Just a question. On the P14 setting(max amps)why does ridstar limit you to 15amps(750w peak)? A 750w motor has a 20amp peak(1000w). My 500w motor peaks at 15amps(750w). Is there a current function(cur)on the display? Make sure it's hitting 20amps. I'd check to see if the controller is overriding that setting otherwise you're losing 25% power. Should be set to 20. Unless you're trying to save battery or something, otherwise it's now effectively a 500w motor. P15 low voltage cutoff, the controller is overriding the setting in the display. 41 volts is a bit conservative but it will defiantly save your battery especially if you take voltage sag into account.
Thank you for your question. I was working off the numbers provided directly from Ridstar, and they did slip in the lower P14 setting. I will be changing this. Thank you.
No problem. It could be that Ridstar is being conservative for safety/liability reasons. Or alternatively the motor controller overrides the setting altogether or uses it as the "nominal" amperage. If your bike can show current and it still pumps out 20 amps at least you can probably not bother changing it. Every amp on the motor will pump out around 50 watts of power(@48v) roughly to the motor. So 20 is around 1000w, 22a is 1100w depending on the voltage sag of course. You can tweak it a bit if the controller will allow it but I'd go a couple of amps under what it's rated at just to be safe. Ie a 25amp controller put it at 23 amp max or whatever. However, while you'll get more torque it's going to drain the battery faster. To test maybe put it up one amp at a time and see if you notice a difference.@@Ridstar_Q20
Would & could you please explain to me how I connect the red wire from the s866 display to the battery. And also the blue wire from the s866 display that needs to be connected to the power-switch
Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t the wheel a 4x20? Meaning setting the tire size to 23 is going to give you the wrong speed. Basically to hit 30 mph a 20” tire needs to do 500ish rpm while a 23” tire needs to do 420ish rpm. However a 20” tire doing 420ish rpm will get you 25mph. It appears the “right” settings are only to have the speedometer do math wrong to show the magic number people want to see and not the correct number the bikes actually travelling at.
The wheel/tire is called a 4x20, but the actual diameter of the tire is 23". The computer uses the actual diameter to calculate rpm and speed. There is another video on this channel where I radar verify speeds against the computer.
Hey . My screen just broke and I was looking for a replacement. But in the other video you have. You link a diffent Link. They both look the same but the link on this one was cheaper. Which link should I buy from. This comment or the one you put on your other video
It's alive!!!!!
It feels good to have it alive and running well. Ride safe.
Just a question. On the P14 setting(max amps)why does ridstar limit you to 15amps(750w peak)? A 750w motor has a 20amp peak(1000w). My 500w motor peaks at 15amps(750w). Is there a current function(cur)on the display? Make sure it's hitting 20amps. I'd check to see if the controller is overriding that setting otherwise you're losing 25% power. Should be set to 20. Unless you're trying to save battery or something, otherwise it's now effectively a 500w motor. P15 low voltage cutoff, the controller is overriding the setting in the display. 41 volts is a bit conservative but it will defiantly save your battery especially if you take voltage sag into account.
Thank you for your question. I was working off the numbers provided directly from Ridstar, and they did slip in the lower P14 setting. I will be changing this. Thank you.
No problem. It could be that Ridstar is being conservative for safety/liability reasons. Or alternatively the motor controller overrides the setting altogether or uses it as the "nominal" amperage. If your bike can show current and it still pumps out 20 amps at least you can probably not bother changing it. Every amp on the motor will pump out around 50 watts of power(@48v) roughly to the motor. So 20 is around 1000w, 22a is 1100w depending on the voltage sag of course. You can tweak it a bit if the controller will allow it but I'd go a couple of amps under what it's rated at just to be safe. Ie a 25amp controller put it at 23 amp max or whatever. However, while you'll get more torque it's going to drain the battery faster. To test maybe put it up one amp at a time and see if you notice a difference.@@Ridstar_Q20
@chrissinclair8705 I had thought it seemed a little slower, but didn't know if it was just me. This weekend, I will do some testing. Thanks.
@@Ridstar_Q20 did you ever change that setting? and did you notice a difference?
Would & could you please explain to me how I connect the red wire from the s866 display to the battery. And also the blue wire from the s866 display that needs to be connected to the power-switch
Would this be the same the
Ouxi V8? If you check it out, it’s basically a clone of this.
The key is that the wires are in the same color order and using the same plug.
Ottimo video. Complimenti.
Thank you.
what do you use to shine the frame and the fork?
I'm wondering myself. My fork is getting some surface rust specs.
whats p07 do? ive seen the range for that setting from 0 to 255
awsome
I'm glad it was figured out.
Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t the wheel a 4x20? Meaning setting the tire size to 23 is going to give you the wrong speed.
Basically to hit 30 mph a 20” tire needs to do 500ish rpm while a 23” tire needs to do 420ish rpm. However a 20” tire doing 420ish rpm will get you 25mph.
It appears the “right” settings are only to have the speedometer do math wrong to show the magic number people want to see and not the correct number the bikes actually travelling at.
The wheel/tire is called a 4x20, but the actual diameter of the tire is 23". The computer uses the actual diameter to calculate rpm and speed.
There is another video on this channel where I radar verify speeds against the computer.
Do you have a link for a replacement screen? Mines broken
www.amazon.com/Electric-Display-Waterproof-22-2mm-Handlebars/dp/B09WWQD6S1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2DS1PW09ZXAP2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.H2IiswB-njNkjlaKG_5HP-1Lj1dPnqmfGFfuPa3MojQG65kxjetItHPggyS-CT12unX15uS40mYXrIPAICripwGhJbyVNHRlKqaxtfxX9VWO1j_p56KRYFJnganxxwdq9C29GSkGsAEjRNqbRVoYquOBfBkXV3Jvi40wICZFrUUlPyX-ehCS9WSih3Imo1chCT4Y-GVhbA40EJOvPBSNtg.23zO77780gbt4DaxEBT1hnumPma0YkfwVIJhJGLkOD8&dib_tag=se&keywords=s866+ebike+display&qid=1718690521&sprefix=s866%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
@@Ridstar_Q20 thanks dude
Hey . My screen just broke and I was looking for a replacement. But in the other video you have. You link a diffent Link. They both look the same but the link on this one was cheaper. Which link should I buy from. This comment or the one you put on your other video