ISO is RUINING Your FILMS | The TRUTH about ISO
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- Опубликовано: 13 июн 2024
- In this video, we'll uncover the truth about ISO and how it could be ruining your films. Learn how to properly set ISO to nail exposure in-camera for perfect shots every time!
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00:00 Introduction
00:34 What is ISO
01:19 Every Camera is different
02:21 High ISO or Low ISO?
03:29 How Cinematographers expose
04:04 Expose to the right
05:32 How I Expose my films 
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The day I figured out how to use my iso, image quality immediately improved. Thank you for breaking it down so that the filmmakers that are just starting out can get accurate information from RUclips! 🤜🏻🤛🏻
Do you recommend any video to understand how to use the iso ?
@@theopats2660I would look at some videos that talk about your specific camera. Gerald Undone has great info regarding the actual specs and dynamic range tests. What Alex is saying here is pretty spot on ✅
@@theopats2660 What camera do you have. Like he said each camera is different(some have dual, some don't, etc) and so its good to know where to start.
@@theopats2660bro this video just did exactly that. I’ve been learned what this guy is explaining in this video. I learned in forums over the years and years of shooting. I just told my wife this video would have been pure gold to me when I first starting out. Learn your native ISO. want the scene to look as is use lower base iso want it brighter use the higher native iso
Great video Alex, A couple of important points I think you missed.
1. Most cameras will skew or bias the overall number of latitude in stops available from a given camera above or below mid-grey when altering the native ISO. That is why the “native“ ISO is where the ratio of latitude is equal above and below mid-grey. I.e. Your Ursa has 14 stops of latitude. At its native ISO there are 7 stops above and 7 stops below mid-grey.
If you increase the ISO then there will be say 10 stops above midgrey and 4 below. And the reverse is true for lowering the ISO. That is why experienced D.O.P.s will increase the ISO in bright conditions (contrary to normal practice) to capture more information in the highlights. As long as you don’t blow the highlights so expose to the right if you can.
2. Whilst you are correct about equating ISO with Gain and doesn’t affect the amount of light actually hitting the sensor. That is only half the story. In fact it is more common to work the other way so use the ISO to get the desired shutter Angle or T stop in conjunction with the necessary shutter angle if lighting cannot be altered. Signal to Noise ratios will always change when you change the ISO as well. So increasing the ISO from native in bright environments will increase noise no matter what light is hitting the sensor.
Thanks Barry for the clarification I hope people read what you wrote it’s a great addition to the content. 🙏🏻
You are correct for BMD and most cinema cameras, but not all of them. Some use digital gain (acting as Exposure Index/EI like you described) and other use analog gain. Different circuitry.
That BTS of a Quiet Place was also shot on 35mm film stock, so the ISO was fixed at 500T based on the magazine tap color unless they pushed it in development
Very perceptive great comment
yeah I'm definitely feeling that this review is not explaining what can be done with the ISO because with your example for "example" is film 500t and it doesn't explain how its looks so dark on the monitor which means they probably closed the iris. That wasn't explained, but overall the video is visually pleasing pleasing and nice to see his perspective.
Wow I thought i understood ISO but this just completely flipped my mind!
Same here, my mind = blown 🤯
This is a amazing video! this subject is so overlooked and common with us creatives who are hands on everything from filming to post. we have to become experts in all things. But i love how you are truly honest about the issue and how you are sharing your experiences. we have all found this! I have so many people i want to share this video with. Thank you for all you content,
Amazing explanation! Loving all your content and the thorough well thought out explanations you deliver. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the insight of changing the iso making perfect shadows and depth for darker scenes. I’m going to give it a shot and see what I can do. 👍🏾 Thanks for giving us the secrets to perfection.
Awesome video and great explanation!!
Great explanation - thank you!
Videographer has mastered every aspect of shooting with a camera, cinematographer mastered lightning; the only difference there is. Your sensor works by absorbing light, so if theres more light u can get way better details on your videos. In high budget movies you will have whole team and companies dedicated just for lightning, because it makes ALL the difference.
*lighting*
@@ebinrock y mb, english isnt my native
You have no idea how much I needed this video!! Thank you very much! I appreciate the work and knowledge that you share! I pray you have continued success!
Of course man and thank you for the kind words
@@Alexzarfatifilms you're welcome!
Great video and perfect explanation!
This was very helpful!! Awesome work sir
I am a beginner in cinematography and your video will help me a lot in the futur, thanks !
Thanks man you did a great job from my newbie’s perspective anyway.
this is gold. no one is talk about this on youtube
Everyone is talking about this
A tip specific to Sony Cine EI, I learned recently in a Venice overview: to better retain detail in the shadows, set base ISO to the higher base ISO, and decrease the Cine EI value back down to the lower base ISO number. Apparently this can help it shift your limited number of stops in dynamic range towards the preferred highlight details or the darker shadow details.
Probably more important for the cheaper cameras that don’t have 15+ stops like the Venice does. I have an FX30 and it does seem to help given my camera only has 13 stops of dynamic range. I imagine a lot of people get ISO's impact confused with Dynamic range. You will get better shadows with a Venice with higher dynamic range and a dual base ISO of 800/3200 than you will get with less stops of dynamic range and 800/3200 ISO in the a7VI, especially if it is not properly exposed.
Regardless cameras these days are impressive and with good lighting and exposure skills(which I am still working on myself too) you can do epic stuff these days.
Is it Gain...or Grain (Noise)
I want to thank you for making this video, I use the song fs5 mk2 where the base iso in log is iso 2000. I was having trouble getting a good exposure where I don’t get that noise in the image. It was definitely a learning curve to learn how to expose for slog 2.
That was amazing my man.
What is the background music starting at 0:37 ?
I love it
Dude!!! So helpful!
Makes sense, good stuff!
Knowing more about the tools you use to expose on set would be really helpful too: monitors, histograms, light meters, anything else?
This was golden advice I appreciate it more then you know 💯
Very helpful!!
Generally speaking, if the overall scene is too dark, then do the following:
Resort #1: Add more light in your scene/set itself.
Resort #2: If adding more light can't be done, then open up the lens to a wider aperture if you can go wider and live with a shallower depth of field (if shallower DoF is not what you intend).
Resort #3: If opening wider on the lens is not possible, then increase ISO only as a last resort.
However, #2 and #3 should never need to happen if your preproduction planning is done properly. Never open the shutter degree past 180 degrees (unless your subject is 100% stationary or if you're intentionally going for a woozy dreamy look). Any movement within the frame while shooting at slow shutter speeds will look horrible and like video tape with that ugly streaking.
Makes the fx30 make a lot more sense now. Thanks bro.
Wow!!! Thank you so much for this one
great video! very clear explanation about iso. my only question now is, how do i find out the native iso of a camera? 😊
I've bein doin this in liv streams. Thanks for educating me on what it's called
In short - ISO boosts the signal that's captured. To get a brighter image you need more physical light physically hitting the sensor. For scenes you want to look darker, you need to shoot in "properly" exposed conditions (per the look you want), then grade darker - that's why monitoring LUTs are important.
EXACTLY very well said
lol you just summed up the video in a sentences lol
Or just shoot at a lower ISO like 400 or 200 then you don’t need the Lut
I just lower iso up to 1 stop for monitoring, and it’s worked very well. I typically will shoot at iso 500-640 for clean shadows, even for an FPE applied to the monitoring LUT I export from DaVinci. When I do this, I know EXACTLY what the final image will be, and it’s very reliable.
@@vincentkipping8353especially on Reds or Arris, or any other camera where you have flexibility in ISO and Kelvin. It’s very convenient.
Great advice!!!
Well put! Subbed.
Caramba! A melhor aula que já vi sobre ISO👏👏👏👏
Bang on. Low key moody scenes I shoot at iso 200. Cleanest image ever. Daytime shoot native for sure
Gotta have lights. Saturate the sensor with light. Even lightly lit shadows look way better than unlit shadows
Thanks 🙏🏾
The tips are great, but unfortunately they don't apply to filmmakers shooting events because we can't manipulate the light in the environment...
Yeah, I often just shoot a camera profile. Try and keep the iso low as i can. Not go pass 1600. Always think too that as long as the artiest can be seen then its good
Why does iso 800 preserve shadows better than 12800 on the FX3?
Thank you. I really appreciate your vides. I hope one day I can do 1/10th of what you do!
I would love a video explaining White Balance and your approach to white balance. Love the videos!
I’ll keep that one in mind
Same
Very helpfull. Thansen
It also depends on what depth of field you want. So if you want, say, a stop of 2.8 for shallow depth of field and your shutter pretty much has to stay at 180 degrees (unless you want some kind of motion effect), then you would set your ISO appropriately to get the correct exposure (or overexpose or underexpose to taste).
Great Tutorial man! The question to me is, why wouldn't you let the tubes or the bulbs go burn out. You can't see them with your eyes so you wouldn't with a camera.
nah bro this makes perfect sense! thank you for explaining it !
That’s awesome man I’m glad that made sense I was worried people wouldn’t get it
what’s the native for a sony a7iv
New subscriber…. This is a million dollar information
How does the image look on the fx3 at 12,800 iso? Ive heard that it gets a bit smoothed out since the nr comes into play at such large iso? I was looking to save up for the fx3 or the Panasonic S5IIX but I'm kind of stuck in the middle.
It really depends on the situation but honestly I’m very surprised and impressed with the ISO performance.
If you look at the dynamic range distribution for the URSA mini pro, you can clearly see that at the native ISO, you get 5.9 stops in the highlights and 8.8 stops in the shadows.
If you want to retain more detail in a dark scene, lowering the ISO to 200 will give you 10.8 stops in the shadows while only allowing 3.9 stops in the highlights.
For most people this is mind boggling. When it’s dark people typically boost their ISO instead of lowering it and increasing the scene luminance.
that is nice when you control the ligh
in documantry it is a different game!
I am not quite managing to control the ratio of the exposure, and control the difference of the object to the background
Sad part is that many people actively resist this advice because it feels counterintuitive or they simply haven’t grasped exposure yet
What i would like yo know is when to use V log and when not to. Personally i always think the only time to use v log is when you have full control of the lighting, when you don't then use a camera picture profile.
Those specific Dual ISO numbers on the FX3 only apply to slog3**
When I started out in photography, ISO stood for "International Standards Organisation". There was another standard, called ASA, which stood for "American Standards Association". Both were used in connection with the sensitivity of film to light, one American and one European, although the numbers were exactly the same. Oddly enough, although I live in Britain I would always talk about 200ASA film or 400ASA film. I find it a bit odd that the industry is now using ISO as the standard for digital camera sensors.
First thing is realizing that you don’t have the lights that larger sets have and just how much exposure is actually on scene. It all comes down in post so that the information is all there.
Then you have how deep the DOF is in actuality on so many films we all love. That just meant more lights. With digital, we can be tempted to think we don’t need as many lights to achieve these looks and that is truer in many cases…but yeah, this discussion about ISO natives and figuring out how much ambient light you actually need will make all the difference.
Thanks so much! What did you use for the red lazer?
I used a an aputure 300 with a red gel and a nanlite projector mount. I listed all my gear in the links in the description.
Here is a 10%off aputure: APalexzarfati10
Thanks dude. Did you just have someone move it on a swivel?
@@MikeMatsuiJr Yeah we loosened it on the C-stand so we could pan it back and forth. Here is a Full BTS of the project: ruclips.net/video/fqk9GVEURfg/видео.html
Thanks for being so responsive, very refreshing!
@@MikeMatsuiJr got you homie🙌🏻
So let’s say to get a shadowy moody film look, stick to native ISO and open IRIS to let more light in, and just stage lighting in a dark scene, To avoid noise?
Any input helps, I’m new.
FX3 - with sigma 24-70 DN II
I’m trying to film moody/ dark/ night scenes.
If your goal is really to teach a practical subject probably would be better if you actually just did a practical demonstration. It's kinda hard to teach advanced calculus in one's head. It's like, ok students put away your pencils. But I don't know, you kids today just make videos for views I'm not sure if you're really trying to explain this or just producing content
Yes. Show don't tell.
Shooting on the Sony A7IV, my base isos are 800 and 3200 in log I believe. Outside on a bright day, 800 may still be too bright of an image. So do I set my aperature to f8 or 9, or change my shutter speed higher? Or do I need to have an ND filter on a bright day?
ND filter for sure
just 'Thank You"!!
when you talked about over exposing, is it through the aperture? or maybe using ND filters? what's the most convenient in that case?
Master the lighting
I have a question! At 5:40, you mention that you set your camera to its native ISO of 800, lets assume you shot this scene at 24fps so your shutterspeed would be 1/50. You mentioned you "over exposed by 1 stop". Lets say the shot you really wanted was that clear depth of field but sharp shot so you'd be wanting that f/4 look (maybe)... so, my question is: did you increasing your apurture by 1 stop (so from f/4 to f/3.2) to over expose? Is that like the price you have to pay to get that look so you could properly color grade in post? Lets also say in this environment you cannot add more or increase your light to make sure you get that f/4 apurture and still over expose by 1 stop.
Also love the video, super super helpful for a noobie like me!
Of course, not talking about filmmaking, but if you have to shoot a live event and you don't have control over the lighting, then unfortunately you have to just open that aperture ("iris" on video cameras) and crank up that ISO, even if it means noise, to get a proper exposure.
love it!
I'd say that sometimes absolute image quality isn't as important as people think it is. Some of my favorite movies and shows are obviously very noisy (even with color shifting from high ISO scenes) and I'd say that 99% of people that aren't into cameras know or care about it. I notice all these things but my wife is just like "Damn that was a good movie".
So no, high ISO isn't ruining your films to average people who just want to watch a good film and don't pay any thought to noise. Its only for the people that know or care about those aspects. I'd say focusing too much on technical image quality and thinking that's the only thing people care about is ruining more films. BUT... this is a knock more on the click baity title of the video, the actual content is a very good crash course on exposure, which is definitely important!
This was helpful
When I figure out that I started saving money for buy lights. Now I own a 600ws and 2 200ws and I will buy couple small ones and some bar too
That was a good attempt but I feel as though you’ve tried to cram it all in to one video causing a drift in people’s ability to wrap their head around what your saying, it would almost be of more benefit to create more sub videos explaining certain aspects of what your trying to describe as a whole. All the best! Great visuals 🤙🏻
I thought the base iso was 640 on the fx3?? Damn 800 is beast!
Dope!
excuse me, how can I know my native ISO for my Canon 5D Mark IIII camera?
this is why ANY dir of photography should be starting off with film and learning how aperture, shutter and iso work together.. if you can get to a point where you can shoot film photos in super low light and have them come out clean.. youll def be fine handling any situaton in digital when you can literally look at a viewfinder for some guidance unlike film which you have to wait and develop.. just my opinion.. thats whats helped me understand lighting better.
I'm trying to figure out what the native ISO of my sony a7c but all i get from google searches that the native ISO is between 100-51,200. :/
It should be 800 since a7c utilizes the same sensor a7iii does. If you want to find it out yoursef, then switch camera setting to shoot in SLOG and look for the lowest ISO value without over- and underlining
is it bad if my camera has smoke coming out of the battery port?
Sounds like your ready for a BBQ
Sorry I’m not native english, could you explain me why you used 800 iso instead of 12800 for the fighter shooting
He's using his camera's native ISO. It means he's using the ISO the camera body has. Higher ISO would make lots of noise which makes the shadows look more grainy.
so, you use ND filter in all situation, indoor to?
For some reason I always do spose to middle
Taking film making courses in college, you're taught all of this and more
Hey Alex, your Discord link is broken. Have you shut down the server?
No unfortunately I forgot to put no time limit. I’ll. Sen you another link
Long story short Brighten your scenes with real light not just with your camera settings
Yeah but there’s more to it than that. It really depends on the situation and what you’re trying to preserve more the highlights or the shadows. If you have the opportunity to brighten the lights in your scene, then of course that’s always the better solution, but there are times where you want ISO even in bright light and conditions. It just depends on what you’re trying to accomplish.
Wedding videographers crying right now because they can’t control lighting. And a lot of wedding evenings are terribly lit
Those tips are obviously actual for controlled sets, not events and stuff. Sure thing there is no time to adjust any light at weddings
Gotta watch this like 3 times to get it.
Another thing you have incorrect is that neither the fx3 or fx6 have dual native iso. It only has one-800, please refer to Sonys website
The rule of thumb with ISO is higher = better highlight retention, lower = cleaner shadows (which you stated). Base ISO is just the ISO where the sensor is the most balanced. For instance, arri has 14 stops of dynamic range with a base of 800. So at 800 you have an equal 7 stops in the high lights and 7 in the shadows. As you raise and lower ISO that shifts around, so maybe at 400 you have 9 stops in the shadows and 5 in the highlights. That’s why you may want to drop to 400 if you are shooting a night scene. 1600 for sunny exteriors will always help hold the sky, etc.
It’s ultimately all subjective. ISO is a creative tool and there still isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way to use it. A DP I know, Scott Siracusano, will often set his ISO at 3200 and ND down to exposure because the noise begins to look like film grain. That’s a conscious creative choice he makes in the photography that always looks really nice and adds a lot of texture to his images. Knowing how your sensor handles the cameras dynamic range and noise pattern is important so that you can make informed decisions on how to approach your shots. Just remember that the actual DPs shooting in Hollywood don’t really care about ISO and will set it at whatever they want. One of the DPs of House of Cards once told me, “who gives a shit?”
Great video. Also to add on to your points, ISO only matters if you're shooting conpressed codecs. If you're shooting RAW, be it ProRes RAW, BRAW, R3D or any other flavour of RAW, no matter what you change your ISO to, the camera is pretty much only shooting at base ISO but showing a preview of what it would look like at your selected ISO.
Great point👍🏻
isnt the "exposing to the right" more for shooting on film? as film handles overexposure better and digital handles underexposure better? im just noob / amateur photographer and heard that somewhere
There are a lot of filmmakers who don't understand ISO and dynamic range chart provided by camera manufacturer. The reality is that the only 2 things you need to get great looking image and that is truly UNDERSTAND the dynamic range (middle gray) chart of different ISO provided by manufacturer of your camera! And lighting.
I do not understand why so many people still do not understand how cameras works... It`s so simple.
Probably because of mentalities like this instead of trying to inform people on something "so simple"
oh miami! hi fellow creator!
What up man
Forget about 'exposing to the right' please! It's just a photography myth from the internet. It does so much harm and confusion to beginners. Think about it: what is a histogram? It's simply a horizontal line ranging from 0 to 100, indicating the distribution of tones in your image. There's little valuable information to gain from it annd not at all helpful for the photo or video you want to create. If your shot is exposed to the left, the histogram just says most of your picture is dark (shadows, blacks). But think about it: if you're shooting at night in the city, it’s supposed to be dark. Trying to balance the histogram would just mess up your shot by overexposing everything. The histogram is useless. Use False Color or a waveform if you actually want useful information.
2:27 "higher'ing the ISO. Holy f#ck. Just wow. And this guy sells "courses".
For A7iii just keep iso lowest? Sorry noobie here😢
Next topic: PHOTONS are RUINING your SENSOR!!! | Shocking TRUTH About 1/4 20 THREADS!
iso is not an acronym. ey-soh not i.s.o. but people like to say i.s.o next to a.s.a because it sounds better.
You are 🙏🏾
It doesn't make to me
He’s lying! I did his suggested tips and my camera exploded!
Great video 🤙 very helpful tbh
Hahaha 😂
💥💥💥
Hi Alex! How are you? I'm from Argentina, right now I'm finishing my film degree at the University of La Plata, I've asked in several places why raising iso means better performance in reflections, but no one had an answer for me, can you have information about the technical reason for this? Thx.
Hey Francisco I’m not sure I’ve ever heard of that before
@@Alexzarfatifilms hey! Sorry, the word i wanted to use was highlights! Not reflections, sorry! 😂
This doesn't work the same way for all cameras. I shoot on a Red, and the ISO settings operate quite differently on these cameras.
Really? I’m curious what’s different
@@Alexzarfatifilms Unlike many other cameras where ISO is set before shooting and directly affects the exposure of the image, on RED cameras, ISO is metadata. This means that when you set the ISO on a RED camera, you are not changing the actual exposure of the captured image but rather defining an indication of brightness for the post-production process.
@@scharbeekois1030that’s true only for shooting in RedRAW