Wow so much experience that is offered your video's that I know I am going to have to watch over and over again. I absolutely love the work station being a one time build and never to need another for life ( mind blown ) . Thank you so very much for your time , knowledge and patience. I am looking forward to building my own . 😁😁😁
This is by far the most precise and well thought out work station I've seen. I built a large heavy workstation out of Timber stock that definitely is not portable lol. I'm thinking this will be a future project
Thanks Ron!!! I’ve been following you for years and love what you’re doing. In fact, like you, I’m upgrading my original Paulk bench to your new smart total station. Love it! I’m also building your smart bench, smart kart, and smart router table. I love the new cradle idea as well for my dewalt job site table saw. Oh and i forgot to mention, all these new Smart changes are going in my SmartWoodShop that you inspired me to build a few years ago. Thank you Ron for what you do!
Those casters are everything you need them to be. I’m so happy to have added them to my router table, but I wish they would have pre-drilled holes for the connecting beam, if that’s something you want to add. The steel they use is so hard, I destroyed my step-bit set.
Hello Ron, I'm in the middle of building your benches with both having the smart cart. Can you tell me the overall height with both benches and carts packed away for storage? I want to make sure they fit under my shelf. Thanks!
I'm having three problems with the cart (wheel sellection), and they arise when using the carts on slightly uneven ground. The carts glide around on my concrete shop floors, beautifully. But the whole thing for me was a mobile shop I could take out onto the driveway. There are minor height adjustments leaving the shop, and the driveway has some rough patches on the asphalt. The casters could easily eat these, but for the fact they are the lifting casters. If one encounters pencil thick ridge and lifts a little to raise the unit, the caster stays in the down position because it is on a hinge, and worse, it takes a 90, and blocks sideways against the obstruction. The other issue is when lowering the cart, if the surface is not level then the feet will not rest on the ground, and the cart will suffer potential damage from the surface, or from racking to support the bench. It may rock on some high point. The final wheels problem is the lifting wheels are amazing, but due to the design, they have almost no ground clearance when down. This means that moving the cart from a level surface over a curb or onto a shallow ramp, will ground it out. I think some of these issues are why the Big Dolly made an entrance. And I move my bench over obstructions all the time with zero effort when using even a tiny dolly, but the smart cart gets stopped cold on the same surfaces. This is a problem with the wheels, but also with the longer footprint of the cart. I modified a standard mover's dolly, about 2 foot long, with a cutout from the bench. The bench top now locks onto that dolly. If I come to a curb it will normally take it in stride, with my just pushing down on the end of the bench top. A longer dolly, or the cart will ground out in the same situation.
Hi Ron, Im looking at the 20v DeWalt router, were you able to get it with the plunge base or did you have to get that as an add-on ? I got your plans the other day for the Smart Kart and im keen to start building.
Was just looking at the plans and it says "Fun Fact: There are two additions to the PSK not shown in the plans that you will find if you watch the Paulk Smart Kart build video". I'm not sure what's so fun about that fact, but I don't want to go on an Easter egg hunt through a 24 minute video to find out what's different from the plans that I just bought. Just update the plans.
@@JasonPachomski Agreed! They should be updated, it's been a year. The fun facts are these: 1. Strips of plywood that run across the inside shorter length of the kart, just beside the horse feet to help lock in the horses. (i skipped these for now), 2. Strips of plywood drilled into the rolling wheels so one can raise or lower once side (2 wheels) simultaneously. (this is the last bit in the long video) 3. (in yet another separate video), he suggests 1/4 plywood squares glued to the corners of the cart to serve as feet. This is for uneven garage / shop floors as it is easier to get the table level (avoid rocking) with 4 points of contact rather than the entire flat surface of the cart.
Or if not, any intention on making plans for a cart that fits the Big Bench, so I can also use the panel rig? I'm not a mobile shop right now, and the big bench fits my needs much better than the smaller bench.
I think the whole sawhorse needs to be redesigned. Starting with the cart in mind, I want the whole mass of the foot to remain. Cutting out the extra 10 MM makes the foot a lot weaker. Obviously it works, particularly because if it is used in the Kart as there is arch support there. But if some time I just want to throw the bench up on saw horses, then I am back to the weakened foot. Obviously it still works, but I don't see the logic in making the foot weaker. Of all the parts of the sawhorse, it is the one that takes the most heat, yet it is the weakest. On the sawhorse, the top two feet are 90 mm, and the bottom one is now 70. It looks stupid, and 70 is 49/81 weaker, and 343/729 less stiff. And now, the bottom horizontals is lost in the bucket of the Smart Kart. To me the whole thing needs to be redesigned. Get all the horizontals the same 90MM; provide for the deeper cutout, on the foot; recenter the middle horizontal; possibly make the lower foot actually wider so that it is the same height as the ends of the SK, and restores the stock support function of the cut outs on the sawhorse. Or, make the sawhorses out of 1/2" with no cut-outs. That saves a ton of money, and would be equally strong, and probably the same weight. If one is using the Kart all the time, much of the feature set of the original sawhorses is gone, and some people may not need that middle stock support shelf either. Then you can put your business logo on the sawhorse. The middle complicated cutout should go, if the SK is used all the time, as Ron suggests. At that point the sawhorses, even with the horizontals, would be so easy to make that pattern routing and pattern making is not really worth it. Just screw them together and run them through a bandsaw.
Hey Ron, thank you for the design. Question: if you are selling plans and making money on them. Then why don’t you update them? Your PSB plans call for a 764mm wide saw horse. The smart kart plans makes no mention of narrowing the saw horse bases, only raising the horizontal ledge between the feet. Only in minute 12 of a 24 minute video of you NOT MAKING THE KART, but talking at length about why you made your choices, do you offhandedly mention having to narrow the base of the horse. Its incredibly frustrating. There are people giving away plans online who correct them when there are errors. It’s been a year since your video and I just bought the plans. I spent an hour certain I had messed up something in the template or somewhere in the process. Either give the plans away and just say “good luck y’all, best to scour all my videos for hidden dimensions and don’t trust the plans” or continue to sell them like a business man and please align your plans with your innovations along the way. Or trim your videos down- I appreciate you, but please update the plans to work with eachother. After all, you sell them as a package. They should work like a package. Thanks.
@@SteveStaves Well...the overlap between talented / innovative woodworkers and great video makers who respond is narrow. They're out there but more the exception than the rule. If Ron made videos like "Fix this Build that" or plans like him, I probably could have gotten this together in far fewer hours. But at this point I've completed my bench and it took a lot of time but i'm really happy with it - and the smart kart is awesome. And I will say, I learned more along the way because of the pieces of information missing. I'd never used a router before this venture (still learning) The biggest takeaways: Do spend a little more on the plywood. I made one part with 5 layer Birch plywood and another part with 7 or 8 layer. And it's just easier to work with better material, from the 200 holes to the cuts. The second thing I would consider is using a different screw for the top and countersinking with no glue. By the time you finish, you don't want to do it again so it would be nice to be able to replace the top of it without starting from scratch some day. This was a suggestion from a master woodworker i know who turned me on to the Paulk bench.
@@kaisersoze277 yeah the updated plans would've been better. I also wish that I had bought slighty better and lighter plywood. I got some maple ply with hardwood core which is medium quality (75 a sheet is real competitive in Boston in 2023, yeah that's sad), but something else might've been better, there's some tear out and it's a bit bowed, the assembly was annoying
@@MrTresto Yep, Ron's site NOW has a link to Ultra Light plywood which would have yielded a killer result. Unfortunately the cost came out to 40% more, and the only place in my area that sold it was a pro contractor style store that closed at 3:30pm mon - Fri. And no friends with pickup trucks could leave work early to come help me pick up. Oh well. The bench is still amazing.
Ron are you going to modify the original plans smart bench to include the 42 mm foot + increased depth? 😅 Just a quick suggestion, but thank you so much for your content and sharing your tremendous experience.
It needs to be an alternative, because if some people feel they don't need a cart, then all that would do is weaken the foot. For me, starting with the cart in mind, I want the whole mass of the foot to remain. Cutting out the extra 10 MM makes the foot a lot weaker. Obviously it works, particularly because if it is used in the Kart as there is arch support there. But if some time I just want to throw the bench up on saw horses, then I am back to the weakened foot. Obviously it still works, but I don't see the logic in making the foot weaker. On the tree the top two feet are 90 mm, and the bottom one is now 70. It looks stupid, and 70 is 49/81 weaker, and 343/729 less stiff. And now, the bottom "shelf" is lost in the bucket of the Smart Kart. To me the whole thing needs to be redesigned. Get all the horizontals the same 90MM; provide for the deeper cutout, on the foot; recenter the middle horizontal; possibly made the lower foot actually wider so that it is the same height as the ends of the SK, and restores the stock support function of the cut outs on the sawhorse.
Why are u talking in metric? Oh I forgot your up in Washington, the part of the country that thinks rioting is ok, and police are bad. Not saying u Ron, just your politicians
@@iowamatt2519 In short, for accuracy, simplicity, and world wide viewers, my understanding is that Ron makes his plans in metric and then converts them to standard. That being said, a lot of things in the cabinet building world are metric. European hinges, shelf pegs, jigs, 20mm bench dogs, plywood, and tools. My tools from Festool are in metric only as an example. Metric is more accurate for small measurements and Standard is easier for construction (think studs 16" on center). The only time I don't like metric is larger measurements. It is easier for me to look at some plywood and think 4 ft then 1219mm.
I like seeing CNC grade work being done by hand !
your system developments are exciting Ron. It's obvious to us, you love what you're doing.
Wow so much experience that is offered your video's that I know I am going to have to watch over and over again. I absolutely love the work station being a one time build and never to need another for life ( mind blown ) .
Thank you so very much for your time , knowledge and patience. I am looking forward to building my own . 😁😁😁
This is by far the most precise and well thought out work station I've seen. I built a large heavy workstation out of Timber stock that definitely is not portable lol. I'm thinking this will be a future project
Thanks Ron!!! I’ve been following you for years and love what you’re doing. In fact, like you, I’m upgrading my original Paulk bench to your new smart total station. Love it! I’m also building your smart bench, smart kart, and smart router table. I love the new cradle idea as well for my dewalt job site table saw. Oh and i forgot to mention, all these new Smart changes are going in my SmartWoodShop that you inspired me to build a few years ago. Thank you Ron for what you do!
Nice work Ron. Never stop
Seems to be a little into the future....
No plans yet.
REALLY love the detail in this video.
Awesome! I like your inventions.
Nice design.
Those casters are everything you need them to be. I’m so happy to have added them to my router table, but I wish they would have pre-drilled holes for the connecting beam, if that’s something you want to add. The steel they use is so hard, I destroyed my step-bit set.
Even under PSK materials/supplies, I see no link to the wheels you used. Could you provide one?
I got mine from Amazon. SPACECARE $27.99 a set of 4. Highly recommend
If you need any practice you could come to Florida and help me build some kitchen cabinets and put down some vinyl plank flooring
Nice work.
Have any videos of these work stations in action ?
It would be cool to see some cutting like how it's used .
Thanks for the videos
only a few hundred😎
Great Job Nicely Done RON 👍
Great idea Ron!
Thank you for your quick response
How do you roll it in and out of the trailer?
Hi Ron, I see you have the saw stop in the cradle. Just wondering how the weight compares with the older DeWalt you used to have.
The SS it the heaviest Jobsite Saw I know of at 88lbs
Hello Ron, I'm in the middle of building your benches with both having the smart cart. Can you tell me the overall height with both benches and carts packed away for storage? I want to make sure they fit under my shelf. Thanks!
Just wondering why you chose the FastCap screws for the Kart and the trim head screws for the bench. Is there a structural reason?
I must have missed something.. that's the first time I'm seeing the sawstop in one of your trays!
You didn't miss it, he's not done with that yet.
Which size of festool dust extractor do you use on your smart cart setup? 26?
I'm having three problems with the cart (wheel sellection), and they arise when using the carts on slightly uneven ground. The carts glide around on my concrete shop floors, beautifully. But the whole thing for me was a mobile shop I could take out onto the driveway. There are minor height adjustments leaving the shop, and the driveway has some rough patches on the asphalt. The casters could easily eat these, but for the fact they are the lifting casters. If one encounters pencil thick ridge and lifts a little to raise the unit, the caster stays in the down position because it is on a hinge, and worse, it takes a 90, and blocks sideways against the obstruction.
The other issue is when lowering the cart, if the surface is not level then the feet will not rest on the ground, and the cart will suffer potential damage from the surface, or from racking to support the bench. It may rock on some high point.
The final wheels problem is the lifting wheels are amazing, but due to the design, they have almost no ground clearance when down. This means that moving the cart from a level surface over a curb or onto a shallow ramp, will ground it out.
I think some of these issues are why the Big Dolly made an entrance. And I move my bench over obstructions all the time with zero effort when using even a tiny dolly, but the smart cart gets stopped cold on the same surfaces. This is a problem with the wheels, but also with the longer footprint of the cart. I modified a standard mover's dolly, about 2 foot long, with a cutout from the bench. The bench top now locks onto that dolly. If I come to a curb it will normally take it in stride, with my just pushing down on the end of the bench top. A longer dolly, or the cart will ground out in the same situation.
Hi Ron,
Im looking at the 20v DeWalt router, were you able to get it with the plunge base or did you have to get that as an add-on ?
I got your plans the other day for the Smart Kart and im keen to start building.
The regular cordless makita base does not have threads but the plunge cut base does.
None of my routers have threads.
I checked again and neither do mine. Makita works.
Ron, why the chamfer instead of a round over?
I think the chamfer started because some of the parf system dogs that fit in the top, need that chamfer to work properly.
@@nutsmcflurry3737 True
I absolutely would love to see you start your fixer upper, your new house or...? Succes with the search! location location location ;-) and stay safe!
Hey how do you like those knock off Dewalt Batteries?
have you updated the saw horses on the other plans so that they're modified to match this?
No, he hasn't.
Still selling the plans, no updates. Just watch all 10 hours of Ron talking and try and catch the modifications with a notepad.
would be cool if Ron could go through match them all up, solidify the templates together, etc so that they all felt like they were 1 experience.
Was just looking at the plans and it says "Fun Fact: There are two additions to the PSK not shown in the plans that you will find if you watch the Paulk Smart Kart build video". I'm not sure what's so fun about that fact, but I don't want to go on an Easter egg hunt through a 24 minute video to find out what's different from the plans that I just bought. Just update the plans.
@@JasonPachomski Agreed! They should be updated, it's been a year. The fun facts are these: 1. Strips of plywood that run across the inside shorter length of the kart, just beside the horse feet to help lock in the horses. (i skipped these for now), 2. Strips of plywood drilled into the rolling wheels so one can raise or lower once side (2 wheels) simultaneously. (this is the last bit in the long video) 3. (in yet another separate video), he suggests 1/4 plywood squares glued to the corners of the cart to serve as feet. This is for uneven garage / shop floors as it is easier to get the table level (avoid rocking) with 4 points of contact rather than the entire flat surface of the cart.
Does the smart cart work with the Big Bench?
Or if not, any intention on making plans for a cart that fits the Big Bench, so I can also use the panel rig? I'm not a mobile shop right now, and the big bench fits my needs much better than the smaller bench.
Yes, the support on all 3 Paulk Smart Benches are identical by design. The Cart works with PSB,PSS, and PSBB😎
@@TheSmartWoodshop Wow thanks for replying so fast. I'm looking forward to building this very needed addition to my shop.
Hey Ron - great kart! Can I use this for my Smart Total Station?
Do you still use the lite wood ?
ruclips.net/video/waTBdo1cOYk/видео.html
I must Say RON You Did It Congratulation You Manage To Adding The SawStop Into Smart Kart Mobility... Nicely Done...I'll See You This Weekend...
When did Robert Redford become a carpenter?
So true! ^^
I need to buy a mm tape
I think the whole sawhorse needs to be redesigned. Starting with the cart in mind, I want the whole mass of the foot to remain. Cutting out the extra 10 MM makes the foot a lot weaker. Obviously it works, particularly because if it is used in the Kart as there is arch support there. But if some time I just want to throw the bench up on saw horses, then I am back to the weakened foot. Obviously it still works, but I don't see the logic in making the foot weaker. Of all the parts of the sawhorse, it is the one that takes the most heat, yet it is the weakest.
On the sawhorse, the top two feet are 90 mm, and the bottom one is now 70. It looks stupid, and 70 is 49/81 weaker, and 343/729 less stiff. And now, the bottom horizontals is lost in the bucket of the Smart Kart. To me the whole thing needs to be redesigned.
Get all the horizontals the same 90MM; provide for the deeper cutout, on the foot; recenter the middle horizontal; possibly make the lower foot actually wider so that it is the same height as the ends of the SK, and restores the stock support function of the cut outs on the sawhorse.
Or, make the sawhorses out of 1/2" with no cut-outs. That saves a ton of money, and would be equally strong, and probably the same weight. If one is using the Kart all the time, much of the feature set of the original sawhorses is gone, and some people may not need that middle stock support shelf either. Then you can put your business logo on the sawhorse.
The middle complicated cutout should go, if the SK is used all the time, as Ron suggests. At that point the sawhorses, even with the horizontals, would be so easy to make that pattern routing and pattern making is not really worth it. Just screw them together and run them through a bandsaw.
Don't forget safety glasses!!
A bit about the functionally and demonstration would be very helpful. I just wanted to see what this this is. No help here?????
Hey Ron, thank you for the design. Question: if you are selling plans and making money on them. Then why don’t you update them? Your PSB plans call for a 764mm wide saw horse. The smart kart plans makes no mention of narrowing the saw horse bases, only raising the horizontal ledge between the feet. Only in minute 12 of a 24 minute video of you NOT MAKING THE KART, but talking at length about why you made your choices, do you offhandedly mention having to narrow the base of the horse. Its incredibly frustrating. There are people giving away plans online who correct them when there are errors. It’s been a year since your video and I just bought the plans. I spent an hour certain I had messed up something in the template or somewhere in the process. Either give the plans away and just say “good luck y’all, best to scour all my videos for hidden dimensions and don’t trust the plans” or continue to sell them like a business man and please align your plans with your innovations along the way. Or trim your videos down- I appreciate you, but please update the plans to work with eachother. After all, you sell them as a package. They should work like a package. Thanks.
Surprising her does not respond to comments like these? I was thinking of getting some plans but seeing what everyone says, I am not so sure now.
@@SteveStaves Well...the overlap between talented / innovative woodworkers and great video makers who respond is narrow. They're out there but more the exception than the rule. If Ron made videos like "Fix this Build that" or plans like him, I probably could have gotten this together in far fewer hours. But at this point I've completed my bench and it took a lot of time but i'm really happy with it - and the smart kart is awesome. And I will say, I learned more along the way because of the pieces of information missing. I'd never used a router before this venture (still learning) The biggest takeaways: Do spend a little more on the plywood. I made one part with 5 layer Birch plywood and another part with 7 or 8 layer. And it's just easier to work with better material, from the 200 holes to the cuts. The second thing I would consider is using a different screw for the top and countersinking with no glue. By the time you finish, you don't want to do it again so it would be nice to be able to replace the top of it without starting from scratch some day. This was a suggestion from a master woodworker i know who turned me on to the Paulk bench.
@@kaisersoze277 yeah the updated plans would've been better. I also wish that I had bought slighty better and lighter plywood. I got some maple ply with hardwood core which is medium quality (75 a sheet is real competitive in Boston in 2023, yeah that's sad), but something else might've been better, there's some tear out and it's a bit bowed, the assembly was annoying
@@MrTresto Yep, Ron's site NOW has a link to Ultra Light plywood which would have yielded a killer result. Unfortunately the cost came out to 40% more, and the only place in my area that sold it was a pro contractor style store that closed at 3:30pm mon - Fri. And no friends with pickup trucks could leave work early to come help me pick up. Oh well. The bench is still amazing.
Ron are you going to modify the original plans smart bench to include the 42 mm foot + increased depth? 😅
Just a quick suggestion, but thank you so much for your content and sharing your tremendous experience.
I right-clicked to add a comment to the PDF for the PSS plans to remind me to make the arch 20mm instead of the 10mm on the plans.
It should be in the plans tho!!!
It needs to be an alternative, because if some people feel they don't need a cart, then all that would do is weaken the foot. For me, starting with the cart in mind, I want the whole mass of the foot to remain. Cutting out the extra 10 MM makes the foot a lot weaker. Obviously it works, particularly because if it is used in the Kart as there is arch support there. But if some time I just want to throw the bench up on saw horses, then I am back to the weakened foot. Obviously it still works, but I don't see the logic in making the foot weaker. On the tree the top two feet are 90 mm, and the bottom one is now 70. It looks stupid, and 70 is 49/81 weaker, and 343/729 less stiff. And now, the bottom "shelf" is lost in the bucket of the Smart Kart. To me the whole thing needs to be redesigned. Get all the horizontals the same 90MM; provide for the deeper cutout, on the foot; recenter the middle horizontal; possibly made the lower foot actually wider so that it is the same height as the ends of the SK, and restores the stock support function of the cut outs on the sawhorse.
Why are u talking in metric? Oh I forgot your up in Washington, the part of the country that thinks rioting is ok, and police are bad. Not saying u Ron, just your politicians
You just had to go there huh? Why not just enjoy what this man is sharing and learn?
@@jamesmarquis5615 I like what Ron does, but why metric? It was a low blow, I shouldn't have said it.
@@iowamatt2519 Ahhhhh and just like that..... you’ve gained my respect. Thank you
@@jamesmarquis5615 u too James, its been a long year
@@iowamatt2519 In short, for accuracy, simplicity, and world wide viewers, my understanding is that Ron makes his plans in metric and then converts them to standard. That being said, a lot of things in the cabinet building world are metric. European hinges, shelf pegs, jigs, 20mm bench dogs, plywood, and tools. My tools from Festool are in metric only as an example. Metric is more accurate for small measurements and Standard is easier for construction (think studs 16" on center). The only time I don't like metric is larger measurements. It is easier for me to look at some plywood and think 4 ft then 1219mm.