That's a gorgeous bust, Vince. I saw something interesting in an art supply store this week. It's called Schminke Acryl-Bronze. It's a series of VERY nice looking metallic acrylics, made with aluminium and copper pigments. They've also got a water and oil-version of them. Have you heard of these? I'm considering trying the silver and comparing to Vallejo's Metal Colour.
I have a couple of these, the ones with watercolour binder. They might be worth a shot, but I can say that the ones I have, the particles might be a bit too big for minis. I haven't tried, though (for that reason) but I'd love to see Vince give them a try! Good suggestion!
You look so comfortable with your brush and paint control this is something I’m really struggling with trying to get the paint to go where I want smoothly
Honestly, pet rats are wonderful. They would probably add too much dust and fur to Vincent's workroom, but I could absolutely imagine him enjoying having a large enclosure with a small huddle of those little eardiots shenaniganning in the background as he paints. :)
Hey Vincent, love your cheating tips! Any chance of showing us how to paint soot on the characters? I know it might be too particular but was wondering how to paint it on cannon/artillery crew.
Great video! Not long ago I've painted one of old Skaven minis with similar technique, looks waay worse that what you've accomplished here. I'm still happy, first attempt at this sort of painting! Good tutorial!
Great vid as always 👍 Love how you take the time to make it make sense. I understand why it happens rather than you put highlights there. It's your attention to detail in you're explaining which is so valuable. Especially someone like myself that only started painting models during covid.
Great video as always, love to see your airbrush at work, still getting to grips with the one I bought few months ago. One day I can prime ok next its spiders all over. Maybe it's the mixture of primer and thinner or flow improver with both primer and thinner.
So good!! What I’m curious is how you approach the band of shadow between the glow and the natural light. The “occlusion shadow”. I feel like I never know the best way to tackle that
You basically just always leave it dark, maybe a single layer of base coat or even some of the dark primer basically. But it shouldnt' have any tones really.
That miniature is incredible. You nailed that technique. What about inner glow like plasma effect especially the surrounding light that spills. Is that similar?
Very similar, I have videos in the playlist specifically on plasma glow, so check that out as well. The key is you still need the shadow around the light.
Hi Vince. Great video as usual. I was wondering if you had made some tutorial about a way to paint something like obsidian or other polished stone effects. If not, maybe it’s an idea for some future video ? or maybe it’s a dumb idea, I don’t know :-P Anyway, keep up the good work !
It will eventually be part of a video I make called "5 things to never paint" - Obsidian would be one of them. :) - It's just a really tough thing because glossy black is a difficult thing to capture.
I am just learning to paint and I really want to figure out how to paint light. This seemed like a good place to start, just got my first airbrush and I feel light is a solid place to start. Unless you have other suggestions. Regardless, painting light really is something I would like to do well, but always turns out messy with a brush.
I have other videos in the paintlist and those are worth checking out as well, some use a brush, some use an airbrush, but here is the real key, the thing you need to get your head around first - you're always painting light. Always. Unless you're just putting down one base layer of paint and then stopping, you're painting light and a lighting situation.
A lot of the time I have trouble with the super strong lightsource when the model is generally illuminated as being in strong light as well. For the green light to be this strong the rest of the model would need to be in shadow. Maybe that's just me, though.
It wouldn't have to be necessarily in shadow, but it would have to be in either a weaker light that is more neutral or yellow or it would have to be a very bright counter source. It's a bit of an artistic interpretation to be sure, you always push things as this is art not science, but I get it. It can vary a lot based on the strength of both lights.
A lot of your HC videos, you say you use flow improver while brush painting. Is this a different medium than airbrush flow improver or can either be used?
I recently picked up a Daemon Prince and wanted to try this sort of effect, but I don't have an airbrush for the undercoat. do you have an idea what one could do as a replacement? I thought about maybe trying to sponge on really diluted paint and then focusing in on the more exposed areas to get that underglow, but I would like to get a second opinion on that
I have an orc bust I've been meaning to do something similar with, moonlit from top right, firelit from below left: he's just burnt down a village on a pleasant summer evening. If your two light sources are a bit more similar, just a different temperature, would you still keep the thin black occlusion shadow between them? I realise as I'm typing this, this is probably just a stylistic choice. EDIT: And I've also just realised this is exactly how Uncle Atom lights his studio videos. So I think I'm just going to copy him.
does something like this change depending on the light color? for example, if i have a blue space marine and i want to show him being hit with a yellow light, would it appear more green or would it still be pushed more to yellow?
Yellow light is really just light. It's a warm light, but it would likely just reveal bright warm versions of the true color. Unless we are in the dark and then we have a very orange fire, like a torch or something with really low K, then you could get the figure appearing mostly in oranges/yellows if it's the only light. The top end of this is really complicated science that you can generally ignore, its more about remembering if you're dealing with a bright light source existing int he normal bands of light vs. a truly colored light.
7:19 What was the purpose of the last glaze with skeleton horde? What does it mean to re-tone everything? Maybe a similar video for other skin tones and these tricks would be amazing, I personally have a hard time smoothing transitions in those areas. Thank you for the excellent content you consistently put out, absolutely great!
It's a glaze at the end to smooth the transitions and filter the tones so the white is an undershade instead of the primar tone. I have several videos on glazing and smoothing transitions in the playlist, but there are always more coming.
Literally JUST started a skaven warband. Your timing is perfect as always Vince.
yes-yes
That's a gorgeous bust, Vince.
I saw something interesting in an art supply store this week. It's called Schminke Acryl-Bronze. It's a series of VERY nice looking metallic acrylics, made with aluminium and copper pigments. They've also got a water and oil-version of them. Have you heard of these?
I'm considering trying the silver and comparing to Vallejo's Metal Colour.
I have not, but I will have to check them out.
I have a couple of these, the ones with watercolour binder. They might be worth a shot, but I can say that the ones I have, the particles might be a bit too big for minis.
I haven't tried, though (for that reason) but I'd love to see Vince give them a try! Good suggestion!
You look so comfortable with your brush and paint control this is something I’m really struggling with trying to get the paint to go where I want smoothly
like anything it's practice practice practice.
Paint 50,000 minis and you towill be as good as Vince.
Yes, it's really just practice for Brush Control, just time and models :)
I think I remember this bust. Looks awesome.
Thanks again brother, it was great fun!
Technomancer Vee! 🔥🥰👌🍻👊
Mr V: I know you have doggos, but ever consider pet rats🐁💚? You could be the Boneripper to your own Thanquol!
Honestly, pet rats are wonderful.
They would probably add too much dust and fur to Vincent's workroom, but I could absolutely imagine him enjoying having a large enclosure with a small huddle of those little eardiots shenaniganning in the background as he paints. :)
@@Finkeldinken I'm not *really* suggesting he get rats for the memes. They are smart and emotionally intelligent animals and need love and care. :-)
Excellent demo thanks for sharing! I’m about to paint a Stormfiend or two, i will look back through your vids for a lesson.
Glad it was helpful!
This is the Vince V content that keeps me coming back. I love the way you break these topics down!
Great video vince! I finally got an airbrush after 2 years in the hobby. So I'm stoked to try out something like this with it.
Just got my Ninjon and VV proacryl paint sets :) looking forward to exploring these colours :)
Hope you enjoy it!
Thank you for yet another great hobby cheating video! And who can resist a good ratty!? Not me, that's for sure!
Thanx Vince
My pleasure!
Hey Vincent, love your cheating tips! Any chance of showing us how to paint soot on the characters? I know it might be too particular but was wondering how to paint it on cannon/artillery crew.
Sure, it's really just dabbing black pigment in the areas where the soot would gather, but I will see what I can do.
@@VinceVenturella Hmm, never tried pigments before but that might be a good excuse to do so! Thank you!
Waking up at 4:00am to go to work, only to see another Video by Vince, I may have to call in late!
Such a cool bust and what a great paint job!
Thank you for this one! Going to follow this on my next project. Much appreciated! 👍
This was absolutely perfect timing Vince!! Thanks!! I am doing a D&D figure and I need to do this!!! Thank You! Thank You!! Thank You!!!
Glad to help!
Great video! Not long ago I've painted one of old Skaven minis with similar technique, looks waay worse that what you've accomplished here.
I'm still happy, first attempt at this sort of painting!
Good tutorial!
Such a cool scheme thank you for sharing Vince your the best!
My pleasure!
Great vid as always 👍 Love how you take the time to make it make sense. I understand why it happens rather than you put highlights there. It's your attention to detail in you're explaining which is so valuable. Especially someone like myself that only started painting models during covid.
Thanks 👍
dang man i love those blades, as always excelent stuff man thanks for sharing
Great video as always, love to see your airbrush at work, still getting to grips with the one I bought few months ago. One day I can prime ok next its spiders all over. Maybe it's the mixture of primer and thinner or flow improver with both primer and thinner.
I have printed the model a couple months ago, but couldn’t figure out how I wanted to paint it, I think I use this for practice.
Uncanny! What a great technique!
So good!! What I’m curious is how you approach the band of shadow between the glow and the natural light. The “occlusion shadow”. I feel like I never know the best way to tackle that
You basically just always leave it dark, maybe a single layer of base coat or even some of the dark primer basically. But it shouldnt' have any tones really.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Neat! Although we might define “really easy” differently. ;)
Professional as always.
That miniature is incredible. You nailed that technique. What about inner glow like plasma effect especially the surrounding light that spills. Is that similar?
Very similar, I have videos in the playlist specifically on plasma glow, so check that out as well. The key is you still need the shadow around the light.
What mini is that? I love me some rat boys and I'd love to paint this one myself. Great tutorial :)
3-D print from a friend, I am not sure of the name, but I believe its on My Mini Factory.
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince. I did find it there :)
Dang, you make that look so easy?
Awesome video sir, it really makes me want to acquire an airbrush. Speaking of acquiring things, where can I get that Skaven bust?
It's a 3D print, so I believe My Mini Factory, but it was a gift from a friend.
Is it possible to get a similar effect without the airbrush or is the airbrush really the best option for this technique?
Sure, the airbrush is never required, you could do controlled drybrushing or layering or whatever to get to the same place for sure. :)
Hi Vince. Great video as usual. I was wondering if you had made some tutorial about a way to paint something like obsidian or other polished stone effects. If not, maybe it’s an idea for some future video ? or maybe it’s a dumb idea, I don’t know :-P Anyway, keep up the good work !
It will eventually be part of a video I make called "5 things to never paint" - Obsidian would be one of them. :) - It's just a really tough thing because glossy black is a difficult thing to capture.
@@VinceVenturella ahah, ok, I might reconsider the effect I want to apply then ;-) thanks for the answer
👍👍
IIRC that's by Mammoth Factory?
I am just learning to paint and I really want to figure out how to paint light. This seemed like a good place to start, just got my first airbrush and I feel light is a solid place to start. Unless you have other suggestions. Regardless, painting light really is something I would like to do well, but always turns out messy with a brush.
I have other videos in the paintlist and those are worth checking out as well, some use a brush, some use an airbrush, but here is the real key, the thing you need to get your head around first - you're always painting light. Always. Unless you're just putting down one base layer of paint and then stopping, you're painting light and a lighting situation.
A lot of the time I have trouble with the super strong lightsource when the model is generally illuminated as being in strong light as well. For the green light to be this strong the rest of the model would need to be in shadow. Maybe that's just me, though.
It wouldn't have to be necessarily in shadow, but it would have to be in either a weaker light that is more neutral or yellow or it would have to be a very bright counter source. It's a bit of an artistic interpretation to be sure, you always push things as this is art not science, but I get it. It can vary a lot based on the strength of both lights.
A lot of your HC videos, you say you use flow improver while brush painting. Is this a different medium than airbrush flow improver or can either be used?
Airbrush flow improver, if its just flow improver, is the same thing yes. You can buy it in large columes rather cheaply from art stores.
I recently picked up a Daemon Prince and wanted to try this sort of effect, but I don't have an airbrush for the undercoat. do you have an idea what one could do as a replacement? I thought about maybe trying to sponge on really diluted paint and then focusing in on the more exposed areas to get that underglow, but I would like to get a second opinion on that
A simple soft drybrush in the same round pattern will get you to mostly the same place and leave the deep shadows where they should be.
How did you know I was just about to paint some glowing mushrooms on my loonboss on giant cave squig and wanted a few more videos on this very topic?
I have an orc bust I've been meaning to do something similar with, moonlit from top right, firelit from below left: he's just burnt down a village on a pleasant summer evening.
If your two light sources are a bit more similar, just a different temperature, would you still keep the thin black occlusion shadow between them?
I realise as I'm typing this, this is probably just a stylistic choice.
EDIT: And I've also just realised this is exactly how Uncle Atom lights his studio videos. So I think I'm just going to copy him.
Yes, in general, you still want the occlusion shadow, the light only sells with the presence of shadows. :)
does something like this change depending on the light color? for example, if i have a blue space marine and i want to show him being hit with a yellow light, would it appear more green or would it still be pushed more to yellow?
Yellow light is really just light. It's a warm light, but it would likely just reveal bright warm versions of the true color. Unless we are in the dark and then we have a very orange fire, like a torch or something with really low K, then you could get the figure appearing mostly in oranges/yellows if it's the only light. The top end of this is really complicated science that you can generally ignore, its more about remembering if you're dealing with a bright light source existing int he normal bands of light vs. a truly colored light.
7:19 What was the purpose of the last glaze with skeleton horde? What does it mean to re-tone everything? Maybe a similar video for other skin tones and these tricks would be amazing, I personally have a hard time smoothing transitions in those areas. Thank you for the excellent content you consistently put out, absolutely great!
It's a glaze at the end to smooth the transitions and filter the tones so the white is an undershade instead of the primar tone. I have several videos on glazing and smoothing transitions in the playlist, but there are always more coming.
Thanks for helping me hobby cheat on my wife nightly!
Hi Vince, What bust is this? It looks great.
It was a 3-D print given to me by a buddy, not sure of the source honestly.
The bust is Killmaster Kreng from Mammoth Factory Games. Available on MMF.