Great review I am a fan of the mega Jul !! if you are having trouble lowering your partner, Edelrid suggests you put your pointer finger under the the green part instead of your thumb. Then place your thumb on the metal nose of the device and apply downward pressure with your thumb while gently pulling up with your pointer finger. this will solve your lowering problem.
In terms of jerky lowers, there are several solutions that make it much smoother, it just requires familiarity and practice. It's not so great for gym climbing, but for alpine and multipitch trad it's a great device
If you clip a small carabiner into the small vertical hole of the mega jul, it can serve the purpose of a grigri style lever that allows nice smooth lowering action. I don't use the green lever for lowering at all. The lever gives very rapid lowering action, like you mentioned
I found that it was smooth and predictable for lowering with a 9.8 rope. Great in autoblock off the anchor. As with the Mammut smart (or alpine smart) the releasing mechanism requires a sort OUT and up motion. Contrary to simple, intuitive UP and only up motion. There is another video of this device in action showing an alternate release by grabbing with extra hand and keeping the device tiled a little. Much smoother lowering with this technique Great video and certainly helpful
We too tried it with thinner ropes and the action is better but still not great, it is seems to respond better to certain sheathes and worse to others. Will try the UP and OUT technique, thanks for your comment!
Obsession Climbing Thanks for the video! it is great to have reviews out there before I make my purchase. this was the only one that didn't completely sell me on the device for a new tubular device that my gym allows.
Steven Hermosisima So far, although more expensive, we much prefer the Mammut Smart. It's not without it's problems but the action is alot smoother. Its worth checking out if your dead keen on assisted locking, not so great as an "all in one" do everything device as you can't belay off the anchor or do dual ropes.
I use it with my double rope ( beal opera 8.5 mm). With the edelrid biner that avoids the biner rotating into horizontal. Especially good when you are being belayed on a lead by a newbie.
Great review I am a fan of the mega Jul !! if you are having trouble lowering your partner, Edelrid suggests you put your pointer finger under the the green part instead of your thumb. Then place your thumb on the metal nose of the device and apply downward pressure with your thumb while gently pulling up with your pointer finger. this will solve your lowering problem.
1:48 heartrate spikes.
In terms of jerky lowers, there are several solutions that make it much smoother, it just requires familiarity and practice. It's not so great for gym climbing, but for alpine and multipitch trad it's a great device
If you clip a small carabiner into the small vertical hole of the mega jul, it can serve the purpose of a grigri style lever that allows nice smooth lowering action. I don't use the green lever for lowering at all. The lever gives very rapid lowering action, like you mentioned
Good review, very slick. Exactly what I wanted to find out -pro's and con's. thanks for that.
I found that it was smooth and predictable for lowering with a 9.8 rope. Great in autoblock off the anchor.
As with the Mammut smart (or alpine smart) the releasing mechanism requires a sort OUT and up motion. Contrary to simple, intuitive UP and only up motion. There is another video of this device in action showing an alternate release by grabbing with extra hand and keeping the device tiled a little. Much smoother lowering with this technique
Great video and certainly helpful
We too tried it with thinner ropes and the action is better but still not great, it is seems to respond better to certain sheathes and worse to others. Will try the UP and OUT technique, thanks for your comment!
Obsession Climbing Thanks for the video! it is great to have reviews out there before I make my purchase. this was the only one that didn't completely sell me on the device for a new tubular device that my gym allows.
Steven Hermosisima
So far, although more expensive, we much prefer the Mammut Smart. It's not without it's problems but the action is alot smoother. Its worth checking out if your dead keen on assisted locking, not so great as an "all in one" do everything device as you can't belay off the anchor or do dual ropes.
I use it with my double rope ( beal opera 8.5 mm). With the edelrid biner that avoids the biner rotating into horizontal. Especially good when you are being belayed on a lead by a newbie.
Great video. Thank you!
Why not just tilt it with your left hand and adjust the lowering speed with your brake hand.
Without a carabiner clipped into the small vertical hole the tilting way of lowering is pretty uncomfortable
This was helpful - thank you!
What Karabiner are you using it with?
Megaljul from Edelrid or the Smart from Mammut???? :((
Personally I like the Smart better, its more expensive and less flexible in what it can do but it's a lot nicer to use!
Thanks for your fast respond!
I looked your videos and I will buy the smart, because I'm not really experienced and the smart is easier ;))