One Of The Biggest Problems With Post Locations - Deck Handrails
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- www.homebuildingandrepairs.com Click on this link if you looking for more information about your next home construction project. Here's another one of those problems you won't run into if you actually watch the video. It's very important to plan out any construction project and this would include figuring out exactly where to locate any exterior deck handrail support posts.
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Great video and advice. Thank you.
I'm glad you liked it thanks for watching.
I have gotten alot of great info and ideas from your channel. I've looked up all of my local code requirements. So everything is within code,, so I just want to say thanks. I'm very appreciative of you.
Great to hear!
On the landing area, I'm thinking the orientation of the lumber would be safer if it was running perpendicular to the upper string of stairs? I'm imaging slipping & getting hurt on that small landing when wet. Here in Western Washington we got lots of wet going on. I've never built a deck in my life, though I've slipped on way too many & it don't feel good. What's your analogy here? Thank you for sharing this video.
Thanks for the video. I’m building a staircase similar to what you’re showing. For the platform part, do you build the box on top of the posts, or do you bolt the box to the posts (similar to bolting a handrail post to the stringer)?
A platform or landing can sit on top of structural supporting posts and this is often what's preferred by engineers, but I've seen plenty of people bolt structural framing components to posts also to build a platform.
Hand rails are a different height than guard rails. pickets and newel post need to be spaced as per code.
What’s the best way to fig rise/run from top of deck to an existing landing below? There’s no existing stringers because stairs are bolted onto 2 2X12’ on both sides. I would like to make stairs wider by bringing one side right up to the side of the house. If you can imagine this. Don’t know how well I described it.
Just come to Soddy Daisy Tennessee where the inspector knows all the trades, won’t issue a permit to a home owner, but will pass a contractor built deck no matter how dangerously it is built. I bought a new house here 3.5 years ago and my back deck is 9’ off the ground because I have a walkout basement. The railing has no posts at all, just 1.5” spindles air nailed with 16GA finish nails to the rim. The stairs have overcut stringers that span 14’ without support and were hung on a 2x6 that was hanging below the deck frame by way of 3 short 2x4’s tacked into the outer joist. In addition to no real support up top the concrete pad at the bottom was in the wrong spot and not quite as wide as the stairs so the heels and outer edges of the stringers were just hanging out in space. The whole stairway would dance and sway if you walked on it so I raised the whole thing up one full step so the stringers could have full bearing on the joist and I used Simpson stringer hangers instead of toe nails. Then I poured a new pad at the bottom so the stairs have full bearing and I even anchored the stairs to the concrete this time, but hey, what do I know ? I’m just a stupid home owner that happens to be a master electrician and spent my whole life building and remodeling houses and chemical plants, not one of the good ole boys the inspector will issue a permit to.
Thank you for sharing sir....is there more you'd like to add?
I think he about covered every thing and hopefully they clean up their act sooner than later.
I'm building just 3 steps to my back door, but the railing is stressing me out the most. Would it be easiest to have the treads not overlap the stringer on the sides so I don't have to notch the treads at all and bolt the post right to the stringer?
I would think that would work just fine and here's a link to a new video that might be helpful ruclips.net/video/BG7egW45LMg/видео.html
We had a "handy man" build a short stairway at our cabin. Hard to find someone willing to travel over an hour to do this. Anyway he completed the job putting posts in concrete. When he was putting the handrail on(its only on one side) he messed up the length of the lower post. Its too short.
We are going to finish the job and because I am not native to this kind of work we are going to go slowly.
What can we do to the lower post to bring more height? We aren't going to take out the concrete and start over so the only thing we could think of was attaching a 2x 4 to the post so we could have a way to attach the handrail properly. Is that our only option? Thanks
If the post cannot be removed then you might be better off attaching a 2 x 4 to the side and using it as a support brace to extend the length of the post. There are other ways to extend post, but this one might be the cheapest.
I was asked to do a quick repair on a stairway crossbar. The stair treads are 33 and the ends are all breaking off when stepped on. If replacing the treads is required 36 then i am assuming there is going to need an update versus a repair? Plus I see about 80% of the 3 level stairway is loose and or rotted. Its sad to see maintenance neglected and the owners want quick fix.
Check with local building department, because sometimes stair repairs don't require major modifications.
A deck with stairs on one side going along a brick wall brings up a question. I would think it is ok to just have a rail on the other side. Would it be OK to just have a hidden (below tread) post on the wall side at the same point a post goes on the rail side?
I'm not exactly clear on what you're asking, provide more details or email me picture or drawing.
@stairbuilding thanks for the reply, and I emailed you some details and a picture
Please can you show exactly this type of step in pratical..my problem is making an angle..
Chalk line, Circular Saw.
Here's a video I made that might be helpful. ruclips.net/video/BG7egW45LMg/видео.html
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My area also requires 3' wide. but I dnt understand why. less than 3' won't add any hazard to residential stairs. railing post is stronger inside of stringer but that required 1 more stringer for the tread. I understand most of the reasoning for the code and safty. but the 3' wide stairs all I can think of is this is more fat people friendly.
still didn't answer the question LOL! also notching out the steps / treads around the post only leads to those smaller pieces in the notched area failing over time due to moisture, change in seasons, etc. So either surface mount with a decent post base anchor that is sturdy and not plastic or.... put the post on the outside of the stringer and use a full step/tread board without notching, also at 4:12, look at the first platform after the first 6 steps going up, why not extend that platform to match the width of the 2nd set of stairs going up? If the stairs are that wide, you can accommodate the width of the platform being wider, maybe the design being used was just for example but people will look at this video, look at that design and do that, it's not esthetically pleasing and structurally speaking you have 15-20% of your step length unsupported by anything underneath it, just air, why do that? Just my 2 cents on this
Can you provide me with the question I didn't answer? I re-watched the video and everything seemed to make sense to me. Thanks for leaving constructive criticism and I'm always interested in another point of view, for example what exactly were you as a viewer expecting from this video?
@A Stoic's Door I am a deck builder in Texas. I Hate notched posts. they are always weak. I also hate lag bolts. I would either use carriage bolts or grk structural screws. Hope that helps.
More projects for ramps, that’s what we need to be building, both indoor and out. Plan at least, add details later, but make the plan.
Your suggestion has been added to our list.
@@stairbuilding Have often thought….materials -wise, it could be a good bit cheaper to build a ramp.
Instead of labor intensive balustrades, use rebar.
Similar safety, of course, do width so a kid doesn’t get stuck. Nothing is cheaper than rebar. Spray paint first, or leave it.
Need a landing every ten feet to be approved ramp in this county.
It’s a good idea, and looks better, easier on the eye, softens the look.
Plan for safety-no Runaway wheelchair or kids wagon. Or black ice, worst of all.
Encourage everyone to do it right in the first place.
We’ve all seen a "Trick" stair that’s a bit higher than others, unexpected, and causes injury.
Do it with ice in mind.
You do good work. Thanks for it, and thanks for troubling yourself to post so others can benefit from your knowledge.
Wait a minute. How would I ramp a 3 foot rise into my house with only 36 quick inches directly in front of it to get there?@@stairbuilding
You know - those "hand rails" are not allowed anymore. You gotta have graspable or gripable hand rails - round - and at least 1 1/4" diameter. I recommend BIP with flange plates.
Good point. Thanks for mentioning.
Here, county inspector allows the flat top, the lumber is contiguous piece.
But inner handrail has to be just below. That’s grippable for height, can be used to pull up if a fall, because it’s strong.
Vevor has quality stuff at good prices.
It’s exciting that people are paying attention to these things. Sadly lacking. It’s been ugly and hazardous, so far.
Think mobility impairment, or aging in place, think of four legged creatures or grocery bags. We can do better now.
Inside
Any way can work as long you do it the correct way
Yes, the correct ways often the best way.
Pt post should never be in concrete. .8 retainage treatment will rot out in concrete. ICC is the code that prevails except if there is a state code
You can put pt posts in concrete, but you should put a few inches of gravel in the hole so that the concrete doesn’t encapsulate the posts, then water can drain out. If you don’t do this, it’s like installing your post in a swimming pool. On a recent deck remodel, i removed several posts that i had installed about 30 years ago. No sign of rot, and this is in heavy clay.
I don't get why people say "acrossT" there isn't a 'T' in the word "across" the word ends with the phoneme /s/...
Cause people talk how they want
I notice that too, he also often says heighth (th sound at end) instead of height. It may be a local accent.
Why would anyone want to build a short deck stairway to accommodate 2 people?
Exactly when you can build a small one to accommodate 4 people.
@@stairbuilding: The difference between a code seeker and a practical builder.
What happened to living in a free country? If it is my hime and my deck, then I will build it how I want. I am not building a deck for public access!
The problem begins when you BELIEVE you’re in a free country….sorry:-/