I found this video very helpful and helped me build my first few 400s. Always found building RC heli's and cars satisfying. The tough part for a newbie is setting up the FBL, which was overwhelming at first.
Thank you for posting this very informative video. I want to add a few comments. 1) Motor and ESC connectors. I tend not to use the connectors included with brand new motors. I prefer to “standardize” the motor and ESC connectors to one brand and model connector. This gives me the ability to mix and match motors and ESCs in the future without having to remove and reinstall connectors. I use 4mm connectors on ≤420 size helis, 5.5mm connectors on 500 to 600 size helis, and 6.5mm connectors on ≥700 size helis. 2) Solder. Make sure to use electronic-safe rosin core solder, not acid core solder generally used for plumbing. 60/40 (60% tin/40% lead) solder is very common, but consider eutectic 63/37 as it is more forgiving than 60/40 in offering a lower chance of ending up with a dreaded “cold solder joint”. 3) ESC Programming module or USB interface. Many newer ESCs can be mostly (but not completely) programmed right from the newer radios without an external programming module (USB interface, programming box, etc.), but you generally need the USB interface for firmware updates and to access some parameters not available via the radio. 4) Programmable servos. Not all programmable servos are created equal. Some programmable servos let you adjust only the center pulse (1520µs vs 760µs). Other programmable servos let you adjust many other variables as well.
i know evryone raves about the vbar..but in my opinion...the difference in the price compared to an ikon or beast..just doesnt make any sense..really your paying all that extra money just for the ability to setup and tune right from your radio..which is another $1200 on top of the $300 or so u pay for the neo...as far as flight characteristics goes...theres little ...if any difference than my 7200bx's or ikon..they are just as solid as a neo...and cost less than a $100...as far as the setup and tuning...from start..to finish..i can be in the air in 25 mins or less...i just cant justify spending a grand just to save 15 mins er so of setup time...and you cany even use your own curves...its either motor on or motor off...unless you pay even more money on top of what you paid for the neo..to unlock the extra features..which is an absolute sham...ripoff...kinda like buying a brand new car....but you cant play the radio or use the A/C unless you pay an extra fee..lol its a joke
Wow this is awsome, Helidirect coming in clutch, when I asked for a build video they're actually going to deliver. Actually a super soild company.
We’ve got lots of build videos on the channel with more on the way!
Great content, no doubt.
Solid Video. This will be the one I recommend to anyone interested in getting into helicopters. Bravo Brother.
Thanks man! Appreciate it!
Nicely done Nick, good info!
Thank you!
I found this video very helpful and helped me build my first few 400s. Always found building RC heli's and cars satisfying. The tough part for a newbie is setting up the FBL, which was overwhelming at first.
One setup tool I would feel lost without is my calipers. A ball link ruler or sizing tool is also very helpful for me. Please do nitro next!
Agreed! We’ll definitely cover tools in a future episode.
Great. I should have realized this wasn't about tools. I learned that HeliDirect sells a branded thread locker. Excited to try it out!
All good info. Thanks for sharing. Oh and I cover esc programers in the video. : )
Thank you for posting this very informative video. I want to add a few comments.
1) Motor and ESC connectors. I tend not to use the connectors included with brand new motors. I prefer to “standardize” the motor and ESC connectors to one brand and model connector. This gives me the ability to mix and match motors and ESCs in the future without having to remove and reinstall connectors. I use 4mm connectors on ≤420 size helis, 5.5mm connectors on 500 to 600 size helis, and 6.5mm connectors on ≥700 size helis.
2) Solder. Make sure to use electronic-safe rosin core solder, not acid core solder generally used for plumbing. 60/40 (60% tin/40% lead) solder is very common, but consider eutectic 63/37 as it is more forgiving than 60/40 in offering a lower chance of ending up with a dreaded “cold solder joint”.
3) ESC Programming module or USB interface. Many newer ESCs can be mostly (but not completely) programmed right from the newer radios without an external programming module (USB interface, programming box, etc.), but you generally need the USB interface for firmware updates and to access some parameters not available via the radio.
4) Programmable servos. Not all programmable servos are created equal. Some programmable servos let you adjust only the center pulse (1520µs vs 760µs). Other programmable servos let you adjust many other variables as well.
Nick, Great Video! Constructive criticism.. Look at the camera, Not the monitor... LOL
i know evryone raves about the vbar..but in my opinion...the difference in the price compared to an ikon or beast..just doesnt make any sense..really your paying all that extra money just for the ability to setup and tune right from your radio..which is another $1200 on top of the $300 or so u pay for the neo...as far as flight characteristics goes...theres little ...if any difference than my 7200bx's or ikon..they are just as solid as a neo...and cost less than a $100...as far as the setup and tuning...from start..to finish..i can be in the air in 25 mins or less...i just cant justify spending a grand just to save 15 mins er so of setup time...and you cany even use your own curves...its either motor on or motor off...unless you pay even more money on top of what you paid for the neo..to unlock the extra features..which is an absolute sham...ripoff...kinda like buying a brand new car....but you cant play the radio or use the A/C unless you pay an extra fee..lol its a joke