Thanks for a solid video! I am literally about to assemble my new machine and didn't know how to deal with the 2 air lines that are in the cabinet and plug into the bottom of the main post... your video just saved me a major headache :) I appreciate the help 👍
My tire machine is very very similar to that one. Read your manual and see if it requires oil ever so often. We have had trouble with the o rings in the bead breaker piston. The only other issue we have had with it is the plastic air lines around the wheel grip cylinders have gotten brittle and crumbled. I've been replacing them with rubber ones. You should be trouble free for quite a few years though. Great machine. Sure saves a lot of back pain. 👍👍
988 Tire Changer (950 with 2 helper arms) Deliveries require a forklift to unload OR pay for Residential delivery + $150 For clarification the 560 is the smaller unit up to about 18” rims has the square tube rear upright and requires assembly of the bead breaker. The 950 is the larger up to 22” rims, has the “Bead Blaster” and main rear upright is a round cylinder air tank. There's also the options of the 2 helper arms the #232 unit making the #988 unit and the other 300 with the black additional upright with 2 arms on it with a disk, the #300 unit making the #960. The Mayflower 988/680 pair can fit tight in a space about 80” wide IF the Balancer is turned sideways so shaft is out facing you. Other arm options will need more space. The 988 (950 changer with 2 extra arms) is about 45” deep. I used casters on the 988(950+ extras), Harbor Freight #62276 3” locking 100lb. NEED (QTY 8) regular 1/2”-20 nuts (ORDER or get at a regular hardware store. Home stores don't stock them but can order some). Unit is at or over the max weight of the casters so user beware. Remove rubber foot on bottom, just pops out. Install 1 nut all the way down on caster then insert up through hole and install 2nd. Caster shaft needs a spacer so could use 1/2” flat washers too instead of the first nut. Foot bracket is upside down U channel. 1 Upgrade I added was a 1/4” NPT street elbow to the main airline input on the regulator after removing the factory Japanese style fitting the US doesn't use. That allows the air hose to hang down when connected instead of straight out the back. Then used a 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” hose barb to a 6' section of hose for a whip to move the connection out where it's convenient. That way it's easy to connect when using. Then I added a 1/4” NPT quarter turn valve so machine can be disconnected without losing all air pressure in case air supply line is needed etc. Another upgrade I did was added a higher volume airline. The “Bead Blaster” is almost a joke and SLOW. If you see the size of airline and the regulator it runs through you'll understand. I've seen a few add a line at the Regulator. That technically does work but doesn't have the flow capacity I desired. So I added a line to the tank(rear upright). Remove the included Tee for the gauge. Tank bung is 1/4” NPT so I used a Milton s-646 1/4” NPT Hex nipple into the bung using 4 layers of Teflon Tape on all connections. Then I used a Milton s-655 Brass 1/4” NPT Tee which has 3 Female fittings. One end screws onto the previous nipple so the middle connection is centered and angled down and back a little. The included Tank gauge Tee then screws into the other end of the new Tee. Then the middle is a port for a new hose to connect Using a male 1/4” NPT fitting like Milton s-602 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” ID hose barb and a hose clamp etc. I cut about an 8' chunk of another 3/8” ID air hose. I strongly suggest not using 1/4” hose. Then a quick connect fitting on the end. I use and highly recommend the High Flow Milton Type V couplers. You can use a regular air chuck or make a little bead blaster that runs way better. Use a quick connect fitting then a quarter turn 1/4” valve then a short section of hose and an air chuck that locks on. This is a much higher volume short hose feed off the tank. Smaller and more hose length are restrictions. You can now swap chucks and fill higher psi tires and a higher flow bead blaster. But care must be taken using the new bead blaster as it's got straight tank pressure. So use carefully and once bead pops insert valve and use a gauge to fill properly. 680 Balancer Options/Upgrades Many truck rims will need an additional adapter cone with 5.5” diameter that's sold separately For best results the 680 Balancer, should be anchored to floor. Don't just bolt down unless floor is perfectly level where unit sits. Base is bolted down with (3) 3/8” threaded anchor bolts ideally with 2 1/2” of threads sticking up to level with. Method is below. I wasn't ready to anchor yet so leveled with 3 3/8” x 2 1/2” hex bolt, 6 3/8” flat washers, 6 3/8” nuts. A small thin rubber piece size of a tire patch works good on floor to help keep from walking across floor. Install a nut on the 3/8” bolt approx 1/16” from head of bolt, then a washer. Insert bolt FROM BOTTOM UP through holes on bracket then install 2nd washer and 2nd nut loose, then do same to other 2 holes/bolts. The lowest nut can be adjusted up and down to raise and lower the machine bracket sitting on it. Use a 2nd wrench as needed to hold the hex head while adjusting nut up/down. Use a 24” level on the side of the case to adjust till plumb side to side and front to back. Don't use the plastic tray on top, there's no way to know if it's level to anything. Use the base sides. Then when height is good tighten down the top nut to keep height. 1 wrench holding bolt head 2nd on top nut tightening. Essentially the machine bracket is sandwiched between 2 washers with a nut on top and below. Parking lot light posts are mounted similar for reference except threaded rods are in concrete. As the concrete anchors should be to secure it.
You didn't mention what air compressor you use for the 950. My recommendation is: Get the largest air compressor that you can afford, because this machine is AIR HUNGRY.
Thanks for a solid video! I am literally about to assemble my new machine and didn't know how to deal with the 2 air lines that are in the cabinet and plug into the bottom of the main post... your video just saved me a major headache :) I appreciate the help 👍
Thanks!
My tire machine is very very similar to that one. Read your manual and see if it requires oil ever so often. We have had trouble with the o rings in the bead breaker piston. The only other issue we have had with it is the plastic air lines around the wheel grip cylinders have gotten brittle and crumbled. I've been replacing them with rubber ones. You should be trouble free for quite a few years though. Great machine. Sure saves a lot of back pain. 👍👍
988 Tire Changer (950 with 2 helper arms) Deliveries require a forklift to unload OR pay for Residential delivery + $150
For clarification the 560 is the smaller unit up to about 18” rims has the square tube rear upright and requires assembly of the bead breaker.
The 950 is the larger up to 22” rims, has the “Bead Blaster” and main rear upright is a round cylinder air tank. There's also the options of the 2 helper arms the #232 unit making the #988 unit and the other 300 with the black additional upright with 2 arms on it with a disk, the #300 unit making the #960.
The Mayflower 988/680 pair can fit tight in a space about 80” wide IF the Balancer is turned sideways so shaft is out facing you. Other arm options will need more space. The 988 (950 changer with 2 extra arms) is about 45” deep.
I used casters on the 988(950+ extras), Harbor Freight #62276 3” locking 100lb. NEED (QTY 8) regular 1/2”-20 nuts (ORDER or get at a regular hardware store. Home stores don't stock them but can order some). Unit is at or over the max weight of the casters so user beware. Remove rubber foot on bottom, just pops out. Install 1 nut all the way down on caster then insert up through hole and install 2nd. Caster shaft needs a spacer so could use 1/2” flat washers too instead of the first nut. Foot bracket is upside down U channel.
1 Upgrade I added was a 1/4” NPT street elbow to the main airline input on the regulator after removing the factory Japanese style fitting the US doesn't use. That allows the air hose to hang down when connected instead of straight out the back. Then used a 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” hose barb to a 6' section of hose for a whip to move the connection out where it's convenient. That way it's easy to connect when using. Then I added a 1/4” NPT quarter turn valve so machine can be disconnected without losing all air pressure in case air supply line is needed etc.
Another upgrade I did was added a higher volume airline. The “Bead Blaster” is almost a joke and SLOW. If you see the size of airline and the regulator it runs through you'll understand. I've seen a few add a line at the Regulator. That technically does work but doesn't have the flow capacity I desired. So I added a line to the tank(rear upright). Remove the included Tee for the gauge. Tank bung is 1/4” NPT so I used a Milton s-646 1/4” NPT Hex nipple into the bung using 4 layers of Teflon Tape on all connections. Then I used a Milton s-655 Brass 1/4” NPT Tee which has 3 Female fittings. One end screws onto the previous nipple so the middle connection is centered and angled down and back a little. The included Tank gauge Tee then screws into the other end of the new Tee. Then the middle is a port for a new hose to connect Using a male 1/4” NPT fitting like Milton s-602 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” ID hose barb and a hose clamp etc. I cut about an 8' chunk of another 3/8” ID air hose. I strongly suggest not using 1/4” hose. Then a quick connect fitting on the end. I use and highly recommend the High Flow Milton Type V couplers. You can use a regular air chuck or make a little bead blaster that runs way better. Use a quick connect fitting then a quarter turn 1/4” valve then a short section of hose and an air chuck that locks on. This is a much higher volume short hose feed off the tank. Smaller and more hose length are restrictions. You can now swap chucks and fill higher psi tires and a higher flow bead blaster. But care must be taken using the new bead blaster as it's got straight tank pressure. So use carefully and once bead pops insert valve and use a gauge to fill properly.
680 Balancer Options/Upgrades
Many truck rims will need an additional adapter cone with 5.5” diameter that's sold separately
For best results the 680 Balancer, should be anchored to floor. Don't just bolt down unless floor is perfectly level where unit sits. Base is bolted down with (3) 3/8” threaded anchor bolts ideally with 2 1/2” of threads sticking up to level with. Method is below. I wasn't ready to anchor yet so leveled with 3 3/8” x 2 1/2” hex bolt, 6 3/8” flat washers, 6 3/8” nuts. A small thin rubber piece size of a tire patch works good on floor to help keep from walking across floor.
Install a nut on the 3/8” bolt approx 1/16” from head of bolt, then a washer. Insert bolt FROM BOTTOM UP through holes on bracket then install 2nd washer and 2nd nut loose, then do same to other 2 holes/bolts. The lowest nut can be adjusted up and down to raise and lower the machine bracket sitting on it. Use a 2nd wrench as needed to hold the hex head while adjusting nut up/down. Use a 24” level on the side of the case to adjust till plumb side to side and front to back. Don't use the plastic tray on top, there's no way to know if it's level to anything. Use the base sides. Then when height is good tighten down the top nut to keep height. 1 wrench holding bolt head 2nd on top nut tightening. Essentially the machine bracket is sandwiched between 2 washers with a nut on top and below. Parking lot light posts are mounted similar for reference except threaded rods are in concrete. As the concrete anchors should be to secure it.
I just ordered a very similar tire machine and this was extremely helpful! Thanks for sharing!
They work great, experience with many of them and very little problems,
Thanks so much for this. Just assembled mine by following your step!
At 5:45 can you tell me what that flat plastic plate is and where it goes? I can't figure out where it goes on mine... Thanks for the videos!!!
Very helpful!!!
Does it just plug into the wall outlet
You didn't mention what air compressor you use for the 950.
My recommendation is: Get the largest air compressor that you can afford, because this machine is AIR HUNGRY.
I started with a little baby one. Then bought the 80 gallon ingersoll rand from tractor supply.
I've never had a problem with a 3hp 22 gallon 115psi compressor unless you need to use the bead breaker multiple times in a row
What size air compressor do you use? Just bought my set don’t want to get a bigger one than I need to. Thanks
I bought a 80 gallon ingersoll rand from tractor supply. I'm very happy with it.
What type of oil is this mechine use
Hustler🔥🔥🔥💵
how heavy are these things to move by hand and a utility dolly (nothing hydraulic)
Not to bad. I had a neighbor use a bobcat to move them from the truck to my shop
Can change out air connect from 3/8 to 1/4 ???
It just screws on.
What are the two black peices on the deck at 13:13 of the video?
That was like a cover for the tire tool that came with the machine
What size compressor you use to run the tire machine
I have a big one from tractor supply.
I cant remember off the top of my head but it was like $1300 has a 80 gallon tank.