all of the print together. I see you’re using AK varnish the same as me but you don’t have this issue. I’m interested in what printer and paper you use for your models. Many thanks and thanks again for a great channel.
Hi David... You're not the first to say that an I am intending to one day do some experiments and make a video. I use Canon rather than HP printer and ink, so I can't rule out the ink itself, BUT, my printer ink on the backscene runs if I even look at it and THINK "wet", so I am almost certain its my paper. I use matt photo paper and the ink is dry as soon as it touches it - it won't smudge when dabbed with wet, and PVA doesn't cause it to run either. Full details are in this video: ruclips.net/video/-QvdNFST7WU/видео.html
@@Chandwell Thank you Michael. I watched the recommended video (and a bit of a binge watch again on many others of yours) and ordered some new supplies. I'm well underway on my next build and so far, so good. No more running of the ink on the prints. I also indulged in some of the other supplied you mentioned, including a crochet hook. 🤣Thanks again and for the great channel content. Very inspiring.
Hi Michael. What printer ink do you use because i've found the AK interactive varnish always makes mine run and discolours my builds. I've tried a huge range of matt varnishes and paper types now and still no luck so i've come to the conclusion it's my ink.
I use Canon ink in my old Canon inkjet printer. I think it's probably a combination. If I print onto sticky label, for example, the ink runs when I apply varnish. But printing to the inkjet-specific photo paper I use, the ink is almost waterproof - it survives the varnish and also survives getting it accidentally wet. I am thinking of making a video on this subject as I have heard may people say that their ink runs when varnishing. Have you tried enamel varnish? A bit more of a pain to clean brushes etc, but that may work. This video explains more about the materials I use: ruclips.net/video/-QvdNFST7WU/видео.html
Nice video! You may want to take a look at Lance Mindheim's work. He is a master modelers who uses your photo technique with great success. His buildings look real, because they are real.
Also yeah slower videos are fine, your audience is mini builders after all, we enjoy slower detailed content. And if people think it's too slow then they can just watch at 1.25 or 1.5 speed.
Good idea - I will see what I can do!
That must've been fun to bang out after so many mega projects. The raised ribs on the roof was a nice touch.
Yes! It really was!
Lovely little build and great to have an insight on how you go about the basics. I would love a slower build video, it’s fascinating watch you models come together.
Thank you - I will see what I can do!
Lovely use of the real world texture there and the inset brick course. Simple, maybe, but still of the same quality as the rest of Chandwell.
Thank you!
I'd enjoy a detailed step-by-step set of videos as I couldn't quite grasp some of the decisions made when sizing the pieces. Thanks for this as I did learn a few things anyways. I love your attention to detail!
Thank you - I think I will keep this in mind for future.
Simple? Maybe for you Michael but for us older folk with shaky hands, not so much lol. However, joking apart, it amazes me how you always manage to get so much character into everything. What a superb addition to Chandwell. Any videos explaining methods and techniques are always welcome. Cheers, Bob.
Thank you Bob!
I always learn something new when watching your videos Michael, and this one was no exception! Using small clamps to keep building sides aligned within a jig hadn't occurred to me yet was such a simple idea - so thanks for that! And yes, I'd love to see more detailed longer builds! There are so few people showing this type of build video for N gaugers and techniques that work for our larger scale modellers don't always work well for us! All the best, Ian.
Thank you! Really pleased you got something out of this!
As always Michael - your attention to detail is to be applauded. Cheers Euan
Thanks Euan!
That's a lovely ubiquitous building. Thanks for showing us how you made it!
Thank you!
Simple model, but very instructive on techniques. Scoring of the roof was brilliant.
Also great choice in caps. Get ahead, get a hat!
Hahah - thank you!
Amazing attention to detail as always, and every single video gives me a new technique or tool to try out (crochet hooks this time). I particularly love how you went to the trouble of giving the side and back walls full texture and treatment, even though they'll probably never be seen - no compromises in Chandwell. Bravo 👍 I'll add my voice to those who'd enjoy and appreciate step-by-step tutorials - cheers
PS I think the cloudy, milky windows actually look great, like there was once that old-school whitewash applied sometime in the past, which has since all but washed away, or just old glass that hasn't been cleaned for years
Thank you - good advice re the windows. And yeah, maybe I overdid the side textures in this case. I didn't fully appreciate how snug a fit it would be under the arch!
@@Chandwell I don't think you overdid it at all, you future-proofed the building 😉
Nice video, just the right amount of information! The shed is one of those unexpected details that make your layout look so real!
Thank you!
Micheal,
It is always a good thing for we veterans of the craft to restart our tutorial styling for those newbies just entering the craft. It's a starting point for our next generation.
One thought. You had printed out two signs for the building. Instead of having to select one or the other why not add to the far front corner of the structure a door. Then you could attach the Scott sign to the front right corner with an arrow indicating the youngster's entrance is around the corner.
Jim in N.Y.
Thanks Jim. Not sure a door there would work as the shed fits too snugly into the viaduct arch.
Fantastic! I love how you show us your planning and thought process. I would never have thought to take the other sections thickness and paint into account.
Thanks so much! 😊
Thank you :) Another great lesson.
Glad you liked it!
Excellent first effort as a tutorial. Definitely has potential as a side-series.
The scoring on the roof at first look, looked more like individual slices glued on, so well done there.
Thanks for another great video.
Thank you!
Michael Really like seeing you applying the same treatment to the smaller humble buildings, as the grander ones. Also how you take one of your own photo and turn it into a texture, for you’re buildings. For a model, could this be applied to other textures like a cobble roadway that was different to the other textures found online. Think the wood turner is a good call as without windows, a hut would not have been a very good for Scouts, unless it was the store for camping equipment for the Scouts & Guides which belonging to the Methodist Church before they moved out and Revs moved in. The darker blue patch on the front wall suggests a earlier sign rather like a ghost sign. Also like seeing the basic ground work and bridge in front of the viaduct & under the arches as a taste for things to come, simple but effective. Ian
Thanks Ian. I also like the hint of an older sign underneath its tiny current one.
Well that was awesome and very inspirational.
Thanks for sharing
Andy
Glad you enjoyed it
Full of useful and interesting ideas Michael, many thanks for sharing this build, great touch of building the roof covering, take care regards Barry.
Thank you Barry!
Thank you So very Much for this basic introduction to how you use Inkscape and Gimp and other programs (all free) to build you magnificent (and not so magnificent) buildings.
I am ever impressed with your results and YES, I would LOVE to see a detailed how to on ANYTHING that you do as every video is instructional, inspirational, exciting, entertaining and always interesting.
Here in Australia the videos arrive Saturday Mornings and I always look forward to them.
I must admit, I have copied some of your techniques and even some of your videos to rewatch them on a regular basis as they are going to be my guides for paper construction of my layout if and when I ever get free of the many contracts I need to fulfill at the moment. I had hoped to start the layout at Easter this year but the work has grown to force my hand throughout the Winter
Possibly start around October I hope...
Maybe I should retire...Hmmm like that would ever happen
Still - once abain THANK YOU for this excellent video and what a great looking wood turners shed!
Thank you! I will see what I can do!
Brilliant as usual Michael. I am always keen to get more detail, and especially how you use GIMP. You breeze through your videos as though what you do is so easy, and we all know that what you do is far from easy. Whatever you have time to prepare. Its your call Michael. Thanks.
Many thanks Peter! I will see what I can do in a future video.
Love all the details that you added but only you can see.
Thank you!
Hi Michael. Yes please. Would love to see a detailed step by step build tutorial. Maybe it could become side series
Sounds good! I will see what I can do.
Another great lesson.
Glad you liked it!
I’ve just been admiring your modelling in the recent British Railway Modelling. What an excellent model that really captures the atmosphere of the time and location. It must bring you a lot of satisfaction. Enjoy completing the rest of the layout. Regards. Patrick
Thank you! You managed to see the article quite a few days before I did!
@@Chandwell yes I subscribe to the digital version. Otherwise, living in Australia, I have to wait a couple of months.
Great to see, how much attention and work you even pay to such a small(ish) project - even if the finished building has to park in the arch of the bridge.
Btw: classy cap, you wear on your strolls Michael. I have a small collection of similar caps, which I do wear all through the year (some kind of a signiture piece of mine).
All the best
Valentin
Thank you Valentin!
Im really glad youve done this tutorial as i learned a lot of techniques I hadnt thought about using till now
Glad it was helpful!
This is fantastic! I'd love even more detailed vids about this sorta build. Thanks!
Thank you. I will see what I can do.
Nice one Michael. I do something similar but instead of Inkscape I use a Silhouette Portrait cutter. Having designed a building I allow the cutter to do all the work. Keep up the good work because there is so much information that can be utilised in your videos.
Thank you!
Nice touches using the actual building it's based on and the texture on the roof. I have some printed roof materials I've been shying away from using, but now you've given me some ideas. Cheers
Brilliant, go for it!
I'm.currently building a viaduct, and this video has inspired me to do something similar. Great tutorial. Thank you.
Good stuff! Thank you. I find it quite hard to decide what to put under the arches of the viaduct.
A very nice addition to Chandwell's buildings. I'm still unsure if I have the skills to attempt a building but this would be a perfect practice piece. I'm going through the Inkscape videos at the moment and trying to get my swede around that part, I'm building up a collection of cardboard and clear plastic and hopefully will get round to sorting my printer out finally. I still have no layout or plans to have one, so where I'll put anything I build remains a bit of a mystery 😂😂
Go for it! :)
Excellent little project. As others have commented a more detailed lesson in using inkscape and gimp would be useful. I've never used such trickery but having the ability would be a great addition to the arsenal when building models.
Thank you - I will see what I can do in a future video.
Loved this tutorial and more indepth tutorials would be welcome by me at least
Thank you! I will see what I can do!
Fascinating build Michael. Always enjoy watching your videos and get motivated every time. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
Thank you Roy!
Michael, as always, I am impressed with the incredible results you get from very simple - and inexpensive! - materials. I especially liked the way you embossed ribs onto the roofing - it's little details like this that make your work stand out. In this case, however, I think you would have been better served by taking a few liberties with the dimensions of the hut. By placing the hut under the arch, the size of the hut is magnified. As you pointed out, it doesn't even look as though there was room for the builders to apply the exterior siding along the sides of the hut. If you had reduced the width of the hut by four feet, and decreased the peak height proportionately, the hut would have fit into the arch more reasonably.
Normally, you prepare building mockups, and perhaps you did so this time as well; in which case I would assume you made a conscious choice in favor of the very tight fit under the arch. But thinking as an engineer, if I were tasked with building this hut under the arch, I would've either extended the walls all the way to the stone arch, and braced the framing tight up against the stone, or allowed space for the construction crew to work along the sides. Anyway, that's just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions...
Thank you for your considered advice. Much of what you have said has passed my thoughts at some point... My thinking originated with a picture of the old viaduct in Ilkley which had at least one hut under it which looked like it filled the space almost completely. It may have been the angle of the photo, but I was inspired to really "squeeze in" a hut. I supposed at the time that it was prefabricated and then slotted into place in the arch. But yes, this one does fill the space. There's another example in Farsley, but that is brick-built and does, like you say, join onto either side of the arch. Since the clad wooden sides in my case cannot be seen, we can always imagine that the sides have been built of breezeblock or something and not question too much how the thing was built in the first place. Your points are all very valid, but I think for now, I will leave it as-is unless it starts to irk me! :)
@@Chandwell I hope my nitpicky comments don't obscure what I have said many times: you always manage to achieve stunning results from very modest materials. Your modeling approach reminds me of the efforts of model railroaders back in the 1930s and 1940s, when there was no such thing as laser-cut kits, and no ready supply of commercial detail parts.
Not at all - honestly. These kinds of constructive comments really help. Sometimes I’ve already considered it but sometimes not. If you didn’t offer the comments, there would never be that “ah of course!” Moment that happens sometimes. I really appreciate it!
Great video as always Michael.
Thanks again!
Wow! Some great tips there, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I think these videos on the more basic buildings are great, really gives a decent illustration of the principles which I need a reminder/kick with every now and again!
With this and the other small building video I can see you’ve got away from wrap round corners with textures - I had got this into my head as a must learning with ScaleScenes but you’ve shown it’s not needed at all and the edges are much better. I’m glad you’ve shown the textures going on with PVA as again, using the kits, I’d got it into my head to use Pritt Stick. This looks much more user friendly.
I do have an Inkscape question, I find the export to PDF makes huge file sizes! My home printer isn’t very good and I’ve emailed things to a better printer, but the sizes are massive. I’ve had a toy with the settings and looked online but can’t seem to fix it. Thought I’d ask if you knew of a workaround!
Cheers Michael and wishing the best for now, take care : )
Yes, I have started using straight edges rather than wrapped ones, although both techniques come in handy. I think this non-wrapped approach gives a crisper line but it is completely non-forgiving with any amount of mis-measurement.
I use PVA for almost everything. I find it so easy to use.
Yes, export to PDF makes HUGE files as the full-sized textures in each element needs to be included in the file, once per use. So even if you just have a few tiny patches of wall, but each one has the full texture clipped to it, the texture gets included in the PDF once per element. A tip is to arrange them all for printing, then put a big white rectangle behind the whole lot. Then export the rectangle as an 800dpi PNG file. Import the PNG file and then export THAT as the PDF. The file will be much smaller.
@@Chandwell Thanks so much Michael, I really appreciate the reply and the help with the PDF export. I had a very quick look at this before going out to work earlier and will be having another play about with this when I get a chance. Can’t wait to get on Inkscape again to look at this - the biggest PDF I’ve managed to make was 32MB which I was quite stunned by - and there wasn’t that much texture on it. You’ve explained why this happened very well which I’m really grateful for.
Agree with PVA - my little layout is practically built on the stuff! It’s so affordable, easy to buy and so useful. I like seeing it used so much in the videos, proves how good a glue it is. I agree with you on UHU being the devils glue - though it sticks quickly, and sticks well - the stringiness of it really lets things down. I try to avoid it where possible.
You should have a PVA factory in Chandwell! Such a notable employer that some residents say the town was built on it : )
Thanks again Michael and I really appreciate the replies, top man : )
@@Captainpubwatch Thank you! Yes, a PVA factory has crossed my mind for the industrial area in a year or so!
@@Chandwell Thanks for all the replies Michael, Chandwell proving to be the ‘go-to’ place for scratchbuilding. I’ve been back a few times over the last couple of days to look for tips to get around some issues in the new build design. There’s a high chance of the use of electrical tape and lots of layers being factored in 👍🏼
Superb video. With a simple building like this it gives budding builders a possibility of achieving a finished product from which to expand their skills. I love watching your more complicated structures take shape, but a few simpler exercises showcasing a particular technique would be a good filler.
Yes, exactly - thank you. I will see what I can come up with.
Interesting! One thing - I did read the sign as a protruding a/c unit, not a sign, because of its thickness.
It looks a lot thicker on the video than it is in reality. Measuring it with my callipers, it's 0.22mm in place on the front of the shed, so that's a scale 32.5mm. On the real shed, the sign seems to be on two layers of 9mm ply, which would make it 18mm, so yes, I guess I should have used one sheet of paper rather than two! :) But seriously, in place, from a normal viewing angle, it's not a big deal, and if it's read as an extractor fan or similar, then that's fine too. But it's worth remembering for future how thick a piece of paper really is! :)
@@Chandwell True enough! And there's such variation in paper thickness too, of course.
I was always a 4mm modeller, but I must say that I'm feeling inspired by your work to do in 2mm an industrial building that I've always wanted to do but have always been unfeasibly large to model in 4mm, an Oxfordshire cloth mill.
Yeah! Go for it!!
@@Chandwell Thank you, Michael, and congratulations on the BRM article!
Detailed enough in my opinion. Only the gimp hint didn't trigger any clues. I still wonder how the matt varnish does't affect the print colour. I had to redo my concrete yard as it turned to orange.
I may do a video on that question.
good build nice work keep up the good work and vid would be good more vid like this thanks lee
Thanks Lee - I will see what I can do.
Hello Michael I have used the jigs from Scale Model Scenery if it helps I tend to use the waxed packaging from cereal between the jig and items as long as you have a very good fold then the item can be left and does not stick to either.
Genius! Thank you!
Brilliant stuff. These videos would work really well every now and again as tutorials - another string to your channel's bow. It's also really reassuring to see you making mistakes and fixing them.
Great idea - I will see what I can do.
very nice shed
Thank you!
Just amazing work. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Thank you! Cheers!
Very interesting video, and more detailed instructions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Noted! I will see what I can do in a future video.
Great video, I'd be interested in a step by step. But, no pressure if you don't want to.
Thank you! I will see what I can do in a future video!
Hi Michael how do you use Gimp to align a building I'm rather new to this as I have never used it before. do you have a video on this or can point me to a tutorial.
Love what you have done to this a tutorial would be most interesting.
It was loads of fun. I thought the video would be quick too but it took days and wiped out most of my holiday!!
Thanks
Wow! Thank you ever so much - that is incredibly kind of you! This was a very generous gift and worth several times a membership. Thank you. It means a lot to know I've helped and inspired you through my videos.
P.S. I removed your comment as I thought you may not want everyone else to see the link.
Excellent - thankyou
Belated thank you!
Everything really taking shape! What printer you use to keep details at small scale? Like text..
All details are in this video: ruclips.net/video/-QvdNFST7WU/видео.html
Michael, thanks for the video. Do you use the water colour pencils wet or dry?
I wet them as they give a lovely thick paste-like covering which covers the card really well.
The back story behind the shed. Brian "Digger" Purvis having made his fortune prospecting for gold in Australia has returned to his home town of Chandwell with his pockets jingling and jumped in front of the 4th Chandwell Scouts and beaten them to "The Hut" to create his strange wood turnings. At least, that's his story, but there's one young reporter who smells a bit of a rat and does a bit of digging. Will Britney Scoggins uncover the mysterious sailings on the River Chander late at night and just exactly what is being turned in "The Hut"?
Oh that is brilliant, and so "Chandwell". I have filed this away for possible future use - thank you!
Hello Michael. Great channel and you’ve been inspiring in my model buildings for my railway. I have a question on the varnish step. I’ve not had any success with brush applying varnish as it makes the ink run on my prints. I’m using an HP Inkjet printer with HP cartridges on standard paper but whenever I apply varnish (thankfully to test pieces) is simply bleeds all of the print together. I see you’re using AK varnish the same as me but you don’t have this issue. I’m interested in what printer and paper you use for your models. Many thanks and thanks again for a great channel.
Hi David... You're not the first to say that an I am intending to one day do some experiments and make a video. I use Canon rather than HP printer and ink, so I can't rule out the ink itself, BUT, my printer ink on the backscene runs if I even look at it and THINK "wet", so I am almost certain its my paper. I use matt photo paper and the ink is dry as soon as it touches it - it won't smudge when dabbed with wet, and PVA doesn't cause it to run either. Full details are in this video: ruclips.net/video/-QvdNFST7WU/видео.html
@@Chandwell
Thank you Michael. I watched the recommended video (and a bit of a binge watch again on many others of yours) and ordered some new supplies. I'm well underway on my next build and so far, so good. No more running of the ink on the prints. I also indulged in some of the other supplied you mentioned, including a crochet hook. 🤣Thanks again and for the great channel content. Very inspiring.
Hi Michael. What printer ink do you use because i've found the AK interactive varnish always makes mine run and discolours my builds. I've tried a huge range of matt varnishes and paper types now and still no luck so i've come to the conclusion it's my ink.
I use Canon ink in my old Canon inkjet printer. I think it's probably a combination. If I print onto sticky label, for example, the ink runs when I apply varnish. But printing to the inkjet-specific photo paper I use, the ink is almost waterproof - it survives the varnish and also survives getting it accidentally wet. I am thinking of making a video on this subject as I have heard may people say that their ink runs when varnishing. Have you tried enamel varnish? A bit more of a pain to clean brushes etc, but that may work. This video explains more about the materials I use: ruclips.net/video/-QvdNFST7WU/видео.html
Nice video! You may want to take a look at Lance Mindheim's work. He is a master modelers who uses your photo technique with great success. His buildings look real, because they are real.
I'll look him up - thanks.