You have inspired me into taking care of my shoes and I can say it does not only change on my shoes, I cleaned my apartment, ironed my coat to match my shoes. I guess your video taught me to appreciate things I use every day. Thank you.
Congratulations,it shows attention to detail. People will notice that you are prepared to put in the effort and will see that applied to other areas of your life.
@@steventrosiek2623 Or perhaps they're just part of the 'throw away' society? Don't know how to care for their posessions and throw them away when they start to appear past their best. Either way, it's a sad state of affairs.
Honestly I wear cowboy boots pretty exclusively, and I have 3 really nice pairs that I always keep looking in top form and these videos gave me tips to learn things I was struggling to figure out. Nothing like a black mirror shine on a box toe Sendra.
Great and timely video! I just returned a pair of this book binder leather. I was told it was calf skin but sanded down. When i heard sanded down i knew it wasn’t right because I wanted superior calf skin. The guy was an A-Hole he responded quality is subjective. The smell of the shoes was very synthetic and like you said acrylic. Thank you for this.
Mr. Soto was very polite and didn’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings when comparing and describing the plastic shoe (my bad...the...the...other...well...the other type of shoe). In other words, you get what you paid for. Again, nothing wrong with that other shoe, but your feet will know the difference because of the confort and definitely you will get a stronger shine with real leather (I wonder if pig leather will work....jummm? 😉) Anyway, another great video by Soto’s Shoe Rejuvenation Services (yes...yes Mr. Soto....you can use that for your new shop👌). Can I have a witness and a big ooorahhhh! 👍🏻😊
When I was a young man, all that I could afford was the inexpensive book binder shoes. Mine were black and I would touch up the scuffs with a permanent black tip marker then spray them with clear polyurethane ( Rustolem). They looked just like new when I was done. Do not do this on expensive leather shoes.
In the 90s I worked in a paint store and would have to wear a tie and nice shoes. You couldn't avoid paint dripping or splattering on your shoes, so we would just Krylon Paint them black every couple of weeks.
I've learned so much about caring for my shoes from this channel. Sadly it's hard to find women's shoes made with the same quality, unless they are "vintage" or stiletto platform heels/pumps. I like a slight heel on dress shoes, but heels are not good for when you're on your feet all day. Many women's shoes these days are made from a lot of things, but it's hard to find actual leather ones that have a nice vintage appearance. Ntm many women's shoes run small/narrow in general and are mass produced. Eventually I'd like to start phasing more quality leather shoes into my wardrobe, but they are hard to find in my size. I do shine my work shoes when I get the chance, and it's really helped keep them looking nice even after a year and a half of everyday wear.
VictoryRoseArt absolutely i agree. I have a pair of Justin style L506 model. The leather is pretty good and good quality. I wear them almost everyday in a country where it rains almost everyday. I love them.
Great video. I loved how direct you were when introducing the subject, I didn't feel like I was being "cheated" into waiting for the meat and potatoes of the message.
As an airline captain I realize the importance of shoes for both uniform appearance and wear comfort. Going through metal detectors on a daily basis I’ve decided to go for a beautiful pair of metal-free Loake black brogues. After one day of wearing them I noticed the terrible creasing, and I didn’t understand how it can happen after only one day of use. It’s just now, after watching this video, that I’ve realized that I had bought polished leather/bookbinder shoes. I’ve bought Saphir products so that I can maintain them properly, but that’s all in vain since this is covered in plastic/acrylic.
I have. I am having a problem with my Frye women's oxfords and it was good to see him use a Bick product I used (a previous video) because I thought I had ruined my shoes. I just used wayyyy too much, 😆.
Preston, this may be the best video you have made! For those of us who are shining freaks like you, I think this was super educational! You have a gift for this skill, and I appreciate your efforts in sharing those secrets and tips with us who strive to be better. Your results are amazing. Keep them coming!!
Well I've had 2 pairs of Church bookbinder for over 25 years and never had an issue and they still look very good today, I look after them like I look after my more expensive shoes.
That's because Church's use Calf Leather in their Polished Binder (not Bookbinder) unlike cheap crap like Loake which use Corrected Grain which will crease and crack.
To those who are interested in, I use an excellent product on my bookbinder leather shoes, it's "Vernis Rife" by Saphir, it is quite famous here in France. It's a liquid global care. It does cleans, nourishes, protects and shine. It does eliminate significantly the wrinkles or scratches. It is available in black or neutral.
I think I remember a brand a long time ago advertising that their leather shoes didn't need polishing. It probably wasn't so much that they didn't need it as that it wouldn't have helped anyway. Thanks for clearing this up.
The burgundy shoes look like Florsheim Lexingtons. I used to wear them in college because they were the first pair of shoes I got for college. I bought them because of Florsheim's reputation, but they didn't last very long. I've since moved to Thursday Boot Co. for shoes and boots and couldn't be happier with them so far. I've had the shoes for nearly two years, and had them resoled last summer. They've served me well and will continue to do so for a long time, I hope. The boots I've had for just under a year, and they've just been resoled after nine months of hard wear, but they're also workhorse footwear that have so far been of stellar service to me.
Great tips! Great video! I used to use a cotton ball for a mirror shine. Mush softer than a cotton rag. As for the acetone issue, women use full strength acetone on our nails all the time. Yes, it dries the out but a good oil helps combat that. Just wash your hands afterwards.
I am an old veteran and I still enjoy taking care of my shoes and boots. I appreciate and understand how well shined foorwear can make you feel. I enjoy watching. Thank you.
I come from a armed service background. Dad, Brother are all officers in the armed forces. So have grown up seeing my dad's shoes and belt polished and shined. A trick that was taught to me and may be you can try is to just apply a light polish and leave it out in the sun for 5 to 10 minutes (just to warm up the shoe) then brush and shine with a clean soft cloth, repeat with wax. ........ Marcus
I recently bought a pair of book binder leather shoes made by Trickers Northampton. I like them. They are low maintenance because they dont absorb pigment from polish like full grain calf leather.
I have shoes like that. I've had them for so many years. It's hard to let go of them because of the sentimental value but I have to get over that. I remember buying them but I didn't know much about shoes then like I do now. Thank you for exposing these frauds.
A few years ago I bought a pair of Johnston & Murphy’s in an ox blood color and didn’t know why they haven’t taken to polishing until this video. It broke my heart because I love the shoes and the color and at $200 o expected more but where the color has scuffed it leaves a super bright red that sticks out so bad I’m embarrassed to wear them.
I think there's a (rare) third option: a corrected grain leather shoes made from high quality leather. I have a pair of Florsheim Bookbinder LWBs made in 1970 that are absolutely amazing. I believe they took a top grain leather and "corrected" it just enough to give it a patina look and a practical weather proof coating. What they created is a work of art that looks like today's museum calf. The shoes are six months older than I am and look brand new. Creasing doesn't hurt them. I wear them in bad weather and know with a wipe of a cloth, they'll be ready to go again.
Love the video. Very insightful, however, you fail to give information on HOW to recognize full calf leather?? Are there markings on the sole? Inside the shoe? . Are we forced to know exactly what full calf leather looks like from a simple eye test? How do can you make such a determination when shopping online and only given a photo of the shoe??? Need more info, please. Thanks.
Richard...it IS very hard to tell from photographs...I have bought leather hide from pictures online, and had to return stuff as it is not what I thought it was. Maybe ask the retailer?.. good leather seems to have tiny patterns to it where the animal's hair came out of the hide.
Hahaha! As a teenager back in the 90's I shined shoes at a country club. The bookbinder leather was indeed very popular then. I must have shined ten thousand pairs of shoes that looked exactly like the "cordovan" wing tips featured in this video.
So so agree....... I have noticed fine bridle leather /saddlery has changed massively too..Maybe as most people don't want to buy 'quality'?..Such nasty stuff about that will not accept leather conditioners...it just 'sits' on the surface.... proper bridle leather does indeed have a very different look...it absorbs conditioners beautifully and well cared for leather gets better as it is used...
I just picked up a pair of Allen Edmonds black with monk strap for $21 at the thrift store (no way I'm paying $500 for shoes). And gonna give them an overhaul. Bought some Saphir cream and polish from your website. Got nothing to lose on this deal 🙂 Love your vids!
Better quality ‘bookbinder’ from the likes of Tricker’s and Church’s creases less, but it isn’t the best for those who like to nourish and polish their shoes. I once ’thrifted’ a pair of Burwood brogues by Church’s and they definitely looked good after I applied cream and polish. I still have the before and after pictures.
I have a pair of trickers bookbinder shoes for over 10 years a they are in great shape . Instead of using traditional shoe care products I use 303 aerospace protectant and armor all to shine them and I go over the shoe every couple months . Instead of using shoe polishes and creams use plastic conditioners I get the 303 from Amazon the white bottle, and armor all from anywhere like autozone or Walmart .
When I was in the Army, we use to do spit-shine on our boots. However, we used water, alcohol, and buffed the shoe with the top of a women's nylon stocking.
This video saved me! I just ordered a pair of Allen Edmonds Greene Streep Mahogany, seems like they are corrected grain Leather. Now I'm definitely returning them.
Very useful video, thanks. I've often seen the gloss finish and felt there was something I didn't like about it. Now I know why! Quite a few shoes have it. Seen it on some Joseph Cheaney, a British shoe
I was actually emailing you about this exact same issue! You must have a lot of people contacting you about their book binder shoes. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It's only a matter of time 'til my old shoes hit the waste bin, but at least now I know not to waste expensive product on something that won't take!
After using Renomat it is best to spray with water or saddle soap to take off the renovator. You can also use the polish lid to hold the water and dip the cloth into it inbetween polish!
Excellent. Thank u so much. I am learning so much from u concerning different types of Leather, Authenticity and Shoe Makers. I luv ur work and always look forward to ur next Vid. Thank u so much for sharing!
I've only recently began to appreciate good, quality shoes. To date I've a pair of tan Grenson Nobles, Eremengildo Zegna Brown loafers and a pair of Louboutin Goodyear Welt , very dense linen. I've also a pair of Grenson Moccasins, but these aren't great quality and of course, the obligatory Versace black trainers! It's only since being in a position to start to shop for shoes at the higher end that I have noticed the difference between good quality leather hand made shoes and the ones that I was previously happy to buy on the High Street. The main difference is not so much in the appearance, but in the way that I have been looking after them. The Grensons, Louboutins and the Zegna are kept in their bags when not being worn and I also undo the laces when taking them off whereas previously, I'd just waggle my feet until they went in, bending the heal support as I went. To anyone reading, I would rather spend £400 on a pair of good quality shoes than spend £400 on 8 pairs of High Street shoes. It is well worth the wait if you need to save. I also actually feel better when I'm in the good ones, sounds a bit strange, I know, but it is true. By the way, I'm no snob or label junky, I'm a Local Government Officer who works in Housing. Now that I know what I am looking for, I fully intend to scour all the charity shops in Perth as the chances are the staff won't know a really good pair. I've never put this theory to the test yet, but I will soon. Cheers and good hunting!
Kyle Mackenzie yes don’t by Church’s shoes they were bought out by Prada some years back and now just sell overpriced fashion shoes! Buy Crockett and Jones or Edward Green if you possibly can for a quality leather and well constructed shoe!
I had military shoes called corofram or something like that. I shined their plastic finish with windex. They were awful shoes. I also remember using cotton balls for a mirror shine. Thanks for your posts!
Now I know why my Nunn Bush's went to hell the first time I wore them. This was a brand new pair of shoes and one cracked so bad at the toe it is beyond repair. Lesson learned thanks to your video. Now I know what to look for when buying dress shoes.
Great video as always. I only buy AE, but I went with my wife to macys. A lot of cemented poor leather shoes are offered. But I was amazed at how expensive “ cheap” shoes are. Eye opening.
Church's Shoes make Binder finish as an option. I remember seeing Bookbinder Church's Shoes in Chicago back in the day. I bought Church's Shoes when they were on Wabash. Bookbinder were more expensive I don't think I bought any of those. They were more expensive.
I was curious, when you use the acetone, do you need to wash the shoe with leather soap after? I purchased some acetone, gloves, and a mask and will be doing this soon to some used AE Weybridge and Lexingtons that have some cracking on the vape. Thank you for your videos, I had never thought or upcycling preowned shoes and saving a lot of money at the same time.
When ever I get new shows I automatically give them a shine as soon as get home. Some how the wax relaxes the leather and when I put them on for the first time it seems like broke them in years ago.....
I really like your videos. I appreciate knowing the difference between leathers. I think wingtips unfortunately not worn by enough of us women. If you could do a ladies shoe sometime oh, that would be really appreciated
I bought a pair from Charles Tyrwitt ($29.99 shirts) in 2008. It said leather/Goodyear welt/Made In England. All these years I have cherished them, Saphir polished them, now I learn that they are not real, oh what a bum deal!
What brand of edge dressing is that mine with he cotton dabber is messy day hard to work with. You answered my question about why shoe polish streaks on some of my shoes 😂😂. If you live in a sloppy area or winter climate an easy to maintain throwaway shoe is not the end of the world. Scratches are considered patina on my work boots 😂😂😂😂. I already use separate brushes for my brown, black, red shoes etc for polishing. I learned this after getting red streaks on tan shoes 😂😂😂. Have a great day.
I just went to a thrift store and bought the Lexingtons that Preston is saying not to buy. They're practically new. I think that if you wear these corrected leather shoes here and there and you keep in shoe trees, they should be fine. The problem with this type of leather that you see in Florsheims and other brands is that people wear them every day and never use shoe trees.
Thank you for this. Youf videos have helped me increase my education about shoes and leather. Which kind of leather does Florsheim usually use? That's what I usually get because of budget and availability.
Oh man. I have practically the same pair of Florshiems, same color and wingtip, I bought for 5 bucks and thought I got an awesome pair of possibly vintage shoes - until I watched this. I should have known when applying Saphir Medaille Hermès red and nothing took to the shoes and instead just brushed off onto my pant legs. Oh well, still pretty good looking shoes for 5 bucks. I’m glad you did this video before I spent more $ on new soles.
What is the difference between “book binder” calf and box calf which seems somewhat corrected? Crockett & Jones sells expensive penny loafers in box calf which does have a luster similar to shell cordovan. I thrifted a pair of Boston model penny loafers in this type of leather and restored them by first stripping them with alcohol and then Saphir Reno Mat. I then re-dyed them using Feibings pro-dye in Burgundy. They took the dye very well and took on a more ox blood or blood red hue that I liked.
Reminds me when I had to take ROTC training in college (it was required at that time) and we had to spit shine our plain black shoes. Sort of wish now that we had the plastic ones.
I had a pair of these bookbinder crappy shoes in burgundy made by Nunn & Bush (bought 20 years ago), and just as Preston says, they cracked after a 5-7 years despite the use of quality shoe trees. But not before I resoled them twice. But that's when you get when you pay $ 70 for a pair. Now I know why. Great video.
@@RogerYng That's true. funny thing is these were a "$125" pair that were "marked down" to $ 75. The other thing is that $ 75 20 years ago is probably $ 150 today.
I just discovered I have two pairs of Loak polished leather shoes. . The black ones are Shoemaker range and appear to take a polish. The brown ones are 200 3625 last. Looks like I’ll have to sell them now and search for full grain ones.
Very interesting video. I purchased a pair of black Dexters back in the 90's which I'm sure were book binder based on your description in this video. One other characteristic I found in addition to the unusual cracking was that the acrylic plasticy finish started to flake off. Everything makes sense now. I couldn't understand why quality shoe leather would age and wear this way. Now I know so thanks!
I just bought what I thought was a pair of shell cordovan burgundy wingtips but was possibly this exact model of bookbinder shoes. Better luck next time
I definitely fell for the "patented" look of corrected grain leather on a few purchases. I knew they looked a bit *off* but couldn't put my finger on it initially.
@@TheElegantOxford even worse is that after enough abuse, the corrected grain will start to flake / crack and the outer layer of coating comes away from the sanded leather underneath. It's such a false economy and a waste of leather IMHO. Full Grain all the way.
@@1061shrink1061 I don't know that I'd go so far as to call it a waste. Corrected leather is usually made from parts of the hide that wouldn't normally be usable (blemishes, etc). By sanding down past the pores they turn what would be scrap leather into decent-yet-affordable shoes. As another commenter mentioned, some people do not have the means to buy full grain high quality shoes, and bookbound leather is categorically better than vinyl or other plastics that ultra-cheap shoes are made from.
@@F3Ibane It's wasted on a shoe though, which is an object that will see lots of abuse, flexibing and temperature changes. Use corrected grain for handbags and laptop bags etc. it'll last longer!
I worked my way through school selling Florsheim along with Porta Ped (long forgotten but a very good value). Anyway, my late grandfather used to say " that nobody is totally worthless, they can always serve as a bad example". Notice your book binder leather piece of dreck is from a "Florsheim", made in India these days. While Allen--Edmond is on it's own march to "brand whoring", you can still find some value. Having said this, I wonder why A&E is "on sale" so often? Is A&E simply overpriced in order to have "sales"; I own a A&E "5" SERIES from Italy, the base of these shoes are elegant, however while getting out of my car one day the top of the heel came off to expose a heel made of paper! These were $600. shoes; luckily my sister is a custom tailor who sold A&E so I got them at cost. Thankfully a Mexican gentleman who is a true craftsman rebuilt the heels on both the left and right. He was shocked at seeing this. Anyway, be careful if you love quality footwear. I buy Alden now and cannot in good conscience tell anyone to buy A&E. They will end up in the Dominican Republic where a lot of their casual shoes are made.
I think A&E sales comes from.that men just don't dress up like they did before and they are surviving off of people who do value quality over saving a buck...so at some point shoes have to move and many guys like me go then to Nordstrom Rack or even better Last Chance by Nordstrom you get A&E for 150 or less brand new or some are returned. There are also Cole Hans and other pricier shoes at Last Chance -unfortunately at this store its final sale - no return BUT man what a deal. I bought new pair of A&E this weekend for 120.00 and bought a Hugo Boss suit that cost close to 800 at Nordstrom once and here brand new for 200 and I got it tailored to fit at their store.
Preston, I have a pair of ECCO leather boots that I wear each winter. They have held up extremely well but after watching several of your videos, I think that I should be doing something to protect the leather. The leather on the toes is not worn but is growing lighter than the rest of the boot. Can you advise?
Have you ever used lighter fluid in place of water for a mirror shine? When I was in the MPs we always used the lighter fluid, we could "spit shine" a pair of jump boots in about 15 minutes. Always messed up the shine every duty shift. Old panty hose was our dust cloth to wipe off the boots in the middle of the day.
My cheap probably a bookbinder leather looks so similar to the one in the video, mine is black. And just like that the crease is absolutely horrible now.. I'll go for a better type next time. An oxford captoe with a good leather is my next goal. A decent leather would do for me
I bought the exact same pair at a second hand store for $20. I tought I made a great deal but now... I was so happy that I got my first real shoe, with a good leather and blake stich etc... yet now I have a 20 dollar shoe which I will throw away in two years...
I feel confident that my shoes are full grain. I am on my second pair, and my first I did nothing with. No shoe trees, no conditioner, and walked in snow, water, salt, and they did not crease that bad. They were shiny when new, but I definitely had to shine them. Eventually they cracked a tiny bit across the vamp, and I felt that was the end of those shoes the second pair has done rather well with all the care I have taken. When I use conditioner or even mink oil, it is able to be worked into the leather, so there is no greasy residue and I notice a difference in the leather.
A few years ago I bought some bookbinder shoes not actually realising what the deal was. When I noticed they weren't taking pigment I stripped off the acrylic or whatever it was (that took a couple of days) the shoes themselves were actually made from pieces of different coloured leather. Avoid like the plague.
Now I understand why I can’t restore the Loake shoes I bought on Ebay for 40£ ... I have spent hours trying to get a mirror shine and reduce the creasing but it did not work. They are indeed naturally shiny so I think the leather is not a very good one ! Thanks Preston !
Once a mirror shine is achieved, how does one moisturize the toecap, later on? Do you have to strip the wax, apply Renovateur and shoe cream, then rewax?
Thank you for all the videos you have made. I am very impressed. Well back in the '70's though '90's I purchased pretty much only Florsheim Imperial shoes like the heavy 5 nail with cleats on the heal. These were very good shoes but later I tried the Royal Imperials because they fit better and were so much more comfortable at least to me. Now today I learned about Book leather and that has answered a question I had that until your video, no shoe salesman at Florsheim could give me an answer about my Royal Imperial penny loafers and why I could not seem to get any conditioner into the leather. My other Royal Imperials are made from kid glove leather that will take the conditioner without any problem. Both types had lambskin linings which made them very soft and easy on the foot. Now as you know these weren't the highest price shoes out there but I both types still ran about $150-$165 a pair which was a lot for me 30-50 years ago. They have been taken care of with cedar trees so both types show very few creases. I just wish I had known that the manufacturer changed the loafers to book leather and the downsides of it. My question to you is why did they change that? Thank you for your answer Sir. Best Wishes! Michael in Indiana
Hey, Michael. Many companies switched to book binder in the 90’s. I don’t why they would. It’s a complete mystery to me as well. I’m glad to hear you still have your original florshiems. A classic shoe!
You have inspired me into taking care of my shoes and I can say it does not only change on my shoes, I cleaned my apartment, ironed my coat to match my shoes. I guess your video taught me to appreciate things I use every day. Thank you.
I do not use a shoe tree becase I cannot get a small enough shoe tree on market. Since I am size 34.
Congratulations,it shows attention to detail. People will notice that you are prepared to put in the effort and will see that applied to other areas of your life.
Anyone else started noticing people's nice shoes now?
#ShineYourShoes
Actually, I always did. Shameful people where I work. Slobs.
@@steventrosiek2623 Or perhaps they're just part of the 'throw away' society? Don't know how to care for their posessions and throw them away when they start to appear past their best. Either way, it's a sad state of affairs.
Every man should own one good pair of shoes
Honestly I wear cowboy boots pretty exclusively, and I have 3 really nice pairs that I always keep looking in top form and these videos gave me tips to learn things I was struggling to figure out. Nothing like a black mirror shine on a box toe Sendra.
Dude please do more tips on how to spot premium leather 😍
Yes I agree
It's so weird. I've watch this dude mirror shine so many times but i don't get bored. It's truly an art.
Great and timely video! I just returned a pair of this book binder leather. I was told it was calf skin but sanded down. When i heard sanded down i knew it wasn’t right because I wanted superior calf skin. The guy was an A-Hole he responded quality is subjective. The smell of the shoes was very synthetic and like you said acrylic. Thank you for this.
Wow! Good thing you skipped on them.
Este tipo de piel tiene algo que ver con el charol? Estoy algo confuso 😅
Mr. Soto was very polite and didn’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings when comparing and describing the plastic shoe (my bad...the...the...other...well...the other type of shoe). In other words, you get what you paid for. Again, nothing wrong with that other shoe, but your feet will know the difference because of the confort and definitely you will get a stronger shine with real leather (I wonder if pig leather will work....jummm? 😉) Anyway, another great video by Soto’s Shoe Rejuvenation Services (yes...yes Mr. Soto....you can use that for your new shop👌). Can I have a witness and a big ooorahhhh! 👍🏻😊
You’re the best
You get what you pay for, except you can buy very expensive crap that fall apart in a year or two and buy almost new very good shoes for few dollars.
That was so informative. I’m beginning to discern the differences in leathers and the value of a knowledgeable shopper.
Awesome
@@TheElegantOxford any suggestions of any quality shoe makers for the not so knowing?
I imagine he's standing there in a pair of crocs with socks on
Gotta be comfortable for all that editing
I doubt it. Crocs with socks are illegal.
Aldreth No , he is wearing flip flops.
They'll have a mirror finish though.
😃😆🤣
When I was a young man, all that I could afford was the inexpensive book binder shoes. Mine were black and I would touch up the scuffs with a permanent black tip marker then spray them with clear polyurethane ( Rustolem). They looked just like new when I was done. Do not do this on expensive leather shoes.
Great budget solution.
In the 90s I worked in a paint store and would have to wear a tie and nice shoes. You couldn't avoid paint dripping or splattering on your shoes, so we would just Krylon Paint them black every couple of weeks.
@@dgmangold 👍👍
I've learned so much about caring for my shoes from this channel. Sadly it's hard to find women's shoes made with the same quality, unless they are "vintage" or stiletto platform heels/pumps. I like a slight heel on dress shoes, but heels are not good for when you're on your feet all day. Many women's shoes these days are made from a lot of things, but it's hard to find actual leather ones that have a nice vintage appearance. Ntm many women's shoes run small/narrow in general and are mass produced.
Eventually I'd like to start phasing more quality leather shoes into my wardrobe, but they are hard to find in my size. I do shine my work shoes when I get the chance, and it's really helped keep them looking nice even after a year and a half of everyday wear.
VictoryRoseArt absolutely i agree. I have a pair of Justin style L506 model. The leather is pretty good and good quality. I wear them almost everyday in a country where it rains almost everyday. I love them.
Check some of the Spanish Brands like Carmina.
Agreed!
Great video. I loved how direct you were when introducing the subject, I didn't feel like I was being "cheated" into waiting for the meat and potatoes of the message.
As an airline captain I realize the importance of shoes for both uniform appearance and wear comfort. Going through metal detectors on a daily basis I’ve decided to go for a beautiful pair of metal-free Loake black brogues. After one day of wearing them I noticed the terrible creasing, and I didn’t understand how it can happen after only one day of use. It’s just now, after watching this video, that I’ve realized that I had bought polished leather/bookbinder shoes. I’ve bought Saphir products so that I can maintain them properly, but that’s all in vain since this is covered in plastic/acrylic.
you‘re right about black navy. In printing, to achieve deep blacks in CMYK we print 100% and roundabout 40% cyan… 💪
I have. I am having a problem with my Frye women's oxfords and it was good to see him use a Bick product I used (a previous video) because I thought I had ruined my shoes. I just used wayyyy too much, 😆.
Preston, this may be the best video you have made! For those of us who are shining freaks like you, I think this was super educational! You have a gift for this skill, and I appreciate your efforts in sharing those secrets and tips with us who strive to be better. Your results are amazing. Keep them coming!!
Awesome thanks! I’ll make more
Superb explanation of the differences between leathers, Preston. Your videography, work ethic and running commentary are truly wonderful. Stay safe!
Well I've had 2 pairs of Church bookbinder for over 25 years and never had an issue and they still look very good today, I look after them like I look after my more expensive shoes.
That's because Church's use Calf Leather in their Polished Binder (not Bookbinder) unlike cheap crap like Loake which use Corrected Grain which will crease and crack.
To those who are interested in, I use an excellent product on my bookbinder leather shoes, it's "Vernis Rife" by Saphir, it is quite famous here in France. It's a liquid global care. It does cleans, nourishes, protects and shine. It does eliminate significantly the wrinkles or scratches. It is available in black or neutral.
I think I remember a brand a long time ago advertising that their leather shoes didn't need polishing. It probably wasn't so much that they didn't need it as that it wouldn't have helped anyway. Thanks for clearing this up.
Thank you. Got my answer after 20 years of confusion.
Cheers
Glad it helped!
I’m just getting into high end shoes, and this video saved me making a costly mistake from a seller passing bookbinder leather off as shell cordovan.
The burgundy shoes look like Florsheim Lexingtons. I used to wear them in college because they were the first pair of shoes I got for college. I bought them because of Florsheim's reputation, but they didn't last very long. I've since moved to Thursday Boot Co. for shoes and boots and couldn't be happier with them so far. I've had the shoes for nearly two years, and had them resoled last summer. They've served me well and will continue to do so for a long time, I hope. The boots I've had for just under a year, and they've just been resoled after nine months of hard wear, but they're also workhorse footwear that have so far been of stellar service to me.
Great tips! Great video! I used to use a cotton ball for a mirror shine. Mush softer than a cotton rag. As for the acetone issue, women use full strength acetone on our nails all the time. Yes, it dries the out but a good oil helps combat that. Just wash your hands afterwards.
I am an old veteran and I still enjoy taking care of my shoes and boots. I appreciate and understand how well shined foorwear can make you feel. I enjoy watching. Thank you.
I come from a armed service background. Dad, Brother are all officers in the armed forces. So have grown up seeing my dad's shoes and belt polished and shined. A trick that was taught to me and may be you can try is to just apply a light polish and leave it out in the sun for 5 to 10 minutes (just to warm up the shoe) then brush and shine with a clean soft cloth, repeat with wax. ........ Marcus
Awesome!
I recently bought a pair of book binder leather shoes made by Trickers Northampton. I like them. They are low maintenance because they dont absorb pigment from polish like full grain calf leather.
I have shoes like that. I've had them for so many years. It's hard to let go of them because of the sentimental value but I have to get over that. I remember buying them but I didn't know much about shoes then like I do now. Thank you for exposing these frauds.
A few years ago I bought a pair of Johnston & Murphy’s in an ox blood color and didn’t know why they haven’t taken to polishing until this video. It broke my heart because I love the shoes and the color and at $200 o expected more but where the color has scuffed it leaves a super bright red that sticks out so bad I’m embarrassed to wear them.
It’s ok! Wear them until they die
I have a pair as well and this hurt too....shoot i even was considering resoling them not scratched up like yours but now that i know im dissapointed.
however when you search them they are said to be shell cordivan
I think there's a (rare) third option: a corrected grain leather shoes made from high quality leather. I have a pair of Florsheim Bookbinder LWBs made in 1970 that are absolutely amazing. I believe they took a top grain leather and "corrected" it just enough to give it a patina look and a practical weather proof coating. What they created is a work of art that looks like today's museum calf. The shoes are six months older than I am and look brand new. Creasing doesn't hurt them. I wear them in bad weather and know with a wipe of a cloth, they'll be ready to go again.
Yes there are better quality binder leather shoes but I believe the LWB you are referring to was not binder.
Love the video. Very insightful, however, you fail to give information on HOW to recognize full calf leather?? Are there markings on the sole? Inside the shoe? . Are we forced to know exactly what full calf leather looks like from a simple eye test? How do can you make such a determination when shopping online and only given a photo of the shoe??? Need more info, please. Thanks.
Richard...it IS very hard to tell from photographs...I have bought leather hide from pictures online, and had to return stuff as it is not what I thought it was.
Maybe ask the retailer?.. good leather seems to have tiny patterns to it where the animal's hair came out of the hide.
The spa music in the background and the tone of his voice is so calming, it's almost cult like...🤣 respect bro, you've got a following in a good way!
Hahaha! As a teenager back in the 90's I shined shoes at a country club. The bookbinder leather was indeed very popular then. I must have shined ten thousand pairs of shoes that looked exactly like the "cordovan" wing tips featured in this video.
Awesome!
So so agree....... I have noticed fine bridle leather /saddlery has changed massively too..Maybe as most people don't want to buy 'quality'?..Such nasty stuff about that will not accept leather conditioners...it just 'sits' on the surface.... proper bridle leather does indeed have a very different look...it absorbs conditioners beautifully and well cared for leather gets better as it is used...
I just picked up a pair of Allen Edmonds black with monk strap for $21 at the thrift store (no way I'm paying $500 for shoes).
And gonna give them an overhaul. Bought some Saphir cream and polish from your website. Got nothing to lose on this deal 🙂
Love your vids!
You can also use Venetian Shoe Cream on corrected-grain leather with reasonable success to add some luster and shine.
Got to love the Lexington shoe. Patient leather. I never sold a pair of those when I worked for Florsheim.
"patient leather", because it's unwell or because it's taking a long time?
Better quality ‘bookbinder’ from the likes of Tricker’s and Church’s creases less, but it isn’t the best for those who like to nourish and polish their shoes. I once ’thrifted’ a pair of Burwood brogues by Church’s and they definitely looked good after I applied cream and polish. I still have the before and after pictures.
Yes there are better quality binders. That’s true!
I have a pair of trickers bookbinder shoes for over 10 years a they are in great shape . Instead of using traditional shoe care products I use 303 aerospace protectant and armor all to shine them and I go over the shoe every couple months . Instead of using shoe polishes and creams use plastic conditioners I get the 303 from Amazon the white bottle, and armor all from anywhere like autozone or Walmart .
When I was in the Army, we use to do spit-shine on our boots. However, we used water, alcohol, and buffed the shoe with the top of a women's nylon stocking.
This video saved me!
I just ordered a pair of Allen Edmonds Greene Streep Mahogany, seems like they are corrected grain Leather. Now I'm definitely returning them.
Very useful video, thanks. I've often seen the gloss finish and felt there was something I didn't like about it. Now I know why! Quite a few shoes have it. Seen it on some Joseph Cheaney, a British shoe
I was actually emailing you about this exact same issue! You must have a lot of people contacting you about their book binder shoes.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It's only a matter of time 'til my old shoes hit the waste bin, but at least now I know not to waste expensive product on something that won't take!
I wish I could get back to everyone personally but I’m glad the video helped.
After using Renomat it is best to spray with water or saddle soap to take off the renovator. You can also use the polish lid to hold the water and dip the cloth into it inbetween polish!
Excellent. Thank u so much. I am learning so much from u concerning different types of Leather, Authenticity and Shoe Makers. I luv ur work and always look forward to ur next Vid. Thank u so much for sharing!
I've only recently began to appreciate good, quality shoes. To date I've a pair of tan Grenson Nobles, Eremengildo Zegna Brown loafers and a pair of Louboutin Goodyear Welt , very dense linen. I've also a pair of Grenson Moccasins, but these aren't great quality and of course, the obligatory Versace black trainers!
It's only since being in a position to start to shop for shoes at the higher end that I have noticed the difference between good quality leather hand made shoes and the ones that I was previously happy to buy on the High Street. The main difference is not so much in the appearance, but in the way that I have been looking after them. The Grensons, Louboutins and the Zegna are kept in their bags when not being worn and I also undo the laces when taking them off whereas previously, I'd just waggle my feet until they went in, bending the heal support as I went. To anyone reading, I would rather spend £400 on a pair of good quality shoes than spend £400 on 8 pairs of High Street shoes. It is well worth the wait if you need to save. I also actually feel better when I'm in the good ones, sounds a bit strange, I know, but it is true. By the way, I'm no snob or label junky, I'm a Local Government Officer who works in Housing. Now that I know what I am looking for, I fully intend to scour all the charity shops in Perth as the chances are the staff won't know a really good pair. I've never put this theory to the test yet, but I will soon. Cheers and good hunting!
Are the book binder shoes some Florsheims? They look identical to mine.
Great tutorial on leather Preston. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure
Was looking at a pair of Church's online and they were book Binder. Lucky I watched this video first!!
Kyle Mackenzie yes don’t by Church’s shoes they were bought out by Prada some years back and now just sell overpriced fashion shoes! Buy Crockett and Jones or Edward Green if you possibly can for a quality leather and well constructed shoe!
Those cheap shoe's are what I call one and done. Because you can only wear them a few time's and their done. Great video and content
I had military shoes called corofram or something like that. I shined their plastic finish with windex. They were awful shoes. I also remember using cotton balls for a mirror shine. Thanks for your posts!
I have the same exact pair of shoes the black ones. I'm about to go shine them bad boys up now!!!
Now I know why my Nunn Bush's went to hell the first time I wore them. This was a brand new pair of shoes and one cracked so bad at the toe it is beyond repair. Lesson learned thanks to your video. Now I know what to look for when buying dress shoes.
Great video as always. I only buy AE, but I went with my wife to macys. A lot of cemented poor leather shoes are offered. But I was amazed at how expensive “ cheap” shoes are. Eye opening.
Church's Shoes make Binder finish as an option. I remember seeing Bookbinder Church's Shoes in Chicago back in the day. I bought Church's Shoes when they were on Wabash. Bookbinder were more expensive I don't think I bought any of those. They were more expensive.
I was curious, when you use the acetone, do you need to wash the shoe with leather soap after? I purchased some acetone, gloves, and a mask and will be doing this soon to some used AE Weybridge and Lexingtons that have some cracking on the vape. Thank you for your videos, I had never thought or upcycling preowned shoes and saving a lot of money at the same time.
When ever I get new shows I automatically give them a shine as soon as get home. Some how the wax relaxes the leather and when I put them on for the first time it seems like broke them in years ago.....
I really like your videos. I appreciate knowing the difference between leathers. I think wingtips unfortunately not worn by enough of us women. If you could do a ladies shoe sometime oh, that would be really appreciated
Learned something new about "book binder" leather shoes AND realized I have a pair . . .oh well . . .live and learn!
It’s ok! I’ve had a couple myself
I bought a pair from Charles Tyrwitt ($29.99 shirts) in 2008. It said leather/Goodyear welt/Made In England. All these years I have cherished them, Saphir polished them, now I learn that they are not real, oh what a bum deal!
What brand of edge dressing is that mine with he cotton dabber is messy day hard to work with. You answered my question about why shoe polish streaks on some of my shoes 😂😂. If you live in a sloppy area or winter climate an easy to maintain throwaway shoe is not the end of the world. Scratches are considered patina on my work boots 😂😂😂😂. I already use separate brushes for my brown, black, red shoes etc for polishing. I learned this after getting red streaks on tan shoes 😂😂😂. Have a great day.
I remember buying my first pair of Churches. I was 20. I was really proud. Bought a pair recently... It's bloody plastic. 450.. plastic..
I just went to a thrift store and bought the Lexingtons that Preston is saying not to buy. They're practically new. I think that if you wear these corrected leather shoes here and there and you keep in shoe trees, they should be fine. The problem with this type of leather that you see in Florsheims and other brands is that people wear them every day and never use shoe trees.
Thank you for this. Youf videos have helped me increase my education about shoes and leather. Which kind of leather does Florsheim usually use? That's what I usually get because of budget and availability.
Oh man. I have practically the same pair of Florshiems, same color and wingtip, I bought for 5 bucks and thought I got an awesome pair of possibly vintage shoes - until I watched this. I should have known when applying Saphir Medaille Hermès red and nothing took to the shoes and instead just brushed off onto my pant legs. Oh well, still pretty good looking shoes for 5 bucks. I’m glad you did this video before I spent more $ on new soles.
My dad has the same pair. It’s was a popular model.
''Spit and polish'' :) 'Parade gloss'' is a polish sold in UK..it smells a little turpentine like. Gorgeous shine on those shoes BTW.
You really are the Bob Ross of shoes 👍
Thanks!
You're.
@@AyAy008 even if youR right, just s... the f.... up :)
We're just gonna take a dab a cream and make happy little creases
What is the difference between “book binder” calf and box calf which seems somewhat corrected? Crockett & Jones sells expensive penny loafers in box calf which does have a luster similar to shell cordovan. I thrifted a pair of Boston model penny loafers in this type of leather and restored them by first stripping them with alcohol and then Saphir Reno Mat. I then re-dyed them using Feibings pro-dye in Burgundy. They took the dye very well and took on a more ox blood or blood red hue that I liked.
Reminds me when I had to take ROTC training in college (it was required at that time) and we had to spit shine our plain black shoes. Sort of wish now that we had the plastic ones.
True!
The Bob Ross of shoe care!
Bravo! VERY instructive and informative. Thank You.
Those black shoes came from a thrift store? Wow! You made them better than new! Nice!
No these are a client order but they were purchased from eBay.
I had a pair of these bookbinder crappy shoes in burgundy made by Nunn & Bush (bought 20 years ago), and just as Preston says, they cracked after a 5-7 years despite the use of quality shoe trees. But not before I resoled them twice. But that's when you get when you pay $ 70 for a pair. Now I know why. Great video.
But you got your money’s worth and more out of them.
@@RogerYng That's true. funny thing is these were a "$125" pair that were "marked down" to $ 75. The other thing is that $ 75 20 years ago is probably $ 150 today.
I have noticed myself on eBay, cheap shoes advertised as cordovan when they are actually cheap, second hand industrially made shoes
This very much reminds me of basic training, USAF at Lackland AFB.
Thank you for your service
You sir have inspired me to pick up on my shoe game.
I would love to see what you could do to a more casual AE shoe like the Torino or the Voyager.
Awesome! I’ll look into it
You sound like Emilio Estevez. I kept imaging Emilio Estevez shining shoes 😊
Haha we’re both the same height 😂
I just discovered I have two pairs of Loak polished leather shoes. . The black ones are Shoemaker range and appear to take a polish. The brown ones are 200 3625 last. Looks like I’ll have to sell them now and search for full grain ones.
Very interesting video. I purchased a pair of black Dexters back in the 90's which I'm sure were book binder based on your description in this video. One other characteristic I found in addition to the unusual cracking was that the acrylic plasticy finish started to flake off. Everything makes sense now. I couldn't understand why quality shoe leather would age and wear this way. Now I know so thanks!
Thanks for watching, Robert
I have worn Dexter for years without issues. Enjoyed them very much.
I just bought what I thought was a pair of shell cordovan burgundy wingtips but was possibly this exact model of bookbinder shoes. Better luck next time
I use a piece of old jeans to shine the part between the tip and the laces, its very effective.
Thanks for the tip!
I definitely fell for the "patented" look of corrected grain leather on a few purchases. I knew they looked a bit *off* but couldn't put my finger on it initially.
Yes it’s a lot like patent leather
@@TheElegantOxford even worse is that after enough abuse, the corrected grain will start to flake / crack and the outer layer of coating comes away from the sanded leather underneath. It's such a false economy and a waste of leather IMHO. Full Grain all the way.
@@1061shrink1061 I don't know that I'd go so far as to call it a waste. Corrected leather is usually made from parts of the hide that wouldn't normally be usable (blemishes, etc). By sanding down past the pores they turn what would be scrap leather into decent-yet-affordable shoes. As another commenter mentioned, some people do not have the means to buy full grain high quality shoes, and bookbound leather is categorically better than vinyl or other plastics that ultra-cheap shoes are made from.
@@F3Ibane It's wasted on a shoe though, which is an object that will see lots of abuse, flexibing and temperature changes. Use corrected grain for handbags and laptop bags etc. it'll last longer!
Truly a pleasure to watch👌🏼Thank you sir 🙏🏼
Full grain is the best !
I agree ☝🏻
I love this channel! Recommending to my brother-in-law who probably has over 30 pairs of oxfords 😊!
I worked my way through school selling Florsheim along with Porta Ped (long forgotten but a very good value). Anyway, my late grandfather used to say " that nobody is totally worthless, they can always serve as a bad example". Notice your book binder leather piece of dreck is from a "Florsheim", made in India these days. While Allen--Edmond is on it's own march to "brand whoring", you can still find some value. Having said this, I wonder why A&E is "on sale" so often? Is A&E simply overpriced in order to have "sales"; I own a A&E "5" SERIES from Italy, the base of these shoes are elegant, however while getting out of my car one day the top of the heel came off to expose a heel made of paper! These were $600. shoes; luckily my sister is a custom tailor who sold A&E so I got them at cost. Thankfully a Mexican gentleman who is a true craftsman rebuilt the heels on both the left and right. He was shocked at seeing this. Anyway, be careful if you love quality footwear. I buy Alden now and cannot in good conscience tell anyone to buy A&E. They will end up in the Dominican Republic where a lot of their casual shoes are made.
I think A&E sales comes from.that men just don't dress up like they did before and they are surviving off of people who do value quality over saving a buck...so at some point shoes have to move and many guys like me go then to Nordstrom Rack or even better Last Chance by Nordstrom you get A&E for 150 or less brand new or some are returned. There are also Cole Hans and other pricier shoes at Last Chance -unfortunately at this store its final sale - no return BUT man what a deal. I bought new pair of A&E this weekend for 120.00 and bought a Hugo Boss suit that cost close to 800 at Nordstrom once and here brand new for 200 and I got it tailored to fit at their store.
Preston, I have a pair of ECCO leather boots that I wear each winter. They have held up extremely well but after watching several of your videos, I think that I should be doing something to protect the leather. The leather on the toes is not worn but is growing lighter than the rest of the boot. Can you advise?
Check out this article gearpatrol.com/2018/11/28/how-to-care-for-leather-boots-in-winter/
Have you ever used lighter fluid in place of water for a mirror shine? When I was in the MPs we always used the lighter fluid, we could "spit shine" a pair of jump boots in about 15 minutes. Always messed up the shine every duty shift. Old panty hose was our dust cloth to wipe off the boots in the middle of the day.
My cheap probably a bookbinder leather looks so similar to the one in the video, mine is black. And just like that the crease is absolutely horrible now.. I'll go for a better type next time. An oxford captoe with a good leather is my next goal. A decent leather would do for me
If you like quality shoes what a brilliant tutorial
I bought the exact same pair at a second hand store for $20. I tought I made a great deal but now...
I was so happy that I got my first real shoe, with a good leather and blake stich etc... yet now I have a 20 dollar shoe which I will throw away in two years...
Thank you so much for this useful information. This question was always in my mind as to which type of leather shoe should I buy?
I feel confident that my shoes are full grain. I am on my second pair, and my first I did nothing with. No shoe trees, no conditioner, and walked in snow, water, salt, and they did not crease that bad. They were shiny when new, but I definitely had to shine them. Eventually they cracked a tiny bit across the vamp, and I felt that was the end of those shoes the second pair has done rather well with all the care I have taken. When I use conditioner or even mink oil, it is able to be worked into the leather, so there is no greasy residue and I notice a difference in the leather.
So why did you neglect your first pair?
A few years ago I bought some bookbinder shoes not actually realising what the deal was.
When I noticed they weren't taking pigment I stripped off the acrylic or whatever it was (that took a couple of days) the shoes themselves were actually made from pieces of different coloured leather.
Avoid like the plague.
Does anyone listening to the relaxing music in the background more on his videos?
Now I understand why I can’t restore the Loake shoes I bought on Ebay for 40£ ... I have spent hours trying to get a mirror shine and reduce the creasing but it did not work. They are indeed naturally shiny so I think the leather is not a very good one ! Thanks Preston !
I see AE shoes being brought back from the brink more than any other brand. Seems like they are the new Florscheim, quality + affordable.
Thanks for this info! I am looking for a nice pair of shoes at thrift shops for my husband and now I know what to avoid!
Once a mirror shine is achieved, how does one moisturize the toecap, later on? Do you have to strip the wax, apply Renovateur and shoe cream, then rewax?
Great comparison Preston, very easy to know. Job well done as usual. Ciao from Italy 🔝👍👏
Thanks!
bookbinder leather is a misnomer that generally just applies to shoes. very good to know what to look for though!
Thank you for all the videos you have made. I am very impressed. Well back in the '70's though '90's I purchased pretty much only Florsheim Imperial shoes like the heavy 5 nail with cleats on the heal. These were very good shoes but later I tried the Royal Imperials because they fit better and were so much more comfortable at least to me. Now today I learned about Book leather and that has answered a question I had that until your video, no shoe salesman at Florsheim could give me an answer about my Royal Imperial penny loafers and why I could not seem to get any conditioner into the leather. My other Royal Imperials are made from kid glove leather that will take the conditioner without any problem. Both types had lambskin linings which made them very soft and easy on the foot. Now as you know these weren't the highest price shoes out there but I both types still ran about $150-$165 a pair which was a lot for me 30-50 years ago. They have been taken care of with cedar trees so both types show very few creases. I just wish I had known that the manufacturer changed the loafers to book leather and the downsides of it. My question to you is why did they change that? Thank you for your answer Sir. Best Wishes! Michael in Indiana
Hey, Michael. Many companies switched to book binder in the 90’s. I don’t why they would. It’s a complete mystery to me as well. I’m glad to hear you still have your original florshiems. A classic shoe!