Seeing this video reminds me of a issue I had and think anyone thinking of in stalling a duel post battery should read till the end. I have a 1969 RS/SS that I installed a sniper on a year ago. The car ran right off and ran great. After a few weeks , I started to have issues with the system. Called Holley Tech and they gave me a few ideas of what could be my problem. The main issue I had was the car would just shut off. I checked all the wiring and installed ground straps everywhere Holley told me to. The car would still just shut off so I got tired of not having any trust in the sniper and pulled it off and put a Holley 750 double pumper on it. Car ran good and one day would not start. I checked the volts and had 13.5 but the car would stall. I checked all my wiring and all was good but still no go. Had a friend with over 35 experience come over and we put our heads together and checked the battery and all connections no go. We were checking the volts on the top post of the battery and had 13.5. We would get the car to start and run for 5 mins and stall. We started it up once more and when she stalled we checked the side post and only had 8 volts. After the car sat awhile we started it up and the side post would start out @ 13.5 but would drip very fast and @ 9 volts the car stalled. Went to a stereo shop and bought top post ends that have accessory connections and fixed my problem. I'm putting my sniper back on.
I want to say that I installed the Master kit on my 1968 F100 pickup using this video. It was 100% helpful. Made me feel very confident to do this. I did have to use the trouble shooting video afterwards to ensure 100% perfect startup every time. But I am a completely satisfied customer who enjoyed and appreciated this video. PS…My truck runs so much better now with the Sniper EFI kit as opposed to the 650 Carburetor that was on it. Thank you Holley for creating this content for your customers!! 👍🏻
I have constant startup problems with my 69 f100 to the point i hardly drive it. Gonna have my mechanic install this. Looking forward to trusting my truck on long drives
Where did you find the fitting to connect your return line? I'm looking at Evil Energy's website and others trying to track this part down for my installation. I'm using 3/8" line for supply and return like advised in Holley's install guide. Any info or link is greatly appreciated!
While you installing the power wire to the fuel pump 11:42, install the nut you left off securing the rear axle to the spring! Good video awaiting my Hyperspark EFI Ignition box to complete the install. Mike
It’s always best to run the return with a drop tube so the fuel doesn’t pour from the top of the tank. Use HDPE or fuel hose that is fuel resistant inside and out. If you use metal, make sure it can’t touch the bottom and won’t fatigue and end up on the bottom. It should end just above the tank bottom and not too close to the pickup screen. Fuel pouring in from the top can make bubbles that can be drawn into the fuel pump when the tank is partially full. Yeah I know, just another thing to do.
Did the same setup on a 68 camaro. Ran fine for a short time, then RFI issues occured. Since signal wires are not shielded, be orepared to have RFI interference with Ignition System and Alternatir as shown here. Additionally the 12V os sensitive to pulsating voltage from old eystems. Still barely running after 3 years of hassle....
put the super sniper on a 425 caddy motor, added twin 63AR turbos. It starts first turn over and runs very strong. Doing the same on a 5.3 now. A great product. Make sure to have good electrical connections.
I know this is an old video but I just recently purchased this efi system and will be installing around the first of the year. I'm planning on recording the process and upload it when I'm done. Looks like a really good product.
One of the big advantages of this system compared to FiTech is you have a memory card in the handheld that allows you to save the tune. You can make modifications, upload the tune, try them out and decide whether or not you want to keep them. If not, you can simply load the old tune. It also has a very powerful learn table (short term fuel trim) that allows you to merge it with the main table and smooth out the rough edges. Really cool to see it in 3D, gives you a much better idea of what you're doing. Additionally you can download the full suite of Terminator and run it full size on your laptop. I prefer that mode when we make a tuning run and can make changes along the way to test different options. We were running an LS3 with 4L65e and it defaulted to a WOT shift rpm at 6,000 rpm. We didn't like that and knocked it back down to 5,200 rpm for a better "normal' driving style. Lots of other options including full scanning options to pinpoint problem areas, great stuff priced fairly. Only thing I don't like is there is only one Wide Band O2 sensor, you have to upgrade to the full Dominator product to get two sensors.
I had the terminator efi kit on my truck and I could never get it to run right. After a year and a half of messing with it, I said the hell with it and went back to carb. I just finished swapping it back over and I couldn’t be happier! This efi crap really is cool stuff, but it’s simply not quite “there”. I don’t care what anybody says, but carbs are simply more reliable. No sensors to go bad, no Ecu no fry, and no extra 15lbs of extra wiring harness. If I ever did efi again, I’d either LS or Coyote swap it. 😉
Thank you for posting such an informative video. I watched it twice before starting the install, read the instructions between and now watched it twice more as I'm working on the install. The instructions are very good, it's still helpful to see it done.
The Sniper EFI should be engineered to use the standard fuel lines, fuel pump and float level fuel system while using only a pulse fuel injector controlled electronically. That would reduce the installation hassle to the oxygen sensor, the throttle body EFI and the display/computer. That would encourage more people to do the conversion.
Got mine in today, planning on installing it this weekend. Hope it lives up to the hype. Install will be on a FE 390 engine, will be put on a BBF 429 when the build is done.
Great video! I'm a good backard mechanic but not this good. My question is, where do I find a mechanic that has the skills to convert my classic Chevy carb. to the Holly Sniper system. I'm in NJ but am willing to travel to have this done right.
I am curious to know, what additional load is placed on the electrical system when you go from carbureted to EFI (whether throttle-body or multi-port)? Obviously all the added electronic doo-dads have some current draw, so it's not impossible that an EFI conversion could push your existing alternator over the edge, but I can't seem to figure out how probable that is. I've looked at specs for various EFI conversion systems and current draw is not mentioned. Maybe it's typically so small that it rarely, if ever, causes a problem. I'd just like to know if I need to upgrade my alternator and charge wire before making the jump to EFI.
My kit did not include any throttle studs or kick down link. Call Holley about that and they said I had to fabricate my kick down link and go buy a throttle stud. The instructions said they were included. Also got shorted one #6 fuel line fitting. 1972 Mustang Mach 1 2 barrel
Does the 3.5" touch screen need to be connected the whole time or only when i want to make adjustment. I dont want to have that dangling around or mounted anywhere like an old school GPS screen. Can i just disconnect it once im done setting up? thanks
My only complaint is like what I've heard from others, the pedal is stiff just off idle. Every time I stop and try to start, the throttle goes from 5 to 20 and tires chirp loud. The solution is to replace the secondary arm with one that prevents them from opening up off idle and closer to 40 percent. Not sure why Holley designed them to open up so soon.
With the xflow , are you soppose to still run the other harnesses into the car if not using them ? I see there are no weatherproof caps for the connectors included. Also if the car already has an electric pump set up in the car do you still need to wire the fuel pump wire to the pump in that is on the harness?
I have the super sniper 650 and msd 6014 LS control box, I can’t find any wire diagrams showing how to merge these two systems together. Anything will help
Odd question. I see on the 1100 series it's built for smaller motors. How small would it still work on? If an alternate smaller injector is installed could the unit work on something as small as 660CC? I am part of a small but passionate group of Japanese KEI truck enthusiasts who are working with 3 cylinder 660cc engines.
Hi guys, Does this system support E85? I recognise the need to flow more fuel when running it and the implications that would have for HP. The reason I ask is in regard to running E85 to meet emissions temporarily before switching back to normal pump fuel. Cheers!
Can a Sniper EFI be used on a car with mid-60s Ford vacuum powered windshield wiper delay? When activated, the wiper governor introduces a small/intermittent vacuum "leak" which is sourced from the intake manifold. The "leak" is small but enough to be seen on a in dash vacuum gauge (perhaps 3-5 inches drop each wiper cycle).
@@crackjack8320 yes I have the idle set at 630 in drive and on EFI in park it jump to 700 750 so if I set rpm at 750 rpm on EFI in park when I shift to drive is the EFI going to compensate for it and raise rpm back to 750 or will it still it around 600 650
I've been trying to figure out were to place the water temp, forums all say on top of the intake before the thermostat. I have my heater hose there and a Dakota digital temp in the drivers head, glad to see the passenger side head will work fine. SBC 350
Just added a sniper to my 74 f250 with a 390, has edlebrock rpm heads and intake. Set the wizard but the throttle jumps. set idle as in video but doesn't hold after shut down and restart. noticed my map says about 45kpa, I live in Pa.
@@JoseOrtiz-jf3lr didn't get a answer but I did try a carb and intake and it needs shaving work to fit correctly. I imagine the efi would work great but it'd need a good intake that fits
I just installed the sniper Quadra jet on a Chevy chevelle 1969 396 big block and it doesn’t work, starts and dies the injectors put too much gas on it , gets flooded
The cable that's attached to the screen is pretty long. The wire attached to the sniper is short. You can plug/unplug it if you choose. I didn't care to have the screen inside the car at all times so I just ran it out the window and under the hood for initial setup. Then unplugged it. I do keep it in the car (coiled up in trunk) in case I feel the need to check something on the fly.
Great video. Answers a lot of questions, but I have a couple more. I want to install this on a Corvette with a 383 Stroker engine in it. Are the power leads long enough to get to the battery behind the drivers seat? Second, would it be possible to run the return line to a "T" located in the inlet line to the fuel pump? I'll be replacing a Holley 750. Is the sniper shorter than the Holley 750? Thanks in advance.
The power leads are roughly 6ft long, you will more than likely have to extend them for your location. The return line needs to go back to the tank, I made this mistake the first go around... Do *NOT* (TEE) into the supply line! I highly recommend using 3/8 hose for the return line. I initially used 5/16 and was having issues with the return side having too much pressure... To avoid any headaches or possible diagnosis/trouble shooting issues just run 3/8 supply and return directly to fuel tank right from the get go! The Sniper is the exact same height of a 4150 style carburetor.
It (pump rod) will slide out on its own when you remove the pump. I removed the rod on mine and reinstalled the pump on my stock 350/ 255 hp LM1 engine. I left the fuel pump to support the factory fuel tube to the filter which is front and center above the water pump. I also left the fuel return line from the filter and the fuel line from the filter that hooked up to the carburetor. Capped off the end of the fuel line fitting where it originally hooked to the carb and set the factory air cleaner with single snorkel and chrome cover. The setup just hides some of the Snipper unit to appear more stock.
If it's just a "stock" 454 with a Mild Cam the base Sniper will be plenty adequate! With no other mods other than a cam swap your probably around 300-350 HP. Base Sniper will support up to 650 HP Super Sniper will support up to 1250 HP
Bought 2 full kits. One for my 66 mustang restomod and one for my 65 mustang gt. Installed on my 65 gt and have been trying to get it dialed in. So far nothing but problems. Car keeps back firing and dying as I try and drive. Certainly had high hopes for this system and would be great if it would worked but as of right now I feel like this just isn't gonna work.
@@JerkVegas86 I'm not the one working on it. A 30 year ford mechanic is. He seems to finally got it dialed in. He did a lot of trouble shooting and in the end he seems to think it might have been rf interference with the wiring. Runs amazing right now other than the fact that it's overheating when it's hot outside. New issue to tackle. Doesn't looking like it's the cooling system. The radiator stays no higher than 180f but the engine overheats. Thank you.
12 weeks and my sniper still isn't back from repair they told me 4 to 6 weeks when shooting it out for repair, worse yet i get no response from Holley via email after 5 emails nothing.
I have the Sniper efi on my cadillac -67 with 429, and breakerless ignition. Would it do much difference to get the MSD ignition? Will it run even better? Would it be worth it? I live in Sweden, Europe so the cost for the MSD with shipping and customs to my door would be about 2x the price in US.
I can't find the bushing referenced at 4:05. Anyone else have this problem? Can anyone provide a link? Or maybe a Sniper EFI compatible coolant temperature sensor to fit 1/2" NPT instead of the provided 3/8"? Working on a '68 SS427 Impala. Thanks in advance.
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Seeing this video reminds me of a issue I had and think anyone thinking of in stalling a duel post battery should read till the end. I have a 1969 RS/SS that I installed a sniper on a year ago. The car ran right off and ran great. After a few weeks , I started to have issues with the system. Called Holley Tech and they gave me a few ideas of what could be my problem. The main issue I had was the car would just shut off. I checked all the wiring and installed ground straps everywhere Holley told me to. The car would still just shut off so I got tired of not having any trust in the sniper and pulled it off and put a Holley 750 double pumper on it. Car ran good and one day would not start. I checked the volts and had 13.5 but the car would stall. I checked all my wiring and all was good but still no go. Had a friend with over 35 experience come over and we put our heads together and checked the battery and all connections no go. We were checking the volts on the top post of the battery and had 13.5. We would get the car to start and run for 5 mins and stall. We started it up once more and when she stalled we checked the side post and only had 8 volts. After the car sat awhile we started it up and the side post would start out @ 13.5 but would drip very fast and @ 9 volts the car stalled. Went to a stereo shop and bought top post ends that have accessory connections and fixed my problem. I'm putting my sniper back on.
Man, Thanks for that info. Sorry you dealt with that, but glad you got it figured out!
Thank you for the information
I want to say that I installed the Master kit on my 1968 F100 pickup using this video. It was 100% helpful. Made me feel very confident to do this. I did have to use the trouble shooting video afterwards to ensure 100% perfect startup every time. But I am a completely satisfied customer who enjoyed and appreciated this video.
PS…My truck runs so much better now with the Sniper EFI kit as opposed to the 650 Carburetor that was on it.
Thank you Holley for creating this content for your customers!! 👍🏻
I have constant startup problems with my 69 f100 to the point i hardly drive it. Gonna have my mechanic install this. Looking forward to trusting my truck on long drives
Instant start, perfect idling, perfect fuel mixture in the full rev range
Most important! Anti-seize on the stainless steel O2 sensor clamp screws.
You better make sure the O2 sensor clears your drive line before you drill in your exhast
Copper antiseize!
Do I need to put antiseize on the O2 sensor threads?
Just installed mine the fuel return threw the fuel filler was easy. Runs way better on the built 454 than the 750 edelbrock ever did. Worth it
Where did you find the fitting to connect your return line? I'm looking at Evil Energy's website and others trying to track this part down for my installation. I'm using 3/8" line for supply and return like advised in Holley's install guide. Any info or link is greatly appreciated!
While you installing the power wire to the fuel pump 11:42, install the nut you left off securing the rear axle to the spring! Good video awaiting my Hyperspark EFI Ignition box to complete the install.
Mike
Have been considering a Sniper for a few weeks now and this video answered all my questions about the install. Very well done, thank you!
Best video out I've found on this style EFI install. Great informative install, direct to the point.
Simple, easy, straight to the point instructions. Definately making my choice for an EFI system easy
It’s always best to run the return with a drop tube so the fuel doesn’t pour from the top of the tank. Use HDPE or fuel hose that is fuel resistant inside and out. If you use metal, make sure it can’t touch the bottom and won’t fatigue and end up on the bottom. It should end just above the tank bottom and not too close to the pickup screen. Fuel pouring in from the top can make bubbles that can be drawn into the fuel pump when the tank is partially full. Yeah I know, just another thing to do.
Prestige motors boat motorsports 632 in.³ 1000 hp big buck Chevy
Did the same setup on a 68 camaro. Ran fine for a short time, then RFI issues occured. Since signal wires are not shielded, be orepared to have RFI interference with Ignition System and Alternatir as shown here. Additionally the 12V os sensitive to pulsating voltage from old eystems. Still barely running after 3 years of hassle....
put the super sniper on a 425 caddy motor, added twin 63AR turbos. It starts first turn over and runs very strong. Doing the same on a 5.3 now. A great product. Make sure to have good electrical connections.
I know this is an old video but I just recently purchased this efi system and will be installing around the first of the year. I'm planning on recording the process and upload it when I'm done. Looks like a really good product.
Do you have a link to that video? I have a 351 Windsor swapped fox body I’m looking at getting this kit for.
One of the big advantages of this system compared to FiTech is you have a memory card in the handheld that allows you to save the tune. You can make modifications, upload the tune, try them out and decide whether or not you want to keep them. If not, you can simply load the old tune. It also has a very powerful learn table (short term fuel trim) that allows you to merge it with the main table and smooth out the rough edges. Really cool to see it in 3D, gives you a much better idea of what you're doing.
Additionally you can download the full suite of Terminator and run it full size on your laptop. I prefer that mode when we make a tuning run and can make changes along the way to test different options. We were running an LS3 with 4L65e and it defaulted to a WOT shift rpm at 6,000 rpm. We didn't like that and knocked it back down to 5,200 rpm for a better "normal' driving style. Lots of other options including full scanning options to pinpoint problem areas, great stuff priced fairly. Only thing I don't like is there is only one Wide Band O2 sensor, you have to upgrade to the full Dominator product to get two sensors.
I had the terminator efi kit on my truck and I could never get it to run right. After a year and a half of messing with it, I said the hell with it and went back to carb. I just finished swapping it back over and I couldn’t be happier! This efi crap really is cool stuff, but it’s simply not quite “there”. I don’t care what anybody says, but carbs are simply more reliable. No sensors to go bad, no Ecu no fry, and no extra 15lbs of extra wiring harness. If I ever did efi again, I’d either LS or Coyote swap it. 😉
Thank you for posting such an informative video. I watched it twice before starting the install, read the instructions between and now watched it twice more as I'm working on the install. The instructions are very good, it's still helpful to see it done.
The Sniper EFI should be engineered to use the standard fuel lines, fuel pump and float level fuel system while using only a pulse fuel injector controlled electronically. That would reduce the installation hassle to the oxygen sensor, the throttle body EFI and the display/computer. That would encourage more people to do the conversion.
That's an interesting concept! We're trying to make it simpler with every iteration!
@Cybair Agreed.
@@ragingkajun86 so it can't be used with the original fuel lines? the new system is needed!
The old fuel lines may not hold the pressure that the injectors need to operate
carb'd engines don't have fuel systems capable of feeding an efi setup
Good video thanks. About to install on 500 cad. What fuel filters are those? Prefer not to spend hundreds on pretty billet ones, Thanks.
Carburetor is looking really good right now
Got mine in today, planning on installing it this weekend. Hope it lives up to the hype. Install will be on a FE 390 engine, will be put on a BBF 429 when the build is done.
Man you make this look easy.
This will take me probably a week 😢
We need to get one of these installed on our 360 in our old RV! Starting it on cold mornings is such a pain!
Great video! I'm a good backard mechanic but not this good. My question is, where do I find a mechanic that has the skills to convert my classic Chevy carb. to the Holly Sniper system. I'm in NJ but am willing to travel to have this done right.
Well done. Nice to see fuel pump location options I’ll have to study this and your distributor replacement videos
Do you have video installing the Holley sniper on a5.3 or 6.0 that was carburetor
Did you have to drill and tap for the temperature sensor install in the head?
Have a HEI coil thats not on distributor how does that one connect
@Holley At 8:35 -. do you recommend the ignition switched 12v line be fused? (If so what fuse rating?)
I saw nothing about the brown wire from/to the tachometer. Is it not needed?
Gonna be installing the two barrel version on my 83' Ranger 2.3L 4x4.
I am curious to know, what additional load is placed on the electrical system when you go from carbureted to EFI (whether throttle-body or multi-port)? Obviously all the added electronic doo-dads have some current draw, so it's not impossible that an EFI conversion could push your existing alternator over the edge, but I can't seem to figure out how probable that is. I've looked at specs for various EFI conversion systems and current draw is not mentioned. Maybe it's typically so small that it rarely, if ever, causes a problem. I'd just like to know if I need to upgrade my alternator and charge wire before making the jump to EFI.
Can you hook up a remote start alarm system to the system?
Where do I get battery terminal plugs like that. With the clamp?
Holy cow that's cool
can i still have the sniper control my timing with a 6al 2 programmable box ?
My kit did not include any throttle studs or kick down link. Call Holley about that and they said I had to fabricate my kick down link and go buy a throttle stud. The instructions said they were included. Also got shorted one #6 fuel line fitting. 1972 Mustang Mach 1 2 barrel
Master install kit comes with stud and kickdown you need lokar cable and bracket look up my torino he shows install of kickdown for sniper efi
Does the 3.5" touch screen need to be connected the whole time or only when i want to make adjustment. I dont want to have that dangling around or mounted anywhere like an old school GPS screen. Can i just disconnect it once im done setting up? thanks
With a Holley sniper Master kit I don't need to get an adjustable pressure regulator do I
My kit came with 2 broken connectors. The retaining clips are snapped off so the plugs won't stay connected. Does Holley sell them independently?
The only improvement would be a knock sensor option.
I thought those frame mounted pumps didn't like to suck fuel? So as long as the pump is below the fuel level it should be ok?
Why is the crossover fuel line diy style instead of what is on the box??
At 14:57 the diagram shows a 3/8 supply and 5/16 return. The printed installation instructions states for both to be 3/8. Which is correct?
My only complaint is like what I've heard from others, the pedal is stiff just off idle. Every time I stop and try to start, the throttle goes from 5 to 20 and tires chirp loud. The solution is to replace the secondary arm with one that prevents them from opening up off idle and closer to 40 percent. Not sure why Holley designed them to open up so soon.
Is this better than a regular intake manifold and cold air intake
Is this a universal kit
With the xflow , are you soppose to still run the other harnesses into the car if not using them ? I see there are no weatherproof caps for the connectors included. Also if the car already has an electric pump set up in the car do you still need to wire the fuel pump wire to the pump in that is on the harness?
Do you have they have a kid like this where you can have true duals or can you just have it off of one pipe
Got to change efi sniper from Celsius to Fahrenheit
How to change it tk fehrenheit
Where do I connect the transmission vacuum hose?
Is this just a reposted video of the original install video back in 2017
I would hope so. That battery was made October of 16.
Can a vehicle run without the smart phone using the blue system once everything is set up. Like if though I lost my phone and still need to drive home
I have the super sniper 650 and msd 6014 LS control box, I can’t find any wire diagrams showing how to merge these two systems together. Anything will help
What settign would be used if you are running a Ford Racing X cam in a 351W? Street/Strip?
Odd question. I see on the 1100 series it's built for smaller motors. How small would it still work on? If an alternate smaller injector is installed could the unit work on something as small as 660CC? I am part of a small but passionate group of Japanese KEI truck enthusiasts who are working with 3 cylinder 660cc engines.
will this work on a 1972 toyota catrina 1600cc single barrel carb ?
Hi guys, Does this system support E85? I recognise the need to flow more fuel when running it and the implications that would have for HP. The reason I ask is in regard to running E85 to meet emissions temporarily before switching back to normal pump fuel. Cheers!
what is part 526-8? i cant find it on the website
Great Video. Thinking of getting this
Can this be installed on a GM spread bore intake?
Damn this guy could play the next terminator lol
How do you hook up the 700 R4 transmission
Where was the overflow valve placed?
Can a Sniper EFI be used on a car with mid-60s Ford vacuum powered windshield wiper delay?
When activated, the wiper governor introduces a small/intermittent vacuum "leak" which is sourced from the intake manifold. The "leak" is small but enough to be seen on a in dash vacuum gauge (perhaps 3-5 inches drop each wiper cycle).
Does a automatic transmission need to be in drive when setting idle or still put it in neutral?
@@crackjack8320 will it not adjust and go back to the rpm that was set in park when put in drive? I was always told to set idle with car in drive
@@crackjack8320 yes I have the idle set at 630 in drive and on EFI in park it jump to 700 750 so if I set rpm at 750 rpm on EFI in park when I shift to drive is the EFI going to compensate for it and raise rpm back to 750 or will it still it around 600 650
So if I purchase this am I able to install on 318 2wd 1990 ramcharger without changing the intake manifold, ignition coil,and distributor?..
Any more information on how to identity what type of dizzy we have to what type of dizzy you recommend
So just to make sure, this system will work with a factory fuel tank?
And sending unit
The four barrel is permanent?? Or at low gas just work 2? Like a carburador
Wich model is it. (or part number)? thankyou.
I've been trying to figure out were to place the water temp, forums all say on top of the intake before the thermostat. I have my heater hose there and a Dakota digital temp in the drivers head, glad to see the passenger side head will work fine. SBC 350
Very nicely done
Just added a sniper to my 74 f250 with a 390, has edlebrock rpm heads and intake. Set the wizard but the throttle jumps. set idle as in video but doesn't hold after shut down and restart. noticed my map says about 45kpa, I live in Pa.
Is it supporting ss80 suzuki
What if I have completely separate dual exhaust? Do I run 2 o2 sensors or just hope for the best?
It only needs the mixture from one cylinder bank to learn and tune itself.
how do purchase this kit?
Would this work on a gen 5 454 with tbi ? Old peanut head ports and low end power would probably love this.
I have the same setup. Did you get an answer?
@@JoseOrtiz-jf3lr didn't get a answer but I did try a carb and intake and it needs shaving work to fit correctly. I imagine the efi would work great but it'd need a good intake that fits
Yes but you need new heads and intake.
What do I do about the fuel pump?
I just installed the sniper Quadra jet on a Chevy chevelle 1969 396 big block and it doesn’t work, starts and dies the injectors put too much gas on it , gets flooded
Wish I saw this 1hr ago. Purchased a reg carb
David Pinto do u not like the sniper?
David Pinto do u not like the sniper?
You did well
Bucking Bronco u not like the sniper?
@@bigblockbumpside2296 I'm personally not a big fan
What intake manifold is that?
Which kit do I need for s 400 sbc factory?
What if it’s an 89 Chevy with TBI?
Does the computer screen always need to connected or can you unplug it so you tuck the wires out of the way
The cable that's attached to the screen is pretty long. The wire attached to the sniper is short. You can plug/unplug it if you choose. I didn't care to have the screen inside the car at all times so I just ran it out the window and under the hood for initial setup. Then unplugged it. I do keep it in the car (coiled up in trunk) in case I feel the need to check something on the fly.
Great video. Answers a lot of questions, but I have a couple more. I want to install this on a Corvette with a 383 Stroker engine in it. Are the power leads long enough to get to the battery behind the drivers seat? Second, would it be possible to run the return line to a "T" located in the inlet line to the fuel pump? I'll be replacing a Holley 750. Is the sniper shorter than the Holley 750?
Thanks in advance.
The power leads are roughly 6ft long, you will more than likely have to extend them for your location.
The return line needs to go back to the tank, I made this mistake the first go around... Do *NOT* (TEE) into the supply line! I highly recommend using 3/8 hose for the return line. I initially used 5/16 and was having issues with the return side having too much pressure... To avoid any headaches or possible diagnosis/trouble shooting issues just run 3/8 supply and return directly to fuel tank right from the get go!
The Sniper is the exact same height of a 4150 style carburetor.
The Pcv valve on the 3/8 Manifold Vakuum ( Brake Booster)??? Please helps me!!
Does it matter which side the O2 gets installed?
No
Does the Chevy 350 require the fuel pump rod to be removed before installing block off plate?
It (pump rod) will slide out on its own when you remove the pump. I removed the rod on mine and reinstalled the pump on my stock 350/ 255 hp LM1 engine. I left the fuel pump to support the factory fuel tube to the filter which is front and center above the water pump. I also left the fuel return line from the filter and the fuel line from the filter that hooked up to the carburetor. Capped off the end of the fuel line fitting where it originally hooked to the carb and set the factory air cleaner with single snorkel and chrome cover. The setup just hides some of the Snipper unit to appear more stock.
I have a 454 mild cam what unit should I use thks
If it's just a "stock" 454 with a Mild Cam the base Sniper will be plenty adequate! With no other mods other than a cam swap your probably around 300-350 HP.
Base Sniper will support up to 650 HP
Super Sniper will support up to 1250 HP
Bought 2 full kits. One for my 66 mustang restomod and one for my 65 mustang gt. Installed on my 65 gt and have been trying to get it dialed in. So far nothing but problems. Car keeps back firing and dying as I try and drive. Certainly had high hopes for this system and would be great if it would worked but as of right now I feel like this just isn't gonna work.
Take it to a professional
@@JerkVegas86 I'm not the one working on it. A 30 year ford mechanic is. He seems to finally got it dialed in. He did a lot of trouble shooting and in the end he seems to think it might have been rf interference with the wiring. Runs amazing right now other than the fact that it's overheating when it's hot outside. New issue to tackle. Doesn't looking like it's the cooling system. The radiator stays no higher than 180f but the engine overheats. Thank you.
Great video well edited no Hollywood B.S just good old good work thank you
I was seriously considering this system until the return line issue was mentioned.Neat idea though
Just use the returnless style filter or the intank pump thats returnless.
Holley ecu screen turns off when cranking
Can we just not use an O2 sensor, not point in it for me
12 weeks and my sniper still isn't back from repair they told me 4 to 6 weeks when shooting it out for repair, worse yet i get no response from Holley via email after 5 emails nothing.
Nice job
I have the Sniper efi on my cadillac -67 with 429, and breakerless ignition. Would it do much difference to get the MSD ignition? Will it run even better?
Would it be worth it? I live in Sweden, Europe so the cost for the MSD with shipping and customs to my door would be about 2x the price in US.
Yes, an upgraded ignition would make a significant difference
Riddle me this.... the fuel pump has to be lower than the tank, yet it has to suck fuel out of the top of the tank... how does this make sense?
Can you control timing with an MSD 6AL?
Yes you can. Here is a video on how to set it up. ruclips.net/video/oBSiyeg4XCU/видео.html
@@Shantzonpoint Thanks!
I can't find the bushing referenced at 4:05. Anyone else have this problem? Can anyone provide a link? Or maybe a Sniper EFI compatible coolant temperature sensor to fit 1/2" NPT instead of the provided 3/8"?
Working on a '68 SS427 Impala. Thanks in advance.