I find that submerging it (the sleeve) in boiling oil first makes it go on so much easier, just remember to let it cool first before putting the new seal in place.
you no more boiled any freaking oil than you know what you are talking about ! Do not be telling people stupid crap to do when you dont have an idea what you are talking about ! People have you ever seen a grease fire ? Dont listen to this moron he hasnt done this and is thinking with his ass.
the actual trick is the opposite: freeze the piece being sleeved! Done it many many times. ALSO works well for inserting bushings into other parts. Heat one, cool the other. Simple physics.
NO ! AT 4:03 thats not what that means and people dont do that , you use the whole sleeve what #9 is referring to is if the bottom install lip needs to be removed -and to those that are asking about and over sized seal - no you should use direct replacement
Why not throw the yoke in the freezer and heat the sleeve? It will drop on the shaft with no hammering. I have a small freezer and a toaster oven in the garage just for interferance fit parts.
I know this old Post but just heads up the manufacturer specifically says not to heat sleeve as it is important to have a very tight fit as it is also sealing the shaft from oil leak as well.
Irish Murphy Thanks. I have seen some mention that a oversized seal is needed, but I can't seem to find any available anywhere. Thanks for confirming that stock seal size is ok.
tserevenad I just found this statement on a SKF speedi sleeve info document: "the same size of seal as the original can be used, there is no need to search for other seals so that stock keeping is simplified and more time saved"
Good video. But what if the hat (if you like- you called it an application unit) you are hitting is not long enough and can not get the sleeve over the groove?
I would first check around and see if I had anything like a pipe of the same diameter as the 'hat' and use that as the extension, or check with a machine shop, but take the hat with you. Chances are you will find something kicking around to help you get the sleeve where you want it. I have also had to use 2 once, put one on as far as you can get iit before putting the second one on. Hope you make out alright.
+vqfive I would say that if your getting a new groove, you may have debris in amongst the oil seal, which, as the drive shaft turns your new sleeve will develop a groove. Perhaps, you may want to clean the oil seal out, or replace it.
+vqfive You miss the point, the step caused by the edge of the sleeve is irrelevant. The oil seal doe not operate in this area. The damaged part of the shaft where the oil seal operates is now good, and won't leak.
The sleeve is NOT aluminum, aluminum is a fast wearing material which would be one of the last choices for such an application. They are made of stainless steel. Sorry to be so abrupt, it's just that I hate pot metal, and aluminum fits that word well.
Glen Linscheid Hey no worries on the abruptness. Replies are just that, to the point. I am aware that it is stainless steel, and if I mentioned it was aluminum in the video, sorry about that.
I always fire up a little doobage when I work on cars too. LOL.... Thanks for the good explanation. Had never done this before.
Awesome instructional. Thank you.
WONDERFUL!
BUT WHERE DO YOU GET HOLD OF A RED SLEEVE??
Thanks for the demo. I have to do a harmonic balancer, same principal. Thanks again.
Very informative & thank you..👍have a truck that I can hopefully accomplish to tomorrow
I find that submerging it (the sleeve) in boiling oil first makes it go on so much easier, just remember to let it cool first before putting the new seal in place.
you no more boiled any freaking oil than you know what you are talking about ! Do not be telling people stupid crap to do when you dont have an idea what you are talking about ! People have you ever seen a grease fire ? Dont listen to this moron he hasnt done this and is thinking with his ass.
the actual trick is the opposite: freeze the piece being sleeved! Done it many many times. ALSO works well for inserting bushings into other parts. Heat one, cool the other. Simple physics.
NO ! AT 4:03 thats not what that means and people dont do that , you use the whole sleeve what #9 is referring to is if the bottom install lip needs to be removed -and to those that are asking about and over sized seal - no you should use direct replacement
great presentation1
Why not throw the yoke in the freezer and heat the sleeve? It will drop on the shaft with no hammering. I have a small freezer and a toaster oven in the garage just for interferance fit parts.
I know this old Post but just heads up the manufacturer specifically says not to heat sleeve as it is important to have a very tight fit as it is also sealing the shaft from oil leak as well.
The edge of that sleeve looks pretty sharp.
when using a sleeve like this can the stock seal be used?
tserevenad Yes, we did use the stock seal with this application.
Irish Murphy Thanks. I have seen some mention that a oversized seal is needed, but I can't seem to find any available anywhere. Thanks for confirming that stock seal size is ok.
tserevenad I just found this statement on a SKF speedi sleeve info document: "the same size of seal as the original can be used, there is no need to search for other seals so that stock keeping is simplified and more time saved"
Good video. But what if the hat (if you like- you called it an application unit) you are hitting is not long enough and can not get the sleeve over the groove?
I would first check around and see if I had anything like a pipe of the same diameter as the 'hat' and use that as the extension, or check with a machine shop, but take the hat with you.
Chances are you will find something kicking around to help you get the sleeve where you want it. I have also had to use 2 once, put one on as far as you can get iit before putting the second one on.
Hope you make out alright.
so the sleeve covered over a groove but created another groove in the middle now
+vqfive I would say that if your getting a new groove, you may have debris in amongst the oil seal, which, as the drive shaft turns your new sleeve will develop a groove. Perhaps, you may want to clean the oil seal out, or replace it.
+vqfive You miss the point, the step caused by the edge of the sleeve is irrelevant. The oil seal doe not operate in this area. The damaged part of the shaft where the oil seal operates is now good, and won't leak.
yup. Shame to go thru all that effort and not replace the seal...
Why is it called a Redi-Sleeve? What does Redi stand for? Thanks for this video
You put the sleeve on it and then it's ready.
Thanks for the video. I’m wondering if a new stock seal will still work with new added diameter? What do you reckon?
70boss351 yes it will work. The extra diameter from the Redi sleeve will not make a difference with a brand new seal
VEry nice of you to take the time to clarify. Thanks for such a helpful video and description. I've already done it myself. CHeers!
Never a problem.
Why is it important not to fit a new seal over a damage surface
it will leak
good vid....
The sleeve is NOT aluminum, aluminum is a fast wearing material which would be one of the last choices for such an application. They are made of stainless steel. Sorry to be so abrupt, it's just that I hate pot metal, and aluminum fits that word well.
Glen Linscheid Hey no worries on the abruptness. Replies are just that, to the point. I am aware that it is stainless steel, and if I mentioned it was aluminum in the video, sorry about that.
+Glen Linscheid Pot metal and aluminium are two completely different materials.
a press with that hub or whatever it is would be better.
I agree entirely, at the time I did not have a press however