I have said the same thing, this guy is easily worth ten times what they are paying him, no matter how much that is. He is the very reason I come here.
I definitely think you would have to scour the earth for a more likable personality in a spokes person. Plus he's a guitar player. As Paul Gilbert once said, "if aliens ever tried to take over the planet, they'd come down and realize guitar players were all so awesome that they'd just leave us all alone".
We are lucky to have you on RUclips. Warmoth is lucky to have you in their company. We are glad you are here and doing this. These videos are one of the best things to come out of this quarantine situation.
I think different frets in different necks make a lot of difference too. My jackson dinky has medium jumbo frets and a very very thin neck, and the frets feel huge, and my kramer 84 has a pretty big neck with medium frets, and the frets feel so tiny that I'll have to replace them soon with 6100s.
This was a great video thank you for it. I bought a Wolfgang roasted maple neck a few months ago and bought it blind turns out I like it but it isn’t what I wanted. I like a regular neck but standard thin confused me to think it was shred thin. No please go back to work and finish my order of body and neck I’m waiting for
So this may be a question that no one can answer, but how does the SRV profile compare with PRS's Pattern Vintage? Some day I'm going to get a new neck for my Tele and I'm thinking SRV, roasted maple, stainless steel frets, and a GraphTech nut. I have a PRS 594 and I really like the neck on it.
I don't usually write comments but anyone who puts down Aaron is an idiot. This is one of the best done, most informative and detailed channels out there! As an essential employee I am ever grateful to come home each day to unwind to a relaxing, informative and sometimes hilarious Warmoth video! Please keep doing what you do man, you're an inspiration to us in these times and your videos ARE ALWAYS top notch! 👌 plus you are the most chill, coolest dude ever! The comparison videos you do are THE gold standard and even my gf watches your videos and has subscribed to your channel! Now THAT'S impressive! You should also keep a record of the comments that inspire you and spur you on to keep doing what you do and keep making amazing content and music🎶! Cheers from halfway around the world (Caribbean) to an incredible human being, not to mention amazing guitar player! ❤
@@Riverdeepnwide agreed! No leaving of warmoth is allowed! How else will we get our dose of Aaron doing cool things with awesome guitar parts? When this thing is all over, I will definitely miss having an Aaron video to look forward to everyday 😕
Literally all Americans I know want the metric system and agree that it's better, all my teachers growing up would shit on the imperial system, we just use it anyways lol
Great video, as always. Btw, the metric nut width measurements (in order of smallest to largest) are as follows: 41.275 mm (1 5/8") (I think of this as "41") 41.91 mm (1.650") (I think of this as "42") 42.8625 mm (1 11/16") (I think of this as "43") 44.45 mm (1 3/4") (I think of this as "45") 47.625 mm (1 7/8") (I think of this as "47" even though it is more accurately “48”.) I'm not surprised you couldn't remember: they don't translate very well in either direction. Keep up the good work!
Hi! Well done! Just to say you don't need that kind of precision on millimeters so: 41.275 = 41 41.91 = 42 42.8625 = 43 44.45 = 45 47.625 = 48 Very easy to remember this way.
Was happy to see you guys did the shootout of 25.5" vs 24.75" scale. When this covid stuff blows over, I'd love to see you guys do a shootout between standard placement for a neck pickup and 24-fret reposition.
You're right and that was the reasoning for wanting the U.S. to convert to the metric system, but like he said, the cost of retooling all of our manufacturing plants was prohibitive for the change. I feel for auto mechanics as they will run in to both on cars these days.
Any system of measurement is only as precise as the person using it. The imperial system is "more precise" in my mind, because it's what I've used all my life and I understand it perfectly. I know exactly what 1.6875 is without even thinking about it. I still sometimes have to go to Google to remind myself what 43mm is in inches. If the rest of the world used imperial and the US used metric, the arguments would almost invariably be flipped.
I’m Canadian. In my job I have to know both. Always converting. No big deal. Both systems of measurement are sexy in their own way. Weird I know. 4 thou of an inch = 0.1 mm....I can go on. For neck relief my good set of Hosco gauges are metric. Humans, including the Americans learn what they need to get what they want. When you want your guitar to be “just right” you become pragmatic.
Kinda.. every metric bolt is made wrong, you can get a 10mm bolt and another 10mm bolt from another company and they are both a slight bit different size.
I have purchased 5 Warmoth necks in the past 20 years, and you you guys have made it very difficult for me to buy a guitar. Most guitars feel poor by comparison. Recently, I tried a custom guitar made by a nationally recognized luthier with a price tag of $2700, and was pleased to discover that my partscasters equaled or exceeded it for playability. My favorite profiles are the standard thin and SRV, and thank you for introducing me to canary wood it has a wonderful feel unfinished.
As a drafter and machinist, I also wish we were on metric. And I absolutely loathe decimal inches, you can't measure them with the average ruler/tape measure.
darkiee69 - I think that was the joke, taking the piss out of imperial fractions based on 16ths and 64ths, etc. At least measuring in conventional Metric fractions doesn't end up sounding like we're talking about musical notation.
My dilemma is that I don't want to commit to a replacement neck for my Strat without knowing if I'm going to like the neck profile. This might sound like a crazy solution, but if you were able to offer for a reasonable price a "pick and choose three pack" of plastic neck molds, I would totally purchase that to see which one I like best. I might choose the Standard thin, Clapton and SRV necks for example. Once I can put my hand on it, even a cheap plastic mold and no strings, I think I would know enough to remove the doubt and make a decision. Just a thought.
I used to work in biotech, and toxicology, and everything is metric in science, so learning it is a requirement. I worked my way up from running CNC machines to running the entire CNC machine shop, so decimal inch is second nature, and fractions are just automatically converted to decimal inch. It's easy once you're used to it.
Excellent. Long live this ninja turtle! Metric system plus guitars = MM mastery like noah's ark and the ark of the covenant, amongst other things built in the ratios that please, i am is well pleased with this. My neck preference is the widest nut @ 48MM for a 6 string, and the fat back like a thick flat shape that looks like a solid rectangle. Also i prefer anything but maple. Such as Bubinga, Ovangkol, mahogany ebony or rosewood as a neck wood with a bright fretboard. However i love high grade bird's eye maple as a fretboard. And maple as a back or top are great as well. Although i would prefer a richer tonewood like myrtle, douglas fir or burled anything even poplar or other as a top and keep a maple back on it. copper brass alloy sheet adds tone to a top or at least an interesting sound in the highs. oh well thats all. Body cores that sound great are Poplar, Redwood, Cedar, Red spruce, Swamp Ash, Mahogany, Alder, there are many more like douglas fir etc. Lacewood is interesting as a body and def leopard guitarist loves it. bye can't wait to build my next Warmoth.
I have the worst problem in the world - small hands with sausage fingers! 1-11/16ths is the smallest I like for comfort/fretting, but that's where I start to lose the ability to use my thumb on the low E. Yes, I know, first world problems. Maybe I should switch to 5-string banjo.
They've been trying to turn the United States into Europe with the metric system as long as I can remember... I prefer SAE (Standard Automotive Engineers) or Standard.
Good video again! I am from europe and we only use metrics, but if you tell me that fingerboard radius is 30.48cm, I have no idea how it feels. But I get it right away, if you tell me its 12". Thats just the name fot it and no neee to chanche that.
Are you familiar with Art & Luthier? The neck on my Legacy model is the best profile I've ever felt...it's life changing! It also features a 1.72" Nut Width. If you are familiar with this, what Warmoth profile is closest?
I have big hands and fat fingers - my preferred neck width is 45-46mm. Unfortunately, Warmoth don't do anything in this size range - 1 3/4" is 44.5mm and the Superwide 1 7/8" neck is 47.8mm. So how about a 1 13/16th" = 46mm neck? BTW, from the configurator, it also looks like it's not possible to have the Superwide neck fully scalloped. PS. Keep up the great work, Aaron - your intelligent, informed, detailed and objective vids are among the best out there.
1 5/8 is the answer to life, the universe, and everything A couple of questions: what about a Floyd rose with the compound radius, shouldn’t the radius of the saddles match? Any chance of a soft V to C neck profile like the EJ strat?
@@jhanc8365 The anwser is a 47 mill nut. Like on the great Brian May red special. Fretting chords at the neck is a dream. Especially if you have thick fingers. I tried playing a tele recently. And I couldnt hold down a B7 chord without fouling the strings even a C chord was a problem. On the May Red Special. Never had this problem. I need at LEAST a 43 mill nut or its unplayable for chord work for me.
Thanks for that Aaron! I am also a child of the 70s and I did relate to your comments about the time. Once I discovered Warmoth, there was no turning back. All of my F style guitars are Warmoth. I had actual Fenders but they were all paling in comparison with my Warmoth guitars and were moved on. By now I have seven Warmoth guitars (and a few necks) and these are the guitars that I play and gig all of the time because they feel right and they sound right (despite quite a few others in the stable). My favourite neck profile is actually fatback. It sits so good in my hands (and I don't have huge hands) that makes most other guitars feel a bit meh. I am also madly in love with roasted maple necks - so good! I don't want to have laqucer ever again on a neck. I recall one particular time that, I think, is very characteristic of the company that Warmoth is - I am based in Germany and getting exotic woods shipped is a bit of a production. So, I had ordered a neck with a Rosewood fingerboard and had to do all the CITES paperwork. A person from Warmoth got in touch with me to help - she was super helpful and very patient, despite all of my ignorance - that was Sandy Hosfelt. We had a nice E-Mail exchange and it all turned out to be good. But it was only years later that it occurred to me that she is the actual CEO of Warmoth - How cool is that! It definitely made me appreciate he company even more. If I hadn't run out of space at home, I'd have another dozen Warmoth guitars ... but for now, I'll rock my Warmoth guitars during lock down! Thanks for everything - you guys are doing great work and what you put out is second to none!
Another great video man! I got two necks of 1 11/16” nut width with 59 and standard thin respectively, love them both. Thanks for bringing up the relationship of nut width and neck shape, really helps a lot on my next build!
Thank you for these videos, I love them! If is not too much to ask, is it possible for you to make a video on how exactly one affects the other (nut width & neck profile)? For instance: “if you use the widest nut with a modern C, this and this will happen” or “if you use a fat neck with the narrowest nut, your fingers will struggle to reach the 6th string”... something like that, I don’t know hehe Greetings from Costa Rica, and thanks again!
Thank you for this video very helpful. I ordered 2 necks (standard thin, 25-1/2", 1-11/16" nut) with same fret size one for strat and one for tele. The strat neck is perfect. The tele neck is noticeably fatter than the strat neck. Is this due variance in production or are there inherent differences between strat and tele necks?
I called Warmoth today to ask a Nut Width question and you guys are obviously closed. This is pleasantly ironic. Hoping my question is answered here. So my question is how does the spacing of the strings change based on the nut width? Does it change the thickness of the neck as well or just the but itself?
Is 42mm the end result on a 1.65” nut, or is it just shy of that like the 1.650” suggests? Asking because Ibanez uses 42-43mm nuts, which are different than Fender nut widths.
Look forward to these vids every day... I landed a warmoth wizard profile neck with 6100 frets and a 1 11/16" (aka 43mm) nut width, and fell in love with it. It reminds me alot of an old roadstar II neck I had years ago , with the added benefits of higher frets and better string spacing at the nut. BTW I was 5 yrs old during the bicentennial, and remember how great that time was .
I would also love an episode on the nuts themselves! I retrofitted an Earvana on a Strat years ago and I absolutely fell in love with REALLY being in tune so much that my dream guitar would've included a Floyd, but now I'm looking at locking tuners and an original tuner-less Floyd JUST because I love the Earvana so much!
Guitar necks are the most difficult to personalize. There are so many options to think about and all influence the feel of the neck and how it will play. Here’s a list I came up with in my latest guitar journey quest: 1. Scale length. Super important! 2. Neck width 3. Neck thickness 4. Neck shape profile 5. Fret sizes 6. Fret material 7. Fretboard radius 8. Finish and wood choice All these factors have an impact! 15 years ago I had no idea why one guitar played better than the other. Now with Google and RUclips I learned so many things! I bought guitars and sold them and then tried out other guitars. Every guitar I write down all the measurements. By doing so I learn which options suits me best. This is what I discovered thus far: 1. Shorter scale length works best for me. 25.5 and up is too long for me. It is causing me wrist pain 2. That being said shorter scale means also less fret space. That I have to compromise with smaller frets. So I prefer smaller fret size, medium-jumbo 3. Evo gold frets work best for me soundwise and feelwise and also very durable. 4. I prefer satin neck finish because it is smooth to play 5. Walnut neck and maple fretboard 6. Neck not too thick and not too thin. How thick exactly I’m not sure yet because nut width and neck profile also plays a big part! 7. Because I play 7-string the nut width has to be not longer than 1.889/48mm. The Kiesel DC700 I have right now is wider with 48,5 mm/1.91 inch and it makes the neck for me more difficult to play 8. Fretboard radius between 14-20. Still not sure which one exactly becaise other factors play a part too! The only thing left for me is neck profile. I tried several but still not sure which I like the most.
When you remember the 1-5/8 is 1.625 it makes the 1.650 easier to grasp. I love the 1-3/4 or 1.750 nut width myself, I play a little fingerstyle and occasionally jazz and it’s just easier to navigate through chords. I’ve been wanting to build a mahogany HH Tele for a while and when I actually get ahead money wise I’m going to get the neck and body from Warmoth. It’s great that you can get exactly what you want from them and build up a guitar that is exactly what you want.
I love Warmoth. I don’t understand why more electric guitars don’t use a 1 3/4 nut. I have large hands and I have a bit of arthritis at this point in my life. The 1 3/4 nut feels so much more comfortable to play.
@@thebigleone1066 Yeah. I started with classical guitar training so I get used to wide nut width when I play with nylon string by finger. But in electric guitar with pick, it is a lot different. I have to sold my Parker Nitefly because the Nut width is much wider than my old Charvel, Ibanez which I feel really comfortable. My hand is small Asian guy's hand (164 cm height only). So that may be the main reason. Totally personal thing, I believe
A suggestion comment for what it's worth, since niche/custom is where Warmoth surely dominates. I love Warmoth's short scale guitars and I also love a Floyd Rose. There's a problem; Floyd string spacing puts the E strings too close to fretboard edges on shorter scale instruments no matter what nut width. How do some other manufacturers seem to get over this? They make the fretboard a bit wider at the 22/24 fret by like 1mm or so, often because they are not bound to a standard Fender pocket fit they have some latitude there. Maybe keeping the pocket dimensions same ol' Fender size but offering a slightly wider fretboard (necessarily overhanging at the sides by the smallest amount) would allow short scale players to have their Floyd string spacing too. The difference in neck width along 90% of the neck would be imperceptibly different. Nearer the bridge though, that extra dimension would be a real advantage. What do you think?
@@schmoemi3386 right the 7/8th or anything else 24.75" scale with a 56mm-fretboard-at-the-pocket in my opinion can't avoid this issue to an extent that bothers me, and the Mustang/Jazzstang at 24" scale I guess would have similar issues for similar reasons. You could say the cause is that Floyd trems don't have adjustable string spacing (they don't) or that some players don't notice a problem (if you don't play much at the high end of the neck). Some people have this problem on even full scale 25.5" Fender size neck and go for 'narrow spacing' bridges to avoid strings being too close to the fretboard edges. A quick Internet search will show this up on forums all over the place. Many Ibanez/etc. instruments have 57-58mm fretboards at the 22/24 fret for a reason. Anything they can do, Warmoth can do better is how I look at it :)
You mention the nut width and profile being linked to create the over all feel. I would add to that fretboard radius... I like a boatneck with a 7.25" radius. But I tried one with a 10 to 16" radius and it was completely unmanageable for me. Edit: I always go 1 5/8" as well.
Good point - there's a synergy between the 3 - nut width, profile and fretboard radius. The number of possible combinations is huge. I can't say I have one particular preference but I'm starting to narrow it down.
In the UK we used to use imperial. Most people here understand both imperial and metric but officially everything is metric. The problem with imperial is that it's not decimal so much more difficult to calculate. It would be better if the US adopted this.
Aaron, I have an idea for you guys: If you guys offered a six inch profile sample piece for folks unsure of what profile we would favor, I'm sure they would be a great help to folks like myself who haven't a clue of which profile we'd favor. It could be made out of scrap or some cheap wood like pine or whatever. I would be happy to spend a few dollars on it plus shipping to avoid being unhappy with a neck I thought I would like but wasn't after I held it. Plus, it could generate a few extra dollars for the company to help on those slow days that all factories have from time to time. What's the likelihood of something like this?
Ehm, but the neck profile changes from nut to heel quite a bit. Plus the fretboard widens towards the heel which alters the perception of the neck in the hand. If the fretboard has a constant radius. If it's a compound one, things get even more complicated. Which 6-inch portion of the neck do you consider as the reference?
*Aaron* I'd love to know this as well! ^ please reply what you think the differences in *feel* are like between those two *on a standard thin* neck profile , small measurement difference but surely the hands feel the difference! . I'll wait to hear from you as well I need to know this difference. . Stay safe and healthy everyone cheers from Niagara falls Canada! 🤟🙏😊 - Adam
These videos are great for Warmoth’s marketing. Good to have you Aaron! You always explain the details and inspire confidence in the quality of your products. Please make sure Warmoth continues to focus on quality. Quality is everything when choosing a custom neck. Thanks! 🎉
So, is there like a formula to use to get closer to a size without spending a bunch of money on a neck and then finding out it's too small or too big? Like is there a cheap plank option where we could order a section of neck and just pay for that before ordering up a full roasted maple quarter sewn neck? I'm thinking a leftie Warmoth neck, SRV, 48mm, 1/4 sewn then roasted maple (or the other way around. Roasted before cutting? Not sure.). Compound 9.5" to 14" iirc. Superwide only comes in a Strat neck for the 48mm so I'll need to order the Tele body with a Strat pocket. The SRV thicker portion is on the bass side/thumb side...right? Makes sense to have it wider there. Thanks
In the early 90s I purchase a Warmoth Strat replacement neck and it measures .843 at the first fret in .925 at the 12th fret and is a medium C shape. Are you aware of a neck with these measurements that was offered back in the 90s and what it might have been referred to? I still have it to this day and love it along with the other necks that I've purchased from Warmoth. Many thanks!
It has become the „name for that“ only in the US though. I mean, we occasionally “call” it by that system as well but still, I‘m brain-fucked each time I have to compare nut widths because I have to first realize what those mathematical fractions even mean. I know 40mm is more than 39mm but 1.9/16???? Whattt??? …Over here in Europe most guitar players are not very good mathematicians. 😅
Imagine watching a video trying to find out which nut width is best for short fat fingers, but getting a history lesson and measuring system mini-rant instead.
I pretty much cite "42 mm" as "modern Fender nut width", and "25.5 inch" for typical Fender scale. It is interesting how we almost arbitrarily glom onto certain units as a "baseline". I have a science background and would prefer metric, and for some reason believe woodworkers prefer Imperial, but I wonder how a poll of machinists would skew. 🤔
I agree that scale lengths have always been imperial, but I have never ever seen nut widths in imperial until Warmoth, even on US sites. Its always been 42mm, 43mm and so on.
The nut widths start at 41 mm not 42 mm. The 1 5/8th (1.625") is 41 mm. Imperial is hard because most people in America start learning it using fractions instead of 3 place decimals. The easiest method to convert imperial to metric is to multiply by 25.4. For instance, after converting the fraction to 3 place decimals, 1 5/8ths is 1.625" Then multiply by 25.4. So, 1.625 x 25.4 = 41.275. Round the whole number to get approximately 41 mm. To convert metric to imperial, you divide by 25.4. For example, 43 mm divided by 25.4 is 1.693 rounded up to 3rd place decimal. We know this is 1 11/16ths because 1 11/16ths is 1.688" which is only .005" from 1.693. It's imperative to be able to convert the imperial fraction to 3 place decimal imperial measurement. Then, the imperial measurement can be converted to metric.
im overwhelmed! i have a 59 roundback Existing nut is 41 mm lenth. E to E, 35 mm. Width 3 mm. Height 5 mm at low E , 4 mm at high E. What is the recommendation for a Tusq xl? Id APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!!
Bicentennial WOW!! That brings back some memories ... our town made a dock at the local lake that was stars and stripes we would swim out and hang in the sun all day ... 1978 1979 Hotel California , Boston Dire Straits CARS and Ice cold Lowenbrau Beer ...life was good !
Why don['t you propose a 42 mm nut width, like MIM fenders and epiphone lespaul do ? It would be a lot more relevant than the 41 mm nut width you propose on your website.
I'm glad to see that im not the only one who care about nut width. 😜 Most of mine have an about 43mm nut when i'v tjecked them with a caliper... But my 2 fav guitars neck i'v got in my arsenal , my B.C. Rich Calibre series Warlock and my older Ibanez RGT42 , has 44mm (1-3/4") Floyd Rose nuts. I don't know why i love 44mm wide boards cuzz i have small and fat fingers... hehehe 🤣 Do you know why 44mm isent more used? Love the vids dude... Grap the pick of your choice (Jazz 3) and KOP 😄 From Denmark 🤘
Standard & metric & decimals, oh my! Glad I know them all(I messed with my one of my trainees by asking him to pass me the .750 wrench, busted myself), & now that I have google to convert them all. Shout out to the Freedom Train, I was a wee pup, but I remember it.
What amazes me is the difference between 41mm and 42mm is only 1mm…divided by 2 cuz its on each side of the neck is .5mm…BUT your hand can FEEL the difference…it’s quite incredible!!!!
Nut widths on the Warmoth site have been my biggest undoing,I ended up with an extra wide nut width as i didn't know what the Jimmie Carter metric was,now am stuck with an almost unplayable neck,I wish it was in millimetres ,damn
I like the 59 round back with 1 11/16 ,got one from you all in 2018 rosewood ,Im playing it rite now ,.Its on a tele players with humbuckers ,Thanks for great necks ,I do have a standard thin on a strat,And it really is close to my 97 AM standard strat, Both my warmouths are conversion necks,I used the strat conversion on a build ,It came out great .
As someone who owns a 43mm les paul and a 40.6mm tele, i love how easy the tele’s neck plays! I wish epiphone would cut the 43mm crap out and give us a 42mm lp!
Haha! That's funny. I think it's even more crazy with guitars that have tremolo/locked nuts. For one, there's a bunch of imitations. Different sizes from different brands use different hardware and neck profiles and then...It's hard to fit new necks into a body. I'm trying to Frankenstein 2 ESP-Ltds into one and it's a head scratcher. Both were designed in Metric System, but the Trem I bought is an Original Floyd Rose FRT-100 to replace a Floyd Rose Special and 1 neck nut is narrower than the other. Bizarre. Even the same brand on two V guitars from the same company don't have the same necks' widths.
I've worked as a machinist. This is an interesting subject. We had to convert a lot of stuff we did for the Japanese. I don't care personally, because measurement is measurement. I know that a millimeter is about .03937 if memory serves me. 😛
Play as many necks as you can before ordering, don't just order something you heard was good for tone/speed/comfort. Just because some guy on a forum likes it doesn't mean it's right for you.
I own a boat neck. I took a chance thinking of the soft vee profile of past Fender (didn't stay long). I took a strong liking to it. I'm not a lead player & I have big hands. I personally never noticed the nut difference, but that's me.
Aaron, I was blessed to get in the summer of '78 and '79.... from Wayne Charvel directly himself both times, tho the second to me was not quite the same, but what I asked in '78 from Wayne was, "the exact same neck as what Eddie had, he told me it was a "flat n wide" 1" n 3/4..but was all I remember other than I then hated 70's headstocks lol, so was a traditional Fender headstock. I built my Eddie ( black and white) in March 78, from the album cover photo only to go on. And I wish to get another neck tho like that with a CBS headstock...but not sure on radius? What was Wayne's ( Boogie Bodies) radius for those, he jus said Flat n Wide. I didn't do the brass nut on his, the neck prior tho i did, was traditional Strat width 1 5/8, but his jad a weird nut material like resin...any ideas, I go to your website a lot, and did get a modern 1 3/4 CBS for my Doug Aldrich a couple years ago
Speaking of waxing nostalgic, my dad encountered a Jazzmaster with a deep v neck profile decades ago. Yeah, I know, nobody likes the deep v and nobody ever uses them. That's the problem, though, as my dad has been on the lookout for a guitar like that ever since. So what to do? I'm looking to recreate the Jazzmaster he played so long ago. The vintage 7 1/4" nut, I believe, but with a deep v neck profile. Any ideas? Is this something Warmoth can do?
I'm planning ordering a symmetrical fat neck from a local luthier (I'm from Brazil), perhaps a soft-V one with around 1" in depth. I'm looking to practice thumb-over technique and get the feel of a vintage Fender guitar. My questions are: would it matter if truss rod is double or single action regarding vintage tone and feel? What about heel adjustment vs. headstock access to truss rod?Will I see a difference in the neck feel besides aesthetics? Thank you.
You always hear fun made of american imperial system, but only recently (after 30 years) I found out americans actually know metric to some point and use it almost daily. I absolutely approve 25.5" over 648 mm or whatever it is. It's just so much simpler number to remember and process and like you said it's been everywhere forever. For nuts and bridge widths I'm all confused because you don't deal with them too often and trying to find out which you have and what place in time it belongs to (fender history). Millimeters don't speak that much either in this because you don't know what the measure you need anyway. The floyd R2, R3 marking is actually great. Simple to understand and doesn't confuse you about the exact measurement, just the context.
I prefer a 24.75" regular scale length with a 1.75" nut width as I find the 1 5/8" nut width to narrow. 25.5" long scale length and 24" short scale length guitars are not as comfortable to play!
A bass player would be nice to describe neck profiles-compared to Fender, MM, etc. Ultimately, though, you have to play the neck first so unless you have money to blow...... But if Warmoth could make neck profile "dummies" to send out for customers to try that might help.
Would a srv be a good match for 1650? Is the difference between SRV and Wolfgang really noticeable. I mate of mine he's got a Wolfgang told me the SRV will be too fat and Chunky. I want an SRV but I'm not sure whether to go with the 1650 or the 1 5/8. I think my hands are probably slightly bigger than the average I think they're about 21 cm from my middle finger to the crease in my wrist.
wish you offered a 1 13/16 nut width; also that the 1 7/8 that I 'revert to', would be avail in tighter radii. Thanks, love your stuff, have had and do-have many pieces, best wishes.
I use metric mostly. I don't mind imperial... apart from American screw sizes! They drive me insane! Do I need a 4-40 for that? What size drill bit does that need? A M3 screw takes a 3mm bit. I have a boat neck on a strat, I bought it by accident but I'm used to it now. Good for chords
I've got really blobby fingertips, and now after really consistent, 4 hour + practice/writing sessions, the full tip of my finger is calloused. The effect of this is that when I properly fret strings in a chord, my finger tips blob out and touch both adjacent strings, the higher and the lower string. And I can't feel it, because my finger tips have callous helmets. I have been trying for years to play chords, and the best I can do is have open/muted strings around notes/frets that I do play, so like playing the third an octave above, rather than on the next higher string. Long setup for the question, would a wider neck solve my problem, or should I continue with the minimal progress that I've made over the last three years? Many years ago, in my youth, I wanted to play an instrument, tried guitar, but my finger tips were too blobby, so played bass, duh, obvious choice! But now before I pass, I have some things I want to do on guitar. My other option is just taping my finger tips every time I play guitar, so they can't blob out and touch adjacent strings, so I have a little pad on my finger tip like most people. Seems like a weak option to me.
i would be great if warmoth could make a loaner neck set with requested profiles for a small fee to cover shipping costs….otherwise its just a guessing game….for example if undecided between fatneck and boatneck or round 59 or srv….make 2 or 3 neck loaner neck sets?
Remember Fallstaff Bicentennial beer cans with the Liberty Bell? I bought your boat neck, really liked it. Theres enough material there to keep it real stable with heavy strings. Quick question, If I order a walnut body and oil finish it, is it worse for tone than a poly clear coat? I see other companies like Rick use oil finish, True oil or Linseed. Any opinions or advice?
I've mentioned this before to customer service that it would be great if Warmoth offerd a sample kit of the different profiles and possibly a few differnt widths to get a feel for them before you buy. Maybe just a 6" (152.4mm) length would be enough. I would be willing to pay shipping and some type of deposit for this before I spend money on a neck that, in the end, I just don't care for which in fact I have done. Have several of these kits depending on demand or you could be on some type of waiting list. Just a thougt.
Great video. I am going from playing a classical guitar for years, to a 40mm fake Fender Stratocaster scalloped neck and it is impossible to play chords for me... So looking into a specialist neck or different guitar.
I grew up with the metric system, but when it comes to guitar measurements I always defer to the imperial system. It would be confusing to use metric only.
As a Brit I grew up with imperial and metric measurements, but I'll still never understand using fractions of an inch to express the tiny dimensions of a guitar.
![Tee Grizzley - Blow for Blow (feat. J. Cole) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wNLN5xsx5dc/mqdefault.jpg)
Aaron is one of the main reasons I buy from Warmoth. Drops knowledge every single time. Give this man a raise! 😁
I have said the same thing, this guy is easily worth ten times what they are paying him, no matter how much that is. He is the very reason I come here.
I thought he was the owner 😱😱😱
I definitely think you would have to scour the earth for a more likable personality in a spokes person. Plus he's a guitar player. As Paul Gilbert once said, "if aliens ever tried to take over the planet, they'd come down and realize guitar players were all so awesome that they'd just leave us all alone".
Absolutely 💯 %. I was hooked years ago after I saw his mahogany, ash,alder comparison test 👍.
I had been thinking the same. He's definitely the face of Warmoth. @@LosRockson
We are lucky to have you on RUclips. Warmoth is lucky to have you in their company. We are glad you are here and doing this. These videos are one of the best things to come out of this quarantine situation.
I think different frets in different necks make a lot of difference too. My jackson dinky has medium jumbo frets and a very very thin neck, and the frets feel huge, and my kramer 84 has a pretty big neck with medium frets, and the frets feel so tiny that I'll have to replace them soon with 6100s.
This was a great video thank you for it. I bought a Wolfgang roasted maple neck a few months ago and bought it blind turns out I like it but it isn’t what I wanted. I like a regular neck but standard thin confused me to think it was shred thin. No please go back to work and finish my order of body and neck I’m waiting for
So this may be a question that no one can answer, but how does the SRV profile compare with PRS's Pattern Vintage? Some day I'm going to get a new neck for my Tele and I'm thinking SRV, roasted maple, stainless steel frets, and a GraphTech nut. I have a PRS 594 and I really like the neck on it.
I absolutely love these videos. They are comforting in times like these.
Rounded:
1 5/8" - 41mm
1.650" - 42mm
1 11/16" - 43mm
1 3/4" - 45mm (44.5mm)
1 7/8" - 48mm
I don't usually write comments but anyone who puts down Aaron is an idiot. This is one of the best done, most informative and detailed channels out there! As an essential employee I am ever grateful to come home each day to unwind to a relaxing, informative and sometimes hilarious Warmoth video! Please keep doing what you do man, you're an inspiration to us in these times and your videos ARE ALWAYS top notch! 👌 plus you are the most chill, coolest dude ever!
The comparison videos you do are THE gold standard and even my gf watches your videos and has subscribed to your channel! Now THAT'S impressive!
You should also keep a record of the comments that inspire you and spur you on to keep doing what you do and keep making amazing content and music🎶!
Cheers from halfway around the world (Caribbean) to an incredible human being, not to mention amazing guitar player! ❤
Wow...thanks Jonathan! Can I use you as a reference at my next job interview? :)
Aaron you're not allowed to leave Warmoth.
❤️
@@Riverdeepnwide agreed! No leaving of warmoth is allowed! How else will we get our dose of Aaron doing cool things with awesome guitar parts?
When this thing is all over, I will definitely miss having an Aaron video to look forward to everyday 😕
You are the super fan boy or girl.
Hes such a likable guy
How refreshing to hear an American admit the benefits of the Metric system. The rest of the world already worked it out 😂
Yeah... even the Brits... :-O
Literally all Americans I know want the metric system and agree that it's better, all my teachers growing up would shit on the imperial system, we just use it anyways lol
Great video, as always. Btw, the metric nut width measurements (in order of smallest to largest) are as follows:
41.275 mm (1 5/8") (I think of this as "41")
41.91 mm (1.650") (I think of this as "42")
42.8625 mm (1 11/16") (I think of this as "43")
44.45 mm (1 3/4") (I think of this as "45")
47.625 mm (1 7/8") (I think of this as "47" even though it is more accurately “48”.)
I'm not surprised you couldn't remember: they don't translate very well in either direction.
Keep up the good work!
Well done Dan thank you 👍🏻
I go:
41mm (my fave)
42mm
43mm
44mm
48mm (7-string).
Hi! Well done! Just to say you don't need that kind of precision on millimeters so:
41.275 = 41
41.91 = 42
42.8625 = 43
44.45 = 45
47.625 = 48
Very easy to remember this way.
How can anybody send you mean tweets? You're such a likable guy
Maybe you know......I can’t get a straight answer from anyone....Will a Fender Strat Neck fit a Squire Affinity Strat body?
@Short For A Stormtrooper Big For Your Mom than you for your experience.
There jealous!
Was happy to see you guys did the shootout of 25.5" vs 24.75" scale. When this covid stuff blows over, I'd love to see you guys do a shootout between standard placement for a neck pickup and 24-fret reposition.
I believe that the metric system is the more precise of the 2. I wish we went with that one too
You're right and that was the reasoning for wanting the U.S. to convert to the metric system, but like he said, the cost of retooling all of our manufacturing plants was prohibitive for the change. I feel for auto mechanics as they will run in to both on cars these days.
It depends. It's a decimal system....not so good for divisions of 3 for example.
Any system of measurement is only as precise as the person using it. The imperial system is "more precise" in my mind, because it's what I've used all my life and I understand it perfectly. I know exactly what 1.6875 is without even thinking about it. I still sometimes have to go to Google to remind myself what 43mm is in inches.
If the rest of the world used imperial and the US used metric, the arguments would almost invariably be flipped.
I’m Canadian. In my job I have to know both. Always converting. No big deal. Both systems of measurement are sexy in their own way. Weird I know. 4 thou of an inch = 0.1 mm....I can go on. For neck relief my good set of Hosco gauges are metric. Humans, including the Americans learn what they need to get what they want. When you want your guitar to be “just right” you become pragmatic.
Kinda.. every metric bolt is made wrong, you can get a 10mm bolt and another 10mm bolt from another company and they are both a slight bit different size.
You're the Bob Ross of guitars, so wholesome and relaxing to listen to. Thank you for the amazing content.
I have purchased 5 Warmoth necks in the past 20 years, and you you guys have made it very difficult for me to buy a guitar. Most guitars feel poor by comparison. Recently, I tried a custom guitar made by a nationally recognized luthier with a price tag of $2700, and was pleased to discover that my partscasters equaled or exceeded it for playability. My favorite profiles are the standard thin and SRV, and thank you for introducing me to canary wood it has a wonderful feel unfinished.
As a drafter and machinist, I also wish we were on metric. And I absolutely loathe decimal inches, you can't measure them with the average ruler/tape measure.
amen
As a drafter and machinist, I expect you would have a pair of calipers beside you 24/7.
@@briandavis812 But metric doesn't use fractions.
darkiee69 - I think that was the joke, taking the piss out of imperial fractions based on 16ths and 64ths, etc.
At least measuring in conventional Metric fractions doesn't end up sounding like we're talking about musical notation.
The US never converted to the metric system, because they couldn’t find an equivalent for the shit load!
My dilemma is that I don't want to commit to a replacement neck for my Strat without knowing if I'm going to like the neck profile. This might sound like a crazy solution, but if you were able to offer for a reasonable price a "pick and choose three pack" of plastic neck molds, I would totally purchase that to see which one I like best. I might choose the Standard thin, Clapton and SRV necks for example. Once I can put my hand on it, even a cheap plastic mold and no strings, I think I would know enough to remove the doubt and make a decision. Just a thought.
I used to work in biotech, and toxicology, and everything is metric in science, so learning it is a requirement.
I worked my way up from running CNC machines to running the entire CNC machine shop, so decimal inch is second nature, and fractions are just automatically converted to decimal inch. It's easy once you're used to it.
Excellent. Long live this ninja turtle! Metric system plus guitars = MM mastery like noah's ark and the ark of the covenant, amongst other things built in the ratios that please, i am is well pleased with this. My neck preference is the widest nut @ 48MM for a 6 string, and the fat back like a thick flat shape that looks like a solid rectangle. Also i prefer anything but maple. Such as Bubinga, Ovangkol, mahogany ebony or rosewood as a neck wood with a bright fretboard. However i love high grade bird's eye maple as a fretboard. And maple as a back or top are great as well. Although i would prefer a richer tonewood like myrtle, douglas fir or burled anything even poplar or other as a top and keep a maple back on it. copper brass alloy sheet adds tone to a top or at least an interesting sound in the highs. oh well thats all. Body cores that sound great are Poplar, Redwood, Cedar, Red spruce, Swamp Ash, Mahogany, Alder, there are many more like douglas fir etc. Lacewood is interesting as a body and def leopard guitarist loves it. bye can't wait to build my next Warmoth.
I have the worst problem in the world - small hands with sausage fingers! 1-11/16ths is the smallest I like for comfort/fretting, but that's where I start to lose the ability to use my thumb on the low E. Yes, I know, first world problems. Maybe I should switch to 5-string banjo.
They've been trying to turn the United States into Europe with the metric system as long as I can remember... I prefer SAE (Standard Automotive Engineers) or Standard.
Good video again! I am from europe and we only use metrics, but if you tell me that fingerboard radius is 30.48cm, I have no idea how it feels. But I get it right away, if you tell me its 12". Thats just the name fot it and no neee to chanche that.
What retooling would have to be done now? There isn't very much manufacturing going on in the US anymore, unfortunately.
Are you familiar with Art & Luthier? The neck on my Legacy model is the best profile I've ever felt...it's life changing! It also features a 1.72" Nut Width. If you are familiar with this, what Warmoth profile is closest?
Thank you Sir ! is there a reason why the vintage in stock necks are always Standard Thin and not more like fatter 50-60's originals ?
I have big hands and fat fingers - my preferred neck width is 45-46mm. Unfortunately, Warmoth don't do anything in this size range - 1 3/4" is 44.5mm and the Superwide 1 7/8" neck is 47.8mm.
So how about a 1 13/16th" = 46mm neck?
BTW, from the configurator, it also looks like it's not possible to have the Superwide neck fully scalloped.
PS. Keep up the great work, Aaron - your intelligent, informed, detailed and objective vids are among the best out there.
I really like "D" neck shapes. Does Warmoth not make a "D" neck profile?
1 5/8 is the answer to life, the universe, and everything
A couple of questions: what about a Floyd rose with the compound radius, shouldn’t the radius of the saddles match?
Any chance of a soft V to C neck profile like the EJ strat?
I also noticed fender offers a C-D profile.
gingataff love me a 41.3mm nut. I don’t mind metric or imperial as long as it is not wider
Sorry, but the answer is 42.
That is the down side to floyd s theyshould have adjustable saddles👍
@@jhanc8365
The anwser is a 47 mill nut. Like on the great Brian May red special. Fretting chords at the neck is a dream. Especially if you have thick fingers. I tried playing a tele recently. And I couldnt hold down a B7 chord without fouling the strings even a C chord was a problem. On the May Red Special. Never had this problem. I need at LEAST a 43 mill nut or its unplayable for chord work for me.
Spot on, the imperial system is primitive and moronic!!!
Thanks for that Aaron! I am also a child of the 70s and I did relate to your comments about the time.
Once I discovered Warmoth, there was no turning back. All of my F style guitars are Warmoth. I had actual Fenders but they were all paling in comparison with my Warmoth guitars and were moved on. By now I have seven Warmoth guitars (and a few necks) and these are the guitars that I play and gig all of the time because they feel right and they sound right (despite quite a few others in the stable).
My favourite neck profile is actually fatback. It sits so good in my hands (and I don't have huge hands) that makes most other guitars feel a bit meh. I am also madly in love with roasted maple necks - so good! I don't want to have laqucer ever again on a neck.
I recall one particular time that, I think, is very characteristic of the company that Warmoth is - I am based in Germany and getting exotic woods shipped is a bit of a production. So, I had ordered a neck with a Rosewood fingerboard and had to do all the CITES paperwork. A person from Warmoth got in touch with me to help - she was super helpful and very patient, despite all of my ignorance - that was Sandy Hosfelt. We had a nice E-Mail exchange and it all turned out to be good. But it was only years later that it occurred to me that she is the actual CEO of Warmoth - How cool is that! It definitely made me appreciate he company even more.
If I hadn't run out of space at home, I'd have another dozen Warmoth guitars ... but for now, I'll rock my Warmoth guitars during lock down! Thanks for everything - you guys are doing great work and what you put out is second to none!
Thanks so much Frank! Yep, Sandy is the best. :)
Another great video man!
I got two necks of 1 11/16” nut width with 59 and standard thin respectively, love them both. Thanks for bringing up the relationship of nut width and neck shape, really helps a lot on my next build!
Thank you for these videos, I love them! If is not too much to ask, is it possible for you to make a video on how exactly one affects the other (nut width & neck profile)? For instance: “if you use the widest nut with a modern C, this and this will happen” or “if you use a fat neck with the narrowest nut, your fingers will struggle to reach the 6th string”... something like that, I don’t know hehe
Greetings from Costa Rica, and thanks again!
A lot of useless babbling going on here
Thank you for this video very helpful. I ordered 2 necks (standard thin, 25-1/2", 1-11/16" nut) with same fret size one for strat and one for tele. The strat neck is perfect. The tele neck is noticeably fatter than the strat neck. Is this due variance in production or are there inherent differences between strat and tele necks?
omg, did you just say "pop" in referring to tasty carbonated beverages? i think my ears are bleeding a little...
"Hey Laser Lips, your mama was a
Snow Blower❕"
- Johnny 5 🤖
I called Warmoth today to ask a Nut Width question and you guys are obviously closed. This is pleasantly ironic. Hoping my question is answered here.
So my question is how does the spacing of the strings change based on the nut width? Does it change the thickness of the neck as well or just the but itself?
I have the exact same question ^ *Aaron please help when you see this* ! Stay safe and healthy at this time cheers from Niagara falls canada 🤟🙏😊
Is 42mm the end result on a 1.65” nut, or is it just shy of that like the 1.650” suggests? Asking because Ibanez uses 42-43mm nuts, which are different than Fender nut widths.
Look forward to these vids every day... I landed a warmoth wizard profile neck with 6100 frets and a 1 11/16" (aka 43mm) nut width, and fell in love with it. It reminds me alot of an old roadstar II neck I had years ago , with the added benefits of higher frets and better string spacing at the nut.
BTW I was 5 yrs old during the bicentennial, and remember how great that time was .
Excellent to read this because that's exactly what I'm ordering lol
Turns out I don’t need more guitars, I need more Warmoth on youtube. Unless trans wine red becomes an option then both
Chin up. Want to talk about nuts?
How about nut options themselves? Corian vs. Tusq material,
LSR, Earvana, Floyd Rose options, and Nutless.
I would also love an episode on the nuts themselves!
I retrofitted an Earvana on a Strat years ago and I absolutely fell in love with REALLY being in tune so much that my dream guitar would've included a Floyd, but now I'm looking at locking tuners and an original tuner-less Floyd JUST because I love the Earvana so much!
Guitar necks are the most difficult to personalize. There are so many options to think about and all influence the feel of the neck and how it will play. Here’s a list I came up with in my latest guitar journey quest:
1. Scale length. Super important!
2. Neck width
3. Neck thickness
4. Neck shape profile
5. Fret sizes
6. Fret material
7. Fretboard radius
8. Finish and wood choice
All these factors have an impact! 15 years ago I had no idea why one guitar played better than the other. Now with Google and RUclips I learned so many things! I bought guitars and sold them and then tried out other guitars. Every guitar I write down all the measurements. By doing so I learn which options suits me best. This is what I discovered thus far:
1. Shorter scale length works best for me. 25.5 and up is too long for me. It is causing me wrist pain
2. That being said shorter scale means also less fret space. That I have to compromise with smaller frets. So I prefer smaller fret size, medium-jumbo
3. Evo gold frets work best for me soundwise and feelwise and also very durable.
4. I prefer satin neck finish because it is smooth to play
5. Walnut neck and maple fretboard
6. Neck not too thick and not too thin. How thick exactly I’m not sure yet because nut width and neck profile also plays a big part!
7. Because I play 7-string the nut width has to be not longer than 1.889/48mm. The Kiesel DC700 I have right now is wider with 48,5 mm/1.91 inch and it makes the neck for me more difficult to play
8. Fretboard radius between 14-20. Still not sure which one exactly becaise other factors play a part too!
The only thing left for me is neck profile. I tried several but still not sure which I like the most.
3 barleycorns to an inch. What's not to love?
When you remember the 1-5/8 is 1.625 it makes the 1.650 easier to grasp. I love the 1-3/4 or 1.750 nut width myself, I play a little fingerstyle and occasionally jazz and it’s just easier to navigate through chords. I’ve been wanting to build a mahogany HH Tele for a while and when I actually get ahead money wise I’m going to get the neck and body from Warmoth. It’s great that you can get exactly what you want from them and build up a guitar that is exactly what you want.
Smacks of POLITICS!!!
I love Warmoth. I don’t understand why more electric guitars don’t use a 1 3/4 nut. I have large hands and I have a bit of arthritis at this point in my life. The 1 3/4 nut feels so much more comfortable to play.
That 1 3/4 neck will be weird in my small cold dead hand.
@@patrolduty8715 Many Martin, Taylor and Takamine, etc. acoustic guitars are 1 3/4.
@@thebigleone1066 Yeah. I started with classical guitar training so I get used to wide nut width when I play with nylon string by finger. But in electric guitar with pick, it is a lot different. I have to sold my Parker Nitefly because the Nut width is much wider than my old Charvel, Ibanez which I feel really comfortable. My hand is small Asian guy's hand (164 cm height only). So that may be the main reason. Totally personal thing, I believe
A suggestion comment for what it's worth, since niche/custom is where Warmoth surely dominates. I love Warmoth's short scale guitars and I also love a Floyd Rose. There's a problem; Floyd string spacing puts the E strings too close to fretboard edges on shorter scale instruments no matter what nut width. How do some other manufacturers seem to get over this? They make the fretboard a bit wider at the 22/24 fret by like 1mm or so, often because they are not bound to a standard Fender pocket fit they have some latitude there. Maybe keeping the pocket dimensions same ol' Fender size but offering a slightly wider fretboard (necessarily overhanging at the sides by the smallest amount) would allow short scale players to have their Floyd string spacing too. The difference in neck width along 90% of the neck would be imperceptibly different. Nearer the bridge though, that extra dimension would be a real advantage. What do you think?
Short scale guitars? You mean the 7/8s?
@@schmoemi3386 right the 7/8th or anything else 24.75" scale with a 56mm-fretboard-at-the-pocket in my opinion can't avoid this issue to an extent that bothers me, and the Mustang/Jazzstang at 24" scale I guess would have similar issues for similar reasons. You could say the cause is that Floyd trems don't have adjustable string spacing (they don't) or that some players don't notice a problem (if you don't play much at the high end of the neck). Some people have this problem on even full scale 25.5" Fender size neck and go for 'narrow spacing' bridges to avoid strings being too close to the fretboard edges. A quick Internet search will show this up on forums all over the place. Many Ibanez/etc. instruments have 57-58mm fretboards at the 22/24 fret for a reason. Anything they can do, Warmoth can do better is how I look at it :)
@@kesamek8537 They do wider than the neck heel fretboards on their baritone necks, I think that may've be adaptable to that FR problem...
@@schmoemi3386 that would be a great solution, hopefully something they could offer
You mention the nut width and profile being linked to create the over all feel. I would add to that fretboard radius... I like a boatneck with a 7.25" radius. But I tried one with a 10 to 16" radius and it was completely unmanageable for me.
Edit: I always go 1 5/8" as well.
Good point - there's a synergy between the 3 - nut width, profile and fretboard radius. The number of possible combinations is huge. I can't say I have one particular preference but I'm starting to narrow it down.
In the UK we used to use imperial. Most people here understand both imperial and metric but officially everything is metric. The problem with imperial is that it's not decimal so much more difficult to calculate. It would be better if the US adopted this.
Aaron, I have an idea for you guys: If you guys offered a six inch profile sample piece for folks unsure of what profile we would favor, I'm sure they would be a great help to folks like myself who haven't a clue of which profile we'd favor. It could be made out of scrap or some cheap wood like pine or whatever. I would be happy to spend a few dollars on it plus shipping to avoid being unhappy with a neck I thought I would like but wasn't after I held it.
Plus, it could generate a few extra dollars for the company to help on those slow days that all factories have from time to time.
What's the likelihood of something like this?
Ehm, but the neck profile changes from nut to heel quite a bit.
Plus the fretboard widens towards the heel which alters the perception of the neck in the hand. If the fretboard has a constant radius. If it's a compound one, things get even more complicated.
Which 6-inch portion of the neck do you consider as the reference?
What contrasts are found with a 1-11/16 and a 1-3/4 nut width?
*Aaron* I'd love to know this as well! ^ please reply what you think the differences in *feel* are like between those two *on a standard thin* neck profile , small measurement difference but surely the hands feel the difference!
.
I'll wait to hear from you as well I need to know this difference.
. Stay safe and healthy everyone cheers from Niagara falls Canada!
🤟🙏😊 - Adam
These videos are great for Warmoth’s marketing. Good to have you Aaron! You always explain the details and inspire confidence in the quality of your products. Please make sure Warmoth continues to focus on quality. Quality is everything when choosing a custom neck. Thanks! 🎉
So, is there like a formula to use to get closer to a size without spending a bunch of money on a neck and then finding out it's too small or too big? Like is there a cheap plank option where we could order a section of neck and just pay for that before ordering up a full roasted maple quarter sewn neck? I'm thinking a leftie Warmoth neck, SRV, 48mm, 1/4 sewn then roasted maple (or the other way around. Roasted before cutting? Not sure.). Compound 9.5" to 14" iirc. Superwide only comes in a Strat neck for the 48mm so I'll need to order the Tele body with a Strat pocket.
The SRV thicker portion is on the bass side/thumb side...right? Makes sense to have it wider there. Thanks
Calling soda “pop”.
I’ll never buy Warmoth now.
LOL!
I thought "pop" was mainly a Minnesota thing.
It's a UK thing too!
In the early 90s I purchase a Warmoth Strat replacement neck and it measures .843 at the first fret in .925 at the 12th fret and is a medium C shape. Are you aware of a neck with these measurements that was offered back in the 90s and what it might have been referred to? I still have it to this day and love it along with the other necks that I've purchased from Warmoth. Many thanks!
Keen to try a 1 7/8" Nut Width. Does anyone have any feedback/used one of these necks and what profile? Cheers.
It has become the „name for that“ only in the US though. I mean, we occasionally “call” it by that system as well but still, I‘m brain-fucked each time I have to compare nut widths because I have to first realize what those mathematical fractions even mean. I know 40mm is more than 39mm but 1.9/16???? Whattt???
…Over here in Europe most guitar players are not very good mathematicians. 😅
Imagine watching a video trying to find out which nut width is best for short fat fingers, but getting a history lesson and measuring system mini-rant instead.
I like the combination of both. I do the scale lenght in imperial, but my nut is 43mm and my bridge is 54mm. Keep the videos coming.
I pretty much cite "42 mm" as "modern Fender nut width", and "25.5 inch" for typical Fender scale. It is interesting how we almost arbitrarily glom onto certain units as a "baseline".
I have a science background and would prefer metric, and for some reason believe woodworkers prefer Imperial, but I wonder how a poll of machinists would skew. 🤔
3:22 - 3:35 - Aaron, The defense industry BUILDS SPACE CAPSULES AND FIGHTER JETS to Decimal Inches. Still does!
I agree that scale lengths have always been imperial, but I have never ever seen nut widths in imperial until Warmoth, even on US sites. Its always been 42mm, 43mm and so on.
The nut widths start at 41 mm not 42 mm. The 1 5/8th (1.625") is 41 mm. Imperial is hard because most people in America start learning it using fractions instead of 3 place decimals. The easiest method to convert imperial to metric is to multiply by 25.4. For instance, after converting the fraction to 3 place decimals, 1 5/8ths is 1.625" Then multiply by 25.4. So, 1.625 x 25.4 = 41.275. Round the whole number to get approximately 41 mm. To convert metric to imperial, you divide by 25.4. For example, 43 mm divided by 25.4 is 1.693 rounded up to 3rd place decimal. We know this is 1 11/16ths because 1 11/16ths is 1.688" which is only .005" from 1.693. It's imperative to be able to convert the imperial fraction to 3 place decimal imperial measurement. Then, the imperial measurement can be converted to metric.
im overwhelmed! i have a 59 roundback Existing nut is 41 mm lenth. E to E, 35 mm. Width 3 mm. Height 5 mm at low E , 4 mm at high E. What is the recommendation for a Tusq xl? Id APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!!
My favorite nut width for acoustic guitars was the only one not mentioned... I guess 1-13/16" will have to wait for recognition from the Warmoth gods.
Bicentennial WOW!! That brings back some memories ... our town made a dock at the local lake that was stars and stripes we would swim out and hang in the sun all day ... 1978 1979 Hotel California , Boston Dire Straits CARS and Ice cold Lowenbrau Beer ...life was good !
Why don['t you propose a 42 mm nut width, like MIM fenders and epiphone lespaul do ? It would be a lot more relevant than the 41 mm nut width you propose on your website.
I'm glad to see that im not the only one who care about nut width. 😜
Most of mine have an about 43mm nut when i'v tjecked them with a caliper...
But my 2 fav guitars neck i'v got in my arsenal , my B.C. Rich Calibre series Warlock and my older Ibanez RGT42 , has 44mm (1-3/4") Floyd Rose nuts.
I don't know why i love 44mm wide boards cuzz i have small and fat fingers... hehehe 🤣
Do you know why 44mm isent more used?
Love the vids dude...
Grap the pick of your choice (Jazz 3) and KOP 😄
From Denmark 🤘
Standard & metric & decimals, oh my! Glad I know them all(I messed with my one of my trainees by asking him to pass me the .750 wrench, busted myself), & now that I have google to convert them all. Shout out to the Freedom Train, I was a wee pup, but I remember it.
What amazes me is the difference between 41mm and 42mm is only 1mm…divided by 2 cuz its on each side of the neck is .5mm…BUT your hand can FEEL the difference…it’s quite incredible!!!!
Nut widths on the Warmoth site have been my biggest undoing,I ended up with an extra wide nut width as i didn't know what the Jimmie Carter metric was,now am stuck with an almost unplayable neck,I wish it was in millimetres ,damn
I like the 59 round back with 1 11/16 ,got one from you all in 2018 rosewood ,Im playing it rite now ,.Its on a tele players with humbuckers ,Thanks for great necks ,I do have a standard thin on a strat,And it really is close to my 97 AM standard strat, Both my warmouths are conversion necks,I used the strat conversion on a build ,It came out great .
As someone who owns a 43mm les paul and a 40.6mm tele, i love how easy the tele’s neck plays! I wish epiphone would cut the 43mm crap out and give us a 42mm lp!
Haha! That's funny. I think it's even more crazy with guitars that have tremolo/locked nuts. For one, there's a bunch of imitations. Different sizes from different brands use different hardware and neck profiles and then...It's hard to fit new necks into a body. I'm trying to Frankenstein 2 ESP-Ltds into one and it's a head scratcher. Both were designed in Metric System, but the Trem I bought is an Original Floyd Rose FRT-100 to replace a Floyd Rose Special and 1 neck nut is narrower than the other. Bizarre. Even the same brand on two V guitars from the same company don't have the same necks' widths.
I've worked as a machinist. This is an interesting subject. We had to convert a lot of stuff we did for the Japanese. I don't care personally, because measurement is measurement. I know that a millimeter is about .03937 if memory serves me. 😛
Play as many necks as you can before ordering, don't just order something you heard was good for tone/speed/comfort. Just because some guy on a forum likes it doesn't mean it's right for you.
I wish Warmoth and other neck and body builders would offer 25" necks for Fenders for players used to PRS guitars.
Think metric!!! Hahaaaa, I was 18 in 1980 so I remember all of that. Played soccer too, was still mostly unknown then.
I own a boat neck. I took a chance thinking of the soft vee profile of past Fender (didn't stay long). I took a strong liking to it. I'm not a lead player & I have big hands. I personally never noticed the nut difference, but that's me.
How to clean and polish roasted would be great. Love the videos. You’re about my age so fun to remember way back.
Aaron, I was blessed to get in the summer of '78 and '79.... from Wayne Charvel directly himself both times, tho the second to me was not quite the same, but what I asked in '78 from Wayne was, "the exact same neck as what Eddie had, he told me it was a "flat n wide" 1" n 3/4..but was all I remember other than I then hated 70's headstocks lol, so was a traditional Fender headstock. I built my Eddie ( black and white) in March 78, from the album cover photo only to go on. And I wish to get another neck tho like that with a CBS headstock...but not sure on radius? What was Wayne's ( Boogie Bodies) radius for those, he jus said Flat n Wide. I didn't do the brass nut on his, the neck prior tho i did, was traditional Strat width 1 5/8, but his jad a weird nut material like resin...any ideas, I go to your website a lot, and did get a modern 1 3/4 CBS for my Doug Aldrich a couple years ago
Speaking of waxing nostalgic, my dad encountered a Jazzmaster with a deep v neck profile decades ago. Yeah, I know, nobody likes the deep v and nobody ever uses them. That's the problem, though, as my dad has been on the lookout for a guitar like that ever since.
So what to do? I'm looking to recreate the Jazzmaster he played so long ago. The vintage 7 1/4" nut, I believe, but with a deep v neck profile. Any ideas? Is this something Warmoth can do?
I'm planning ordering a symmetrical fat neck from a local luthier (I'm from Brazil), perhaps a soft-V one with around 1" in depth. I'm looking to practice thumb-over technique and get the feel of a vintage Fender guitar. My questions are: would it matter if truss rod is double or single action regarding vintage tone and feel? What about heel adjustment vs. headstock access to truss rod?Will I see a difference in the neck feel besides aesthetics? Thank you.
I have 4 fatback necks and I love them. Best neck ever. I put them on my 63 jag 64 jag 65 mustang and my 12 string Tele warmoth build.
Just got a Warmoth neck with the ‘59 Roundback carve. Freaking amazing neck!
You always hear fun made of american imperial system, but only recently (after 30 years) I found out americans actually know metric to some point and use it almost daily.
I absolutely approve 25.5" over 648 mm or whatever it is. It's just so much simpler number to remember and process and like you said it's been everywhere forever. For nuts and bridge widths I'm all confused because you don't deal with them too often and trying to find out which you have and what place in time it belongs to (fender history). Millimeters don't speak that much either in this because you don't know what the measure you need anyway. The floyd R2, R3 marking is actually great. Simple to understand and doesn't confuse you about the exact measurement, just the context.
I prefer a 24.75" regular scale length with a 1.75" nut width as I find the 1 5/8" nut width to narrow. 25.5" long scale length and 24" short scale length guitars are not as comfortable to play!
A bass player would be nice to describe neck profiles-compared to Fender, MM, etc. Ultimately, though, you have to play the neck first so unless you have money to blow...... But if Warmoth could make neck profile "dummies" to send out for customers to try that might help.
Would a srv be a good match for 1650? Is the difference between SRV and Wolfgang really noticeable. I mate of mine he's got a Wolfgang told me the SRV will be too fat and Chunky. I want an SRV but I'm not sure whether to go with the 1650 or the 1 5/8. I think my hands are probably slightly bigger than the average I think they're about 21 cm from my middle finger to the crease in my wrist.
wish you offered a 1 13/16 nut width; also that the 1 7/8 that I 'revert to', would be avail in tighter radii. Thanks, love your stuff, have had and do-have many pieces, best wishes.
Who would want to troll such a nice guy ? Keep'em coming Aaron ! And just throw away those negative feedbacks \m/
I use metric mostly. I don't mind imperial... apart from American screw sizes! They drive me insane! Do I need a 4-40 for that? What size drill bit does that need? A M3 screw takes a 3mm bit.
I have a boat neck on a strat, I bought it by accident but I'm used to it now. Good for chords
I've got really blobby fingertips, and now after really consistent, 4 hour + practice/writing sessions, the full tip of my finger is calloused. The effect of this is that when I properly fret strings in a chord, my finger tips blob out and touch both adjacent strings, the higher and the lower string. And I can't feel it, because my finger tips have callous helmets. I have been trying for years to play chords, and the best I can do is have open/muted strings around notes/frets that I do play, so like playing the third an octave above, rather than on the next higher string.
Long setup for the question, would a wider neck solve my problem, or should I continue with the minimal progress that I've made over the last three years? Many years ago, in my youth, I wanted to play an instrument, tried guitar, but my finger tips were too blobby, so played bass, duh, obvious choice! But now before I pass, I have some things I want to do on guitar. My other option is just taping my finger tips every time I play guitar, so they can't blob out and touch adjacent strings, so I have a little pad on my finger tip like most people. Seems like a weak option to me.
i would be great if warmoth could make a loaner neck set with requested profiles for a small fee to cover shipping costs….otherwise its just a guessing game….for example if undecided between fatneck and boatneck or round 59 or srv….make 2 or 3 neck loaner neck sets?
Remember Fallstaff Bicentennial beer cans with the Liberty Bell?
I bought your boat neck, really liked it. Theres enough material there to keep it real stable with heavy strings.
Quick question,
If I order a walnut body and oil finish it, is it worse for tone than a poly clear coat? I see other companies like Rick use oil finish, True oil or Linseed. Any opinions or advice?
I've mentioned this before to customer service that it would be great if Warmoth offerd a sample kit of the different profiles and possibly a few differnt widths to get a feel for them before you buy. Maybe just a 6" (152.4mm) length would be enough. I would be willing to pay shipping and some type of deposit for this before I spend money on a neck that, in the end, I just don't care for which in fact I have done. Have several of these kits depending on demand or you could be on some type of waiting list.
Just a thougt.
Great video. I am going from playing a classical guitar for years, to a 40mm fake Fender Stratocaster scalloped neck and it is impossible to play chords for me... So looking into a specialist neck or different guitar.
I grew up with the metric system, but when it comes to guitar measurements I always defer to the imperial system.
It would be confusing to use metric only.
As a Brit I grew up with imperial and metric measurements, but I'll still never understand using fractions of an inch to express the tiny dimensions of a guitar.
I'm really missing the 1-13/16 inch or 46mm neck width among the warmoth choises. Everything else is covered...