Thought I left this comment last night, but after watching about 40 other videos and dialing up three electrician friends trying to find out why my GFCI would not reset, I came across your video last night. Let's just say that your approach help me figure out my problem. It's too embarrassing to say what it was, but you are the best!!!!
This is great. I’ve watched MANY RUclips videos and this one is the best on how to replace a GFCI outlet 💡. She explains in detail, why and how the outlet is to properly be installed. Why electrical tape is being used, because of the metal box. The newer homes have plastic boxes. Also I didn’t know that GFCI outlets self test 😳. Ignore the negative comments. You’ve been so helpful!
While everyone learns in ways that work best for them, I found that the easiest way for me to remember where the wires go is that the colored screws are usually brass - not gold and that black and brass both start with "B" (like green & ground both do also) so they get connected as you showed (unless otherwise specified in some special circumstance) leaving the white (neutral) to connect with the chrome screws.
Greetings. Even though I've done these years ago, we all tend to forget little things. This video by far is the easiest to follow and understand that I have watched. It's very professional and edited. Well done. Thank you.
Best video I’ve seen, thank you very much for the concise directions. Love the idea of using the electrical tape the way you did. Definitely makes sense. Never seen an electrician use tape that way.
You actually read people's comments. I like your video it explained things very well. I now have confidence to do the job on my own. Good job. Thank you
Thanks Chuck! I'm glad you found it helpful and have the confidence to do the job. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. It tells RUclips the video is helpful.
Thank you so much for posting this excellent video. If I ever have to replace a GFCI outlet, I will come back to re-watch this and make sure I am clear on identifying and working with the load and line wires. You are consistent in your videos: you connect the ground wire first, then the neutral wire, then the hot wire. I will follow the same practice if I have to do this in the future. (I think I will get the opportunity.) Thank you again for a very helpful training video.
Beyond THANK YOU for creating and sharing this video. A tiny spring and reset button on bathroom GFCI popped out during a heavy rain. Outdoor GFCI is on the same circuit. It is under the soffit and inside a covered plastic box, rain getting in the box is the only thing I can think of that may have caused it. I got a new outlet (twin to the one that popped) and have watched a number of videos of how to replace it. There was either too much "electrician talk" and/or the person had their fingers in front of what they were doing. Am going to tackle installing the replacement this weekend. Thanks to your thorough, but not too complex explanation of what you were doing and why. I could also clearly see what you were doing as you explained it.
Very good video. Today I learned my GFCI self-tests. The worse thing about installing these is cramming all the wires back into the receptacles (it didn’t help that I used UF wire).
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I’ve swapped out outlets before, but I love how you explained it and I watched the whole thing. I’m glad I did, marking the line wires is a fantastic idea (I haven’t Daisy chained any yet). I was hoping for some details on gfci and non grounded outlets. I’m prepping to swap out a two prong for a three but I’m not ready to run a ground yet (I feel unsafe with the outlet as is, as I swear it gives off something that I can’t explain). I’ve watched the videos before but was looking for a new one when I came across you video. I will be taking your tips to heart when I do move forward.
That's great that you are taking on this project and learning a lot in the process! It's smart to do your research. I appreciate your complement. Thanks!
I've found that the ground wire coming out on these GFCI receptacles is an issue, it's better to wrap a j-hook around the screw. You said the receptacle was upgraded from a 15 amp GFCI. A 20 amp receptacle can only be used on a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge wire, can't tell if that's the case here. However, a 15 amp GFCI receptacle would be fine here regardless of whether it's a 15 or 20 amp circuit. It's exactly the same thing, but without the T-slot, and will save a few bucks.
Wrapping your ground wire around the ground screw is a good and safe tip. The wiring in this kitchen was upgraded to 12 gauge wire so new 20 amp receptacles were installed. Good advice Ted :)
I know I probably just missed seeing something, but it appeared as though there was only 1 bare ground wire in the box? I would think there are 2 bare copper wires and nut or wago with a lead out for the receptacle green screw. I usually cut back and restrip the leads going into the receptacle, never know that the previous installer might not have knicked the leads.
@@DaruDhillonI think that you're correct in using a 20 amp GFCI, the CEC requires 20 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits is my understanding now. The NEC, USA electrical code, allows 15 or 20 amp duplex receptacles on 20 amp circuits.
@@SEaudiofanCanadian metal boxes have 2 ground screws, so one wire terminates on one screw and the other one wraps around the other screw and the end of the wire connects to the ground screw on the device. I believe that is the way this was done.
Being a retired electrician I also used to wrap electrical tape around GFCI receptacles to keep them somewhat away from metal outlet boxes, until I found that ideal makes "rubber Bands' to go around the receptacles and is much faster and easier if you install lots of them.
I am no electrician, but I thought that if the breaker was turned off at the panel that there will not be any power present at that receptacle. At 3:45 you start by saying you turned off power (shut the breaker switch off I assume) and proceed to identify the hot line wire. What am I not getting? I would think that you would need the breaker on to be able to find the hot line wire. Please explain.
I believe I misspoke. I meant to say the power was on. The voltage tester is beeping and I’m saying the wire is hot. If the wire is hot and voltage tester is sounding the alarm like in the video the power is on.
@@DaruDhillon Thank you for clearing that up. I know just enough to be dangerous. Your video was very helpful in explaining Line and Load lines and how to find the Line wire.
Hi, to start wiring your power needs to be off. To determine your line wire the power needs to be turned back on. As a safety measure you can put wire nuts on the wires to be safe. Once located turn the power back off. Check that it is off and resume wiring. Thanks for the question.
Before you start you should test the circuit to be sure it’s active if you can, so when you turn it off you’re sure your tester is working properly! I had a bad tester and ended up frying a good screwdriver, and I was so glad it had a proper electricians rubber handle!
At first glance it seems that this is an ungrounded circuit, at some time upgraded to a 3-prong GFCI. In that case, at least in the USA, it needs to be labelled "no equipment ground", no? And also, in that case, does bonding the box do any good? Or is it wired with old BX cable and there IS a ground? Thanks
The house was recently re-wired with 12/2 gauge wire. I wanted to upgrade the GFCIs for safety. All wiring here needs to be grounded to pass our electrical inspections. It’s always important to check that your outlets are grounded. Thanks for your sharing your experience in the USA about labelling and safety. It's appreciated and helpful!
@@DaruDhillon There's no ground wires visible in the video. There's only one bare wire from the box to the device. If you have 12/2 in there, which in the USA means two wires plus a ground, one would expect to at least see the two ground wires pigtailed in the box somewhere. If this is not the USA, how is that circuit grounded? Is there a bonding wire like we used to have here with BX metallic cable? Just curious.
Thanks for an excellent detailed educational video. A big help for me. I did not know about the electrical tape extra protection trick. I am doing that today, after seeing your video. Great fix. Carry On Madam.
Great video! You explain this content cleanly! You should consider upgrading the screws type outlet videos to explain that torque values are provided on the box for the screws. It is surprising how much force is required using the torque screwdrivers. It makes the argument for using the wago style outlets instead, such as the one in the newer video you have posted.
Thanks for this. My only question is for the orientation of exposed wire you're wrapping around the terminal screws. A lot of videos I've watched lately suggest the "hook" should always point up to avoid the smooshing side effect pushing copper upward toward other terminal components. But it looks like the receptacle you're using might have molded channels to keep the wire from doing this? Thanks for any insight.
There is one GFCI receptacle that has been my favorite for at least 4 years. It is a GFCI and AFCI receptacle. So it will do both. So, for my work, I mostly prefer GFCI/AFCI combination receptacles except outside.
@@DaruDhillon I don't know if I told you or not, but I added you to the list of 'go to' channels here on the tube for reference. I listed my favorite informational channels and you just made the list.
Don't trust the original one was installed properly. placing tape on the hot wires is a good idea, but also turn the breaker back on and verify it is correct. The lady mis-spoke she said off and then test. She meant on.
Thank you for explain all about the GFCI receptacle. I have an unusual question to ask please. I had plugged in a full size freezer into an outlet in the garage. The next morning the freezer was working fine. I come back a week later and the freezer is not working and nothing else on that same circuit is working either. The breaker did not trip and so I have no idea what breaker goes to that one non working outlet. There happens to be a GFCI outlet in another place in the garage but that works fine, ( not the cause of the problem, I believe.) checking all the other GFCI outlets, outlets in the house and there just so happens that on the other end of the house in the kitchen there is one GFCI outlet not working but other GFCI outlets in the kitchen work fine. By any chance do you have any idea why the circuit breaker did not trip? The freezer manual did require a 15 amp circuit breaker which all the circuit breakers are. I am not concerned about getting power to the freezer but 8 do want to get the other items on that circuit to work again. Any ideas as to how I solve this Dilemma?
Hi Joe, a GFCI receptacle will work without a ground wire attached and can be tested on the outlet face but not on an GFCI testing device. The GFCI will provide ground fault protection when installed with 2-wire (hot and neutral).
While you have the cover plate off the receptacle, write the panel circuit breaker number on the back of the plate with a marker. The trick is to remember it's there next time. For me, anyway, what?
Technically by the NEC 70 code and manufacturer at time of installation always. Don't believe there is a requirement to periodically re-check them. Having replaced many old switches and receptacles can tell you many times they are lose. Most probably not torqued when installed, because it's only a switch or receptacle.
So what is the procedure when you are changing a switch/ plug outlet? I thought I can do it and turns out I didn't. Also why in some kitchen outlets is there 2 hot wires 1 red 1 black.? Any advice
Red can be one of two things- either a second hot wire for a 240V outlet, such as for an electric stove (black to white will be 120V and red to white will be 120V, but red to black will be 240V). The other possibility is it's a switched hot for a light. The black wire will be the always-on hot, the red will be the switched hot to the lighting fixture.
@@scotttodd3506Red can be one of three things. If it's an older home before GFCI's were required, it's likely to be a multi wire branch circuit with a shared neutral. The upper and lower sockets will be on different circuits. An electric stove usually requires a 50 amp 240v circuit and receptacle, NEMA 6-50R or 14-50R. The 14-50R has a connection for a neutral wire. These are single receptacles for dedicated circuits.
@@scotttodd3506 They can be used to add a 3 plug outlet to an old house that only has 2 wires, no ground. It doesn't offer ground protection from lightening strikes etc, but does offer protection from internal shorting in appliance. AND gives you an option to plug 3 prong plugs into. Otherwise one has to use those adapters at Home Depot that you are not supposed to use. Austin code allows this if you put a sticker on plug: "this GFCI outlet is not grounded"
You still need to wire line to line, neutral to neutral. The test button may not work, but the GFCI should still work. You should find a different way to test it just to be sure.
Hello Daru , Whenever I replace outlets and switches , This is what I do as standard procedure , First I'll cut a strip of rubber splicing tape and cover the screws on the hot side and finish wrap it with electrical tape , The splicing tape provides a more safe cushion of insulation and you don't need as much tape to wrap it with , because rubber splicing tape has more thickness than regular electrical tape I only use one brand of electrical tape and that's Scotch because I've seen other electrical tapes begin to peel off over time ,
@@DaruDhillon Thank you so much , I am very strict about electrical safety because when I was 10 years old , I was almost electrocuted by a defective floor lamp and our neighbor who's an electrician showed me what happened and taught me some very important lessons about electrical safety and ever since I was little I've always had a big interest in electricity Even though I went through a bad experience Some good came out of it to always put safety first , Such as making sure the power is off and locking out and tagging out the circuit breaker or disconnect switch before working on it , Next is doing it right the first time , To meet The National Electrical Code specifications and I use only the best quality materials I can find , Top quality materials play a very important role in electrical safety as well , Plus I am very strict against cutting corners , All people who do their own electrical work should go to their local electrical supply and pick up a circuit breaker lockout along with a warning tag and padlock because lockout tagout is just as important at home as it is in the workplace , In everything you do , There is absolutely no such thing as being too careful , I love to share my tips with others to keep them safe and to have a safe and reliable electrical system
@@DaruDhillon Hello Daru , I love the design of these outlets with the lever connectors to make installation a breeze and especially the safety designed into them , No worry about any connections grounding out against the box and I plan to use them on my next electrical job , Since we've been touching base about electrical safety , There's one very important thing I wanted to touch base with you about , When you get a chance , Go on RUclips and type in Federal Pacific circuit breakers investigation finds decades of danger , NBC Bay area Check out the video and I hope to God You and your friends and family do not have a Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel in your home ,
@@DaruDhillon Hello Daru , Sorry I hit the button too soon , Since we've been touching base on electrical safety , I hope to God that you and your friends and family do not have a Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel in their home , When you get a chance , Go on RUclips and type in Federal Pacific circuit breakers investigation finds decades of danger NBC Bay area Check out the video , and check your circuit breaker panel , If you have a Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel in your home , IT MUST BE REPLACED IMMEDIATELY Because with these breakers and panels More than 80% of the breakers did not trip when there was an overload and even worse A short circuit , Federal Pacific is no longer in business but there's millions of those panels still out there and If you have a Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel in your home , You have no electrical protection because of the high failure rate Independent lab tests shows that more than 80% of the breakers did not trip Federal Pacific had knowingly and illegally put the UL stamp on their breakers and panels and let them out on the market So please check out the video to see how dangerous these breakers and panels are and to check your breaker panel as well and there's more videos about Federal Pacific circuit breaker panels , Just looking out for your safety and I'm trying to get the word out about these breakers and panels how dangerous they are and to get them replaced immediately
@@DaruDhillonHello Daru , I want to share with you about why GFCI receptacles and circuit breakers are so important and you posting videos of how to install GFCI receptacles is just as important , Last month I saw a news article about an electrical accident that happened in Logansport Indiana There was a group of 5 swimming in the in ground pool , There was a sump pump in the pool and what happened is when they set the pool ladder in place , The ladder pinched the cord to the sump pump and severed the cord Electrifying the water and shocked everybody in the pool , The father got the worst of it , Luckily somebody outside the pool saw what was happening and got the power off All the people in the pool survived including the father and all will make a full recovery , Obviously the receptacle the pump was plugged into was not GFCI protected , All electrical equipment outside , Especially around swimming pools must be GFCI protected , Lights , Pumps and all other equipment that uses electricity , They were extremely lucky to have all survived , Had the equipment been GFCI protected , The shock would have lasted 1/40th of a second , Long before it would be lethal , The report said that police are investigating the accident , I have a feeling that after the investigation , The homeowner is likely to be charged in court for not having the equipment GFCI protected Another thing is If one person died of electrocution , The homeowner would likely be charged with manslaughter I'll bet the homeowner will be charged in court and be slapped with a stiff fine Thank god they all survived with no serious injuries This is a perfect example of what can happen cutting corners to save a few bucks , Especially when it comes to electricity , Cutting corners is definitely not worth the risk , 5 people could have very easily lost their lives but thank God somebody was there to get the power off , The number one thing is , If an electrical accident happens is GET THE POWER CUT OFF AND NEVER TOUCH A PERSON IN CONTACT WITH A LIVE WIRE , YOU CAN BE ELECTROCUTED RIGHT ALONG WITH THE PERSON As a rule of thumb , Never take chances with electricity , Always make sure the power is off using a voltage tester and lock out Tag out the circuit breaker before working on it Remember in everything you do ALWAYS PUT SAFETY FIRST !!!!
Definitely you don't want to have a refrigerator plugged into a GFCI receptacle because it can trip just from high humidity and all the food inside could be ruined If it is not reset promptly , So replace it with a standard receptacle but make absolutely sure it is properly grounded
Great video, but T-slot is not for tamper resistant. It is for appliances that require 20 amp circuits and have a different plug so they cant be plugged into a 15 amp circuit. Someone commented on using a 15 amp GFCI on either a 15 or 20 amp circuit which is allowed but should be based on saving a few bucks. Kitchen countertops are required to be supplied by 2 20 amp circuits.
US more specifically NEC 70 allows it if adopted as law by states or towns don't take exception to it. Must also have more than one receptacle on circuit or it is required to be 20 amps.
@@SRCardow1 A duplex receptacle is 2 receptacles, so a 15 amp duplex receptacle is permitted on a 20 amp circuit, regardless if there are any other outlets on the circuit or not. If an individual branch (dedicated) circuit is required, the receptacle must be a single receptacle, 15 amp on a 15 amp circuit and 20 amp on a 20 amp circuit, to be code compliant.
In electrical black is power, the ultimate. In sports gold is ultimate, the best. Going for the gold is a sports saying that works for me as an easy reminder. 🥇🏆
@@DaruDhillon... only in America could a black wire denote power/live ... 🙄😂 In DC circuits, red is positive and black is negative so why not carry that convention through to AC ?? Here in europe, we used to have that convention years ago and for some reason they changed it to brown for live, blue for neutral and green/yellow for ground... pretty random colour-coding there too... 🤔 The way I memorise it is... The Brown bear will bite you..🐶 Blue with the cold... ❄ And the earth is green , of course ...🌍 😎👍☘️🍺
@@peterfitzpatrick7032You can't really compare AC to DC in this regard. In America the red and black in AC are both hot and alternate between positive (power in) and negative (current return). This applies to 240v circuits. In 120v circuits black is power in and white is current return. The black wire alternates between positive and negative and the white wire is the mid point and is always held to 0 volts, but carries the return current. The white wire represents the center tap of the transformer secondary windings or the mid point.
Don't concern yourself with memorization, but rather educate yourself on basic residential wiring and theory. It's not complicated and will make you safer and aware. It should become as obvious as what shoe goes on what foot. You should always verify that the black wire is the hot wire, you never know who worked on the wiring previously and it could be miswired.
I would typically recommend that you install/use 15A GFCI and regular 15A receptacles on any 20A kitchen/bath circuit in place of 20A versions. It actually enhances protection (and is permitted by code)... you can only plug in devices that require 15A or less and never any device that requires 20A. That way, you never overload any single outlet, nor the circuit itself. I can't think of any kitchen/bath device that would require 20A anyway and if they do, you'd be better off with a dedicated circuit for it.
You probably would not be able to reset the GFCI. In a regular receptacle, the plugged in item would still work, but it would be a shock hazard. Normally the power coming in stops at a switch, start button, etc., before entering the electrical system of the appliance, lamp, or tool. If the wires are reversed, the power goes through the equipment before the switch, so if there's a metal case and the live wire contacts it, and if there's no ground it could result in a shock or electrocution, even with the power off.
when they turned my garage into a spare room, they never put in any gfci. This includes a kitchenette and bathroom area with shower. There was no outlets in the bathroom, but one right outside that I'd be forced to use at times. So I made it GFCI and I feel much safer now! It was super simple to change a regular outlet to GFCI. Now when I shave I don't fear electrocution!
Well done! It’s so important to have working GFCIs in bathrooms, kitchens or near water. Everyone’s life is valuable and it’s a simple DIY that will give you peace of mind. Well done! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. It’s important!
@@nedmilburn where I am you are required to have GFCI receptacles. I would check your local electrical code to see what is required in your area. The existing electrical is fairly recent.
Your box should be bonded to the ground and then a pig tail from the GFCI to the ground and box. But the yoke should be grounded since there is a ground, and the box will then be grounded when it's all put back together. It's just best to bond the box itself though as well.
Maybe already addressed, but if not, you did not show ground in the box & only conneted one ground to receptacle. You need both grounds from each wire are pigtailed , with one going out to metal box & the other to the receptacle. Only one wire per screw. So so all is grounded. So total 4 wires in pigtail. Now if too crowded, just swap the metal box with deep plastic. Also, never just swap 15amp for 20amp receptacle unless 12ga & 20amp breaker.
Thanks for mentioning that. The box and all wires in the box are grounded at the back. Appreciate your comment and others. I’ve shown this close up of the back of the box ground screw in my latest video on smart dimmer installation. I’m always taking notes on your suggestions. Thank-you!
You mentioned that some GFI outlets self-test every 15 minutes, and some self-test every 90 minutes, and that we should "keep that in mind" when getting new ones, but you never explained why. Is there an advantage or disadvantage either way?
It’s up to homeowners to decide which they’d prefer. I buy them because they are safer because they are tested often. That might not be an issue for other people.
@@DaruDhillon - Thanks for the response. If it's just a preference, I think I'd rather go with the 90 minute test. If something cycles that often and regularly, more cycles = more opportunities for something to go wrong. It would be interesting to know what sort of long term test failures each type experiences.
@unclerichard6729. I hope folks ignore your rude and unnecessary comment. This video contains solid information and is better quality than many other videos on this subject. You must have a chip on your shoulder.
Torque requirements are listed by some manufactures. They are often included to prevent liability, to ensure proper installation (which is important) and to prevent poor installation.
@DaruDhillon Agreed, which is why I am curious as to why no one ever mentions them in their videos. I've seen many other videos similar to yours and no one even mentions the subject.
“out” is pronounced “out”, not “oot”. 😂 Canadian, eh? Nicely done, ma’am! Gotta ask though- why does an electrician where her metal wedding band when doing electrical work? Be safe!
My husband just put one in the kitchen but nothing will plug into it, can opener, etc. What is wrong? This is crazy, he's trying to force a plug in it, and it won't go in. WTH could be wrong? HELP
Oh, I did not know GFI can do self-testing? I thought the only testing is to push the TEST button? It is my personal opinion that there is NO need for ground wire if you have GFI. Because GFI will cut power if there is a milliamp leakage. That is like put a safety net to catch someone falling 0.001mm distance.
I’m glad you learned something new that’s great! Thanks for sharing your perspective. To pass our electrical inspections we need to ground GFCIs and all receptacles. The inspectors will check for that with the tester, like in the video. I appreciate their attention to detail.
Actually 4 to 6mA. They are supposed to work without ground, however, the test button may not work because there is no way to leak the 4mA test current.
I must have missed HOW to determine which is line and which is load side! She labeled them BEFORE looking at the device. One of mine had line on the bottom. Not a fan of bending solid wire with bare hands and NOT using needle-nose pliers (or another tool). Wire into the RIGHT-hand side of the screw terminal? Should be on the left, and (preferably) curved to have greater contact area. Overall. I wasn't thrilled with this technique OR "teaching" style. If you are reading this BEFORE you install or replace a GFCI, I would suggest watching at LEAST one or two more! Stay safe!
Why wrapping the terminals? What exactly do you need an extra layer of protection from? You're not working live, and the receptacle can't move once installed. If something contacts those terminals you really bodged something up. I use metallic conduit and boxes pretty much exclusively and i don't understand how you could ever have a short to the terminals. Around here wrapping in tape is seen as hacky poor workmanship. You should probably spend that time stripping fresh wire and not reusing the oxidized portion. Maybe you scratched enough oxide off when you reinserted them to make good contact. Maybe. Also what was that grounding situation? Couldn't really see it that well but there probably should be more than 1 ground conductor in there.
@@DaruDhillon I guess tape is rated for insulating, we just don't really use it for that. What about the load side receptacles of the GFCI? Even things like surge protectors won't work without an equipment ground. Technically the wipers on the gfci mounting screw will bond the box so that much was fine.
Wrapping the terminals prevent them from touching the metal box and short circuiting if you handle the outlet while power is on. If your workflow prevents this from ever happening, they don't hurt anything either. Why is that poor workmanship?
Thank you for this. Single mom, afraid of electrical, and desperately needed my garage to close. This video saved my day and my wallet!
Being afraid of electricity in not a bad thing, it can save your life.
Thought I left this comment last night, but after watching about 40 other videos and dialing up three electrician friends trying to find out why my GFCI would not reset, I came across your video last night. Let's just say that your approach help me figure out my problem. It's too embarrassing to say what it was, but you are the best!!!!
Thanks! We all have those moments when we’re tired or we’re doing too much. Be kind to yourself. ❤️
I think you reveal what was the problem. You might save others from the same problem. Sounds like it was something simple.
@djohn-xe8vk probably got the hots and neutrals cris crossed. I did that by accident wiring in mine and it would not reset.
@@djohn-xe8vk probably swapped load and line.
This is great. I’ve watched MANY RUclips videos and this one is the best on how to replace a GFCI outlet 💡. She explains in detail, why and how the outlet is to properly be installed. Why electrical tape is being used, because of the metal box. The newer homes have plastic boxes. Also I didn’t know that GFCI outlets self test 😳.
Ignore the negative comments. You’ve been so helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate that!
While everyone learns in ways that work best for them, I found that the easiest way for me to remember where the wires go is that the colored screws are usually brass - not gold and that black and brass both start with "B" (like green & ground both do also) so they get connected as you showed (unless otherwise specified in some special circumstance) leaving the white (neutral) to connect with the chrome screws.
Greetings. Even though I've done these years ago, we all tend to forget little things. This video by far is the easiest to follow and understand that I have watched. It's very professional and edited. Well done. Thank you.
Best video I’ve seen, thank you very much for the concise directions. Love the idea of using the electrical tape the way you did. Definitely makes sense. Never seen an electrician use tape that way.
Electricians I’ve worked with do it but not all do. I like it too. Thanks Paul!
It’s better to do it if the box is metal
You actually read people's comments. I like your video it explained things very well. I now have confidence to do the job on my own. Good job.
Thank you
Thanks Chuck! I'm glad you found it helpful and have the confidence to do the job. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. It tells RUclips the video is helpful.
Thank you so much for posting this excellent video. If I ever have to replace a GFCI outlet, I will come back to re-watch this and make sure I am clear on identifying and working with the load and line wires. You are consistent in your videos: you connect the ground wire first, then the neutral wire, then the hot wire. I will follow the same practice if I have to do this in the future. (I think I will get the opportunity.) Thank you again for a very helpful training video.
@@robertcochran7103 Glad you find them helpful Robert. Thank-you!
Beyond THANK YOU for creating and sharing this video.
A tiny spring and reset button on bathroom GFCI popped out during a heavy rain. Outdoor GFCI is on the same circuit. It is under the soffit and inside a covered plastic box, rain getting in the box is the only thing I can think of that may have caused it.
I got a new outlet (twin to the one that popped) and have watched a number of videos of how to replace it. There was either too much "electrician talk" and/or the person had their fingers in front of what they were doing.
Am going to tackle installing the replacement this weekend. Thanks to your thorough, but not too complex explanation of what you were doing and why. I could also clearly see what you were doing as you explained it.
Awesome Rebecca! I love that you are doing this yourself. Sounds like you’ve done your research and are good to go.
Wow, very nice demonstration. I can understand the instructions. You did a way better job demonstration than all the others. Well done 👏
Hi Oscar, thanks! Good to see that you’re installing GFCIs on your own.
@@DaruDhillon With your help, yes.
Very good video. Today I learned my GFCI self-tests. The worse thing about installing these is cramming all the wires back into the receptacles (it didn’t help that I used UF wire).
Glad it helped. I know what you mean the box is full of wires with little room.
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Excellent Video. Straight to the point. What a Good Teacher! Great Job.
Appreciate it Chris, thanks!
Beautiful, professional, smart lady. Good job. Thanks.
Thanks, back you you!
The best video that truly helped me out. You explained everything to a T. I give you two thumbs up 👍👍
Thanks for the review! I’m glad you found it helpful and were able to do your project. That’s awesome!
I’ve swapped out outlets before, but I love how you explained it and I watched the whole thing. I’m glad I did, marking the line wires is a fantastic idea (I haven’t Daisy chained any yet).
I was hoping for some details on gfci and non grounded outlets. I’m prepping to swap out a two prong for a three but I’m not ready to run a ground yet (I feel unsafe with the outlet as is, as I swear it gives off something that I can’t explain).
I’ve watched the videos before but was looking for a new one when I came across you video. I will be taking your tips to heart when I do move forward.
That's great that you are taking on this project and learning a lot in the process! It's smart to do your research. I appreciate your complement. Thanks!
I've found that the ground wire coming out on these GFCI receptacles is an issue, it's better to wrap a j-hook around the screw. You said the receptacle was upgraded from a 15 amp GFCI. A 20 amp receptacle can only be used on a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge wire, can't tell if that's the case here. However, a 15 amp GFCI receptacle would be fine here regardless of whether it's a 15 or 20 amp circuit. It's exactly the same thing, but without the T-slot, and will save a few bucks.
Wrapping your ground wire around the ground screw is a good and safe tip. The wiring in this kitchen was upgraded to 12 gauge wire so new 20 amp receptacles were installed. Good advice Ted :)
I know I probably just missed seeing something, but it appeared as though there was only 1 bare ground wire in the box? I would think there are 2 bare copper wires and nut or wago with a lead out for the receptacle green screw. I usually cut back and restrip the leads going into the receptacle, never know that the previous installer might not have knicked the leads.
@@DaruDhillonI think that you're correct in using a 20 amp GFCI, the CEC requires 20 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits is my understanding now. The NEC, USA electrical code, allows 15 or 20 amp duplex receptacles on 20 amp circuits.
@@SEaudiofanCanadian metal boxes have 2 ground screws, so one wire terminates on one screw and the other one wraps around the other screw and the end of the wire connects to the ground screw on the device. I believe that is the way this was done.
Being a retired electrician I also used to wrap electrical tape around GFCI receptacles to keep them somewhat away from metal outlet boxes, until I found that ideal makes "rubber Bands' to go around the receptacles and is much faster and easier if you install lots of them.
I appreciate you sharing your experience. Sounds like a great time saving idea. I hadn’t heard of them. Thanks!
I am no electrician, but I thought that if the breaker was turned off at the panel that there will not be any power present at that receptacle. At 3:45 you start by saying you turned off power (shut the breaker switch off I assume) and proceed to identify the hot line wire. What am I not getting? I would think that you would need the breaker on to be able to find the hot line wire. Please explain.
I believe I misspoke. I meant to say the power was on. The voltage tester is beeping and I’m saying the wire is hot. If the wire is hot and voltage tester is sounding the alarm like in the video the power is on.
@@DaruDhillon Thank you for clearing that up. I know just enough to be dangerous. Your video was very helpful in explaining Line and Load lines and how to find the Line wire.
Great video, can u plz make video as how to wire with one set of wire black, white and ground
I am didn’t even know that these outlets self test itself. Love ❤ ur videos.
Thanks, I’m glad you think so. I felt the same way when I learned this too.
Hello, thank you for the video. One question....at the 3:46 mark did you mean to say you turned the power off? Should that be turned the power on?
Hi, to start wiring your power needs to be off. To determine your line wire the power needs to be turned back on. As a safety measure you can put wire nuts on the wires to be safe. Once located turn the power back off. Check that it is off and resume wiring. Thanks for the question.
Thank you for clarifying....again....great video
@@davewhalen5981 Thanks Dave. Happy to clarify.
Before you start you should test the circuit to be sure it’s active if you can, so when you turn it off you’re sure your tester is working properly! I had a bad tester and ended up frying a good screwdriver, and I was so glad it had a proper electricians rubber handle!
@@rogerhonacki5610 thanks for your input.
At first glance it seems that this is an ungrounded circuit, at some time upgraded to a 3-prong GFCI. In that case, at least in the USA, it needs to be labelled "no equipment ground", no? And also, in that case, does bonding the box do any good? Or is it wired with old BX cable and there IS a ground? Thanks
The house was recently re-wired with 12/2 gauge wire. I wanted to upgrade the GFCIs for safety. All wiring here needs to be grounded to pass our electrical inspections. It’s always important to check that your outlets are grounded. Thanks for your sharing your experience in the USA about labelling and safety. It's appreciated and helpful!
@@DaruDhillon There's no ground wires visible in the video. There's only one bare wire from the box to the device. If you have 12/2 in there, which in the USA means two wires plus a ground, one would expect to at least see the two ground wires pigtailed in the box somewhere. If this is not the USA, how is that circuit grounded? Is there a bonding wire like we used to have here with BX metallic cable? Just curious.
Thanks for an excellent detailed educational video. A big help for me. I did not know about the electrical tape extra protection trick. I am doing that today, after seeing your video. Great fix. Carry On Madam.
Glad it was helpful! We do that here for metal boxes. Plastic you’re ok. Thanks for watching!
Great video! You explain this content cleanly! You should consider upgrading the screws type outlet videos to explain that torque values are provided on the box for the screws. It is surprising how much force is required using the torque screwdrivers. It makes the argument for using the wago style outlets instead, such as the one in the newer video you have posted.
Thanks I appreciate your suggestion there’s a lot to know about torque.
I think woman can rock the electric world, what a great video.
What a great vibe! Women can definitely do this and more. Thanks for sharing your positivity.
The only concerned is how the woman bend the pipes, I mean the electrical pipes?
Simple and easy to understand. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this. My only question is for the orientation of exposed wire you're wrapping around the terminal screws. A lot of videos I've watched lately suggest the "hook" should always point up to avoid the smooshing side effect pushing copper upward toward other terminal components. But it looks like the receptacle you're using might have molded channels to keep the wire from doing this? Thanks for any insight.
There is one GFCI receptacle that has been my favorite for at least 4 years. It is a GFCI and AFCI receptacle. So it will do both. So, for my work, I mostly prefer GFCI/AFCI combination receptacles except outside.
Thank you very much. This is my project tomorrow.
Do they make GFCI outlets withe the levers like you shown on your video about New Electrical Outlet Installation?
That would be great but they don’t yet. If that changes we’ll keep you posted! Thanks for the question.
@@DaruDhillon I don't know if I told you or not, but I added you to the list of 'go to' channels here on the tube for reference. I listed my favorite informational channels and you just made the list.
@@MoonbeamAcres Thank you for that. I'm in good company. All the best to you!
Very helpful and informative. I really appreciate you making these video how to's.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job, thank you was very easy for me!
Great to hear Chris thanks! That’s awesome that you did it!
Don't trust the original one was installed properly. placing tape on the hot wires is a good idea, but also turn the breaker back on and verify it is correct. The lady mis-spoke she said off and then test. She meant on.
Hi Dave, thanks for sharing your tip! Always good to double check.
Thank you for explain all about the GFCI receptacle. I have an unusual question to ask please. I had plugged in a full size freezer into an outlet in the garage. The next morning the freezer was working fine. I come back a week later and the freezer is not working and nothing else on that same circuit is working either. The breaker did not trip and so I have no idea what breaker goes to that one non working outlet. There happens to be a GFCI outlet in another place in the garage but that works fine, ( not the cause of the problem, I believe.) checking all the other GFCI outlets, outlets in the house and there just so happens that on the other end of the house in the kitchen there is one GFCI outlet not working but other GFCI outlets in the kitchen work fine. By any chance do you have any idea why the circuit breaker did not trip? The freezer manual did require a 15 amp circuit breaker which all the circuit breakers are. I am not concerned about getting power to the freezer but 8 do want to get the other items on that circuit to work again. Any ideas as to how I solve this Dilemma?
Can you provide a link to the voltage tester that you use? Thanks
My amazon storefront is linked in the description box, it's in the electrical section. Thanks for the question. Cheers!
@@DaruDhillon Got it! You do an excellent job with your channel. It is very professional. Thanks!
@ appreciate it. It’s my pleasure.
Hi daru I have an older home with only 2 wires no ground can I still use these? Thank you
Hi Joe, a GFCI receptacle will work without a ground wire attached and can be tested on the outlet face but not on an GFCI testing device. The GFCI will provide ground fault protection when installed with 2-wire (hot and neutral).
@DaruDhillon thank you so much for the reply
@@joegonzales772 my pleasure, Joe. All the best!
Actually that’s what you’re supposed to do.
Great video. What is the brand of that tester?
While you have the cover plate off the receptacle, write the panel circuit breaker number on the back of the plate with a marker. The trick is to remember it's there next time. For me, anyway, what?
Great idea. I love this tip. Smart and useful. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video
I'm leaning towards using CAFCI/GFCI breakers in my load center (breaker panel). If I do this, is there any reason to also have GFCI receptacles?
It’s best to check with your local electrical safety authority to see what they recommend.
Uder what circumstances, if any, do you recommend checking the torque setting on a connection to make sure it meets the requirement of manufacturer?
Technically by the NEC 70 code and manufacturer at time of installation always. Don't believe there is a requirement to periodically re-check them. Having replaced many old switches and receptacles can tell you many times they are lose. Most probably not torqued when installed, because it's only a switch or receptacle.
So what is the procedure when you are changing a switch/ plug outlet? I thought I can do it and turns out I didn't. Also why in some kitchen outlets is there 2 hot wires 1 red 1 black.? Any advice
Red can be one of two things- either a second hot wire for a 240V outlet, such as for an electric stove (black to white will be 120V and red to white will be 120V, but red to black will be 240V). The other possibility is it's a switched hot for a light. The black wire will be the always-on hot, the red will be the switched hot to the lighting fixture.
@@scotttodd3506Red can be one of three things. If it's an older home before GFCI's were required, it's likely to be a multi wire branch circuit with a shared neutral. The upper and lower sockets will be on different circuits. An electric stove usually requires a 50 amp 240v circuit and receptacle, NEMA 6-50R or 14-50R. The 14-50R has a connection for a neutral wire. These are single receptacles for dedicated circuits.
Is there a way to identify the line and load wires other than relying on their position on the old outlet? Previous owner did a lot of shoddy work
I only know to go by the colors, but if the last owner did shoddy work I’m not sure I would even trust that.
If you only have 2 wires and no ground on old house does it matter which wire goes where? Thanks.
GFCIs require a ground, but I can't remember the exact explanation, so they won't work for you unless you're able to add one.
@@scotttodd3506 They can be used to add a 3 plug outlet to an old house that only has 2 wires, no ground. It doesn't offer ground protection from lightening strikes etc, but does offer protection from internal shorting in appliance. AND gives you an option to plug 3 prong plugs into. Otherwise one has to use those adapters at Home Depot that you are not supposed to use. Austin code allows this if you put a sticker on plug: "this GFCI outlet is not grounded"
You still need to wire line to line, neutral to neutral. The test button may not work, but the GFCI should still work. You should find a different way to test it just to be sure.
Hello Daru , Whenever I replace outlets and switches , This is what I do as standard procedure , First I'll cut a strip of rubber splicing tape and cover the screws on the hot side and finish wrap it with electrical tape , The splicing tape provides a more safe cushion of insulation and you don't need as much tape to wrap it with , because rubber splicing tape has more thickness than regular electrical tape
I only use one brand of electrical tape and that's Scotch because I've seen other electrical tapes begin to peel off over time ,
That’s a good safety first way of doing it. Looks like you take good care in your work. That’s great to know!
@@DaruDhillon Thank you so much , I am very strict about electrical safety because when I was 10 years old , I was almost electrocuted by a defective floor lamp and our neighbor who's an electrician showed me what happened and taught me some very important lessons about electrical safety and ever since I was little
I've always had a big interest in electricity
Even though I went through a bad experience
Some good came out of it to always put safety first , Such as making sure the power is off and locking out and tagging out the circuit breaker or disconnect switch before working on it , Next is doing it right the first time , To meet The National Electrical Code specifications and I use only the best quality materials I can find , Top quality materials play a very important role in electrical safety as well , Plus I am very strict against cutting corners , All people who do their own electrical work should go to their local electrical supply and pick up a circuit breaker lockout along with a warning tag and padlock because lockout tagout is just as important at home as it is in the workplace , In everything you do ,
There is absolutely no such thing as being too careful , I love to share my tips with others to keep them safe and to have a safe and reliable electrical system
@@DaruDhillon Hello Daru , I love the design of these outlets with the lever connectors to make installation a breeze and especially the safety designed into them , No worry about any connections grounding out against the box and I plan to use them on my next electrical job , Since we've been touching base about electrical safety , There's one very important thing I wanted to touch base with you about ,
When you get a chance , Go on RUclips and type in
Federal Pacific circuit breakers investigation finds decades of danger , NBC Bay area
Check out the video and I hope to God
You and your friends and family do not have a Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel in your home ,
@@DaruDhillon Hello Daru , Sorry I hit the button too soon , Since we've been touching base on electrical safety , I hope to God that you and your friends and family do not have a Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel in their home , When you get a chance , Go on RUclips and type in
Federal Pacific circuit breakers investigation finds decades of danger NBC Bay area
Check out the video , and check your circuit breaker panel , If you have a Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel in your home ,
IT MUST BE REPLACED IMMEDIATELY
Because with these breakers and panels
More than 80% of the breakers did not trip when there was an overload and even worse
A short circuit , Federal Pacific is no longer in business but there's millions of those panels still out there and If you have a Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel in your home , You have no electrical protection because of the high failure rate
Independent lab tests shows that more than 80% of the breakers did not trip
Federal Pacific had knowingly and illegally put the UL stamp on their breakers and panels and let them out on the market
So please check out the video to see how dangerous these breakers and panels are and to check your breaker panel as well and there's more videos about Federal Pacific circuit breaker panels ,
Just looking out for your safety and I'm trying to get the word out about these breakers and panels how dangerous they are and to get them replaced immediately
@@DaruDhillonHello Daru , I want to share with you about why GFCI receptacles and circuit breakers are so important and you posting videos of how to install GFCI receptacles is just as important , Last month I saw a news article about an electrical accident that happened in Logansport Indiana
There was a group of 5 swimming in the in ground pool , There was a sump pump in the pool and what happened is when they set the pool ladder in place , The ladder pinched the cord to the sump pump and severed the cord
Electrifying the water and shocked everybody in the pool , The father got the worst of it , Luckily somebody outside the pool saw what was happening and got the power off
All the people in the pool survived including the father and all will make a full recovery , Obviously the receptacle the pump was plugged into was not GFCI protected , All electrical equipment outside , Especially around swimming pools must be GFCI protected , Lights , Pumps and all other equipment that uses electricity , They were extremely lucky to have all survived , Had the equipment been GFCI protected , The shock would have lasted 1/40th of a second , Long before it would be lethal , The report said that police are investigating the accident , I have a feeling that after the investigation , The homeowner is likely to be charged in court for not having the equipment GFCI protected
Another thing is If one person died of electrocution , The homeowner would likely be charged with manslaughter
I'll bet the homeowner will be charged in court and be slapped with a stiff fine
Thank god they all survived with no serious injuries
This is a perfect example of what can happen cutting corners to save a few bucks , Especially when it comes to electricity , Cutting corners is definitely not worth the risk , 5 people could have very easily lost their lives but thank God somebody was there to get the power off ,
The number one thing is , If an electrical accident happens is
GET THE POWER CUT OFF AND NEVER TOUCH A PERSON IN CONTACT WITH A LIVE WIRE , YOU CAN BE ELECTROCUTED RIGHT ALONG WITH THE PERSON
As a rule of thumb , Never take chances with electricity , Always make sure the power is off using a voltage tester and lock out Tag out the circuit breaker before working on it
Remember in everything you do
ALWAYS PUT SAFETY FIRST !!!!
Thx so much for the great video!
Thanks for watching Billy!
Just fixed mine thanks to your clear instructions, I can't Thank you enough.
@@robureta5803 fantastic that you did it on your own. Great to hear from you, That’s what it’s all about!
3:45 Did she mean turn the power "on" at the breaker?
@@bnhamilton yes I misspoke at that point.
@@DaruDhillon That's OK. You're allowed. Everything else about your videos is awesome!
Can a garage fridge cause the constant tripping
Yes
Definitely you don't want to have a refrigerator plugged into a GFCI receptacle because it can trip just from high humidity and all the food inside could be ruined If it is not reset promptly , So replace it with a standard receptacle but make absolutely sure it is properly grounded
Great video, but T-slot is not for tamper resistant. It is for appliances that require 20 amp circuits and have a different plug so they cant be plugged into a 15 amp circuit. Someone commented on using a 15 amp GFCI on either a 15 or 20 amp circuit which is allowed but should be based on saving a few bucks. Kitchen countertops are required to be supplied by 2 20 amp circuits.
@@SRCardow1 yes thanks for the correction and helpful explanation on proper amperage. Important to know.
15 amp receptacles are not allowed on 20 amp circuits in Canada where the video is from. That's my understanding, unless it has been recently changed.
US more specifically NEC 70 allows it if adopted as law by states or towns don't take exception to it. Must also have more than one receptacle on circuit or it is required to be 20 amps.
@@SRCardow1 A duplex receptacle is 2 receptacles, so a 15 amp duplex receptacle is permitted on a 20 amp circuit, regardless if there are any other outlets on the circuit or not. If an individual branch (dedicated) circuit is required, the receptacle must be a single receptacle, 15 amp on a 15 amp circuit and 20 amp on a 20 amp circuit, to be code compliant.
excellent video presentation
Thanks Misty, I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Where is the ground on the load side cable? I hope it was spliced to the line side ground back inside the box?
It’s grounded to the back of the box.
Great video by the way!
Thanks for taking the time to let me know! I appreciate it!
Another great video Daru👍
Thanks so much! You're talented with your Twitter feed. Impressive 👍
@@DaruDhillon thanks that means a lot 🙂
@@drywallsurgeon my pleasure I can’t do things like that.
How are you associating Black wire with going for the gold? Struggling to make the connection for memorization.
In electrical black is power, the ultimate. In sports gold is ultimate, the best. Going for the gold is a sports saying that works for me as an easy reminder. 🥇🏆
@@DaruDhillon... only in America could a black wire denote power/live ... 🙄😂
In DC circuits, red is positive and black is negative so why not carry that convention through to AC ??
Here in europe, we used to have that convention years ago and for some reason they changed it to brown for live, blue for neutral and green/yellow for ground... pretty random colour-coding there too... 🤔
The way I memorise it is...
The Brown bear will bite you..🐶
Blue with the cold... ❄
And the earth is green , of course ...🌍
😎👍☘️🍺
@@peterfitzpatrick7032You can't really compare AC to DC in this regard. In America the red and black in AC are both hot and alternate between positive (power in) and negative (current return). This applies to 240v circuits. In 120v circuits black is power in and white is current return. The black wire alternates between positive and negative and the white wire is the mid point and is always held to 0 volts, but carries the return current. The white wire represents the center tap of the transformer secondary windings or the mid point.
Don't concern yourself with memorization, but rather educate yourself on basic residential wiring and theory. It's not complicated and will make you safer and aware. It should become as obvious as what shoe goes on what foot. You should always verify that the black wire is the hot wire, you never know who worked on the wiring previously and it could be miswired.
Somebody said to remember it this way: Mr T wears gold, so black to gold.
Love this I need to replace a few.. well done and what a smile ! I'm subbed :- )
Awesome! Thanks for the sub and good on you for replacing your GFCIs!!
w0w, thats Great, i need to get a few!! THANKS
I would typically recommend that you install/use 15A GFCI and regular 15A receptacles on any 20A kitchen/bath circuit in place of 20A versions. It actually enhances protection (and is permitted by code)... you can only plug in devices that require 15A or less and never any device that requires 20A. That way, you never overload any single outlet, nor the circuit itself. I can't think of any kitchen/bath device that would require 20A anyway and if they do, you'd be better off with a dedicated circuit for it.
Thanks for the info!
It's not permitted by code in Canada where DaruDhillon is.
what would happen if line and load neutrals were reversed?
You probably would not be able to reset the GFCI. In a regular receptacle, the plugged in item would still work, but it would be a shock hazard. Normally the power coming in stops at a switch, start button, etc., before entering the electrical system of the appliance, lamp, or tool. If the wires are reversed, the power goes through the equipment before the switch, so if there's a metal case and the live wire contacts it, and if there's no ground it could result in a shock or electrocution, even with the power off.
@@surferdude642 thanks!
@@surferdude642 most modern gfcis will not reset at all but some older gfcis would still work and wont trip
GFCI outlets are designed that if they're wired backwards , They will not set when you press the reset button to activate it
when they turned my garage into a spare room, they never put in any gfci. This includes a kitchenette and bathroom area with shower. There was no outlets in the bathroom, but one right outside that I'd be forced to use at times. So I made it GFCI and I feel much safer now! It was super simple to change a regular outlet to GFCI. Now when I shave I don't fear electrocution!
Well done! It’s so important to have working GFCIs in bathrooms, kitchens or near water. Everyone’s life is valuable and it’s a simple DIY that will give you peace of mind. Well done! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. It’s important!
Are you sure it didn't have gfi installed at the panel ?
@@nedmilburn Yep 100% sure. this was done in the late 1970's.
@@nedmilburn where I am you are required to have GFCI receptacles. I would check your local electrical code to see what is required in your area. The existing electrical is fairly recent.
@@DaruDhillon Why are you directing this question to me?
no loops on wires?
You can absolutely do the loops 👍🏽
Not all GFCI manufacturers have the line on top some are at the bottom , very important to note .
@@williameisenberg1999 yes that is a common situation. Thanks for pointing that out.
Your box should be bonded to the ground and then a pig tail from the GFCI to the ground and box. But the yoke should be grounded since there is a ground, and the box will then be grounded when it's all put back together. It's just best to bond the box itself though as well.
Appreciate the advice. The added pigtail with ground is what I’ll do next time around. Thanks for sharing!
Maybe already addressed, but if not, you did not show ground in the box & only conneted one ground to receptacle. You need both grounds from each wire are pigtailed , with one going out to metal box & the other to the receptacle. Only one wire per screw. So so all is grounded. So total 4 wires in pigtail. Now if too crowded, just swap the metal box with deep plastic. Also, never just swap 15amp for 20amp receptacle unless 12ga & 20amp breaker.
Thanks for mentioning that. The box and all wires in the box are grounded at the back. Appreciate your comment and others. I’ve shown this close up of the back of the box ground screw in my latest video on smart dimmer installation. I’m always taking notes on your suggestions. Thank-you!
It’s usually pigtailed. There no place on the receptacle for more than one grounding wire.
@@K31swissCanadian metal boxes have 2 ground screws.
What is that screwdriver
It’s an insulated Electricians screwdriver. They protect against shock and arcing.
Solid wire was eliminated in Italy in the mid 1970's because it's so hard to work with , although it is more robust and can last longer.
Thanks for sharing! I love hearing what is standard in other parts of the world. So interesting! 🇮🇹
You mentioned that some GFI outlets self-test every 15 minutes, and some self-test every 90 minutes, and that we should "keep that in mind" when getting new ones, but you never explained why. Is there an advantage or disadvantage either way?
It’s up to homeowners to decide which they’d prefer. I buy them because they are safer because they are tested often. That might not be an issue for other people.
@@DaruDhillon - Thanks for the response. If it's just a preference, I think I'd rather go with the 90 minute test. If something cycles that often and regularly, more cycles = more opportunities for something to go wrong. It would be interesting to know what sort of long term test failures each type experiences.
3:55 im so confused. she says the breakers off. finds the hot wire then says shes going to turn the power off? what?? am i braindead what dahelll
@@dictionplacement5467 I misspoke. Either that or I have super powers. ;)
I would cap the wires before turning the power back on to verify which one is on the line side as an added layer of safety.
Excellent tip! Thanks and noted. I’ve added that to my latest video. Appreciate the advice. Always room for improvement.
Excellent video. Just what I needed thank you very much.
That’s great to hear thanks so much!
you only tested the bottom socket, should have tested both as unusual wiring could energize differently on top vs bottom.
I learned it black to the brass- both begin with B.
Good to know! That works and I hadn’t heard that one before. Thanks for sharing!
@unclerichard6729. I hope folks ignore your rude and unnecessary comment. This video contains solid information and is better quality than many other videos on this subject. You must have a chip on your shoulder.
Quality video of lines inside box would have been helpful. Hands constantly moving in front of box obscuring view of lines.
Thanks for the feedback
What does “line” mean?
you remind me of Carly Simon in the 70s.
Hello to you in Arizona! Thanks :)
The metal box needs to be ground. Pigtail needed to connect ground from line to box AND ground screw on GFCI.
Thanks for the tips
Love “going for gold “
Glad you think so! Hopefully it’s easy to remember.
Bronze (screw) = Black (wire) is also a good way to remember
Straight to the point!
I never see anyone in these videos torquing the screws. They do have torque specifications.
Torque requirements are listed by some manufactures. They are often included to prevent liability, to ensure proper installation (which is important) and to prevent poor installation.
@DaruDhillon Agreed, which is why I am curious as to why no one ever mentions them in their videos. I've seen many other videos similar to yours and no one even mentions the subject.
Theres actually two hots. One is the black wire and the other is Daru 😇
Yes, you must wear a flannel shirt to work on electric outlets
It’s code.
“out” is pronounced “out”, not “oot”. 😂 Canadian, eh?
Nicely done, ma’am! Gotta ask though- why does an electrician where her metal wedding band when doing electrical work? Be safe!
My accent gave me away! You know it. Working without jewelry now. It’s a good reminder. Cheers!
You must use # 12 gauge wire on 20 amp gfci
Absolutely right! Thanks for the reminder.
Thanks baby ❤
But you're supposed to wrap the wire around the screws 😮
My husband just put one in the kitchen but nothing will plug into it, can opener, etc. What is wrong? This is crazy, he's trying to force a plug in it, and it won't go in. WTH could be wrong? HELP
Have you checked to make sure the prongs of your plugs are straight? Crooked plugs won’t insert into tamper resistant receptacles.
Only thing I noticed that she missed was that only one ground wire was connected. Where was the Load side ground?
The Canadian metal boxes have 2 ground screws.
There should be a note saying “wiring for a 20amp receptacle needs at least 12ga wiring. Do not install a 20amp receptacle with 15amp rated wiring”
Thank-you! That was missed but I appreciate you sharing that important tip and advice.
Oh, I did not know GFI can do self-testing? I thought the only testing is to push the TEST button?
It is my personal opinion that there is NO need for ground wire if you have GFI. Because GFI will cut power if there is a milliamp leakage. That is like put a safety net to catch someone falling 0.001mm distance.
I’m glad you learned something new that’s great! Thanks for sharing your perspective. To pass our electrical inspections we need to ground GFCIs and all receptacles. The inspectors will check for that with the tester, like in the video. I appreciate their attention to detail.
Actually 4 to 6mA. They are supposed to work without ground, however, the test button may not work because there is no way to leak the 4mA test current.
I must have missed HOW to determine which is line and which is load side! She labeled them BEFORE looking at the device. One of mine had line on the bottom. Not a fan of bending solid wire with bare hands and NOT using needle-nose pliers (or another tool). Wire into the RIGHT-hand side of the screw terminal? Should be on the left, and (preferably) curved to have greater contact area. Overall. I wasn't thrilled with this technique OR "teaching" style. If you are reading this BEFORE you install or replace a GFCI, I would suggest watching at LEAST one or two more! Stay safe!
Good class lady
What do you mean by "line" at 2:15 in? You say it's really important but you don't say what it is or why it's important.
Line means the wires that feed the outlet. I have more details in the video just beyond your timestamp. Thanks!
TIGHT!
Cheers!
👍
Hello Jac, Thanks for watching! 👋
@@DaruDhillon ☺
FYI: "An hour and half" and "90 minutes" is the same thing!
That t-slot is not tqmper resistant, its a 20amp receptacle
It’s a 20 amp, tamper resistant.
The t-slot is for 20 amps only. The receptacle should be stamped TR for tamper resistant.@@DaruDhillon
Why wrapping the terminals? What exactly do you need an extra layer of protection from? You're not working live, and the receptacle can't move once installed. If something contacts those terminals you really bodged something up.
I use metallic conduit and boxes pretty much exclusively and i don't understand how you could ever have a short to the terminals. Around here wrapping in tape is seen as hacky poor workmanship.
You should probably spend that time stripping fresh wire and not reusing the oxidized portion. Maybe you scratched enough oxide off when you reinserted them to make good contact. Maybe.
Also what was that grounding situation? Couldn't really see it that well but there probably should be more than 1 ground conductor in there.
Wrapping terminals is really common here but if you don't do it, that's fine and up to you. The box is also grounded.
@@DaruDhillon I guess tape is rated for insulating, we just don't really use it for that.
What about the load side receptacles of the GFCI? Even things like surge protectors won't work without an equipment ground.
Technically the wipers on the gfci mounting screw will bond the box so that much was fine.
Wrapping the terminals prevent them from touching the metal box and short circuiting if you handle the outlet while power is on. If your workflow prevents this from ever happening, they don't hurt anything either. Why is that poor workmanship?