The valley pan wasn’t long enough so I had to splice a short piece In The bottom, I know it’s ugly but…. I didn’t order the materials. Are you talking about where you put the screws? People do it successfully either way, But you get better uplift resistance if you screw in the flat ( “tray”) If you do it right it will be good.
@@plankroofing yea valley join was unfortunate, thats why I liked to always measured my own jobs up. Right, I see a lot of USA jobs on here they always fix the screws in the pan (flat or tray), here in new zealand you just cant get away with that bc we have seriously high rainfall combined with extreme shifts in temps. In spring and autumn its not unusual to get a 25 deg C shift in temps in the day (could be 0c overnight and 25 the next day easy) this creates huge amount of movement in the building structure. Also earthquakes! I have seen pan fixed jobs here, they do leak eventually bro, the rubber washer on that tech screw won't last forever and its literally all thats holding the water out. 🤷♂ re better uplift, if you use the correct fix pattern and 10gauge screws its no issue honest, and we have hurricane force winds here!
Ahh ok Yes, I can see how if you use bigger screws it would make a difference, I’ve just seem and heard of roofs here in the states that leak more when they are screwed through the ribs. And this is that way most people do it here. In area where we get hurricane winds here, the codes require a screw on both sides of the rib at least 2 runs up From the eave. We did a roof on the south coast this way and it has been through several hurricanes now.
@@plankroofing yea its funny I see a lot of USA roofing and its always pan fixed, for a bit more clarity here in NZ long run metal roofing is bread and butter, other materials like asphalt shingles are high end, its opposite in states. Also, the way the roof is lapped ie which way the laps face is even important here, screws on the ribs hold the over and under ribs together better and obviously *all* the water comes down the pan. On wall cladding (siding in US) we pan fix, but on vertical walls, and must be cavity behind it. BTW you cannot get a guarantee on the metal from manufacturers if you were to pan fix, they would laugh and walk away 🤷♂ crazy stuff. Your health and safety is epic too, we cant do a job here without full scaffold around the edge, its crazy the differences
Thank you! I've been looking for a video of rake ending in the valley.
Your welcome! Glad I could help!
I’m trying to do this on a standing seam, but with style d on the Eve and box gable on the gable end. It’s a headache!
why have you fixed the metal in the tray?? we always fix on the ribs man, its gonna leak in the tray 😂
The valley pan wasn’t long enough so I had to splice a short piece In The bottom, I know it’s ugly but…. I didn’t order the materials.
Are you talking about where you put the screws?
People do it successfully either way,
But you get better uplift resistance if you screw in the flat ( “tray”)
If you do it right it will be good.
@@plankroofing yea valley join was unfortunate, thats why I liked to always measured my own jobs up. Right, I see a lot of USA jobs on here they always fix the screws in the pan (flat or tray), here in new zealand you just cant get away with that bc we have seriously high rainfall combined with extreme shifts in temps. In spring and autumn its not unusual to get a 25 deg C shift in temps in the day (could be 0c overnight and 25 the next day easy) this creates huge amount of movement in the building structure. Also earthquakes! I have seen pan fixed jobs here, they do leak eventually bro, the rubber washer on that tech screw won't last forever and its literally all thats holding the water out. 🤷♂ re better uplift, if you use the correct fix pattern and 10gauge screws its no issue honest, and we have hurricane force winds here!
Ahh ok
Yes, I can see how if you use bigger screws it would make a difference,
I’ve just seem and heard of roofs here in the states that leak more when they are screwed through the ribs.
And this is that way most people do it here.
In area where we get hurricane winds here, the codes require a screw on both sides of the rib at least 2 runs up From the eave.
We did a roof on the south coast this way and it has been through several hurricanes now.
@@plankroofing yea its funny I see a lot of USA roofing and its always pan fixed, for a bit more clarity here in NZ long run metal roofing is bread and butter, other materials like asphalt shingles are high end, its opposite in states. Also, the way the roof is lapped ie which way the laps face is even important here, screws on the ribs hold the over and under ribs together better and obviously *all* the water comes down the pan. On wall cladding (siding in US) we pan fix, but on vertical walls, and must be cavity behind it. BTW you cannot get a guarantee on the metal from manufacturers if you were to pan fix, they would laugh and walk away 🤷♂ crazy stuff. Your health and safety is epic too, we cant do a job here without full scaffold around the edge, its crazy the differences
You always have the camera shot too close to see the full view , step back a couple feet please.
Sorry about that, I’ll try to keep that in mind.