On belts/harnesses: in general, three-point inertia reel for road use, four-point harness for the scrap* pile, and five- or more-point harness only for track use. *I was about to answer before I got to which harness you had found and I think some other people here did the same. In general, four point harnesses are maybe good for autocross and not much else; but you're aware of the limitations of four point harnesses, and that particular road-legal four point harness is probably at least as safe as a three point seat belt, but I have no direct experience with it. I'd say go for it, but be forewarned that you'll probably have to explain to a lot of people, possibly including law enforcement, that it's (a) safer than a regular four point harness and (b) road legal.
If it's going to be primarily a road car, an inertia reel belt is going to be a lot more comfortable. The harnesses are great for track use, but if you want to, say, reach over and change a radio station, or bend forward to get something out of the underseat bin, you're going to have to loosen the shoulder belts, which means they're not going to be holding you in like they're supposed to. You may just want to have provisions for both, as many people who have street/track cars tend to do.
Dads correct, but should be 5 point harnesses, yes they are a pain on a daily basis, but well worth it for the safety. They save you having to brace your whole body when cornering, enabling better control & faster laps.
never go 4 point, the anti submarine belt is important. make provisions for a 5 point incase you want to track it, but for normal driving go 3 point. they sell 3 point belts with a mechanism in the buckle that lets you tighten down your lap belt to anchor your hips in the seat for spirited road driving.
little tip i learned for using a holesaw to cut sheet metal: Clamp the sheet metal between two sheets of plywood. Cut through the plywood. Helps a LOT.
Coming along well. Re the inertia vs harness question - For a track car harnesses every time. If you go 4 point make sure you fully tighten the lap belt before tightening the shoulder straps though or the lap belt will ride too high (the 5th point of the 5 point is solely there to prevent that) although I guess with your seat angle submarining will be less of a risk. For a road use car I'd say inertia reels every time - just think how often you come to an oblique angle give way junction and have to lean forward to get a good view. If you have to slacken the harness straps each time there will come a time when you forget to re-tighten them and a loose harness is worse than a 3 point inertia reel when the crash comes.
I’ve Willans 4-point harnesses in a Westfield Eleven. They’re excellent, and use a standard seatbelt-type “buckle”, where the metal male tongue plugs into a plastic female receptor and is released by depressing an orange button. They take only a couple of seconds to shrug in and out of. A doddle compared to the (Airbus) 5-point harness with quick release box that I wear for the day job……
33:16 if it's as fast as you say you should add "hyper" to the front of its name since it's kinda thematic "The Hyper Mosquito" also our dad is right if it's THAT fast a 4 point harness is a must no if's or buts about it especially considering it's specs, even if it's a slow as a snail you can never I mean NEVER have too much safety since it's better to be prepped for the worst case scenario than be underprepared & killed
Four point are great when you dont need to lean forward to see whar is coming down lhat french lane befor you pull out. lets face it you are going to use any excuse to drive it even to the shops. Three point inertia fitted and eylet points for the harness. The small weight cost makes it more drivable. I had four point everyday and when I changed to both it made it so much more usable.
For my Locost, I will be installing a 3 point seatbelt. Using a 4 point is getting tiring very fast. This is for street use, for track use definitely 4 point for sure.
Between you there's a nice mix of babble and quietly explained practical skill. Who provides what I'll let others decide but it leaves us with great entertainment
On the seatbelts: my philosofy is road car -> inertia seat belts. Track car -> 4/5 point harness. The only issue on you car is the roll cage hoops that can hurt you on a accident. But I guess you know how much clearance you have. Regarding the mid engine rake, I have had a interesting experience on my Alfa 105 which I just converted to Watts linkage on the rear. the Roll center was lowered by 10cm or so and I could feel it as the load transfer rear to front decreased and the car lost a bit of front end response. I think this can be compensated by lifting the rear and giving it rake. The same applies to a mid engined car, by lifting the rear, you the mass of the engine has more impact on the load transfer to the front wheels and will make them load up in the corners faster.
Regarding inertia v harness, make provision for both. On my sprint car, which I drive to events, I’ve taken the weight hit of fitting both: inertia reel for road and 6-point for track. Inertia gives you the ability to lean forward at junctions etc. however, the nature of your car likely tilts the benefit towards a harness. I recall there being inertia reel harnesses, but I haven’t looked into their pros and cons. Great work and look forward to the next instalment! 👍
Whether off-road, on the track, or bumping about in less than perfect streets, my opinion would be 4 or 5 point harness. The added safety factor alone is enough reason to, but keeping you planted in a tighter vehicle is not only better for dynamic shifting of the driver and superior control of piloting, but in the event of an impact each occupant is firmly within their space and less likely to shift as much and risk as much injury to themselves or the other occupants. Think child seats and the design reasons behind such.
5 point Harness! Just 2 weeks ago we had an accident at Kayalami Race Track where a young person submarined, and ended up in a very bad state, induced coma and hospitalized. On the race track anything can happen as there are other humans involved.
The only reason a 4 point might be okay would be the extreme angle of the seat base, but I don't know if I'd risk it. The previous owner put a 4 point belt in my VW Corrado and I swapped it out for a stock belt right away.
Never be afraid of making a mistake. I've been a fabricator for 30 years and some of my best work were actually mistakes at first. Get your hands on it and keep going. Plus you're working with your Dad, what kind of good stories will there be if you didn't fuck up from time to time.
Well. If your going to do track days do both. Eveyday use standard belts as 4 piont are a pain in the ass. And doinng a trak day full harnes. Everyday use your only doing lawful speeds? 😜 Trakdays or option to do speeds its capable of,full harness. Also in a crash your seat fixings will pull through the floor. I know from experiance. Im not putting things down but I have had these things happen racing. Love the build and chan. Dad is a wizard. 💙
Great new intro. You can see how much more relaxed and natural in speaking you are now. That has evolved over the 4 years. Would like to see some of the house as well some time.
After 73 times, the new Intro caught me off guard and made me laugh 👍👍 So true about the CAD joke. 4-point harnesses for the Mosquito, especially given the fact you found a neck saving type. Quality as always 👍👍
Thank you for explaining the logic behind a seam weld. I've always wondered why they just didn't weld the entire thing. I like the new intro, too! Cheers from Chicago, mates!
I’ve daily driven more than one car with 4 point belts and it was a pain when I just wanted to nip out to the shop. Most of the time what I’d end up doing is putting one shoulder strap on rather than both, which is an awful idea. I completely agree with Andrew though, I think they’re the only option for your application, there’s no safer option. Just make sure you can reach everything when you’re strapped in properly, or you’ll wear the belts loose which is the worst thing you could ever do.
As an American watching all of your videos, I shake my head with a big grin! Crazy Brits are amazing! You two would be dangerous with a CNC cutter and a press Brake!
I'm so happy that awhile back, I stumbled on this silly little car being built into an absolute track assassin. Makes it even better that you get to build it with your dad. Don't take it for granted. Also it makes perfect sense that you watch Rob Dahm. More similarities in your thought processes than you think!
Of note: Definitely at least 4 points for this car. I'd recommend a submarine belt eventually when you start driving it harder, but your seat geometry should also lend itself well to help prevent that.
@@OliverPickard Agreed. It really would be a stagnant world if we all thought the same way. I was trying to say that you both nerd out over details that are seemingly insignificant to the majority of us until you go into the "Why." Congrats on the seating milestone!
As always great video gents. I love watching the interactions between you and your father, its obvious you both really enjoy what you are doing. The thought you put into your videos continues to amaze. Keep up the amazing work, i look forward to the next episode of project Mosquito!
I conrinue to marvel at your workmanship👍 Re the seat bely issue, do consider the major use that the car will be put to rather than occational track use. With a 4 point you will have to stop and unclip the car everytime you or your passenger want to retrieve anything in those underseat storage bins. If you have a radio unit then you probably wont be able to reach it. You will end up having them slack which might render them useledd in a crash.
Don't pay mind to people like that, I like to use construction paper when I make something. There's nothing wrong with it, coming from the car industry I totally get the method behind the madness. Coming along great looking forward to the next one🎉. Cheers from New York State.
Typically inertia reel or 5/6 point harness because 4 point allow you to submarine under the lap belt. A 4 point might be acceptable with that seat configuration though since the base isn't flat like normal.
I've seen his vx220, it's clever but for a road car (bear in mind tarmac wrc cars are geared to 130mph) that kind of down force requires far stiffer suspension than is optimal in my opinion
Re: belts. I would never put 4 point belts in something this quick or anything that would hit a track. You want 5 point harnesses. That anti-submarine belt will save your life. 3 point inertia reels have their own anti-submarine ability because of how they work, if you wanted to run those, but I wouldn't because its got a rollcage (noggin into rollbar isnt fun). Never a 4 point. You smack a wall with a 4 point and your legs are in your lungs
Dad's are always [annoyingly] correct. You'll learn, Oliver. One day. 😋👍 I'm no expert, but I recall reading that standard seat belts are so much more comfortable and convenient than harnesses. You've said yourself many times that The Mosquito isn't intended to be a track car. And you won't be driving like a lunatic on the roads. Plus what about being able to [reach out to] flick switches or pay tolls? You might have long arms but Meryem doesn't. Colour: wouldn't white be best? Same as undercoat for stone chips and easy to match for touch-ups. Maybe a two-tone roof like on classic Mini Coopers.
Love watching you guys and the car coming together too! I am about to Test Fire my engine for the first time (Porsche 914 with twin Webers). Just need to assemble a temporary fuel source and connect fuel pump to it. What a great experience to hang out with your Dad like this! Thanks for posting this journey! A fan from Nova Scotia Canada
Just came across your channel and had to sub. Now I gotta binge watch a ton of your stuff. Don't you realize I got work to do?! Awesome stuff! The craftmanship is top notch!
On the subject of seats.. some Kirkey style aluminium seats is what that piece if rolling art needs! Would you ever consider fabricating some or maybe even modifying a used pair? I'm picturing dimple pressed speed holes on the frame and brown leather padding 😍
I second the wood sandwich for sheet metal and hole saws. Reducing the throw of the cutting depth reduces end play and wobble at the cutting surface. The wood on top also stabilizes the end play. I like to sacrifice cheap cutting boards for each size hole saw and this provides a nice pool for lubricant or cutting fluid. I can then reuse that same cutting board over and over again
No matter wich kind of seatbelt you use, allways have them as close as possible to your body. Norwegian tests have proved that with 3 point Seat belts it is imperative that you open the jacket, and have the lower part as low down towards your hip bone as possible. They have even proved that there have been no deaths in accidents, in legal speeds, in the last 10 - 15 years, if the cars in the accidents have been of the same size and the the belts have been used correctly.
@@OliverPickard The problem with the three point Seat belt, is the cage. Are you thinking of some sort of insulation between the head and the cage? Those low Numbers of death, is of course regarding new cars with aktive and passive security built in the cars.
@@OliverPickardMy experience as a firefighter/paramedic is that I have never unbuckled a corpse, but I’ve picked up several off the road. I like 4 and 5 point harnesses, but they are inconvenient. Proper use of a 3 point inertia belt is fine in a road car.
@@OliverPickard I would suggest that you do the same on the bar beside the head as well, espesially if you go with the 3 point belt. This is something I have pondered about on my one project as well, although I am not sure that I will be allowed to have a cage in the project at all due to the strict rules in Norway.
This is great development thus far..!!! 😎💯👍🏽 I'm curious to know if you plan to install a *"High Ratio"* steering rack to ensure an enhanced turning experience..??? 🤔🤷🏽♂️
On the topic of seat belts, coming from the perspective of having a national competition license for over 20 years and a certified instructor for track days. I do not like 4 point seat belts and will not get in a students car with those as the only option. First choice is either 5 or 6 point harness and second choice is 3 point inertia seat belt. The 4 point is the worst of all situations. It is important for the lap belt part to go across your hip bones. The primary purpose of the so called "submarine" belt is to keep the belt low on your hip bones and not on your soft tissues of your abdomen. The 4 point belt system will pull the lap belt up and off your hip bones and if in an accident, can cause life changing damage (rest of your life in a wheel chair type of damage) that is completely avoidable.
I like the idea of a 4 or 5 point harness but maybe consider the DOT Legal version for a street car. A five point system is definitely safer but may be a bit of a nuisance having to hook up five belts every time you get in the car….likely worth it though if you ever throw yourself into the trees god forbid!I am glad you found the brand re Street Legal…I could not remember the brand for the life of me!
Given that Mosquito is such a small, low car the final colour should be something that stands out so that any half-asleep drivers don't loose you in the background
What a way to start my day!!!! I am so excited for you. You come up in conversation with my wife you've fast become like a family member in this household. The MOSQUITO is held HIGH IN MY HEART in as all time favorite builds. Love FOREVER What you're doing!! Thank you for sharing!!❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Regarding the Scimitar, a car magazine back "in the day" accurately described it as an inferior copy of a Ford Capri. That was in my mind a few years ago when a friend bought one, but I kept quiet.
I feel like it’s worth mentioning that using a dimple die on a hole makes the sheet far stiffer than than leaving it un-dimpled, which in reality is less stiff than the hole-less sheet. Obviously a complete sheet is heavier, but given that you are doing this for yourself, Oliver, and in your own words, aren’t trying to make money on it and are willing to spend the time on this project. It could be worthwhile dimpling as many holes as possible for maximum stiffness without weight penalty.
I've never been in a car with a 4-point harness, only a race buggy with a 5-point and passenger cars with 3-point. I would absolutely advise against a 4-point as they're prone to submarining, which can cause internal organ damage in an accident you'd have walked away from otherwise. Anti-submarining tech does exist in some 4-points, but it only mitigates the issue rather than solving it. If you insist on a multi-point harness, I urge you to use a 5-point, as 4-points are banned on many tracks and in many provinces for good reason. That being said, even a 5-point has issues in a road-going car. Modern 5-point harnesses are meant to be used with a HANS device, and even before that they were only safe with a helmet and "head donut" (a cheaper, simpler proto-HANS device). With a 3-point harness, your upper body is able to swing forward a bit, which helps as the stress of your head's deceleration is spread across your whole spine into your fairly-strong upper and middle spine. With a 5-point, your body is locked in and the full impact force is placed directly on your neck. This, much like the submarining in a 4-point harness, can substantially increase the severity of a crash. I know that 3-point harnesses work best when paired with airbags, but a 5-point can severely injure or kill you as low as 35mph without neck protection, and a 4-point features both severely increased spinal stress and a tendency to redirect impact force into your innards. So I'm firmly in team 3-point, but you can feel free to build the provisions for an optional 5-point in case it sees a lot of track time and you have a HANS device. Many track cars have a 5-point and the factory 3-point, as that is truly the best of both worlds. Use the 3-point when you're on the street without a helmet, and the 5-point on track. Of course, you guys know a lot and maybe you have sources of information that are more authoritative than mine, as I don't remember where I learned all of this. And I paused to post this comment as soon as you asked the question, so I may look like a fool by the end of the video.
Hi. Love the car. I'm not sure you get IVA with 4 point harness as I think the rules are you should be able to secure the seat belt with one hand. Since the 80s the cars all have a stalk. I have a 4 point in my MGA, but that's the 1960s, and the rules don't apply. It is a bit of a pain but does feel nice and secure, but I am used to them as I have a six point in my racing Sprite
A 3 point will be hard to pass inspection with at a track since it's no longer an OEM usage. But on the road, I prefer 3 point simply because you're not going to run all the other safety gear like a helmet+hans and such so the full safety benefit of the 4 point started to wane. That said, it sounds like a DOT legal 4 point sounds like the trick way to go.
Bloomin heck mate. The Ariel Atom. I've had a ride on one of those though they wouldn't let me drive it. That's a serious bit of kit. Those things are like rockets on wheels. If i ever get the chance to own one or build something similar I'm taking it. As for which kind of seatbelt to use, it really depends on the kind of driving you're planning to do with the car. If you're into white knuckle skin of your bum racing I'd go with the 4 or 5 point harness. If you're just going to use it for mundane daily driving then the bog standard inertial seatbelt will do fine.
Thank you very much, actual good automotive viewing. people in a workshop doing their thing. Iove the video, love the new beginning love the insight into you both. good work as always. 4 point harness would be my choice. What colour?????? interesting
I may have missed it in previous videos, but are you going to install a quick release steering wheel? It would make it much easier to enter and exit your car. I've had an NRG quick release in my 2002 RSX for ten years. It uses ten ball bearing in an assimmetric pattern to locate the wheel correctly. After ten years, the system is as tight as it was on day one.
The Elephant in the room is the lathe that apeared recently, its very similar to the old 14.4" South Bend that ive been renovating with a view to use it to turn up some parts for my Mini Marcos Rover K series conversion. I'd be interested to know what type of motor is used and what HP? Keep up the good work👍
Darn, that’s my situation, I bought a 7hp 3 phase motor thinking it would be easy and cheap to run it with a VFC but it would need more current than my supply can manage without digging in a heavier supply to the workshop. I now have a 3hp DC motor but the speed controller it came with blew as soon as I asked it to turn the lathe🙄
21:18 Braver man than me using the wheel of death with one hand and no gloves 😵💫. Even more dangaroo’s when they’re in a grinder . That’s coming from me who doesn’t generally wear goggles when grinding with a grinder with no guard . Scary Mary stuff 😆 Nice to see traditional metal working skills and their in period with the age of the car . Personally I would have made the cage to MSA regs just to cover the temptation to complete in motorsport although I know your choice is for road use only. Pretty chassis and it definitely needs dipping and plating or powder coating We use linear guides for the adjustable pedals, cheap enough of ebay , if you check out AP racing there are some details that you may be able to copy . Definitely needs a front splitter of some sort to stop understeer and the light front end feel , you will find it will it gets a bit dancy on the front end when driving hard on country roads due to the rear engine . Also definitely put a break bias lever in the system too . I’d also recommend dabbling in GRP and mold / pattern making . It comes in surprisingly hand and allows more freedom of design when packing components. It’s also a hand skill for ducting and wheel arch liners .
4 point harness is a pain for road use. Great on the track but frankly, the decent seat is 80% of the battle. Inertia reel will be much more user friendly for 'normal use'
Regarding the hole saw although I like them for smaller holes they can be a bit grabby with larger holes if the work is not well secured, for one project I resorted to using a fly-cutter, although it looked like a recipe for a fantastic accident it is far more flexible and of course easy to make. Late in this video I wondered just how much of a challenge you would face to make the entire pedal box transferrable from side to side, I realise right now that you want an LHD car but it would maybe be good to have it readily convertible to RHD. Not too tricky to keep an RHD steering rack in stock and a pedal box with flexible hydraulics and drive by wire accelerator would just suit being moved. As for the mid-engined cars being twitchy, I believe that is more about the polar moments than just weight distribution. The seats do look like a strange angle, but that might be a good thing when you are pulling a bit of G, I was tempted to suggest that you taped your phone to the windscreen aperture and watched videos for an hour or so to see if it was really a comfortable place to be! Well done with the project, it must be a major psychological boost to be at this stage where you can actually sit in it! P.S there are channels with 500k subscribers that don't get the number of views you do, so it must be good content.
In regards to the harnesses. Those seats are not the most supportive. Surprisingly comfortable given the form but supportive when whipping a car around. No. For this a harness is required. Id even say a 4 point is questionable due to submarining risk. However, it of course needs to be balanced against the fact it is a road car.
Is there any way to make hybrid inertia seat belt/race harness? A 4 point connection but on inertia belts? You've done the spacecock, why not make a racebelt!
Relatively new to this channel and I’m a bit torn, I love the content but don’t know if the videos are a bit too long. Studies have shown that attention span of people is getting less and less; closer to 20 minutes. BUT, I’m building a custom track mini and what this does show is just how long making brackets etc takes. A day/days just to make seat brackets and people don’t realise that. I think keep the videos as they are but maybe consider some shorter overview videos to keep those with a shorter attention span interested.
I'm not sure I subscribe to the short attention span theory because people are listening to 2hour podcasts and binge watching 10 sold hours of game of thrones but since our videos have gone weekly they are a bit shorter
On belts/harnesses: in general, three-point inertia reel for road use, four-point harness for the scrap* pile, and five- or more-point harness only for track use.
*I was about to answer before I got to which harness you had found and I think some other people here did the same. In general, four point harnesses are maybe good for autocross and not much else; but you're aware of the limitations of four point harnesses, and that particular road-legal four point harness is probably at least as safe as a three point seat belt, but I have no direct experience with it. I'd say go for it, but be forewarned that you'll probably have to explain to a lot of people, possibly including law enforcement, that it's (a) safer than a regular four point harness and (b) road legal.
If it's going to be primarily a road car, an inertia reel belt is going to be a lot more comfortable. The harnesses are great for track use, but if you want to, say, reach over and change a radio station, or bend forward to get something out of the underseat bin, you're going to have to loosen the shoulder belts, which means they're not going to be holding you in like they're supposed to.
You may just want to have provisions for both, as many people who have street/track cars tend to do.
Dads correct, but should be 5 point harnesses, yes they are a pain on a daily basis, but well worth it for the safety. They save you having to brace your whole body when cornering, enabling better control & faster laps.
never go 4 point, the anti submarine belt is important. make provisions for a 5 point incase you want to track it, but for normal driving go 3 point. they sell 3 point belts with a mechanism in the buckle that lets you tighten down your lap belt to anchor your hips in the seat for spirited road driving.
For a road car you should use a standard 3 point for usual everyday use but put mounts in for a 4 point so you can clip them in for track use
little tip i learned for using a holesaw to cut sheet metal: Clamp the sheet metal between two sheets of plywood. Cut through the plywood. Helps a LOT.
Another tip for any holesaw use is to drill another hole at the edge on the inside so the chips clear themselves from the groove.
Congratulations to the three of you on another fascinating video!
Thanks John
Coming along well. Re the inertia vs harness question - For a track car harnesses every time. If you go 4 point make sure you fully tighten the lap belt before tightening the shoulder straps though or the lap belt will ride too high (the 5th point of the 5 point is solely there to prevent that) although I guess with your seat angle submarining will be less of a risk. For a road use car I'd say inertia reels every time - just think how often you come to an oblique angle give way junction and have to lean forward to get a good view. If you have to slacken the harness straps each time there will come a time when you forget to re-tighten them and a loose harness is worse than a 3 point inertia reel when the crash comes.
I’ve Willans 4-point harnesses in a Westfield Eleven. They’re excellent, and use a standard seatbelt-type “buckle”, where the metal male tongue plugs into a plastic female receptor and is released by depressing an orange button. They take only a couple of seconds to shrug in and out of. A doddle compared to the (Airbus) 5-point harness with quick release box that I wear for the day job……
Thanks
33:16 if it's as fast as you say you should add "hyper" to the front of its name since it's kinda thematic "The Hyper Mosquito"
also our dad is right if it's THAT fast a 4 point harness is a must no if's or buts about it especially considering it's specs, even if it's a slow as a snail you can never I mean NEVER have too much safety since it's better to be prepped for the worst case scenario than be underprepared & killed
Four point are great when you dont need to lean forward to see whar is coming down lhat french lane befor you pull out. lets face it you are going to use any excuse to drive it even to the shops. Three point inertia fitted and eylet points for the harness. The small weight cost makes it more drivable. I had four point everyday and when I changed to both it made it so much more usable.
For my Locost, I will be installing a 3 point seatbelt. Using a 4 point is getting tiring very fast. This is for street use, for track use definitely 4 point for sure.
Between you there's a nice mix of babble and quietly explained practical skill. Who provides what I'll let others decide but it leaves us with great entertainment
On the seatbelts: my philosofy is road car -> inertia seat belts. Track car -> 4/5 point harness. The only issue on you car is the roll cage hoops that can hurt you on a accident. But I guess you know how much clearance you have.
Regarding the mid engine rake, I have had a interesting experience on my Alfa 105 which I just converted to Watts linkage on the rear. the Roll center was lowered by 10cm or so and I could feel it as the load transfer rear to front decreased and the car lost a bit of front end response. I think this can be compensated by lifting the rear and giving it rake.
The same applies to a mid engined car, by lifting the rear, you the mass of the engine has more impact on the load transfer to the front wheels and will make them load up in the corners faster.
Regarding inertia v harness, make provision for both. On my sprint car, which I drive to events, I’ve taken the weight hit of fitting both: inertia reel for road and 6-point for track.
Inertia gives you the ability to lean forward at junctions etc.
however, the nature of your car likely tilts the benefit towards a harness.
I recall there being inertia reel harnesses, but I haven’t looked into their pros and cons.
Great work and look forward to the next instalment! 👍
Thanks 👍🏻
Yeah, harnesses kind of suck in road driven cars. They're at least annoying fairly often, lol.
Whether off-road, on the track, or bumping about in less than perfect streets, my opinion would be 4 or 5 point harness. The added safety factor alone is enough reason to, but keeping you planted in a tighter vehicle is not only better for dynamic shifting of the driver and superior control of piloting, but in the event of an impact each occupant is firmly within their space and less likely to shift as much and risk as much injury to themselves or the other occupants. Think child seats and the design reasons behind such.
5 point Harness! Just 2 weeks ago we had an accident at Kayalami Race Track where a young person submarined, and ended up in a very bad state, induced coma and hospitalized. On the race track anything can happen as there are other humans involved.
The only reason a 4 point might be okay would be the extreme angle of the seat base, but I don't know if I'd risk it. The previous owner put a 4 point belt in my VW Corrado and I swapped it out for a stock belt right away.
Never be afraid of making a mistake. I've been a fabricator for 30 years and some of my best work were actually mistakes at first. Get your hands on it and keep going. Plus you're working with your Dad, what kind of good stories will there be if you didn't fuck up from time to time.
indeed metal is fairly forgiving when it comes to mistakes, in fact it's much scarier messing up wood working since it can't be fixed XD
Love the 'basic tool' fabrication...and the turn table display of the final product! 😀👍👍
Well. If your going to do track days do both. Eveyday use standard belts as 4 piont are a pain in the ass.
And doinng a trak day full harnes.
Everyday use your only doing lawful speeds? 😜
Trakdays or option to do speeds its capable of,full harness.
Also in a crash your seat fixings will pull through the floor.
I know from experiance.
Im not putting things down but I have had these things happen racing.
Love the build and chan. Dad is a wizard. 💙
Just seen rest of vid and loads are spread more over floor with seat brackets. Sorry. 💙
Great new intro. You can see how much more relaxed and natural in speaking you are now. That has evolved over the 4 years. Would like to see some of the house as well some time.
The house is now on its own channel (link in description) and we are planning to get back to it as soon as we can
After 73 times, the new Intro caught me off guard and made me laugh 👍👍
So true about the CAD joke.
4-point harnesses for the Mosquito, especially given the fact you found a neck saving type.
Quality as always 👍👍
9:35 look mom is CAD Cardboard aided design!!
I know you'll read this Oliver XD
🤦🏼♂️
The best thing to put for seatbelts is five point but I don't know if your chassis could support that
It could but it's a road car not a track car
4 point harnesses every day of the week, your father is spot on
Thank you for explaining the logic behind a seam weld. I've always wondered why they just didn't weld the entire thing. I like the new intro, too! Cheers from Chicago, mates!
I’ve daily driven more than one car with 4 point belts and it was a pain when I just wanted to nip out to the shop. Most of the time what I’d end up doing is putting one shoulder strap on rather than both, which is an awful idea.
I completely agree with Andrew though, I think they’re the only option for your application, there’s no safer option.
Just make sure you can reach everything when you’re strapped in properly, or you’ll wear the belts loose which is the worst thing you could ever do.
I would use a 4 piece harness from a Polaris RZR with the built in retractors. It’s the best of both worlds.
As an American watching all of your videos, I shake my head with a big grin! Crazy Brits are amazing!
You two would be dangerous with a CNC cutter and a press Brake!
I'm so happy that awhile back, I stumbled on this silly little car being built into an absolute track assassin. Makes it even better that you get to build it with your dad. Don't take it for granted. Also it makes perfect sense that you watch Rob Dahm. More similarities in your thought processes than you think!
Of note: Definitely at least 4 points for this car. I'd recommend a submarine belt eventually when you start driving it harder, but your seat geometry should also lend itself well to help prevent that.
Rob and I couldn't be more different but that's not a bad thing, if we were all the same the world would be a very boring place
@@OliverPickard Agreed. It really would be a stagnant world if we all thought the same way. I was trying to say that you both nerd out over details that are seemingly insignificant to the majority of us until you go into the "Why." Congrats on the seating milestone!
CAD . . . . Oh. Well. Good video 😂
As always great video gents. I love watching the interactions between you and your father, its obvious you both really enjoy what you are doing. The thought you put into your videos continues to amaze. Keep up the amazing work, i look forward to the next episode of project Mosquito!
Thank you so much
I conrinue to marvel at your workmanship👍 Re the seat bely issue, do consider the major use that the car will be put to rather than occational track use. With a 4 point you will have to stop and unclip the car everytime you or your passenger want to retrieve anything in those underseat storage bins. If you have a radio unit then you probably wont be able to reach it. You will end up having them slack which might render them useledd in a crash.
Michelle Mouton has still got it.
Sparco and omp do leather race boots I think?
Don't pay mind to people like that, I like to use construction paper when I make something. There's nothing wrong with it, coming from the car industry I totally get the method behind the madness. Coming along great looking forward to the next one🎉. Cheers from New York State.
Thanks Miguel
Typically inertia reel or 5/6 point harness because 4 point allow you to submarine under the lap belt. A 4 point might be acceptable with that seat configuration though since the base isn't flat like normal.
I would like to see a collaboration with Micha and his new business on the body his business partner does wanders with aerodynamics.
I've seen his vx220, it's clever but for a road car (bear in mind tarmac wrc cars are geared to 130mph) that kind of down force requires far stiffer suspension than is optimal in my opinion
Re: belts. I would never put 4 point belts in something this quick or anything that would hit a track. You want 5 point harnesses. That anti-submarine belt will save your life. 3 point inertia reels have their own anti-submarine ability because of how they work, if you wanted to run those, but I wouldn't because its got a rollcage (noggin into rollbar isnt fun). Never a 4 point. You smack a wall with a 4 point and your legs are in your lungs
OMP have great driving shoes.
This is a fantastic channel!
Nice new intro! Keep up the good work boys🤙🏼
I do envy your supply of hardwood😀
Another interesting video ❤🇦🇺
Dad's are always [annoyingly] correct. You'll learn, Oliver. One day. 😋👍
I'm no expert, but I recall reading that standard seat belts are so much more comfortable and convenient than harnesses. You've said yourself many times that The Mosquito isn't intended to be a track car. And you won't be driving like a lunatic on the roads. Plus what about being able to [reach out to] flick switches or pay tolls? You might have long arms but Meryem doesn't.
Colour: wouldn't white be best? Same as undercoat for stone chips and easy to match for touch-ups. Maybe a two-tone roof like on classic Mini Coopers.
With the belts it's Meryems safety I'm thinking of both as a driver and feeling secure as a passenger. Definitely not two tone
Love watching you guys and the car coming together too! I am about to Test Fire my engine for the first time (Porsche 914 with twin Webers). Just need to assemble a temporary fuel source and connect fuel pump to it. What a great experience to hang out with your Dad like this! Thanks for posting this journey! A fan from Nova Scotia Canada
Just came across your channel and had to sub. Now I gotta binge watch a ton of your stuff. Don't you realize I got work to do?! Awesome stuff! The craftmanship is top notch!
Thank you very much
On the subject of seats.. some Kirkey style aluminium seats is what that piece if rolling art needs!
Would you ever consider fabricating some or maybe even modifying a used pair? I'm picturing dimple pressed speed holes on the frame and brown leather padding 😍
Also, a gun metal grey would be a timeless colour.. think Astons, cobras, e-types etc 😍
They are really uncomfortable haha
Mosquito is looking very good, not supprised you haven't been contacted by someone saying work for us😅 but yeah well done to you all, looks. grand
I love your new intro, it really captures the dynamic between you and your father. Wonderful video as always, my best to your and your family.
Thank you very much
Nice work guys, been watching the series for quite a while now. I really wish there was a function to like the video more than once.
I second the wood sandwich for sheet metal and hole saws. Reducing the throw of the cutting depth reduces end play and wobble at the cutting surface. The wood on top also stabilizes the end play. I like to sacrifice cheap cutting boards for each size hole saw and this provides a nice pool for lubricant or cutting fluid. I can then reuse that same cutting board over and over again
No matter wich kind of seatbelt you use, allways have them as close as possible to your body. Norwegian tests have proved that with 3 point Seat belts it is imperative that you open the jacket, and have the lower part as low down towards your hip bone as possible. They have even proved that there have been no deaths in accidents, in legal speeds, in the last 10 - 15 years, if the cars in the accidents have been of the same size and the the belts have been used correctly.
That's really interesting information thank you
@@OliverPickard The problem with the three point Seat belt, is the cage. Are you thinking of some sort of insulation between the head and the cage? Those low Numbers of death, is of course regarding new cars with aktive and passive security built in the cars.
@@OliverPickardMy experience as a firefighter/paramedic is that I have never unbuckled a corpse, but I’ve picked up several off the road. I like 4 and 5 point harnesses, but they are inconvenient. Proper use of a 3 point inertia belt is fine in a road car.
@@tho4747 yes the halo bar will be padded as part of the headliner
@@OliverPickard I would suggest that you do the same on the bar beside the head as well, espesially if you go with the 3 point belt.
This is something I have pondered about on my one project as well, although I am not sure that I will be allowed to have a cage in the project at all due to the strict rules in Norway.
This is great development thus far..!!! 😎💯👍🏽 I'm curious to know if you plan to install a *"High Ratio"* steering rack to ensure an enhanced turning experience..??? 🤔🤷🏽♂️
It has a quick rack already, check out episode 55 for more
This thing is really coming along!! Super cool my Friend!!!....Wow is that floor extremely strong .....Super incredible...
"I know I can come off as a know it all. I know that." from the department of redundancy department. lol
Dad is right about 4 point being inconvenient BUT! I would err on the side of safety good luck.
On the topic of seat belts, coming from the perspective of having a national competition license for over 20 years and a certified instructor for track days. I do not like 4 point seat belts and will not get in a students car with those as the only option. First choice is either 5 or 6 point harness and second choice is 3 point inertia seat belt. The 4 point is the worst of all situations. It is important for the lap belt part to go across your hip bones. The primary purpose of the so called "submarine" belt is to keep the belt low on your hip bones and not on your soft tissues of your abdomen. The 4 point belt system will pull the lap belt up and off your hip bones and if in an accident, can cause life changing damage (rest of your life in a wheel chair type of damage) that is completely avoidable.
I like the idea of a 4 or 5 point harness but maybe consider the DOT Legal version for a street car. A five point system is definitely safer but may be a bit of a nuisance having to hook up five belts every time you get in the car….likely worth it though if you ever throw yourself into the trees god forbid!I am glad you found the brand re Street Legal…I could not remember the brand for the life of me!
Everything must be DoT/euro legal because it has to be homologated 👍🏻
I am afraid of screwing up every project. The secret is to say to yourself that there is no reason I can't redo this
With so much being integrated stuffing one thing up could have a domino effect and engineering while making a TV show is a bit mentally demanding haha
Given that Mosquito is such a small, low car the final colour should be something that stands out so that any half-asleep drivers don't loose you in the background
Loved the intro!
Great episode overall!!!
Greeting from rainy Cyprus
What a way to start my day!!!! I am so excited for you. You come up in conversation with my wife you've fast become like a family member in this household. The MOSQUITO is held HIGH IN MY HEART in as all time favorite builds. Love FOREVER What you're doing!! Thank you for sharing!!❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Awesome!!! Well done! Greetings from South Africa!
Regarding the Scimitar, a car magazine back "in the day" accurately described it as an inferior copy of a Ford Capri. That was in my mind a few years ago when a friend bought one, but I kept quiet.
love the build since 1st episode, will it have lsd?
Nope it doesn't need one, check out the Q&A at the end of ep72 for a full explanation
I feel like it’s worth mentioning that using a dimple die on a hole makes the sheet far stiffer than than leaving it un-dimpled, which in reality is less stiff than the hole-less sheet. Obviously a complete sheet is heavier, but given that you are doing this for yourself, Oliver, and in your own words, aren’t trying to make money on it and are willing to spend the time on this project. It could be worthwhile dimpling as many holes as possible for maximum stiffness without weight penalty.
Awesome video once again, although I do have to look away when you're using the hole cutter without gloves :) Loving the new intro too!
I've never been in a car with a 4-point harness, only a race buggy with a 5-point and passenger cars with 3-point. I would absolutely advise against a 4-point as they're prone to submarining, which can cause internal organ damage in an accident you'd have walked away from otherwise. Anti-submarining tech does exist in some 4-points, but it only mitigates the issue rather than solving it. If you insist on a multi-point harness, I urge you to use a 5-point, as 4-points are banned on many tracks and in many provinces for good reason.
That being said, even a 5-point has issues in a road-going car. Modern 5-point harnesses are meant to be used with a HANS device, and even before that they were only safe with a helmet and "head donut" (a cheaper, simpler proto-HANS device). With a 3-point harness, your upper body is able to swing forward a bit, which helps as the stress of your head's deceleration is spread across your whole spine into your fairly-strong upper and middle spine. With a 5-point, your body is locked in and the full impact force is placed directly on your neck. This, much like the submarining in a 4-point harness, can substantially increase the severity of a crash.
I know that 3-point harnesses work best when paired with airbags, but a 5-point can severely injure or kill you as low as 35mph without neck protection, and a 4-point features both severely increased spinal stress and a tendency to redirect impact force into your innards.
So I'm firmly in team 3-point, but you can feel free to build the provisions for an optional 5-point in case it sees a lot of track time and you have a HANS device. Many track cars have a 5-point and the factory 3-point, as that is truly the best of both worlds. Use the 3-point when you're on the street without a helmet, and the 5-point on track.
Of course, you guys know a lot and maybe you have sources of information that are more authoritative than mine, as I don't remember where I learned all of this. And I paused to post this comment as soon as you asked the question, so I may look like a fool by the end of the video.
Thank you for writing such a thoughtful comment I appreciate your insights
Hi. Love the car. I'm not sure you get IVA with 4 point harness as I think the rules are you should be able to secure the seat belt with one hand. Since the 80s the cars all have a stalk. I have a 4 point in my MGA, but that's the 1960s, and the rules don't apply. It is a bit of a pain but does feel nice and secure, but I am used to them as I have a six point in my racing Sprite
A 3 point will be hard to pass inspection with at a track since it's no longer an OEM usage. But on the road, I prefer 3 point simply because you're not going to run all the other safety gear like a helmet+hans and such so the full safety benefit of the 4 point started to wane.
That said, it sounds like a DOT legal 4 point sounds like the trick way to go.
3-point or 5-point belts for the reasons the other guys have already put in here. I'm quite tempted by the Schroth ASM 4-points as well, though.
I couldn't remember the name at the time haha
Bloomin heck mate. The Ariel Atom. I've had a ride on one of those though they wouldn't let me drive it. That's a serious bit of kit. Those things are like rockets on wheels. If i ever get the chance to own one or build something similar I'm taking it. As for which kind of seatbelt to use, it really depends on the kind of driving you're planning to do with the car. If you're into white knuckle skin of your bum racing I'd go with the 4 or 5 point harness. If you're just going to use it for mundane daily driving then the bog standard inertial seatbelt will do fine.
in theory this should be better but im biased haha
Thank you very much, actual good automotive viewing. people in a workshop doing their thing. Iove the video, love the new beginning love the insight into you both. good work as always. 4 point harness would be my choice. What colour?????? interesting
I may have missed it in previous videos, but are you going to install a quick release steering wheel?
It would make it much easier to enter and exit your car. I've had an NRG quick release in my 2002 RSX for ten years. It uses ten ball bearing in an assimmetric pattern to locate the wheel correctly.
After ten years, the system is as tight as it was on day one.
Ah yes I got your email sorry if I didn't respond it's been a mad couple of weeks, I shouldn't need a steering quick release but I'm open to the idea
If this will not be used for track , what is the point of s four point? Street car, three point all day
The Elephant in the room is the lathe that apeared recently, its very similar to the old 14.4" South Bend that ive been renovating with a view to use it to turn up some parts for my Mini Marcos Rover K series conversion. I'd be interested to know what type of motor is used and what HP?
Keep up the good work👍
It's not recent in fact we bought it the day after we bought the body, it's an inadequate 3phase wired to 1phase
Darn, that’s my situation, I bought a 7hp 3 phase motor thinking it would be easy and cheap to run it with a VFC but it would need more current than my supply can manage without digging in a heavier supply to the workshop. I now have a 3hp DC motor but the speed controller it came with blew as soon as I asked it to turn the lathe🙄
21:18 Braver man than me using the wheel of death with one hand and no gloves 😵💫. Even more dangaroo’s when they’re in a grinder .
That’s coming from me who doesn’t generally wear goggles when grinding with a grinder with no guard .
Scary Mary stuff 😆
Nice to see traditional metal working skills and their in period with the age of the car .
Personally I would have made the cage to MSA regs just to cover the temptation to complete in motorsport although I know your choice is for road use only.
Pretty chassis and it definitely needs dipping and plating or powder coating
We use linear guides for the adjustable pedals, cheap enough of ebay , if you check out AP racing there are some details that you may be able to copy .
Definitely needs a front splitter of some sort to stop understeer and the light front end feel , you will find it will it gets a bit dancy on the front end when driving hard on country roads due to the rear engine .
Also definitely put a break bias lever in the system too .
I’d also recommend dabbling in GRP and mold / pattern making . It comes in surprisingly hand and allows more freedom of design when packing components. It’s also a hand skill for ducting and wheel arch liners .
4 point harness is a pain for road use. Great on the track but frankly, the decent seat is 80% of the battle. Inertia reel will be much more user friendly for 'normal use'
Is the cage crooked for a reason? Edit. Do your research on 4 point vs 5 point. You’ll submarine under the belt with no center belt.
How about using your hole dies to give the seat brackets to more rigidity that big hole looks like its begging for a rolled edge
Unfortunately Dimple dieing 2mm distorts the heck out of it and it sits flush against the seat
Regarding the hole saw although I like them for smaller holes they can be a bit grabby with larger holes if the work is not well secured, for one project I resorted to using a fly-cutter, although it looked like a recipe for a fantastic accident it is far more flexible and of course easy to make. Late in this video I wondered just how much of a challenge you would face to make the entire pedal box transferrable from side to side, I realise right now that you want an LHD car but it would maybe be good to have it readily convertible to RHD. Not too tricky to keep an RHD steering rack in stock and a pedal box with flexible hydraulics and drive by wire accelerator would just suit being moved. As for the mid-engined cars being twitchy, I believe that is more about the polar moments than just weight distribution. The seats do look like a strange angle, but that might be a good thing when you are pulling a bit of G, I was tempted to suggest that you taped your phone to the windscreen aperture and watched videos for an hour or so to see if it was really a comfortable place to be! Well done with the project, it must be a major psychological boost to be at this stage where you can actually sit in it! P.S there are channels with 500k subscribers that don't get the number of views you do, so it must be good content.
I much prefer driving a left hand drive car. Rhd is fine for an Austin 7 but in something this quick it needs to be second nature
@@OliverPickard fair comment
In regards to the harnesses. Those seats are not the most supportive. Surprisingly comfortable given the form but supportive when whipping a car around. No. For this a harness is required. Id even say a 4 point is questionable due to submarining risk. However, it of course needs to be balanced against the fact it is a road car.
How do you keep the metal from rusting... Beautiful work by the way!
cad ftw lol
In your case instead of cardboard assisted design it should be called D.A.D. ....... Dad Assisted Design 🤣😂
The Reliant Scimitar was a good car? Are you sure? I always thought they were just Capri running gear in a less pretty shell. 😏
You keep saying it's a street car, not a track car. 4 point is a hassle. It will make choose your other car more often than not.
Is there any way to make hybrid inertia seat belt/race harness? A 4 point connection but on inertia belts? You've done the spacecock, why not make a racebelt!
Haha I like the way you think but this is something that has to be certified unfortunately
Relatively new to this channel and I’m a bit torn, I love the content but don’t know if the videos are a bit too long. Studies have shown that attention span of people is getting less and less; closer to 20 minutes. BUT, I’m building a custom track mini and what this does show is just how long making brackets etc takes. A day/days just to make seat brackets and people don’t realise that. I think keep the videos as they are but maybe consider some shorter overview videos to keep those with a shorter attention span interested.
I'm not sure I subscribe to the short attention span theory because people are listening to 2hour podcasts and binge watching 10 sold hours of game of thrones but since our videos have gone weekly they are a bit shorter
Most if not all cars have rake. It is vehicle dynamics not magic
If it’s not a daily driver 4 point. If it is inertia reel.
Nato watch strap
It was left to me by my grandfather and he'd never forgive me if I put a NATO strap on it