I got a chuckle out of this in a friendly sort of way. You were a brave man to put everything back together before you tested the finished circuit. You never know when Murphy is going to help.😂
This is my exact problem. I have 3 outlets not working (in my kitchen). I thought I'd have to replace the circuit breaker in the panel, but I followed your same steps and I DO have power to the line side of the GFCI. That's good news. Thanks.
This video was clear and simple. I followed your instructions word for word and changed out my GCFI receptacle without a hitch and didn’t get electrocuted doing it!! Thank you!!!!
Very useful video. I used the procedure in this video to determine that my GFCI receptacle is indeed defective. This suggests that I can probably DIY the project myself.
Fantastic video . I'm a current hvac student , just finished two basic electrical classes . Spot on , clear and thoroughly explained. Devil is in the details. Using a legit fluke meter, safely with one hand , confirming power is off , using an insulated screwdriver, marking the " line " side of the hot and neutral. Putting that receptacle nice and even with the face plate screws orientated in the same direction. confirming the proper wiring and function of the gfci with the tester . I will be subscribing and looking through your other content. I'm sure I will be able to learn a lot . Thanks
Thank you Terry, the way you explained it was perfect for those of us that are not experts. Problem fixed on this end Thanks to you. (Load and line were reversed...DOH!). Thanks again.
Thanks for the video I am an automotive technician and am quite familiar with with DC electrical systems but AC is just a bit different. I had a GFCI outlet that tripped and buzzed after I reset it. I got the smell of something burning/hot, which is quite terrifying to me because I've had an electrical house fire before years ago. The process you described is essentially what I came up with on my own but I feel much better having someone familiar with it explain it, to confirm my thought process. I also decided to replace my existing GFCI with a afci/ GFCI receptacle... I figured I might as well.
Great video. Thanks. Funny another video I watched from someone else they fast forward it through taking the wires off and hooking the wires up. That was dumb of them. It was great that you mentioned the line and the load differences and to Mark the line and the loads. Very important. Also, as someone else commented other people said that when replacing an older model sometimes that lines and loads position on the receptacle and reverse order from top to bottom so you want to read and pay attention to which wires are line and loads when you remove them and where it is marked on the new receptacle line and loads.
exactly the instruction I needed this morning. Couldn't get my Christmas lights to come on. I have the eave of my house hard wired with plugins however I could not get a few to come on. The GFCIs are about 14 years old. So now I know what to do next. Thanks
Terry!! You DA MAN!!!! Thank you so much for your step by step video! I successfully replaced the GFCI in our RV and this video helped me! You just gained a subscriber!
Just a note, it's always a good idea to remove metal jewelry before working on electrical work. Also don't work with sweaty hands as salt water is a much much better conductor than dry skin. This last one I learned the hard way. :)
Good advice. I always forget to take off my rings for my videos and have been called out on it many times. Also good advice; shut off the power so there’s no chance of a shock at all, regardless of rings, sweat, nuttin!
I know this is an old video but I've had to replace the outside GFI recyclable three times in a year ? The ground wire to the houses breaker box are good also I have three wire Romex in the house and it's hooked up correctly to the GFI and its also underneath roofed in porch with a weatherproof case.......
That’s obviously not normal. It needs some hands-on trouble-shooting. What do you use that receptacle for? Is there something that you’re plugging in to it that causing the problems?
@@theinternetelectrician just some LED Christmas lights and one or two blow ups The one that was installed lasted 2 years then this year it took a crap for Halloween then the new one took a crap with a Thanksgiving blow up turkey and now I just installed another new one for the Christmas lights.
My bathroom GFCI quit working (it is getting power, I have a voltage tester "pen" that flashes and beeps indicating power). I bought a new GFCI and installed. Only one wire leading to it, so made sure it was hooked up to "line" (and confirmed one I took out was wired to "line"). After turning breaker back on, checked the outlet and the red light was blinking indicating an "end of life" condition per the instruction sheet???? Pressing test and reset buttons did nothing. Plugged in a receptacle tester and no lights. What are the odds of buying a bad GFCI? Guess I will return it and try another one. I put the old one back in and it was still dead. Suppose if another new GFCI doesn't work, there is a bigger issue going on and may need to call someone. Though no clue what that issue could be. A light switch in the same wall box works fine.
Those non-contact voltage testers are way too unreliable to properly trouble-shoot this problem. Rub it through your hair and you'll see that you have the same indication of power in your head! You need a voltage tester, even a 2-wire neon tester at the least, but a multimeter would be best. I would guess that you have lost the neutral in the circuit? But it also could be the hot. Either in a bad connections or splice somewhere upstream, or at the breaker panel if this is the only device on the circuit. Get a proper tester, and I'll help you trouble-shoot this via photos and email, or with facetime or some video type call. internetelectrician@gmail.com and we can go from there.
@@theinternetelectrician Turns out it was a bad GFCI. Before taking it back to the store, I wired it up at another outlet and it still showed the blinking red light. Exchanged it for another GFCI and that one worked fine once I wired it up. Thank you for the offer to help. I do have a multimeter (came in a set with the pen and outlet tester) but when I tried using it as you show in the video, the display would jump around between random numbers and made no sense to me. Did this on another outlet I experimented on as well. I think there was a low battery indicator on the display so I'm guessing that had something to do with it. I didn't have another 9-volt to replace it with.
Thanks, Terry. I have a question. You turned off the power break in the first step. Why there is still 120V from the lines coming into the GFCI outlet?
After 8 years I had to replace my GFCI as it wasn't working. I only had B & W Lines wires coming in and no lLOAD going out. Simple fix. But the green proof light does not glow on the receptacle. I tested the outlet with a Klein brand receptacle tester and got two orange lights to glow proving all is correct. So why doesn't the green proof light glow on the receptacle? THUMBS UP!!!
Need to read the instructions to the receptacle. They all operate differently and the lights mean different things on different brands. (Yes, it's a pain - they aren't standardized).
Hi and thank you for the video. I changed out our GFCI receptacle but it's not passing power through it still but power is going to it. What could be tripping it and how would we find out?
Not sure? Did you ensure your "line" and " load" terminals have the correct cable sets going to them? And that you didn't cross the neutral wires? Both neutral and hot supply must connect to the line, and same for the load.
@@theinternetelectrician Thank you Very much ! I just did a quick look see and yeah. I put the load on the line and etc. You saved me brother! Peace °•○●□■
Some receptacles have their line terminals on the top and some are on the bottom. Even Leviton has reversed the locations over the years so you have to read the markings carefully when replacing old gfci receptacles and you may have to reverse the wires coming out of the box to match up the line to the line terminals on the new receptacle.
You have to do the testing with the wires all apart and off of the device. There's no simple way. If the device was installed correctly you just check what terminal pairs the wires on and make note of that and replace the same.
If the green light button keeps popping out after u push it in to work what does that mean I have a pool filter hooked up to it it goes on then pops after a couple seconds or minutes
Hey Terry, I have a pellet grill that keeps tripping my garage GFCI. The troubleshooting resource said old GFCIs have a "nuisance trip". Is this true? Could it be a sign the outlet is failing? I know it could be a number of things, I don't think I have anything else drawing a load on that circuit, but I'm still double checking. Thanks for the help!
Nuisance tripping is a "thing" for sure. But more likely that there is a fault in the pellet grill and whatever is the electrical component of it. Run an extension cord to another GFCI protected outlet and see if it trips it as well? If not, faulty outlet. If so, faulty component.
I have a question I was having a problem with the low-voltage turn out to be a powerline outside. My house was damaged and the power company replaced. today I discovered in my room, my ceiling, fan and light work the switch to the bathroom also works but the closet light and for outlets do not come on I discovered a GFI switch, and when I press the reset button. It pops out immediately can Bad GFI switch. Really create no power to four outlets and a closet light
Hi Richard. Yes, a GFCI can go bad and need replacing. in all likelihood, whoever wired that circuit connected those outlets to the 'load' side of that GFCI outlet and that's why they are out. This could be corrected. When you change out the GFCI receptacle, you could pigtail the incoming feed and outgoing feeds to the 'line' side of the GFCI and not use the 'load' terminals. If you're not comfortable with doing this, hire an electrician to come take care of it for you. As always, safety first, and make certain the power is off if you take on this project yourself.
@@theinternetelectrician when my garage gfci trips, all the outlets behind it go down. I assuming the electrician who wire my garage put them in series instead of parallel.
Terry, gfi outlet trips in garage when sprinkler goes on. 2 separate circuits. Sprinkler on 1 & garage on other. Garage dr opener is on garage circuit. Has been wired this way from when house was new. If u can, please help or do I need to call a electrician.
Hi Terry, thank you for your informative video. My question is why my GFCI outlet is not working; it has a solid red LED on. When I plugged a GFCI tester, nothing light up. The Circuit Line is hot when I tested it with a non-contact AC Voltage Detector. I even disconnected the Load line from the outlet. I greatly appreciated for any pieces of advice.
I think I have a bad GFCI in my little RV trailer. I pulled it out of the box but it looks different. It is a sealed box with five wires coming out of it. Green wire for ground, a red (load) wire on the left side, a grey (load) wire on the right side, and a black and white wire coming out of the center. What does each wire do? It is marked as a dual pole.
UK electrician. We do 5 tests on gfci. 1x current, 5x current both sides of wave curve checking operating time. Then manual trip test. Never seen any testing USA, do you test & record any results. Plus unshielded probes on Fuke tester, taking a chance.
Hi Terry I have a saluspa Coleman hot tub. The gfci plug will not show red light on which means all good to use power wise/ safe! I have tested and reset this plug still no red light . Can u help me ?
@@kimscalera6154 I would be inclined to believe that only the indicator light failed, and that the GFCI protection is still working then. But to be sure I would contact technical support at Coleman to see if they think it's a concern. Maybe they will send out a replacement cord? The other thing you could do would be to cut off that GFCI plug from the cord, put on a regular cord cap (plug), and then plug in to a GFCI receptacle. This is a solution if the tub is off warranty now as this would void your remaining warranty. I have a couple of those GFCI plug and cord units that I have accumulated from using inexpensive pool pumps to circulate my old hot tub that I had a propane heater on. I'd ship you out one if you'd like?!?
Hi terry thank you so much for your help ! The hot tub gfci plug is plugged into a gfci receptacle already. Initially this red light was working at prior uses . How important is it to have a breaker in our home breaker box dedicated to the hot tub ? My husband says it should not matter .
Kim Scalera then you are doubly protected for ground-fault so I wouldn’t worry about that. Those GFI plugs provide the protection so you don’t need to be plugged into a GFCI receptacle as well. It would be best if the tub was on its own circuit but if there’s not much else for loads on that circuit, then it’s ok. If it was a heavily used circuit, it would trip the breaker in the panel.
I have a treadmill on a GFCI circuit. It has worked for a number of years. Recently, the GFCI outlet broke and I replaced it. The circuit tester shows that I wired it correctly and the test and reset buttons work and I have power. I can turn on the treadmill, but as I increase the speed, the GFCI trips. Any thoughts?
@@theinternetelectrician thanks for the reply. Although the first GFCI was 20amp, it’s been sitting in the original box in my drawer. Don’t know if they go bad but I replaced it with a brand new one and it’s working fine.
@@laneemley5865 Yes, they can and do go bad. I've had faulty ones right from the factory. Both ones that don't trip on a ground fault, and ones that are too sensitive. You must have got the latter.
Yes, I should have. But the 'line' and 'load' terminals are always identified, and new devices are sold with a bold colored tape covering the 'load' terminals.
@@hotwheel6663 Sounds like a moisture issue. If it happens again, use a hair dryer to speed up the drying and then you'll know if it was moisture or not.
You shut off the breakers but it still shows 120AC across the line. Is there something I'm missing? Shouldn't it be 0? Or did you turn it back on for your multimeter test?
It should be 0, or close to it. I'll have to watch again to see what you mean, but this is the first observation of this that I've seen in my comments.
I have two GFI's that went out for 2 upstairs bathrooms, is that normal that if one GFI goes out that the other one will go out also? The bathrooms were built back to back to each other so I'm guessing they share the same wiring somehow?
I didn’t get it. What did you do with those cables? You flipped them? Or you changed to new ones? Please explain in simple words step by step what did you do regarding the positions of these cables!
Hello Renan. I'm not sure what you don't understand, but I can try to explain. You have a cable coming in that is the power source. That goes to the "line" terminals, white (neutral), and black (hot). Then you have a cable that goes out to the rest of the circuit that you would want to be protected downstream of this GFCI, and you would connect those wires from that cable to the "load" terminals. The ground wires get spliced together along with pigtails to go to the box ground terminal (if applicable), and to the green grounding terminal of the receptacle. If this doesn't clarify things for you, I am available on PalTap for live video consultation at paltap.me/internetelectrician
I have 1900’s home that has circuits ungrounded. I replaced the beginning of the circuit with a new gfci outlet. One that has 4 wires 2B 2W I tested and the B and W one that had power I put to the line. The B and W that tested nothing to the load to continue the circuit. No ground wire available. The gfci outlet indicates red. It’s getting power, but plugging in something it won’t work. The next outlet on the same circuit does work. The reset nor test work. Solid red indicator light. I feel I’ve hooked it up correctly. Lost on what to try other than another gfci.
Have you verified that you don't have a hot - neutral reverse on either the line or the load? You'll have to find an alternate ground reference to check this due to the fact that you have no grounding conductor. Use a copper water line if you can for a reference point and see if your black wire is really the hot wire or not.
What if you have one cable for load hot (black) and one neutral (white) will the gfi work. Also should test n reset buttons work before installing. The outlet itself is blocking the ability to plug anything in.
Awesome thanks I have the same problem I didn’t know about that line side and load side I have to recheck it because I’m still having it not resetting I have a outlet outside that should some corrosion but when replaced it with a new outlet the GFI inside still won’t reset maybe I have the line and loan wrong I will recheck thanks your info was helpful
I install two new outlets in my welding machine they show a constant red light but they don't work, they also don't reset or nothing, do you know what could it be? I install them the same way they were wired
You need to carefully check that you have the line and load pairs wired correctly, and make certain that you didn't switch the neutrals so they aren't with the correct hot wire, line or load. This is a frequent mistake that we all have made at one time or another!
I have a similar receptacle tester with a button for testing GFCI's. At home; where all the GFCI's are no more then 3-5 years old they all pop when I push the tester button but at a rental apartment, although the two GFCI's supply power & will pop with their test buttons; they do not with my tester. So the question; is it possible for GFCI's to be bad yet test good with their test button ?
Of coarse , they are a breaker just like the breakers in panel but no failt recepticals or breakers trip by short not temp. As all normal breakers trip by heat. So all your tester doing is shorting out the np falt, if your tester good not shorted out , posibly your tester bad , some one shorted that part of tester out and it ruined it by melting the. Wire peice on the test botton. So check your recetical by volt meter , mash tbe receptical red botton, then test voltage in receptical with volt meter. If it still 120 v or 60v it a bad no fault receptical. But if it reads 0 v and nothing else on same circuit , use volt tester and check it again. If 0 v , reset receiptical and test it again with volt meter. If 120 v it working, if 60v or 0 it bad. 60 volt means there other recepticals or a light on same circuit on neutral side. That why your neutral reads 60 v add or take away 3-5 volts. If it says 63 or higher your wiring is to small and causing a power drop. That raises power bills plus causes ref, ac's, etc to drop out and restart after relays and coils cool off or some stay off snd gives few more volts on your circuit it come back on because voltage drop corrected above 3 volt drop then when other kick on, your circut drops out because the 3 volt drop again. All tbat is because wire to small for service or circuits. Remember all circuits from msin service breaker must be 100 feet distance or less for circuit . If between 101-199 feet distance use next size bigger eire for that circuit, if 200-299 feet distance use 2 size biger wire on tbe circuit. Continue as further distance , the biger wire size.
Yes it does. The live (hot) wire and its associated neutral go to the Line and the other ones go to the Load, if you want to protect downstream outlets. If not, they all go to the Line.
Hello, just replaced a 20yr Gfci in garage. A little green light appears when I hook it up ,but it provides no power,or tripping ability. Thought i hooked up black wire as hot and white a gnds. Is it possible that the hot wires were hooked up incorrect.any input appreciated
Some receptacles have their line terminals on the top and some are on the bottom. Even Leviton has reversed the locations over the years so you have to read the markings carefully when replacing old gfci receptacles and you may have to reverse the wires coming out of the box to match up the line to the line terminals on the new receptacle.
I have multiple gfci outlets in my house that constantly trip. Like if you use it, 75% of the time its gonna trip. It trips at the outlet, not the breaker box. The outlets are on different breakers, 1s in kitchen, 1s in garage, 1s in bathroom. Light bulbs in my house go out constantly to. House is only 10 years old. Any idea what might be causing this? Thanks alot for any info
That's a strange one, but it must be due to a connection problem, and likely in your panel on the main wires coming in. You need to get in a good trouble-shooting electrician and have them check and test, check all connection lugs on the main breaker, the neutral connections, and maybe then you will need the utility supply to pull the meter and check in the meter socket and / or the connections at the transformer. To affect multiple circuits and outlets, this is all I can think of.
Yes, you are correct. But I seem to always forget to remove them! However, the careful electricians still have all their fingers (and toes) as do I! (Touch wood, 58 years and counting)
Yes it is. The same goes for regular receptacles as long as it is a duplex (2 places to plug in) receptacle. If a single receptacle was used on a 20 amp circuit, then it would have to be a 20 amp receptacle. Single receptacles are primarily used in a dedicated circuit. GFCI's don't come in single version.
I recently noticed the gfci in my bathroom was making a faint buzzing noise. Pressing Test stopped it and it wasn't doing it after I reset. First time that's happened. The bathroom tends to get humid. Should I replace it? Is it a fire hazard?
You have what we call a faceless GFCI. Yes, if the test and reset work and the pump stops, that's a sufficient test, and is what you're supposed to do on a monthly basis. Keep up the good work! Thanks for watching.
When you unscrewed the 2 neutral lines why didn’t you remove the second neutral line from the screw? And at 5:08 cant tell how to put the wire in is the screw go THROUGH the wire? (your hand is in the way)
He didn't remove the wire because it was only a demonstration of what needed to be done in order to fix this type of problems. He never replaced the existing outlet, but he showed the steps needed to do so.
GFCI receptacles are duplex types (2 receptacles in one device), so a 15 A GFCI can be installed on a 20A circuit with no issue. The only time that a 20A GFCI must be used is where a device with a 20A plug will be connected. Thanks for watching!
I find your video helpful! As ive followed instructions exactly as you showed and replaced the gfci the same was as i took out the other one. But this outlet has 3 hot wires, 3 nuetrals, and a ground and it’s getting power but wont trip. Please help.
You have a power feed in, and two feeds out of that box then. What we need to know is what else is being fed from there and what (if any) of the other devices that you want to be GFCI protected.
I have 2 gfci's on the same circuit.both have stopped working and reset buttons do not work and no circuit breakers are out.I checked the outlets and they both say open hot.
You need to open up those outlets and look for the problem. Safety first, shut off the power. You will likely find a poor termination on one of the receptacles.
my patio recepticle is loose(moisture could have entered the box) so I will see if it works but my main issue is neither the bath or kitchen gfi recepticle will not click if I press either the test or reset button like above and both the indoor gfi outlets however they will both light up a lamp for me, when press the top button (red-reset) on the gfi, the lamp goes out and when I release pressure on the top (red-reset) button the lamp gets power again and relights. So I hope its as simple as replacing the cfi's. They are probably 30 yrs old.
The instructions in this video only work if you already know which breaker supplies power to the failed outlet. Many houses are not clearly labeled at the breakers. Here is an alternate procedure that works better: Take the outlet cover off while the power is still turned on at the breaker. Stick a non-contact voltage tester into the box to locate the hot live wire from the breaker. Have a second person go turn off the breaker while you watch the voltage tester to see when power is cut. Continue the remaining steps as shown in this video.
Hi there ,good video .Can fgi get weak and sometimes they trip ? i have a recirculating pump on my bathroom and sometimes i find the gfi tripped , reset it and it works but a couple of days later same thing. thanks
They are very sensitive, so more than a 'weak' device, I would say that the pump has a bit of leakage, maybe when the moisture and / or humidity is high enough to affect the pump is when you get this nuisance tripping?
I replaced two failed gfci outlets on our cabin, they were still giving power to the outlets on the device itself and one downstream outlet each. They just couldn’t trip or be reset.
I just replaced a gfci in my bathroom. The outlet test and reset work and the green light comes on, however anything I plug in does not work. Any ideas?
My GFCI outlet in my bathroom won't turn off. Everytime I touch the Reset button it pops right back out. Also the light on the GFCI won't turn off. It stays orange. Also the area where the orange light is is kind of hot. The outlet is not hot but just the area where the orange light is at. My house isn't going to catch on fire right? Lol.... Is the light being on a bad thing?
The tiny orange indicator light will put out some heat, so that may be normal, but your GFCI needs to be replaced or it is somehow connected wrong with a line/load mix-up. It could also just plain be faulty. I’ve had them not work properly right out of the box. Not exactly a “dangerous” situation, but get it remedied.
My GFIC tripped today for the first time in years. The only things on it are some outlets and an outdoor light. My Washing machine is plugged into one outlet. It is the outdoor light that is tripping it. When I turn the light switch off the GIFC doesn’t turn off. I checked everything from the light switch to the light bulb. All connections are good and there is no moisture. What now?
605 Central Time Chicago Illinois, I just put in a new gfci in my basement bathroom, it's 2wire black is hot side white land side, turned the power back on,I get the green light that comes on,green light stays on try to test and reset it won't reset button won't push in, both button won't push in
Mines trips breaker but turns power on the lower plug. When I press the reset then it trips the breaker?? Took it off and when I press the reset, it sounds like there’s a loose spring noise??
Had a GFCI also trip on my garage, has 2 standard outlets linked. When removed the in LINE had 2 black wires and the back was melted. Checked the LOAD voltage and read 158.9. Advice?
Call a plumber lol. Im no electrician but saw your comment. I would pull all the outlets in the house and make sure they are wired properly. You can also measure voltage without pulling the receptacle out. If you measure 120ish you can assume they are wired right and move on to the next. Once they are all wired right go back and check to see if your 158 is corrected. You found the problem post us your solution.
@@BWeezy-sw1wy called a electrician, he was messing with it for two hours , He said " I can NOT find any reason as to why the GFCI should not have worked" besides adding a new breaker and starting from scratch, that was a 1400$ quote or leave the standard outlet and pay labor $200.
Hi my gfci is not working and it has a color yellow light. I pushed the reset button and test button and it doesnt click. I turn off the gfci on the main breaker and still not working.
Yes, turning off the main breaker is a bulletproof way to ensure your safety. Often, individual circuit breakers are mislabeled. Of course you should always use a volt meter to check if you are just turning off an individual circuit breaker. And for that matter, even if you turn off the main, double check with a voltage meter. They cost under $10.
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I got a chuckle out of this in a friendly sort of way. You were a brave man to put everything back together before you tested the finished circuit. You never know when Murphy is going to help.😂
After countless hours of watching other videos. You walked me right through it. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome!
A simple, yet very thorough, video on how to diagnose and fix a faulty GFCI outlet. Very professional. Great job!
Thanks Ken!
This is my exact problem. I have 3 outlets not working (in my kitchen). I thought I'd have to replace the circuit breaker in the panel, but I followed your same steps and I DO have power to the line side of the GFCI. That's good news. Thanks.
Happy to help out! Thanks for the comment, and I hope that you gave it a 'like', and that you've subscribed to my channel? Have a great day!
This video was clear and simple. I followed your instructions word for word and changed out my GCFI receptacle without a hitch and didn’t get electrocuted doing it!! Thank you!!!!
Thanks for watching! I hope that you also subscribed to my channel, and clicked the bell? Much appreciated!
Thanks for this video. I was able to diagnose a faulty GFCI receptacle and replace it myself with the help of your easy-to-follow video.
Thanks for watching April!
Of all the videos I’ve seen this is the first to test for power at the lines to diagnose the gfci as faulty. Thanks for this 👍🏾
Thank-you Jonny!
Very useful video. I used the procedure in this video to determine that my GFCI receptacle is indeed defective. This suggests that I can probably DIY the project myself.
Fantastic video . I'm a current hvac student , just finished two basic electrical classes . Spot on , clear and thoroughly explained. Devil is in the details. Using a legit fluke meter, safely with one hand , confirming power is off , using an insulated screwdriver, marking the " line " side of the hot and neutral. Putting that receptacle nice and even with the face plate screws orientated in the same direction. confirming the proper wiring and function of the gfci with the tester .
I will be subscribing and looking through your other content. I'm sure I will be able to learn a lot .
Thanks
Thanks so much! If you have any questions for clarity, please reach out to my email, terry@electrical-online.com
@@theinternetelectrician thank you ! I will
Thank you Terry, the way you explained it was perfect for those of us that are not experts. Problem fixed on this end Thanks to you. (Load and line were reversed...DOH!). Thanks again.
Excellent!
THANK YOU. VERY EASY TO FOLLOW. JUST SCARED TO DO IT. I WILL SHOW THE VIDEO TO SOMEONE ELSE. GREAT JOB!
Thank-you so much for the kind words! If you need any other help, let me know!
What a great, to the point video. I’m going to find out if my GFCI is the problem.
Thanks Vanessa!
This video helped me diagnose and fix the GFCI receptacle problem in my kitchen. Thanks so much!
You're welcome! Happy to help out!
Thanks for the video I am an automotive technician and am quite familiar with with DC electrical systems but AC is just a bit different. I had a GFCI outlet that tripped and buzzed after I reset it. I got the smell of something burning/hot, which is quite terrifying to me because I've had an electrical house fire before years ago. The process you described is essentially what I came up with on my own but I feel much better having someone familiar with it explain it, to confirm my thought process. I also decided to replace my existing GFCI with a afci/ GFCI receptacle... I figured I might as well.
Thanks for the comment. Happy to have helped!
Since so many of these have a problem out of the box, I'd test before mounting the receptacle!
Great video. Thanks. Funny another video I watched from someone else they fast forward it through taking the wires off and hooking the wires up. That was dumb of them. It was great that you mentioned the line and the load differences and to Mark the line and the loads. Very important. Also, as someone else commented other people said that when replacing an older model sometimes that lines and loads position on the receptacle and reverse order from top to bottom so you want to read and pay attention to which wires are line and loads when you remove them and where it is marked on the new receptacle line and loads.
Yes, good advice! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, very good on the explanation of the line and load. Older GFCI have the line on the bottom and load on top, new ones are reversed.
Thanks for watching Russell.
Thank you. This was the best video of this issue I’ve seen 🙌🏽
Nice. Simple explanation and straightforward. Appreciate it !
Thanks for watching eric!
exactly the instruction I needed this morning. Couldn't get my Christmas lights to come on. I have the eave of my house hard wired with plugins however I could not get a few to come on. The GFCIs are about 14 years old. So now I know what to do next. Thanks
Same happened to me today!
Need some "hands-on" trouble-shooting for this unfortunately!
Terry!! You DA MAN!!!! Thank you so much for your step by step video! I successfully replaced the GFCI in our RV and this video helped me! You just gained a subscriber!
I appreciate your well thought out, well explained, and clearly edited video on this :D Other videos on GFCI receptacles were hard to follow.
Thanks so much Ricky!
Great explanation of diagnosis and remedy. I may have to replace my electrical box that is very old.
Thanks for this video, it helped understand on how to install the receptacle. THANKS
Thank you, followed these instructions and it worked perfectly 🙏
Excellent!
Likes your easy to follow instructions, especially safety.
Thanks for watching Uriel!
Just a note, it's always a good idea to remove metal jewelry before working on electrical work. Also don't work with sweaty hands as salt water is a much much better conductor than dry skin. This last one I learned the hard way. :)
Good advice. I always forget to take off my rings for my videos and have been called out on it many times. Also good advice; shut off the power so there’s no chance of a shock at all, regardless of rings, sweat, nuttin!
Great video. Simple and easy repair.
Thanks Kevin!
Thanks Terry. I just replaced a couple GFCI in the kitchen.
Thanks for watching White Tiger!
I know this is an old video but I've had to replace the outside GFI recyclable three times in a year ?
The ground wire to the houses breaker box are good also I have three wire Romex in the house and it's hooked up correctly to the GFI and its also underneath roofed in porch with a weatherproof case.......
That’s obviously not normal. It needs some hands-on trouble-shooting. What do you use that receptacle for? Is there something that you’re plugging in to it that causing the problems?
@@theinternetelectrician just some LED Christmas lights and one or two blow ups
The one that was installed lasted 2 years then this year it took a crap for Halloween then the new one took a crap with a Thanksgiving blow up turkey and now I just installed another new one for the Christmas lights.
My bathroom GFCI quit working (it is getting power, I have a voltage tester "pen" that flashes and beeps indicating power). I bought a new GFCI and installed. Only one wire leading to it, so made sure it was hooked up to "line" (and confirmed one I took out was wired to "line"). After turning breaker back on, checked the outlet and the red light was blinking indicating an "end of life" condition per the instruction sheet???? Pressing test and reset buttons did nothing. Plugged in a receptacle tester and no lights. What are the odds of buying a bad GFCI? Guess I will return it and try another one. I put the old one back in and it was still dead. Suppose if another new GFCI doesn't work, there is a bigger issue going on and may need to call someone. Though no clue what that issue could be. A light switch in the same wall box works fine.
Those non-contact voltage testers are way too unreliable to properly trouble-shoot this problem. Rub it through your hair and you'll see that you have the same indication of power in your head! You need a voltage tester, even a 2-wire neon tester at the least, but a multimeter would be best. I would guess that you have lost the neutral in the circuit? But it also could be the hot. Either in a bad connections or splice somewhere upstream, or at the breaker panel if this is the only device on the circuit. Get a proper tester, and I'll help you trouble-shoot this via photos and email, or with facetime or some video type call. internetelectrician@gmail.com and we can go from there.
@@theinternetelectrician Turns out it was a bad GFCI. Before taking it back to the store, I wired it up at another outlet and it still showed the blinking red light. Exchanged it for another GFCI and that one worked fine once I wired it up. Thank you for the offer to help. I do have a multimeter (came in a set with the pen and outlet tester) but when I tried using it as you show in the video, the display would jump around between random numbers and made no sense to me. Did this on another outlet I experimented on as well. I think there was a low battery indicator on the display so I'm guessing that had something to do with it. I didn't have another 9-volt to replace it with.
Thanks, Terry. I have a question. You turned off the power break in the first step. Why there is still 120V from the lines coming into the GFCI outlet?
Thank you so much. You saved me $283.00
After 8 years I had to replace my GFCI as it wasn't working. I only had B & W Lines wires coming in and no lLOAD going out. Simple fix. But the green proof light does not glow on the receptacle. I tested the outlet with a Klein brand receptacle tester and got two orange lights to glow proving all is correct. So why doesn't the green proof light glow on the receptacle? THUMBS UP!!!
Need to read the instructions to the receptacle. They all operate differently and the lights mean different things on different brands. (Yes, it's a pain - they aren't standardized).
Very explicit and helpful. Thanks
Thanks Len!
Hi and thank you for the video. I changed out our GFCI receptacle but it's not passing power through it still but power is going to it. What could be tripping it and how would we find out?
Not sure? Did you ensure your "line" and " load" terminals have the correct cable sets going to them? And that you didn't cross the neutral wires? Both neutral and hot supply must connect to the line, and same for the load.
@@theinternetelectrician Thank you Very much ! I just did a quick look see and yeah. I put the load on the line and etc. You saved me brother!
Peace °•○●□■
Some receptacles have their line terminals on the top and some are on the bottom. Even Leviton has reversed the locations over the years so you have to read the markings carefully when replacing old gfci receptacles and you may have to reverse the wires coming out of the box to match up the line to the line terminals on the new receptacle.
@@HeyNylo yea, I tried doing the old copy and paste method from the old receptacle and yea, they weren't the same.
Thanks,detailed explaination and replacement.
Thanks for watching and commenting MA dar!
Thanks for posting this video, but how can you identify which is line, power, daisy chain?
You have to do the testing with the wires all apart and off of the device. There's no simple way. If the device was installed correctly you just check what terminal pairs the wires on and make note of that and replace the same.
If the green light button keeps popping out after u push it in to work what does that mean I have a pool filter hooked up to it it goes on then pops after a couple seconds or minutes
You likely have a small ground fault in the pool filter pump.
Great video!! Everything went well for me but my face plate screws don’t lineup like yours. What do I do now? LOL
Fix it! (said the OCD electrician)
Thank you so much! Greatly appreciate your professionalism.
Happy to help!
Hey Terry, I have a pellet grill that keeps tripping my garage GFCI. The troubleshooting resource said old GFCIs have a "nuisance trip". Is this true? Could it be a sign the outlet is failing? I know it could be a number of things, I don't think I have anything else drawing a load on that circuit, but I'm still double checking. Thanks for the help!
Nuisance tripping is a "thing" for sure. But more likely that there is a fault in the pellet grill and whatever is the electrical component of it. Run an extension cord to another GFCI protected outlet and see if it trips it as well? If not, faulty outlet. If so, faulty component.
@@theinternetelectrician Thanks!
God bless you for always saving me $250!!!! My breaker was replaced but trips as well as no test/reset. Thoughts?
I have a question I was having a problem with the low-voltage turn out to be a powerline outside. My house was damaged and the power company replaced. today I discovered in my room, my ceiling, fan and light work the switch to the bathroom also works but the closet light and for outlets do not come on
I discovered a GFI switch, and when I press the reset button. It pops out immediately can Bad GFI switch. Really create no power to four outlets and a closet light
Hi Richard. Yes, a GFCI can go bad and need replacing. in all likelihood, whoever wired that circuit connected those outlets to the 'load' side of that GFCI outlet and that's why they are out. This could be corrected. When you change out the GFCI receptacle, you could pigtail the incoming feed and outgoing feeds to the 'line' side of the GFCI and not use the 'load' terminals. If you're not comfortable with doing this, hire an electrician to come take care of it for you. As always, safety first, and make certain the power is off if you take on this project yourself.
Super duper helpful Terry, thank you!!!
Thanks Boomer!
Great video! Will a faulty GFCI outlet still work but cause other receptacles to not work?
I would doubt it, but I've seen stranger things. I would have to do some "hands on" troubleshooting on this to be sure.
@@theinternetelectrician when my garage gfci trips, all the outlets behind it go down. I assuming the electrician who wire my garage put them in series instead of parallel.
Terry, gfi outlet trips in garage when sprinkler goes on. 2 separate circuits. Sprinkler on 1 & garage on other. Garage dr opener is on garage circuit. Has been wired this way from when house was new. If u can, please help
or do I need to call a electrician.
Hi Terry, thank you for your informative video. My question is why my GFCI outlet is not working; it has a solid red LED on. When I plugged a GFCI tester, nothing light up. The Circuit Line is hot when I tested it with a non-contact AC Voltage Detector. I even disconnected the Load line from the outlet. I greatly appreciated for any pieces of advice.
Your GCFI receptacle is faulty/defective and needs to be replaced
@@privateinformation9384 Yup, what you said!
I think I have a bad GFCI in my little RV trailer. I pulled it out of the box but it looks different. It is a sealed box with five wires coming out of it. Green wire for ground, a red (load) wire on the left side, a grey (load) wire on the right side, and a black and white wire coming out of the center. What does each wire do? It is marked as a dual pole.
My gfci outlet in my bathroom makes a faint crackling-like noise and is a bit warm, what do you recommend I do?
Check your connections for tightness and that its wired correctly. If that's not it, replace it!
UK electrician. We do 5 tests on gfci. 1x current, 5x current both sides of wave curve checking operating time. Then manual trip test. Never seen any testing USA, do you test & record any results. Plus unshielded probes on Fuke tester, taking a chance.
Hi Terry I have a saluspa Coleman hot tub. The gfci plug will not show red light on which means all good to use power wise/ safe! I have tested and reset this plug still no red light . Can u help me ?
Is the hot tub working? Does it trip when you hit test, and reset, but no red light, or doesn't work at all?
Terry Peterman Hi Terry it trips when I test and reset no red light but the hot tub works .
@@kimscalera6154 I would be inclined to believe that only the indicator light failed, and that the GFCI protection is still working then. But to be sure I would contact technical support at Coleman to see if they think it's a concern. Maybe they will send out a replacement cord? The other thing you could do would be to cut off that GFCI plug from the cord, put on a regular cord cap (plug), and then plug in to a GFCI receptacle. This is a solution if the tub is off warranty now as this would void your remaining warranty. I have a couple of those GFCI plug and cord units that I have accumulated from using inexpensive pool pumps to circulate my old hot tub that I had a propane heater on. I'd ship you out one if you'd like?!?
Hi terry thank you so much for your help ! The hot tub gfci plug is plugged into a gfci receptacle already. Initially this red light was working at prior uses . How important is it to have a breaker in our home breaker box dedicated to the hot tub ? My husband says it should not matter .
Kim Scalera then you are doubly protected for ground-fault so I wouldn’t worry about that. Those GFI plugs provide the protection so you don’t need to be plugged into a GFCI receptacle as well. It would be best if the tub was on its own circuit but if there’s not much else for loads on that circuit, then it’s ok. If it was a heavily used circuit, it would trip the breaker in the panel.
I have a treadmill on a GFCI circuit. It has worked for a number of years. Recently, the GFCI outlet broke and I replaced it. The circuit tester shows that I wired it correctly and the test and reset buttons work and I have power. I can turn on the treadmill, but as I increase the speed, the GFCI trips. Any thoughts?
Must have a more sensitive GFCI than the old one was. The treadmill must have a bit of "leakage" to ground.
@@theinternetelectrician thanks for the reply. Although the first GFCI was 20amp, it’s been sitting in the original box in my drawer. Don’t know if they go bad but I replaced it with a brand new one and it’s working fine.
@@laneemley5865 Yes, they can and do go bad. I've had faulty ones right from the factory. Both ones that don't trip on a ground fault, and ones that are too sensitive. You must have got the latter.
I wish I saw your video first. One thing you should discuss the fact that line side may vary in different receptacles.
Yes, I should have. But the 'line' and 'load' terminals are always identified, and new devices are sold with a bold colored tape covering the 'load' terminals.
@@theinternetelectrician I just bought new gfci outlet yesterday and there was NOT any tape covering the load side terminals.
Thank you, nicely explained.
Thanks for watching Freeze!
If you turned breaker off how did you get a volt reading?
Probably turned it back on!
Mine would not reset but after 24 hrs it did? Maybe moisture? I don't remember getting it wet?
@@hotwheel6663 Sounds like a moisture issue. If it happens again, use a hair dryer to speed up the drying and then you'll know if it was moisture or not.
You shut off the breakers but it still shows 120AC across the line. Is there something I'm missing? Shouldn't it be 0? Or did you turn it back on for your multimeter test?
It should be 0, or close to it. I'll have to watch again to see what you mean, but this is the first observation of this that I've seen in my comments.
@@theinternetelectrician Nevermind, you said you turned the breaker back on, I just missed that you said that.
I have two GFI's that went out for 2 upstairs bathrooms, is that normal that if one GFI goes out that the other one will go out also? The bathrooms were built back to back to each other so I'm guessing they share the same wiring somehow?
I didn’t get it. What did you do with those cables? You flipped them? Or you changed to new ones? Please explain in simple words step by step what did you do regarding the positions of these cables!
Hello Renan. I'm not sure what you don't understand, but I can try to explain. You have a cable coming in that is the power source. That goes to the "line" terminals, white (neutral), and black (hot). Then you have a cable that goes out to the rest of the circuit that you would want to be protected downstream of this GFCI, and you would connect those wires from that cable to the "load" terminals. The ground wires get spliced together along with pigtails to go to the box ground terminal (if applicable), and to the green grounding terminal of the receptacle. If this doesn't clarify things for you, I am available on PalTap for live video consultation at paltap.me/internetelectrician
I have 1900’s home that has circuits ungrounded. I replaced the beginning of the circuit with a new gfci outlet.
One that has 4 wires 2B 2W I tested and the B and W one that had power I put to the line. The B and W that tested nothing to the load to continue the circuit. No ground wire available.
The gfci outlet indicates red. It’s getting power, but plugging in something it won’t work. The next outlet on the same circuit does work. The reset nor test work. Solid red indicator light.
I feel I’ve hooked it up correctly. Lost on what to try other than another gfci.
Have you verified that you don't have a hot - neutral reverse on either the line or the load? You'll have to find an alternate ground reference to check this due to the fact that you have no grounding conductor. Use a copper water line if you can for a reference point and see if your black wire is really the hot wire or not.
What if you have one cable for load hot (black) and one neutral (white) will the gfi work. Also should test n reset buttons work before installing. The outlet itself is blocking the ability to plug anything in.
Awesome thanks I have the same problem I didn’t know about that line side and load side I have to recheck it because I’m still having it not resetting I have a outlet outside that should some corrosion but when replaced it with a new outlet the GFI inside still won’t reset maybe I have the line and loan wrong I will recheck thanks your info was helpful
Terry: nice video. Are there tools that you recommend for the average home owner? Electric multi meters? GFCI tester?
I install two new outlets in my welding machine they show a constant red light but they don't work, they also don't reset or nothing, do you know what could it be? I install them the same way they were wired
You need to carefully check that you have the line and load pairs wired correctly, and make certain that you didn't switch the neutrals so they aren't with the correct hot wire, line or load. This is a frequent mistake that we all have made at one time or another!
I have a similar receptacle tester with a button for testing GFCI's. At home; where all the GFCI's are no more then 3-5 years old they all pop when I push the tester button but at a rental apartment, although the two GFCI's supply power & will pop with their test buttons; they do not with my tester. So the question; is it possible for GFCI's to be bad yet test good with their test button ?
Maybe the tester tests in a less obvious way.
Of coarse , they are a breaker just like the breakers in panel but no failt recepticals or breakers trip by short not temp. As all normal breakers trip by heat. So all your tester doing is shorting out the np falt, if your tester good not shorted out , posibly your tester bad , some one shorted that part of tester out and it ruined it by melting the. Wire peice on the test botton. So check your recetical by volt meter , mash tbe receptical red botton, then test voltage in receptical with volt meter. If it still 120 v or 60v it a bad no fault receptical. But if it reads 0 v and nothing else on same circuit , use volt tester and check it again. If 0 v , reset receiptical and test it again with volt meter. If 120 v it working, if 60v or 0 it bad. 60 volt means there other recepticals or a light on same circuit on neutral side. That why your neutral reads 60 v add or take away 3-5 volts. If it says 63 or higher your wiring is to small and causing a power drop. That raises power bills plus causes ref, ac's, etc to drop out and restart after relays and coils cool off or some stay off snd gives few more volts on your circuit it come back on because voltage drop corrected above 3 volt drop then when other kick on, your circut drops out because the 3 volt drop again. All tbat is because wire to small for service or circuits. Remember all circuits from msin service breaker must be 100 feet distance or less for circuit . If between 101-199 feet distance use next size bigger eire for that circuit, if 200-299 feet distance use 2 size biger wire on tbe circuit. Continue as further distance , the biger wire size.
What if you put a Voltage tester in the gfci And it tests power but it won't reset, would it be the gfci that went bad?
Could be, or it also could be that the wires are mixed up with line and load, etc. Thanks for watching!
If you forgot which cable you took off the load side. Do it matter which cable go on the line or load terminal?
Yes it does. The live (hot) wire and its associated neutral go to the Line and the other ones go to the Load, if you want to protect downstream outlets. If not, they all go to the Line.
Hello, just replaced a 20yr Gfci in garage. A little green light appears when I hook it up ,but it provides no power,or tripping ability. Thought i hooked up black wire as hot and white a gnds. Is it possible that the hot wires were hooked up incorrect.any input appreciated
Some receptacles have their line terminals on the top and some are on the bottom. Even Leviton has reversed the locations over the years so you have to read the markings carefully when replacing old gfci receptacles and you may have to reverse the wires coming out of the box to match up the line to the line terminals on the new receptacle.
I have multiple gfci outlets in my house that constantly trip. Like if you use it, 75% of the time its gonna trip. It trips at the outlet, not the breaker box. The outlets are on different breakers, 1s in kitchen, 1s in garage, 1s in bathroom. Light bulbs in my house go out constantly to. House is only 10 years old. Any idea what might be causing this? Thanks alot for any info
That's a strange one, but it must be due to a connection problem, and likely in your panel on the main wires coming in. You need to get in a good trouble-shooting electrician and have them check and test, check all connection lugs on the main breaker, the neutral connections, and maybe then you will need the utility supply to pull the meter and check in the meter socket and / or the connections at the transformer. To affect multiple circuits and outlets, this is all I can think of.
Thank you sir
Isn't it good safety practice to NOT wear metallic jewelry when working around electricity? (Even if the power is "off".)
Yes, you are correct. But I seem to always forget to remove them! However, the careful electricians still have all their fingers (and toes) as do I! (Touch wood, 58 years and counting)
Great video - I have one question. Isn't that a 15 amp GFI that you replaced? Is that ok to put in a 20 amp circuit? Thanks for your help.
Yes it is. The same goes for regular receptacles as long as it is a duplex (2 places to plug in) receptacle. If a single receptacle was used on a 20 amp circuit, then it would have to be a 20 amp receptacle. Single receptacles are primarily used in a dedicated circuit. GFCI's don't come in single version.
Thanks. This will be useful when I buy a house.
Thanks for watching!
I recently noticed the gfci in my bathroom was making a faint buzzing noise. Pressing Test stopped it and it wasn't doing it after I reset. First time that's happened. The bathroom tends to get humid. Should I replace it? Is it a fire hazard?
If I don’t have the plug 🔌, this GFCI is for my jet tub. Is it enough that test button stops the tub? And reset turns it back on.
You have what we call a faceless GFCI. Yes, if the test and reset work and the pump stops, that's a sufficient test, and is what you're supposed to do on a monthly basis. Keep up the good work! Thanks for watching.
When you unscrewed the 2 neutral lines why didn’t you remove the second neutral line from the screw? And at 5:08 cant tell how to put the wire in is the screw go THROUGH the wire? (your hand is in the way)
He didn't remove the wire because it was only a demonstration of what needed to be done in order to fix this type of problems. He never replaced the existing outlet, but he showed the steps needed to do so.
Terry, It looks like the gfci is 15 amp.on 20 amp circuit.Why is that?
GFCI receptacles are duplex types (2 receptacles in one device), so a 15 A GFCI can be installed on a 20A circuit with no issue. The only time that a 20A GFCI must be used is where a device with a 20A plug will be connected. Thanks for watching!
Thank you soo much,wife will be surprised lol.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching! I hope that you also subscribed to my channel, and clicked the bell? Much appreciated!
I find your video helpful! As ive followed instructions exactly as you showed and replaced the gfci the same was as i took out the other one. But this outlet has 3 hot wires, 3 nuetrals, and a ground and it’s getting power but wont trip. Please help.
You have a power feed in, and two feeds out of that box then. What we need to know is what else is being fed from there and what (if any) of the other devices that you want to be GFCI protected.
I have 2 gfci's on the same circuit.both have stopped working and reset buttons do not work and no circuit breakers are out.I checked the outlets and they both say open hot.
probably a loose line wire on upstream receptacle
You need to open up those outlets and look for the problem. Safety first, shut off the power. You will likely find a poor termination on one of the receptacles.
my patio recepticle is loose(moisture could have entered the box) so I will see if it works but my main issue is neither the bath or kitchen gfi recepticle will not click if I press either the test or reset button like above and both the indoor gfi outlets however they will both light up a lamp for me, when press the top button (red-reset) on the gfi, the lamp goes out and when I release pressure on the top (red-reset) button the lamp gets power again and relights. So I hope its as simple as replacing the cfi's. They are probably 30 yrs old.
and I will recaulk around the outside patio outside outlet if everything works ok out there to protect from moisture
Interesting. Mine has four wires on the line side and nothing attached to the load side.
That would indicate that whatever else is fed on that circuit doesn't require GFCI protection, or they wired it wrong.
The instructions in this video only work if you already know which breaker supplies power to the failed outlet. Many houses are not clearly labeled at the breakers. Here is an alternate procedure that works better:
Take the outlet cover off while the power is still turned on at the breaker. Stick a non-contact voltage tester into the box to locate the hot live wire from the breaker. Have a second person go turn off the breaker while you watch the voltage tester to see when power is cut. Continue the remaining steps as shown in this video.
Good plan. But I just turned off the main power. I don't always trust the non-contact voltage tester I have.
Hi there ,good video .Can fgi get weak and sometimes they trip ? i have a recirculating pump on my bathroom and sometimes i find the gfi tripped , reset it and it works but a couple of days later same thing. thanks
They are very sensitive, so more than a 'weak' device, I would say that the pump has a bit of leakage, maybe when the moisture and / or humidity is high enough to affect the pump is when you get this nuisance tripping?
I replaced two failed gfci outlets on our cabin, they were still giving power to the outlets on the device itself and one downstream outlet each. They just couldn’t trip or be reset.
I just replaced a gfci in my bathroom. The outlet test and reset work and the green light comes on, however anything I plug in does not work. Any ideas?
My GFCI outlet in my bathroom won't turn off. Everytime I touch the Reset button it pops right back out. Also the light on the GFCI won't turn off. It stays orange. Also the area where the orange light is is kind of hot. The outlet is not hot but just the area where the orange light is at. My house isn't going to catch on fire right? Lol.... Is the light being on a bad thing?
The tiny orange indicator light will put out some heat, so that may be normal, but your GFCI needs to be replaced or it is somehow connected wrong with a line/load mix-up. It could also just plain be faulty. I’ve had them not work properly right out of the box. Not exactly a “dangerous” situation, but get it remedied.
@@theinternetelectrician Thanks for the help and the advice.
Wait what is this stone called is it agate?
My GFIC tripped today for the first time in
years. The only things on it are some outlets and an outdoor light. My Washing
machine is plugged into one outlet. It is the outdoor light that is tripping
it. When I turn the light switch off the GIFC doesn’t turn off. I checked
everything from the light switch to the light bulb. All connections are good
and there is no moisture. What now?
Sorry so late getting back to you on this. Did you figure out what the problem was?
if 20A, why is receptacle not T-shape?
Lots of devices are rated up to 20A but not T-slot. It's one of the code rules and manufacturing specs that are flexible on 15 and 20A circuits.
What if the gfci constantly pops off? Does that mean it's faulty?
605 Central Time Chicago Illinois, I just put in a new gfci in my basement bathroom, it's 2wire black is hot side white land side, turned the power back on,I get the green light that comes on,green light stays on try to test and reset it won't reset button won't push in, both button won't push in
Very helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for watching Rich!
Easy to follow instructions.
I just bought a new 20 amp outlet gfi. It is wired correctly but still does not work.
I can't really provide an answer here without some trouble-shooting. You will need a voltage tester, or better yet, a multi meter.
Nice video, only thing you missed was explaining the line gauge on the back of the receptacle.Often wires may need clipped and stripped.
Good input! Thanks for watching Somkeydabee!
Mines trips breaker but turns power on the lower plug. When I press the reset then it trips the breaker??
Took it off and when I press the reset, it sounds like there’s a loose spring noise??
Hmm, sorry I missed this comment from 2 years ago! Did you figure out the problem?
Had a GFCI also trip on my garage, has 2 standard outlets linked. When removed the in LINE had 2 black wires and the back was melted. Checked the LOAD voltage and read 158.9. Advice?
Call a plumber lol. Im no electrician but saw your comment. I would pull all the outlets in the house and make sure they are wired properly.
You can also measure voltage without pulling the receptacle out. If you measure 120ish you can assume they are wired right and move on to the next. Once they are all wired right go back and check to see if your 158 is corrected.
You found the problem post us your solution.
@@BWeezy-sw1wy called a electrician, he was messing with it for two hours , He said " I can NOT find any reason as to why the GFCI should not have worked" besides adding a new breaker and starting from scratch, that was a 1400$ quote or leave the standard outlet and pay labor $200.
Hi my gfci is not working and it has a color yellow light. I pushed the reset button and test button and it doesnt click. I turn off the gfci on the main breaker and still not working.
Can I just shut off the main breaker? Wicked nervous 😬
Yes, turning off the main breaker is a bulletproof way to ensure your safety. Often, individual circuit breakers are mislabeled. Of course you should always use a volt meter to check if you are just turning off an individual circuit breaker. And for that matter, even if you turn off the main, double check with a voltage meter. They cost under $10.
Thanks for the tutorial
Thanks for watching!