Place CPU on top first (or plastic cover) before removing the stock ILM, this will protect the socket pins. If you drop your wrench or ILM onto the socket pins your MOBO is toast.
You are a very brave man taking off the original clamp without a CPU in the socket. Those pins are very fragile and damage easy. You damage even one pin and your motherboard is toast. Always tighten the screws down in an X pattern so the frame will lower evenly. Once you feel resistance...turn the screws no more than an 1/8th of a turn. You do not want to crush the CPU down on to the socket pins or you might have more problem? Again if you damage those pins...you will be buying a new Motherboard. Hope this helps.
Great points. I mentioned the same thing, but I believe one great thing about the Thermalright contact frame over the Thermal Grizzly is that it has a rubber? Contact pad on each side of the frame to help evenly distribute the increased pressure of the contact frame on the motherboard. This is why I just ordered the Thermalright version a minute or so ago. I have the Thermal Grizzly version and I’m afraid I may have it too tight even after being very careful. This could be causing me to not reach the full overclocking potential of my DDR5 ram kit(G.Skill 32Gb 7800mhz XMP kit). Right now it’s stable with just XMP settings and no manual adjustments, but I bet I could achieve 8000mhz with the same kit if I was using the Thermalright frame in its place since it shouldn’t cause unwanted uneven pressure on the board and memory connections.
@@hadleys.4869 That's where Thermalright dropped the ball with no detailed instructions on how to mount it properly. I would highly recommend watching the Gamers Nexus hot to install it. They go into great detail on it. Hope that helps. Cheers
wrong not to say what he did was smart, but you can damage dozens of pins and have fine usability.. if you're lucky. iirc derbaurer went close to 40 at one point on one generation and was fine. Not to say that's what you should ever be okay with, it's easy enough to bend some back.. But so, so many pins are either straight up unused placeholders, or grounds. As long as the pins are also not bent and touching one another, also, obviously.
What about the backplate? I watched a video and saw there was a backplate and they didn't take it off when installing this. Could of been a CPU cooler backplate so my question is do you take anything off the back? Thanks for the video!
I think I am going to leave the CPU in the socket while removing ILM and placing frame. I worry about the pins being damaged by my dropping anything. I've seen that recommended elsewhere.
@@EmorindomX hehe, i just loosened the first screw and "oh sh** maybe I should open the ilm first!" :D I think it would go flying. The tension on these is not to underestimate:D
That's actually how you have to do it. Remove the old plate without touching the cpu and install the new plate. Before taking out the old plate, clean the old paste from the cpu and cooler
Thanks for the video! However, you should *always* keep the CPU or the original plastic cover over the socket while replacing the frame to avoid damage to the extremely sensitive pins.
I am guessing this is a asus board seeing that you have 2 mounting holes and if so are you using the 1200 socket mounting still or did you upgrade to the 1700 kit from arctic?
It's a bit over kill to only slightly turn the screw when the frame is so loose. What I do is very lightly hold the long part of the wrench, gently turn anti clockwise to find the start of the threads and then while holding the wrench very gently between 2 fingers slowly turn it clockwise until there is resistance and the wrench slips in your fingers. Do that in a cross pattern until they are all done. Then make sure there is equal space all around the IHS. From there tighten in a cross pattern with 1/8th turns until there is resistance like it has bottomed out.
I did it like this, except I did smaller 180° turns then went diagonal and repeat until resistance. Then did the bottom out thing. Hitting 30C° at idle on a i5 12600k so I must have done something right.
@@linkup901ify Same. I did something right. Sitting at 11C on my coolest core right now (ambient is pretty cool and I have a 280mm AIO). However, I am wondering about the coil whine that started only after installation. I actually did not bottom out the frame for fear of pressing too hard on the pins. The first time I didn't have enough contact. This may be a first for me, but even the GN review did not have enough detail regarding installation steps. So, it is supposed to be bottomed out?
@@Jordan-jn2me Yeah it should bottomed out. You can tell because after resistance you can still turn it easily with a bit of strength but then you get a point where you know it's fully settled and you would have to now push hard to get it to move at all anymore. For some reason I thought I had replied to this already. So if there is a double reply then my fail.
@linkup901ify I'm installing this on my 13th gen on a z690 board, coming from amd, first intel build, any tips guys for doing this? From what I've gathered its go tight on all 4 screws, then incrementally untill a stop which needs alot of force to keep screwing?
@@FlexxRG No no, don't go tight tight. I would really recommend you look up the Gamers Nexus Thermalright contact frame review. In hindsight, it was actually very helpful. I went too tight at one point and got a memory error. There are no torque specs so itsa delicate balance. I have a good board myself and it does have some leeway, but not a lot. Really, the best thing you could do is look up the GN review.
Hi, I bought Z790 Asus Hero Max and there doesn't seem to be enough length for screws? I can barely screw one side, but if i even unscrew by 1 mm, the plate falls off, so i can't even have two cross screws screwed at once
@@EmorindomX another good way to prevent the backplate is to install the first part of the cpu cooler that goes on the back. It will cover the backplate and keep it in place.
Do these frames give enough pressure to get good contact on the pins? The tension on the lever was phenomenal. Was actually worried I was going to break something the first time I installed the cpu. Surely the tension is to generate a good contact surface on the delicate pins. Does the frame manage this alone? Do I need to screw it into next week to ensure good contact?
Do not overtighten these frames. Just go until the screws stop. The retention bracket causes uneven pressure. The goal of these is to produce even pressure across the CPU. From my experience, I have two of these frames, and I have installed them 3 or 4 times with different processors and never had a contact problem with the pins.
Installing it has never been much of a trouble to begin with. What is tricky about it however, is how tightly that frame should be screwed in on the CPU. Just a smidge too tight or too loose and you're in for a world of pain regarding your PC functionality. I'd suggest getting a good torque driver together with this frame should you decide to get it.
@@EmorindomX I have an aio with the thermal paste pre-installed. Would I have to reapply thermal paste when swapping out my Intel ILM and reseating my cooler?
I'm not sure if any air cooler can cool the 13700k enough so it doesn't throttle. I had to upgrade from a 240mm AIO kit to a 420mm AIO kit to keep it cool (this is on stock retention bracket, I have the anti-bending frame in the mail).
@@awdrifter3394 I've read with MX-6, it will work, but the Assassin 120 and Noctua D15 are about the only 2 air coolers that can keep it under 90C with stock settings. Also, setting the bios to limit power to max transient 253w like the chip is rated is highly suggested. Many mobo's will preset to limitless power, which can overdrive the chips too much. I've read, if you keep it at stock power settings, and also undervolt slightly, the air coolers are pretty good.... ...Now watch...I'll end up getting a 420rad in the next month or so. LOL.
@@EmorindomX okay , thanks for the reply. Here's the method i'm going to try: - insert cpu - remove stock bracket without closing retention latch - install TG frame Is that the way to do it or should i use the stock latch and then remove it?
Me too I think also 9/10 months I just installed it but got no better temps tried again extra extra carefully (even though I did the first time) this time till I felt the screws hit snug and firm but not too much pressure etc and still no difference in temps. I changed nothing to any settings whatsoever.Hope this helps and did you try to put yourself yet and if so what’s the result ..?
@@abdellatifcheater9833 The original retention bracket on all LGA 1700 motherboards causes the CPU to bend slightly which causes uneven contact with coolers. These frames aim to apply even pressure to the CPU to make them flatter.
@@EmorindomX I think they are, they were already installed with the normal bracket so I don’t know why it won’t go in, and I even tried to reinstall the normal bracket and what’d ya know, same thing. I’m so confused and stressed out man. And what do you mean stripped?
I thought about installing one of these for a while and I've decided not to bother with it. The stock bracket carries less risk even if the thermals are slightly worse.
There's a backplate. Make sure it stays pressed against the motherboard. It's best to do this on a flat surface, but if you do it in a case, you can tape the backplate to keep it in place.
@@EmorindomX thanks I still think it's wild the community had to make a piece to avoid damage from a standard part a multi million dollar company screwing up a contact frame
This is fundamentally a preference and it is up to every individual to use their own discretion and make their own choices. I've done this a few times and as long as you're careful, there's nothing to worry about. I appreciate the comment and for anyone who is worried about it, take this advice and leave the CPU in the socket to put your mind at ease while you do the frame exchange, but make sure the latch is open.
@@EmorindomX I think you misunderstood. Even on Thermalright's installation video they ASK you to leave the CPU inside the socket. None of this is preference but it is part of the installation step. You being able to do this perfectly (even while blind folded) has nothing to do with preference and the steps are there for a reason. Even the most seasoned modders and overlockers make the mistake. Stay humble.
@@Pandemonium088 There's nothing misunderstood. I am fully aware of their instructions and methodology. It is a preference and I prefer to install the CPU after I've removed the retention bracket. It is up to every individual to make this decision. It is up to every individual to decide how they wish to install this frame. This is simply a video of me installing this frame. I did not brand this video as an instructional video. Feel free to make your own video installing it in any way you choose. Feel free to follow any guidelines, steps, or processes that you wish. Thanks!
I'm now finding this after installing in cross-pattern and tightened. Didn't do anything special. My Cinebench Benchmark results max temperature on an i9 12900k before was around 98C, after install is around 81C. Glad I installed this. I was not aware I had to be careful on overtightening it so now I'm gonna have to re-do the installation to be absolutely sure it's done properly.
Very good, but place the cpu first, and tape it down to ensure no bending of pins - if you dropped that ILM while removing it without cpu in place....bent pins.
Ive personally never trusted any included thermal paste on my daily rig. I save those for my HTPC and my Folding Rig which runs on an open-air chassis. Those pastes will never provide the best thermals but it will work and get you up and running, so if you're trying to save a penny then go ahead and use the included paste, it wont hurt.
The mounting bolt tension on the contact frame is more or less irrelevant as long as the bolts are snug. The CPU coldplate mounting bolts will have much higher torque and will likely override the ILM bolts. Use a calibrated torque driver to mount the CPU coldplate in order to end up with consistent and even CPU socket seating depth at 0.6N-m. The contact frame is replacing the ILM, which primarily seats the CPU to full socket seating depth via the high tension (enough to bend the IHS slightly) ILM spring clamp.
Then what's with all the torque driver talk and newton meter measurements? Not sure if it's true, but some people have said it won't post if they're too tight, or too loose.
@@EmorindomX What cooler are you using? I have a V5 which is a 212 ripoff and have never seen 90c even with my old frame. I have been using this frame with Grizzly Kyro and seeing about 80 tops on a full p95 load. Standard Voltage and clock speed.
The washers are not necessary, the Thermalright frame (unlike the Thermal Grizzly one) sits directly on the motherboard and has two teflon pads underneath so it won't scratch.
Игры
JEYI frame installation...
ruclips.net/video/ZRdU6pu0Bgs/видео.html
Place CPU on top first (or plastic cover) before removing the stock ILM, this will protect the socket pins. If you drop your wrench or ILM onto the socket pins your MOBO is toast.
Better safe than sorry (:
I was thinking the same thing like wtf cover that shit lmao
@@Lucky13766 he's a professional clearly! Covering it is for noobs! Hahaha
@@SmokingBabe420 we don't know when accident happens
I suppose if it's a brand new board, you could also leave the plastic cover on while removing it.
For extra security you should tighten those screws in a criss-cross pattern.
yup, if a mechanic torqued it down the way shown it would be a come back - worse with wheels.
Bro you are a mad man removing the stock retention bracket like that. I can't remember the last time I felt so tense.
i was worried about the pins but the sound of this was so satisfying.
You are a very brave man taking off the original clamp without a CPU in the socket. Those pins are very fragile and damage easy. You damage even one pin and your motherboard is toast. Always tighten the screws down in an X pattern so the frame will lower evenly. Once you feel resistance...turn the screws no more than an 1/8th of a turn. You do not want to crush the CPU down on to the socket pins or you might have more problem? Again if you damage those pins...you will be buying a new Motherboard. Hope this helps.
Great points. I mentioned the same thing, but I believe one great thing about the Thermalright contact frame over the Thermal Grizzly is that it has a rubber? Contact pad on each side of the frame to help evenly distribute the increased pressure of the contact frame on the motherboard. This is why I just ordered the Thermalright version a minute or so ago. I have the Thermal Grizzly version and I’m afraid I may have it too tight even after being very careful. This could be causing me to not reach the full overclocking potential of my DDR5 ram kit(G.Skill 32Gb 7800mhz XMP kit). Right now it’s stable with just XMP settings and no manual adjustments, but I bet I could achieve 8000mhz with the same kit if I was using the Thermalright frame in its place since it shouldn’t cause unwanted uneven pressure on the board and memory connections.
@@hadleys.4869 That's where Thermalright dropped the ball with no detailed instructions on how to mount it properly. I would highly recommend watching the Gamers Nexus hot to install it. They go into great detail on it. Hope that helps. Cheers
wrong
not to say what he did was smart, but you can damage dozens of pins and have fine usability.. if you're lucky. iirc derbaurer went close to 40 at one point on one generation and was fine. Not to say that's what you should ever be okay with, it's easy enough to bend some back.. But so, so many pins are either straight up unused placeholders, or grounds. As long as the pins are also not bent and touching one another, also, obviously.
@@ashryver3605 Thanks for the info.
Obviously nobody wants to bend their motherboard’s pins, but it doesn’t mean it’s toast. I’ve bent some before and managed to bend them back
Great idea to turn screws in equal, small increments starting at screw thread "reverse click"
What is the best tutorial for installing the contact frame to be followed? have the maximum grip with 2 fingers and then a 90º squeeze or some other?
Can i ask you what cooler you are using and how where the thermals?
What about the backplate? I watched a video and saw there was a backplate and they didn't take it off when installing this. Could of been a CPU cooler backplate so my question is do you take anything off the back? Thanks for the video!
No, it screws into the same thing that that original bracket was screwed into and uses the same screws.
TY, I mounted CPU then unscrewed like this video, worked. Been a hot minute since the last one I installed.
I hope there will be also contact frames for sale for older sockets like the LGA 1366
I think I am going to leave the CPU in the socket while removing ILM and placing frame. I worry about the pins being damaged by my dropping anything. I've seen that recommended elsewhere.
Good idea, just make sure it's open when you remove it.
@@EmorindomX hehe, i just loosened the first screw and "oh sh** maybe I should open the ilm first!" :D I think it would go flying. The tension on these is not to underestimate:D
That's actually how you have to do it. Remove the old plate without touching the cpu and install the new plate. Before taking out the old plate, clean the old paste from the cpu and cooler
This basically answered my question. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the video! However, you should *always* keep the CPU or the original plastic cover over the socket while replacing the frame to avoid damage to the extremely sensitive pins.
How do you keep that plate that locks in the screws to stick on the back of the motherboard ?
Thanks. I was confused looking at instructions that came with the frame.
I am guessing this is a asus board seeing that you have 2 mounting holes and if so are you using the 1200 socket mounting still or did you upgrade to the 1700 kit from arctic?
It came with an LGA 1700 mounting kit. It's an ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360.
I have a Corsair H150i RGB PRO (non-XT version) and the LGA 1700 standoffs were too tall. Using the 1200 standoffs atm and it fits perfectly!
Did you stop tightening one you hit resistance? Is it firmly in place or does it wiggle a bit?
I stopped at resistance, it's firm.
hi I am new to pc build. May I ask where you find the screwdriver in the video. Good video BTW
It came with the bracket. Thanks!
It's a bit over kill to only slightly turn the screw when the frame is so loose. What I do is very lightly hold the long part of the wrench, gently turn anti clockwise to find the start of the threads and then while holding the wrench very gently between 2 fingers slowly turn it clockwise until there is resistance and the wrench slips in your fingers. Do that in a cross pattern until they are all done. Then make sure there is equal space all around the IHS. From there tighten in a cross pattern with 1/8th turns until there is resistance like it has bottomed out.
I did it like this, except I did smaller 180° turns then went diagonal and repeat until resistance. Then did the bottom out thing. Hitting 30C° at idle on a i5 12600k so I must have done something right.
@@linkup901ify Same. I did something right. Sitting at 11C on my coolest core right now (ambient is pretty cool and I have a 280mm AIO). However, I am wondering about the coil whine that started only after installation. I actually did not bottom out the frame for fear of pressing too hard on the pins. The first time I didn't have enough contact. This may be a first for me, but even the GN review did not have enough detail regarding installation steps. So, it is supposed to be bottomed out?
@@Jordan-jn2me Yeah it should bottomed out. You can tell because after resistance you can still turn it easily with a bit of strength but then you get a point where you know it's fully settled and you would have to now push hard to get it to move at all anymore.
For some reason I thought I had replied to this already. So if there is a double reply then my fail.
@linkup901ify I'm installing this on my 13th gen on a z690 board, coming from amd, first intel build, any tips guys for doing this? From what I've gathered its go tight on all 4 screws, then incrementally untill a stop which needs alot of force to keep screwing?
@@FlexxRG No no, don't go tight tight. I would really recommend you look up the Gamers Nexus Thermalright contact frame review. In hindsight, it was actually very helpful. I went too tight at one point and got a memory error. There are no torque specs so itsa delicate balance. I have a good board myself and it does have some leeway, but not a lot.
Really, the best thing you could do is look up the GN review.
awesome quick to the point installation every other video makes it seem like this is so hard when it actually is not thanks for the vid
Hi, I bought Z790 Asus Hero Max and there doesn't seem to be enough length for screws? I can barely screw one side, but if i even unscrew by 1 mm, the plate falls off, so i can't even have two cross screws screwed at once
Make sure the frame is fully and correctly placed against the motherboard.
how did you prevent the backplate from falling?
The motherboard was on a surface, not installed in a case. If it's in a case, you could try taping the backplate to the board.
@@EmorindomX another good way to prevent the backplate is to install the first part of the cpu cooler that goes on the back.
It will cover the backplate and keep it in place.
Do these frames give enough pressure to get good contact on the pins? The tension on the lever was phenomenal. Was actually worried I was going to break something the first time I installed the cpu. Surely the tension is to generate a good contact surface on the delicate pins. Does the frame manage this alone? Do I need to screw it into next week to ensure good contact?
Do not overtighten these frames. Just go until the screws stop. The retention bracket causes uneven pressure. The goal of these is to produce even pressure across the CPU. From my experience, I have two of these frames, and I have installed them 3 or 4 times with different processors and never had a contact problem with the pins.
The pressure on the processor will be provided by the cooler, not this frame)
I am sorry for my English)))
Looks easy but what keeps the backplate in place? Mine fell right off.
I did this on a box so it stayed in place. Some temporary tape might do the trick!
What is the utility of this object ?
My cousin was high AF on weed when he tried to do this installation and well lets just say it didn't go well for him.
Great vid had any memory instability with this ? Better than Thermal grizzly? Tnx
No issues so far and I don't have a Thermal Grizzly one.
Is that counter clockwise turn til you hear a click necessary for the Thermalright?
Yes, just to give an even amount of torque and pressure.
Hello!, how much did you tight in?, all the way in until there was no room for another twist?, thanks for the video!
I tighten these until I feel snug resistance and then just a tiny bit more.
@@EmorindomX Thanks a lot!
Installing it has never been much of a trouble to begin with. What is tricky about it however, is how tightly that frame should be screwed in on the CPU. Just a smidge too tight or too loose and you're in for a world of pain regarding your PC functionality. I'd suggest getting a good torque driver together with this frame should you decide to get it.
Can you use air coolers with this? I have seen people only placing water coolers on it.
Any cooler works the same as it normally would with this frame. People use liquid coolers with these because they want the most cooling potential.
@@EmorindomX I have an aio with the thermal paste pre-installed. Would I have to reapply thermal paste when swapping out my Intel ILM and reseating my cooler?
@@kingjayjay98 You should, yes.
I bought the Thermalright Frame, Assassin 120SE cooler, and MX-6 paste.
I sure hope it will do OK with my new i7-13700k CPU.
I'm not sure if any air cooler can cool the 13700k enough so it doesn't throttle. I had to upgrade from a 240mm AIO kit to a 420mm AIO kit to keep it cool (this is on stock retention bracket, I have the anti-bending frame in the mail).
@@awdrifter3394 I've read with MX-6, it will work, but the Assassin 120 and Noctua D15 are about the only 2 air coolers that can keep it under 90C with stock settings. Also, setting the bios to limit power to max transient 253w like the chip is rated is highly suggested. Many mobo's will preset to limitless power, which can overdrive the chips too much.
I've read, if you keep it at stock power settings, and also undervolt slightly, the air coolers are pretty good....
...Now watch...I'll end up getting a 420rad in the next month or so. LOL.
@@Condor1970 Cool, hopefully it'll work well for you.
you got a lot of guts leaving the pins exposed and fiddling around, I would recommend leaving the CPU on
I almost got a heart attack from watching this ^^ The man has big balls
@@andersbjorkman8666 i made the exchange as well but cpu was not removed and it was advised so by installation instructions .
Will i hear a crunching noise from the pins with this like when you close the retention latch of stock brackets?
I don't think I heard any.
@@EmorindomX okay , thanks for the reply. Here's the method i'm going to try:
- insert cpu
- remove stock bracket without closing retention latch
- install TG frame
Is that the way to do it or should i use the stock latch and then remove it?
@@baloneyslice247 I would leave the original retention bracket opened when uninstalling it.
I have been using my i7-12700k for 10 months,
is it worth buy this corrector or is my CPU warped due to the time
it has been used and will not work?
Me too I think also 9/10 months I just installed it but got no better temps tried again extra extra carefully (even though I did the first time) this time till I felt the screws hit snug and firm but not too much pressure etc and still no difference in temps. I changed nothing to any settings whatsoever.Hope this helps and did you try to put yourself yet and if so what’s the result ..?
@@Yeah_sure_ I left it as it is, as the saying goes "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" lol
What tool did you use to remove the contact plate?
It comes with Thermalright and thermal grizzly contact Frame
What motherboards have that cpu issue only b660 ? Or z690 ?
And is the new z790 have the same issue ?
What issue are you referring to?
@@EmorindomX the high temp cpu socket thing
@@abdellatifcheater9833 The original retention bracket on all LGA 1700 motherboards causes the CPU to bend slightly which causes uneven contact with coolers. These frames aim to apply even pressure to the CPU to make them flatter.
Hey man. When I tried to put the screws in, it wouldn’t go through and it stayed loose. I don’t know what to do. Any advice?
Are the screws reaching the screw holes? and is anything stripped?
@@EmorindomX I think they are, they were already installed with the normal bracket so I don’t know why it won’t go in, and I even tried to reinstall the normal bracket and what’d ya know, same thing. I’m so confused and stressed out man. And what do you mean stripped?
@@Sha-gb5ou Are either the screw holes or the screws stripped?
@@EmorindomX No they’re completely new with the motherboard, I have the z690 formula too lmao
@@Sha-gb5ou Check to see if the screws go in properly without any bracket installed.
Is this required for B760 motherboard?
No
I thought about installing one of these for a while and I've decided not to bother with it. The stock bracket carries less risk even if the thermals are slightly worse.
No the stock bracket is worse since having huge pressure of IHS crush the sides of the core PCB in center.
0 measuring ur under tightening or over tightening
Vampire hands
Do you lose your warranty after doing this mod?
You can just put the original bracket back on if you need to RMA the board. There wouldn't be any giveaways that it was ever removed.
@@EmorindomX Thanks :)
@@ZeeeeeZy No problem! (:
@@Vlad_Shv The problem is not only the temps, but the bending as time passes by !
What is the frame screwing into behind the mobo?
There's a backplate. Make sure it stays pressed against the motherboard. It's best to do this on a flat surface, but if you do it in a case, you can tape the backplate to keep it in place.
@@EmorindomX thanks I still think it's wild the community had to make a piece to avoid damage from a standard part a multi million dollar company screwing up a contact frame
At the start of the video the installation steps taken is already wrong. Please protect the pins by leaving the CPU inside.
This is fundamentally a preference and it is up to every individual to use their own discretion and make their own choices. I've done this a few times and as long as you're careful, there's nothing to worry about. I appreciate the comment and for anyone who is worried about it, take this advice and leave the CPU in the socket to put your mind at ease while you do the frame exchange, but make sure the latch is open.
@@EmorindomX I think you misunderstood. Even on Thermalright's installation video they ASK you to leave the CPU inside the socket. None of this is preference but it is part of the installation step. You being able to do this perfectly (even while blind folded) has nothing to do with preference and the steps are there for a reason. Even the most seasoned modders and overlockers make the mistake. Stay humble.
@@Pandemonium088 There's nothing misunderstood. I am fully aware of their instructions and methodology. It is a preference and I prefer to install the CPU after I've removed the retention bracket. It is up to every individual to make this decision. It is up to every individual to decide how they wish to install this frame. This is simply a video of me installing this frame. I did not brand this video as an instructional video. Feel free to make your own video installing it in any way you choose. Feel free to follow any guidelines, steps, or processes that you wish. Thanks!
Everyone be like: You need to be extra careful with this, as one wrong move might causes a short circuit to your boards
Meanwhile this guy:
I'm now finding this after installing in cross-pattern and tightened. Didn't do anything special. My Cinebench Benchmark results max temperature on an i9 12900k before was around 98C, after install is around 81C. Glad I installed this. I was not aware I had to be careful on overtightening it so now I'm gonna have to re-do the installation to be absolutely sure it's done properly.
Very good, but place the cpu first, and tape it down to ensure no bending of pins - if you dropped that ILM while removing it without cpu in place....bent pins.
TY
Watching this without music, or some voice over is kinda of surreal.
Loveya
I need frame for 2066, any help
"The X marks the spot."
That counts for how to tighten screws correctly as well.
Put the CPU in first to avoid damaging the pins 👍
Viewers: Bro! Put your CPU on before removing the cover!!
Emorindon: I like to live... Dangerously. 🤓🇬🇧
Viewers: 😳♥
it was the best thing I did for my CPU! (i9 13900K) Temp dropped 5 degrees.
Same
Do you think worth to use the thermal paste that comes with the frame?
Ive personally never trusted any included thermal paste on my daily rig. I save those for my HTPC and my Folding Rig which runs on an open-air chassis. Those pastes will never provide the best thermals but it will work and get you up and running, so if you're trying to save a penny then go ahead and use the included paste, it wont hurt.
Nah, I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for mine
@@a_void too expensive
@@rigidhammer7376 It's like 8€ a tube and I change it once every 2 years. It's not that bad really for the best paste in the market
@@a_void but i used not too expensive thermal paste and change every 2 years more. temperature is good as it is.
im using liquid cooling system
My screws don’t lock in place idk what to do
I’m having the same problem have you diagnosed what the problem is or how u resolved it?
@@Panchirito_Official yeah I forgot the backplate lmao
@@matthiassilbereisen8910 lmao same
The mounting bolt tension on the contact frame is more or less irrelevant as long as the bolts are snug. The CPU coldplate mounting bolts will have much higher torque and will likely override the ILM bolts. Use a calibrated torque driver to mount the CPU coldplate in order to end up with consistent and even CPU socket seating depth at 0.6N-m. The contact frame is replacing the ILM, which primarily seats the CPU to full socket seating depth via the high tension (enough to bend the IHS slightly) ILM spring clamp.
Then what's with all the torque driver talk and newton meter measurements? Not sure if it's true, but some people have said it won't post if they're too tight, or too loose.
@@enermaxstephens1051 its a lot of nonsense. It is obvious that the cf will float when the coldplate clamp is installed.
@@byronfranek2706 I guess my brain isn't working right now, but I don't know what you mean by "cf".
@@enermaxstephens1051 cf = contact frame.
Wait, it’s actually that easy!? I should get one of these for my 14th gen then. Edit: Got it and installed it.
How to void your warranty *Speedrun IMPOSSIBLE!!!
I'm about to do this in 3 days and I'm scared af of bending mobo pins
As long as you're careful you'll be fine.
how hot was the cpu before
My i9 12900KS got into the 90s at 5.3GHz. This helped shave off a few degrees. My i9 12900K runs even hotter.
@@EmorindomX dam time to boil a egg get those views lolz
@@psiklops71 haha
@@EmorindomX What cooler are you using? I have a V5 which is a 212 ripoff and have never seen 90c even with my old frame. I have been using this frame with Grizzly Kyro and seeing about 80 tops on a full p95 load. Standard Voltage and clock speed.
@@HardWhereHero ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360
shouldve left the cpu in there first , minimise the risk of damage the socket.
So isses :D
Where are the washers
The washers are not necessary, the Thermalright frame (unlike the Thermal Grizzly one) sits directly on the motherboard and has two teflon pads underneath so it won't scratch.
install the cpu first so there are no problems...
The freakin backplate fell off doing this making it way more sketch to align.. no vid shows practice for this scenario.. damn u asus
tape the backplate to the board lmao
МНЕ КАЖЕТСЯ У АВТОРА ПОГНУТЫ НОЖКИ НА СОКЕТЕ😮
You have feminine hands
should the cpu socket backplate stay or should i remove it?
It's used by the frame, so it needs to stay in place.
@@EmorindomX oh thanks.can installing without the bakcplate cause the motherboard to die?
my z790 aorus master died within days saw the backplate was hanging bakc of the board