I'm a widow and a homeowner trying to learn how to do things myself, and today I'm trying to remove old caulk from my bathtub. Your tips on caulking have been a God send!! As we say in Kentucky, "Bless you're little heart!" Thank you Nils!!
45 years ago an old painter saw me having a hard time running caulk while installing shower doors. the first thing he showed me was to cut the tip off square, not at an angle. then hold gun at top at about a 5 - 10 deg acute angle and work down, this pushes the caulk into the seam and by changing the angle you can control the size of the bead. the rest is a matter of practicing movement and squeeze pressure. I have used this method every since and teach it to all who have worked for me. with practise there is really no need to tool except to make sure you get a good bond on both surfaces. As for wetting your finger, works great for most paintable caulks , but I keep dry for silicones.
Jerry, Right. I was taught the same technique by a fellow I worked with as well. He also told me that if you are using thermoplastic caulking, not to run your finger along the bead after you are done a bead as the oil on your finger will react with the caulking. This was for exterior work, interior work you could use your finger.
i assume you're refering to pu caulk. you just need to wait only a minute for the caulk start reaction at the surface, wear gloves and dip in the soapwater. pu caulk and silicone has to be applied to fully dry contact areas whereas acrylic is quiet forgiving. i personally always use exterior polyurethane caulk also interior wood trims and never look back for any joint movement cracks, settling etc. it has a lifetime guarantted operation compared to regular acrylic caulks without any cost difference at all, just needs more practice due to it's stickyness, waiting a minute after beading is the pro tip ;)
Use a bucket of water and a tile grouting sponge to wet and wipe off your finger. Hold the damp sponge in one hand while you run a bead, then wet your finger on the sponge and smooth out the caulk. Wipe excess caulk off on the sponge; when sponge gets too much caulk on it, rinse it in the bucket of water.
Always offset your thumb when cutting anything. I have personal experience 34 years ago cutting a garden hose like that. Sliced my thumb to the bone and to this day I still have some sensitivity in that area due to nerve damage.
Awesome tip about adding a a little dish soap to the warm water...caulked a tub and surround today and it was a huge improvement!!! Thanks for the heads up!
I do around 4 houses a week with silicone. I use an wooden icecream stick. I use a detergent in a spray bottle. Hold the stick depending on the angle or cut of the tile. Spray the bead, use the stick and run along it, prefect bead. Use finger to gently run along the bead of silicone to finish it off. You are not trying to remove the silicone with your finger, just smoothing it so be gentle.
This is absolutely a bad idea. Every major manufacturer of sealant says to dry tool in their tech manuals.I have install well over 100 miles of sealant and have had to replace miles of sealant that failed using the soapy water method. This is what the Dow tech manual for silicone sealants says on page 75 “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water, soap or alcohols. These materials may interfere with sealant cure and adhesion and create aesthetic issues.” It will fail prematurely.
I appreciate the video. Thank you! Sorry for all the annoying people complaining about the way you used the box cutter. Such negative human beings in the world. You clearly know what you are doing and had complete control of the box cutter.
Not sure if this is a proper way to do it but I always push my caulk tube while caulking. This forces caulk down into the gap and cleans it as you go. It was taught to me by some old timer when I first got into the trade. I’ve done it ever since and it works like a charm.
I love how you did this! It's been some decades since I used any of my handy woman tools...lol... so I have quite a bit of the knowledge I just don't trust myself. You explain that very well and I do appreciate you. Adding the soap in water for silicone tip! THAT I know I never heard. Thank you so much, and keep it up!
A good video! A tip I picked up somewhere is to use a straw to tool the caulk. Cut the tip at a slight angle and slide the tip along the joint using light pressure. The excess caulk goes into the straw. If you have a larger joint use a larger diameter straw. Also, if you are caulking a tub that flexes as you get in and out of it you should fill the tub with cold water before you caulk so the caulk doesn’t pull away from the tub due to it flexing.
Dude, this is by fast the best video I have watched on the topic. The best on youtube! I have watched them all and your tips worked the best. Keep up the great work!
I'm so happy I watched your video! I'm helping my son remodel my home. When he's not here I like to do jobs to help him. Well, now I can start caulking the trim...Thank you!
Your video was very informative. I am a first timer of caulking. Need to caulk around my new bathtub fixture, which is a circle, not as easy as a straight line. Again, thanks
I loved this video. I have found videos so many times where the commentator talks slowly and doesn't get to the point until I have ended feeling like my time was wasted. Very good, well presented and informative
Thanks. I have never cooked before but I am going to tackle my first DIY job. I have a tile surround my fireplace and I want to caulk some seams. I’m not quite sure what type of caulk will be heat resistant but I’ll look that up. I have also never heard of a dripless gun so that will help me before I buy one
Thanks for a great vid! Its an easy to use approach, but need to specify that will NOT WORK for humid areas (like corners of your bathroom). For humid areas you need to make very neat trims - so that moisture will not get under silicone, and catch fungus later on. To do so: (1) make beed 2 mm wider than the crack you are covering, (2) spray soapy water on the beed, (3) use special silicone tool to shape that beed (the tool will also remove excess silicone from surrounding tile). It is kinda tricky for the first time to find the right angle and pressure, so practice before doing the actual job. Also doing neat inside corners is kinda tricky - google it specifically (with proper technique silicone corners will look exactly the same as concrete ones).
Great video, and excellent advice! What about site preparation? I’m caulking an old house with existing, aged caulking. What’s the best way to remove the old stuff before applying a fresh coat?
Lynlee Anne Finger is actually one of the worst thing to use on sanitary area silicon. It leaves bacteria in the surface which will result in mould growth. It often even says not to on the packaging.
Erik Larson Not all but many do. And all those jobs will get discoloured & mouldy faster than if they didn't. Just because a pro does it doesn't mean it's good to do. Many pros don't give a damn if your silicon starts moulding up prematurely because they're not around when it does. And as a customer you just think it's normal for the silicon or caulk to mould up and have no way of making the connection.
@@DiscoFang Why does everyone want to do things like a pro? After 31 years in the building trades let me tell everyone a secret. The pros are interested in getting it done fast. Time is money. Their is almost always a better way to do things than the way the pros do it. Quick tip... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE MANUFACTURER.
Carry a pile of napkins, and wipe off excess on those. Cheap, and rough enough to clean your finger nicely. Carry a Walmart bag to drop dirty napkins in. I put a rag into the bottom of a sour cream tub and put water in it which gives you a source of water to wet your finger with, and the rag keeps it from spilling if you're moving around fast. +1 point for painters tape, against painted walls this is the only way it will look nice.
very informative video. I have a lot of caulking to do. My walls are slightly coming away from the molding that is attached to the ceiling. I am not a pro... I like the caulking gun you recommended. Thank you!
Good info in this vid BUT I would advise against using a razor blade/sharp object, to cut TOWARDS your fingers or hand. VERY dangerous...especially for beginners.
Great video! Never knew what the little hole in the handle was for. I thought that it was to hang it to a wall that happened to have a nail sticking out of it. Also, I could never find a nail the right size to puncture a tube. Wow, they hide one right on the caulker! I never noticed one there before. Yes, this was a truly fantastically informative video, so much better than the other guy who made us watch him eat a popsicle so that he could push the caulking in place with his slobbered stick.
someone taught me to put my finger on the tip of the caulk tube so as you apply you're smoothing at the same time.. I'm still practicing this a steady pace and how big you cut the hole is key. I've only tried this with painters caulk.
Great vid bud! Clear, detailed & well spoken directions, perfect audio and video. I have subscribed and will be watching other vids. I have only one suggestion and that is don’t cut material against your fingers.
I use duck tape to seal the end to prevent the tube from drying out so quickly. They make a container which you could purchase to put the whole tube in to seal both the back and the tip but I have not had a need for it yet.
Is the reason for laying down a bead, for example, on a door trim, merely for esthetics? If there are no gaps, and it is an inside door, is it customary to lay down the bead in all cases? Finally, is a bead actually necessary in all cases?
Thanks for this, I've never had to apply caulk before, but it's time. The trim around our bathtub and kitchen sink is falling apart. So to be clear, silicone would be best for that sort of job, where there's a lot of moisture?
Thank you for your informative video. After removing the old caulk, do i need to use mineral spirits ( or something else ) to wipe down the area to be caulked ( exterior windows ).?
Using easy-release tape works exceptionally well for silicone around sinks. Your big mistake was placing the tape so far from the joint that you had a huge and unsightly "fillet" of unnecessary silicone seal. You should have placed the tape on the sink and on the counter with only a tiny gap between the two strips of tape directly over the gap to be filled (1/32" to 1/16" is plenty wide). The silicone flows through the small gap in the tape and fills the sink-countertop interface thoroughly, then wipe all excess caulk from the tape, remove the tape, and thoroughly wipe any last residue of silicone with dry paper towels. When done correctly, the joint is essentially invisible.
@@_thechosen because sealant can only move a fraction of its width. So a tiny joint will not stretch enough to compensate for the movement of the two different surfaces. This is very important in wet locations. The sealants primary function is to stop water infiltration.The bond will fail and you probably won’t know it failed until damage is done. If you want a tiny bead,the correct procedure is to remove the sink. Put a fairly thick bead of sealant around the opening. Then set the sink down n the wet sealant.After the sealant has set up tighten the sink down. And trim off any showing sealant. That way you are using the silicone as a gasket, creating the seal by compression and not relying n it to perform like a sealant bead. So a small gap is not necessarily a bad thing. You just have to seal them differently. You don’t really have to “ remove” the sink you can just lift it enough to shoot a bead under it but you have to be sure to get a continuous bead around the sink with sufficient sealant to “ squeeze out” a little bit everywhere. A 1/32” caulk joint will only tolerate about .00781 of an inch movement. ( slightly more than a thick human hair.)Assuming it is perfectly bonded. And it won’t be because there is not enough bonding surface.All counter tops move, and all sinks move. It is a lot of work but if done right you will likely never have to do it again. If you caulk a small gap like this as a caulk joint you will be replacing it quite often. Technically silicone should not be installed less than 1/4” wide ,3/16 will be fine ,1/8 probably not. And yes silicone is the only sealant you should use in a wet area inside your house. Unless it needs to be painted. Don’t use products like Lexcel. We refer to these as “ builders grade”. Not quality sealants.
When do I caulk? The trim is on the wall but im going to repaint the wall. Do I caulk first then paint the wall or do I paint the wall first then caulk the trim?
If anyone is looking at the comments currently instead of using your finger especially if your doing it alot use a wet ringedout thin shirt. Saves your fingers less mess and possible splinters and wear on your fingers
I'm shocked you pulled the caulking instead of pushing it. Plus no mention of having to poke a hole in the inner tube throat liner once you've cut the tip. Great tip about the sharpie.
Thank you Nils. You have the first name as one of my favorite smooth jazz guitarists. He pronounces his name, NEALS, but spells it like yours. A very nice video. Have a great day. PCH, (Pacific Highway), was Nils debut to smooth jazz. You might want to check it out on youtube. Steve
Hey Arvind, you can form a little ball of silicone at the tip and let it dry that way. When you're ready to use it, just pull the glob free and it should pull out the dried up part and be ready to use again. Another method is to use a cap. They sell them in packs of 2 or 3 at the hardware store and they're meant for sealing the tubes off for future use. I've tried both methods and each works well. Good luck!
What type caulk would I select for brick/ vinyl trim exterior application. Scrape all the old existing caulk out prior to applying the new product? Thanks for a very informative video, nice work.
If you use silicone caulking, do you still recommend smoothing with your finger?? I'm worried about using something that needs Mineral spririts to clean my finger with. Thanks for the great video! I'm planning to try to do my home windows.
Hi, great video. Do you have any tips on how to make a smooth caulking finish when the baseboards are up against walls that have the orange peel texture? I find that the texture makes for a difficult finish. Thanks.
John Franko Good question. I'd recommend using the baseboard as your guide. As long as you keep your finger wet, and maybe use soapy water, it should glide along just fine. Good luck!
When using your finger, how do you avoid the caulk building up on your finger as you go, and thus the caulk line widens as you slide down the line? That seems to be my issue, and it doesn't feel like I'm using too much caulk. Thoughts?
Daniel Feldman It’s all about that soapy water. It acts as a lubricant so that the caulk doesn’t stick to your finger. Some of it will accumulate and that’s ok because you want to remove the excess. I know a lot of people use sponges for this as well but, unless it’s a big area, fingers work great.
what a sensual caulk method! use your finger on the caulk and not a rubber tool - and always get your finger wet before rubbing that caulk, get it real smoothlike explain why to use caulk on trim anyways; just for looks or for some hidden functionality?
I'm a widow and a homeowner trying to learn how to do things myself, and today I'm trying to remove old caulk from my bathtub. Your tips on caulking have been a God send!! As we say in Kentucky, "Bless you're little heart!" Thank you Nils!!
So glad it was helpful, Sandi! I wish you all the best :)
45 years ago an old painter saw me having a hard time running caulk while installing shower doors. the first thing he showed me was to cut the tip off square, not at an angle. then hold gun at top at about a 5 - 10 deg acute angle and work down, this pushes the caulk into the seam and by changing the angle you can control the size of the bead. the rest is a matter of practicing movement and squeeze pressure. I have used this method every since and teach it to all who have worked for me. with practise there is really no need to tool except to make sure you get a good bond on both surfaces. As for wetting your finger, works great for most paintable caulks , but I keep dry for silicones.
Jerry, Right. I was taught the same technique by a fellow I worked with as well. He also told me that if you are using thermoplastic caulking, not to run your finger along the bead after you are done a bead as the oil on your finger will react with the caulking. This was for exterior work, interior work you could use your finger.
i assume you're refering to pu caulk. you just need to wait only a minute for the caulk start reaction at the surface, wear gloves and dip in the soapwater. pu caulk and silicone has to be applied to fully dry contact areas whereas acrylic is quiet forgiving. i personally always use exterior polyurethane caulk also interior wood trims and never look back for any joint movement cracks, settling etc. it has a lifetime guarantted operation compared to regular acrylic caulks without any cost difference at all, just needs more practice due to it's stickyness, waiting a minute after beading is the pro tip ;)
Use a bucket of water and a tile grouting sponge to wet and wipe off your finger. Hold the damp sponge in one hand while you run a bead, then wet your finger on the sponge and smooth out the caulk. Wipe excess caulk off on the sponge; when sponge gets too much caulk on it, rinse it in the bucket of water.
Thanks for the tips, Dad! --- You're like the father I never had. (no sarcasm...it's true)
This. Also cuting that tip at an angle helps tremendously!
The painters tape made this video so worth it. I had been struggling with caulking a window, where perfection is necessary
Always offset your thumb when cutting anything. I have personal experience 34 years ago cutting a garden hose like that. Sliced my thumb to the bone and to this day I still have some sensitivity in that area due to nerve damage.
Short and sweet, also the best explanation of dripless calk Guns on RUclips.
straight to the point and extremely helpful with the examples. exactly what I needed.
Awesome tip about adding a a little dish soap to the warm water...caulked a tub and surround today and it was a huge improvement!!! Thanks for the heads up!
I do around 4 houses a week with silicone. I use an wooden icecream stick. I use a detergent in a spray bottle. Hold the stick depending on the angle or cut of the tile. Spray the bead, use the stick and run along it, prefect bead. Use finger to gently run along the bead of silicone to finish it off. You are not trying to remove the silicone with your finger, just smoothing it so be gentle.
This is absolutely a bad idea. Every major manufacturer of sealant says to dry tool in their tech manuals.I have install well over 100 miles of sealant and have had to replace miles of sealant that failed using the soapy water method. This is what the Dow tech manual for silicone sealants says on page 75
“NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water, soap or alcohols. These materials may interfere with sealant cure and adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
It will fail prematurely.
I appreciate the video. Thank you! Sorry for all the annoying people complaining about the way you used the box cutter. Such negative human beings in the world. You clearly know what you are doing and had complete control of the box cutter.
Not sure if this is a proper way to do it but I always push my caulk tube while caulking. This forces caulk down into the gap and cleans it as you go. It was taught to me by some old timer when I first got into the trade. I’ve done it ever since and it works like a charm.
I love how you did this! It's been some decades since I used any of my handy woman tools...lol... so I have quite a bit of the knowledge I just don't trust myself. You explain that very well and I do appreciate you. Adding the soap in water for silicone tip! THAT I know I never heard. Thank you so much, and keep it up!
Just bought a house so I’ll be visiting your videos a lot. Thanks for showing how caulking can be simple and efficient!
A good video! A tip I picked up somewhere is to use a straw to tool the caulk. Cut the tip at a slight angle and slide the tip along the joint using light pressure. The excess caulk goes into the straw. If you have a larger joint use a larger diameter straw.
Also, if you are caulking a tub that flexes as you get in and out of it you should fill the tub with cold water before you caulk so the caulk doesn’t pull away from the tub due to it flexing.
Dude, this is by fast the best video I have watched on the topic. The best on youtube! I have watched them all and your tips worked the best. Keep up the great work!
I'm so happy I watched your video! I'm helping my son remodel my home. When he's not here I like to do jobs to help him. Well, now I can start caulking the trim...Thank you!
This is a great video. I was glad to see that I had purchased the right caulk gun. The tip about the sharpie was very helpful.
Your video was very informative. I am a first timer of caulking. Need to caulk around my new bathtub fixture, which is a circle, not as easy as a straight line. Again, thanks
You can also use thin nitrile coated gloves. Worked as you finger without touching silicone by your hands.
Nice demonstration of how to caulk and how to prepare and useful tips like warm water etc. Going to use these tips on my babies new nursery :D
I tried to caulk my pantry and it was my first time, went well. Nice bead of white all purpose. Now I have to paint. Thanks for the advice.
I loved this video. I have found videos so many times where the commentator talks slowly and doesn't get to the point until I have ended feeling like my time was wasted. Very good, well presented and informative
I set playback speed to 1.75 for most....
Learned lots about how to make a much dreaded task easier. Thank you!
cringed when you cut that tip like that
Seriously, was he gonna fill a pool with it!
This is what I came to say. Yikes.
He's just good with a utility knife -- respect.
How not to cut with any blade!
SAME!
Thanks. I have never cooked before but I am going to tackle my first DIY job. I have a tile surround my fireplace and I want to caulk some seams. I’m not quite sure what type of caulk will be heat resistant but I’ll look that up. I have also never heard of a dripless gun so that will help me before I buy one
You've never cooked before? You should try it 🤪
Great tips! I am a beginner and I understood everything you described! Thanks!
You took on a tough one with lots of opinions and that takes guts and skill.
I have seen many filling gabs videos but this is amazing.
Thanks for a great vid! Its an easy to use approach, but need to specify that will NOT WORK for humid areas (like corners of your bathroom).
For humid areas you need to make very neat trims - so that moisture will not get under silicone, and catch fungus later on. To do so: (1) make beed 2 mm wider than the crack you are covering, (2) spray soapy water on the beed, (3) use special silicone tool to shape that beed (the tool will also remove excess silicone from surrounding tile). It is kinda tricky for the first time to find the right angle and pressure, so practice before doing the actual job. Also doing neat inside corners is kinda tricky - google it specifically (with proper technique silicone corners will look exactly the same as concrete ones).
Great video, and excellent advice! What about site preparation? I’m caulking an old house with existing, aged caulking. What’s the best way to remove the old stuff before applying a fresh coat?
I like this guy! Picked up great tips re "finger" sealing and soapy water and different sealant guns. Thank you.
Lynlee Anne Finger is actually one of the worst thing to use on sanitary area silicon. It leaves bacteria in the surface which will result in mould growth. It often even says not to on the packaging.
Literally EVERY SINGLE PROFESSIONAL uses their finger to smooth it out. Every single one.
Erik Larson Not all but many do. And all those jobs will get discoloured & mouldy faster than if they didn't. Just because a pro does it doesn't mean it's good to do. Many pros don't give a damn if your silicon starts moulding up prematurely because they're not around when it does. And as a customer you just think it's normal for the silicon or caulk to mould up and have no way of making the connection.
@@DiscoFang Why does everyone want to do things like a pro? After 31 years in the building trades let me tell everyone a secret. The pros are interested in getting it done fast. Time is money. Their is almost always a better way to do things than the way the pros do it. Quick tip... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE MANUFACTURER.
From captain sparkels
I thought i was the only one....
I don't know who this CaptainSparklez guy is. I came here from Jordan Reacts
@@blairdrummond5043 I'm hoping you know he's the same person...
@@JustusScheetz It was pretty obvious that I was joking, but I guess some people just need it spelled out for them...
@@blairdrummond5043 I'm just saying some people would actually not know
Carry a pile of napkins, and wipe off excess on those. Cheap, and rough enough to clean your finger nicely. Carry a Walmart bag to drop dirty napkins in. I put a rag into the bottom of a sour cream tub and put water in it which gives you a source of water to wet your finger with, and the rag keeps it from spilling if you're moving around fast. +1 point for painters tape, against painted walls this is the only way it will look nice.
Finally! A proper tutorial on how to sling this caulk.
Great idea with the magic marker!!!!!!!
Great video! Have watched others and they didn’t mention some of your great tips! Thanks!
very informative video. I have a lot of caulking to do. My walls are slightly coming away from the molding that is attached to the ceiling. I am not a pro... I like the caulking gun you recommended. Thank you!
is the molding coming away from the walls or are the walls moving away from the molding lol
Very nice and easy to understand video! ☺️ thank you
Hah!
Never caulked before and it went very well with your tips.
Especially liked the warm, soapy water idea.
Big Stretch is the best caulk! Love it. Doesn't turn yellow or crack....
Good info in this vid BUT I would advise against using a razor blade/sharp object, to cut TOWARDS your fingers or hand. VERY dangerous...especially for beginners.
EaglesFan4NRA Good point. My finger pads are pretty calloused from guitar so I didn't even think about it but you're absolutely right.
EaglesFan4NRA I was thinking the same thing, I winced while watching that part!
DIY, I hear ya...its a good vid and I'm a new subscriber for sure.
EaglesFan4NRA I was thinking the same thing. I use my diagonal cuters, much safer.
DoctorBlankenstein what are diagonal cutters?
Great video! Never knew what the little hole in the handle was for. I thought that it was to hang it to a wall that happened to have a nail sticking out of it. Also, I could never find a nail the right size to puncture a tube. Wow, they hide one right on the caulker! I never noticed one there before. Yes, this was a truly fantastically informative video, so much better than the other guy who made us watch him eat a popsicle so that he could push the caulking in place with his slobbered stick.
Best I've seen yet. Thanks for posting!
Cut half a sponge ..and wet it..use that to smooth it out..its great..using your finger for a long time can cause blisters..
someone taught me to put my finger on the tip of the caulk tube so as you apply you're smoothing at the same time.. I'm still practicing this a steady pace and how big you cut the hole is key. I've only tried this with painters caulk.
This is helpful - I’m going to try it out this week
Great vid bud! Clear, detailed & well spoken directions, perfect audio and video. I have subscribed and will be watching other vids. I have only one suggestion and that is don’t cut material against your fingers.
Roddy Martin did
It was his thumb
Man, that was very helpful!!! Should've watched it before I strated working.
Thank you very much for the free and helpful information God bless you!
I use duck tape to seal the end to prevent the tube from drying out so quickly. They make a container which you could purchase to put the whole tube in to seal both the back and the tip but I have not had a need for it yet.
After the tube of caulk is empty, how do you get the tube out of the gun?
I use the inside of my needle nose pliers to cut tip and it makes a very even cut.
Is the reason for laying down a bead, for example, on a door trim, merely for esthetics? If there are no gaps, and it is an inside door, is it customary to lay down the bead in all cases? Finally, is a bead actually necessary in all cases?
Thanks for this, I've never had to apply caulk before, but it's time. The trim around our bathtub and kitchen sink is falling apart. So to be clear, silicone would be best for that sort of job, where there's a lot of moisture?
Hi Nils- how long do we allow the caulk to dry before removing the painter's tape?
Good video, but if you cut your finger off trying to trim the spout, then how will you use the bloody stump to smooth the caulk?
Thank you for your informative video. After removing the old caulk, do i need to use mineral spirits ( or something else ) to wipe down the area to be caulked ( exterior windows ).?
That will definitely help, yes. Some denatured alcohol or mineral spirits will help clean it right up.
wow that big stretch sealant is really flexible
Awesome that's what I did as well but confirmation makes it better
Thanks for the information. Now I can do this on my own. Good to know!
Wow, this DIY'er appreciates this video ad all the tips!
nice tips, good pace. thanks for sharing
Can I use non-ammonia glass cleaner instead of a warm water when smoothing the caulking?
Using easy-release tape works exceptionally well for silicone around sinks. Your big mistake was placing the tape so far from the joint that you had a huge and unsightly "fillet" of unnecessary silicone seal. You should have placed the tape on the sink and on the counter with only a tiny gap between the two strips of tape directly over the gap to be filled (1/32" to 1/16" is plenty wide). The silicone flows through the small gap in the tape and fills the sink-countertop interface thoroughly, then wipe all excess caulk from the tape, remove the tape, and thoroughly wipe any last residue of silicone with dry paper towels. When done correctly, the joint is essentially invisible.
And will fail in a couple of years. When you see a tiny joint it is because the sink was set in sealant.
@@genecarden780 Why leaving a tiny gap is bad?
@@_thechosen because sealant can only move a fraction of its width. So a tiny joint will not stretch enough to compensate for the movement of the two different surfaces. This is very important in wet locations. The sealants primary function is to stop water infiltration.The bond will fail and you probably won’t know it failed until damage is done. If you want a tiny bead,the correct procedure is to remove the sink. Put a fairly thick bead of sealant around the opening. Then set the sink down n the wet sealant.After the sealant has set up tighten the sink down. And trim off any showing sealant. That way you are using the silicone as a gasket, creating the seal by compression and not relying n it to perform like a sealant bead. So a small gap is not necessarily a bad thing. You just have to seal them differently.
You don’t really have to “ remove” the sink you can just lift it enough to shoot a bead under it but you have to be sure to get a continuous bead around the sink with sufficient sealant to “ squeeze out” a little bit everywhere.
A 1/32” caulk joint will only tolerate about .00781 of an inch movement. ( slightly more than a thick human hair.)Assuming it is perfectly bonded. And it won’t be because there is not enough bonding surface.All counter tops move, and all sinks move.
It is a lot of work but if done right you will likely never have to do it again.
If you caulk a small gap like this as a caulk joint you will be replacing it quite often.
Technically silicone should not be installed less than 1/4” wide ,3/16 will be fine ,1/8 probably not. And yes silicone is the only sealant you should use in a wet area inside your house. Unless it needs to be painted. Don’t use products like Lexcel. We refer to these as “ builders grade”. Not quality sealants.
When do I caulk? The trim is on the wall but im going to repaint the wall. Do I caulk first then paint the wall or do I paint the wall first then caulk the trim?
Jacob Sakowski I’ve seen it done both ways by professionals. Personally we always caulk first but if you’re clean about it, you can paint first too.
If anyone is looking at the comments currently instead of using your finger especially if your doing it alot use a wet ringedout thin shirt. Saves your fingers less mess and possible splinters and wear on your fingers
Absolutely excellent video covered every detai.l I feel very comfortable attempting to caulk my bathroom.
I'm shocked you pulled the caulking instead of pushing it. Plus no mention of having to poke a hole in the inner tube throat liner once you've cut the tip. Great tip about the sharpie.
Why would you have to poke a hole in it?
Just what i needed, to the point! Thank you!
Good job on the video. Easy to understand.
Woohoo, I did it! Thank you so much for this helpful video. Intimidating at first, but then I got the hang of it and it looks pretty good.
Soapy water on finger did the trick. Thank you!
What brand would you recommend for caulking around a shed - I’m about to put one together?
Any vids in how to remove old caulk?
One guy used a dremel
Lovely, well-scripted video, thank you for the help.
should old cracking calk be removed before new calk on. i have big cracks on the old calking
Always, yes. It's important to remove all old caulking before applying anything new.
Thank you. Short and sweet, and easy to follow. :)
Is the caulk paintable? I see you caulked from trim to wall, but what about trim to trim and then want to paint it?
Yes, you can paint it. It works just fine.
you make this look so easy! T his is my first diy with molding, do I paint after the caulking? or paint and then caulk? thanks!
Thank you Nils. You have the first name as one of my favorite smooth jazz guitarists. He pronounces his name, NEALS, but spells it like yours. A very nice video. Have a great day. PCH, (Pacific Highway), was Nils debut to smooth jazz. You might want to check it out on youtube. Steve
Excellent Job
I laid some silicone around my tub and got don't on the tile what can I use to clean up its already dry
lets say i have some silicon left over in tub; so i can use after sometimes, how can i keep it fresh? thank you.
Hey Arvind, you can form a little ball of silicone at the tip and let it dry that way. When you're ready to use it, just pull the glob free and it should pull out the dried up part and be ready to use again. Another method is to use a cap. They sell them in packs of 2 or 3 at the hardware store and they're meant for sealing the tubes off for future use. I've tried both methods and each works well. Good luck!
I have watched 2 videos of your's so far and I find is very interesting,and useful .thank you,
Ok thanks
Very nice simple informative video
I thought this would just be a refresher. But he actually has some great tips.
Thanks Nils. Now we're caulking!
I use the small squeezable tubes of caulk.instead of using the big clunky gun.much better control.
Nice tips. Thank you
Thanks! Very helpful. Also, the video is professionally done.
Yes I did learn something today. New subscriber. Thanks for these tips.
who the F downs this vid - super informative, logically organized and well paced
What type caulk would I select for brick/ vinyl trim exterior application. Scrape all the old existing caulk out prior to applying the new product?
Thanks for a very informative video, nice work.
I was told OSI
I have seen popsicle sticks to create a nice rounded profile and finish
If you use silicone caulking, do you still recommend smoothing with your finger?? I'm worried about using something that needs Mineral spririts to clean my finger with. Thanks for the great video! I'm planning to try to do my home windows.
Hi, great video. Do you have any tips on how to make a smooth caulking finish when the baseboards are up against walls that have the orange peel texture? I find that the texture makes for a difficult finish. Thanks.
John Franko Good question. I'd recommend using the baseboard as your guide. As long as you keep your finger wet, and maybe use soapy water, it should glide along just fine. Good luck!
When using your finger, how do you avoid the caulk building up on your finger as you go, and thus the caulk line widens as you slide down the line? That seems to be my issue, and it doesn't feel like I'm using too much caulk. Thoughts?
Daniel Feldman It’s all about that soapy water. It acts as a lubricant so that the caulk doesn’t stick to your finger. Some of it will accumulate and that’s ok because you want to remove the excess. I know a lot of people use sponges for this as well but, unless it’s a big area, fingers work great.
Use masking tape to prevent the caulking tube from turning on you.
I learned a lot! Very helpful for a DYI (cuz I have to...) female!
I have a handyman business and work on very old homes. My business name is GOOD WITH CAULK!
what a sensual caulk method! use your finger on the caulk and not a rubber tool - and always get your finger wet before rubbing that caulk, get it real smoothlike
explain why to use caulk on trim anyways; just for looks or for some hidden functionality?