Tutorial: 3 Ways to do a dartless FBA in a Knit Pattern
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- I’m demonstrating 3 different ways to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) in a knit garment without adding a dart. Please let me know if you have any questions!
What I’m wearing:
Megan Nielsen Rowan Turtleneck:
megannielsen.c...
M7908 Jumpsuit: simplicity.com...
Pattern:
Deer And Doe Givre Top and Dress: closetcorepatt...
The tape measure I'm using came from here: www.etsy.com/l...
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For reference: I am 5’2” and my measurements are as follows, upper bust 36”, full bust 40”, waist 33”, hip 40”
(Description revised 7/26/24 JMT)
This tutorial has answered many questions for me. You explained it all clearly especially for a newbie. Thanks for posting all the possibilities 💐
Oh good!
I am saving this!
And keeping it for reference every time I do this so I don’t mess it up!
Thank you!!
I'm glad it is helpful!
I've watched a couple of professionals on you tube show an fba adjustment but honestly yours were much more informative and easy to follow! Thank you 😙😙
That warms my heart! Thank you!!!
I just discovered you today on Facebook and am thrilled! I've been sewing for 50 years and never needed an FBA until I went through menopause. I truly appreciate someone who understands and knows what they're talking about. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I look forward to checking out your other videos! :)
I’m so glad this was helpful and that you found me!
I am binge watching your tutorials and absolutely love your easy to understand directions and how quickly you respond to questions. I have tried other instructional videos but left with no answers to questions so some projects are left unfinished. You take the time to explain well and answer promptly. Thank you, you are teaching me so so much. Dee
This makes me so happy! Thank you and I am so glad you’re getting a lot out of the tutorials!!!
Thank you sew much!!! Method number 3 will work brilliantly for me and open up a whole new world of patterns x
Fantastic!
Thank you for showing these methods on enlarging a bust pattern. You made it so simple got it the first time.
I’m so glad!
This is beyond a doubt the best information I have ever seen on this topic! Thank you very much.
Oh, thank you, Mary! I’m so glad you’re finding it useful!
Always amazing to learn from someone who actually knows what they arew doing. Thank you.
I’m so glad you enjoyed it!
I have always been super intimidated by FBA but your tutorial was perfect at explaining it and showing why it's done this way. Thank you so much for helping me conquer this fear.
My pleasure! I’m so glad I could help!
Hi! I just sewed my first T-shirt that FITS - haven't had a T-shirt fit since I was about 16 years old, and I'm now 46! THANK YOU SO MUCH for this tutorial! I'm pretty new to garment sewing, so I used the second option you showed - I didn't want to have to ease in the fabric (also, I was using stripes which would have looked wonky). that I have I'm SO EXCITED about having learnt this new skill from your video. so THANK YOU!! As a fellow busty lady, I'm sure you know how life-changing it is to finally have a tee with no crazy drag lines. Seriously, I almost weeped with joy when I put it on.
Also, I realized after careful measuring that I have about 20% more volume in the front than I do in the back... such a big difference! I sized down one size and did a 4cm fba (about 1.7" in total), but I may have to size down more and do a bigger fba next time - there's still some excess fabric the entire length of the back, and I have extra space in the waist and hips even in the front! Sewing is just absolutely eye opening for me.
I’m so excited for you! Discovering the FBA changed my closet dramatically. I’m so happy you are discovering the beauty that is sewing and properly fitting garments. It really is a game changer!
After having read how to do an fba they suddenly make sense after seeing your demos. Thank you!!
Oh my goodness! This makes me happy. I'm so glad I could help!
Thanks for sharing these three methods to adjust for a full bust. I'll be trying the third method on my next knit top, and let you know how I like the result. I really enjoy your videos and the wide range of projects you demonstrate. Thanks for all your hard work.
I’m so glad you’re enjoying the channel! Thanks for watching!
Whitney, this was great. It was very helpful!😊
❤️❤️❤️
This was a great tutorial. I've watched 4 today because others left me more confused than when I started. lol. Thanks for the help!
Oh good! I love to hear when a tutorial is helpful!
Thanks Whitney….watched it for the second time! Great tutorial!
I'm so glad you enjoyed it!
I’m so happy I found your channel!! I realized we are the same size! This is so helpful. I will refer to it often. Thanks for all you do!
I’m so glad you found me as well!!
Excellent video Whitney. Thank you very much. It was very helpful! Hope you are having a nice summer. So glad for the advances in technology, I live in Athens, Greece. Once again thanks!
That is one of my favorite parts of technology. It really shrinks the world and makes finding information so much easier!
Never seen methods 2 and 3. Love 3!! Cant wait to try this. Thanks so much for taking the time to video and share this!! Really respect your skills.😊
Well, thank you! Just glad I could offer something new!
What great information you've provided ! I'm always trying to sew for my daughter who has fitting challenges in the bust area and this will help tremendously. She loves knits and this will open up the possibilities of patterns I can use. I'm a recent subscriber and absolutely love your channel. Thank you !
Fantastic! Life with dressing big boobs does get much easier when you have some FBA tricks up your sleeve!
I like the 3rd way you presented and am going to try that tonight!! I don't want the extra width in the front under the chest that cutting from the bottom up gives. This FBA method is new to me. Hope it works!!
Glad it was helpful!
That was brilliant, Whitney! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Whitney you’re so awesome! I love your videos very easy for me to pick up thanks👌🏾
Thank you and it’s my pleasure!
Thanks Whitney! A wonderful selection of options and I'll definitely try option 3. Up to now I've used Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide method for a FBA in knits. While it works well for me I abhor all the extra pattern piece tracing it requires. Also thanks also for the explanation in the comments about what you mean by a "large" difference. Lastly I too am keen to learn more about that clever attachment to your measuring tape. I'll look in the description box as you advise
I’m glad you enjoyed the tutorial, Nicole!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and making it nice and clear.
My pleasure!
Thank you very much. Your explanations are very clear and make it seem very easy to do. I shall try them out and see which suits me best.
I’m so glad! Good luck!
This is the absolute best video I have ever looked at on RUclips to explain the FBA on a knit! Thanks so much!!
Do do have a tutorial for the FBA on a woven? I have a 3” difference like you do. Thanks so much!
I’m so glad you found it easy to follow! I don’t currently have any woven FBA videos, but I could definitely do some in the future!
I use the last FB. method all the time and it works for me
Thank you so much for this information!
You are so welcome!
I have a large bust (6” between high and full bust) and have to add an FBA to patterns that already include an FBA. There are many times that I don’t want a dart when I’m sewing knits but I was also not happy with the armscye distortion that happened when I used your second method even though it’s brilliant every other way. I decided to try that method with an FBA-Y adjustment. When the bust dart is closed it opens the Y part of the adjustment and overlaps part of the amscye dart. Not only does this take care of the armscye distortion from this adjustment it also helps with the distortion from the original pattern FBA. There is a bit of wiggle room to play with how much of the dart room you want at the armscye dart area and the Y dart. I have now used this adjustment in about four different knit top patterns with great results. I couldn’t find anything on line about doing it this way so thought I’d share here in case it helps someone else.
Thank you for adding this! I loving learning new ways to do fit adjustments (and sewing techniques). This is very helpful!
Excellent! Thank you.
I’m so glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic, I was just mulling over the best way to do FBA on some tops I was planning to sew this weekend. Now I know! Very many thanks. 👍
I want to know what your IQ is, how can you be so smart? Such a relief to finally have some solutions for a big bust. It seems like the world is small bust/big hips, and I’m the opposite. Thank you so much.
😂 I’m so glad this was helpful. I’m lucky to have had some FABULOUS teachers so I am more than happy to pass the information along!
Hi again! I changed my mind and used FBA 3 on a discarded T-shirt to test the method - delighted with the result! I was able to size down the pattern before doing the FBA 3. Almost perfect - next time I shall add 1 1/4" and it will be! 😁
That’s fantastic! I’m so glad!
Thank you so much! I am familiar with a couple of these methods, but I'm excited to try the other ones out.
Great tutorial! You explained this so well - it gives me hope I can actually fit things better,
Fantastic! I’m so glad you enjoyed the video!
I'm going to have to try that last one! That was a new one for me.
I've never used your last one but it certainly looks much easier than putting in a dart! I always add a dart to my knit tops but I think I could in most cases get away with doing that one you demonstrate at the end. Great visuals and audio on your video Whitney!
Thank you, Kathleen!
Thank you so much for sharing. I am LOVING all the awesome content on your channel lately
Well, thank you, Jacky! It’s nice to get some feedback!
On the last one, (adding 1inch under the arm seam) would you add length to the back hem? All these were very helpful.
I'm so glad you enjoyed these! If you are adding the 1" to the front, you don't add to the back. You just stretch the back to fit the front. This way you have the length your bust needs in the front, but that you don't need in the back.
Great tutorial, many thanks 🙏
My pleasure!
Excellent video - thank you!!
This is so bizarre. I was just about to look up how to do this! Thank you 😊
😂 perfect timing!
I learn so much from you - I wish you lived next door to me!!
😂. Thanks, Shelley!
Thank you! Best explanations yet!
I’m so glad!
Thank you so much.
❤️❤️❤️
Hello. What a great tutorial you gave. It was very easy to understand. My question to you is what if you’re very small busted? I’ve always been very large busted until I had to have surgery,. They had to take more than they thought, I thought I’d be waking up to a full C cup and barely make a B cup.Thank you so much for sharing all of you knowledge !
It is the same alteration except instead of sliding the pattern apart, you squish it together and overlap your cut lines!
Wonderful knowledge, thank you
Which adjustment method did you use for the white top that you are wearing on your RUclips photo?
The dartless FBA.
I am just starting to watch your channel, where did you get the holder for your tape measurer?
The tape measure came with the adjustable slider. I got mine here: www.etsy.com/listing/505888083/easy-check-tape-measure?ref=shop_home_active_10
Thank you! So helpful!!!
Thank you very much. This was a very informative video. I am still a little confused if I need to make a FBA. I took my measurement according to your instructions and these are my: B 37 1/2, W 33, H 38, High Bust 35. I like my cloths to be well fitted but not tight. I purchased the Givre and plan to make the view without the sleeves, without the yoke. I thought I should cut the size 46. What are your thoughts of the size I should cut and do I need a FBA?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I would say you are right on the verge of needing one so it would be up to you. I would definitely go off the finished garment measurements to determine your size, but you are on the right track!
Hi, can I ask where did you purchase that little gadget you used on your tape measure?
It actually part of the tape measure. I got it here: www.amazon.com/Clip-and-Slide-Measuring-Tape/dp/B089FRS7X9/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3KO6W3EF8UYES&keywords=crafty+gemini+tape+measure&qid=1667477054&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjYzIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=crafty+gemini+tape+measure%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-4
What is that clear thingamagig you have on your tape measure? I need one!
Thanks in advance !
Isn’t that cool? It’s part of the tape measure and it allows you to snap it closed so you can get a good measurement reading on yourself. I have a link to it in the description box of the video if you’re interested!
Thanks! I need to do this for the first time ever on my Freya sweater. Also, congrats - you had a commercial attached today!
😂. Thanks, Meg!
Another great video. Thank you very much!
My pleasure!
This was a great video. Very easy to understand. THANK YOU
Thank you. Great FBA tutorial.
I love this ! You’ve made this look really do able, that I can Evan follow along ❤️❤️👍
I’m so glad! This makes me very happy!
Hello, I am watching your tutorials on fba because I am petite 4 ft 11 with a large bust and have never done a fba on any of my makes. I recently discovered style arc patterns and am hooked, currently have the Archie woven shirt pattern but not sure how to do a fba on this body style top, do you have any advice on this. ? I think I am possibly a similar size to you, at 8stone 2 lbs, small frame but DD cup bust.
I don’t currently have an FBA tutorial for a dolman sleeve, but I can definitely add that to my summer tutorial series! Stay tuned!
Thank you for your reply Whitney, you are an inspiration to all .
Fabulous.
I’m so glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you, Whittney! My size 7 Freya sweater fits perfectly except across the bust - size 8 is too big everywhere. Now I shall try a FBA 1 on the size 7! 😊
Fantastic!
What is that super tape measure called it is so handy when measuring your self
It's the Easy Check measuring tape. I found one here: stores.islandersewing.com/a-easy-check-measuring-tape/
👌 perfectly described and clear 👍😁💝😘
Thanks, Sally!
What do I do if my upper bust to apex difference is 6 inches, meaning I had to spread the pattern 3 whole inches? The waist won't be fitted anymore and adjusting the side seam at that point will just result in having to remove some of what I just added to the bust to smooth/even it out toward the waist?
Edit: The second method might work for me, I'll have to try it
Give the second one a try and let me know!
I have a question. After I do my FBA, I still have armhole gaping. I then did a armhole gap adjustment...and I STILL have armhole gaping. There must be something else that's going on and I can't determine what that is. FYI, there is no armhole notch so I eyeball it. Is it the armhole being too big or too small or???
Where is it gaping? Is it gaping at the front by the underarm? Is there excess fabric pointing at the apex of the bust?
These are all great techniques! I understand them all except for two very silly things. When you say that you 'stretch the notches, front and back' to ease in the material, do you mean you are stretching the material up and down and forming a dart shape OR stretching the notches at the seam line up and down as the notches won't line up automatically? A visual of this would really help me, but, if you can throw out a quick response that would be great, too. The other question was in the last technique: the hem line. Did you mean that you start at the fold side of the hem line and draw up to the seam line to reconnect the hem OR are we drawing a line from the front straight across the paper to wear the seam would be? I have never done a bust adjustment, but I know I need to. My biggest issue with starting is that the apex is never even close to where mine should be. After watching your video, I am going to give all of these techniques a try. Thanks again Whitney. I love all your videos.
Yes. You are literally stretching the back fabric so that the notches once again align. Also yes to the second question. You are redrawing the hem from the fold line back to the side seam that is one again in its originally spot. Does that help? I’m so glad you’re trying a bust adjustment. Once you get it down they become second nature. Let me know if you have any more questions!
@@TomKatStitchery Thank you sew much Whitney!
Love this video and about to try technique #3. I had the same questions that Laurie did, thanks for the great response!!
Was the bubble only done on the front? Thank you so much for this video.
Yep!
Thank you so much, now I know how to measure my bust.👏🏻👍🏼🕊
Three very different ways to do an fba on a knit pattern. I learned to do the method where you trace around the pattern and use pivot points at the shoulder and underarm to shift the pattern to the right measurement. Not cutting of patterns required. I would have also shifted the dart up by taking it out of the length at the side seam but then that's just me.
I can totally see that working as well! I love that there are so many ways to do different sewing and fitting techniques!
@@TomKatStitchery Yes it gives you options.
Great video. I love all of your instructional videos. If you don’t mind my asking, how did you find out about your food allergies and what they are.
Thank you, Susan! I don’t mind you asking about my allergies at all! I was having some severe swelling (edema) and my liver and kidney numbers were dangerously out of whack so after extensive blood work, they determined I have a gluten, dairy, corn and egg allergy. Since cutting it all out of my diet my numbers have all returned to normal levels. Unfortunately, it leaves me with eating a lot of meat, veggies, fruit and rice and not much else. While that sounds horrible, the difference in how I feel WAY out weighs what I had to give up!
When you do the pivot methods, it appears the shape of the arm hole opening has been changed. How do these pivot methods affect the sleeve fit?
It only changes the cut line. Since you are pivoting at the seamline , it doesn’t grow or shrink, but stays the same. This means that the sleeve fits in the same!
Yaas the last one works best for me, thank you very much!
Awesome info Thanks
My pleasure!
Sorry, I just emailed you bc I couldn’t find the comment section right away here on RUclips. What is the clip on your measuring tape? Looks genius!
I just emailed you back and added the info to the description box!
Where did you find the tape measure with the clear ?? On it sorry 😐 don’t know name of it.
I got it from this Etsy shop. It’s a great tape measure for taking your own measurements! www.etsy.com/listing/505888083/easy-check-tape-measure?ref=shop_home_active_15
Thank you, that is so much clearer now, I actually understand it x
Great tutorial. Thank you. 👍
Thanks you so much, excellent video. Cannt wait to try it😻
Thank you so much. Do you also have a way to drop or enlarge the armeye?
I do! I can definitely show that sometime!
Thank you for this tutorial. You have encouraged me to try my first FBA & I'll be trying the third version. I have a question, if you've added an inch of length to the front do I need to add an inch of length to the back or does the easing compensate? I want to make sure I fully understand before I cut my fabric. Thanks again!
If you add an inch of length to the front, you don't have to add it to the back in knits. You can just stretch the back to fit the front, or ease in the front to fit the back. I actually just used that trick today! It gives you length to go over the bust that you need, while the knit takes care of the circumference!
How do you jump on the bigger size for waist measurements like your mine does a big jump from bust to waist.
Do you trace the pattern first of the bust you want going up to the wasit and then do the fba or trace one size of the bodice and do fba but then that doesn’t make sense how to go up on waist. I am confusing myself very badly 😬
So you need a larger size for the waist than the size for the bust? Keep in mind that doing the FBA (other than the one that just adds length) is going to add that amount to the waist as well. I would do the size to fit your upper bust (the measurement under your arms) and then grade to the size you need for the waist at the waist (keeping in mind that the addition of the width for the FBA will also increase the waist by this amount). After grading, I would then do the FBA of your choosing. Does that help?
@@TomKatStitchery that is so helpful honestly. I have never done these fba, and i found all the indie patterns I use are B cup and i am a D cup, shocking🫠
Thanks so much for this. You have helped me a TON.
Thank you!!!!
My pleasure!
On the last fba do you add the inch in that you did to the front? Or are you just stretching between the darts to match the front? Thank you
You stretch the back to fit the front.
Hi . Just started watching your videos.. Love them. I am wondering where you get the paper you are making your patterns on and where did you get the tape measure you used to get your high bust and full bust measurements....Thank you.
Hi, I wanted to get your opinion on weather to do an Fba? I am making a knit top (Audrey) from sew over it. My high bust is a 39 and full bust is a 43. The rest of my measurements match more to a size 18 but my high bust is more at a size 14. My waist and hip match more with the size 18. Which would you suggest? Thanks for your input! Krista
I’m doing a cheater fit technique in my video on Tuesday where you would grade from a 14 at the neck and armhole to an 18 at the side seam. That might work for you without an FBA. I explain the adjustment in detail on Tuesday!
Thank you. I’m lazy and just grade out but know I should add length. I think I’ll try the last one on my next Freya. And yes to the new framing.
I need that tape measure!!
I just added it to the description box, but it's here: www.etsy.com/listing/505888083/easy-check-tape-measure?ref=shop_home_active_10
Hiya, thanks for another great video. I have a question about your starting point, normally when i do a full bust adjustment. I also use my top bust measurement, but that measurement i assume to be cup 0 - meaning no cup. Since it is the measurement where there is no boobage, so in theory front and back should be equal-ish. So when picking my starting size in a pattern drafted for a b cup, I would use my top bust measurement+2 inches to find my right starting size. And the make my full bust adjustment from there. Do you get my meaning here? Am i misunderstanding something or do you have some knowledge about this that I am missing?
Love your channel and videos btw, so happy you are feeling better with your health issues.
Cheers!
Jannie
Hi, Jannie! While yes, that it correct, in traditional slopers the bust adjustment is actually the measurement above the bustline (like a bust statue). In the big 4 patterns, this is what they have traditionally used. Independent pattern companies might use different cup sizes for their basic block, which will skew this number. I have found that by picking my size based on the upper bust measurement (and also looking at the finished measurements) and then doing an FBA for the difference has yielded the best results across all pattern companies. Does that help?
@@TomKatStitchery alrighty, thanks for the quick reply! :)
Yes everything makes sense. You began by referencing your upper bust measurement to purchase pattern size. Then you added 1/2 the additional inches needed to bring pattern to include the inches you need for your own upper chest measurement. Therefore you are starting before adjusting for the fullness of your chest with a pattern that fits your shoulders and then adding to fit your bust. So I can assume 2” is already built into pattern for B cup and I am adjusting for the additional cup sizes by adding the difference between my upper bust measurement and the envelop’s upper bust measurement for the size I chose as the base. I use my upper bust measurement NOT the finished bust size because finished bust sizes are ease allowance design numbers.
You've got it!
Whitney, please excuse the dumb question, but how did you come up with the 7/8 adjustment. Is is the difference between the standard 2 inch and the additional inch you need?
Hope you don’t mind me answering, but Whitney said she needed about 1.75 inches added total in the FBA so that 7/8 is half of that for each side.
RE. OVERHEAD CAMERA ANGLE:
Have you considered an overhead mirror (like cooking shows)? a cheaper one would be lightweight enough to hang easier.
That’s a good idea! I now have an overhead tripod which helps the angle now, but I love the mirror idea!
Awesome tutorial! Now I'm a pear shape and my bust is usually swimming when I try to accommodate my bodacious hips, is it better to buy a pattern that fits the bust when they are smaller or the hips if they are larger and make the changes for the other body part?
For tops, I usually recommend picking a size based on the bust, however, if there is a large difference, grading between sizes might be the best option. You could also do the reverse of the FBA for a SBA to help remove some of the excess fabric in that area!
@@TomKatStitchery, thanks so much Whitney! Right now on my journey I have to go from an 16/18 at the bust to a 20/22 at the waist and then hips 24/26 (if there is no stretch) in store made clothing I can wear a 20 bottom but it either has to have lots of ease or ease built in with stretch. I love how easy you explain things so we have options along with the reason why you do it like you do! Keep those videos coming! Hubs is helping me create a dressmaker's dummy this week!!! I can't wait to be able to size garments on myself instead of having a stash of 'never going to happen' garments!
Cecile Hoare that’s amazing! Good luck with the mannequin. I’m so glad you’re finding the tutorials helpful!
Hi Whitney, how do I know which adjustment would be the best one to use. Does it make a difference. Thanks for the tutorial.
Not really. If you have a large difference between upper bust and full bust (more 6+ inches) I would recommend the second one (where we close the dart and swing the pattern back). Otherwise, any of these will work!
To find the length to add vertically using the third method, I would probably tie an elastic/string right under my arms and one right at the small of my waist, and then measure the length between those two - first in the front over my bust and then at the side from armpit to waist. Then the difference is the amount I'll add to my pattern. If the difference is too big, I'll check the vertical stretch of my knit fabric by stretching it to the length I need to add, marking it, and then measuring between those marks when it's unstretched - and then that's my new amount to add to my vertical FBA
I haven't tested this yet, but I thought someone else might find the idea useful, or even advice me on a better idea.
This sounds like a good way to determine what you might need. I know that fitting a large bust can be such a pain! I have also found that using patterns that already include a full bust adjustment can be so helpful, even if additional room is required, starting with a pattern that already includes some is really helpful!
would the method above be the same if you were needing to do an fba on a bodice with a curve above the apex that connects to a yolk for the neckline. i.e. ellie and mac be creative hoodie or gina renee designs tshirt dress. I hope I have explained it correctly?
Yes. The yoke is above the area where you need the room, so it’s basically out of play when you do the FBA.
hey whitney, i'm confused because at 8:15 you said your high bust is ~36.5 so between size 40 and 42 but aren't those measurements on the chart for full bust? You decided on making the 42 because you don't want the pattern to be too small, but then you said your bust is 39.5 so why didn't you make the size 44 with the bust being 39.5? Is it because you didn't want it too loose?
also do you have a preference for the order of doing fba, shortening for height, grading for larger waist/hip? Not sure which to tackle first on the pattern.
Because I had a 3 difference between upper bust and full bust (it's now closer to 4.5), I know that I need to do a full bust adjustment. If I make the size that fits my full bust, it will be too big in the neck and shoulders. This is a pretty old video, but I still do my dartless FBAs this way. If you have larger than a 2" difference between upper bust and full bust you should do a Full bust adjustment. Since most pattern companies draft for a B cup (2" difference between upper and full), you will want to pick the size that corresponds to 2" larger than your upper bust and then do an FBA to get to your actual full bust measurement. Hopefully that helps! As far as alteration order, I start at the top of the body and work my way down doing all the horizontal adjustments (lengthening and shortening) and then I do the vertical adjustments (adjusting for width like the FBA). I hope this helps!
@@TomKatStitchery oh I see. I guess I assumed if the pattern was drafted for b cup (2” diff), then the bust shown on that chart already took that into account. So I thought the size with 39.5 bust would have a 37.5 upper bust. Is this the wrong way to think about it? Instead I should use the bust measurements on the chart as high bust measurements and gauge from there?
I’m trying to do an fba for swimsuit and realized the fba lengthened and widened the pattern piece. However the instructions say I need to lengthen it as well but I noticed with the fba it lengthened and widened the piece longer than it would have been with just the lengthening widening alone. But I’m guessing the width and length aren’t actually width and length because it’s just to accommodate for the extra boobage right? So I still do need to lengthen the torso and widen/grade to larger waist if needed? All of this is so confusing, thanks for the responses
@@TomKatStitchery the other thing I noticed with this darn swimsuit pattern is with the fba it made the side seam of front top longer than the back piece so not sure if it’s ok to ease the extra seamage and make it fit with swimsuit material (vs knit like you stated in video)
@@Fattiapples For independent pattern companies, you are correct. A size with a 39.5" bust would have a 37.5" upper bust. The exception to this is the commercial patterns (Vogue, McCalls, etc.), for these I pick the size where my upper bust matches the bust number and then do the necessary FBA.
As far as the FBA, you are correct than an FBA will lengthen and widen the pattern piece. You are right on that it's to accommodate the extra boobage. You may need to add additional length/width to your pattern piece, but do the FBA first and then what additional you need to add for length and width!
@@Fattiapples You can totally do that if the added length in the front isn't a ton. I've done this on multiple occasions when sewing with knits! Can I ask what swimsuit pattern you're using? It might be worth it to find a swimsuit pattern that comes with cup sizes/FBA already done for you.
I am a little confused about how all the adjustments, except for adding a dart, would work. You still end up with a flat pattern without any 3D dimension to accomodate the full bust. What makes the flat pattern fit around the fullness of the bust? A bust dart actually pulls the fabric into a round shape. Thanks.
With the dartless FBA, you are just adding some more width where you need it. The nature of the knit fabric will add the fullness where you need it without having to add a dart - in most cases.
Thank you for the video. I have a Q. How do you do with the extra at the hip side.
If you don’t want or need the extra at the tip, you can always shave it off the side seam.