Thrustmaster TWCS Potentiometer Cleaning How-to
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- By popular* request: an unscripted and quickly put together how-to on cleaning the surface mount throttle axis potentiometer on the Thrustmaster TWCS.
*one or two redditors on r/HOTAS
I had severe jittering at about 97-99% and 0-6% throttle. This complete fixed my issue. Thank you so much!
I was having the same issue. I used an alcohol prep swab to do the cleaning (isopropyl alcohol and a tiny lint-free cloth) and it did the trick.
omg me too!! we should be firneds
@@smbarbour any issues after using the isopropyl alcohol?
@@caeryllium none so far
@@smbarbour great, thanks so much for responding 7 months later
I had SEVERE jittering and i fixed it with this video thanks to you.
You are a life saver. Was about to purchase a new throttle. Followed these steps and it's as good as new. THANK YOU!
Directed here from a reddit post about how to fix a glitchy throttle. That pot is really small and the tabs are even smaller. So hard for me to see. As an alternate method I tried putting some WD-40 on a toothpick and dabbed it in the gap between the base and center post. I then took a small slotted screwdriver to do left-right half turns several times until the scale in MSFS 2020 Controls showed a smooth transition from one end of the scale to the other (didn't take but 4-5 cycles). I then took a paper towel to remove any excess WD-40 on top of the pot and reassembled. Works just like new again in the sim.
I don’t know if you’ll ever see this but it would be rude not to say thank you! Saved me a chunk of money and a massive gap from flying while I saved up! Really appreciate your video
Glad I could help!
THIS WORKED! :D Tip to everyone that does not have contact cleaner: I used Isopropyl alchohol to clean it.
Was getting ready to trash these and found this video. The TWCS throttle works perfectly again! Jitter gone. Kind of wish I hadn't just blown a bunch of money on a VKB Stecs throttle and T-Rudder pedals to replace my TWCS and TFRP. Well, I guess I can sell the whole T.1600 FCS set now in perfect working order.
Just did this and it completely resolved the jumping issue that the throttle had been exhibiting for me previously. Thanks for the guide!
Thanks, very useful video ! Saved me discarding my TWCS when it developed a very noisy pot. I found that I didn't need to unscrew the linkage arm from the throttle handle; I just pulled up on the end connected to the potentiometer and swung it to one side.
Hey man, just wanna thank you, found this video of yours and worked wonders for me. Just out here to send my appreciation. cheers!
Glad I could help!
Thanks man! Was having hellish issues with mine and ran across this video from a Reddit post. My metal ring in the base of the potentiometer was almost solid black. Took hard scraping with the pick to get it off. Way simpler than I thought it would be! For having only 2 hands when you needed 4, great video! 😂
It did fix my problem, like everyone elses in the comments, BUT i had some problems after this fix. Nothing of your fault, its bad design from thrustmaster. After i did what you said. My TWCS didn't want to be recognized by windows. I took it back apart, tested cables, shorts, missing components on the PCB. Turned out it just didn't want to work. After 45minutes of useless diagnosing, it just started to work again. At least i learned something new. Thanks for the fix, it did fix my issues!
It fixed the jittering. Very nice. Thank you
Legend! This worked for me, thank you so much. TM customer services were useless, they should watch this video themselves to point people in the right direction, as it's clearly a common problem.
Had severe jittering between 30-97% ish. Worked like a charm, smooth acceleration! Thank you for posting this!
Thank you from this, I recently replaced the grease with the nyogel 767a on the slide rails and thought I messed something up. This not only fixed my issue, it's smoother now than when I first got it, thank you so much
You saved my day... my Thrustmaster TWCS had this problem and I managed to fix it, but I didn't use spray, I just wiped it off with a swab.
Thank you my dude! I had a lot of jittering at the top and bottom ends of my throttle. After following the video and some harder scraping on the metal ring, mine had a couple of stains, it is working flawlessly again.
the little metal thing that pops out, make sure you put it back in with the metal side down, its bent a bit so one side it looks bent up, other side it looks bent down, I had to put it in bent down. Also, I applied more pressure and snapped off the single solder joint on the top, had to re-flow it and it's good, thanks for your help.
A year later, you saved me from thinking my throttle was broken, made the small adjustment, and everything worked. Thank you for saving my heart. Lol
@@LukeWarmGamer234 That makes two of us lol, I did exactly the same
Useful. Thanks cleared up my jitter. In the absence of switch cleaner I used plain old WD-40 on the advice of a friend and it was fine.
Life saver! I dealt with months of severe jittering at max/center of the joystick, making it super hard to fly properly nor do any AAR, etc. Feels strange to be able to fly normally again.
Thanks! You are a live saver.
The central screw that hold the arm of the throttle could be unscrewed partially
Thanks!!
just did this and my TWCS stoped jumping in the throttle axis.
Removing the cover its quite hairy.. one of the taps broke just pulling it out gently.. so be carefull (fortunatlly didnt afected reasembly)
also recomend taking a photo before removing the pot to make sure reinstall is correct.. i couldnt renember wich was upside up or down but had taken a pic and could see a small circle wich was on one side only and up
Worked for me! Completely smooth input now. I used Isopropyl Alc. for the cleaning, it looked like there was some grease buildup in the potentiometer. The IPA I used completely removed the grease, so might have 'shortened' the lifespan of the part, but at least it works for now.
DUDE. you saved my throttle from being angrily destroyed with hammers. and somehow the slew hat is now working too despite not touching it!
You likely have a loose connection in there somewhere that was disturbed in the magic way to get it reconnected.
holy shit, this works! You are the best, OP
Still get a few jitters near 25% and 75%, but it registers 100% now at least!
i used normal disinfectant spray because i had nothing else and it worked too :D
Thank you so much ! It totally solved my problem ! By the way I used some glass spray cleaner to clean the potentiometer.
😊 agreed with all the other ppl successfully fixing their tech. Thanks to your video, I managed the fix, 100% successful. Thanks 🙏👍
Thank you!Fixed my jittering at 100% throttle .
great video helped me clean and find a broken contact. bit of aluminumfoil and it works like a charm again!
Fixed my throttle thanks
Thank you so much! It works like before!😄
Thank You! Just have the same problem and your film help a lot!
Opening that plastic tab, super scary. I just stuck alcohol into the hole and it works good as new. We'll see how long it lasts. My T.16000m had a problem with the twist within a week of purchase as well but I use pedals instead.
if you have a warranty you could always replace it
Thank you so much! You are my hero.
i love you. been struggling with mine and this fixed it. good video
Absolute life saver, revived my throttle back to 100% usability. It had severe jitter at blower and idle levels. borderline unusable. Any chance you got any inputs on what can be done with the TDC index stick? mine came with travel in pitch and has a hard time returning to center :(
I managed to desolder and clean the mini-stick once with a Soldapullt and much cursing - it prompted me order a motorized desoldering pump. I would not try it again without that and my hot air rework station.
The part used doesn't match the standard Alps footprint found on typical console controllers either, I haven't been able to find a compatible replacement.
с помощью этого видео, я починил свой Thrustmaster TWCS! Спасибо!
Very nice ! i used Facom contact cleaner and it worked perfectly ! Thank you !
Thanks man, it's very helpfull for me
I somehow put it back together backwards and now my axis is inverted lol. Time to take it apart again
Much Thanks brother, it did help fix the wrong inputs ❤❤
Completely fixed all my jittering, it got so bad
Thanks very much! That worked like a charm!!
You helped me alot thanks!
I live in the middle of nowhere, can i just use normal alcohol to clean it?
Thank you sooo much!!! It worked exceptionel.
Hey mate, just wondering if its safe to undo the latches without a pick, as i dont have one and this kind of stuff is very expensive in my country
I suppose a sowing needle or the point of a knife would also do
@@LouisCYUL Ah, thanks mate, so i can use the pointy end of my scissors? Thanks for replying so quickly.
it kinda fixed it, when i go WAY back, its there but only WAY back, ima just put a deadzone there, still thank you :D
Could be that yours is "too far gone" and needs to be replaced outright, not a problem if you're equipped for SMT soldering. Searching online says that Panasonic's EVW-AE4001B14 is a compatible and much higher quality replacement part, component suppliers like DigiKey, Mouser, or AvNet should have stock.
@@LouisCYUL yeah, its ok now with the deadzone, thanks anyways!
magic man showed up and overnight fixed the problem ＼（〇_ｏ）／
Thank you! I fixed it!
thank you very much, it worked great
thankyou! sooo much better now
Thank you so much.
Lifesaver 🙏
Got only m,yself to blame fro buyin thrustmaster. Leson learned.
Thank you so much works perfect
nvm it works thanks
Glad to hear it works now! So... what was it?
@@LouisCYUL The golden ring was on The wrong side
thank you! thank you so much!
hi..can we found this potentiometer?
Per a few Reddit comments Panasonic part # EVW-AE4001B14 is a higher quality drop-in replacement available from the usual components distributors. I haven't tried this replacement myself (yet) but you need to be proficient in surface mount work to do it.
can i do the same thing for the rudder pedal it just stop turning right for msfs but it still works for xplane 11 very strange
The fact it works in X-Plane but not MSFS is pointing to a configuration or software issue, not a hardware one.
(I bought the throttle standalone so I don't have matching rudder pedals or stick to tell you much about their internals either.)
@@LouisCYUL thank you
Which contact cleaner do you use?
I believe that's the one: crc-canada.ca/automotive/cleaner-degreaser/qd-8482-electronic-cleaner-312-grams.html but really, any plastics-safe "electronics contact cleaner" should do, there are several brands out there. "Deoxit" is another I've heard mentioned a few times but haven't tried myself.
@@LouisCYUL cool, thanks!
@@LouisCYUL Did a quick trip to the shop to buy some, issue seems to be resolved! Thank you very much!
What is that contact cleaner you're using? Is it just WD40?
Not WD40, which isn't plastics safe. Suitable products are going to be sold as "electronic cleaner" or "electronic contact cleaner". Examples include "CRC QD Electronic Cleaner" or "MG Chemicals Electrosolve Contact Cleaner" - those two are "zero residue" formulas, an alternative would be "Deoxit D5" which leaves a thin lubricant film instead.
@@LouisCYUL would isopropyl alcohol work fine since it's what I have for other tech cleaning stuff?
@@Jojooooooo It should help, but contact cleaner will work much better against any corrosion if that's your issue.
I hope you go to heaven. Thanks to you, it's fixed. Thank you very, very, very much. Greetings from Turkey. 😇😇
Such a tiny PCB mounted pot is just deplorable practice, edging into toy quality. It should be a larger, easily replaceable type, of greater durability/longer life.
The carbon film material over time suffers grooves worn into it by the wiper, and eventually will get scraped completely away. There is often utilized a conductive lubricant which reduces this wear. By cleaning it away the remaining life of the pot is shortened.
Replacing these PCB mounted things is a more involved process than for swapping out mechanically mounted types, such as found in the CH throttle. And so more of these units will get needlessly trashed sooner than warranted.
Every single time I've seen potentiometers inside Thrustmaster devices they were bottom-of-the-barrel grade.
Any specific conductive lubricant to recommend that could be used here as a second step after cleaning?
I don't mind miniaturization that much as I can (de)solder this sort of SMD but I'm in the minority there. Perhaps I've been lucky, mine's kept on working since so replacement hasn't been necessary - yet.
fucking love you :*
Going to try using de-oxit. Amp tech’s best friend.
Thank you so much! This worked for me!