E7 seems more dangerous to me than free solo, because your mind hallucinates some kind of protection, which lets you take higher risks than pure free solo.
theres a good video of neil gresham coaching indoor climber louis parkinson through his ground up attempt on this route. You'd be surprised how much of the route is protected from those placements when you have a good belayer.
Ethics in the UK to not bolt if existing trad routes regardless. If you went near it with a bolt there would be an uproar from the UK climbing community. One of many reasons that kind of makes me want to move to the US/mainland Europe where people are not so far up their own....
@@sinadin6732 I don't mind trad climbing stuff, but it's not just gritstone is it, it's any time anyone mentions bolting in the UK people kick off regardless IME. So, given you understand it so clearly, why don't you explain it? That is after all how people communicate without irrelevant condescension. As it stands, you've just proved the point to our US commenter.
Let´s say a few bolts would be put in for those who want to enjoy a safer lead. Those who want to uphold trad climbing ethics wouldn´t have to clip them. Every route that is bolted can be climbed on trad (well, or soloed, if that´s your thing), if you so wish. I do it in Belgium and Germany, where routes are almost exclusively bolted for safety. If I want the trad experience, I skip them. If that´s no problem here, why should it be in the UK? It´s just the other way around.
@@dereksmalls7808 agreed. Claiming that climbing trad ignoring bolts is the same as climbing trad with no bolts, shows how little he's thought about the matter and shows a clear ignorance about style and ethics.
if you have any psychological support e. g. bolts you conciously avoid (but they are still there should you got yourself in the pickle) it is not the same as proper trad experience. If you understood trad you would never propose this.
@@ThePolishTraveller Do I got it right - there are trad climbers and sport climbers. And in UK trad climbers say - we prohibit to drill bolts because it ruins our expirience. And sport climbers just "ok, we will not do what we like, and as we are sport climbers we just will not climb"?
@@Denis_Bobrov I'm a sport climber myself (too weak mentally to properly trad I'm afraid) so cannot really tell you what traditional climbers say but can tell you the one unwritten rule regarding the issue. It is pretty simple actually. If a route CAN be climbed (or actually if it WAS climbed) using trad gear without bolting it for extra protection it SHOULD stay this way. Nothing stops sport climbers to try it with the nuts friends and wires :) Oh, and there are sooo many more sport only routes in the world that you shouldn't absolutely worry about us sport climbers running out of routes :) Hope that clears the things a bit for you. Peace :)
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amazing commentary
Richie Patterson on the comms. Golden! (he is right about the reach into the pockets for the "smaller man", it's bloody terrifying)
the commentary makes me miss england and 2011
This is a trad route.
“I hope he takes the whip.” Damn, with friends like that…
"it's such a ground uppable route" for when you have about 10' of protection
A style that keeps the rack light! Way to go.
great climb, great commentary!
Great chat
Alternative Title: "Pete basically free-solos this climb without knowing it"
E7 seems more dangerous to me than free solo, because your mind hallucinates some kind of protection, which lets you take higher risks than pure free solo.
'I just got Adobe suite, I'm thinking of going premium' 😅
Excuse me? One clip in? On just about 80% of that climb, if he falls, he's hitting the ground.
theres a good video of neil gresham coaching indoor climber louis parkinson through his ground up attempt on this route. You'd be surprised how much of the route is protected from those placements when you have a good belayer.
Climbing comes in many forms and this is one of them... A good example of a mega classic!
@@liamwhite5529 So when he falls, the "good belayer" is going to somehow take in 20 feet of rope ?
@@strombopopolous that's what I'm thinkin
How to say I know nothing about Gritstone without actually saying it...
Psh E7. This ish is a straight up solo.
Who pre placed the gear for him?
Might have missed a clip, but only saw two that whole route, big distances…
Clip? It's a pre-placed cam and a tri-cam at the shot holes. "fairly bomber" apparently. I've never been near it.
@@fultonius clip in, like attaching to a bolt.
No bolts here, it's a trad route, but the only gear is at half height
1 bolt in middle
💪💪💪
Emmm, only one bolt? What? I was like "Okey now he need to clip, okey, one more meter and he definitely need to clip, okey now he must clip, okey..."
Not a bolt, probably a tricam or folded over wire can work too
Sport grade?
7b+/c
♥️❣️💗🥰😇❤️💖😘💓
DDM for protection.
good grief - what is all the bobbins they are babbling on about whilst that man practically free climbs this historic route? what a couple of chumps!
Why not add a few bolts if there's really no good protection. Crazy stuff.
Ethics in the UK to not bolt if existing trad routes regardless. If you went near it with a bolt there would be an uproar from the UK climbing community. One of many reasons that kind of makes me want to move to the US/mainland Europe where people are not so far up their own....
@@robfodder5575
Move to Europe then. You clearly don't understand the "no bolts on gritstone" ethic.
@@sinadin6732 I don't mind trad climbing stuff, but it's not just gritstone is it, it's any time anyone mentions bolting in the UK people kick off regardless IME. So, given you understand it so clearly, why don't you explain it? That is after all how people communicate without irrelevant condescension. As it stands, you've just proved the point to our US commenter.
@@robfodder5575 "Any time anyone mentions bolting n the UK people kick off regardless"? That's just nonsense.
@@sinadin6732 as example mark edwards the southern climber who bolted several e9 lines got shunned to Spain
Let´s say a few bolts would be put in for those who want to enjoy a safer lead. Those who want to uphold trad climbing ethics wouldn´t have to clip them. Every route that is bolted can be climbed on trad (well, or soloed, if that´s your thing), if you so wish. I do it in Belgium and Germany, where routes are almost exclusively bolted for safety. If I want the trad experience, I skip them. If that´s no problem here, why should it be in the UK? It´s just the other way around.
Knowing you have the option of bailing onto a bolt ruins the committing experience of the trad lead. Set up a TR on it if you want t climb it.
@@dereksmalls7808 agreed.
Claiming that climbing trad ignoring bolts is the same as climbing trad with no bolts, shows how little he's thought about the matter and shows a clear ignorance about style and ethics.
if you have any psychological support e. g. bolts you conciously avoid (but they are still there should you got yourself in the pickle) it is not the same as proper trad experience. If you understood trad you would never propose this.
@@ThePolishTraveller Do I got it right - there are trad climbers and sport climbers. And in UK trad climbers say - we prohibit to drill bolts because it ruins our expirience. And sport climbers just "ok, we will not do what we like, and as we are sport climbers we just will not climb"?
@@Denis_Bobrov I'm a sport climber myself (too weak mentally to properly trad I'm afraid) so cannot really tell you what traditional climbers say but can tell you the one unwritten rule regarding the issue. It is pretty simple actually. If a route CAN be climbed (or actually if it WAS climbed) using trad gear without bolting it for extra protection it SHOULD stay this way. Nothing stops sport climbers to try it with the nuts friends and wires :) Oh, and there are sooo many more sport only routes in the world that you shouldn't absolutely worry about us sport climbers running out of routes :) Hope that clears the things a bit for you. Peace :)
Ron surely was the "Master" .