🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. ☕Patreon membership www.patreon.com/charlieDIYte - includes Discord access. ☕Buy Me a Coffee bit.ly/3xuQ3zb - to help support my Channel - also use it for membership a bit like Patreon. 👚Charlie DIYte Official Merch Store charlie-diyte.myspreadshop.co.uk/ - all new range of professionally designed merch.
Great video Charlie - really useful stuff. One thing I like about your channel is that you post videos when you have something useful to say, not because you always post a video every Monday at 6pm whether you have anything worthwhile to say or not - just to make money. Well done Charlie - keep up the good work!
Thanks so much for that. Yes it's a tough gig this because I don't get nearly enough videos out there which annoys the algorithm but the style of my vids makes it very difficult to do one a week. 👍
I have another use for Soudal Adhesive Foam which you may not be aware of! When I installed chipboard flooring, 2400mm by 600mm sheets, I sprayed the foam on top of the joists. The joists are original, probably a hundred years old, a bit beaten up! I also used the foam in the tongue and groove of the chipboard flooring. I laid the chipboard on top of the expanding foam, which filled any gaps and also stuck the boards to the joists. The floor is now like a concrete floor to walk on, there is never a creek or movement in the floor. It is fantastic!! I used the Soudal Adhesive Foam to install 4” (100mm) Kingspan directly to the walls, then faced that off with plasterboards. I used the plastic dry lining double electric wall boxes, dug out the kingspan foam to make enough room and used the 75mm foil tape to damp proof it. Stuck it in with the foam, beautiful job! I could not get anyone to approve the design of sticking the 100mm kingspan directly to the wall and then sticking the plasterboard to the kingspan. “They all” said I should use the tried and tested method of creating a stud wall. Each kingspan sheet is also secured with mechanical fixings for fire safety... In one roof I used 4" kingspan between the joists. You must not push the kingspan against the felt/tiles, you must leave a couple of inches gap for ventilation between the kingspan and the tiles. The trick here is to cut up scrap pieces of kingspan, and then use the Soudal Adhesive Foam to stick these spacers to the joists. It works, because there's hardly any weight to the kingspan foam spacer, it will stick in place without falling off (usually) .... I installed several door frames, I used a combination of wood spacers, wedges, and soudal adhesive foam. Now here's a good tip for you. Use plenty of foam, and as it goes off it expands like a sponge cake rising in your wifes oven. Leave it until it is starting to Harden. While it's still slightly tacky and not completely hard, tap it in gently with the edge of a scrap piece of plasterboard. This is important because the edge of the plasterboard is just chalk and it will not stick to the foam! You compress It, and it makes a lovely surface of the foam, and the most important thing? What you are doing is you are compressing the foam together and you form a solid sheet of very hard stiff plastic out of the foam. This sheet of plastic will make your door frame absolutely solid and immovable.... There's another use which I haven't used myself but I saw a RUclips video of a guy laying a self-leveling floor. At the boundaries he ran a bead of foam along to stop the liquid from travelling where he didn't want it to go. I thought it was a brilliant idea!
Oh that is a fantastic idea. I avoid putting the normal PU glue on those chipboard floor panels because, despite stopping the squeaks, I just feel it is too much of a hassle if you ever need to lift them. Foam + screws, however, sounds like the best of both worlds - sticks down but is easily removed.
Good advice. Did all my bathrooms plasterboards and Kerdi boards with Screwfix no nonsense foam. I wet both sides and waited 10 min so the foam was almost cured. I also put schluter anchors on the walls I was tiling after. This is so much better than drywall adhesive. Great video with a lot of good tips!
wow that is by far the best vid I've seen on expanding foam adhesive, you covered everything and more, super thorough, great content as usual by your self, this is going to help me enormously on my renovation, so thank you very much
Brilliant. I've been using plasterboard foam for years and swear by it. It sticks to anything too. So excellent for over boarding a room and improving insulation.
You make it look so easy! - i have never failed to learn something when watching your videos! :-) thanks for sharing your knowledge, (and owning up when something didnt go right!)
Great video Charlie. Just finished a similar job using k18 plasterboard I got from one of your other vids. I was a little uneasy using foam on it's own when I discovered Damp Sam uses Drygrip Adhesive from Dryzone in addition. It's a little expensive but gives that feeling of working with drywall adhesive without any moisture or cold bridging & the added security of not just relying on foam. Another good tip I got elsewhere is using tile backer board as it has excellent moisture & thermal properties, great to have between your electrical back boxes & the wall, also excellent to use on your reveals.
I've never seen board adhered directly to the steels. I have always used a timber substructure around the steel and then attached plasterboard to that. I do like the foam adhesive and glad you got on with it. 👍👍
What bloody good timing Charlie👍🏼 I’m building a fitted wardrobe using an Ikea PAX cupboard and it’s going against an external cavity wall that I’m not 100% confident on it’s insulation performance so to ensure I don’t have any damp issues behind the new cupboard I’m installing some insulated plasterboard, which I was going to buy from SWIP after your recommendations ( technical guy Ian is a very good bloke!) but they wanted more for delivery than the materials cost so have gone elsewhere. I was going to use plasterboard adhesive but will keep my fingers crossed and use the foam format 👍🏼
A cavity wall construction should not have 'damp' issues on the internal skin...unless there is poor ventilation or some element of cold bridging. In my house, someone had drilled a small hole for the SKY cable to come through without thinking about cold bridging, a pattern of mold appeared along the airflow of cold air on the wall. Filled that hole, no more mold.
@@JohnnyMotel99 thanks Johnny. No damp as such, just a very cold wall that’s going to sit behind a new fitted wardrobe. Just want to ensure there’s definitely no issues behind the cupboard 6 months down the line
I'd never considered using this, but your vid shows it off well. The only way I can think plasterboard adhesive being better is strategic dabs of that where you're going to fix something to the wall, such as a TV, and you can get a decent fixing through to the brick behind without risking the plasterboard collapsing when tightening.
Always learning useful techniques and what pitfalls to avoid from your videos. I could be wrong but one of the major drawbacks for me would be it's fairly flammable stuff and if your whole house is lined with it I think some sort of firebreak system would be needed. I have never used either method and I would be tempted to use your way but I would be first looking in to the issue of fire. I am not sure I would use it around electrical boxes for example. Probably better to simply not use metal back boxes. All that said house is looking beautiful.
Could you provide some advice relating to fire integrity? I thought with dot and dab plaster adhesive you were advised to do continuous runs at the edges of the room to stop fire travelling up behind the plasterboard. Is it advisable to use intumescent adhesive foam for edges?
Hi Charlie, Never thought of using expanding foam to fix plaster board I know there will be pros and cons, but the good out weigh the bad. The bonus is using it to fit plaster board but its use as and insulation, great advice catch you soon take care
My plasterer did and dabbed my wall. It worked itself loose so I drilled tons of holes in the plasterboard pushed in the foam gun nozzle and pumped in the foam. Dried back nice and solid 👍
I started using expanding foam adhesive in my renovation about 6 months ago. Tried instastick for the most part but has some issues with non sticking. I have just found pink fill, it is pink grips version of drywall adhesive. Lay the sheet face down on the floor spray the foam wait 4 minutes until it turns stingy to the touch push up the board and away you go sets in a minute. However doesn't stick very well to walls as it is more than likely going to fall off it needs to turn sticky and stringy before it will stick vertically. It also has one of problem that it doesn't come in a gun form but instead comes with a plastic adaptor that converts it to gun form, it is a bit fiddly to attach but once it's on it fine. I may not be selling this product from this description but it will stick anything with such an adhesion it is truly unbelievable. If any of you have ever used pink grip or grip fill grab adhesive it's is as strong as them. It also last a long time you don't need alot of foam on a sheet I can hang 6-8 2.4x1.2m sheets with it.
I prefer the process of attaching the Kingspan (Foil both sides) first and then attaching the plasterboard to the kingspan. The plasterboard with the expanded foam backing already attached are difficult to handle, and difficult to get the joints exact, especially if you're up around the 4 inch (100mm) size... The main advantages of installing the kingspan first is that you can tape the joints with the aluminium tape. You can cut out runs in the expanded foam for cables, and you can cut out the locations for the drywall knockout boxes... Now you've got separate 12mm sheets of plasterboards to fit these are easy to cut (without any backing attached) you just Scribe along one side with a Stanley knife flip it a bit and it cracks along the joint then just cut the paper with the blade. Goes without saying, just make sure the plasterboard edges do not line up with any of the edges of the foil taped kingspan.. Put a piece of 4 by 2 along the bottom when you flip the plasterboard into place leaving two inch gap. This helps prevent any moisture being drawn up into the plasterboard from spills. This will be covered with the skirting board later. Stick the skirting board on with Soudal sticky foam. If you've forgotten any wires or the wife tells you she wants another socket somewhere, now is the time to stick a wire in there behind the skirting board. I also ran all my TV aerial cables through, and a cat 5 cable for the internet. I made all of the window reveals out of two inch Kingspan and plasterboards. Made a lovely job!
Good overview, it gives me more confidence going forward using foam adhesives, they've always felt like cheating... I'm just working off a vague memory, I did an insulated plasterboard project last year using helical fixings (giant PITA!!!) and adhesive foam. Is there a requirement for some fire rated fixings to avoid the chance of plasterboard falling during a fire?
So I have a sandstone 200 year old property which has a cavity of about 15/20cm and was plasterboarded by previous owners. Horrendous in winter, with walls freezing to touch. Going to follow your steps with insulated plasterboard. Can I simply attach this to the existing plasterboard or do I need to frame and install it? Very confused with opinions online. Any help appreciated. Enjoy your videos Charlie.
Thanks Charlie. Do you have a video on using guns with expanding foam, and the cleaning process? I'm going to buy my first foam gun to get more precise application.
Good video Charlie, thanks. One thing I'd like to see is a comparison of different foams (even regular expanding foam) to see what weight they can hold and hot it has to be for them to start sliding off a wall. It also looks like you are using XPS plasterboard rather than PIR and wonder if there is any reason for that other than cost?
Great idea especially avoiding the cold bridges of DaD. Fire ratings need examining or you could build an interior grenfell. I would add a few mechanical fixings to the RSJ coverings
Always enjoy watching your videos Charlie. I very much like this idea of using PU foam to fix plasterboards. I'm in a middle of DIY project of the top bedroom of our house - a Victorian solid brick construction. This top room has 3 walls with no rendering outside. I've removed the old plaster blown plaster of the wall with the window down to brick and left the other 2 walls as the plaster is sound and good. Having seen you other videos of dot dabbing and the swip systems for internal lining and now this video, i am tempted to use adhesive foam to stick insulated plasterboard straight to both the brick and 2 plastered surfaces. Any thoughts and advice is highly appreciated.
With the insulated plasterboard the most important thing is to prevent moisture getting behind. The sheets should have an inbuilt vapour barrier but it's the edges and around reveals and plug sockets you have a potential problem. That's why foam is a good option - make sure it's continuous around all edges and of course the sockets, but I have to say, the SWIP system is far superior to using insulated plasterboard.
Half way through the vid Charlie and it's uncanny that I've also switched to Polyurethane low expansion foam for soooo many tasks this last year also. list is endless. Souda bond Easy is my go to so I'm intrigued to finish the vid. Only thing I will say thus far is £7????? for a can of Insta Stik? Where from!? £12 is the cheapest I've ever seen. :)
I agonized about the structural soundness of sticking the 4" kingspan (foil both sides) to the wall and then again the plasterboard on the outside of it... I just didn't think it would be strong enough! So I cut a 2ft by 2ft square piece of kingspan and stuck it to the wall with the Soudal Sticky Foam Adhesive. Leave it for an hour or so. Got one of the lads helping me to try and pull it off! Adam, a wiry young chap, strong! He struggled, cursed and swore! Got his feet against the wall and eventually pulled it off! I was impressed by how strong it was. I mulled over the issues, what was happening? When you dob & dab a normal plasterboard to the wall what are you doing? You are sticking a thin layer of chalk about half an inch thick with paper on each side to the wall! That's all it is! I realized that sticking the kingspan with Soudal Sticky Foam Adhesive was hardly any different from this from a strength point of view. In fact you could argue that the aluminium foil is stronger than paper... What do you think?
Yes at the end of the day it's only as strong as the bond between the foil or paper and the gypsum beneath. The day you shouldn't dot and dab foil backed plasterboard. I guess because the bond of the foil is less than it is for the normal version and when you look at tests on RUclips people do with say grab adhesives and skirtings dishonest it takes a big chunk of plasterboard away when they pull it off which suggests the paper has a much better bond than the foil - which does make sense as the foil is very easy to peel off.
Not sure what I did wrong .. but I followed how I understood your guide (having never used foam adhesive before). I used Instastik, wet the wall and board (a full board of insulated plasterboard), then squirted a good bead all over the board. By the time I'd finished squirting the foam onto the board (which I wasn't particularly slow doing), the first part of the foam had already dried. I touched it to check for your "Stringy" quality, but it was dry and not sticky at all .. there was no way it'd have stuck to a wall. I'm not quite sure what I did wrong really .. but It came off the insulation on the board really easy with a simple scraper .. and was fully dry all the way through the foam .. not sticky at all. I'll perhaps have another go tomorrow once it's all dried out, and only wet the wall and not the board .. and spray the foam onto the board again. Maybe that'd slow the curing?
I've used loads of this to renovate my house. It's great stuff. Demsun P96 is great and used 20+ bottles of it. The cheapest i've found as places like screwfix/toolstation charge double is discount trade supplies (DTS) and great CS from them too.
I don't think I've used a metal back box anywhere where I've used insulated plaster board. Instead, I used a Crabtre dry lining box and also fit a piece of PU insulation behind the box. I've been using 50mm PU backed plasterboard from Kingspan for my refurb. I've used both board adhesive and foam at different times but had a lot of problems with conventional foam guns blocking and also with the foam not wanting to come out of the can at low temperatures. Your video is really useful, thanks for sharing what you've learned, warts and all(!).
@@jonathanbuzzard1376 never had one break yet. I'm not sure how they'd break without destroying the socket too. Sounds like you need Metalclad and conduit for your applications.
@@davidquirk8097 Plug something in and then give the cord a good yank, say a vacuum cleaner and you just extend the cord too much is one way. Have it behind a bed with something plugged in and push the bed up against it would be another. Stick them in wall with a push to exit button, they will last a couple of weeks tops in that application.
Great video! I'm about to use foam to fix kerdi style boards to a thermalite very porus wall, what was your conclusion on priming? Is a quick coat of pva a decent enough solution? Planning to dowel to the wall for a strong fix. Thanks
Yeah it's definitely worth mentioning that if you use foam then building regs require a mechanical fixing as well. I'll still never go back to plasterboard adhesive though, it's such a slow, messy, back breaking product to use.
I think the fire regulations say that you need the mechanical Fixings in corridors and areas which are escape routes from a fire. However I bought a great big box of mechanical fixings ( bulk by a lot cheaper) so I used them everywhere in excess!
Have you got a link to the cavity closer you used. Would you know what can be used around a upvc window where one of the bricks is 1" short to go at the side of the window so now there's a gap and expanding foam will fall out because of the cavity.
How does this compare to the hot glue you used for skirting before? Thank you for this video. I was dreading the mess when fitting insulated plasterboard. This looks way better.
The hot glue is like a Dremel - great to have up your sleeve for occasional use, but it's quirky and it's application is rather limited. It goes off very quickly and you wouldn't be able to use it for a job like this.
Good timing - I'm just playing around with plasterboard adhesive. I was under the impression you had to add mechanical fixings after the product had gone off for fire safety ... I recently did a sheet to compare to a plasterer who used adhesive and the amount of wasted space in a small property using spray adhesive makes it worth while. Charlie, what are your thoughts on using it for insulated boards (12.5+50mm combined with mechanical fixings) ? These are pretty hefty - but I'd like to get them as flush as possible.
Yes I would definitely use foam for those insulated boards. That's the exact thickness I used upstairs. Not building regs compliant but it's transformed the heating of each room. And yes you're right, you do need mechanical fixings for fire regs. The beauty is you can spray behind all the electrical back boxes too. 👌
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for confirming. I've set myself the challenge of getting a better and more straight, plumb and even finish than the pros who finished one room using D&D. I'm highly confident that I'll achieve better (following some of your helpful hints from this & other videos).
Thought you didn’t make enough of one of the biggest advantages of using foam over dot & dab. Draught proofing. My house was built in the 90’s with an insulated slab dabbed inside 4”block 4”cavity 4”block wall. Cavity was pumped in 2007. Made no difference to the heating bill, or the comfort. Took the skirting (which was held on with 100mm steel nails into the inner leaf) off to replace the flooring & used foam to attach the new skirting. Reduced our heating bill by about 30%. Hot air was draughting up in the void where the dot & dab cement was keeping the insulation off the block wall.
Thanks for this! I thought you needed to use mechanical fixing as well as foam, although admittedly a lot fewer than you normally would. When I did underneath my bay window using this method I bunged a load of screws in too which helped draw it level. It's not going anywhere. However, unlike you I found leaving it to cure a little just meant it skinned over and didn't stick at all. I had to reapply and stick it instantly (this was using insta stick) to get a bond. From your video it seems perhaps I didn;t shake the can enough. Finally, I am wondering about using this for some overboarding of a ceiling, with mechanical fixings too.
It’s important to spray both surfaces with water-just damp, not soaking wet. Now, I’m not certain, but I suspect the sticky foam has something like a polyurethane adhesive in it-there are different varieties, of course. If you’ve used sticky foam before, you might’ve noticed they tell you to wet the surfaces before applying. Why is that? Well, the moisture helps the polyurethane foam cure and expand properly, creating a strong bond. moisture is key to getting the best adhesion!
I am going to try insulate some rooms in my house soon but this is what is confusing . Is it ok to put metal screws in yes or no? Im reading people saying they cause cold spots and allow condensation to gather. I read that that plastic mushroom type fixings are the way to go to fix to the wall?
@@stephensmyth6363 I have seen the plastic type used for external wall insulation. Indoors I don't think it's a major issue. You do not need that many screws in any case when using the insta-stick, it's just for fire safety to stop the boards popping off the wall. I used a ridiculous amount of plasterboard screws and I have had no issues with cold bridging on a north facing bay window. As Charlie says, use a good quality foaming gun, not the can applied stuff.
The other problem to watch out for is rust Spots. Use screws, like the afore mentioned plasterboard screws, which have a coating which prevents rusting and brown spots on your wall!
Wow, just about to fix some insulated tile backer boards to a masonary wall in my bathroom. After watching this my thoughts are expanding adhesive, then mechanical fixers (drill through once board fixed, push plugs through and then screw). This surface will be tiled. See any problems with the weight of tiles on the board pulling the spray adhesive? What is the strength vs normal powedered tile adhesive?
I have used foam to stick plasterboard on previous projects and it worked well. I’m currently doing a bedroom where the old brickwork is all over the place. I did try foam but couldn’t get the board’s vertical. In the end it was either batten out of use plasterboard adhesive. Any thoughts in this situation. Enjoy your videos always great tips and content.
Thanks Glynn. Yes if the wall is too irregular you do need to batten (or use adhesive) - battening like I did on that wall in the kitchen that I showed with spray foam behind it, or at the very least, batten out the deepest voids and foam the rest but battening the whole wall would be tidier. Doing it with tile adhesive is such a major job in that you need all the tools buckets etc, you might be better making a single frame of battens, offering that up, leveling it with glazing packers and a bit of foam behind and then screwing the plasterboard to that. Some would say, battening is a faff easier to just use adhesive. Whatever you find easier.
Do you think the Soudal plasterboard adhesive will be ok for sticking skirting boards on to plasterboard? I’m just finishing up installing our engineered wood flooring and it’s time to put the skirting boards back in. I mistakenly grabbed the plasterboard can instead of the standard PU adhesive 🤦♀️
I had a big problem with the foam continuing to expand for some time after fitting the panel to the wall; bulges, and edges that really didn't want to line up any more. Is that a symptom of not letting it flash off for long enough? Got it done in the end, no fun though.
Where do you get your insulated battens from please???? 5:04 I've never seen those before!! They would be amazing for the next stage of my house insulation!! I was going to buy a load of 2X4s but those insulated battens would be far better I think!!
Have a search for making your own - I recently saw a video where someone glued PIR to plywood sheets then cut them into batten sizes. Seems like a great idea!
just finished insulating and boarding a victorian house no prep required, no battens, just stuck it to the wall, epicly useful product, imagine dot and dabing all your life only for this to come out 😹, in fairness tho, i would rather have bought my house in 1972 for a cheesburger and a handshake. but the rise of technology marches on, im patiently waiting for wireless caulk that gap fills your entire house, you could even get alexa to do it for you😆
@@donmoloney7633 I wall use short anchors drill the hole and hammer them in. My main reason for this is which maybe Charlie can answer is does the foam not push the board out from the wall ?
You could use corefix or rigifix fixings if you can screw into the brickwork behind. If the gap between plasterboard and wall is too much then a frame fixing would also work as these are longer, or better still set some battens behind the plasterboard.
Foam also helps with sound insulation unlike D&D which amplifies the sound. I find with using foam, it works great if you use a large brush and a bucket of water and just go to town with wetting the wall down to remove any dust and dampen the surface of the bricks/blocks. The foam goes off much faster, you get a good bond and most of the water is used up by the foam, plus you have loads less water sitting on your walls as its surface water unlike D&D just sitting there soaking into the walls.
Yeah I treat it a little like contact adhesive. Needs that few minutes to tack over. Insta Stik is defo bringing up the rear for me as you didn't go into detail but Souda Bond Easy is the chief.
Did you have any issues with compatibility of the insulated board and the foam. My building merchant offers xtratherm pir plasterboard but the manufacturer does not have any data on using foam, only dot and dab. I’m doing the inside of a brick cavity wall which has been prepped with green grit.
My main issue with foams, is fire safety. They burn like an Olympic torch and give off nasty nasty fumes. Same applies of cause to PIR back plaster board… I try and keep both away from sources of ignition
I got it wrong and stuck a sheet of plasterboard to the chimney breast. I'd miss measured and had to remove it... It was stuck on better than a DOB and dab plasterboard. I had a hell of a game getting it off...
it only degrades when exposed to UV light, and in applications such as shown in the video it obviously doesn't so will likely last forever. I recently had to remove a huge blob of expanding foam left under the bathtub by previous owners, done almost 15 years ago. And it took some elbow grease as it was hard as a rock.
Yes, but their effect will be mainly determined by what type of Insulated boards you get. They will list the U (W/mK) value for insulation rating and the sound will be in dB (decibels). Insulated boards of different types have different ratings. Another good thing to check is the fire rating for the boards.
I like the foam stuff but plaster and drywall adhesive doesn't 'dry', it sets which is a simple way of saying it's a chemical reaction and the water is combined with the powder to become a different compound, so unless you make a complete mess of mixing it and use far too much water, there really shouldn't be much left to get trapped as moisture.
Yes that's true about plaster and plasterboard. The water content is actually chemically combined with the material. I think plasterboards are actually 20% water but they are not damp at all because the water is chemically combined. This is what makes plasterboard such a wonderful building material and practically fireproof because this water is released as the plasterboard is heated and and goes some way to suppressing the fire...
is it ok to use foam adhesive around hot water/gas pipes. i just insulated my walls and used no nonsense sticky foam adhesive foam around pipes. paranoid now😂
I cannot stand instabond. I've used bondit megastik on pretty much an entire house. Selco ran out once and had to use instabond, it was awful. *such* a less forgiving experience. So far I've used megastik to add pir to my double skin walls, and plasterboard throughout,and it's been an absolute pleasure
Did you have any issues with compatibility of the insulated board and the foam. My building merchant offers xtratherm pir plasterboard but the manufacturer does not have any data on using foam, only dot and dab. I’m doing the inside of a brick cavity wall which has been prepped with green grit.
@@georgefisher6842 I didn't bother with insulated plasterboard, the price is ridiculous. I stuck celotex to the walls with foam, then plasterboard to that offset 300mm to the celotex. Then each sheet got 2 or 3 twistfix hammer in fixings. Used megastik for the lot. Found that giving the foam 7 minutes to firm up gave me a gap of about 5 or 6mm, but 5 mine gave me a much closer fit.
No problems at all, I've just finished the upstairs floor of a 3 bed semi with 50mm foil backed PIR and 12.5mm board. I was sceptical at first but you wouldn't believe how well it bonds the heavy boards to the wall.
The only thing I'd say is you can't use driwall with foil backed boards. Not sure why but could be because the foil tears off too easily.. So I would have thought the same applies to foam.
@@Stormin_MikeIt's a weird one, non-standard construction steel frame house faced in brick. Outer brick skin with galvanised steel core plasterboards screwed into gaps in the steel stanchions, the old screws are virtually just a friction fit. I fixed with foam directly over the old boards, using long self drilling stainless screws to give a solid mechanical fixing into the steels.
Wouldn't some grab adhesive such as Sticks like solve a lot of these issues. No need to damp the area, instant stick, can make adjustments instantly. The turbo stuff is almost instant, and will very strong after 15mins. Maybe cost would be more of an issue though.
I was literally just foaming some insulation to my garage this evening and learned a decent amount, like waiting 5 mins for it to go off a bit otherwise it sags. I've always not liked the idea of dot and dab. Mainly as its a cold bridge and leaves a lot of void behind the plasterboard. This video was great. I'm insulating my bathroom soon and will 100% be using foam, this has just boosted my confidence. Thanks I was thinking about banging 4 masonry screws in each corner for fire resistance purposes? Not sure if its even worth the effort though. Are these foams fire resistant? Or at least non flammable ? I used a fire resistant one. Are they all non flammable by default ?
I don't want to throw a spanner in your works mate but I'm an old school guy and it don't matter what nonsense they come out with these days,you can't beat the old fashion way of sand and cement to do your walls,I'm not knocking what your doin so don't think I am👍👍👍👍
Another good tip when installing a new canister of foam to your gun, do it inside a black bin bag bin liner! You can occasionally have an accident and the connection doesn't get made properly and you get foam squirting out everywhere! If you do it inside a black bin bag there's less mist to clean up!
Terrible isn't it. I was told my thumbnails look washed out so it's a pathetic attempt to make them more interesting to try and bag a few more views. I tell you, being a creator is enough to actually make me insane 😉
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools.
☕Patreon membership www.patreon.com/charlieDIYte - includes Discord access.
☕Buy Me a Coffee bit.ly/3xuQ3zb - to help support my Channel - also use it for membership a bit like Patreon.
👚Charlie DIYte Official Merch Store charlie-diyte.myspreadshop.co.uk/ - all new range of professionally designed merch.
I'm converted. I like this much better than leaving wet adhesive to dry out behind the drywall. Thanks for video Charlie 😉 👍
You're welcome. Glad you found it useful.👊
@@CharlieDIYte it can fall off in time but yes it kwick
Great video Charlie - really useful stuff. One thing I like about your channel is that you post videos when you have something useful to say, not because you always post a video every Monday at 6pm whether you have anything worthwhile to say or not - just to make money. Well done Charlie - keep up the good work!
Thanks so much for that. Yes it's a tough gig this because I don't get nearly enough videos out there which annoys the algorithm but the style of my vids makes it very difficult to do one a week. 👍
Just about to plasterboard my son's bedroom,thank god I watched your video before buying materials great tips and advice as usual 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks so much Paul. That's humbling 👌
I have another use for Soudal Adhesive Foam which you may not be aware of! When I installed chipboard flooring, 2400mm by 600mm sheets, I sprayed the foam on top of the joists. The joists are original, probably a hundred years old, a bit beaten up! I also used the foam in the tongue and groove of the chipboard flooring. I laid the chipboard on top of the expanding foam, which filled any gaps and also stuck the boards to the joists. The floor is now like a concrete floor to walk on, there is never a creek or movement in the floor. It is fantastic!!
I used the Soudal Adhesive Foam to install 4” (100mm) Kingspan directly to the walls, then faced that off with plasterboards. I used the plastic dry lining double electric wall boxes, dug out the kingspan foam to make enough room and used the 75mm foil tape to damp proof it. Stuck it in with the foam, beautiful job!
I could not get anyone to approve the design of sticking the 100mm kingspan directly to the wall and then sticking the plasterboard to the kingspan. “They all” said I should use the tried and tested method of creating a stud wall.
Each kingspan sheet is also secured with mechanical fixings for fire safety...
In one roof I used 4" kingspan between the joists. You must not push the kingspan against the felt/tiles, you must leave a couple of inches gap for ventilation between the kingspan and the tiles. The trick here is to cut up scrap pieces of kingspan, and then use the Soudal Adhesive Foam to stick these spacers to the joists. It works, because there's hardly any weight to the kingspan foam spacer, it will stick in place without falling off (usually) ....
I installed several door frames, I used a combination of wood spacers, wedges, and soudal adhesive foam. Now here's a good tip for you. Use plenty of foam, and as it goes off it expands like a sponge cake rising in your wifes oven. Leave it until it is starting to Harden. While it's still slightly tacky and not completely hard, tap it in gently with the edge of a scrap piece of plasterboard. This is important because the edge of the plasterboard is just chalk and it will not stick to the foam! You compress It, and it makes a lovely surface of the foam, and the most important thing? What you are doing is you are compressing the foam together and you form a solid sheet of very hard stiff plastic out of the foam. This sheet of plastic will make your door frame absolutely solid and immovable....
There's another use which I haven't used myself but I saw a RUclips video of a guy laying a self-leveling floor. At the boundaries he ran a bead of foam along to stop the liquid from travelling where he didn't want it to go. I thought it was a brilliant idea!
0:00
That's a jolly good idea as I have a similar task to complete in a 200 year old property. Thanks.
Oh that is a fantastic idea. I avoid putting the normal PU glue on those chipboard floor panels because, despite stopping the squeaks, I just feel it is too much of a hassle if you ever need to lift them. Foam + screws, however, sounds like the best of both worlds - sticks down but is easily removed.
Whopper 🎉
Cool story bro
I love the way you keep your vids really clear, stay on topic and get your message across. Keep them coming Charlie, you're a star
4:14 - having “adequate wood” at your age Charlie is something to aspire to!
🤣🤣🤣
😂
Good advice. Did all my bathrooms plasterboards and Kerdi boards with Screwfix no nonsense foam. I wet both sides and waited 10 min so the foam was almost cured. I also put schluter anchors on the walls I was tiling after. This is so much better than drywall adhesive. Great video with a lot of good tips!
wow that is by far the best vid I've seen on expanding foam adhesive, you covered everything and more, super thorough, great content as usual by your self, this is going to help me enormously on my renovation, so thank you very much
Brilliant. I've been using plasterboard foam for years and swear by it. It sticks to anything too. So excellent for over boarding a room and improving insulation.
For anyone who needs to know, each can will get about *6* 8x4 plasterboards to the wall, roughly _17.28 sqm_ i am using Bond it MEGASTIK foam.
You make it look so easy! - i have never failed to learn something when watching your videos! :-) thanks for sharing your knowledge, (and owning up when something didnt go right!)
Thanks Martin, I really appreciate that 🙏👊
Just been fixing insulated plasterboard with adhesive foam, it's great!
Could I ask what thickness ? I'm looking at installing 12.5+50mm soon.
@@chrisroyle4813 i used 37. 5 Celotex as that was the maximum I was allowed to "decrease" the room size by, but obviously the more the better!
Great video Charlie. Just finished a similar job using k18 plasterboard I got from one of your other vids.
I was a little uneasy using foam on it's own when I discovered Damp Sam uses Drygrip Adhesive from Dryzone in addition.
It's a little expensive but gives that feeling of working with drywall adhesive without any moisture or cold bridging & the added security of not just relying on foam.
Another good tip I got elsewhere is using tile backer board as it has excellent moisture & thermal properties, great to have between your electrical back boxes & the wall, also excellent to use on your reveals.
I've never seen board adhered directly to the steels. I have always used a timber substructure around the steel and then attached plasterboard to that. I do like the foam adhesive and glad you got on with it. 👍👍
Yes you can't really see it in the video but I had battens either side of the steel too.
What bloody good timing Charlie👍🏼 I’m building a fitted wardrobe using an Ikea PAX cupboard and it’s going against an external cavity wall that I’m not 100% confident on it’s insulation performance so to ensure I don’t have any damp issues behind the new cupboard I’m installing some insulated plasterboard, which I was going to buy from SWIP after your recommendations ( technical guy Ian is a very good bloke!) but they wanted more for delivery than the materials cost so have gone elsewhere. I was going to use plasterboard adhesive but will keep my fingers crossed and use the foam format 👍🏼
Good plan 👌
A cavity wall construction should not have 'damp' issues on the internal skin...unless there is poor ventilation or some element of cold bridging.
In my house, someone had drilled a small hole for the SKY cable to come through without thinking about cold bridging, a pattern of mold appeared along the airflow of cold air on the wall. Filled that hole, no more mold.
@@JohnnyMotel99 thanks Johnny. No damp as such, just a very cold wall that’s going to sit behind a new fitted wardrobe. Just want to ensure there’s definitely no issues behind the cupboard 6 months down the line
I'd never considered using this, but your vid shows it off well.
The only way I can think plasterboard adhesive being better is strategic dabs of that where you're going to fix something to the wall, such as a TV, and you can get a decent fixing through to the brick behind without risking the plasterboard collapsing when tightening.
That's a fair point. Or if you're going to that effort, put a patress in the wall you can screw directly into.
Always learning useful techniques and what pitfalls to avoid from your videos.
I could be wrong but one of the major drawbacks for me would be it's fairly flammable stuff and if your whole house is lined with it I think some sort of firebreak system would be needed. I have never used either method and I would be tempted to use your way but I would be first looking in to the issue of fire. I am not sure I would use it around electrical boxes for example. Probably better to simply not use metal back boxes.
All that said house is looking beautiful.
Could you provide some advice relating to fire integrity? I thought with dot and dab plaster adhesive you were advised to do continuous runs at the edges of the room to stop fire travelling up behind the plasterboard. Is it advisable to use intumescent adhesive foam for edges?
Absolute respect for all you video's. So many great tips and advice...gives me more confidence to use new methods and tools
Hi Charlie, Never thought of using expanding foam to fix plaster board I know there will be pros and cons, but the good out weigh the bad. The bonus is using it to fit plaster board but its use as and insulation, great advice catch you soon take care
Thanks Shaun 👊
My plasterer did and dabbed my wall. It worked itself loose so I drilled tons of holes in the plasterboard pushed in the foam gun nozzle and pumped in the foam. Dried back nice and solid 👍
Great work Chris. Yes that's what I did. I just over did it 😉
I started using expanding foam adhesive in my renovation about 6 months ago. Tried instastick for the most part but has some issues with non sticking. I have just found pink fill, it is pink grips version of drywall adhesive. Lay the sheet face down on the floor spray the foam wait 4 minutes until it turns stingy to the touch push up the board and away you go sets in a minute. However doesn't stick very well to walls as it is more than likely going to fall off it needs to turn sticky and stringy before it will stick vertically. It also has one of problem that it doesn't come in a gun form but instead comes with a plastic adaptor that converts it to gun form, it is a bit fiddly to attach but once it's on it fine. I may not be selling this product from this description but it will stick anything with such an adhesion it is truly unbelievable. If any of you have ever used pink grip or grip fill grab adhesive it's is as strong as them. It also last a long time you don't need alot of foam on a sheet I can hang 6-8 2.4x1.2m sheets with it.
I prefer the process of attaching the Kingspan (Foil both sides) first and then attaching the plasterboard to the kingspan. The plasterboard with the expanded foam backing already attached are difficult to handle, and difficult to get the joints exact, especially if you're up around the 4 inch (100mm) size... The main advantages of installing the kingspan first is that you can tape the joints with the aluminium tape. You can cut out runs in the expanded foam for cables, and you can cut out the locations for the drywall knockout boxes... Now you've got separate 12mm sheets of plasterboards to fit these are easy to cut (without any backing attached) you just Scribe along one side with a Stanley knife flip it a bit and it cracks along the joint then just cut the paper with the blade. Goes without saying, just make sure the plasterboard edges do not line up with any of the edges of the foil taped kingspan.. Put a piece of 4 by 2 along the bottom when you flip the plasterboard into place leaving two inch gap. This helps prevent any moisture being drawn up into the plasterboard from spills. This will be covered with the skirting board later. Stick the skirting board on with Soudal sticky foam. If you've forgotten any wires or the wife tells you she wants another socket somewhere, now is the time to stick a wire in there behind the skirting board. I also ran all my TV aerial cables through, and a cat 5 cable for the internet. I made all of the window reveals out of two inch Kingspan and plasterboards. Made a lovely job!
Good overview, it gives me more confidence going forward using foam adhesives, they've always felt like cheating... I'm just working off a vague memory, I did an insulated plasterboard project last year using helical fixings (giant PITA!!!) and adhesive foam. Is there a requirement for some fire rated fixings to avoid the chance of plasterboard falling during a fire?
So I have a sandstone 200 year old property which has a cavity of about 15/20cm and was plasterboarded by previous owners. Horrendous in winter, with walls freezing to touch. Going to follow your steps with insulated plasterboard. Can I simply attach this to the existing plasterboard or do I need to frame and install it? Very confused with opinions online. Any help appreciated. Enjoy your videos Charlie.
Yep im 💯 a convert. Once you get the hang of it its so much better. Especially for small jobs. No damp patches where the dab is too
That's a good point 👌
Great video, I used no more nails when I plaster boarded a few walls which worked really well too as it sticks so quickly
Yes that'd do the job if the substrate was nice and even. 👌
@@CharlieDIYte yes, the foam would definitely better if you need to correct any imperfections!
Thanks Charlie. Do you have a video on using guns with expanding foam, and the cleaning process? I'm going to buy my first foam gun to get more precise application.
Good video Charlie, thanks. One thing I'd like to see is a comparison of different foams (even regular expanding foam) to see what weight they can hold and hot it has to be for them to start sliding off a wall. It also looks like you are using XPS plasterboard rather than PIR and wonder if there is any reason for that other than cost?
Great idea especially avoiding the cold bridges of DaD. Fire ratings need examining or you could build an interior grenfell. I would add a few mechanical fixings to the RSJ coverings
Always enjoy watching your videos Charlie. I very much like this idea of using PU foam to fix plasterboards. I'm in a middle of DIY project of the top bedroom of our house - a Victorian solid brick construction. This top room has 3 walls with no rendering outside. I've removed the old plaster blown plaster of the wall with the window down to brick and left the other 2 walls as the plaster is sound and good.
Having seen you other videos of dot dabbing and the swip systems for internal lining and now this video, i am tempted to use adhesive foam to stick insulated plasterboard straight to both the brick and 2 plastered surfaces. Any thoughts and advice is highly appreciated.
With the insulated plasterboard the most important thing is to prevent moisture getting behind. The sheets should have an inbuilt vapour barrier but it's the edges and around reveals and plug sockets you have a potential problem. That's why foam is a good option - make sure it's continuous around all edges and of course the sockets, but I have to say, the SWIP system is far superior to using insulated plasterboard.
Half way through the vid Charlie and it's uncanny that I've also switched to Polyurethane low expansion foam for soooo many tasks this last year also. list is endless. Souda bond Easy is my go to so I'm intrigued to finish the vid. Only thing I will say thus far is £7????? for a can of Insta Stik? Where from!? £12 is the cheapest I've ever seen. :)
I agonized about the structural soundness of sticking the 4" kingspan (foil both sides) to the wall and then again the plasterboard on the outside of it... I just didn't think it would be strong enough! So I cut a 2ft by 2ft square piece of kingspan and stuck it to the wall with the Soudal Sticky Foam Adhesive. Leave it for an hour or so. Got one of the lads helping me to try and pull it off! Adam, a wiry young chap, strong! He struggled, cursed and swore! Got his feet against the wall and eventually pulled it off! I was impressed by how strong it was.
I mulled over the issues, what was happening? When you dob & dab a normal plasterboard to the wall what are you doing? You are sticking a thin layer of chalk about half an inch thick with paper on each side to the wall! That's all it is! I realized that sticking the kingspan with Soudal Sticky Foam Adhesive was hardly any different from this from a strength point of view. In fact you could argue that the aluminium foil is stronger than paper... What do you think?
Yes at the end of the day it's only as strong as the bond between the foil or paper and the gypsum beneath. The day you shouldn't dot and dab foil backed plasterboard. I guess because the bond of the foil is less than it is for the normal version and when you look at tests on RUclips people do with say grab adhesives and skirtings dishonest it takes a big chunk of plasterboard away when they pull it off which suggests the paper has a much better bond than the foil - which does make sense as the foil is very easy to peel off.
Not sure what I did wrong .. but I followed how I understood your guide (having never used foam adhesive before). I used Instastik, wet the wall and board (a full board of insulated plasterboard), then squirted a good bead all over the board.
By the time I'd finished squirting the foam onto the board (which I wasn't particularly slow doing), the first part of the foam had already dried. I touched it to check for your "Stringy" quality, but it was dry and not sticky at all .. there was no way it'd have stuck to a wall. I'm not quite sure what I did wrong really .. but It came off the insulation on the board really easy with a simple scraper .. and was fully dry all the way through the foam .. not sticky at all.
I'll perhaps have another go tomorrow once it's all dried out, and only wet the wall and not the board .. and spray the foam onto the board again. Maybe that'd slow the curing?
I've used loads of this to renovate my house. It's great stuff. Demsun P96 is great and used 20+ bottles of it. The cheapest i've found as places like screwfix/toolstation charge double is discount trade supplies (DTS) and great CS from them too.
I don't think I've used a metal back box anywhere where I've used insulated plaster board. Instead, I used a Crabtre dry lining box and also fit a piece of PU insulation behind the box. I've been using 50mm PU backed plasterboard from Kingspan for my refurb. I've used both board adhesive and foam at different times but had a lot of problems with conventional foam guns blocking and also with the foam not wanting to come out of the can at low temperatures.
Your video is really useful, thanks for sharing what you've learned, warts and all(!).
Plastic back boxes are junk that break when knocked. Would not use them at all.
@@jonathanbuzzard1376 never had one break yet. I'm not sure how they'd break without destroying the socket too. Sounds like you need Metalclad and conduit for your applications.
@@davidquirk8097 Plug something in and then give the cord a good yank, say a vacuum cleaner and you just extend the cord too much is one way. Have it behind a bed with something plugged in and push the bed up against it would be another. Stick them in wall with a push to exit button, they will last a couple of weeks tops in that application.
Soudal is very good, came with a Harvia chimney kit for my sauna.
Great video! I'm about to use foam to fix kerdi style boards to a thermalite very porus wall, what was your conclusion on priming? Is a quick coat of pva a decent enough solution? Planning to dowel to the wall for a strong fix. Thanks
Just wondering what fire regs would be concerning just using foam adhesive and not using mechanical fixings
Yeah, I though I had read somewhere that you had to use mechanical fixings in tandem?
Yeah it's definitely worth mentioning that if you use foam then building regs require a mechanical fixing as well. I'll still never go back to plasterboard adhesive though, it's such a slow, messy, back breaking product to use.
I think the fire regulations say that you need the mechanical Fixings in corridors and areas which are escape routes from a fire. However I bought a great big box of mechanical fixings ( bulk by a lot cheaper) so I used them everywhere in excess!
Would this method be better than using lime plaster for damp?
Have you got a link to the cavity closer you used. Would you know what can be used around a upvc window where one of the bricks is 1" short to go at the side of the window so now there's a gap and expanding foam will fall out because of the cavity.
Great timing 😊 plasterboarding soon
Thanks 👊
Which foam would you say is the best for plasterboard?
How does this compare to the hot glue you used for skirting before?
Thank you for this video. I was dreading the mess when fitting insulated plasterboard. This looks way better.
The hot glue is like a Dremel - great to have up your sleeve for occasional use, but it's quirky and it's application is rather limited. It goes off very quickly and you wouldn't be able to use it for a job like this.
Could it be used for shower panels to walls
Good timing - I'm just playing around with plasterboard adhesive. I was under the impression you had to add mechanical fixings after the product had gone off for fire safety ... I recently did a sheet to compare to a plasterer who used adhesive and the amount of wasted space in a small property using spray adhesive makes it worth while. Charlie, what are your thoughts on using it for insulated boards (12.5+50mm combined with mechanical fixings) ? These are pretty hefty - but I'd like to get them as flush as possible.
Yes I would definitely use foam for those insulated boards. That's the exact thickness I used upstairs. Not building regs compliant but it's transformed the heating of each room. And yes you're right, you do need mechanical fixings for fire regs. The beauty is you can spray behind all the electrical back boxes too. 👌
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for confirming. I've set myself the challenge of getting a better and more straight, plumb and even finish than the pros who finished one room using D&D. I'm highly confident that I'll achieve better (following some of your helpful hints from this & other videos).
Which foam was best to work with?
I actually really like this www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/everbuild-constructa-pro-adhesive-foam-conpro07 but Instastik is the market leader.
It can go in the brick wall without problem?
Thought you didn’t make enough of one of the biggest advantages of using foam over dot & dab. Draught proofing.
My house was built in the 90’s with an insulated slab dabbed inside 4”block 4”cavity 4”block wall. Cavity was pumped in 2007. Made no difference to the heating bill, or the comfort. Took the skirting (which was held on with 100mm steel nails into the inner leaf) off to replace the flooring & used foam to attach the new skirting. Reduced our heating bill by about 30%. Hot air was draughting up in the void where the dot & dab cement was keeping the insulation off the block wall.
Just a quick question, how do you keep boards straight if the foam is still expanding before it sets.
Game changer. Thanks for the vid.
Good work Charlie
Thanks for this! I thought you needed to use mechanical fixing as well as foam, although admittedly a lot fewer than you normally would. When I did underneath my bay window using this method I bunged a load of screws in too which helped draw it level. It's not going anywhere. However, unlike you I found leaving it to cure a little just meant it skinned over and didn't stick at all. I had to reapply and stick it instantly (this was using insta stick) to get a bond. From your video it seems perhaps I didn;t shake the can enough. Finally, I am wondering about using this for some overboarding of a ceiling, with mechanical fixings too.
It’s important to spray both surfaces with water-just damp, not soaking wet. Now, I’m not certain, but I suspect the sticky foam has something like a polyurethane adhesive in it-there are different varieties, of course. If you’ve used sticky foam before, you might’ve noticed they tell you to wet the surfaces before applying.
Why is that? Well, the moisture helps the polyurethane foam cure and expand properly, creating a strong bond. moisture is key to getting the best adhesion!
I am going to try insulate some rooms in my house soon but this is what is confusing . Is it ok to put metal screws in yes or no?
Im reading people saying they cause cold spots and allow condensation to gather. I read that that plastic mushroom type fixings are the way to go to fix to the wall?
@@stephensmyth6363 I have seen the plastic type used for external wall insulation. Indoors I don't think it's a major issue. You do not need that many screws in any case when using the insta-stick, it's just for fire safety to stop the boards popping off the wall. I used a ridiculous amount of plasterboard screws and I have had no issues with cold bridging on a north facing bay window. As Charlie says, use a good quality foaming gun, not the can applied stuff.
The other problem to watch out for is rust Spots. Use screws, like the afore mentioned plasterboard screws, which have a coating which prevents rusting and brown spots on your wall!
@@MrEspadrillesthank you
Wow, just about to fix some insulated tile backer boards to a masonary wall in my bathroom. After watching this my thoughts are expanding adhesive, then mechanical fixers (drill through once board fixed, push plugs through and then screw). This surface will be tiled. See any problems with the weight of tiles on the board pulling the spray adhesive? What is the strength vs normal powedered tile adhesive?
Yes I'd definitely use mechanical fixings particularly if you're tiling it. Strength wise I can't comment but I would think they're pretty similar
👍👍👍 Great information. Thank you Charlie
I have used foam to stick plasterboard on previous projects and it worked well. I’m currently doing a bedroom where the old brickwork is all over the place. I did try foam but couldn’t get the board’s vertical. In the end it was either batten out of use plasterboard adhesive. Any thoughts in this situation. Enjoy your videos always great tips and content.
Thanks Glynn. Yes if the wall is too irregular you do need to batten (or use adhesive) - battening like I did on that wall in the kitchen that I showed with spray foam behind it, or at the very least, batten out the deepest voids and foam the rest but battening the whole wall would be tidier. Doing it with tile adhesive is such a major job in that you need all the tools buckets etc, you might be better making a single frame of battens, offering that up, leveling it with glazing packers and a bit of foam behind and then screwing the plasterboard to that. Some would say, battening is a faff easier to just use adhesive. Whatever you find easier.
@@CharlieDIYte many thanks for your comments Charlie.
Do you think the Soudal plasterboard adhesive will be ok for sticking skirting boards on to plasterboard? I’m just finishing up installing our engineered wood flooring and it’s time to put the skirting boards back in. I mistakenly grabbed the plasterboard can instead of the standard PU adhesive 🤦♀️
Yes I'm sure it will. I think it just goes off quicker. I couldn't see any other difference.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks! I found your video just in the nick of time.
I've been using window frame fitting foam for sticking plasterboard and timber using a foam gun for 20 years. Way before this became popular.
Good work 👌
I had a big problem with the foam continuing to expand for some time after fitting the panel to the wall; bulges, and edges that really didn't want to line up any more. Is that a symptom of not letting it flash off for long enough? Got it done in the end, no fun though.
It's not letting it flash off and possibly putting too much on. It's definitely a knack and takes some practice.
Where do you get your insulated battens from please???? 5:04
I've never seen those before!! They would be amazing for the next stage of my house insulation!!
I was going to buy a load of 2X4s but those insulated battens would be far better I think!!
Have a search for making your own - I recently saw a video where someone glued PIR to plywood sheets then cut them into batten sizes. Seems like a great idea!
just finished insulating and boarding a victorian house no prep required, no battens, just stuck it to the wall, epicly useful product, imagine dot and dabing all your life only for this to come out 😹, in fairness tho, i would rather have bought my house in 1972 for a cheesburger and a handshake.
but the rise of technology marches on, im patiently waiting for wireless caulk that gap fills your entire house, you could even get alexa to do it for you😆
Love that 👌😉
But Charlie. Which was the best adhesive? Hard to know which product to go with.
I'm not sure retweets a conclusive answer on this. You can't go wrong with Instastik. I really liked Everbuild Constructa-Pro personally
Also I find the board has no gaps behind it as opposed to the dab adhesive,when you knock it it doesn’t sound as hollow
I’m about to do this but will be putting in pins as well
Good work Gary. Yes that'd be belt and braces. Concrete screws then you can just drill afterwards and for regs compliant.
@@CharlieDIYte Great job Charlie. What screws would you recommend? And what about cold bridging at screw points?
@@donmoloney7633 I wall use short anchors drill the hole and hammer them in. My main reason for this is which maybe Charlie can answer is does the foam not push the board out from the wall ?
What about places where you have to hang kitchen cabinets? Just take longer screws for cabinet attachment rails?
You could use corefix or rigifix fixings if you can screw into the brickwork behind. If the gap between plasterboard and wall is too much then a frame fixing would also work as these are longer, or better still set some battens behind the plasterboard.
I've seen joiners idea it for skirting and architrave
Foam also helps with sound insulation unlike D&D which amplifies the sound. I find with using foam, it works great if you use a large brush and a bucket of water and just go to town with wetting the wall down to remove any dust and dampen the surface of the bricks/blocks. The foam goes off much faster, you get a good bond and most of the water is used up by the foam, plus you have loads less water sitting on your walls as its surface water unlike D&D just sitting there soaking into the walls.
Great advice Steven. Thanks for sharing 👌
Yeah I treat it a little like contact adhesive. Needs that few minutes to tack over. Insta Stik is defo bringing up the rear for me as you didn't go into detail but Souda Bond Easy is the chief.
Great video!
Thanks Derek 👊
What's the blade you use to cut the foam please?
An old kitchen knife 😉
You're a mine Charlie, thanks
You're welcome mate 👊
Did you have any issues with compatibility of the insulated board and the foam. My building merchant offers xtratherm pir plasterboard but the manufacturer does not have any data on using foam, only dot and dab. I’m doing the inside of a brick cavity wall which has been prepped with green grit.
No I didn't and I wasn't that fussy about which foam I used. From memory SWIP do say which foam you shouldn't used with their battens though.
My main issue with foams, is fire safety. They burn like an Olympic torch and give off nasty nasty fumes. Same applies of cause to PIR back plaster board… I try and keep both away from sources of ignition
I wonder how long it will last as this foam stuff tends to degrade in time, maybe the walls will come loose ?
agreed
I got it wrong and stuck a sheet of plasterboard to the chimney breast. I'd miss measured and had to remove it... It was stuck on better than a DOB and dab plasterboard. I had a hell of a game getting it off...
it only degrades when exposed to UV light, and in applications such as shown in the video it obviously doesn't so will likely last forever.
I recently had to remove a huge blob of expanding foam left under the bathtub by previous owners, done almost 15 years ago. And it took some elbow grease as it was hard as a rock.
Great job
Does using foam adhesive do anything for sound transmission? I.e. would it help to reduce sound transmission through a party wall?
Yes, but their effect will be mainly determined by what type of Insulated boards you get. They will list the U (W/mK) value for insulation rating and the sound will be in dB (decibels). Insulated boards of different types have different ratings. Another good thing to check is the fire rating for the boards.
I like the foam stuff but plaster and drywall adhesive doesn't 'dry', it sets which is a simple way of saying it's a chemical reaction and the water is combined with the powder to become a different compound, so unless you make a complete mess of mixing it and use far too much water, there really shouldn't be much left to get trapped as moisture.
Yes that's true about plaster and plasterboard. The water content is actually chemically combined with the material. I think plasterboards are actually 20% water but they are not damp at all because the water is chemically combined. This is what makes plasterboard such a wonderful building material and practically fireproof because this water is released as the plasterboard is heated and and goes some way to suppressing the fire...
is it ok to use foam adhesive around hot water/gas pipes. i just insulated my walls and used no nonsense sticky foam adhesive foam around pipes. paranoid now😂
Yes I'm sure that's fine. I've seen no evidence of corrosion on the copper pipes I've sprayed foam around in the past.
I take your point...long term , we,ll see
I cannot stand instabond. I've used bondit megastik on pretty much an entire house. Selco ran out once and had to use instabond, it was awful. *such* a less forgiving experience. So far I've used megastik to add pir to my double skin walls, and plasterboard throughout,and it's been an absolute pleasure
Yes I think Instastik is overrated too.
Did you have any issues with compatibility of the insulated board and the foam. My building merchant offers xtratherm pir plasterboard but the manufacturer does not have any data on using foam, only dot and dab. I’m doing the inside of a brick cavity wall which has been prepped with green grit.
@@georgefisher6842 I didn't bother with insulated plasterboard, the price is ridiculous. I stuck celotex to the walls with foam, then plasterboard to that offset 300mm to the celotex. Then each sheet got 2 or 3 twistfix hammer in fixings. Used megastik for the lot. Found that giving the foam 7 minutes to firm up gave me a gap of about 5 or 6mm, but 5 mine gave me a much closer fit.
Any thoughts on foam product suitability for foil backed plasterboard?
No problems at all, I've just finished the upstairs floor of a 3 bed semi with 50mm foil backed PIR and 12.5mm board. I was sceptical at first but you wouldn't believe how well it bonds the heavy boards to the wall.
The only thing I'd say is you can't use driwall with foil backed boards. Not sure why but could be because the foil tears off too easily.. So I would have thought the same applies to foam.
The foil itself is bonded to foam if it's insulated plasterboard
@@gotmunchiez Interesting. Was the wall of this semi a cavity and what was the surface. Plaster/Plasterboard/Brick?
@@Stormin_MikeIt's a weird one, non-standard construction steel frame house faced in brick. Outer brick skin with galvanised steel core plasterboards screwed into gaps in the steel stanchions, the old screws are virtually just a friction fit.
I fixed with foam directly over the old boards, using long self drilling stainless screws to give a solid mechanical fixing into the steels.
You’re not getting the same depth of cavity with foam though are you? So heating will leak quicker no?
Wouldn't some grab adhesive such as Sticks like solve a lot of these issues. No need to damp the area, instant stick, can make adjustments instantly. The turbo stuff is almost instant, and will very strong after 15mins. Maybe cost would be more of an issue though.
I was literally just foaming some insulation to my garage this evening and learned a decent amount, like waiting 5 mins for it to go off a bit otherwise it sags.
I've always not liked the idea of dot and dab. Mainly as its a cold bridge and leaves a lot of void behind the plasterboard. This video was great. I'm insulating my bathroom soon and will 100% be using foam, this has just boosted my confidence. Thanks
I was thinking about banging 4 masonry screws in each corner for fire resistance purposes? Not sure if its even worth the effort though.
Are these foams fire resistant? Or at least non flammable ? I used a fire resistant one. Are they all non flammable by default ?
Definitely bang some concrete screws in for peace of mind. Not sure about the fire retardancy
Brilliant videos. Love your kichen. Can you do mine please!
Thanks. I might get killed by DIYfe - still so much to do 😉
👌🏻👍🏻
Nooice!!!!
Getting strong "Jack Nicholson from The Shining" vibes from the thumbnail of this vid
It's a pathetic attempt by me to make my thumbnails more interesting 🤦😉
All ways wanted to know how you plaster a steel joist. Know I know.
I had battens each side. The foam was probably unnecessary as I screwed to the battens but belt and braces.
I don't want to throw a spanner in your works mate but I'm an old school guy and it don't matter what nonsense they come out with these days,you can't beat the old fashion way of sand and cement to do your walls,I'm not knocking what your doin so don't think I am👍👍👍👍
The million dollar question is longevity. Will it all fall of in 30 or 50 years time, because at that point the savings are for naught.
I'd definitely worry about how long it takes to offgas while it sets.
"Never foam alone!" It's a niche quote....but if you get it I'll be impressed
Ha!
My dream...my nightmare! 😂
Peep Show. Probably Dobby? after Mark had been made redundant from JLB
Another good tip when installing a new canister of foam to your gun, do it inside a black bin bag bin liner! You can occasionally have an accident and the connection doesn't get made properly and you get foam squirting out everywhere! If you do it inside a black bin bag there's less mist to clean up!
@@joemorris1282 hahah nailed it mate 🤣
I imagine 50% of the now is now made of adhesive :P
Where are you getting insta for £7.75!!!!
you look insane in the picture
Terrible isn't it. I was told my thumbnails look washed out so it's a pathetic attempt to make them more interesting to try and bag a few more views. I tell you, being a creator is enough to actually make me insane 😉
I'm still skeptical....
It'll degrade in 10 years and all start falling off, whilst giving out micro-plastics into your air at the same time.
Watched first half of the video. Didn't have a chance to see WHAT the glue looks like (picture on the can). Gave up
The details are all in the Description
Foam between walls scares me after hearing about the insulation lofts that became unsellable.
Spray foam insulation and foam adhesive are different, you won't have the same problem because it doesn't absolutely cover every last inch of surface