FYI WARNING for anyone removing the big flat pressure pillow switch held on by 5 bolts. Always push down and slide back and forth to gently break the stuck o-rings loose from the valve body before attempting to lift off. As seen in this video they will rip out of the switch housing and be stuck to the valve body. This could damage or crack the thin plastic film that "SEALS" the switch holes. Probably would be best to buy a new pressure switch but it might be salvageable by inspecting for any cracks in the film and re-installing the film and o-rings back into the switch holes but you can't just plop them on the hole they have to be carefully installed with a pick ensuring to get the bottom lip of the o-ring down underneath the switch hole plastic body.
Loved your video. Lol I just bought all the rest of the reamers to do all the valves. Never used them yet but will soon. I just don't want to wait on parts
@@IrocinZ sonnax does some great valvebodys so I wouldn't hesitate using there's. I was surprised it didn't come with the pinless accumulator in it because they just left another wear part in it
Smitty I did some comparisons,, there is no difference in the 94/95 transmission case/. there is a difference in the seperator plates and the pumps.. the 95 has 2 extra holes that the 94 seperator plate doesnt have ., the 95 pump has a circuit in it that the 94 pump does not.. other than that, .. the 95 wiring harness will plug into a 94, and vice versa.. the 95 has one extra wire, to control the PWM circuit.
@@IrocinZ maybe just a coincidence since I seen the Missouri plates on your wall and this guy rebuilds transmission goes by smittybuilt just thought maybe it was you. Either way keep up with the videos they’re awesome I’m about to tackle my 4l70e from my trailblazer ss. The fluid was burnt and nasty but the transmission was doing all kinds of strange things!! It would lose every gear like it was put into neutral yet I could put it in park shut it off and restart it and be able to drive it again for a few miles then it would lose all gears again. I watched your videos and tore my down along with you and I must say your videos helped me out a lot. Thanks again!!
@@kyleburt442 Great! Your neutral was caused by a plugged filter most likely from debris. Make sure to pay close attention to your pump. Its probably got some scoring to it....
Hey sir I have a couple questions I don't really feel like removing my valve body and changing the gasket yet but want to change at least what I can with the pan off. Can I use a sonnax pinless 1-2 accumulator and leave my 3-4 stock for now is that gonna mess with anything? Also is there some test you do when changing to a Corvette servo how do you know or feel confident the snap ring is fully seated after install? Also which 4l60e valve bodies usually have that service imprint which vehicles?
On the first question..Yes, you can change just the 1-2 accumulator. On question 2, are you talking about the cushion spring or the cover? Either way, you'll know just by looking if it's not seated all of the way. On the valvebodies, the only ones that will say "serv" is if they were remaned by GM and either sold over the counter, or came in one of their remans called a SRTA, or Service Replacement Transmission Assembly.
@@IrocinZ question 2 just asking about my 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator pistons also should I use the sonnax spring with the pinless 1-2 piston I think it's orange? Or should I use OE spring on that? I have a 2001 4l60e by the way.
smitty, my 93 4l60e has a one piece TCC Isolator valve and no spring.. is this right, also I want to block it off. my kit has a long stiff spring in it, and im thinking the one piece valve goes in first then the stiff spring?
@@IrocinZ my thinking based on limited understanding is if the valve cant oscillate, its less likely to wear, and leak fluid. a great builder once told me, hydraulic pressure rise malfunction is the true killer in automatic transmissions. He is gone now,. he rebuilt my trans 10 years ago. I did the first service a few days ago, I havent put alot of miles on it, but when I do, its usually towing a heavy boat.. when I pulled the pan, there wasnt enough material in there to fill half of a sewing thimble.. the fluid was a lighter shade of red.purple and still looked pretty good. the filter had minimal debris on it. so to make a long story short, im trying to minimize pressure leaks . thanks .
smitty what state are you in? would u consider coming to central texas to give training classes., hands on. I have a nice air conditioned workshop , plenty of tools. I can put u in a nice hotel, and feed you thick t bone steaks, whataburger, and bluebell ice cream. show you around some. I have a 95 4l60e and a chrysler a500 I need to do.. I have the transmission bench video series and the ATSG book on the A500.
@@IrocinZ I see a ton of video of people working on 95 on valve bodies explaining about the worn bore repair with the reamer and over sized or stronger spring but nothing at all about a 93/94 valve body I really don’t know what to do with mine sorta stuck on what to do with it no PWM so so worn valve bore ?
@@Trifiveguy I so happen to have a 94 also. Specifically bought it for the no PWM for a project I'm working on. I have not done a video on it yet. You can call Sonnax if you have questions. They have a very good tech dept...
Dude if you twist the presure switch a little back and forth , dont pull it straight up off the valve body you wont pull the sensor out of the switch like you did. They woll break free from the valve body. And come off easy with no damage.
thanks for the vid, im attempting my first 4l60e rebuild..
Good luck!
From Puerto Rico thanks!!!🙋🏻♂️
You are the most consistent small Chanel if ever seen keep it up 👍
Big thanks!
The more information the better in my eyes. I love watching this stuff.
Fantastic! Thank You!
Thanks for sharing. From Brazil!
Thanks for watching!!
Thank you very much.. Just what I needed to put my 4L60E valve body back together in proper order.
Your welcome!
I appreciate the step by step thorough work nice video.
Thanks brother! I'm glad it helped!
FYI WARNING for anyone removing the big flat pressure pillow switch held on by 5 bolts. Always push down and slide back and forth to gently break the stuck o-rings loose from the valve body before attempting to lift off. As seen in this video they will rip out of the switch housing and be stuck to the valve body. This could damage or crack the thin plastic film that "SEALS" the switch holes. Probably would be best to buy a new pressure switch but it might be salvageable by inspecting for any cracks in the film and re-installing the film and o-rings back into the switch holes but you can't just plop them on the hole they have to be carefully installed with a pick ensuring to get the bottom lip of the o-ring down underneath the switch hole plastic body.
You are correct! Great info that I left out. Thanks! (Although I was replacing this one...)
Loved your video. Lol I just bought all the rest of the reamers to do all the valves. Never used them yet but will soon. I just don't want to wait on parts
I will also, but it was the customers call and it was cheaper to get the valvebody already done....
@@IrocinZ sonnax does some great valvebodys so I wouldn't hesitate using there's. I was surprised it didn't come with the pinless accumulator in it because they just left another wear part in it
Smitty I did some comparisons,, there is no difference in the 94/95 transmission case/. there is a difference in the seperator plates and the pumps.. the 95 has 2 extra holes that the 94 seperator plate doesnt have ., the 95 pump has a circuit in it that the 94 pump does not.. other than that, .. the 95 wiring harness will plug into a 94, and vice versa.. the 95 has one extra wire, to control the PWM circuit.
That sounds right...Great information!
Are you from the bloomsdale area? I feel like ive met you many years ago when you rebuilt a trans for a buddy of mine.
Not even sure where Bloomsdale is...lol
@@IrocinZ maybe just a coincidence since I seen the Missouri plates on your wall and this guy rebuilds transmission goes by smittybuilt just thought maybe it was you. Either way keep up with the videos they’re awesome I’m about to tackle my 4l70e from my trailblazer ss. The fluid was burnt and nasty but the transmission was doing all kinds of strange things!! It would lose every gear like it was put into neutral yet I could put it in park shut it off and restart it and be able to drive it again for a few miles then it would lose all gears again. I watched your videos and tore my down along with you and I must say your videos helped me out a lot. Thanks again!!
@@kyleburt442 Great! Your neutral was caused by a plugged filter most likely from debris. Make sure to pay close attention to your pump. Its probably got some scoring to it....
Hey sir I have a couple questions I don't really feel like removing my valve body and changing the gasket yet but want to change at least what I can with the pan off. Can I use a sonnax pinless 1-2 accumulator and leave my 3-4 stock for now is that gonna mess with anything? Also is there some test you do when changing to a Corvette servo how do you know or feel confident the snap ring is fully seated after install? Also which 4l60e valve bodies usually have that service imprint which vehicles?
On the first question..Yes, you can change just the 1-2 accumulator. On question 2, are you talking about the cushion spring or the cover? Either way, you'll know just by looking if it's not seated all of the way. On the valvebodies, the only ones that will say "serv" is if they were remaned by GM and either sold over the counter, or came in one of their remans called a SRTA, or Service Replacement Transmission Assembly.
@@IrocinZ question 2 just asking about my 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator pistons also should I use the sonnax spring with the pinless 1-2 piston I think it's orange? Or should I use OE spring on that? I have a 2001 4l60e by the way.
@@robpaul7900 Depending on shift feel. The tighter the spring, the quicker the shift feel.
smitty, my 93 4l60e has a one piece TCC Isolator valve and no spring.. is this right, also I want to block it off. my kit has a long stiff spring in it, and im thinking the one piece valve goes in first then the stiff spring?
Why do you want to block it off? The 93 is an on-off model and is not PWM
@@IrocinZ my thinking based on limited understanding is if the valve cant oscillate, its less likely to wear, and leak fluid. a great builder once told me, hydraulic pressure rise malfunction is the true killer in automatic transmissions. He is gone now,. he rebuilt my trans 10 years ago. I did the first service a few days ago, I havent put alot of miles on it, but when I do, its usually towing a heavy boat.. when I pulled the pan, there wasnt enough material in there to fill half of a sewing thimble.. the fluid was a lighter shade of red.purple and still looked pretty good. the filter had minimal debris on it.
so to make a long story short, im trying to minimize pressure leaks . thanks .
smitty what state are you in? would u consider coming to central texas to give training classes., hands on. I have a nice air conditioned workshop , plenty of tools. I can put u in a nice hotel, and feed you thick t bone steaks, whataburger, and bluebell ice cream. show you around some. I have a 95 4l60e and a chrysler a500 I need to do.. I have the transmission bench video series and the ATSG book on the A500.
If you can come, will pay your gas money, hotel. and meals. also 150.00 a day.
Why isn’t there any pre PWM valve body videos
Are you referring to the early 4L60e's? On the TCC PWM?
@@IrocinZ I see a ton of video of people working on 95 on valve bodies explaining about the worn bore repair with the reamer and over sized or stronger spring but nothing at all about a 93/94 valve body I really don’t know what to do with mine sorta stuck on what to do with it no PWM so so worn valve bore ?
@@Trifiveguy I so happen to have a 94 also. Specifically bought it for the no PWM for a project I'm working on. I have not done a video on it yet. You can call Sonnax if you have questions. They have a very good tech dept...
Dude if you twist the presure switch a little back and forth , dont pull it straight up off the valve body you wont pull the sensor out of the switch like you did. They woll break free from the valve body. And come off easy with no damage.
I usually replace them on my builds anyway, but you are correct.
Bro are you sure what you’re doing because you keep dropping parts.
I'm getting old...lol. If my brain wasn't attached in my head, I'd probably drop it too!...🤣