A helpful tip: the special tool you had to make wasn’t needed. All you had to do was get a 18 mm 1/2 deep socket and use an angle grinder to make two flat edges so an adjustable wrench can be used to turn the socket. Then use a 1/4 long socket with extension (10 mm I think) to hold the shaft. It worked perfectly. I did the rear shocks today. Thanks!
Thanks for making this video Big Help - Just replaced my 2014 JGC limited rear shocks with the Bilstein 24-225427 Shock Absorbers @ $72.84 each - my JGC has 102K miles - made a big difference in comfort. Took approximately 1 hour using air tools from tire removal to tire reinstall. Definitely get the Harbor Freight Thru socket set using HB coupon cost $17 bucks, made the nut install on the Bilsteins easy, you can just use your air wrench to get the old nut off. I did spend the extra money and purchased 2 sets of Dorman 523-031 Rear Position Shock Mounts @$20 bucks each. So total cost with the socket set was about $200 and now have a socket set for the future. I work on my other cars , replaced axles on my Jeep Wrangler and would rate this a very easy job. Like I said took about an hour. I think the most aggravating part had to be removing the plastic bellows and foam bump stops from the OEM shock mounts but even that wasn't bad, just clean the OEM mounts with hot water and the bellows break away easy then get a flat tip screw driver and pop out the foam bump stop. Now the fronts dont look as simple but may tackle that in a few weeks. Initial impression was the JGC definitely needed new rear shock absorbers, much more comfortable to drive. Again, good tutorial video , Got my LIKE :)
Nice, I'm looking to do my 2014 wk2 limited here soon as well, I will be purchasing new rear shock mounts as well but they come with the plastic bellow already installed so hopefully it's that much easier. Where are the bump stops located? And would you know the part number for new ones or did re-using the old ones work just fine?
@@bh1368 The bump stops are in the upper mounts - really no need to buy new ones, at least I didnt see a reason, they are bump stops and are just a hard polymer/foam - just rinse your old ones with warm water to break away all the dirt and pry out with a screw driver, takes about a minute. After you take off your tire you will literally have the shock out in about 2 minutes - well that is if your using air tools and have everything for the ready. Good luck to ya.
On a quick note: i had to replace my shocks, because they rusted through, and were leaking oil after 5 years and 60k miles. I could have replaced them for half the price with OEM MOPAR parts, but i decided to go with Bilstein, because of the better quality, and i am not in the mood to replace my shocks every 50k miles. Remember, that a good shock plays an important role in vehicle dynamics, and the braking system. It's not worth losing the vehicle over a bad shock. Make sure you don't tighten it too much, because it is relatively easy to shear off that threaded part of the piston.
when you say improved, do you mean smoother and softer going down the road and over bumps? or do you mean better steering response and resistance to body lean in corners?
Josia Evans the old ones were the black OEM mopar shocks, not sure who made them. By improved I mean ride control compered to basically not having shocks. I installed the yellow bilsteins, now I think they are too stiff so maybe consider install OEMs for softer ride.
ideally you should torque the lower shock mount with the wheels on the ground at ride height, this will greatly prolong the life of the bushings in the lower control arm
Please be aware, if your JGC came with load-leveling/Nivomat (as part of tow package) this won't work for you. Bilstein does not make load-leveling shocks.
You can replace nivomat load leveling shocks with regular shocks, you just need to replace the bushing that is different between the two shocks, which you should be replacing with new shocks anyway. BUT, the spring rate of the rear springs is designed to work with the nivomat load leveling shocks, so you should replace the springs as well if you're converting, otherwise ride and handling, and definitely the tow capacity can be affected.
Excellent video very helpful. Can you show exactly in an image the exact locations you used to support the lower arms? and the location for the support of the jeep?
The locations for the support of the whole car are in the user manual, and the lower arms do not need much force to be pushed up, just use a piece of wood between your car jack and the arm, and you should be good to go. See @2:40 the small red jack on the left is holding the arm up.
Its smart to replace the upper bushing on shocks with the shock, the firmness of that bushing is part of the performance of the shock, spend a couple extra bucks and don't re-use the beat up upper bushing, that he took off and put on the brand new shock.
My bushings were in top shape. Felt like new. They had only 50k miles on it, and there was no oil on the bushing. But i see where you are coming from, they are probably not very expensive.
curious if this Jeep has air suspension or not though. i'd love an upgrade to my shocks. OEM rear were replaced at 7k and again at 15k. no joke. and they are failing again, as is the right passenger. i'd like to just get 4 new installed and call it a day. but when i read about getting upgraded shocks, they always warn against getting them for the auto leveling and air suspension aka Quadra Lift models like i have. anyone know?
Is the ride the same or stiffer with these shocks compared to the original? I am thinking of doing this. I have had to replace two schocks over the years already.
I have a 2000 wj with 8 year old Monroe sensa tracks. No leaks and still strong. I wanted to replace due to age with Gabriel Max Control or Blisteins but if it ain't broke??
Read in the description of the video: It is rather difficult to get the old nut off the OEM shock (rust), and then also difficult to tighten the new lock nut on the mount stem of the new shock. The old nut came off by using an impact wrench. I made my own special tool by welding a nut to a 18mm deep socket. This way i was able to turn the socket, and hold the stem of the shock with a 6mm Hex key, but you can buy a socket like that, just Google UPC 700305685642, it is a spark plug socket for GM. Or you get a GO-THRU socket kit with an 18mm socket. Example: Harbor Freight 62327
Im about to buy GC limited 3.6 4x4 in UAE. I have been told that the shocks are really expensive. Is it so. Can change it to normal type??. Is it possible to replace the load leveling type by normal type. Please advise
Nice vid. However....u left out a very important part. Removing the shock mount and bellow from the old shock doesn't happen automagically. U either need a special tool set...or buy new mounts and bellows for the new shocks. At least this is the case with mine.
I am going through the same thing with my 2014 durango. Nivomat load leveling shocks are stupid expensive. I've read WK2 jeep shocks will fit on durangos. Looking at Bilstein 5100s or OME shocks. Im not sure if either of those shocks are built to tow the 7200 lbs the durango is capable of towing though
You can put regular shocks on Tow Package WK2 that came with Nivomat Load Leveling shocks, it will require a different upper shock mount which your should be replacing with new shocks anyway. But I think the springs are weaker designed to work with Nivomat that pump up to provide spring rate.... ...if that is true, you would have less spring rate in the rear, at the very least you can NOT Tow at the higher Tow Capacity the Tow Package is rated for, at worst it might effect ride and handling.... ...but, the price of the nivomat shock, you could replace the spring with a spring for the non-tow package spring and the shock with a bistein for less.....
please elaborate on why you were sick. i don't understand. got sick over the cost to replace at dealer? mine were $900 at both 7k and 17k miles. no joke. and need them yet again.
same. i replaced first at at 7k then again at 15-17k, forget exact. they stupidly said they were installing lifetime shocks which was total BS and they provided no paper work to support that claim either. i hate that Jeep can't sort things like this out. but also glad it's not just me.
I have to kind of agree with Hank below. I am having issues installing the lock nut onto the strut after putting in the shock mount. So my lock nut does not want to go past the tip of the shock rod and therefore the shock mount moves up and down which I am pretty sure is not right. Unless the mounting hardware I received was incorrect. After you installed the lock nut, does your shock mount have any play whatsoever or is it nice and tight???
Finally got it done. Had to hold the shock in a vise, and definitely recommend using a pass thru socket with an allen key to hold the shock screw via the pass thru, however, I had to use a vise grip to hold the allen key while tightening the lock nut with the ratchet. Not an easy thing to do but done now. Thanks for the great video.
Lock Nuts have several threads or the roundness of the bore deformed (note the crimp on the side of them) so they grip the threads (that's why they call them lock nuts). So as you turn them, they resist. With a shock where that shaft can turn, you'll just end up turning the shaft and nut the nut, which isn't good for the shock, that is why you need the pass through socket and an Allen Wrench....
One thought i have on the spark plugs: once i have it open, do i need to replace the ignition coils, and should i also replace the fuel injectors while i am at it?
I guess it won’t hurt if we do all since the most labor intensive part is removing the top mount, but a friend of mine that works at Chrysler told me is not necessary unless your are having a fail. I’m at 95 k miles so I might do all at same time
On another Video of spark plug replacement the guy said coils need to be replaced at 100k, not sure about fuel injectors. It would be good to know when to replace them. I’ll let you know if I find something
i have wk2 2018, i want to change the suspension to blestin in the road it’s hitting hard, i want something better so do you advice me to this suspension?
Well i put those in my WK2 as you can see in the video. I like them, but i don't know your road. Is the road extremely bad? Maybe you need stronger shocks? What do you mean by "to blestin in the road it’s hitting hard", not sure what you mean!?
mygiguser yea i want the suspension but i dont found any website to order it for my 18 model, but video of testing it on road is it Convenient in drilling and bumps
In 2016 (and later) they change the front suspension of the WK2, they moved the sway bar end link mount to a tab welded on to the front shock clevis. Bilstein hasn't offered a front shock with this tab welded to it yet, nor has a lot of aftermarket companies. I think Dobson's offers a strut with this tab welded on it, but its expensive..... ....the rears should still work like before 2016.....
Struts or coil springs over shocks like the WK2 has in the front, that spring must be compressed before removing the upper mount. If you don't do it properly there is a lot of pressure that could cause things to go flying. But the rear is just a regular shock with its upper bushing bolted on it, it's not dangerous to remove it, even if you screw it up.....
My Jeep is moving all over the place every time I hit any kind of bumb on the road it feel loose. A friend of mine said it might be the rear shocks, can anybody help? any suggestions? I don't want to change anything I don't need to.
First thing you can do is to check, if they are leaking oil. That's what was wrong with mine. The next thing, when you break hard, watch the hood, does the vehicle swing up and down a few times? How do your friend know its just the rear shocks? Could be the front ones too.
I had an older Grand Cherokee and when I would hit a bump a certain way the whole front end would wobble like mad. Would have to slow down to a crawl and it would stop. Finally ended up getting rid of it. Then I was going thru RUclips and came upon what is called the “Death Wobble” that is quite prevalent in jeeps. I’m not sure but if I remember correctly they say it’s related to the ball joints
@@michaelnormandin872 Older Jeeps had front live axles, these can shimmy, bad shimmy is what they call "Death Wobble". Independent suspension does not get shimmy and thus can not get "Death Wobble".... The WK2 has independent suspension front and rear and thus does not get death wobble.... ....Jeeps used front live axles decades after other cars shifted to front independent suspensions, because live axles provide much better off-road ability..... ....note the Wrangler is the only consumer vehicle left with a front live axle.... ....you have to completely neglect the maintenance and repair and let it accumulate over years to allow of your suspension to get axle shimmy.... ...but you can be an utter moron that drives around on a worn out and damaged independent suspension and not get shimmy.... ....as the driving public became more and more morons that neglect the maintenance and repair of their vehicles, Jeep had to give up on front live axles.....
The piston has a thread and you hold it with the hex key that it doesn't spin, while you tighten the self locking nut. If you don't hold the piston, you would not be able to screw that nut on there all the way.
@@lescap1209 there are deep well sockets that have a hex head on them for a wrench, if you can find one in the right size that should work... ...the nut has to be tightened in a recessed area, a regular wrench won't work.... ....there are also Open Socket Sets that the socket wrench connects to the outer part of the socket, leaving the center of the socket open in the center for things to pass through...
Amazing that you skipped over the extraction of the upper shock mount or even worse, the attachment of the shock mount to the new shock. The screw to shock head are so tight they require a ton of time to install and the torque required probably stripped the inside hex inset - which you conveniently removed. The installation of the shock is not as straight forward as indicated, as you cut out these two major pieces. The shocks are not engineered well as the mounting bolt does not fit the mounting rod. Very misleading.
Hank Tullis what? If you use the power tool I used to remove the old nut, that’s not a big deal, they come off very easy. The hex insert can easily handle the torque, there was no problems at all. This is an easy job, the front struts are the challenge!
Liked the format.. fastener sizes in the video and no talking.
I think that some swear words in German for the difficult parts would be really funny though.
A helpful tip: the special tool you had to make wasn’t needed. All you had to do was get a 18 mm 1/2 deep socket and use an angle grinder to make two flat edges so an adjustable wrench can be used to turn the socket. Then use a 1/4 long socket with extension (10 mm I think) to hold the shaft.
It worked perfectly. I did the rear shocks today. Thanks!
did your idea and it worked perfectly
Thanks for making this video Big Help - Just replaced my 2014 JGC limited rear shocks with the Bilstein 24-225427 Shock Absorbers @ $72.84 each - my JGC has 102K miles - made a big difference in comfort. Took approximately 1 hour using air tools from tire removal to tire reinstall. Definitely get the Harbor Freight Thru socket set using HB coupon cost $17 bucks, made the nut install on the Bilsteins easy, you can just use your air wrench to get the old nut off. I did spend the extra money and purchased 2 sets of Dorman 523-031 Rear Position Shock Mounts @$20 bucks each. So total cost with the socket set was about $200 and now have a socket set for the future. I work on my other cars , replaced axles on my Jeep Wrangler and would rate this a very easy job. Like I said took about an hour. I think the most aggravating part had to be removing the plastic bellows and foam bump stops from the OEM shock mounts but even that wasn't bad, just clean the OEM mounts with hot water and the bellows break away easy then get a flat tip screw driver and pop out the foam bump stop.
Now the fronts dont look as simple but may tackle that in a few weeks. Initial impression was the JGC definitely needed new rear shock absorbers, much more comfortable to drive.
Again, good tutorial video , Got my LIKE :)
Nice, I'm looking to do my 2014 wk2 limited here soon as well, I will be purchasing new rear shock mounts as well but they come with the plastic bellow already installed so hopefully it's that much easier. Where are the bump stops located? And would you know the part number for new ones or did re-using the old ones work just fine?
@@bh1368 The bump stops are in the upper mounts - really no need to buy new ones, at least I didnt see a reason, they are bump stops and are just a hard polymer/foam - just rinse your old ones with warm water to break away all the dirt and pry out with a screw driver, takes about a minute. After you take off your tire you will literally have the shock out in about 2 minutes - well that is if your using air tools and have everything for the ready. Good luck to ya.
Very helpful with the numbers, thank you!
On a quick note: i had to replace my shocks, because they rusted through, and were leaking oil after 5 years and 60k miles. I could have replaced them for half the price with OEM MOPAR parts, but i decided to go with Bilstein, because of the better quality, and i am not in the mood to replace my shocks every 50k miles. Remember, that a good shock plays an important role in vehicle dynamics, and the braking system. It's not worth losing the vehicle over a bad shock. Make sure you don't tighten it too much, because it is relatively easy to shear off that threaded part of the piston.
I replaced my oem’s with bilstein and ride improved dramatically. Can’t wait to change the fronts. I got mine on amazon.
when you say improved, do you mean smoother and softer going down the road and over bumps? or do you mean better steering response and resistance to body lean in corners?
also, were the old stock ones made by tokico?
Josia Evans the old ones were the black OEM mopar shocks, not sure who made them. By improved I mean ride control compered to basically not having shocks. I installed the yellow bilsteins, now I think they are too stiff so maybe consider install OEMs for softer ride.
This video was awesome. You just saved me a bunch of money. Thank you.
Might get this when my air suspension fails again
I liked the talking in the front video. Good info. Love the graphics.
Good video I thought Darth Vader was doing this vid at first
ideally you should torque the lower shock mount with the wheels on the ground at ride height, this will greatly prolong the life of the bushings in the lower control arm
As you can see @5:50, i had a jack under the arm. The weight of the vehicle was on it. Just the same way as the wheel would do.
That’s the nice thing about eibach shocks. No special tool requires. They have a notch at the top of the shaft so you can prevent it from moving
also vice grips and a rag works wonders
Best video good job
I’m debating on paying to have this done or doing it myself. I never messed with suspension before.
Nice vid.. But I suggest 2u also change the rubber bushing one time to get new life time for that
Fawaz Al Fawaz if they are broken then yes.
Please be aware, if your JGC came with load-leveling/Nivomat (as part of tow package) this won't work for you. Bilstein does not make load-leveling shocks.
You can replace nivomat load leveling shocks with regular shocks, you just need to replace the bushing that is different between the two shocks, which you should be replacing with new shocks anyway. BUT, the spring rate of the rear springs is designed to work with the nivomat load leveling shocks, so you should replace the springs as well if you're converting, otherwise ride and handling, and definitely the tow capacity can be affected.
@@rickanderson8088 so what bushing do I need to change?
Deacon Nyte above states Dorman #523-031.
you can use an 18mm chainsaw socket if you don't want to fab your own parts.
Great job like what you did 👍
Great video, very usefull Thank you
Job well done
Thank you sir
Excellent video very helpful. Can you show exactly in an image the exact locations you used to support the lower arms? and the location for the support of the jeep?
The locations for the support of the whole car are in the user manual, and the lower arms do not need much force to be pushed up, just use a piece of wood between your car jack and the arm, and you should be good to go. See @2:40 the small red jack on the left is holding the arm up.
Its smart to replace the upper bushing on shocks with the shock, the firmness of that bushing is part of the performance of the shock, spend a couple extra bucks and don't re-use the beat up upper bushing, that he took off and put on the brand new shock.
My bushings were in top shape. Felt like new. They had only 50k miles on it, and there was no oil on the bushing. But i see where you are coming from, they are probably not very expensive.
Any play when you put the mount on the shock? I’m getting a little before I put on the bolt.
curious if this Jeep has air suspension or not though. i'd love an upgrade to my shocks. OEM rear were replaced at 7k and again at 15k. no joke. and they are failing again, as is the right passenger. i'd like to just get 4 new installed and call it a day. but when i read about getting upgraded shocks, they always warn against getting them for the auto leveling and air suspension aka Quadra Lift models like i have. anyone know?
The one in the video does not have air suspension.
Are this job making the car higher?or spring needed to replace either to get the car higher?
no
Is this the same procedure for a Grand Cherokee with Quadra air suspension?
What if the bolt breaks off?? How do I get access to install a new bolt? From inside the car by removing the interior panel??
What bolt are you talking about?
Is the ride the same or stiffer with these shocks compared to the original? I am thinking of doing this. I have had to replace two schocks over the years already.
I have a 2000 wj with 8 year old Monroe sensa tracks. No leaks and still strong. I wanted to replace due to age with Gabriel Max Control or Blisteins but if it ain't broke??
if it works, no need to replace! you're right!
Do you have a video on installing bump stops on grand Cherokee?
T Mazyck sorry no, i don’t
::Breathing intensifies::
Corey Slager i know. i need excercise, and a good allergy medicine...
@@mygiguser you're fine. Keep rocking and rolling.
Well done
This rear shocks, work with 4WD , they tell me are different between 2WD ?
That is possible, i had the 4WD version of the car.
This is not a 4X4 with air leveling suspension correct? Bilstein makes great shocks.
Bob Fomenko it’s 4x4, but not air suspension.
mygiguser they not gonna work if u a have TOW package
Do you know if those bilstein shocks fits to a grand cherokke with air suspesion?
no, they don't fit as far as i know, but i may be wrong
@@mygiguser i thought they fit but cannot be installed given Quadra Lift also has load leveling which Bilstein does not accommodate, yet.
Is the old one was load leveling type
When you open the shocjk mount. How do you remove it from old shock
Read in the description of the video: It is rather difficult to get the old nut off the OEM shock (rust), and then also difficult to tighten the new lock nut on the mount stem of the new shock.
The old nut came off by using an impact wrench. I made my own special tool by welding a nut to a 18mm deep socket. This way i was able to turn the socket, and hold the stem of the shock with a 6mm Hex key, but you can buy a socket like that, just Google UPC 700305685642, it is a spark plug socket for GM.
Or you get a GO-THRU socket kit with an 18mm socket. Example: Harbor Freight 62327
@@mygiguser thank you. Btw that code for go thru at harbor freight comes up as a leaf blower now
Or this better than original ones
My 2014 is at 92 thousand miles you think is time to change is kind bump ride ?
Angel Alvarez that is hard to say over the internet. Yours could be ok, but most likely they are not.
Im about to buy GC limited 3.6 4x4 in UAE. I have been told that the shocks are really expensive. Is it so. Can change it to normal type??. Is it possible to replace the load leveling type by normal type. Please advise
When you say load leveling type, do you mean air suspension? I don't know.
Nice vid. However....u left out a very important part. Removing the shock mount and bellow from the old shock doesn't happen automagically. U either need a special tool set...or buy new mounts and bellows for the new shocks. At least this is the case with mine.
Are these the load levelling ones? I paid $1600 for 2 of these and immediately got sick. Never again!
banshee107 lol, no. Less than $200 for both. How do you get sick from shocks, what did you eat? Or did you have too much to drink?
I am going through the same thing with my 2014 durango. Nivomat load leveling shocks are stupid expensive. I've read WK2 jeep shocks will fit on durangos. Looking at Bilstein 5100s or OME shocks. Im not sure if either of those shocks are built to tow the 7200 lbs the durango is capable of towing though
You can put regular shocks on Tow Package WK2 that came with Nivomat Load Leveling shocks, it will require a different upper shock mount which your should be replacing with new shocks anyway. But I think the springs are weaker designed to work with Nivomat that pump up to provide spring rate.... ...if that is true, you would have less spring rate in the rear, at the very least you can NOT Tow at the higher Tow Capacity the Tow Package is rated for, at worst it might effect ride and handling.... ...but, the price of the nivomat shock, you could replace the spring with a spring for the non-tow package spring and the shock with a bistein for less.....
please elaborate on why you were sick. i don't understand. got sick over the cost to replace at dealer? mine were $900 at both 7k and 17k miles. no joke. and need them yet again.
Will it work with JGC 2014 with quadralift?
Yes, same procedure.
Hi!
Please let me know what is the part number of the Blistein rear shocks for 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee
ISMAEL LEBRON i don’t know. Check the Bilstein website.
Front Part Number: 24-225410
Rear Part Number: 24-225427
they fit for regular suspension
i have 2012 grand cherokee laredo ... the rear suspencion have a nock nock nock i think is the shocks
@@mygiguser Bilstein only lists that part number for 2011-2015 and nothing for 2016. Ask me how I know.
How did you get driveaxle off at end of removal?
push the lower arm down with a long pry bar
wait this is the rear shocks, driveaxle can stay on
Posted to wrong video.whoops
Anybody make load helper shocks for this jeep yet? Keep blowing out rear shocks
same. i replaced first at at 7k then again at 15-17k, forget exact. they stupidly said they were installing lifetime shocks which was total BS and they provided no paper work to support that claim either. i hate that Jeep can't sort things like this out. but also glad it's not just me.
I have to kind of agree with Hank below. I am having issues installing the lock nut onto the strut after putting in the shock mount. So my lock nut does not want to go past the tip of the shock rod and therefore the shock mount moves up and down which I am pretty sure is not right. Unless the mounting hardware I received was incorrect. After you installed the lock nut, does your shock mount have any play whatsoever or is it nice and tight???
Michel Clement no play, nice and tight.
Michel Clement watch this ruclips.net/video/LRg3QPXHn-0/видео.html
Yes i have seen that, I do have the pass thru tool as well, ok I will try it again and see, thank you.
Finally got it done. Had to hold the shock in a vise, and definitely recommend using a pass thru socket with an allen key to hold the shock screw via the pass thru, however, I had to use a vise grip to hold the allen key while tightening the lock nut with the ratchet. Not an easy thing to do but done now. Thanks for the great video.
Lock Nuts have several threads or the roundness of the bore deformed (note the crimp on the side of them) so they grip the threads (that's why they call them lock nuts). So as you turn them, they resist. With a shock where that shaft can turn, you'll just end up turning the shaft and nut the nut, which isn't good for the shock, that is why you need the pass through socket and an Allen Wrench....
Hi, any thoughts on filming spark plug service? I heard is a bit tricky.
Yes, i plan on it, but i have only 60k miles on it right now. It may take a few month.
One thought i have on the spark plugs: once i have it open, do i need to replace the ignition coils, and should i also replace the fuel injectors while i am at it?
I guess it won’t hurt if we do all since the most labor intensive part is removing the top mount, but a friend of mine that works at Chrysler told me is not necessary unless your are having a fail. I’m at 95 k miles so I might do all at same time
On another Video of spark plug replacement the guy said coils need to be replaced at 100k, not sure about fuel injectors. It would be good to know when to replace them. I’ll let you know if I find something
Hi
If I don't get the 2:40 washer can I use the old oem washer?
i am not sure that it fits
Good afternoon. Why You not have become to change reliance rear shock absorber and I not see at all a bump ???
Sorry, i don't understand what you mean!?
@@mygiguser При замене амортизатора как правило меняют опору , почему вы это не сделали ?
@mygiguser
When you installed these new shocks did you put a bump stop on the shaft of the shock under the dust cover ?
look @3:23 you use the parts from the old shock, no additional bump stops.
i have wk2 2018, i want to change the suspension to blestin in the road it’s hitting hard, i want something better so do you advice me to this suspension?
Well i put those in my WK2 as you can see in the video. I like them, but i don't know your road. Is the road extremely bad? Maybe you need stronger shocks? What do you mean by "to blestin in the road it’s hitting hard", not sure what you mean!?
mygiguser yea i want the suspension but i dont found any website to order it for my 18 model, but video of testing it on road is it Convenient in drilling and bumps
mygiguser what is the model for the front and rear of blesitn you have got?
In 2016 (and later) they change the front suspension of the WK2, they moved the sway bar end link mount to a tab welded on to the front shock clevis. Bilstein hasn't offered a front shock with this tab welded to it yet, nor has a lot of aftermarket companies. I think Dobson's offers a strut with this tab welded on it, but its expensive..... ....the rears should still work like before 2016.....
Hi will you make a video for the front ones?
Cesar Bojorquez yes, Billstein is on backorder, but they told me that they start production again in the first week of June. I just have to wait!
I just got the front ones. Going to make a video soon!
Looking fwd to see your video. I just ordered my in amazon
How did you remove the upper mounts? Is it dangerous?
Brian Williams no, it’s not. There is not much pressure on there. It is different from the front shocks. Front shocks are dangerous.
@@mygiguser so at 2:35 you just loosen that bolt in the middle to get the mount off and put it on the new one? Thanks
Struts or coil springs over shocks like the WK2 has in the front, that spring must be compressed before removing the upper mount. If you don't do it properly there is a lot of pressure that could cause things to go flying. But the rear is just a regular shock with its upper bushing bolted on it, it's not dangerous to remove it, even if you screw it up.....
My Jeep is moving all over the place every time I hit any kind of bumb on the road it feel loose. A friend of mine
said it might be the rear shocks, can anybody help? any suggestions? I don't want to change anything I don't need to.
First thing you can do is to check, if they are leaking oil. That's what was wrong with mine. The next thing, when you break hard, watch the hood, does the vehicle swing up and down a few times? How do your friend know its just the rear shocks? Could be the front ones too.
I had an older Grand Cherokee and when I would hit a bump a certain way the whole front end would wobble like mad. Would have to slow down to a crawl and it would stop. Finally ended up getting rid of it. Then I was going thru RUclips and came upon what is called the “Death Wobble” that is quite prevalent in jeeps. I’m not sure but if I remember correctly they say it’s related to the ball joints
@@michaelnormandin872 Older Jeeps had front live axles, these can shimmy, bad shimmy is what they call "Death Wobble". Independent suspension does not get shimmy and thus can not get "Death Wobble".... The WK2 has independent suspension front and rear and thus does not get death wobble.... ....Jeeps used front live axles decades after other cars shifted to front independent suspensions, because live axles provide much better off-road ability..... ....note the Wrangler is the only consumer vehicle left with a front live axle.... ....you have to completely neglect the maintenance and repair and let it accumulate over years to allow of your suspension to get axle shimmy.... ...but you can be an utter moron that drives around on a worn out and damaged independent suspension and not get shimmy.... ....as the driving public became more and more morons that neglect the maintenance and repair of their vehicles, Jeep had to give up on front live axles.....
Can anyone explain 3:16 for me? Just turn and leave it in there? What was the point of that? Forgive my stupidity.
The piston has a thread and you hold it with the hex key that it doesn't spin, while you tighten the self locking nut. If you don't hold the piston, you would not be able to screw that nut on there all the way.
@@mygiguser I don't have welding capacity. Do you think a pipe wrench, hex wrench and deep socket will work?
@@lescap1209 there are deep well sockets that have a hex head on them for a wrench, if you can find one in the right size that should work... ...the nut has to be tightened in a recessed area, a regular wrench won't work.... ....there are also Open Socket Sets that the socket wrench connects to the outer part of the socket, leaving the center of the socket open in the center for things to pass through...
Bro just talk next time 😂 all this sign language
Amazing that you skipped over the extraction of the upper shock mount or even worse, the attachment of the shock mount to the new shock. The screw to shock head are so tight they require a ton of time to install and the torque required probably stripped the inside hex inset - which you conveniently removed. The installation of the shock is not as straight forward as indicated, as you cut out these two major pieces. The shocks are not engineered well as the mounting bolt does not fit the mounting rod. Very misleading.
Hank Tullis what? If you use the power tool I used to remove the old nut, that’s not a big deal, they come off very easy. The hex insert can easily handle the torque, there was no problems at all. This is an easy job, the front struts are the challenge!
And by the way, where does the mounting bolt not fit the mounting rod? I didn’t have that problem at all!?
If you have problems with the lock nuts, then watch this video ruclips.net/video/_Lqm1veqgN4/видео.html
mygiguser thanks bro very helpful
mygiguser by the way do you know what the Torque specs are ??
These do NOT work on 16-18 wk2
aaron janes why not? was there a change in 16? this is not for air suspension.
How is jeep only changes the fronts not the rear ?
@@mygiguser do we know which are for Quadra Lift? mine need replaced all around, 3 of 4.
Fron is harder 😭
I just did mine, u dont need a spedial tool😂 🤦♂️
just for the front