Very stiff looking design. I've built CNC routers in the past with high gantry "risers" but I'm designing a router now with high sides like your design. Very nice.
Yes, stil working fine! Highly recommended. The current version is easier to tune. Just make sure you have some shielding around the jumper boards that are on them and to cover the wire connectors properly.
any regrets on fixing the z axis carriages to the x axis and the rails to the spindle? (im designing my cnc the same way you did). some say there is increased chatter on the z
@@JorgeMarioManuelOrtega With the carriages mounted onto the back of the moving Z, you usually have a larger unsupported lever in order to make room for the Z to move. My Z axis can move 250mm this way. The lower it becomes, the less stiff it will be. it depends a bit on what you want to do. Just keep in mind that the construction is at his stiffest when the carriages/rails of the XYZ rails are as close to each other as possible. (and increasing space between the two parallel rails for X and the Z also makes a stiffer combination). A bit hard to explain, but i hope you'll understand.
@@berendlucasvanderweide thanks i wanted a moving gantry too ,and planning to use a 180w servo but because of the shear force when using only 1 of them im kinda leaning on moving bed
@@RYU47376 you mean they produce too much force? Their peak torque is 3x their nominal rated torque. They are incredibly strong. They'll outperform a Nema34 4nm stepper with ease. Don't be fooled by the 0,56Nm torque rating.
Hey Berend, nice to see these JMC 180w working, I have bought them but now sure which controller should I get.... what would be easier to setup....do you have a suggestion? which software are you using Fusion360?
Hi Ricardo; Thanks for your comment; did you get the V5 or the V6 version of the JMC's? (the latter is capable of an auto-tune) . About the controller, i'm using an edingcnc controller (you can download their software to test and run it in simulation) another controller i like is the UCCNC, it's possible to control the VFD over RS232 instead of 0-10v. it seems to be straight-forward to setup. Edingcnc now has a feature to assign 64 zones to control a larger vacuum-bed. About Fusion 360. Yes, I'm using that for my machines. Edingcnc and UCCNC both have a postprocessor for Fusion360.
Hi, could you make a video to show how you have setup the tool probe and how it works in the full workflow with height detection of various tools and workpieces X0,Y0, Z0 ?
Sure! no problem, but do you use edingcnc? Because it depends on the used controller (and the macro), you can store the tool-offset into the tool-table (required if you have an ATC, G43 is used to recall that offset) where other macro's store it temporary at an offset like G92. This macro for edingcnc can be used in 2 different ways; 1 to measure the length of the tool and the other way is to touch-off the workpiece Z-zero point. This toolprobe uses an inductive sensor, spring, hardened plate on top and a lineair bearing. When working with flat sheets (like on the bigger yellow/silver machine in the other vid) or if you draw your vice in Fusion360 and create a workpiece offset from a know point, you don't need to adjust the workpiece coordinates at all. Only tools need to be adjusted. (but this depends on the work you do and what precision you require)
Berend Lucas, thks for your kind reply. I am using Mach3. This should be possible there too I hope. I am sort of fixed to Mach3, because my controller WXHC MK-3 is especially made for Mach3. I have no ATC. My spindle is a 1.5kW with ER16.
Ok, although the basics pretty much stay the same, there is a different approach, since you are using a different controller. What my machine does if it gets an M6 Tx it moves to a defined spot to make the toolchange as easy as possible. After that it measures the tool, (the measurement tool itself ca be bought cheap or expensive, pick your poison). I think this will help you out; ruclips.net/video/26_N4uwRWmQ/видео.html
For the V6; The auto-tune works real-time. As long as you keep the parameters for both the drives the same it's fine. From my best of understanding the machine doesn't require any motion for the auto-tune feature, like clearpaths (they set it once, depending on motion of the system) but the method used by JMC is a real-time correction, according to the set stiffness of the setup. If you need tuning from the Y axis that uses 2 motors, decouple 1 of the motors, remove the bridge. but keep the drive-train in tact. (ballscrew etc) Add half the mass of the total X/Y/Z carriage to the remaining moving part of the Y axis and perform your tuning.
@@berendlucasvanderweide So if I understand this correctly, autotuning works in real time line this: You connect the servo to your controller and also to the tuning software. Then you start testing the servo and modifying the main parameters in the software. The main parameters will then automatically set the other parameters. Based on the performance you want, you then go back and keep modofying parameters until you are happy. I just bought 2x 400W integrated servos from Sorotec. I am not sure if those are the V6 version, but I hope so. Else I think I am in deep trouble!
@@kimenges8703 yes, from my best of understanding it works as you described. I have a 400w v604 here now for the 4th axis. Wanted to hook it up this weekend or next week.
@@berendlucasvanderweide Sounds great and far more practical than having to perform any motion for tuning. I actually hooked mine up yesterday just to check that it was working properly, and it did. But I forgot to check what version they were, I wilk have to check later today. Anyway those servos feels extremely strong and quality looks good. Encoders are not the same resolution as for example some DMM or Delta servo, but for DIY build they are more than enough. Only thing that I think could be improved are the connectors. I will have to make some box with cable glands to protect the connectors.
I have these same servos and they throw an alarm code when any load is applied. I can’t understand how you can cut with them. My hand can stop them and throw a code which requires stopping the machine and resetting.
That's not good. Do you use the V5 or the V6? did you perform any tuning on them? Even when i didn't tune them, they where still capable of moving the machine around pretty fast. Are you using ballscrews, rack/pinion?
Yes, they do. They can be powered with an external DC power-supply (i'm using 48V on mine) and they take ordinary puls/dir signals. So in short, you only need to feed them a DC voltge from 24 to 50V and the normal signals for driving a standard stepper setup.
@@berendlucasvanderweide That is awesome. They are quite cheap too. I will look more into these on my next build :) Unfortunately most videos are in German so far.
@@brukernavnfettsjit Yeah, indeed. Most vids are in German, Just buy one to start with, get comfortable with them and buy more if you like them. Just make sure to ask the seller of they are the V6 versions instead of V5. Sorotec has them in stock (V6), they also have a manual available.
in terms of speed, the lineair motion the nut/machine makes, no, it makes no difference. The 1610 ballscrew needs to rotate at 1500 rpm for 15m/min while the 1605 needs to run at 3000rpm. (hence the 1:2 reduction for the 1610) Longer ballscrews have the tendency to become unstable at higher RPM's. 3000rpm is possible, but it moves more quiet at 1500rpm.
Nice Machine, cuts very smooth :-)
Nice smooth cutting. THose servos are a great idea to integrate into a small CNC.
Mark
How did you tune the servos, do they have a auto tune function?
Looks awesome! Happy 46th?
Meh, too soon Kent! still a few years shy. its a simple house number sign.
Very stiff looking design. I've built CNC routers in the past with high gantry "risers" but I'm designing a router now with high sides like your design. Very nice.
It has been a while but do you happen to have the tuning file for those servos? I want to get them for my bf20L CNC. Thanks a lot!
Are these servo still working good ? No issues?
I want to build a cnc with them so I need your advice please in these servo motors.
Yes, stil working fine! Highly recommended. The current version is easier to tune. Just make sure you have some shielding around the jumper boards that are on them and to cover the wire connectors properly.
any regrets on fixing the z axis carriages to the x axis and the rails to the spindle? (im designing my cnc the same way you did). some say there is increased chatter on the z
No, the opposite is true. This is the stiffest construction for this type of machine.
@@berendlucasvanderweide thanks for your response !
@@JorgeMarioManuelOrtega With the carriages mounted onto the back of the moving Z, you usually have a larger unsupported lever in order to make room for the Z to move. My Z axis can move 250mm this way. The lower it becomes, the less stiff it will be. it depends a bit on what you want to do. Just keep in mind that the construction is at his stiffest when the carriages/rails of the XYZ rails are as close to each other as possible. (and increasing space between the two parallel rails for X and the Z also makes a stiffer combination). A bit hard to explain, but i hope you'll understand.
with such cnc design, can u mill aluminium or copper? and do you use 2 ball screw for the x axis?
Yes, that is possible for sure. I'm using 2 ballscrews for the y axis. For a wider portal that's a must i think.
@@berendlucasvanderweide thanks i wanted a moving gantry too ,and planning to use a 180w servo but because of the shear force when using only 1 of them im kinda leaning on moving bed
@@RYU47376 you mean they produce too much force? Their peak torque is 3x their nominal rated torque. They are incredibly strong. They'll outperform a Nema34 4nm stepper with ease. Don't be fooled by the 0,56Nm torque rating.
@@berendlucasvanderweide im more scared of the frame twisting because of only using 1 servo to turn the entire gantry
@@RYU47376 That's the reason why you should use two of them. I couldn't agree more. One ballscrew is not a good solution.
Hi Berend do you by any chance have a build log of your machine?
Hi Anton! Have you seen the other movie i posted more recently? It kind of shows the details of the machine, not really a build log though.
@@berendlucasvanderweide Thank you, i just watched the latest video which shows a lot of detail, thank you for the hint :)
Hey Berend, nice to see these JMC 180w working, I have bought them but now sure which controller should I get.... what would be easier to setup....do you have a suggestion? which software are you using Fusion360?
Hi Ricardo; Thanks for your comment; did you get the V5 or the V6 version of the JMC's? (the latter is capable of an auto-tune) . About the controller, i'm using an edingcnc controller (you can download their software to test and run it in simulation) another controller i like is the UCCNC, it's possible to control the VFD over RS232 instead of 0-10v. it seems to be straight-forward to setup. Edingcnc now has a feature to assign 64 zones to control a larger vacuum-bed. About Fusion 360. Yes, I'm using that for my machines. Edingcnc and UCCNC both have a postprocessor for Fusion360.
Hi, could you make a video to show how you have setup the tool probe and how it works in the full workflow with height detection of various tools and workpieces X0,Y0, Z0 ?
Sure! no problem, but do you use edingcnc? Because it depends on the used controller (and the macro), you can store the tool-offset into the tool-table (required if you have an ATC, G43 is used to recall that offset) where other macro's store it temporary at an offset like G92. This macro for edingcnc can be used in 2 different ways; 1 to measure the length of the tool and the other way is to touch-off the workpiece Z-zero point.
This toolprobe uses an inductive sensor, spring, hardened plate on top and a lineair bearing.
When working with flat sheets (like on the bigger yellow/silver machine in the other vid) or if you draw your vice in Fusion360 and create a workpiece offset from a know point, you don't need to adjust the workpiece coordinates at all. Only tools need to be adjusted. (but this depends on the work you do and what precision you require)
Berend Lucas, thks for your kind reply. I am using Mach3. This should be possible there too I hope. I am sort of fixed to Mach3, because my controller WXHC MK-3 is especially made for Mach3. I have no ATC. My spindle is a 1.5kW with ER16.
Ok, although the basics pretty much stay the same, there is a different approach, since you are using a different controller. What my machine does if it gets an M6 Tx it moves to a defined spot to make the toolchange as easy as possible. After that it measures the tool, (the measurement tool itself ca be bought cheap or expensive, pick your poison).
I think this will help you out; ruclips.net/video/26_N4uwRWmQ/видео.html
Hello. How did you perform the tuning for both the Y-axis motors? I think this might not be possible with auto tuning, but I am not sure.
For the V6; The auto-tune works real-time. As long as you keep the parameters for both the drives the same it's fine. From my best of understanding the machine doesn't require any motion for the auto-tune feature, like clearpaths (they set it once, depending on motion of the system) but the method used by JMC is a real-time correction, according to the set stiffness of the setup. If you need tuning from the Y axis that uses 2 motors, decouple 1 of the motors, remove the bridge. but keep the drive-train in tact. (ballscrew etc) Add half the mass of the total X/Y/Z carriage to the remaining moving part of the Y axis and perform your tuning.
@@berendlucasvanderweide So if I understand this correctly, autotuning works in real time line this: You connect the servo to your controller and also to the tuning software. Then you start testing the servo and modifying the main parameters in the software. The main parameters will then automatically set the other parameters. Based on the performance you want, you then go back and keep modofying parameters until you are happy.
I just bought 2x 400W integrated servos from Sorotec. I am not sure if those are the V6 version, but I hope so. Else I think I am in deep trouble!
@@kimenges8703 yes, from my best of understanding it works as you described. I have a 400w v604 here now for the 4th axis. Wanted to hook it up this weekend or next week.
@@berendlucasvanderweide Sounds great and far more practical than having to perform any motion for tuning.
I actually hooked mine up yesterday just to check that it was working properly, and it did. But I forgot to check what version they were, I wilk have to check later today. Anyway those servos feels extremely strong and quality looks good. Encoders are not the same resolution as for example some DMM or Delta servo, but for DIY build they are more than enough. Only thing that I think could be improved are the connectors. I will have to make some box with cable glands to protect the connectors.
@@kimenges8703 yes, you should at least protect the jumpers. The version is printed on the label. No need to check in the software.
I have these same servos and they throw an alarm code when any load is applied. I can’t understand how you can cut with them. My hand can stop them and throw a code which requires stopping the machine and resetting.
That's not good. Do you use the V5 or the V6? did you perform any tuning on them? Even when i didn't tune them, they where still capable of moving the machine around pretty fast. Are you using ballscrews, rack/pinion?
This CNC uses steppers or servo motors? Name says servo??
True servo's indeed. No closed loop steppers.
Does these servos have the drives built in?
Yes, they do. They can be powered with an external DC power-supply (i'm using 48V on mine) and they take ordinary puls/dir signals. So in short, you only need to feed them a DC voltge from 24 to 50V and the normal signals for driving a standard stepper setup.
@@berendlucasvanderweide That is awesome. They are quite cheap too. I will look more into these on my next build :) Unfortunately most videos are in German so far.
@@brukernavnfettsjit Yeah, indeed. Most vids are in German, Just buy one to start with, get comfortable with them and buy more if you like them. Just make sure to ask the seller of they are the V6 versions instead of V5. Sorotec has them in stock (V6), they also have a manual available.
No offence, but isn't it same when direct 1605 and 1610 wit 2x reduction?
in terms of speed, the lineair motion the nut/machine makes, no, it makes no difference. The 1610 ballscrew needs to rotate at 1500 rpm for 15m/min while the 1605 needs to run at 3000rpm. (hence the 1:2 reduction for the 1610) Longer ballscrews have the tendency to become unstable at higher RPM's. 3000rpm is possible, but it moves more quiet at 1500rpm.
Well explained, undestand now. Thanks
Plus you get lower inertia when you only have to accelerate them to 1500 rpm
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