Some things to note, even though I'm very late to the party here. The canon pinion is actually staked in place, you need a staking set to tap out the pin from the canon pinion side, with a special stump on the wheel side to support the wheel. Also I'd advise against using hand levers on porcelain dials, the pressure can crack them. Grabbing them with a presto tool gently and lifting straight up manually seems to be the way to do it. This is probably an A.S. movement, 735 caliber or very similar. (they reused calibers # so you need to be sure you are looking at the cylinder version.) A lot of the performance loss with these actually comes down to the cylinders themselves, being made of a softer metal then the escape wheel to prevent wear of more expensive parts, the escape wheel digs grooves or even dents up the rims of the cylinder, requiring polishing to correct, replacement, or the cylinder depthing to be shifted to find a non-worn part of the cylinder. You can actually find these sometimes with "zebra stripes" on the cylinder where this has been done 2 or more times. Thankfully if you sit down and dig through the best-fit books, a lot of the these mid-later cylinder movements are in them and you can track down packs of replacement cylinders for them, sometimes without pivots but still, you can re-use the old ones if they aren't broken by using the cylinder punches that Bergeon still sells. I'd highly recommend reading Saunier's Treatise on Modern Horology, Watchmaker's Handbook, and the Drexler School of Watch Repairing No. 11 to get an idea of what can be done, and the hidden problem points these can have, as well as how to correct those flaws.
Hi Peter, I know these strip down and rebuild videos are not easy to film and are time consuming to edit so don’t like to criticise your endeavour BUT, you do seem to be rushing through the work without any care to the item or attention to detail. For instance levering the back off with a screwdriver instead of using a case knife, and rather than taking time engraving service marks in the case back (which is just a gimmick) and can be done with a permanent marker these days and removed when next serviced, could you not use the time to align the hands which in the final shot are completely out of wack? It does make it look a bit like amateur hour and you while this is a cheap watch you said yourself they will increase in value as time goes on and should be conserved. You did say you wanted comments good or bad and no offence is intended.
If you really intended to not offend, you could have put increased attention and care into crafting a more respectful message. Generalities, like "without any care to the item or attention to detail," are unnecessary in constructive criticism. It genuinely sounds like you know what you are talking about, and I imagine you appreciate feedback as well, so I thought you would want this pointed out. I imagine your insights would be received as wisdom more often if you added slightly more diplomatic phrasing to your messages.
I just received a Hampden pocket watch. The serial number shows it is from 1916. It is not working right now. Could I send it to you for repair? I would love to have it come back to life!
Great information! I am a hobby silversmith and just getting started in watch repair. I am looking for more information on doing this as an extra income with my silversmithing. So, any Mod direction would be wonderful. I did watch making your video on making your own watches by Ebay components. I also do Chasse work as well and some hobo coin art. So, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Some things to note, even though I'm very late to the party here. The canon pinion is actually staked in place, you need a staking set to tap out the pin from the canon pinion side, with a special stump on the wheel side to support the wheel. Also I'd advise against using hand levers on porcelain dials, the pressure can crack them. Grabbing them with a presto tool gently and lifting straight up manually seems to be the way to do it. This is probably an A.S. movement, 735 caliber or very similar. (they reused calibers # so you need to be sure you are looking at the cylinder version.) A lot of the performance loss with these actually comes down to the cylinders themselves, being made of a softer metal then the escape wheel to prevent wear of more expensive parts, the escape wheel digs grooves or even dents up the rims of the cylinder, requiring polishing to correct, replacement, or the cylinder depthing to be shifted to find a non-worn part of the cylinder. You can actually find these sometimes with "zebra stripes" on the cylinder where this has been done 2 or more times. Thankfully if you sit down and dig through the best-fit books, a lot of the these mid-later cylinder movements are in them and you can track down packs of replacement cylinders for them, sometimes without pivots but still, you can re-use the old ones if they aren't broken by using the cylinder punches that Bergeon still sells.
I'd highly recommend reading Saunier's Treatise on Modern Horology, Watchmaker's Handbook, and the Drexler School of Watch Repairing No. 11 to get an idea of what can be done, and the hidden problem points these can have, as well as how to correct those flaws.
Hi Peter, I know these strip down and rebuild videos are not easy to film and are time consuming to edit so don’t like to criticise your endeavour BUT, you do seem to be rushing through the work without any care to the item or attention to detail. For instance levering the back off with a screwdriver instead of using a case knife, and rather than taking time engraving service marks in the case back (which is just a gimmick) and can be done with a permanent marker these days and removed when next serviced, could you not use the time to align the hands which in the final shot are completely out of wack? It does make it look a bit like amateur hour and you while this is a cheap watch you said yourself they will increase in value as time goes on and should be conserved. You did say you wanted comments good or bad and no offence is intended.
If you really intended to not offend, you could have put increased attention and care into crafting a more respectful message. Generalities, like "without any care to the item or attention to detail," are unnecessary in constructive criticism. It genuinely sounds like you know what you are talking about, and I imagine you appreciate feedback as well, so I thought you would want this pointed out. I imagine your insights would be received as wisdom more often if you added slightly more diplomatic phrasing to your messages.
Agreed, on reflection negative comments don't help anyone, point taken and lesson learned.
We haters are more concerned about how you opened the back…
I just received a Hampden pocket watch. The serial number shows it is from 1916. It is not working right now. Could I send it to you for repair? I would love to have it come back to life!
Great information! I am a hobby silversmith and just getting started in watch repair. I am looking for more information on doing this as an extra income with my silversmithing. So, any Mod direction would be wonderful. I did watch making your video on making your own watches by Ebay components. I also do Chasse work as well and some hobo coin art. So, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
'This is how we do it'. I'm one and a half minutes in and you've made 3 horrible mistakes.
Thanks for knowledge
Yes I’m glad to see you back my friend. Love to see work on these watches.
How did he get the mainspring straightened out?
So glad see you back making vidios.😊
Nice video.
☀️ Promo`SM
Welcome back 💪
That is cool the laser. Nice and neat and legible!
Enjoyed watching teardown, refurbish and reassembly of this piece. Thanks for your time and skills.