HOW TO MAKE PLASTERBOARD AND DRYLINING EASIER - 10 DIY TIPS & TRICKS

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  • Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
  • It's back to basics but even jobs like plasterboard still have little tips that can be a big help. Let us know any we missed.
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Комментарии • 86

  • @TheRestorationCouple
    @TheRestorationCouple  Год назад +9

    Worth mentioning that we are using panelling on the ceilings otherwise. we would have boarded that first. 👍

  • @ianmcbain898
    @ianmcbain898 Год назад +2

    Getting yourself a fluffy dog to help with the dust. That cracked me up 🤣🤣🤣👍👍

  • @T8RTU
    @T8RTU Год назад +1

    Timing could not be better! Just about to start my own, cheers 👍👍

  • @DjGiluk
    @DjGiluk Месяц назад

    Really helpful video, thanks

  • @alexbrooks6435
    @alexbrooks6435 Год назад +4

    I don't know if it's just the screwfix screws I get but I always get metal splinters from plasterboard screws. pretty much the only job I wear gloves for just to avoid them.

  • @alexcharles321
    @alexcharles321 10 месяцев назад

    Calcium sure, but sulphate is what it's used for as a fertiliser. Quite the colourful history fought over gypsum, an interesting read if you want! Thanks for the tips all the same 👍🏼

  • @statementleaver8095
    @statementleaver8095 Год назад +9

    As a Dryliner
    My only problem is Damp on Site
    I WALK OFF SITE IF THE BOARDS ARE WET/DAMP
    I Don't use Single Screws. I use Screw Strips= Less Hand work.
    Although 90% is Double Ply for Soundproofing.
    Nice to see a Regular person attempting Studded Walls👍
    EDIT
    Only 1 thing.....Rough edge too the Floor.
    Rough edge is now hidden by Skirting rail👍

  • @davidfinn3771
    @davidfinn3771 Год назад

    When you're boarding the ceiling use a scaffold, couple of stools and a Planck is quick and easy

  • @dennisreid3866
    @dennisreid3866 Год назад +1

    Carpet fitter friend of mine always had a wet stone/sharpening stone in his pocket to save on blades. It'll surprise you long they can last with just a quick lick over

    • @TheRestorationCouple
      @TheRestorationCouple  Год назад

      Our. carpet fitter used to do exactly the same and must have saved ££'s each year,

    • @robertwilson6020
      @robertwilson6020 Год назад

      @@TheRestorationCouple I wa about to offer that tip!!

  • @neilevans7569
    @neilevans7569 Год назад

    Great video with loads of helpful tips! what glue do you use on the plasterboard?

  • @dmarriott9701
    @dmarriott9701 Год назад +2

    Once converted a large bedroom into a bathroom dividing the room into a large shower room with an equally large walk in airing cupboard and bathroom. After erecting stud walls to produce the required rooms which gave us perfectly flat walls on which to tile the client decided he would insulate the wall between airing cupboard and shower and pumped expanding foam into the gaps between studs. By the time we arrived the following day to commence tiling the foam had expanded in lumps which bowed the plasterboard and caused so much damage the boards had to be removed, foam cleaned out and wall re-boarded. Not a good idea for expanding foam.

    • @TheRestorationCouple
      @TheRestorationCouple  Год назад

      Yeah, definitely don't use expanding foam, it will pop the screws within minutes/hours. If using an adhesive I would only use a gun grade PU or polymer adhesive of some sort.

  • @martynbuzzing3327
    @martynbuzzing3327 Год назад +1

    Very helpful 👌 Thanks

  • @oskarsmillers
    @oskarsmillers Год назад

    Knauf screws Tn25 camed with PH bit in box. But not like this drywall bit. Lifespan +-1000screws from 1 bit🤷‍♂️

  • @peterwooldridge7285
    @peterwooldridge7285 Год назад

    Don't attach boards to noggins!!!

    • @charlieshwan5574
      @charlieshwan5574 Год назад

      Why?

    • @peterwooldridge7285
      @peterwooldridge7285 Год назад +2

      @@charlieshwan5574 differential expansion and contraction of the studs and noggins may lead to cracking of joins and popping of fixing heads

  • @zlock97
    @zlock97 Год назад +25

    As a plasterer... the sharper the blade, the more itll go off course, also u dnt need to cut a 3rd of way? Judt score the paper and itll give u a cleaner cut aswell

    • @welshherow2603
      @welshherow2603 Год назад

      Agree, blunt blades are fine, if it stats to drag just lower the angle of the knife.

    • @marks-0-0
      @marks-0-0 Год назад +1

      Also i find that a light score underneath after snapping the board allows the cut section to break off cleaner leaving a flatter raw edge.

    • @IllIllllllll
      @IllIllllllll 6 месяцев назад

      @@welshherow2603it’s when it starts taking the paper with it it needs a change. I hate a fresh blade

  • @jdm0101
    @jdm0101 Год назад +8

    Was screaming DWANGS there! Glad you had it hahahahaha!

  • @jason_coops
    @jason_coops Год назад +10

    Fantastic set of tips! Impeccable timing as I'm just about to start a stud wall and drywalling project. I'll be buying those drywall bits momentarily. A tips video on taping and jointing wouldn't go a miss 😜

  • @chrishamilton-wearing3232
    @chrishamilton-wearing3232 Год назад +4

    I bought a brand new drywall lifter a few years ago off Ebay for about £100. I used it to lift a dozen boards and then I sold it again on Ebay. I thought that even if I only got half of what I bought it for then it would still be cheaper than hiring one. The winning bid was just over £125 ! I thought it was crazy, someone bidding for a second hand item for more than they could buy a brand new one. BUT.... it got even crazier. The guy who bought it lived in the same town where i had got it from in the first place, and then driven his Range rover from Essex to Staffordshire and back, a round trip of over 250 miles!!!!

  • @alexpnext3953
    @alexpnext3953 6 месяцев назад +2

    johny sins as a dryliner

  • @mr_bojingles5891
    @mr_bojingles5891 Год назад +3

    Tip number 11. Make sure you score along the right side of the spirit level. I'm sure I haven't had my last time of putting a nice score line following the indentation of the bubble 😡

  • @steenfraosterbro3268
    @steenfraosterbro3268 Год назад +2

    raising the plasterboards (or any boards) off of the floors is more than anything to avoid the stepsound transferring into the walls.

  • @i.m.peterrific
    @i.m.peterrific Год назад +3

    Just after I finished the last of the plaster work in my current house, I was at Bunnings (hardware store here) and saw a collated screw gun on the run-out items table. I said to wifey, "that would have been handy doing the ceiling". Next thing you know I'm walking out of the store before she could change her mind when she said you should get it.... no backsie's, I'm outta here 🤣

  • @fredsmith6725
    @fredsmith6725 Год назад +14

    I always do the ceiling first. That way the plasterboard on the walls holds the edges of the ceiling boards in place. If you don't they can sag, especially the 9mm stuff, and that looks unsightly and more prone to cracks along the corner.

    • @TheRestorationCouple
      @TheRestorationCouple  Год назад +1

      Yep, ceilings first. Just not in this case as there is no PB going on ceilings.

  • @richashworth7087
    @richashworth7087 Год назад +4

    Great video Tim. My tip is to put your plaster board stack on some trestles so you don’t have to work on your hands and knees. And get a big 1.2m square

    • @roberthart4224
      @roberthart4224 5 месяцев назад

      he already knows this. He said he PREFERS putting on the ground... it's actually quicker to cut it this way.
      but yes, it is more back work.

  • @EastLondonKiwi
    @EastLondonKiwi Год назад +3

    Tim. When gluing plaster board and using less fixings. You should consider using temporary fixing blocks in areas you ultimately do not want screws. Plaster board is flexible and can bow when you fix around the edges, that causes hollow spots in the centre. Temporary fixings stop that happening. Use off cuts of plasterboard in squares as large washers to spread the load and screw through those to you wall. Once the glues is dry remove the temporary fixings (yes there are small holes to patch but it's better than a loose and holow wall. I hope that helps D

  • @johnskyrme2201
    @johnskyrme2201 6 месяцев назад +1

    You do not put board on the bottom of stud first.First board goes uptight to ceiling. This gives you

  • @jdickson242
    @jdickson242 Год назад +2

    No insulation in the internals? You will be able to have comversations between rooms pretty well in this place

  • @kip8790
    @kip8790 Год назад +3

    I go round with a square and quickly mark the centre of the studs on the floor. That way if your putting up anything on the walls like cupboards etc it’s quick to find the studs. Also you can place the laser line on it when the plasterboard covers over the stud.

  • @MrWindowman1
    @MrWindowman1 18 дней назад

    why not set the noggin's to the board to save waste ???

  • @tparker18
    @tparker18 Год назад +2

    Thanks for this I am about to tackle this job, going down the drylining route too

  • @stephenhudson3496
    @stephenhudson3496 Год назад +1

    Plaster board screw have sharp slithers that will go in to your fingers and break off use glove to prevent this

  • @dannymurphy1779
    @dannymurphy1779 Год назад +1

    I do like these more 'basic' videos. Perhaps more for the DIYer - Screwfix do a good 1.2m T square (Magusson) for cutting plasterboard, it is riveted sp you need to check for square when you buy but mine was square and at the time I was surprised how cheap it was, a decent straight edge for plywood etc too as can be hooked like a speedsquare.

  • @lawrenceholtgrieve6762
    @lawrenceholtgrieve6762 Год назад +1

    I going out to buy myself a fluffy dog before I begin my next project. Thanks for the tip.

  • @marks-0-0
    @marks-0-0 Год назад +3

    One thing I liked to do when fitting boards horizontally on top of eachother was to lay a temporary 2mm spacer between the boards so that the join wasn't under the strain of the top board.

    • @willhastings
      @willhastings Год назад +1

      Yep, all wallboard manufacturers recommend a small gap 2/3mm between boards. Rarely see it done though, bit of a faff

  • @stevemurrell
    @stevemurrell Год назад +1

    When I was doing a lot of plaster boarding during a home renovation I picked up an inexpensive aluminium L angle. Perfect for using as a cutting guide and is 2.5m in length. Use it all the time now as get much more accurate cuts / lines.

  • @najae20
    @najae20 4 месяца назад +1

    Like your video

  • @stevewoodw
    @stevewoodw Год назад +2

    I looked at gypsum when I had a garden with clay rich soil that didn't drain too easily. It may not be drainage you're concerned with - sand as well will help if you've got leftovers - I grew marjoram and tarragon at the top of a slope a while back and sand and gypsum were about right for the requirements.

    • @TheRestorationCouple
      @TheRestorationCouple  Год назад +1

      The 5 acre hill field is very compacted and we shot a video testing the soil recently about the low levels of calcium there so a combo of gypsum and mechanical opening of the ground was recommended.

  • @davidfinn3771
    @davidfinn3771 Год назад +1

    When you're taping the joints put the tape in water as you use it. It adheres better, you don't want it too dry

  • @stuartbatson9125
    @stuartbatson9125 Год назад

    Make yourself a Plasterboard box/coffin for cutting on, cut a sheet in half 600mm length ways, then score 600mm in, snap and fold, screw a piece of timber on all 4 corners, then screw together to make a box.. place your boards on so your not working on the floor cutting.. also boardmates.. your can get them on ebay for £7 are really handy for boarding ceilings by yourself.. Dewalt collated screwgun is a great bit of kit for the price, just as good as a hilti for less than half the cost👍

  • @petercampbe11
    @petercampbe11 Год назад

    Hi Tim, i am filling in an archway between our lounge and dining room. how much space do you recommend to leave for a skimming coat of plaster? 2-3mm - so if i build the stud wall with 15mm space for plasterboard (12.5mm) and skimming?

  • @daveroughley6716
    @daveroughley6716 Год назад

    Not skimming to keep the weight down hahahhahahaha.mite aswell just have them Japanese style paper walls 🙄

  • @TheNorthernmunky
    @TheNorthernmunky Год назад

    Brilliant Timbo, we’ll done. And we’ll done Maggie too for be in big support dog.

  • @gingerelvis
    @gingerelvis Год назад +1

    Totally agree on the plasterboard lift, I struggled my way through all the ceilings in my house with just me and my old man up a tower. I never got on with those drywall bits personally, the ones I had still seamed to go too deep and obscured your view so you couldn't stop short, just went with the old fashioned PH2's in the end. I actually quite like using an impact on a lower power, much lighter working overhead.

    • @TheRestorationCouple
      @TheRestorationCouple  Год назад

      Yeah a lift is a must, especially on 3m+ ceilings like our old house. Perhaps some bits deeper than others, I know you can buy adjustable depth collars too which might help. 👍

    • @gingerelvis
      @gingerelvis Год назад

      @@TheRestorationCouple The pain when the plasterer said I could have borrowed his lift for free when he came to skim was real 😅

  • @chriscardwell3495
    @chriscardwell3495 Год назад

    Thanks for all the tips - Really appreciated. Maggie wants to join in fitting plaster boards 🙂

  • @markanderson8775
    @markanderson8775 7 месяцев назад

    Thanks - very helpful

  • @wowyummyyy
    @wowyummyyy Год назад

    ´Super 😻😻😻😻😻😻 💯💯💯👍👍👍👍👍👍

  • @superiorbeing95
    @superiorbeing95 Год назад

    15:17 Roger @ Skillbuilder did a video once saying how plasterboard gives off hydrogen sulphide if it goes to landfill, just wondered if you'd looked into this in any detail?

    • @TheRestorationCouple
      @TheRestorationCouple  Год назад

      Not looked in to it myself but it makes sense to recycle as it has so many uses. 👍

    • @superiorbeing95
      @superiorbeing95 Год назад

      @@TheRestorationCouple I guess in your location it won't be an issue, apparently it's quite toxic and reason why you can't put it in a skip, glad to see the progress you're making.

  • @Always_Hustling_UK
    @Always_Hustling_UK Год назад

    Great video

  • @jodirauth8847
    @jodirauth8847 Год назад

    Awesome progres

  • @laapulsford
    @laapulsford Год назад

    Another great video - quick question, no soundproof/ insulation inside the stud?

    • @TheRestorationCouple
      @TheRestorationCouple  Год назад

      Just between all the bedrooms and bathrooms, that was just a room divider by the entrance. 👍

    • @laapulsford
      @laapulsford Год назад

      @@TheRestorationCouple Ah ok, that makes sense. I think there is a chance your views might be confused as to the final location of the new dwelling and how you will perform the move of the two halfs. The build so far has been immaculate from a construction point of view.

  • @54mgtf22
    @54mgtf22 Год назад

    Love your work 👍

  • @jdickson242
    @jdickson242 Год назад +1

    Internal partitions should achieve and Rw of 40 dB minimum. And generally hit 30min fire rating. This partition wont hit either of those targets.

  • @martinvho
    @martinvho Год назад +3

    Sure... plasterboard tip: Have someone else do it! It's a pain and not worth what you save in time vs money unless you work a minimum wage job, in which case: get good and become a plasterer to double your income. A professional plasterer can do the work in half the time and leave a better result than you can. Your time is valuable and you only get it once, so use it wisely.

    • @Raysnature
      @Raysnature Год назад +3

      I think you missed this channel's tag line. 😂

  • @bassplaya69er
    @bassplaya69er Год назад +2

    Rent a decent ( hilti) collated screw gun if doing a lot of plasterboard on to studwork / ceilings.
    Edit: you beat me to it, you didn't mention why you are not using it though?
    Edit edit:
    No need for a plasterboard lift as long as you can reach the ceiling from small steps. Working on your own, make up a pair of T's with a 1200ish long T and the leg slightly longer than your floor to ceiling height. Lean one up against the wall with a slight gap to ceiling, and the other within arm's reach. Lift the board, tuck one end above the first T, hold sheet up with one hand then grab second t and wedge the board. Easter to do than to explain.
    If working in a large room away from the wall, you just wedge the first T against the ceiling with it wedges leaning towards where the next sheet will go, leaving a small gap to tuck the end of the sheet in to, likewise have the other T within arm's reach. I have plasterboard the ceilings of a 3 bed house like this on my own and it's super easy and quicker than a plaster board lift.
    Edit edit edit:
    You can grind up plasterboard yourself to use as a soil improver, just don't put too much and produce poisonous gas.
    Pritty sure I read that a wood chipper works fine but ymmv

  • @Saxonsince81
    @Saxonsince81 Месяц назад

    This is painful to watch , so many mistakes , leave it to the professionals lad

    • @CharlieLawson-b7v
      @CharlieLawson-b7v 21 день назад

      In it mate not even basic showing once u can your board down use the off cut board for paccers 😂

    • @CharlieLawson-b7v
      @CharlieLawson-b7v 21 день назад

      Cut not can 😮

  • @kevincasson9848
    @kevincasson9848 Год назад

    Too much talking and not enough wofking!

  • @tiddybearkush
    @tiddybearkush 6 месяцев назад

    Pro tip: use pallet jacks dont lay them on the floor