Champion thanks . The bike shop sales reps didn’t really emphasise how long to warm it up for . There should be warning stickers on them new explaining all this . Thank Christ for RUclips and blokes like you
Have over 600hrs between a 2019 300tpi and a 2020 300tpi. Never have I fouled a plug and I live in a colder climate. Start it up with the cold start out leaving it idle for around 30 secs. Put the cold start back to normal and jump on and ride it it with around 1/4 throttle until it's warm. Good to go. Maybe thats what Kyle mentioned in his vid. No reason to over complicate. Maybe the 250s are a bit more touchy with fouling plugs.
Glad to hear you haven't had any issues! I believe by giving it any throttle while the engine is still cold, you're introducing MORE oil and fuel, which might increase your chances of fouling. Not every bike will have an issue though, so keep doing what works for you. There's definitely some variability with these TPIs - they all behave slightly differently.
Same procedure what local dealer mechanic told me... Id u re on track u can warm up 30-60s then shut down (keep dressing) and let spread heat across bike parts, then warm up again little bit and go slowly..
Kyle Brotherson is a RUclipsr I have grown to respect and trust. That being said, I hope he does a followup video either apologizing for misinformation and issuing a correction or his reasoning for going opposite to what the user manual says. I don't own a tpi bike so this doesn't affect me but I would like to see the record set straight over on DirtBikeChannel.
@@SmokeyRooster64 If you follow Kyle for anything but the most basic beginner information you will be in deep doodoo. Especially suspension set up. It's hard to believe he's been riding as long as he has and knows so little himself.
@@ddel5240 crazy. I'll make sure to research stuff more, thanks for the heads up. I haven't seen a suspension set up video from him yet but I just follow the user manual for now anyways.
This is what I do for almost every bike with the exception of older 2 stroke carbureted bikes. Tolerances are changing while bringing up to temp and when you wrap on the throttle it can cause piston slap,etc. I always recommend the factory owners manual or service manual over someone online. The manufacturer knows their product best. No engine was design to work in open loop efficiently, closed loop is what makes an engine operate where it should be. Adjustable fan settings can also cause issues with never reaching closed loop on occasion.
After fouling 6 plugs in 40 hours, I found this video. So far, your advise seems working. All you said in the video does make sense. Verdict is still out there, but if this really solves my issue, I can't appreciate you enough! I know there are many out there suffering from the same issue. Hope they will find this video soon.
one of the first thing i was told at a local mx shop when i started riding was always warm the bike up properly. you can actually cause a bike to seize starting it and riding immediately as the piston and cylinder will heat and expand at different rates. i've had this argument recently with some clubs and surprisingly a lot of riders who claim to have ridden for decades. i started racing timecard enduros and they don't let you start or warm your bike before you set off. you have to wait for your start minute then start and head straight out on your sighting lap. I was amazed how many riders from the club gave me abuse on the facebook page when i asked why we have to cold start. they said things like timecards are traditionally about testing a bikes reliability 😵💫 so in other words they believe the race is about intentionally doing something that could destroy your engine
Agreed on the cold-starts in enduros. I think it’s absolutely stupid. 99% of the riders are weekend warriors out there - why force them to put undue stress on their machines?
@WA semi-hard enduro. This was my argument, so these races are run by SEEC (south eastern enduro combined) which is a group of clubs in the south east of England that come together to run a timecard series and a hare n hounds series. Its only the timecard enduro’s you have to do a cold engine start. They allow you a longer time to complete that first lap saying it gives you time to warm your bike up. But warming up should not be done as you ride. They’ve had to cancel a few events this year due to low entries and that is most likely due to the fact that fuel here is around £1.75-1.90 per litre and things like tyres and oils have gone up around 30% in price. People can’t afford to race as often as events are on. It costs me around £260 to attend the race, so thats fuel in the van, fuel for the bike and my race entry fee. Thats not including any food or drinks on the day, or any breakages or parts i have to replace on the bike, nor general maintenance. They’re wondering why theres low entries when people are forced to do a cold start that could seize a bike and cost the rider £400-700 to fix ON TOP of what the day has already cost them. I think there needs to be some compromise, and race costs taken in to account if they expect people to continue supporting their clubs. However it seemed most of the riders were older and have been riding with those clubs for years and all jumped to their defence saying cold starts don’t harm engines 🙄
Finally bought my first 2t in about 20 years. Took it for a desert race for my first time riding it. I knew i was in trouble the second I started it cold and began to play with the throttle and it died and wouldn't restart. I was such a clueless idiot. Now I have some good info. Thanks
I have been doing exactly same procedure on 20 TPI since new and at140 hours when I did top end everything looked great. Never fouled a plug. I start bike And let it idle for 30 seconds do then pull cold start till motor at 100 then shut it off. Change into gear start up bike take it easy riding for first min then good to go.
Man these TPI bikes give me a headache, I just bought a new 21 300xc TPI and within the first half hour on the hour meter the bike locked up and destroyed the whole engine, dealer took it back and it turns out the head was machined in-properly at the factory and when it heated up it warped and allowed coolant to seep in and effectively destroyed the engine. I'll most likely get the bike back in April of 2021, on another hand I think people put way to much thought into this. The way I would warm up a TPI is the same as any 2 stroke, Just put your gear on. Start it with the air by pass knob and let it idle for a minute or two, turn the knob off and slowly go. Don't rip it through it's gears but lightly start riding the bike. EFI or carb the engine will load up and it's just generally not the best for a 2 cycle engine to come up to temp simply by idling it. A carb 2 stroke is a little different where I'd be less likely to have it warming up on it's idle, I'd blow it out while it's idling. just ride your bikes guys!
I've always heated up my carb'd two strokes this exact way when I was racing. Two strokes need to sit and warm up. No need to rip the throttle while its warming up...
thanks! was wondering why my 150i was so woolly feeling yesterday when I picked it up at the dealer on my first little spin in the parking lot. I let it warm up but not enough obviously. I had some idea it was the EFI making it run rich but its good to hear :)
Thank you for this video. It's amazing that people simply disregard what's written in the manual by the manufacturer in black and white (or just don't read it). Even if one is an experienced rider with 100's of hours on TPI bikes, KTM has hundreds of engineers that have spent tens of thousands of hours designing and testing these engines. They know best, so that's what I'll listen to.
@@hammer49946 same with my Husky and even my older GasGas. Only one I got recently has been with my Suzuki DR650, and it looks like they printed it in 1992 😂. With them all being online, I just have them on my phone. Sometimes I’ll print the torque tables or jetting charts and stick em on the wall in the garage.
Thanks! I bought a 2022 TX300i. worst customer service I've ever experienced in my life. Nobody could tell me anything about the bike. I am reading my manual as I watch this. I had no clue they had a cold start knob
Hope you’re enjoying the new bike! You had any issues? I’m picking up my te300i today and getting all nervous about engine seizing and such? Wondered about your experience so far? Thanks 🙏🏽
The F-7 (1973) Kawasaki wanted several minutes before I could ride it - and I would leave a big cloud of blue smoke for the first few hundred yards. After a mile - no smoke at all. It was carbed.
idk I abuse the crap out of my TPI. I dont care about warm up procedures and all that. Been dead reliable to me at over 300 hours. I let it sit for 30 mins sometimes, I pin it when I start it up sometimes and ride out. I still ride it when it over heats and boils over...idk dont really care and had 0 issues with my tpi. believe it or not still has the same ol spark plug. changed the piston at 150 hours thing barely had any wear and cylinder looked fine. im wondering if you can even foul these dam things. I had to use my buddies pre mixed gas for his old YZ250 since I ran out of gas didnt even foul. I rent mine out to people also and I know they dont take care of it and still everything works as it should. I think these TPI might have been overbuilt with reliability and people just focus on any little thing they can find. kind of like 1 bad cop = all bad cops
2020 300 EXC TPI, remaped ecu, idle screw mod then with the air screw all the way in and then half out, adjust idle, and yea plug. Now bike runs spot on. Zero fouled plugs ever tho.
so this is how i was warming up my XC-W 150 since the day I got it... then i saw another video telling me I was doing it wrong. That i needed to ride it and keep giving it small amounts throttle. My second time doing it that way was today and now my bike wont start... it just died and never came back to life. I suspect ive fouled a plug by warming it incorrectly. Needless to say I will not be hopping on and riding it cold any more. Thanks for the video!
Personally, I let mine idle for about a minute. Then I get on it and ride it really easy for 5 more minutes. Then I slowly start to get on it. It comes alive real quick.
How I warm up my carb bikes and haven’t fouled a plug even on my 125 haha. Let it idle till motor is warm to touch. Any way great video I think you should let any motor warm up properly before riding to prevent cold seizure
I haven't seen any of the bad running issues when my bikes cold that you're talking about. I'm not saying your wrong because we've learned that all these bikes run a little different. Since they don't come with a paper manual I never read it first so I started it just like all my other 2 strokes (no cold start and let it idle for about 30 seconds and go.) After a few minutes clear it out like normal and it's good to go.
Indeed, I have 150 hours on mine.. I start it and go, just slow the first 5minutes but then I just give it some. Never had issues. And I know lots off people with tpi's who do the same..
I've never left 2 stoke enduros idling from cold...start ride and short shift for bit no problem...I would be inclined to say if under light load,less possibility to foul a plug..from some gearbox karting experience back in the 90s... Anyway the 2018 gas gas hasn't chugged up a plug in 400 hours so I will carry on as always...
you don't need to use the cold start button for so long.I only use it for 20 seconds or so and then let it idle normally until the radiators are warm.And then ride it slowly.Never had a problem with that on my 2018 TPI(350 hours)
Thank you so much for the video. I have been burning spark plugs left and right, and hopefully, this will be helpful. Definitely going to give it a try.
@@AntiStressKit I suggest remapping your ECU. I had issues with my te300i with fuel injection. It was running too lean. I mapped it with Silber Turbos Enduro map and it's a different bike. Loving it now!
@@AntiStressKit Your CCPS is the culprit. replace the sensor and buy a couple extras. $40 a piece. Crank Case Pressure Sensor. I have a 2020 250XC that I pretty much gave up on until I learned about the CCPS fix. Had the bike 2.5 years and its got 13 total hours. I have fouled over 15 spark plugs in that 15 hour period. I tried EVERYTHING. Finally found some info on the crank case pressure sensor, replaced it, my bike instantly rode like It should and started up without fouling plugs left and right. I haven't fouled a plug since. Using the KTM recommended BR7ES spark plug.
Not sure why I get so excited on thsi subject. Maybe it is because it took KTM 11 months to fix my bike. Many but not all TPI's (~10% to 20% of all bikes) require the air Bypass screw to be adjusted. KTM labels it as an idle screw which it is not! My 2022's partial throttle vastly inproved to acceptable by turning it from stock 3.5 turns out to 2.0 turns out (in which is richening it). This helps warm up,.. and partial throttle openings. Every year of TPI came from the factory with the air bypass screw set at a different # of turns out. KTM N. America head of sales says they cannot tell the public but to get the tpi bikes to run properly they must get an after market software map, typically done via an after market ECU (I heard this from a senior bike tester at a major bike site but cannot find the video presently). I know the TwoStrokePerformance (who reflashes the stock ECU), Coober ECU from Austria and GETS ECU (which is also programmable) are 3 rather popular ones that do wonders for the bikes. A compression head from them also 100% improves everything. KTM put a brand new 300 CX TPI crate motor and oil pump in my 2022 after the original ran like crap from day 1 then seized 2 times @ 7.20 & 7.4 hours. KTM and the biggest KTM dealer in Canada told me to not warm it up at idle more than the time it takes me to put my goggles on! It now runs perfectly following their instructions (which I also followed once they told me this with the original motor. Actually they practically yelled at me to do it thier way. The way their staff riders and racers also do it). This does not mean put it into gear and scream it until it is warmer. It takes less than 60 seconds for it to get running very good once starting to ride it. Unles it is neear freezing temps out side. I now also have a rad temperature gauge (Trail Tech) also so I know the temps it is at. Warm it up while riding it is the best way. Just like cars now will never warm up idling them. Circulate the oil then start driving gently. I am a licenced mechanic and Cerified Engineering Tech, Electromics,.....not some RUclipsr with his "I think this it the way.."
So 21 300 TE 10 hrs, life long Honda guy. Fouled 2 plugs so far doing your warm up. No other running issues, just after the cold start knob goes in, she will die. Maybe 2023 we can get good EFI, this bike has the same efi as my 99 arctic cat snowmobile, love the videos!
Bummer! Try turning your air screw out a bit more. Should lean out the idle a bit, and might help with fouling. Also the BR7EIX is a bit more foul-resistant than the BR7ES.
Exactly, this is what happens when things are working perfectly and then you go to the internet and get information from someone looking to put out another video in his garage. I've never fouled a plug. Start it, wait 1 min idle, start giving a little gas on and off low RPM on the kick stand. 1 minute later I'm riding quarter to half throttle shifting for low rpm (not ultra low) for about another 5 min. That gets your muscles ready too. After about 5 min. I'm riding at about 85%, and after another 2 minutes (depending on how cold outside) I'm rocken' and rollin'. NEVER HAD ISSUES.
MY 2021 HUSQVARNA TE250I HAS NOW SEIZED 3 TIMES WITH ONLY 11 HOURS AND 48 MINUTES OF RUN TIME. Was told it was my fault and out of warranty(bought in Nov. - First seized in late Feb.) anyway so I had to pay full price. Didn't argue, but then after only a short ride or two, the bike started to run rough. Let it warm up for a very long time(10-15 minutes) rode down the trail 2 miles and the bike stalled out and seized. Couldn't start it so I had to push it home. Second dealership said they fixed it, but could not really give me a straight up answer to what was actually wrong. After getting back from them I rode it down the trail this time making it only 5 miles and the engine seized again causing me to almost crash. All along the way I was told these dealerships were reaching out to Husqvarna/KTM about it and once I finally got a call back from customer service after at least 3 voicemails and multiple email submissions the lady told me they had no record of cases on my VIN. The final dealership reached out and came back to say that KTM will not do anything to help and said it was all my fault. I am a degreed Engineer, have been riding for 17 years, and own 5 other bikes... so I know how to take care of them. NO YAMAHA, KAWASAKI, HONDA, TRIUMPH, SUZUKI, ARCTIC CAT OR SKIDOO THAT I HAVE OWNED/RODE HAS EVER FAILED THIS HARD, THIS CONSISTANTLY AND THE MANUFACTURER JUST TRY TO BLAME ME.
Wow that sucks. There must be something really wrong. A good mechanic should be able to diagnose why it seized, or at the very least point to a potential cause (cold seize, lack of oil, foreign matter, other?, etc).
I found letting it idle for 6.637 minutes, then full throttle with clutch in for 11.43 seconds. Then, immediately turn off cold start and ride in approximately 4 counter-clockwise figure 8’s with left arm straight out. Return to truck and continue putting on gear on, repeat procedure and ride. It’s that simple. Oh, unless the sun is out, but that’s a different story…….
Great advice and great video! Quick question, the manual from my 23' TE150 states "Switch off the engine if running at idle speed or stationary for a long time. Guideline ≥ 2 min" Now maybe this is only after the bike has been up to operating temp to prevent overheating. But I just wanted to get your thoughts since you're idling the bike for a lot more than 2 min? Thx!
Crashed recently in the first 10min of riding, cause my TPI wasn't fully warmed up. It refused to accept throttle when I wanted to jump up a rock. Now I know it has to be really hot for ideal performance
complete opposite to ktm 450 sxf. You fire it up and it's instantly hot. I mean 2-3 seconds after cold start you can't even touch the exhaust. Hottest bike I have ever ridden :D but also insane torque.
Great video. So in the summer, the ambient temp may be 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit but the engine could be pretty cold ( cold garage).... would you still use cold start button and let it idle until around 150 degrees or use cold start button for a for a little less? I followed your video when I got 250 xcw tpi home in 35 degrees on 3 different days and it worked great. Just curious about warmer days. Thanks again!
Very informative video. So, the cold start button is only if the outside temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. But what if the temperature is about 70 degrees Fahrenheit? Do I need to let the bike Idle without the cold start button until it reaches 135 degrees ? Would it be likely to foul a spark plug letting it idle for too long ? Thank you and keep posting this kind of videos.
I have a '21 TE 300. In the owners manual on page 40 under riding instructions it says " Switch off the engine if running at idle speed or stationary for a long time. Guideline greater than or equal to 2 minutes" Kyle's advice is to ride the bike slowly to warm it up. He isn't saying to go bounce it off the rev limiter.
That’s right - I wouldn’t recommend you let the bike idle for extended periods *once it’s warm*. The manual doesn’t mention a warm up procedure though. Kyle’s advice puts you at an increased risk of fouling a plug, due to the way the TPI works. No, it won’t always foul a plug - some ppl will never foul a plug following his advice. It doesn’t make it good advice for everyone though. I’m just presenting information and a dissenting opinion, and people can decide for themselves.
Engines are not designed to run cold, so you should try to warm up your bike sooner rather than later. (This is one of the reasons cars use thermostats, they stay closed during warm up to help warm the engine quicker) Running a cold engine for an extended period of time can actually cause ring and scoring damage, improper lubrication of parts, etc. If it takes 10 mins to warm up a bike that’s about 4-5 mins longer than it should take. That’s 4-5 minutes of premature wear that you can cause to the internals of an engine. I’d take a fouled plug over premature wear any day. So I’d try to warm it up faster than what you’ve mentioned in this video. Now that being said, you can also cause even more damage by warming up an engine too quickly, so you need to find a good middle ground. This goes for any engine, weather it be a 2 stroke, 4 stroke, Wankle. I’d say that Kyle actually has a pretty good technique for warming up a bike, IMO. But to each their own, you do what feels right to you, in the end, most techniques are only going to change the outcome by such marginal amounts, that it really doesn’t make any difference.
@@tikkabrno I grew up in Canada and we'd have our block heaters (for our cars) plugged in in the colder winter months, and sometimes we'd even have a magnetic oil pan heater plugged in to keep the oil warm before early morning startup. I doubt many people ever ride dirt bikes in the colder temps that I'm mentioning, so you wouldn't need all this on a dirt bike, but that's not to say that an oil pan heater "wouldn't" help, but probably overkill. odds are, you're going to wear the motor out by simply riding it day after day anyways. Stay on top of your maintenance is the most important of all.
Sounds like the same way I warm up a race engine, which leads me to believe this thing has very fine tolerances. What sort of hours do you get from a set of rings? Thing is you cant buy reputation, it can only be earnt. The engineers who make these things spend way more time on them than you or I so listen to them.
Do you have a video on how to properly start up the bike going from low elevation to high. I'm leaving from Georgia and going to Colorado in a week for the 1st time on my 2022 te300i. I know my 501 is a simple start, stop, wait then start again. The book says the same for the 300i but I've heard of people having issues in high altitudes with the 2 stroke tpi. Thanks in advance!
It should adjust on the fly since it has an ambient pressure sensor. Only the 18-19 TPIs required a restart at elevation. But if you have any weird running issues, a quick stop/restart should be all it needs.
This is the same way I warm up my TPI . If it is 45 f or below outside I will also duct tape over the the right side radiator for moderate and high speed riding.
Carb bikes are just so much better than these new tpi bikes. Ill stay with my carbureted ktm for a lot longer. With a 4 stroke fuel injection is great but this tpi still needs a lot more work.
It's the internet, not the TPI. These systems are amazing and work solid. I will never go back to carb bikes. The response and lugging on these TPI's are just outstanding. When you look at the complete system it's super simple. The internet has to make everything much more difficult than in real world.
WHAT!! Follow the manual? Unheard my good man. Poppycock. I’ll no bother with all that. I’m off to add a dash of oil in my gas tank to better lube the O2 sensors Makes the last longer, is the word Why it’s not in the manual, only Heaven knows Must have a word about it all with the local dealership . Bringing it back since it just won’t idle right. I heard a couple twits to the Power Valve solves everything Happy Trails
Do you recommend tapping up part of the rad when ambient temp is below 5-10c? That temp is what we have (on average) 6-months out of the year in Vancouver B.C It seems engine temp can vary greatly depending on how fast you’re going.
I’m in about the same region. I haven’t seen the need to tape up a radiator yet, riding at those temps, but it probably wouldn’t hurt if your speeds are a little faster. Maybe if it was below freezing, I’d try it.
Don't worry about that unless you are actually riding in snow. I know snowbike riders will cover up both rads if they are gonna plow into some powder. But cruising down ghe trails they will uncover the rads cause it will actually run hotter just going down a trail.
If i let my 150 tpi idle till its warm my plug fouls. The only i avoid fouling plugs is to let it idle for 30 seconds then ride the bikw around slowly with little throttle until its fully warmed up.
Also forgot to mention that it needs to have the latest extreme enduro map uploaded and the standard plug fitted. One dealer tried to tell me that the tpi models are going back to iridium plugs but this is rubbish. They run like a bucket of shit and it costs you $38 Australian to find this out and then the dealer says oh well that’s what KTM recommend.
So my buddy deleted his thermostat. I can't help but feel he stifling the warmup process and possible heading toward cold siezure situations. With coolant flowing from startup, the piston and cylinder dont warm together. Thoughts?
my 2021 TE150i is spongy as hell until the ecu determines it has warmed up and there really is ZERO point if even trying to ride it. And Im pretty sure trying to ride a cold piston in a cold cylinder on a 2 stroke is a good way to accelerate wear. MY problem now is I let the bike sit for 1 and a half years in the garage and now it wont start. It turns over but seems like its not getting fuel if I had to guess. I'm wondering if fuel sitting in an injector gums them up if not used. Only thing I can think of since all it did was sit there.
I do not care what you say. KTM, the people who designed and built the bikes, told me & the dealer to start my 2022 KTM 300 XC TPI this way: KTM "Start it, Start riding it normal. Do not let it idle . Do not touch the throttle if it idles for a few seconds. Do not baby it." They were very adament about this. Again ""Do not idle it to warm it up." The racers at the largest dealership in my country all start their 2 strokes, idle it for a maximum 10 - 30 second and then ride, race it normally. Even Slavens Racing a former KTM engine designer & tester for KTM factory racing (and a few other brands) says, "Do not let them idle. Start it, put on your goggle, then start riding, after about 1 minute ride normally and as hard as want." Also the KTM engines require no break-in as they are all put through dyno runs at the factory and thus are broken in. Do not heat cycle them. Just ride and enjoy from the very 1st minute you get the new bike.
The very same engineers that gave you 4cs forks, Mikuni carbs, the warping plastic idler gear, crap electric starters, and the husky subframe? I've found that dealers rarely know much of anything, so if you're basing your opinion on what a dealer said, well then I'm sorry. If you've spoken directly to an engineer in Austria that worked on the TPI engine, then I'd love to speak to them as well! Seems none will go on record saying anything about the TPIs, so we're stuck with what's in the manual (which isn't much).
In theory, on a TPI there are more components that COULD go wrong (oil pump, fuel pump, etc). However in the real world, in my experience they don’t seem any less reliable.
It's a different system on the new TBI bikes. It's still important to fully warm up your engine before getting on it hard, but the new TBIs may not like sitting and idling for too long.
Dont own a tpi bike but this makes total sense. On a carbed bike you can push the choke knob down and ride, tpi you have to wait for the cold start map to switch over 👍
Ok, I hate to bring this up, but what about messing with the power valve? My KTM 300 TPI just doesn't seem to have the kick that a stroke dirt bike should have. Any other suggestions?
Definitely have a play with tbe pv screw, had the same issue on my 20 te250i woke it up real good, actually would it back in a bit to get good balance of low end torgue and high end power
Depends on if they’re stock or not. Stock, the new TBIs are too rich down low and need to be “tended” during warmup to prevent fouling. Little blips can keep the TBI from loading up. Use the cold start knob. With an aftermarket tune, they don’t load up as bad and can be left to idle during warmup.
It’s simple. Let the bastard idle with the choke out for at least 5 mins. Otherwise get the spark plug spanner out. I always wait until the right hand side radiator starts getting some heat into it. This does however vary a little if you are running the thermostat eliminator hose kit.
Champion thanks . The bike shop sales reps didn’t really emphasise how long to warm it up for . There should be warning stickers on them new explaining all this . Thank Christ for RUclips and blokes like you
Have over 600hrs between a 2019 300tpi and a 2020 300tpi. Never have I fouled a plug and I live in a colder climate. Start it up with the cold start out leaving it idle for around 30 secs. Put the cold start back to normal and jump on and ride it it with around 1/4 throttle until it's warm. Good to go. Maybe thats what Kyle mentioned in his vid. No reason to over complicate. Maybe the 250s are a bit more touchy with fouling plugs.
Glad to hear you haven't had any issues! I believe by giving it any throttle while the engine is still cold, you're introducing MORE oil and fuel, which might increase your chances of fouling. Not every bike will have an issue though, so keep doing what works for you. There's definitely some variability with these TPIs - they all behave slightly differently.
Same here. No issue
Same procedure what local dealer mechanic told me... Id u re on track u can warm up 30-60s then shut down (keep dressing) and let spread heat across bike parts, then warm up again little bit and go slowly..
Same here no issue...
Same here no issue
Love the vid. I like how u pretty much called out Kyle brotherson, it’s the exact opposite of what he does
🥷
Kyle Brotherson is a RUclipsr I have grown to respect and trust. That being said, I hope he does a followup video either apologizing for misinformation and issuing a correction or his reasoning for going opposite to what the user manual says. I don't own a tpi bike so this doesn't affect me but I would like to see the record set straight over on DirtBikeChannel.
@@SmokeyRooster64 If you follow Kyle for anything but the most basic beginner information you will be in deep doodoo. Especially suspension set up. It's hard to believe he's been riding as long as he has and knows so little himself.
@@ddel5240 crazy. I'll make sure to research stuff more, thanks for the heads up. I haven't seen a suspension set up video from him yet but I just follow the user manual for now anyways.
@@ddel5240 he seems like a nice guy but all his videos are the same. It’s getting boring hearing him blab about nothing important
This is the BEST TPI warm up video out there!
This is exactly what I do. Number one comment people make is "you're going to foul a plug" Its never happened.
I know right... and so what. I'd rather foul 100 plugs than need to do a top end sooner
This is what I do for almost every bike with the exception of older 2 stroke carbureted bikes. Tolerances are changing while bringing up to temp and when you wrap on the throttle it can cause piston slap,etc.
I always recommend the factory owners manual or service manual over someone online. The manufacturer knows their product best. No engine was design to work in open loop efficiently, closed loop is what makes an engine operate where it should be. Adjustable fan settings can also cause issues with never reaching closed loop on occasion.
Dude, this was very detailed and informative. Thank you for setting it straight!
After fouling 6 plugs in 40 hours, I found this video. So far, your advise seems working. All you said in the video does make sense. Verdict is still out there, but if this really solves my issue, I can't appreciate you enough! I know there are many out there suffering from the same issue. Hope they will find this video soon.
Check your crankcase pressure sensor as well - if you’re fouling that much, it may be faulty.
I let mine warm-up while I'm wheeling it up the road
😂😂✊🏻💨
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one of the first thing i was told at a local mx shop when i started riding was always warm the bike up properly. you can actually cause a bike to seize starting it and riding immediately as the piston and cylinder will heat and expand at different rates.
i've had this argument recently with some clubs and surprisingly a lot of riders who claim to have ridden for decades.
i started racing timecard enduros and they don't let you start or warm your bike before you set off.
you have to wait for your start minute then start and head straight out on your sighting lap. I was amazed how many riders from the club gave me abuse on the facebook page when i asked why we have to cold start. they said things like timecards are traditionally about testing a bikes reliability 😵💫 so in other words they believe the race is about intentionally doing something that could destroy your engine
Agreed on the cold-starts in enduros. I think it’s absolutely stupid. 99% of the riders are weekend warriors out there - why force them to put undue stress on their machines?
@WA semi-hard enduro.
This was my argument, so these races are run by SEEC (south eastern enduro combined) which is a group of clubs in the south east of England that come together to run a timecard series and a hare n hounds series.
Its only the timecard enduro’s you have to do a cold engine start. They allow you a longer time to complete that first lap saying it gives you time to warm your bike up. But warming up should not be done as you ride.
They’ve had to cancel a few events this year due to low entries and that is most likely due to the fact that fuel here is around £1.75-1.90 per litre and things like tyres and oils have gone up around 30% in price. People can’t afford to race as often as events are on.
It costs me around £260 to attend the race, so thats fuel in the van, fuel for the bike and my race entry fee.
Thats not including any food or drinks on the day, or any breakages or parts i have to replace on the bike, nor general maintenance.
They’re wondering why theres low entries when people are forced to do a cold start that could seize a bike and cost the rider £400-700 to fix ON TOP of what the day has already cost them. I think there needs to be some compromise, and race costs taken in to account if they expect people to continue supporting their clubs.
However it seemed most of the riders were older and have been riding with those clubs for years and all jumped to their defence saying cold starts don’t harm engines 🙄
Finally bought my first 2t in about 20 years. Took it for a desert race for my first time riding it. I knew i was in trouble the second I started it cold and began to play with the throttle and it died and wouldn't restart. I was such a clueless idiot. Now I have some good info. Thanks
Great advice. I really appreciate you clearly explaining the technical background so we can have a fuller understanding of what is going on.
I have been doing exactly same procedure on 20 TPI since new and at140 hours when I did top end everything looked great. Never fouled a plug. I start bike And let it idle for 30 seconds do then pull cold start till motor at 100 then shut it off. Change into gear start up bike take it easy riding for first min then good to go.
Man these TPI bikes give me a headache, I just bought a new 21 300xc TPI and within the first half hour on the hour meter the bike locked up and destroyed the whole engine, dealer took it back and it turns out the head was machined in-properly at the factory and when it heated up it warped and allowed coolant to seep in and effectively destroyed the engine. I'll most likely get the bike back in April of 2021, on another hand I think people put way to much thought into this. The way I would warm up a TPI is the same as any 2 stroke, Just put your gear on. Start it with the air by pass knob and let it idle for a minute or two, turn the knob off and slowly go. Don't rip it through it's gears but lightly start riding the bike. EFI or carb the engine will load up and it's just generally not the best for a 2 cycle engine to come up to temp simply by idling it. A carb 2 stroke is a little different where I'd be less likely to have it warming up on it's idle, I'd blow it out while it's idling.
just ride your bikes guys!
Picking up my new te300i today and after Honda dual sports the TPIs are making me a little nervous. Thanks for the video! 🙏🏽
I've always heated up my carb'd two strokes this exact way when I was racing. Two strokes need to sit and warm up. No need to rip the throttle while its warming up...
thanks! was wondering why my 150i was so woolly feeling yesterday when I picked it up at the dealer on my first little spin in the parking lot. I let it warm up but not enough obviously. I had some idea it was the EFI making it run rich but its good to hear :)
Thank you for this video. It's amazing that people simply disregard what's written in the manual by the manufacturer in black and white (or just don't read it).
Even if one is an experienced rider with 100's of hours on TPI bikes, KTM has hundreds of engineers that have spent tens of thousands of hours designing and testing these engines. They know best, so that's what I'll listen to.
I didn't get a manual. KTM went "green" the salesman said lol.
@@hammer49946 same with my Husky and even my older GasGas. Only one I got recently has been with my Suzuki DR650, and it looks like they printed it in 1992 😂.
With them all being online, I just have them on my phone. Sometimes I’ll print the torque tables or jetting charts and stick em on the wall in the garage.
Good to know, and thanks for sharing. I certainly haven’t been warming up mine long enough 😬
Thanks! I bought a 2022 TX300i. worst customer service I've ever experienced in my life. Nobody could tell me anything about the bike. I am reading my manual as I watch this. I had no clue they had a cold start knob
Exactly same experience! Tx300 never knew it had a choke (cold start).
Thank you for the video you provided! I just got my bike and wondered why it felt off. Thank you again, great information!
Hope you’re enjoying the new bike! You had any issues? I’m picking up my te300i today and getting all nervous about engine seizing and such? Wondered about your experience so far? Thanks 🙏🏽
@@lukefish7562 I got a 22 te250i and runs like a champ. Better than my old xr250r actually. Only have like 4 hours on it tho
Looks like some good wet WA double track. Fun stuff in the PNW. Loving my GasGas too!
The F-7 (1973) Kawasaki wanted several minutes before I could ride it - and I would leave a big cloud of blue smoke for the first few hundred yards. After a mile - no smoke at all.
It was carbed.
idk I abuse the crap out of my TPI. I dont care about warm up procedures and all that. Been dead reliable to me at over 300 hours. I let it sit for 30 mins sometimes, I pin it when I start it up sometimes and ride out. I still ride it when it over heats and boils over...idk dont really care and had 0 issues with my tpi. believe it or not still has the same ol spark plug. changed the piston at 150 hours thing barely had any wear and cylinder looked fine. im wondering if you can even foul these dam things. I had to use my buddies pre mixed gas for his old YZ250 since I ran out of gas didnt even foul. I rent mine out to people also and I know they dont take care of it and still everything works as it should. I think these TPI might have been overbuilt with reliability and people just focus on any little thing they can find. kind of like 1 bad cop = all bad cops
2020 300 EXC TPI, remaped ecu, idle screw mod then with the air screw all the way in and then half out, adjust idle, and yea plug. Now bike runs spot on. Zero fouled plugs ever tho.
Definitely a simple injection system. All in 2-D with minimal sensors. Works fine for an enduro bike.
Great video. I just bought my first dirt bike, a 2023 TE150.
so this is how i was warming up my XC-W 150 since the day I got it... then i saw another video telling me I was doing it wrong. That i needed to ride it and keep giving it small amounts throttle. My second time doing it that way was today and now my bike wont start... it just died and never came back to life. I suspect ive fouled a plug by warming it incorrectly. Needless to say I will not be hopping on and riding it cold any more. Thanks for the video!
Personally, I let mine idle for about a minute. Then I get on it and ride it really easy for 5 more minutes. Then I slowly start to get on it. It comes alive real quick.
Your videos on tpi’s are priceless mate
You are a good mechanic man . Thanks
How I warm up my carb bikes and haven’t fouled a plug even on my 125 haha. Let it idle till motor is warm to touch. Any way great video I think you should let any motor warm up properly before riding to prevent cold seizure
This might be your calling, great video!!
I haven't seen any of the bad running issues when my bikes cold that you're talking about. I'm not saying your wrong because we've learned that all these bikes run a little different. Since they don't come with a paper manual I never read it first so I started it just like all my other 2 strokes (no cold start and let it idle for about 30 seconds and go.) After a few minutes clear it out like normal and it's good to go.
Indeed, I have 150 hours on mine..
I start it and go, just slow the first 5minutes but then I just give it some.
Never had issues. And I know lots off people with tpi's who do the same..
Nahh hes just wrong ahahhaha
I've never left 2 stoke enduros idling from cold...start ride and short shift for bit no problem...I would be inclined to say if under light load,less possibility to foul a plug..from some gearbox karting experience back in the 90s...
Anyway the 2018 gas gas hasn't chugged up a plug in 400 hours so I will carry on as always...
We’re not talking about carbs though - this vid only applies to TPIs.
you don't need to use the cold start button for so long.I only use it for 20 seconds or so and then let it idle normally until the radiators are warm.And then ride it slowly.Never had a problem with that on my 2018 TPI(350 hours)
What is this "ride it slowly" ?
@@Andy-co6pn in the low revs
Thank you so much for the video. I have been burning spark plugs left and right, and hopefully, this will be helpful. Definitely going to give it a try.
Did this help?
@@johnchafin3817 Hi. Unfortunately the warmup procedure did not help. There root cause for my burnt plugs has yet to be identified :-(
@@AntiStressKit I suggest remapping your ECU. I had issues with my te300i with fuel injection. It was running too lean. I mapped it with Silber Turbos Enduro map and it's a different bike. Loving it now!
@@cody1hound thank you
@@AntiStressKit Your CCPS is the culprit. replace the sensor and buy a couple extras. $40 a piece. Crank Case Pressure Sensor. I have a 2020 250XC that I pretty much gave up on until I learned about the CCPS fix. Had the bike 2.5 years and its got 13 total hours. I have fouled over 15 spark plugs in that 15 hour period. I tried EVERYTHING. Finally found some info on the crank case pressure sensor, replaced it, my bike instantly rode like It should and started up without fouling plugs left and right. I haven't fouled a plug since. Using the KTM recommended BR7ES spark plug.
Not sure why I get so excited on thsi subject.
Maybe it is because it took KTM 11 months to fix my bike.
Many but not all TPI's (~10% to 20% of all bikes) require the air Bypass screw to be adjusted.
KTM labels it as an idle screw which it is not!
My 2022's partial throttle vastly inproved to acceptable by turning it from stock 3.5 turns out to 2.0 turns out (in which is richening it).
This helps warm up,.. and partial throttle openings.
Every year of TPI came from the factory with the air bypass screw set at a different # of turns out.
KTM N. America head of sales says they cannot tell the public but to get the tpi bikes to run properly they must get an after market software map, typically done via an after market ECU (I heard this from a senior bike tester at a major bike site but cannot find the video presently).
I know the TwoStrokePerformance (who reflashes the stock ECU), Coober ECU from Austria and GETS ECU (which is also programmable) are 3 rather popular ones that do wonders for the bikes. A compression head from them also 100% improves everything.
KTM put a brand new 300 CX TPI crate motor and oil pump in my 2022 after the original ran like crap from day 1 then seized 2 times @ 7.20 & 7.4 hours.
KTM and the biggest KTM dealer in Canada told me to not warm it up at idle more than the time it takes me to put my goggles on! It now runs perfectly following their instructions (which I also followed once they told me this with the original motor. Actually they practically yelled at me to do it thier way. The way their staff riders and racers also do it).
This does not mean put it into gear and scream it until it is warmer.
It takes less than 60 seconds for it to get running very good once starting to ride it. Unles it is neear freezing temps out side.
I now also have a rad temperature gauge (Trail Tech) also so I know the temps it is at.
Warm it up while riding it is the best way.
Just like cars now will never warm up idling them. Circulate the oil then start driving gently.
I am a licenced mechanic and Cerified Engineering Tech, Electromics,.....not some RUclipsr with his "I think this it the way.."
Sweet thanks, this is what I have been doing but now understand why
So 21 300 TE 10 hrs, life long Honda guy. Fouled 2 plugs so far doing your warm up. No other running issues, just after the cold start knob goes in, she will die. Maybe 2023 we can get good EFI, this bike has the same efi as my 99 arctic cat snowmobile, love the videos!
Bummer! Try turning your air screw out a bit more. Should lean out the idle a bit, and might help with fouling. Also the BR7EIX is a bit more foul-resistant than the BR7ES.
Exactly, this is what happens when things are working perfectly and then you go to the internet and get information from someone looking to put out another video in his garage. I've never fouled a plug. Start it, wait 1 min idle, start giving a little gas on and off low RPM on the kick stand. 1 minute later I'm riding quarter to half throttle shifting for low rpm (not ultra low) for about another 5 min. That gets your muscles ready too. After about 5 min. I'm riding at about 85%, and after another 2 minutes (depending on how cold outside) I'm rocken' and rollin'. NEVER HAD ISSUES.
MY 2021 HUSQVARNA TE250I HAS NOW SEIZED 3 TIMES WITH ONLY 11 HOURS AND 48 MINUTES OF RUN TIME. Was told it was my fault and out of warranty(bought in Nov. - First seized in late Feb.) anyway so I had to pay full price. Didn't argue, but then after only a short ride or two, the bike started to run rough. Let it warm up for a very long time(10-15 minutes) rode down the trail 2 miles and the bike stalled out and seized. Couldn't start it so I had to push it home. Second dealership said they fixed it, but could not really give me a straight up answer to what was actually wrong. After getting back from them I rode it down the trail this time making it only 5 miles and the engine seized again causing me to almost crash. All along the way I was told these dealerships were reaching out to Husqvarna/KTM about it and once I finally got a call back from customer service after at least 3 voicemails and multiple email submissions the lady told me they had no record of cases on my VIN. The final dealership reached out and came back to say that KTM will not do anything to help and said it was all my fault. I am a degreed Engineer, have been riding for 17 years, and own 5 other bikes... so I know how to take care of them. NO YAMAHA, KAWASAKI, HONDA, TRIUMPH, SUZUKI, ARCTIC CAT OR SKIDOO THAT I HAVE OWNED/RODE HAS EVER FAILED THIS HARD, THIS CONSISTANTLY AND THE MANUFACTURER JUST TRY TO BLAME ME.
Wow that sucks. There must be something really wrong. A good mechanic should be able to diagnose why it seized, or at the very least point to a potential cause (cold seize, lack of oil, foreign matter, other?, etc).
This was informative, thank you for making this video.
I found letting it idle for 6.637 minutes, then full throttle with clutch in for 11.43 seconds. Then, immediately turn off cold start and ride in approximately 4 counter-clockwise figure 8’s with left arm straight out. Return to truck and continue putting on gear on, repeat procedure and ride.
It’s that simple.
Oh, unless the sun is out, but that’s a different story…….
🤣😂😅
Great advice and great video!
Quick question, the manual from my 23' TE150 states "Switch off the engine if running at idle speed or stationary for a long time. Guideline ≥ 2 min" Now maybe this is only after the bike has been up to operating temp to prevent overheating. But I just wanted to get your thoughts since you're idling the bike for a lot more than 2 min? Thx!
For TPI bikes, idling really doesn't seem to hurt them. Once it's fully warmed up, there isn't a need to let continue to idle tho.
This is the most informative video I have found, is the ECU mapping the same for a 2018 te 250i, I can't wait to try out the new method next weekend
Awesome video man and super helpful!
Crashed recently in the first 10min of riding, cause my TPI wasn't fully warmed up. It refused to accept throttle when I wanted to jump up a rock. Now I know it has to be really hot for ideal performance
complete opposite to ktm 450 sxf. You fire it up and it's instantly hot. I mean 2-3 seconds after cold start you can't even touch the exhaust. Hottest bike I have ever ridden :D but also insane torque.
My 350 was the same way - no real warm-up needed!
had to put thermostat onto my yz250 for cold./winter riding, 2 strokes are just way too efficient. lectron FTW.
Good to know some credible info for my new bike! Thank you
Did you pick up a TPI?
@@WASemiHardEnduro Yep. Just got a TE 300 yesterday!
Woot!
Great video.
So in the summer, the ambient temp may be 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit but the engine could be pretty cold ( cold garage).... would you still use cold start button and let it idle until around 150 degrees or use cold start button for a for a little less? I followed your video when I got 250 xcw tpi home in 35 degrees on 3 different days and it worked great. Just curious about warmer days.
Thanks again!
I don’t use it unless the ambient is 50 or less, so in that case if the garage is over 50, I wouldn’t use it.
WA Semi-Hard Enduro thanks for the clarification and the video.
People like you are the reason RUclips is so great! 🍻
Very informative video. So, the cold start button is only if the outside temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. But what if the temperature is about 70 degrees Fahrenheit? Do I need to let the bike Idle without the cold start button until it reaches 135 degrees ? Would it be likely to foul a spark plug letting it idle for too long ? Thank you and keep posting this kind of videos.
The TPI should be able to idle fine without fouling a plug. I still let mine warm up to about 130+ (on the radiator gauge) regardless of ambient temp.
Great video!
I wish I had the budget to afford that much tire shine spray. Lucky guy.
🤣 Tusk has an alternative to SC1 that’s much cheaper
Awesome! Very informative.
I have a '21 TE 300. In the owners manual on page 40 under riding instructions it says " Switch off the engine if running at idle speed or stationary for a long time. Guideline greater than or equal to 2 minutes"
Kyle's advice is to ride the bike slowly to warm it up. He isn't saying to go bounce it off the rev limiter.
That’s right - I wouldn’t recommend you let the bike idle for extended periods *once it’s warm*. The manual doesn’t mention a warm up procedure though.
Kyle’s advice puts you at an increased risk of fouling a plug, due to the way the TPI works. No, it won’t always foul a plug - some ppl will never foul a plug following his advice. It doesn’t make it good advice for everyone though. I’m just presenting information and a dissenting opinion, and people can decide for themselves.
Engines are not designed to run cold, so you should try to warm up your bike sooner rather than later. (This is one of the reasons cars use thermostats, they stay closed during warm up to help warm the engine quicker) Running a cold engine for an extended period of time can actually cause ring and scoring damage, improper lubrication of parts, etc. If it takes 10 mins to warm up a bike that’s about 4-5 mins longer than it should take. That’s 4-5 minutes of premature wear that you can cause to the internals of an engine.
I’d take a fouled plug over premature wear any day.
So I’d try to warm it up faster than what you’ve mentioned in this video. Now that being said, you can also cause even more damage by warming up an engine too quickly, so you need to find a good middle ground. This goes for any engine, weather it be a 2 stroke, 4 stroke, Wankle. I’d say that Kyle actually has a pretty good technique for warming up a bike, IMO.
But to each their own, you do what feels right to you, in the end, most techniques are only going to change the outcome by such marginal amounts, that it really doesn’t make any difference.
@@evanwilliams6352 might buy my Huskys an electric blanket each. Get them toasty warm before I wake them up 😁👍
@@tikkabrno I grew up in Canada and we'd have our block heaters (for our cars) plugged in in the colder winter months, and sometimes we'd even have a magnetic oil pan heater plugged in to keep the oil warm before early morning startup.
I doubt many people ever ride dirt bikes in the colder temps that I'm mentioning, so you wouldn't need all this on a dirt bike, but that's not to say that an oil pan heater "wouldn't" help, but probably overkill. odds are, you're going to wear the motor out by simply riding it day after day anyways. Stay on top of your maintenance is the most important of all.
@@evanwilliams6352 coldest temps I'd ride here would be 0°C or 32°F. Mild compared to what you have to deal with 😬👍
Thank you for this video, that was very informative and easy to understand. I plan on buying a TPI dirt bike in 2021 (hopefully).
Go to the dealer and get a map update. Map 104 is the current, bike runs amazing and uses far more oil
Sounds like the same way I warm up a race engine, which leads me to believe this thing has very fine tolerances. What sort of hours do you get from a set of rings? Thing is you cant buy reputation, it can only be earnt. The engineers who make these things spend way more time on them than you or I so listen to them.
Thanks for posting this! Where did you get the phone mount!?
HondoGarage - it's called the Perfect Squeeze
@@WASemiHardEnduro thank you!
Thank you very much sir!
What is the gopro mount you are using. Looks solid.
It’s awesome! shop.wannabes.life
Thank you. Great vid
Exactly how I do my gasgas 300ex never fouled a plug
I fouled the plug on my 20' Husky 250 TE simply by letting it idle too long waiting for fan to turn on.
Two stroke basics. Carb or no carb, excessive idling seems like a crap idea.
100% this video is kind of bullshit. Fouled plugs also from letting my bike idle too long....
And I've warmed my bike like this and idled it for 7-8 minutes and never fouled a plug.
@@jswervy16 how many hours?
85 with 40 race hours
Do you have a video on how to properly start up the bike going from low elevation to high. I'm leaving from Georgia and going to Colorado in a week for the 1st time on my 2022 te300i.
I know my 501 is a simple start, stop, wait then start again.
The book says the same for the 300i but I've heard of people having issues in high altitudes with the 2 stroke tpi.
Thanks in advance!
It should adjust on the fly since it has an ambient pressure sensor. Only the 18-19 TPIs required a restart at elevation. But if you have any weird running issues, a quick stop/restart should be all it needs.
This is the same way I warm up my TPI . If it is 45 f or below outside I will also duct tape over the the right side radiator for moderate and high speed riding.
do these bikes not have a thermostat?
@@alistairbalistair9596 yes , but they run so cool a bit of radiator blocking helps.
Carb bikes are just so much better than these new tpi bikes. Ill stay with my carbureted ktm for a lot longer. With a 4 stroke fuel injection is great but this tpi still needs a lot more work.
TPI has some strange variability for sure, but people are starting to really figure them out. I’ll never go back to carbs.
It's the internet, not the TPI. These systems are amazing and work solid. I will never go back to carb bikes. The response and lugging on these TPI's are just outstanding. When you look at the complete system it's super simple. The internet has to make everything much more difficult than in real world.
I like the way you mounted the Tusk fan temperature gauge. It might have already been asked. Can you show us how you did it please? 🙏
It’s a small “L” bracket from Home Depot, mounted to one of the fan bolts. Then double sided tape to stick the gauge to the bracket.
@@WASemiHardEnduro which is better, stock fan or trail tech with guage?
@@fz10rider47 I haven’t used either (I’m using the Tusk fan). But if it were me, I’d go w the oem fan all day long. It’s cheaper.
@@WASemiHardEnduro just feel the radiators for the warm up?
@@fz10rider47 yeah when right side rad is hot you’re good to go
Is that a tusk fan and temp gauge? I just bought the same bike can’t wait till spring.
Yes it is
100% agree 👍
I also have a TX that I plan out adding a license plate to. What parts did you end up needing to source?
I got the whole kit from True North Motos
WHAT!! Follow the manual? Unheard my good man. Poppycock.
I’ll no bother with all that. I’m off to add a dash of oil in my gas tank to better lube the O2 sensors
Makes the last longer, is the word
Why it’s not in the manual, only Heaven knows
Must have a word about it all with the local dealership . Bringing it back since it just won’t idle right. I heard a couple twits to the Power Valve solves everything
Happy Trails
Do you recommend tapping up part of the rad when ambient temp is below 5-10c? That temp is what we have (on average) 6-months out of the year in Vancouver B.C It seems engine temp can vary greatly depending on how fast you’re going.
I’m in about the same region. I haven’t seen the need to tape up a radiator yet, riding at those temps, but it probably wouldn’t hurt if your speeds are a little faster. Maybe if it was below freezing, I’d try it.
Don't worry about that unless you are actually riding in snow. I know snowbike riders will cover up both rads if they are gonna plow into some powder. But cruising down ghe trails they will uncover the rads cause it will actually run hotter just going down a trail.
So don't use the cold start if I live in desert with weather 100 degrees
I heard you get hot spots because the water pump ain't spinning without revs? I have 450 KTM SX
If i let my 150 tpi idle till its warm my plug fouls. The only i avoid fouling plugs is to let it idle for 30 seconds then ride the bikw around slowly with little throttle until its fully warmed up.
Thanks for the great advice. Does one need to do anything different for a 150 tpi?
nope. I have a 300 and 150. Warm the same
Also forgot to mention that it needs to have the latest extreme enduro map uploaded and the standard plug fitted. One dealer tried to tell me that the tpi models are going back to iridium plugs but this is rubbish. They run like a bucket of shit and it costs you $38 Australian to find this out and then the dealer says oh well that’s what KTM recommend.
OK, let it idle for 1 beer. Got it!
Pretty much!
How did you mount your tusk fan controller? I hate how there’s no mount!
Small metal bracket from Home Depot!
So my buddy deleted his thermostat. I can't help but feel he stifling the warmup process and possible heading toward cold siezure situations. With coolant flowing from startup, the piston and cylinder dont warm together. Thoughts?
Yeah, I'm not sure deleting the thermostat on these bikes is a good idea. I don't see any benefit, and the TPIs are cold blooded enough already.
I’m riding a 2022 Ktm 300 xc-w and use the same warm up process….no problems so far
I just picked up the same bike today. Doing my RUclips research on it now lol. Did you do the idle screw update?
@@hammer49946 no I’ll have to look it up on Utube
First thing... get ride of TPI injectors and relocate them where they should be. At the reed block.
The TX300 is my dream bike I wish I had one.
I need to break in my 23 300 xc. Since my gas is pre mix does this procedure not apply to me? TIA
No just the TPI bikes.
my 2021 TE150i is spongy as hell until the ecu determines it has warmed up and there really is ZERO point if even trying to ride it. And Im pretty sure trying to ride a cold piston in a cold cylinder on a 2 stroke is a good way to accelerate wear. MY problem now is I let the bike sit for 1 and a half years in the garage and now it wont start. It turns over but seems like its not getting fuel if I had to guess. I'm wondering if fuel sitting in an injector gums them up if not used. Only thing I can think of since all it did was sit there.
You'll probably have to go through the whole fuel system after letting it sit that long. Could be anything from the pump to filters to injectors.
I do not care what you say.
KTM, the people who designed and built the bikes, told me & the dealer to start my 2022 KTM 300 XC TPI this way:
KTM "Start it, Start riding it normal. Do not let it idle . Do not touch the throttle if it idles for a few seconds. Do not baby it."
They were very adament about this. Again ""Do not idle it to warm it up."
The racers at the largest dealership in my country all start their 2 strokes, idle it for a maximum 10 - 30 second and then ride, race it normally.
Even Slavens Racing a former KTM engine designer & tester for KTM factory racing (and a few other brands) says, "Do not let them idle. Start it, put on your goggle, then start riding, after about 1 minute ride normally and as hard as want."
Also the KTM engines require no break-in as they are all put through dyno runs at the factory and thus are broken in. Do not heat cycle them. Just ride and enjoy from the very 1st minute you get the new bike.
The very same engineers that gave you 4cs forks, Mikuni carbs, the warping plastic idler gear, crap electric starters, and the husky subframe?
I've found that dealers rarely know much of anything, so if you're basing your opinion on what a dealer said, well then I'm sorry. If you've spoken directly to an engineer in Austria that worked on the TPI engine, then I'd love to speak to them as well! Seems none will go on record saying anything about the TPIs, so we're stuck with what's in the manual (which isn't much).
How is the reliability on these ? Should I stick to carbs or go TPI.
In theory, on a TPI there are more components that COULD go wrong (oil pump, fuel pump, etc). However in the real world, in my experience they don’t seem any less reliable.
Do you do the same warm up on the 2023 tbi husqvarna tx300?
It's a different system on the new TBI bikes. It's still important to fully warm up your engine before getting on it hard, but the new TBIs may not like sitting and idling for too long.
Agree
Dont own a tpi bike but this makes total sense. On a carbed bike you can push the choke knob down and ride, tpi you have to wait for the cold start map to switch over 👍
Ok, I hate to bring this up, but what about messing with the power valve? My KTM 300 TPI just doesn't seem to have the kick that a stroke dirt bike should have. Any other suggestions?
PV adjustment can definitely alter how the power is delivered.
Definitely have a play with tbe pv screw, had the same issue on my 20 te250i woke it up real good, actually would it back in a bit to get good balance of low end torgue and high end power
Where’d you get the temp gauge??
Thanks
It comes with the Tusk fan kit.
to much oil cant damage the engine and plugs are cheap.
What would be the procedure on a carb bike, and how to avoid fouling spark plugs ?
Really depends on how the carb is tuned. Generally don’t want to let carbed two stroke idle for very long at all though.
All 2T'S are cold blooded. They like to run on the hot side. And, who reads the owners manual? 😂
Does this procedure work on the new TBI 2024 bikes?
Depends on if they’re stock or not.
Stock, the new TBIs are too rich down low and need to be “tended” during warmup to prevent fouling. Little blips can keep the TBI from loading up. Use the cold start knob.
With an aftermarket tune, they don’t load up as bad and can be left to idle during warmup.
I fouled 3 plug on my brand new ( 3 hours on it ) 2023 250SX i use to rev it like the old carb bikes when warming it up could this be the reason?
The TBIs are different and this advice doesn’t apply. I don’t have one.
I’d heard some get theirs remapped.
It’s simple. Let the bastard idle with the choke out for at least 5 mins. Otherwise get the spark plug spanner out. I always wait until the right hand side radiator starts getting some heat into it. This does however vary a little if you are running the thermostat eliminator hose kit.
I highly recommend NOT deleting the t-stat on these bikes. They’re cold blooded enough.