Tips on Rebuilding Front End 2001-2010 2500hd 3500hd
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- These are some tips for doing front end work on your Chevy or GMC Truck 2001-2010 chassis. This was my second go-around and most work is as expected, but there's a couple things that made the job more time consuming. So here's a heads up on what to do to prevent / anticipate things that come up.
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#gmc #chevy #duramaxdiesel #2500hd #3500hd #silverado #sierra #trucksoftiktok #lbz #lly #lb7
I have a 94 2500 suburban which is very similar and there are nearly no vídeos on how to do this. (NOBODY has the tone ring.) I just want to mention a great tip that I figured out doing this outside in 30 degree F weather. Google weather is full of sh*t, too. 0% chance of precipitation for days ahead AS IT SNOWED while I did part of this. The damn tone ring makes it impossible to get a good grip on the four bolts that hold the hub on. So you will have to assemble the whole damn thing before you mount it which weighs a ton when you have to stab the lower ball joint and the spindle with precision at the same time which can take a while to get right as you are crouched on the freezing ground. (Tools sticking to the ground and getting covered with snow make things fun, too.)
To make it a million times easier, after a lot of trying, I tied a small rope through the upper ball joint hole on the assembly I was trying to mount, ran the rope over the hood to the other side and looped it through the upper control arm and had my wife hold it. I lifted it up while she took out the slack in the rope. Then I had her very slowly lower it whilst I shoe-horned the damn thing in. This will save your old-assed back so you can break it on something else that fails in the damn house.
Also, if those four bolt heads strip, good luck. Mine did (Well, two stripped. All were seized). I also stripped out a deep impact socket and killed a brand new harbor freight earthquake xt (Yes, I oiled it) within minutes. A mapp gas torch (while sheilding rubber parts) will become your new best friend...and your wife with a rope. At the first sign that the bolts are seized, get the damn torch and hold it on the bolt for at least a minute. (Yes, I used a lot of penetrant.)
Also, again, get those metal wheel alignment jigs (about $100) because some alignment shops wont touch these trucks and just about all of them will say you have a bad part so they cant do it. This will help to save your tires until you can find someone who will align it. I just got those plates in and havent had a chance to use them yet. I still have to do the other side (Sigh.) At least that rotor isnt chewed up.
When you do the brakes on these, if in doubt, replace it. Get really good brake pads. Lube the slide pins and look for videos of the brake line turning itself into a check valve that can cause your brakes to burn up. You really want to avoid replacing the rotors on these. Plan on taking the whole weekend to do this. The newer ones might be a breeze to do. Not the 94 with a tone ring with seized bolts in 30 degree weather. Use 1/2" sockets. 3/8 adapters and sockets twist apart.
I rebuild mines too by cutting out the whole IFS front end and replaced it with a solid front axle 👍🏿
@@David-yy7lb that's proper!
On your sway bar links..
Just put a jack under your lower control arm and jack it up until you can connect your sway bar links.
Very helpful for people new to this like me. I just bought the same truck but i can see the torsion bars are 100% max’d up on the stock control arms. What are the hazards here? What should i do? Thanks
The lower balljoints arent that bad to do yourself, Ive gotten them out with a decent size hammer and soaking the tops in penetrating oil, putting them in without a balljoint press can be tricky but i did it with a floor jack and a piece of tubing the same size as the balljoint, they typically slide right and and the last ones i replaced were original lowers with 250k on them
Wow thats good miles for a balljoint lol. Nice. Ya after the video I ended up doing them, I did the lower control, took out torsion bar
Thank you.
Could you link where you got all these parts from, thanks
Just fyi for those upper control arms. The hardware that cognito gives you is ehhh. I bought those upper control arms and one day i was going down a dirt road and the heard clunking. And somehow those upper control arm bolts that hold in the bolt joint all came loose. So i went back and put metal lock washers and lock nuts. Vs just lock washers
I think you put your outer tie rod upside down. I could be wrong I drive a 2005 tahoe. Wanted to say something just in case. Cotter pin should hold it but you might want to switch it.
My 2005 Yukon mounts from the top too.
This is a 2500 hd
Mine is 2500 lb7 to and mines up top never had it from under the knuckle but I’ve seen ppl do it
Hole is tapered in the spindle only one way it can go, this is correct for these trucks. Lift kits come with a different spindle and mounts with stud facing down to reduce the angle after the lift. Stock height the stud faces up.
What type and where did you buy the tie rod sleeves?
Thanks in advance!
They are kryptonite tie rod sleeves and I believe from thoroughbred diesel!
Thanks for the info!
Hey man any other way to reach out to you besides here? I have a bunch of questions for my truck
For sure, Best is TT or insta
I don’t have either of those, I have a Facebook and messenger
@@danburnell3315 what's your messenger?
@@buildwithandrew Dan Bee
Is there a link for the level kit
Hello, to level the truck, I used stock torsion keys. The other parts mentioned in video: common parts can be purchased from common automotive stores. And specialty parts (like Cognito parts) can be purchased from their website.
Like the content but just heads up guys don't care for the smacking. Work on the masculine way of talking.